WAVE TRANSFORMATION

using DELFT3D - SWAN

Coastal Environmental Management - FALL2022

ENV 555 Course Project

Jasmine Tarek
Mohamed Ayman
Mayar Hatem

Under the supervision of:

Dr. Ramy Marmoush.
Eng. Mohamed El-Hadary & Eng. Mo’men AbdelTawab
Table of Contents
Introduction: ............................................................................................................................. 3
Objective: .................................................................................................................................. 3
Site location: .............................................................................................................................. 3
I. Wave propagation model “Delft3D-SWAN” .................................................................... 5
i. Wave grid geometry: ..................................................................................................... 5
ii. Wind and Wave Boundary conditions .........................................................................9
Results and Discussion: ........................................................................................................... 11
II. Detached breakwater design:.......................................................................................... 14
Results ......................................................................................................................................15
Detached breakwater design: ..............................................................................................15
Model results: .......................................................................................................................17
Data Validation ....................................................................................................................... 20
CONCLUSION ........................................................................................................................ 23
References ............................................................................................................................... 24

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List of Figures:
Figure 1:Selected site location ...................................................................................................4
Figure 2: Regional wave grid includes nested wave grids used for wave transformation
through a nesting technique. ................................................................................................... 5
Figure 3: Regional wave grid. ....................................................................................................6
Figure 4: Local wave grid. .........................................................................................................6
Figure 5: Local grid with the detached breakwater. ................................................................ 7
Figure 6: Interpolated bathymetric coverage over the regional grid area. .............................8
Figure 7: Interpolated bathymetric coverage over the local wave grid...................................8
Figure 8: The offshore wind rose based on ERA 5 Data. .........................................................9
Figure 9: The offshore wave rose based on ERA 5 Data. ....................................................... 10
Figure 10: Transformed wave field on Local model grid.(NNW direction) with maximum
wave height 3.5 m..................................................................................................................... 11
Figure 11:Transformed wave field on Regional model grid ( N direction) with maximum
wave height 2 m. ...................................................................................................................... 11
Figure 12:Transformed wave field on Regional model grid ( SW direction) with maximum
wave height 1.5 m .....................................................................................................................12
Figure 13: Transformed wave field on Regional model grid ( SSW direction) with maximum
wave height 1.8 m .....................................................................................................................12
Figure 14: Transformed wave field on the local model grid (WSW direction) with
maximum wave height 4 m ..................................................................................................... 13
Figure 15: Wave transformation types across the shore ......................................................... 13
Figure 16: Selected points for evaluating the breakwater parameters. ................................. 14
Figure 17: Main breakwater head design .................................................................................15
Figure 18: Main breakwater trunk design............................................................................... 16
Figure 19:Transformed wave field on Local model grid on First DBW configuration. ........ 18
Figure 20:Transformed wave field on Local model grid on Second DBW configuration. ... 19
Figure 21:Transformed wave field on Local model grid on Third DBW configuration. ....... 19
Figure 22:The monthly and yearly waves rose at Abu-Quir .................................................. 20
Figure 23: The Study model wave rose based on ERA 5 data. ................................................21
Figure 24:The Winter and Non-winter wave rose at Abu-Qir ba ......................................... 22
Figure 25: The Study model wave rose based on ERA 5 data. ............................................... 22

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Introduction:
One of the most important parts of any harbor is the navigation channel since it
facilitates the ships entry to enter the harbor. To keep the required depth of the channel,
routine maintenance is needed to remove sediment that has become lodged in the
navigation channel. The amount of silt in each harbor determines the maintenance
expenditures, which account for a sizeable portion of the harbor's revenue. Accordingly, the
sedimentation problem in the navigation channel is regarded as a major issue from an
economic and environmental perspective. This problem is dependent on the geometry of
the navigation channel, hydrodynamic parameters, and protection structures.
Sedimentation is accelerated by channel improvements such as deepening or enlarging. In
spite of the presence of protective structures, sedimentation still occur due to the improper
design. Numerous approaches have been put forth to reduce sediment volume, including
modifying the angle of the channel and using open cycle pumping systems or building one-
way sand traps. The most practical solution, however, is thought to be the extension of
current breakwaters or the use of additional structures because they are permanent, useful
options, and don't require ongoing expenses.

Objective:
The aim of the study is the determination of the parameters influencing the design
of the harbor including hydrodynamics, channel geometry, and protective structures.
Geometric channel characteristics including depth, width, orientation, and length are
influenced by the size of the ships that use the channel as well as the requirements of the
harbor. As for the hydrodynamics, complete analysis for wind, tide and waves shall be
conducted as it varies from one location to another.

Site location:
In accordance to the vision of developing a new chain of ports along the northern
coast, the project location was selected. It is proposed that the port will be executed in
accordance with the most up-to-date technological systems and the highest international
standards for the development and operation of ports. Moreover, the target is to elevate the
global categorization of Egyptian ports to the first category. Figure 1, represent the site
location, it is located 33.7 km away from shoreline with coordinate of (31°30' N, 30° 0' E).

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Figure 1:Selected site location

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I. Wave propagation model “Delft3D-SWAN”
In order to determine the influence of waves and its transformation from offshore
to nearshore taking into account the wind condition, Delft3D-SWAN (Simulating waves
Nearshore) wave model was used. SWAN is a third-generation spectral wave model that
models the following processes while simulating the transformation of random directional
waves including wave shoaling, refraction, diffraction, depth induced breaking, and wind-
induced wave growth. Coastal wave modelling frequently involves the usage of the SWAN
model, which has undergone significant validation.

I. WAVE GRID GEOMETRY:

A nesting approach was used to create the Delft3D-SWAN wave grid in order to simulate
the wave transition from offshore to nearshore regions close to the port. In order to
accurately represent deep-water waves, a regional grid was expanded by around 10 km
offshore where the boundaries are at depths ensuring the presence of deep-water waves.
The regional grid has a resolution of 40 m x 40 m. Using two grids for applying the nesting
approach to transform wave data from the regional grid to the Local grid which covers the
port area. This local grid has a resolution of 10 m x 10 m and extended to 2 km nearshore to
give sufficient grid cell coverage at the port's entrance's narrowest section.

Figure 2: Regional wave grid includes nested wave grids used for wave transformation
through a nesting technique.

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Figure 3: Regional wave grid.

Figure 4: Local wave grid.

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 Figure 5: Local grid with the detached breakwater.

In order to create the model bathymetry, two separate data sources were used. The GEBCO-
2022 bathymetric dataset, which offers coverage at each 8-m distance point, formed the
basis for the Regional grid coverage. The 2nd wave grid was supplied with the Navionics
data set to ensure the near-shore water depths by more accurate contour lines. The
bathymetric datasets were interpolated using a triangular interpolation approach on the
first through second nested wave grid levels.

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Figure 6: Interpolated bathymetric coverage over the regional grid area.

Figure 7: Interpolated bathymetric coverage over the local wave grid.

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 II. WIND AND WAVE BOUNDARY CONDITIONS
For the purpose of facilitating the transmission of swell waves, wave boundaries
were positioned at the grid's northern, southern, and western borders. On the basis of a 3-
year record between 2020 and 2022, the offshore wind and wave climates were retrieved
from the ERA 5 DATA at the model boundaries. Wind and wave roses were created by
analyzing and extrapolating the data. The generated wave and wind rose are similar to
findings in the literature in this place (near to Abu-Quir). The result of the Wind and wave
rose indicating that the dominant direction is the NW.

Figure 8: The offshore wind rose based on ERA 5 Data.

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Figure 9: The offshore wave rose based on ERA 5 Data.

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Results and Discussion:

Figure 10: Transformed wave field on Local model grid.(NNW direction) with maximum
wave height 3.5 m

Figure 11:Transformed wave field on Regional model grid ( N direction) with maximum wave
height 2 m.

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Figure 12:Transformed wave field on Regional model grid ( SW direction) with maximum
wave height 1.5 m

Figure 13: Transformed wave field on Regional model grid ( SSW direction) with maximum
wave height 1.8 m

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Figure 14: Transformed wave field on the local model grid (WSW direction) with maximum
wave height 4 m

Figure 15: Wave transformation types across the shore

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II. Detached breakwater design:
As it was previously mentioned, the defensive structures are vital in the construction of
ports. Not only does it reduce the intensity of the upcoming waves, but it also governs the
movement of sediments. Thus it was essential to design breakwater for the target location.
First, a preliminary design was conducted that includes 1 main breakwater and a side one to
gather an oversight of the significant wave periods and heights. The data were gathered
from 4 points main head and trunk and the side head and trunk, table 1. Then the breaking
criteria was evaluated so that the design wave height can be selected. accordingly, all waves
were determined to be of non-breaking conditions.

Figure 16: Selected points for evaluating the breakwater parameters.

Table 1: Breakwater parameters

Breakwater parameter Wave period (S) Wave height (m) Water depth (m)
Main Head 12.2 2.6 5.6
Trunk 12.2 1.2 2
Side Head 12.2 2.1 4.2
Trunk 12.2 1 1.6

Design assumptions:
1. The armor unit material is quarry stone with slope of 1.5:1
2. The damage coefficient for the Head and Trunk is 3.2 and 4, respectively.
3. The number of armor layer is assumed to be 2.
4. The layer coefficient of armor was 1.15.
5. Crest level is the sum of the run up and the high tide.

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6. The high tidal range in the area is 0.5 m.

As for the configuration of the breakwater which includes the length, bending angle,
distance between the opening of the main and side breakwater, 3 designs were
conducted so that the optimal case can be obtained. The optimal configuration is
determined on the basis of the best one in reducing the significance of the upcoming
wave, reduces the effects of the wave transformation and still has the capability to
exchange water with the surrounding.

Results
DETACHED BREAKWATER DESIGN:
Based upon the design criteria the following designs were obtained. The figures include the
width and elevation of top crest, toe width and height, the weight of each layer, and the
diameter of each component.

For the main breakwater head,

Figure 17: Main breakwater head design

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For the main breakwater trunk:

Figure 18: Main breakwater trunk design

Designing the DBW based on the model results.

Long Head Design for BW.

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MODEL RESULTS:
After determining the characteristics of the model result, the design of the coastline
protection considered the resultant wave climate at the chosen point. For the heads and
trunks of the two Detached Breakwater (DBW)

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Figure 19:Transformed wave field on Local model grid on First DBW configuration.

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Figure 20:Transformed wave field on Local model grid on Second DBW configuration.

Figure 21:Transformed wave field on Local model grid on Third DBW configuration.

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Data Validation
According to M. G. Nafaa, A. M. Fanos, and M. A. Elganainy:

The wave climate was measured between 1971 and 1987 at Abu Quir Bay (Figure X). During
this period, 37 months of wave records have been obtained. The wave climate study off Abu
Quir, Egypt, has provided some insight into obtaining the wave characteristics from
directional spectra in shallow water:

• The maximum wave height is 4.00 m in winter, 3.50 m in spring, and 2.50 m during
summer.

• The average wave period is between 7-8 sec. for all seasons reaching 14 sec. as the
maximum in winter and 13 sec. in spring and summer.

• The predominant direction of the waves is WNW-NW, while a small number of

waves are coming from the NNE-NE sector.

Figure 22:The monthly and yearly waves rose at Abu-Quir

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 Figure 23: The Study model wave rose based on ERA 5 data.

Comparing the two figures it found that the data obtained by the study is similar to the
reference data which validates the study results. Also According to Frihy: Comparing our
results with Abu-Quir data we found that in the research the wave rose and parameters for
the wave height and time period are indicated below:

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Figure 24:The Winter and Non-winter wave rose at Abu-Qir ba

Figure 25: The Study model wave rose based on ERA 5 data.

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Comparing the two figures it found that the data obtained by the study is similar to the
reference data which validates the study results.

Figure 26: The result parameters in different locations of the Egyptian North Coast.

CONCLUSION
For the proposed Port construction, numerical models were used to simulate
different design conditions and variables. The model's primary considerations were offshore
wave transformation for the port's breakwaters and hydro-morpho dynamics surrounding
the planned port after construction. The wave transformed direction was dominated by the
NW direction with a max wave height of 4 m and Tp at 12.2 sec.

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 References

Nafaa, M. G., Fanos, A. M., & Elganainy, M. A. (1991). Characteristics of waves off the
Mediterranean coast of Egypt. Journal of Coastal Research, 665-676.

Frihy, O. E., Deabes, E. A., & El Gindy, A. A. (2010). Wave climate and nearshore processes
on the Mediterranean coast of Egypt. Journal of coastal research, 26(1), 103-112.

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