HE 11 – Clothing Selection, Purchase and Care

Factors to consider in Choosing a garment

When choosing a fabric to use on a cloth, comfort comes first. Everyone desires to dress up in
something comfortable and appealing to the eye. Clothes come in different designs, textures, and shapes.
Everyone wants to achieve value for their money; therefore, making the right choice is necessary.
Below are some of the factors to consider when choosing a fabric.
1. Durability of Fabric
2. How Easy It Is to Clean a Fabric - Spills and stains can happen anytime, and different fabrics
have different clean ability rates.
3. Texture - Silk, including silk kimono, have a soft texture, and cotton is soft too.
4. Its Fading Scale - buying something that will lose its color after a short period of use.
5. Color - Bright colors are usually for celebrations, while dark colors signify a somber mood.
6. Type Of Fabric - Different types of fabrics are made from natural and synthetic fibers. Other
fabrics are made by mixing both artificial and natural fibers.
7. Fabric Quality - Touching and feeling a fabric is what will be able to tell you what quality the
material is.

Tips on picking out the right garment

1. Dressing for Your Figure - Decide which features you would like to emphasize. You can use
outfits to make aspects of your appearance look bigger, smaller, more obvious, or less noticeable.
a) Waist styles – Low-waisted paints can make your body look curvier with a more well-
defined waist. Empire waists can help to emphasize your bust.
b) Structured tailoring – can be used to emphasize and give shape to any part of your
body.
c) Types of hemlines – A-line skirts are great for adding curves and making your bottom
half look wider. Straight skirts are also good for doing the latter. Tapered skirts have the
opposite effect; wear these when trying to de-emphasize your lower body.
d) Fit – In general, baggy clothing will hide definition, while tighter fits will accentuate it.
2. Make sure your clothing fits - A garment that fits well but is in an unflattering style will look
better than a piece with a poor fit in a style meant to flatter your body shape.
3. Buy clothing that looks great on you now. Shop for your current figure, not the one you think
you should have. You don’t want to waste money on clothes you might never wear.
4. Check how clothing looks from behind - This step is crucial in finding flattering clothes that a
lot of people skip.
5. Don’t always follow fashion trends - Develop your own style and only incorporate trends that
fit it well.

Building Wardrobe
Wardrobe - It includes your clothes to wear including accessories
Group your clothes
 1. Clothing you wear often. Clothing is well-suited to your personality, Style, and geographic.
Clothes you wear a lot are the most fluttering to your body type/coloring.
2. Clothing you wear occasionally. Ideality reasons why some clothes are just okay rather
threstyled. Look in the mirror and study yourself! Recycle - Most outdated garments can be
altered or restyled to reflect current trends.
3. Clothing need repairs or cleaning. Probably worth saving but need attention before they are
worn.
4. Clothing not worn in the past year. Clothes you don’t wear are not worth the space they take in
your closet or drawers
Meeting Clothing Needs
1) Basic garments – these are the garments worn most often. These should be classic styles and
neutral colors that will have a long-lasting fashion life.
2) Extenders – items you have that expand your wardrobe and may be less expensive (example:
jeans, polka dot top, stripes)
3) Accessories- items you add to wear with your garments and help to complete outfits in a
wardrobe.

Different ways on taking care of the clothes

1. Wash less – Washing garments too often can actually cause damage to the fibres and hence
decrease the lifespan.
2. Hand Wash Your Clothes – prevents the rubbing of all different materials in the washing
machine, which can lead to faster damage and fading.
3. Go for quality over quantity – Invest in clothing that holds better quality.
4. Protect your clothes – should all be protecting them from damage and stains.
5. Read Wash Care – If the wash care label suggests a cold-water wash or dry clean only, it is
essential to follow those instructions.
6. If possible, air-dry your clothes – Excessive use of the dryer can cause fabrics to shrink and
elastics to break down.
7. Store your clothes properly – Store them in a clean, dry, and cool environment that has no
contact with direct sunlight to keep them in good condition.
8. Repair damage and alteration.
9. Fold clothes along the seams – To avoid unwanted creases and maintain the shape of the item.
10. Love your clothes

Importance of taking care of the clothes

Caring for clothing items properly will extend their life. Taking care of your clothes will make
you look better, help them last longer, and save you a ton of money when compared to buying new ones.
Proper care and maintenance of our clothes is very important for healthy living. Neat and clean clothes
are gives us a good feel. Taking care of your clothes can also be an environmentally-friendly practice.
When clothes are not properly cared for, they may become damaged or worn out more quickly, which can
lead to them being discarded and ending up in landfills.
 HE 12 – Clothing Construction

Design of Children’s Wear

Children’s wear is the most cute creations. These little clothes are done by creative fashion designers
and sewn by the most patient dressmakers.
Childrenswear is mostly embossed with trimmings that could be more appealing to the young people.
For ease of care, choose fabric that are washable; also check the care requirements of white or pastel
colors.
For convenience, always provide a pocket or two.
Range of children’s wear
Children’s T-Shirt ▪ Lasting Wear Ability ▪ Easy & comfortable ▪ Easy to wash and maintain ▪ Variety of
colors
Children’s Long Sleeve T-shirt ▪ Made from superior cloths ▪ Color Fast ▪ Easy to Wash ▪ Smart Design
Children’s Neck T-shirt ▪ Superb fit ▪ Good for Winter season ▪ Easy & comfortable ▪ Variety of colors
Children’s Hoodies ▪ Soothing Colors ▪ Perfect Fit ▪ Protect Kids from Heat and Cold ▪ Comfortable
Children’s Rompers ▪ Snug and Comfortable ▪ Lasting Wear Ability ▪ Perfect Fit ▪ Easy to wash and
maintain
Children’s Trousers ▪ Perfect Fit ▪ Comfortable to wear ▪ Flexible to wear ▪ Good for Winter season
Children’s Snowsuit ▪ Best usable to snowfall country ▪ Warm the body ▪ No breathability in cloth ▪ Kids
are safe in winter season
Children’s Over Jacket ▪ Warm the body ▪ Best usable in winter season ▪ Best fitting.

Kinds of Trimming use in designing children’s wear

Trimmings - are used to give the children’s wear look more attractive and for decorations.
Different kinds of Trimming in Children’s wear
1. Motif – is the basic or smallest unit of a design. It solely used in creating patterns on paper and fabric.
2. Fringe – a way of preventing a cut piece of fabric from unraveling when a hemming was not used.
Several strands of weft threads would be removed, and the remaining warp threads would be twisted or
braided together to prevent unraveling.
3. Satin bias binding – it give a luxurious finish to children’s wear. It is also used as buckle.
4. Appliques – sewing technique in which fabric patches are layered on a foundation fabric, then stitched
in place by hand or machine with the raw edges turned under or covered with decorative stitching.
5. Beaded Trim – a type of beadwork that uses a needle and thread to stitch beads to a surface of fabric,
suede, or leather.
6. Crinoline – stiff fabric made of horsehair and cotton or linen, was used to make underskirts and as a
dress lining.
7. Braids – it is made by interlacing three or more yarns or fabric strips, forming a flat or tubular
narrow fabric.
8. Hand Embroidery Stitches – is the art of decorative stitching on fabric with needle and thread.
9. Lace – openwork pattern and is usually made of natural materials: silk, cotton, wool, viscose. It used to
show the feminine and graceful side.
10. Ribbons – narrow loom-woven strips of cloth, often with a visible selvage on each side that helps
them to maintain their form.
11. Tassels- a finishing feature in fabric and clothing decoration.
12. Rickrack – a flat piece of braided trim, shaped like a zigzag. It is used as a decorative element in
clothes.
13. Ruffles – a decorative frill of lace or gathered ornamentation of fabric, often used to trim or
embellish the wrist or neck.
14. Rhinestones – stones that look like diamonds. They are shiny glass jewels made out of hard glass,
often made in the semblance of a diamond.
15. Rhinestones transfer – a group of hot fix rhinestones that have been arranged in some kind of design
so that it can be heat pressed onto fabric.
16. Sequins – small, shiny discs that are sewn on clothes to decorate them.
17. Swarovski crystals – crystals in vibrant hues were applied on cotton and silk fabrics to create a
subtle shimmering effect and geometric crystal designs.
18. Buttons – fastener that joins two pieces of fabric together by slipping through a loop or by sliding
through a buttonhole.
19. Machine Embroidery stitches – is an embroidery process whereby a sewing machine or embroidery
machine is used to create art patterns on textiles.
20. Cord - trimming made by twisting or plying two or more strands of yarn together.
21. Pompoms - a small woolen ball attached to a garment, especially a hat, for decoration.

Fabric Suitable for Children’s Wear

The Best Fabrics for baby and Children’s Clothing are Natural and Organic Fibers.
Younger Skin Can Be Sensitive, So Clothing Needs To Be Soft And Gentle.
To Be Suitable For Kids, Fabric Needs To Be Durable And Hypoallergenic.
Things To Consider When Choosing Fabric For Baby And Children’s Clothes
1. Adaptability and Usability Of Materials
2. Flexibility of the Fabric
What Properties Do Baby And Children’s Wear Need?
1) Natural Vs. Artificial
Natural Fibers should be used for baby and Children’s Wear.
Artificial Fibers with their Plastic Origins Had Long Been Dismissed as Suitable Materials For Children.
2) Durability. When It Comes To Kid’s Clothes Wear, The Fabric Used Must Be Tough. Babies
Can Go Through Four Outfits Per Day.
3) Comfort. Babies And Children Are Like Little Dynamos When It Comes To Expanding Energy.
With Never-Ending Power Reserves, They Are On The Go Constantly.
4) Sensitive Skin. Young Skin Tends To Be Delicate. Easily Aggravated By Harsh Chemicals,
Children And Babies Need Their Clothing To Be Hypoallergenic—Especially Newborn Babies.
5) Breathability. One Thing Baby Are Unable To Do Is To Regulate Their Own Temperature.
Overheating Is Thought To Be One Of The Causes Of Sudden Infant Death Syndrome (SIDS),
Also Known As Cot Death.
6) Waterproof. Babies And Children Don’t Like Being Wet. Modern Diapers Are Designed To
Make Sure They Stay Dry By Combining Soft, Moisture-Absorbing Qualities Of Cotton With
An Outside Layer Of Synthetic Waterproof.
7) Fast Drying. Children And Babies Go Through Several Clothing Changes In A Day. • Whether
It’s Because Of Food Spills, Potty-Training Accidents, Or General Play, Their Clothes Seem To
Live In The Laundry Basket.
8) Ease Of Care. Fabrics Used For Kids’ Wear Need To Be Easy To Care For. Even Clothing For
A Newborn Can Be Changed Three Or Four Times A Day. With That Much Washing, The
Fibers Need To Be Resilient And Robust Enough. To Survive Multiple Dunks In A Washing
Machine
Fabric For Baby And Children’s Clothes
1) Cotton. Is A Material Suitable For All Seasons. Natural And Versatile, This Fabric Can Keep
Babies And Children Dry And Comfortable. .
2) Voile. Is A Semi-Sheer Fabric Which Is Almost Gauze-Like.
3) Broadcloth. This Fabric, Which Is Lightweight And Smooth, Can Be A Cotton Or Cotton
4) Eyelet Cotton Or Broderie Anglaise Fabric. There Is Nothing More Beautiful Than
Embroidery On Fabric. Isn’t It Great That With Eyelet And Broderie Anglaise Fabric You Get
5) Bamboo. Is Hypoallergenic And Mold Resistant.
6) HEMP. Is Both Durable And Sustainable. It Has A Reputation For Being Scratchy, When In
Fact, It’s Soft.
7) Jersey Knit. This Is The Stretchy Fabric Baby Vests, Baby-Grows, Or Sleepsuits Are Made
From. Usually Cotton-Based, The Fabric Can Also Be Made From Polycotton Or Polyester.
8) Linen. This Fabric Has Several Qualities Perfect For Taking Care Of Delicate Young Skin.

Preparing a Project Plan for an empire-cut dress with trimmings for little girls
Procedures
 1. Draft the pattern
2. Prepare the fabric
3. Cut the fabric
4. Baste the skirt for shirrings
5. Sew the upper bodice of the empire-cut dress
6. Join the upper bodice and skirt
7. Hem the bottom of the dress
8. Attach the buttons and sew the buttonholes
9. Attach the trimmings
10. Trim all excesses threads

Facing
Facing – a piece of fabric used to finish raw edges of a garment at open areas such as the neckline,
armhole, and front and back plackets or opening.
Three Basic Types of Facings
1) Shaped Facings- is a separate piece of a fabric cut from a pattern to the same shape on the same
grain on the edge of the garment it will finish.
a. Neckline Facing – one of the most common places you’ll find facings.
b. Combination Facing – a shaped facing wherein both neckline and armholes are finished by
the same facing unit.
c. V-neckline Facing – a shaped facing on a garment that comes down to a point on the throat
or chest, resembling the shape of the letter “V”
Slashed shaped facing is finished the same way with any other facings.
2) Extended Facing – is cut as an extension of the garment and folded back along the edge if
finishes. It is often used on garments with front or back opening cut on a straight line.
3) Bias Facing – is a bias-cut lightweight fabric in a form of a narrow strip used to finish the
garment opening. The bias should measure about ½ inch wide when finished.
WHY USE DIFFERENT TYPES OF FACING
A really neat facing finishes off the raw edges around necklines, armholes and waistbands. Facings make
a difference to the neatness, style, and finish of a garment. Facings give the finishing touch and
professional look and accentuate features like necklines and armholes.

Preparing and Attach the Armhole Fitted Facing

Armhole facings are a great way to add a clean, tailored look to a sleeveless garment.
Armhole facings are comprised of a back facing and a front facing.
Cutting and Sewing an Armhole Facing
1. Fold the fabric parallel to the selvage edge so that the face side is touching. You need to cut on a
double layer of fabric because armhole facings require two of each front and back patterns. Align
the grain line of the facing patterns to the fabric’s selvage edge and pin the front and back
armhole facings.
2. Cut along the front and back armhole facings through both layers of fabric making sure that the
curved edges are smooth and both facings are cut precisely to the sewing patterns.
3. Remove the pins and separate the facings. Match one of the front facings with a back facing and
pin them together at the shoulder seam making sure the right side of the fabric is touching as
shown above. Apply the pins perpendicular to the edge. Repeat this process with the other front
and back armhole facing. If you get a little confused about which facing is the back and which
corresponds to the front, keep in mind that back armhole facing pieces are always a bit longer
than front ones. Remembering this will help not only when it comes to pinning and sewing the
facings, but also when aligning and sewing the finished facings to the garment’s armhole.
4. Just like you did with the shoulder seam, match and pin the bottom side seams. Pin perpendicular
to the edge, ensuring that the face of both fabric layers is touching. Repeat this step for both
facings.
5. Sew the shoulder seams and side seams at the proper seam allowance- in our case, ½” seam
allowance. Don’t forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of your stitch.
6. Once all seams are stitched, iron the facings’ seams open as shown above.
7. At this point, finish the outer raw edge of each facing. Don’t wait until you’ve sewn the facing to
the garment to clean-finish the facings’ raw edges- this is more difficult and less convenient to do
when the facing is sewing into the armhole. We used a serging stitch to clean finish our facing
which is the easiest, least expensive option if you own an overlock machine. You may use a zig
zag stitch on your home sewing machine but make sure the tension balance is adjusted properly
and the zig zag stitch is set at a dense setting. For a higher quality finish, you may fold the zig
zag-edge in once and machine stitch, use a baby hem or add binding along the raw edge.
8. Align the facing’s shoulder seam and side seam to the garments shoulder seam and side seam
respectively, making sure the face side of the facing is touching the right side of the garment.
Place a pin through each seam as shown above. The seams are always the first area you should
align and pin.
9. Place pins horizontally along the edge making sure to connect the facing’s inner edge to the
armhole’s raw edge. Make sure the edges of both are matched perfectly paying close attention to
the most curved areas at the bottom.
10. Stitch the facing to the garment’s armhole on your sewing machine at the proper seam allowance
– ½” in this case. When machine stitching, make sure the raw edges remain aligned throughout
and be cautions stitching along the most curved edge, sometimes proving more difficult to sew.
11. Clip the fabric at the seam allowance along the curved areas of the armhole’s edge for tension
release. Use a wedge clip for the most curved area of armhole. Add a few notch clips along the
less curved edge to release additional tension.
12. Once the seam allowance is clipped for tension release, iron the facing’s seam with the facing
pointing away from the garment. Make sure the seam allowance is pointing towards the facing as
shown above.
13. Machine stitch on top of the facing, at about 1/8” from the seam. This is called under-stitching
and will ensure that the facing is aligned towards the inside of the garment, maintaining a smooth,
flat edge. The under-stitch is applied through the seam allowance at the back to keep it pointing
towards the facing permanently- this is what keeps the facing pointing towards the inside of the
garment when the facing is complete.
14. Flip the facing to the inside if the garment, rolling the edge inward slightly and iron along the
armhole’s edge for a flat, smooth finish.
15. Align the facing’s seams to the garment’s seams both at the shoulder and side seam. Place a pin
through each seam line as shown above.
16. Use a hand sewing needle and thread to tack the facing in place at the seams. Sew a few loop
stitches connecting the facing to the garment’s seam allowance as shown above. Make sure you
 don’t sew through the face of the garment. The stitches should only be visible on the inside of the
garment and on top of the facing at the side and shoulder seams.
17. Repeat this step on both sides of every seam as displayed above. This will ensure that the facing
stays on the inside of the garment during wear and through continual wash cycles.

Preparing and Attaching Bias Facing

Bias Facing – is a bias-cut lightweight fabric in a form of a narrow strip used to finish the garment
opening.
Procedure
a) Cut the bias strip twice as wide as the desired finish width plus the width of two seam allowances.
b) The length should be the length of the edge of the seamline.
c) Fold the strip half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Using a steam iron, press the bias strip
following the shape of the edge it will fit. Keep the raw edges even.
d) Baste the bias strip to the garment, keeping the edges even. Sew the bias strip on the inward
curves stretching on the outward curves.
e) Trim the seam allowances on the facing narrower than the garment seam allowance. Clip the
seam allowance on the inward curve every inch.
f) Turn the facing to the inside and grading stretch understitch. Let the seamline roll slightly to the
inside.
g) Trim all ends and turn under inche at the garment opening.
h) Slipstitch the edge of the facing to the inside of the garment.
How to Create Handmade Bias Tape?
Bias tape can be used to finish raw edges—like armholes and necklines—in a variety of ways. Using
single fold bias tape helps you to create a discrete and professional finish that is not visible from the right
side of the garment.
A bias tape marker is an essential tool for creating precise bias tape. This tool comes in various sizes
but the 12mm (1/2/ size work well for bias tape.
Procedures:
1) Cut fabric into 1” wide strips on the bias. The bias runs along a 45-degree angle on the fabric,
which is the stretches direction of the fabric. Cutting your bias tape at this exact angle allows it to
bend evenly around curves.
2) Use scissors or a rotary cutter to square off the ends of each strip of bias tape so that they are at a
90-degree angle.
3) With right sides together, align two bias pieces together at a 90-degree angle, pin
4) Use a marking tool and ruler to draw a straight line connecting the corners of the bias tape
5) Use a straight stitch with a small stitch length (1.5) to sew along the marked line. Trim the seam
allowance and press open. Repeat as needed to create the desired length of bias.
6) Feed the joined bias tape through the bias tape maker with the wrong side facing up. Press the
creases in place as you continue to feed the bias through the bias tape maker.
7) To store, wrap the bias tape around a small piece of cardstock or cardboard, using a paper clip or
binder clip to.
How to Attach Bias Tape Facing?
Procedures:
1) If you are attaching the bias tape in a continuous circle (such as a neckline or armhole), measure
the edge you are applying bias tape to. Take this measurement and add the total width of the bias
tape to it. For instance, if the neckline measures 18” and the bias tape is 1” wide then: 18+1=19.
Cut a piece of bias tape to this length.
2) With right sides together, align the two edges of bias tape together at a 90-degree angle, pin.
3) Use a marking tool and ruler to draw a straight line connecting the corners of the bias tape. Use a
straight stitch with a small stitch length (1.5) to sew along the marked line. Trim the seam
allowance and press open.
4) With the right sides together, pin the bias tape to the edge of the fabric.
5) Sew along the first fold of the tape. Take care not to pull at the garment or the tape.
6) Carefully clip the seam allowance and press the seam allowance toward the bias tape, being
careful not to remove any of the folds in the bias tape.
7) Under stitch the bias tape, catching the seam allowance.
8) Turn the bias tape toward the wrong side of the garment, and carefully pin in place.
9) Stitch close to the edge of the bias tape. Trim threads. Press to finish.
 HE 13 – Crafts and Design
MACRAME
MACRAME — is referred to as the art of tying knots from twine, strings, ropes or cord to produce useful
decorative and yet functional articles.The word MACRAMÉ is Arabic origin meaning “a coarse fringe”
or “a lace of thread knotted in design”. Its primary knots are the square knot and form of hitching (full
hitch and double half hitch).
4.1 Estimating, Measuring and Cutting cords
When you’re just starting out with Macramé, you’re probably wondering how to measure the correct rope
length for your projects.
How do I know the length of cord I need for a project?
In most cases, your Macrame cord needs to be roughly four times the length of your project. When your
cord is folded in half with a Lark’s Head Knot to create two cords, go eight times the length.
 When estimating the length of your cord, it’s important to look at the pattern first:
 If your pattern consists of many knots, you will probably need more rope
 When your pattern consists of many straight cords, you can cut the rope a bit shorter
 The thicker the cord, the longer it needs to be
 Braided and 3-ply ropes take up more length per knot than a single strand cord
 When in doubt, always cut more rope than you think you need
 Always estimate extra cord to create a fringe at the end
How to calculate Macrame cord lengths?
If you want to be more specific, you can calculate the length of each knot separately. Simply tie the knot
and mark the top and bottom of the knot on the rope with a pen. Now untie the knot to measure how much
cord was needed for one knot and multiply the length of each knot to measure up your project.
What size cord is best for Macrame?
 o The thickness of the macrame cord is often indicated in millimeters (mm). When picking the right
rope diameter for your project, I recommend using a standard medium-sized Macrame cord of at
least 3-5mm.
o Medium-sized cords are the #1 choice by most fiber artists and are perfect for creating your wall
hangings, plant hangers, and other Macrame home decor projects.
o If you want to design a giant wall piece, you can even go up to 8mm (about 0.31 in). Just consider
that such a thick cord will make your project very heavy.
o For tiny projects like bracelets, I recommend staying under 2mm (about 0.08 in).

How do you choose the best Macrame rope?

o After lots of trial and error, I’ve found that the quality of your ropes and cords is very important
when working on a Macrame Wall hanging or Macrame Planter.
o Especially as a beginner, you want a cord that’s soft on your fingers and easy to work with.
o When you’re still practicing your knots, I recommend picking patterns that use at least 4mm
(about 0.16 in) ropes, so it’s easier to unravel when you’re making a mistake.

4.2 MATERIAL TOOL USE IN MACRAME

1. Abaca Twine
2. Cotton Twine
3. Waxed Cotton
4. Nylon or Rayon
5. Waxed Nylon
Abaca Twine. This comes in different sizes and can be substituted for cotton twine.
Cotton Twine. This is sometimes called "cotton cord" It is the most widely used knotting materials.
Available at kilo or skein
Nylon or Rayon. This is a synthetic silky finish brand or cord. May come in thin sizes and referred to as
nylon size. Very smooth texture. Used in jewelry articles with elegant hook.
Waxed Cotton. This is softer than linen an excellent materials for macrame. Knot prominently and are
very distinctive
Waxed Nylon. This is excellent for jewelry making because of smooth texture it usually comes in small
sizes.
Basic sizes of cords are illustrated below sizes as written.
Dowel Rods (for Wall Hangings) a wooden rod that forms the basis of many macramé projects.
Wooden Rings (For Plant Hangers) plant hangers are one of the trendiest things going on right now on
the web. They are decorative, modern, and fun! If you’re trying to figure out where to put all the plants
you can’t stop buying, it might be time to hang a few of them and learn the incredibly fun world of
macrame!
• Comb
• Tape
• Bead --- Many people love incorporating beads in their projects, but that is totally optional.
• Macrame plant --Macrame is so much fun, and so beginner friendly! It can feel overwhelming figuring
out where to start.

4.3 TERMINOLOGIES USE IN MACRAME

1) Knotting Cords - The right and left cords that are used to tie knots over filler cords. The knots are
made with these cords.
2) Filler Cords - The cords that are in the center of the knotting cords.
3) Holding Cords - The Cord, Dowel, or ring onto which you anchor your project while you work on it.
4) Working Cords - All cords in a design. This are the outside cords with which the knots are made
5) Knot-bearing Cords - These are the strengthening cords with which the knotting cord may be tied.
They might be vertical horizontal or diagonal.
6) Wrapping Cords - The cord used to gather and wrap a group of cords. You’ll see this at the top of a
plant hanger.
7) Picot - These are small loops made by extending knotting cord from the original pattern to form
ornamental edges.
8) Flat Knots - Solomon’s knots, these are knots which needs four cords ( ex. two pairs) to be worked
on two movements alternately.
9) Half Hitch - This is especially suited in making single or double horizontal, vertical or slanting bars.
Only one cord or half of pairs is used as the knowing cord to work on the other half as the holding
cord Thus, a half-hitch is produced from a single cord and a double half-hitch on a pair of cords. The
illustration below shows the basic weaving of hall-hitch, and the steps in making bars
10) Spiral Flat Knots - Works in similar way as the straight flat knot. The movement differs whereby the
movement comes from one direction only (always right or always left) rather than alternately.

4.4 MAKING MACRAME SQUARE KNOT

4.5 MACRAME PATTERN

1. The Gourmand pattern. This pattern is made from three Flat knots, tied in different directions
(or 1,5 Square Knots). It is often used as a central knot, gathering together several cords
2. The square Knot Braid. This pattern is made from three Flat knots, tied in different directions
(or 1,5 Square Knots). It is often used as a central knot, gathering together several cords
3. The Spiral Braid. This braid is made from a number of Square Knots. It is one of the most
common patterns in Macrame
4. The Chain Braid. To create this braid make Loop knots, alternating both ends. This braid is very
stretch.
5. The Wavy Braid. To create this pretty braid, mount four threads. With edge cords make Loop
Knots over two base cords. Alternate right and left working cords.
6. Loop Knots Braid. This simple Spiral braid is created by a sennit of Loop Knots. Using a right
end as a working thread will make a Spiral braid that winding to the right, and using the left end
will create a left-winding spiral.
7. The Josephine Knot. This is one of the most beautiful Macrame knots
8. The cross ( chinese ) knot. Place 2 threads as shown in the illustration and then pull the ends
evenly. You will have a very nice square-shaped knot
9. The Snake Knot. Fix two cords. Make a Loop Knot with the right cord. Then with the left cord
tie a loop through the first one. Tie the knot
5.1 TYPES OF PAPER USE IN PAPER CRAFT
5.2 PAPER CRAFT ARTICLE
Different Paper Craft Articles
1) Hand made paper envelope - this may be made out of gift wrapping paper old maps, wallpaper
scraps, Catalogs , magazines, or newspapers. You can also make a tiny envelope to match a gift
2) Paper bag puppet - this is made from paper bag.
3) Hand print paper lilies - a simple paper flower made from child’s hand cutout.
4) Paper bag pinata - a party bag made from paper bag and colored tissue paper.
5) Card Flap Envelope - this is a special envelope/card out of any type of paper.
6) Dancing Dragon/ lion toy - this is a dancing paper for Chinese New Year.
7) Pinwheel - this is a pinwheel from paper, pencil and pushpin.
8) Paper box - this is a little paper box made from stationery.
9) Pressed and dried flowers stationery and card crafts - use them to make beautiful cards and
stationery.
10) Paper frog puppet - made from a piece of paper. This puppet’s mouth moves.

5.3 SUGGESTED DESIGN

Suggested Origami Designs like Penguin, Swan, etc.
Origami, the ancient art of paper folding, embodies techniques for transforming a flat sheet of paper into
shapes of arbitrary complexity. Its name derives from Japanese words ori (“folding”) and gami (“paper”).
Traditional origami consists of folding a single sheet of square paper (often with a colored side) into a
sculpture without cutting, gluing, taping, or even marking it.
The following are some of the different types of folds used in origami.
1. Valley fold - This is the simplest origami fold. It involves folding the paper and creasing it in the
same way that you fold a letter.
a) Arrange the paper so that you are folding away from yourself. Hold the edge with both hands.
Fold the paper into exactly the right position.
b) Use one hand to hold the paper firmly in the proper position, then use the first finger of the
other hand to start the crease in the center of the folded edge.
c) Press the finger along the edge, working outwards to either side.
d) When the crease is completed, use a finger from each hand to reinforce it, working from the
center out.
2. Mountain fold - This is the opposite of the valley fold. If you make a valley fold and then turn
the paper over, you will a have a mountain fold.
a) Turn the paper over and make a valley fold.
b) Crease firmly, and then turn the paper to the correct position afterwards to match the
diagrams.
3. Pleat - This is simply a combination of a mountain and a valley fold. The order in which you
make the fold is up to you.
a) Position the paper as required, and then make the first crease. Here, the mountain is being
made first.
b) Turn over and rotate the paper so that it is in the correct position to make the second crease of
the pleat.
 c) Make the valley crease to complete the pleat.
4. Bases - These are sequences of folds that are used to start many models.
Methods of Folding the Bases
1) Kite base - This is the simplest of all traditional bases. It uses only three creases.
a) Start with a square, white side up. Fold in half diagonally. crease, and unfold.
b) Fold one side to lie along the diagonal crease.
2) Blintz base - This simple base derived its name from a Jewish pastry technique. Since you are
folding four comers to the center, you need to know where the center is. You can do this either by
folding diagonally on both ways, or from side-to-side in one way.
Method 1
a) Start with a square, white side up. Fold in half diagonally in both directions. Crease and unfold.
b) Fold one corner to the center of the square, aligning the point carefully
c) Repeat with the remaining three comers to complete the base.

Method 2
a) Start with a square, white side up. Fold in half horizontally. Fold the two shorter edges up to meet
the horizontal crease.
b) Turn the paper over and repeat on the other side.
c) Unfold the horizontal crease to reveal the completed base.

3) Preliminary base - This is named because it is preliminary to many traditional designs. It

consists simply of creases from comer to comer and side to side.
a) Start with square, colored side up. Crease in half diagonally.
b) Unfold, and then repeat along the other side diagonally Unfold again.
c) Turn the paper over and crease in half from side to side Unfold
d) Rotate the paper 90° and crease in half from side to side again, so that you now have vertical,
horizontal, and diagonal creases.

4) Bird base - This base is perhaps best known as the base from which the flapping bird and the
traditional crane are made, but it has been used to make other birds and many different subjects.
a) Fold the raw edges of the uppermost layer to the vertical center crease.
b) Fold the top triangular section down over these two flaps.
c) Unfold the two flaps from beneath the triangle.
d) Lift the uppermost layer by the bottom point and swing it upwards. The outside flaps will
begin to fold inwards.
e) Allow the paper to flatten and crease the folds firmly. This technique is called petal folding.
f) Turn the paper over and repeat on the other side.
g) Fold the upper flap downwards, and then repeat on the other side to complete the base.

5) Waterbomb base - This is named after school children's design.

a) Start with a square, colored side up. Crease side to side both ways.
b) Turn the paper over and crease diagonally.
c) Repeat with the other side diagonally.
 d) Open out the paper and position it so that one straight edge is towards you. Use the creases to
bring the top corners towards you, pressing your fingers along the horizontal center to bring
in the sides.
e) The upper edge will fold down to complete the base. Reinforce the creases.

6) Multiform and windmill bases - The multiform base is very flexible and can be used to create
many models.
a) Unfold the waterbomb base so that the mountain diagonals are upwards.
b) Fold each comer to the center, crease, and unfold.
c) Turn the paper over and fold each side to the center. Crease and unfold.
d) Start to fold the halfway points of each side in towards the center.
e) When these points are at the center, flatten two triangular flaps towards the top and two
towards the bottom. This forms a multiform base.
f) Swing two of the flaps in the direction to form a windmill Base.

5. Reverse folding - This involves changing (reversing) the direction of the creases from valley to
mountain or vice versa, so that you can wrap part of the paper around the outside or to the inside.
Reverse folding is always made easier by precreasing.

Outside reverse fold

a) Fold the kite base in half.
b) Make a precrease to mark the position of the reverse fold. Unfold.
c) Open the paper slightly and wrap the layer around the outside. This will reverse all of the
precreases.
Inside reverse fold. The arrow indicates the direction in which you should apply pressure when
forming the reverse fold.
a) Start with a kite base folded in half, as before. Make a precrease to position the reverse fold,
and then unfold.
b) Open the paper slightly and gently push the flap inside the original layers, reversing the
precreases on both sides as you do so.
Double reverse fold. This is simply a combination of an inside and an outside reverse fold. It is
often used for creating head and beak. The arrow indicates that a flap or perhaps a layer is to be
eased out from whatever it lies.
a) Start with a kite base folded in half.
b) Form a pleat to mark the position of the reverses, and then unfold.
c) Sink the whole point inside the layers, at the farthest crease from the point.
d) Use a finger to apply pressure to the crease nearest the point, and at the same time pull the
point of the paper back out. Make all the folds neat.

6. Crimp - This is a type of fold that allows you to create a change of angle in a strip or pointed
flap. The paper that is lost in the fold lies ether inside or outside the rest of the paper, determining
whether it is an inside or outside crimp. A crimp acts like a hinge, and it is often used when
forming heads.

Inside Crimp
 a) Precrease the first indicated crease through both layers (here, the vertical crease is being
made).
b) Precrease the second indicated crease through both layers (diagonal crease). Open out the
paper.
c) Change the direction of the creases to valley and mountain folds as indicated on both sides
Refold in half
Outside Crimp
a) Precrease both indicated creases through both layers, in the same way as when forming an
inside crimp
b) Change the different directions of the crease to mountain and valley folds in the correct order,
so that this time the paper swivels on the outside rather than the inside.

7. Squash - Whenever you have two edges joined at one end, you can squash that point. The squash
is usually symmetrical, but must not always be so.
a) Start with a square. Crease it in hall vertically, and then unfold Crease it in half horizontally,
and leave it folded.
b) Fold a short edge to the center, crease and fold Rotate the paper so that the fold is towards
you to make folding easier and more accurate
c) Take the folded edge to the crease. Crease firmly and unfold.
d) Fold the upper layer over the crease you made in step b, taking the edge up to the center
horizontal crease. The folded edge at the corner will start to open out and move down
e) Keep pressing the end of the flap so that it spreads into a triangle Crease the squash fold
firmly.

8. Sink - Sometimes, a folding sequence creates a folded point that you do not want. Rather than
cutting off, you can sink it out of the way. The easiest method is to use open sink, which involves
opening out the paper and arranging the creases so that you can sink the point inside. A closed
sink involves applying pressure to the point so that it pops inside, without opening out the paper
a) Starting with a waterbomb base, fold the point over to create the sinking point and crease
very firmly
b) Open the paper and alter the sink creases around the edge to be mountain folds. This will
form a small square
c) Press in the center and start to form diagonal valley folds within the square
d) Keep pressing the edges together until the point is fully sunk Flatten the paper to complete
the sink fold.
 HE 14 – Arts in Daily Living

HISTORY OF MACRAME AND BASKETRY

Macramé’s roots are quite interesting, with a history dating back thousands of years. It is
a form of textile produced using knotting (rather than weaving or knitting) techniques. The
primary knots of macramé are the square (or reef knot) and forms of “hitching”: various
combinations of half hitches. It was long crafted by sailors, especially in elaborate or ornamental
knotting forms, to cover anything from knife handles to bottles to parts of ships.
It was long crafted by sailors, especially in elaborate or ornamental knotting forms, to
cover anything from knife handles to bottles to parts of ships. Leather or fabric belts are another
accessory often created via macramé techniques. Most friendship bracelets exchanged among
schoolchildren and teens are created using this method.
Either way, decorative macramé first appears in carvings by the Babylonians and
Assyrians that depict fringed braiding used to adorn costumes.
 Additionally, it is believed to release stress through the fingers, making macramé
knotting a relaxing activity. Macramé has the additional benefit of enjoying the process of self-
expression through the creation of the inherent objective hidden within (Jim Gentry, 2002).
Basketry or basket making is the process of weaving or sewing pliable materials into
three-dimensional artifacts, such as baskets, mats, mesh bags or even furniture. Craftspeople and
artists specialized in making baskets may be known as basket makers and basket weavers. Basket
weaving is also a rural craft. Basketry is made from a variety of fibrous or pliable materials-
anything that will bend and form a shape. Examples include pine straw, willow, oak, vines,
stems, animal hair, grasses, thread, and fine wooden splints. Many Indigenous peoples are
renowned for their basket-weaving techniques.
Basket weaving dates back a very long time. In fact, it pre-dates, some forms of pottery
and woven cloth. Evidence for this has been discovered in the form of stone carvings from
around 20,000 years BC. The materials used would have depended on people’s surroundings and
varied considerably, from willow to roots, brambles, vines, oak, ash, hazel, bamboo, leaves,
straw, rush and bark. Some things were woven, others were coiled.
The basket is one of humankind’s oldest art forms, and It is certainly an ethnic and
cultural icon filled with myth and motif, religion and symbolism, and decoration as well as
usefulness.
Baskets are part of the heritage of nearly every native people, and types of construction
differ as radically as other customs and crafts. Uses for baskets may be the most uniting feature.
Dry food is gathered, stored, and served in baskets; liquids are also retained in baskets that have
been waterproofed. Basket-making techniques are used for clothing, hats, and mats.
Kinds of Macrame Products
1) Rug Product. Tightly braided yarns create a multicolored rug with handmade appeal.
2) Cushion Product. A variety of knotting techniques are being used to add tactile surfaces
to cushions. Macro sized yarns are twisted and knotted to form large-scale sculptural
cushions in soft felts.
3) Wall Hangings and Divider Product. Macramé knot panels act as natural room
dividers.
4) Planters Products. Different variations of macramé knots are rendered in fresh tonal
yarns of green and blue. Bright neon nylon yarns form heavy duty plant supports.
5) Glassware Product. Knotted and braided coverings for glassware are adding a tactile
vintage aesthetic to the home. Wine bottle storage is formed from loosely knotted multi-
colored yarns.
6) Kitchen and dining product. Dining accessories are also incorporating the macramé
trend across placemats, napkin rings and runners.
7) Bowls and baskets product. Knots and braids are being used to create intricate bowls
and baskets for both decorative and functional purposes.
 8) Seating product. Furniture designers are employing traditional craft techniques to form
innovative new chair designs. Braided hammock-style hanging chairs use simple
macramé patterns
9) Lighting product. Lighting designers employ novel ways to reinvent macramé
techniques
Kinds of Basketry Products
1) Storage. This type of baskets are being used for storage of household items such as
clothes and blankets.
2) Food Gathering and Preparation Winnowing Tray. Serving trays and fish traps are
examples of baskets used in food gathering and preparation. Winnowing trays are used
to separate rice from its hull while serving trays are utilized as container of rice and other
foods for consumption. Fish trap are used for fishing along flowing.
3) Personal Baskets. These are either small bags which are fitted beneath the arms to carry
tobacco and other personal belongings.
WEAVING TECHNIQUES
1. Coiling. It is a technique which involves sewing.
2. Plaiting. It is also known as checker weave, is a straightforward technique in which the weft
crosses over and under one warp at a time.
3. Twining. It is a technique in which two wefts cross over each other between warps.
MATERIALS TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT IN MACRAME AND BASKETRY
Macrame Tools
a) Scissors – These can cut through many different types of material, including fabric.
b) Measuring Tape – essential for measuring and cutting strands of cord for your projects.
c) Fringe Comb – This is a durable, sturdy stainless steel tool comb through fringe easily,
giving it a nice, fluffy texture.
d) Crochet Hook – This is a super helpful tool to have for macramé.
e) Macrame Cord Dispenser – incredibly useful when you’re cutting cord for your projects.
Simply place the spool of cord onto the dispenser and weave the end through the loop on
the dispenser.
BASKETRY MATERIALS
1. Buri – The largest native palm species found in the Philippines, with trunks attaining a diameter
of 1 meter, height of 20 meters, and with large fan-shaped leaves from which buri braids and
raffia are made.
2. Tikog- is a grassy plant which grows in aquatic or grassy areas. It is harvested and formed into
mats. These Mats are characteristic of the Luzon region of the Philippines. They are made into
thicker mats for sleeping all the way to finger thinner mats for products such as the handbags we
have imported.
3. Nito vine –( Lygodium Circinnatum) is a plant belonging to the fern family that grows
abundantly in the hinterlands of Mindanao in Southern Philippines. It is vine growing as a
 secondary forest cover clinging to trees and rocks. This climbing fern is very common in the
Philippines at low and medium altitudes.

BASIC TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT IN BASKETERY

1) Shaver, Knife, Scorf – use to cut and remove, scrape upper part of the materials
2) Needle Nose Pliers – used to bend, re-position and snip wire
3) Spoke Weight – used to measure to get the exact length of reed or space between reeds
4) Sharp angle or side cutters – Used to trim close and in hard to reach areas
5) Shears – used for cutting the reed

RAW MATERIALS FOR BASKET MAKING

1. Abaca. A palm that grows abundantly in Bicol provinces, Leyte, and Mindanao. This fiber is
used in making slippers, sandals, trinkets, baskets, sewing baskets, bags, dusters, rugs, ropes,
hammocks, belts, lampshade, matting, and others.
2. Buntal. T.is is a kind of fiber, processed from the petioles of the buri palm. Buntal is an excellent
material for weaving hats. The famous buntal hats from the towns of Calasiao in Pangasinan and
Baliuag in Bulacan are made from buntal fibers. It is also used in making trinkets, baskets, ladies’
bags, envelopes, and others.
3. Buri leaves. These are young leaves which are processed from buri plants. Many industrial
materials are derived from buri palm. The young leaves can be made into strips. Baffia is the skin
stripped from the leaf segments of the buri shoot before the blade has unfolded. It is an excellent
material for making coiled baskets. It is used in making hats, mats, bags, rice baskets, shades, and
fans.
4. Ferns. These are grouped into two kinds namely, twining and non- twining. Nito belongs to the
twining group, while locdo, alolocdo, and Jagnaya are non-twining.
a) Nito - This is a kind of vine that grows among the thickest and woody places. It is used for
wrapping the rims of basket as well as for decorative pieces in the making of baskets,
trinkets, and other containers made out of rushes, twigs, splints, and reeds,
b) Locdo. This splint is a good material for colled baskets. Locdo grows in shady places on
hillsides and in valleys.
c) Alolocdo. This is similar to locdo, but it grows best in dry thickets. To obtain the fibers, the
stem is cracked and the inner fibers are pulled out. At first, they are white in color but they
soon turn brown.
d) Jagnaya. This is found chiefly in thickets and in lowlands near the sea. Ordinarily, the stem is
dried in the sun before it is used.
5. Grasses – Under this group, the most common plants that have economic value are vetiver and
tambo. Vetiver grows wild in open wetlands, on banks of rice paddies or dikes. The roots are
prepared for use by dipping them in water for about 20 minutes. Then, they are pound lightly with
a wooden club to remove their outer covering These roots are used for weaving fans because of
their agreeable odor. Tambo grows best in Bataan. It is also widely distributed in the Philippines.
It is found on damp ground along streams or other waterways. Tambo is best used for making
brooms.
6. Lupis. This material is processed from the outer part of the sheaths of the abaca plant. It is used
in making fruit basket and cushion.
7. Maguey-This plant grows well in the provinces of Cebu, Pangasinan. Ilocos Norte, and Ilocos
Sur. It is processed by rotting and is used for making slippers, trinket baskets, twines, or ropes.
8. Nipa — The unopened leaflets of the palm are gathered separately and dried under the sun. It is
used in making raincoats or fans.
9. Rattan — This plant grows nearly in all provinces. It is used in making furniture, ladies’ bags,
and weavers for basket hammock.
10. Pandans or Screw pines — These are tropical shrubs. They are called screw pines because their
leaves are similar to those of the pineapple and grow from the stem in corkscrew fashion.

Types of Pandan

a) Karagumoy— This is a species of pandan which grows abundantly in the provinces of

Catanduanes, Albay, and Sorsogon. The leaves of karagumoy are coarse. They are split
while still fresh and then pressed as they dry. These strips are used for weaving mats,
hats, bags, or work baskets. Articles made of karagumoy have a shinier surface than those
made of other pandan.
b) Common pandan — This is found in abundant quantities in the Philippines but it is not
of much economic value. Pandan hats and mats, however, are some of the products
woven from this material.
c) Sabutan — Sabutan is of great economic value. Its color is light gray when not bleached.
Hats made of sabutan are strong and very well-suited for tropical wear. Sabutan strips
easily absorb dye. The straw is excellent for carriage and house cushions.

Steps in Processing Sabutan

1) Gather sabutan leaves.

2) Trim the spines.
3) Let it dry.
4) Strip and press.
5) Draw and press.
6) Soak and dry.
Bleaching Sabutan Strips
1) Fill a tub with a solution of water and the juice of tamarind or any citrus fruit.
2) Boil the solution and drop the coiled strips.
3) After bleaching and drying, the strips are ready for use.

11. Sedges — These resemble grasses. Some of the plants under this group are balangot, tikug, agas,
tikiw, tiker, and matting rush. Balangot is found in brackish swamps and along tidal streams. Its
principal use is for making slippers and hats.
12. Palms — These ae economic importance, not only for the valuable yield, but also for the
industrial fiber obtained froidribs, and petioles. Some of the common palms are areca nut,
dumayaca, sugar palm, buri, palma brava (anahao), and nipa.

a) Dumayaca palm is used for making different kinds of basket such as waste baskets,
market baskets, or lunch baskets, the splits are good for both weavers and spokes.
b) The leaves of palma brava are used for making salakots, while nipa palm is commonly
used for roof thatches. The midribs are also used for making baskets, brooms, and trays.
 13. Raffia — This is an industrial material processed from the outer part of the growing leaf of buri
plant or pandan. It is used in making furniture’ ladies’ bags, and weavers for basket hammocks.
14. Irao — This is specially used as decorative material. Banban (darumaca) is used for weaving
baskets usually in combination with nito, irao, and other materials.
15. Yalis — This grows practically in all provinces especially in Rizal province.
FORM S OF BASKETRY
1. Hard strip weaving usually requires materials like bamboo, banban, rattan, nito, and midribs.
2. In soft strip weaving, one needs materials such as raffia, buri, pandan, balangot, buntal, and the
like.

TYPES OF MACRAME KNOT AND BASKETRY WEAVING

Macramé is a decorative knotting technique in which interwoven strings are used. It is also the French
word for this type of knot. Macramé knots are popular because they can be used for belts, collars, bags,
and more.
Kinds Of Macramé Knots
1) Square Knot. It is a knot that is easy to tie and can be quickly learned. The square knot is used
for holding things together for many different purposes, including macrame work and tying
fishing lines. It is also used to join any two pieces of cord or rope, so it has many more uses than
just macrame work.
2) Barrel Knot. It is a knot that forms two loops, one around the other. The ends of the ropes are
then brought up through their respective loops and then tied off to create a knot that forms a loop.
It is a simple knot that tightens up and forms a barrel shape.
3) Lark’s Head. The Lark’s Head knot is named after it resembles the head of a lark. It is an open
weave knot that has two cords over one another. The loops are on the top left and right corners of
the cords where they cross.
4) Double Half Hitch. Similarly, to how you tie a shoelace, a double half hitch is a basic macrame
knot.
5) Berry Knot. A pretty simple knot to make but it can be used for a wide variety of purposes such
as package tying, curtain tiebacks, bookmark holders, an outdoor picnic tablecloth holder or even
to hold up your hair. The Berry Knot is one of the most popular macrame knots because it can be
done without any tools and with just your hands.
6) Gathering Knot. A quick and easy knot to tie, which is perfect for everyday use and beginners.
This is a simple but effective knot for stringing. When done with rope, it looks like the classic
Macrame Knots. This knot is used in many projects and crafts- from jewelry making to macrame
plant hangers and more. It is a kind of macrame knot that allows you to have more control when
working with the cordage.
7) Half Knots. One of the most popular macrame knots because it does not have any ends that need
to be woven to close off the loop.
8) Spiral Stitch. Many macrame knots are quite complicated, but this one is not. These are a great
way to make colorful and interesting projects. They are easy to learn and can be made in minutes
with the right supplies. It can be a great project for beginners who are looking to move away from
the classic macrame knots.
SAMPLE BASIC MACRAMÉ KNOTTING
Square Knot is the basis of macrame knot. It is made from minimum of two working cords and holding
cords that can vary from one cord to as many as six cords.
Procedures
1. Secure the rattan ring on a working board. This will hold the ring while working.
2. Take two pieces 1 m long cords and make a lark’s head knot on the ring.
3. Set the right-hand cord and pass it under the center cords and over the left-hand cord.
4. At the same time, bring the left-hand cord over the center cords and under the right-hand cord.
5. Push up the knot just below the knotting on base.
6. Repeat the procedure starting this time with the left cord under the center pair and over the right
cord, and at the same time, passing the right cord over the center and under the left cord.
7. Tighten and finish the flat knot in so many times as required.
How to Make Macrame
1. Use a lark’s head knot to attach your cordage to a ring or horizontal bar. Often, this will be used
at the top edge of a purse or on the metal bars of a chair that is to be macrame.
2. Make a loop of cord over the top and back underneath.
3. Pass the loop over the top of the bar and back under the horizontal bar or ring.
4. Pass the ends of the rope through the loop and pull gently to snug the knot down.
2 Basic Macramé Knots
a) Square knots - the basics of macramé knot. It is made from a minimum of two working cords and
holding cords that can vary from one cord to as many as six cords.
b) Half Hitch - simple overhand knot, where the working end of a line is brought over and under the
standing part.
What Materials Are Needed for Making a Macramé Plant Hanger?
A DIY macramé plant hanger is a simple and easy project that requires a few materials that you can
pick up at your local craft store.
How to Make a Macramé Plant Hanger
1. Choose your macramé cord.
2. Cut your cord lengths.
3. Pick your knot.
4. Tie a series of knots.
5. Knot your knots together.
6. Secure your planter.
FOOD TRAY – a shallow platform designed for the carrying of items. It can be fashioned from
numerous materials, including silver, brass, sheet iron, paperboard, wood, melamine, and molded pulp as
well as in native materials such as vines/wicker basket.