P##f#SM #nING TW lk1%

FQR

No R

TeytiIe fibres;Yarn and b'zrn m anufacturing;

W eaving technology;Fabricstructure and design;SpeciaIw oven fabric production;
W eftand w arp knitting technology;Knitted fabric design;Specialknitfabric production;
Sw eaterknitting;
Dyeing,printing and finishing.

Engr.ShahAlimuzzaman BelalG ext.ATI.(U.K.)

Assistant Professor
College ofTextile Engineering and Technology
Dhaka,Bangladesh

Published by BM N3foundation
Dhaka,Bangladesh.
 TABLE O FCONTENTS

Contents Page no.

Introduction to textiles 002
Flow chartoftextile processing 003
004
Textile fibres
Propertiesoftextile fibres 004
Prim ary propertiesoftextilefibres 004
Secondary propertiesoftextilefibres 006
Classification oftextile fibres 011
Fibre identification O12
Burning test 012
Lightmicroscopytest 014
Chemicalsolubility test 018
021
Yarn and O21
Typesoffibres
yarn m anufaeturing Classification ofyarn 021
Typesofcottonyarn 024
Blowroom section 025
ProcessIayoutoftheyarn m anufacturing system
w ith a modern blowroom Iine 028
Carding section 030
Doubling and draw ing 030
Com bing section 032
SimplexorRovingfram e 034
Cotton spinningsystem 035
Spinning machine 36
Autoconer 039
Yarn conditioningand packing 040
Yarn num bering system 041
Definition 041
Typesofyarn count 041
Calculationsconcerning count 044
Form ulaeforcountconversion 046
Countcalculation and denotion forpIy yarn O47
Length calculation ofacone ofsew ing thread 050
Fanc# Yarns 051
Fancyyarn 051
Coloureffects 051
Structure effects 051
Lustre effects 052
Fabric and 053
Typesoffabric 053
Fabric m anufacturing
Fabricclassifitationataglanee 055
056
W oven fabrics and W oven fabries 057
W eaving technology Proeessflow to manufaduringwoven fabric 057
W eavingpreparation 057
W inding 058
W indingprocess 059
Tensiondevice 063
Typesofpackages 069
Pirnwinding 071
W inding machine 072
Precisionwinding 072
Problem 073
W arp preparation 074
W arping 074
DirectorHighspeedwarping 076
IndirectorSectionwarping 077
W arping machine 079
SizingorSlashing 083
Sizing machine 086
Drawing-in andTying-in 089
Fundamentalsofweaving 093
W eaving principle 093
Basicw eavingm otions 095
W arp Iet-off 095
W arpshedding 096
W eftinsertionorpicking 096
Yarnaccumulatorsorfeeders 098
Beat-up 100
Take-up 102
Auxiliaryweavingmotions 103
Fabricwidth 103
W eavingmachine orLoom 105
Shuttleweavingmachines 106
Shuttlelessweaving machines 107
Projectileweavingmachine 108
Rapierweaving machine 110
Airjetweavingmachine 111
Water-jetweavingmachine 113
M ultiphaseweaving machine 114
Fabricsel
vages 115
GreyfabricinspectionIines 117
Fabric structure 118
and design lntrodurtiontofabricstruetureanddesign 119
W oven fabricspecification 121
Fabricweightcalculation 121
Yarn consumption calculation 123
Partsofa complete desi gn 125
Drafting 129
System orclassi fication ofdrafting 131
Basicweavesofwovenfabric 134
Plain weave 135
M ain featuresofplainweave 135
Classification ofplain c10th 136
Derivativesofplainweave 137
Rib weave 138
M attweave 141
Ornam entation ofplain (10th 144
Twillw eave 146
Classification oftwillweave 147
Derivativesoftwillweave 153
Zig-zagtwillweave 154
Herringbonetwillweave 159
Diamond design 162
Diaperdesign 165
Brokentwillweave 167
Re-arranged twillweave 168
Stepped twillweave 173
Elongated twillweave 175
Com binedtwillweave 179
Shadedtwillweave 183
Advantagesand disadvantagesoftwill 186
Satin weave 187
Classificationofsatin weave 188
Construdion principle ofsatin weave 189
Derivativesofsatin weave 194
Crepeweaves 195
Corkscrew weaves 201
Shaded weaves 202
Fancy design orstructureoffabrits 205
Huckabackweaves 205
M ockIeno weaves 209
Honeycomb weave 211
Distorted thread e/ect 217
Cord weave 220
Spongeweave 227
 Colourand weave effects 229
Sim ple colourand weave effects 231
Com pound colourand weave effects 235
Figuringw ith extra threads 238
Com pound fabrics 241
Tubularc10th 241
Double width c10th 242
M ulti-plyfabrics 242
Stitched double cloths 244
Classification ofdouble c10th 244
Selection ofsuitable stitching positions 247
Construction principle 248
Selfstitchdouble c10th 248
W added double c10th 251
Centre stitch double c10th 253
Fabric used in apparelsector 256
Fabric based on plain weave 256
Fabric based ontwillweave 261
Othercom mercialfabrics 263
Fabricconstruction orspecification 265
spetialfabrit produd ion 267
Braid fabrics 268
M anufacturing principle 269
End uses 270
M ulticom ponentfabrics 271
Bonded fabrics 27 1
Lam inated fabrics 272
Quilted fabrics 273
Leno orGauze fabrics 277
W eaving principle and end uses 278
Lappetand Sw ivelfabrics 280
Lappetw eaving principle 280
Featuresofsw ivelw eave 281
Denim fabrics 283
Featuresand raw m ateriaisofdenim fabric 283
W arp preparation 285
W oven pile fabrics 288
W eftpile fabrics 288
W arp pilefabrics 292
The w ire m ethod 292
The doubIe-cloth orface-to-face m ethod 295
The slacktension pile orterryw eave 305
Flocked fabrics 313
Tufling:Tufted carpet 315
Knitted fabricsand
Knitting technology Introductionandhistoricalbackgroundofknitting 322
Generalterm srelated to knitting technology 326
M echanicalprinciplesofknittingtechnology 337
Basicelem entsofknitting 337
The need1es 337
The cam s 341
The sinkers 344
M ethodsofyarn feeding 345
M ethodsofform ingyarn into needle Ioops 346
Stitch form ation on bearded needles 347
Loop formation on Iatch needles 349
Knitting action ofcom pound needles 351
W eftknitting m achines 354
M ain featuresofa knitting m achine 354
Classification ofweftkni tting m achines 354
Flatknitting m achine 356
Circularkni tting m achine 358
Fabric m achine 361
Garment-length m achines 362
Single-jerseycircularknittingmachine 363
Rib circularknitting m achine 369
Interlock circularknitting m achine 377
Links-linksorPurlknitting m achine 380
Basicw eftknitted structures 383
The plain knitstructure orplain fabric 383
The rib structure orrib fabric 385
The purlknitstructure orpurlfabric 389
The interlockstructure orinterlock fabric 392
Com parison between basicstructures 394
Identificationofsingleand doublejersey 395
Basic Ioop orstitch types 396
The held loop 396
Thefloatstitch orIoop 398
Thetuck Ioop orstitch 403
The drop orpress-offstitch 411
Designsofw eftknitted fabrics 413
Ornamentationofsingle-jerseyfabric 413
Single-jerseyderivatives 414
Double-jerseyderivativesbasedon rib 421
Derivativesofinterlockstructure 427
W eftknittedjacquarddesign 437
Single-jerseyjacquard design 437
Double-jerseyjacquarddesign 441
 t.,,;
yy
l
))
%-
.

Sweaterknitting 446 )lt

'
t)
( .
Featuresofthesweaterknittingmachine 447 t
y
The manualsweaterknitting machine 448 tl@
<41
.

Productionofdifferentfabricsonsweater '
t
knitting machine 4s3 è
7
'

Theset-up 453 )
Tubularfabric 454
Singlebed fabric 455 è
Ribfabrics 456
Needle-bed racking 459 .
Stitchorlooptransferinweftknitting 461 j
The welt 477 @
'i
Garmentpanelseparation 480 )
Shaping during knitting 482 i
'
r
Shapeformation 483
Shaping orfashioningfrequenciescalculation 487
Linking operation 491
Knitted fabricfaults 494
Calculation relatedtoweftknitting 501
Knittingspeed and machinerpm 502
Speedfactororpedormance number 503
Production calculation 504
W eightperunitareaand coverfactor 5O9
Relationbeto yarn count& m achinegauge 511
Relationbetween yarn countand GSM 512
W arp knitting principle 514
lntroduction to warp knitted fabrics 514
The guides 515
The pattern mechanism 517
Chain finks 519
The warp beams 521
Lapping diagramsand chain notations 522
Basicstitchesin warp knitting 523
W arp knitting maehinery 531
Tricotwarp knitting machine 531
Raschelwarp kni tting machine 538
Two fully threaded guide barstructuresorfabrics 546
Spetialknitfabricproduction 553
Knitted pile fabrics 553
Fleece knitfabric 553
High pile knitfabricsorsliverknitfabrics 555
Plush fabricsorknitted terry fabrics 557
The crochetwarp knittingm achine 559
The straightbarframe 563
 Netting ornetfabrics 568
Lace fabrics 570
579
Nonw oven fabrics Raw m aterials 579
W eb form ation 580
W eb bonding 583
Finishing 588
Characteristics and uses ofnonw oven fabrics 589
Specialty nonw oven products 590
591
Textile dyeing,printing Preparatory processorpre-dyeing treatm ents 592
and finishing Singeing 593
Desizing and Scouring 594
Bleaching 595
M ercerizing 596
Heatsetting 598
Elasticfabric 599
W ashing 600
Drying 605
Dyeing 612
Preparation and dyeing m achinery 613
Autoclaves 615
W inch dyeing m achine 619
Jiggers 621
Dyestuffs 622
Printing 623
Printing principle 624
Printing processes 627
Functionalfinishing 630
M echanicalfinishing treatm ents 631
Chem icalfinishing treatm ents 640

Acknow ledgem ents

Gratefulacknowledgements are made to m any of my friends, colleagues and dear students

who have relentlessly encouraged me to writethiskind ofa bookand read differentchapterof
thisbook,given encouragementand very helpfulcriticism .
Specially,Iwould Iike to show a huge appreciation to my beloved wife Sumona and m y Iittle
girlsHafsa,Sumaia and Eusha.W i thout theirsupportand patience lwould never have been
abletofinish thiswork.