Arduino Drone Quadcopter 3D Printed
Arduino Drone Quadcopter 3D Printed
Arduino Drone Quadcopter 3D Printed
by Nikus
Some time ago (over 8 months) I was thinking about DIY bike tachometer (speedometer)
what I can build. I wanted to make an interesting
robot/device that will be challenge for me and will Very Simple Robot for Beginners
encourage me to learn new things. I thought about
the lot of robots but a lot of them were posted on the But if you really want to make it, you should try, I am
internet. And i thought about making a drone always here to help you.
completly by myself, including ight controller, pilot,
program and frame design. This is by far the longest My a p e l t o yo u! : )
build i have made, it takes a lot of time and e ort to I am participate in contests right here on
make it but naly after over 8 months it's ready and i instructables. In one of them (microcontroller contest)
am here to share it with you as completly open source there is macbook air as a grand prize. It could help me
project. with calibrating PID for my drone because right now I
haven't any laptop that I can go outside with so there
I just started my f a ce bo o k f a npa g e ! If you want to is no way to calibrate it perfectly. I am also working on
see what I am making, be up to date with my projects an app with my friend we want to publish it before
or need some help feel free to like it, thanks! holidays. We have a very very good idea for it and it
can be very popular, I can't tell you what is it I can just
He re is link t o v ide o if y o u us e a n a pp tell you name of it - Socialize. We are nishing android
version of this app. As you may know to make an
Inf o f o r be g g ine rs : iphone app you need t have apple computer. We
haven't one and we haven't money for it :( So it will
This project is not the simple one. You need some also help me with developing IOS version of our map
basic knwoledge of arduino programming, PCB's and that I will inform you about shortly. If you want to
electronics to make it. If you haven'y done anything vote for my project you can do it by clicking vote! in
like that before I advise you to start with something upper right corner and then selecting contest in
simpler like: which you want vote for me. Thanks everyone! :D
For some reasons and because of my friend lukmar I named my drone Ludwik. And Ludwik took part in
International robotic tournament in Rybnik in Poland and it won rst place in freestyle category! I even print for
this contest like this label with Ludwik dron :) Above is the photo from this contest.
For this project we need a lot of parts, because it is actually a little bit complicated. The overall cost of them is about
$200 not so much for a drone, but it's because we create a ight controller and pilot by ourselfes. Here is complete
list with links to parts that I bought from di erent suppliers:
Motors - I just bought the cheapest one, that works easily for this kind of drone.
ESC's - depends on motors that you choose max current of ESC should be a little bit bigger than max
current of motor. It must have BEC because the ight controller is powered by it. We will also 4 of
them.
Battery - 3S (11.1V) Li-Po should be around 3000mAh to get 15 mins of ight time. Make sure that it
can deliver enough current.
Frame - at the beginning it was 3D printed and in the feature, it will be, but for now I used very
popular F450 frame.
LiPo charger - you must charge lipo batteries with a special charger with a balancer. Remember to
choose right power plug
Propellers - can be di erent but this one works the best. I advise you to buy some more, they are easy
to break. They need to have a hole not thread. You choose some other color if you want
Battery protection/monitor - never connect battery to anything without it, I destroyed 2 Lipo's
because I forgot about it
NRF24L01 - radio modul, we need it to create radio communication, remember to buy version with
external antena because it has much bigger range
Atmega328 - I advise you to buy it in local shop
Joysticks - 2 of them
Some smaller parts:
capacitors 22pF (x2)
capacitor 10uF (x2)
resistor 4,7kOhm
3,3V linear stabilizer
LED diode
The rst thing to do was protyping, to check how cables on the top.
everything works and if circuits are good connected. I
screwed up arduino UNO to drone frame and On one of those photos you can see red cable with
mounted mpu6050 in breadboard which was xed to black tape on it, guess what is this :) it's some kind of
frame with double sided tape. "Pilot" which was equal kill switch which just cut o power for arduino board.
to potentiometer in breadboard wired with 5m long
cables to my drone. At this point I created the world's This frame for testing a drone is made out of wood
rst wire drone :) After testing, in my wooden frame, just to hold it in place and let it rotate on one axis,
outdoor tests and some changes in connections thats all.
design I created eagle schematic and then PCB. Above
you can see some photos of my drone with a lot of
Fl i g ht c o n t r o l l e r
This code isn't as hard as you can think. It just use 3 PID algorithms for stabilizng it in 3 axis (x, y, z also cold pitch,
yaw and roll), code for getting angles from mpu6050's DMP (digital motion processing), and also handle radio
receiving and some basic math to calculate data received by radio. It stabilize itself at 100 times a second (100Hz)
that's enaugh for this drone.
PID a lg o rit hm s :
There are a lot of great explonations of how PID works, and because I not a good teatcher I woldn't try to explain
how it works. I use those values for PID bcause after lot's of test I nd them best one, but they still can be better, Kd
is much to big. I am not the PID tune expert and I have never done it on any other drone then this. For di erent
motors, propellers, frame this value can be di erent. If you will nd better one send them to me and I will test it on
my drone.
M PU6 0 50 :
This code is just copied from MPU6050 library. I wanted to write my own, faster library for it but I couldn't nd any
good datasheet of it and I was to laz y :) If there is ready library which works ne (but could be faster) why not to use
it?
NRF24 L0 1
Here are just few lines to receive array of 8 bit numbers from pilot and convert it to throttle and rotation on x, y and
z axis. You can also add more values and using them turn on lights on drone or anything you like.
Pilot
Code for pilot is straight forward. Just reads joystick values and send them over NRF24L01 that's all, nothing
complicated. Radio speed is reduced to increase range.
}
}
// Serial.println(data[1]);
if(done == true){
last_received = millis();
}
}
}</p><p> if((millis()-last_received) > 3000 && allmotors_power > 0){
safe_lock = 0;
}
motor1_power = allmotors_power;
motor2_power = allmotors_power;
motor3_power = allmotors_power;
motor4_power = allmotors_power;
if(allmotors_power > 1500){
allmotors_power = 1500;
}</p><p>
x_output = calculatePID(0, x_rotation);
y_output = calculatePID(1, y_rotation);
z_output = calculatePID(2, z_rotation);</p><p> motor1_power += x_output/2;
motor1_power += z_output;
motor4_power -= x_output/2;
motor4_power += z_output;</p><p> motor2_power -= y_output/2;
motor2_power -= z_output;
motor3_power += y_output/2;
motor3_power -= z_output;
motor1.writeMicroseconds(motor1_power);
motor4.writeMicroseconds(motor4_power);
motor2.writeMicroseconds(motor2_power);
motor3.writeMicroseconds(motor3_power);
mpu.resetFIFO();
}else{
motor1.write(0);
motor2.write(0);
motor3.write(0);
motor4.write(0);
}
}
}</p><p> float calculatePID(int _axis, float _angel){</p><p> // X AXIS
if(_axis == 0){
x_now = millis();
x_timechange = x_now - x_lasttime;
x_error = x_setpoint - _angel;
x_p_out = (x_kp * x_error);
}</p>
}
}
}</p><p>int power = map(analogRead(A2), 0, 1023, 0, 255);
int x = map(analogRead(A1), 0, 1023, 0, 255);
int y = map(analogRead(A0), 0, 1023, 0, 255);
int rotation = map(analogRead(A3), 0, 1023, 0, 255);</p><p>if(x > 150){
x = map(x, 150, 255, 0, MAX_TILT);
}else if(x < 105){
x = map(x, 105, 0, 0, -MAX_TILT);
}else{
x = 0;
}</p><p>if(y > 150){
y = map(y, 150, 255, 0, MAX_TILT);
}else if(y < 105){
y = map(y, 105, 0, 0, -MAX_TILT);
}else{
y = 0;
}</p><p>if(rotation > 150){
rotation = map(rotation, 150, 255, 0, MAX_TILT);
}else if(rotation < 105){
rotation = map(rotation, 105, 0, 0, -MAX_TILT);
}else{
rotation = 0;
}</p><p> data[0] = controll_number;
data[1] = power;</p><p> // + 10 because you can't send negative number
data[2] = x + MAX_TILT;
data[3] = y + MAX_TILT;
data[4] = rotation + MAX_TILT;
data[5] = safe_lock;</p><p>radio.write( data, sizeof(data) );</p><p> delay(8);
}</p>
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FES/W4M3/J1MEPR6B/FESW4M3J1MEPR6B.zip
…
Right there you can nd all les including .brd, .sch I also made a power distribution board and it was
and .pdf for printing. And some photos of how I made used on 3D printed version of my drone, but right
them. Traces are very small so the board is not so easy now I am not using it since frame that I bought have
to make. There are not a lot to write about so just power distribution board build in to the frame.
enjoy the photos and les :)
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F5X/IE6A/J1GP86MG/F5XIE6AJ1GP86MG.brd
…
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F5N/88CX/J1GP86NP/F5N88CXJ1GP86NP.sch
…
Step 8: Pilot
Quick story of pilot. The rst version of it was make PCB for it. And thats the nal version, max size
potentiometer on a breadboard as I mentioned earlier. of PCB in free eagle version to make it more handy.
It was connected to drone with 5 meters long cables. Looks pretty good, works perfectly. I added right
Then I build real wireless pilot on breadboard with there 2 switches for eventual light switching or maybe
arduino pro mini, two joysticks and battery. Work's even some kind of thrower :) Schematic, PCB and
great but this mess with cables are so bad. So while I program for it you can nd in previous steps.
was waiting for my frame I decided to design and
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FFX/GG87/J1GP87GN/FFXGG87J1GP87GN.pdf
…
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FDW/CUFW/J1GP87OP/FDWCUFWJ1GP87OP.sch
…
This is my 3D printed frame for my drone it's bad, To design all of those parts I used fusion360 in my
don't print it. I just put it right there to show you how opinion the best 3D designing software. You can
I made it, how it looks like and how you shouldn't check it out here. I also recommend you to watch
design a frame for a drone. Printing time all parts for fusion360's youtube channel there are a lot of great
this frame is about 13 hours. I broke 7 part of it and tutorials, updates and usefull tips.
after that I decided to give up at this point with this
frame and buy one. I prefered to focus on my I also broke down 2 Li-Po batteries :(
program and then when I nish it completly I will
design comletly new frame, that will be stronger and
smaller (this one is actually a little to big).
View in 3D Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FTN/YPZ1/J1GP884T/FTNYPZ1J1GP884T.stl
…
Because some parts that were 3D printed are usefull I put .stl les here if you like to print them out. There is just
antena holder for ight controller (you need to drill new hole in PCB just don't drill through traces) and holder for
PCB of ight controller. I put a small like sponge under this holder to limit vibrations and srcew it down with M3
screws.
View in 3D Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FQG/CX02/J1GP87PQ/FQGCX02J1GP87PQ.stl
…
View in 3D Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/FEO/AW11/J1GP87UP/FEOAW11J1GP87UP.stl
…
There are some photos and quick explonation of how front motor and rear right must be soldered in the
to assemble all parts of drone. First of all you have to same way. Right front and rear left must be
assemble the frame, there are 4 arms and 2 main connected in the same way but you have to swap 2
plates it's very simple. After that you can mount your phases of motor. I mount ESC to frame with zip tie.
brushless motor on frame. Use 4 short screws to Remember to tight propellers very strongly, it is very
mount them on the arms (screws can't be too long usefull to use tiny screwdriver for it.
because they can damage colis of the motor). Then
you can solder ESC to the motor. Remember that left
I spent most time of making it on this stage. It was happens when number go in nitly down? At some
endless code changing, testing, code changing point in to goes from max minus to max plus and
testing and so on. Above you can see some photos of then my drone has turned their motors with full
it. One time when I test stabilization and I added piece throttle it goes up with this frame hit my door and
of code to decrement throttle continously to make it wall and fall. I was on the opposit side. It was so close
landing softly after radio disconnection (right now I to hit me. And that's the reason that I wear ski helmet
know that it is impossible without barometer or GPS). I during rest of tests :)
forgot to add in this code protection at some level to
don't let the number in nitly down. And what
Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F1S/ML3J/J1GP87RU/F1SML3JJ1GP87RU.pdf
…
View in 3D Download
https://www.instructables.com/ORIG/F53/9PBO/J1GP87WS/F539PBOJ1GP87WS.stl
…
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQPY4mWkHNU
So as I said this is the (not) nal version. For now I will If you have any questions just ask in the comments,
nish this build (Last thing to do is PID calibrating). I on my mail or on my new f a ce bo o k f a npa g e ! I am
just want to go for some other builds and learning here to help you. You can also write what you think
new things. But if you want you can help me with this about this project or how to improve it.
project, we can work together on it to make the best,
the simplest arduino drone that anyone can make. If Thanks for reading don't forget to follow me on
you have build my project send me some photos of it instructables, on facebook and on youtube.
on ma mail ([email protected]) or in the
comments bellow. Have a nice day everyone!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDB7qasURs4
Hi .. i want to ask you about the black wire that connecting bettween nrf module and its antenna??
Did it come with the module ?? Or you added it ??
Great project. Can I ask why you just didn't use the opensource Arducopter for the code? It would
have saved you some damage. http://ardupilot.org Plenty of support from this community for the
code.
I have 3d orinted your design and made a quad copter. Currently i am facing problem in gyro +
accelerometer sensor MPU6050, in this roll pitch angles are changing because of motor vibration.
What should i do??
am new to coding, can someone help me please?
Hi, be sure you putted in the folder where the source file is, everything that came in the
ludwik_drone_flight_controller zip file. If the arduino IDE is asking you to open the file in a separate
folder, then rename the folder exatly the same as the source file (.ino) without the (.ino) extension
and put the files in this folder.
You may have a folder called "ludwik_drone_flight_controller", inside this folder another one with
the name of the source file without the .ino, "quadcopter_stabilization_2" and inside this last folder
all the header files and cpp files that came in the zip file.
In add be sure to delete in the library folder all the rf24 libraries (make sure before that you have a
copy of them) and unzip the one from here: https://github.com/maniacbug/RF24.
If after you did this the code still does not compile, then go to the libraries folder in your
documents/arduino folder, create a new folder called LUDWIK_DRONE and put inside this folder
all the files that came in the "ludwik_drone_flight_controller" zip file except the .ino file.
Now it may compile without any problem.
Arduino Drone | Quadcopter (3D Printed): Page 25
Greets.
Hi Nikus,
Page not found in your ( https://github.com/maniacbug/RF24. )
Please help.
Hi, sorry but for reasons I do not understand the period was inserted as a part of the web link...
Here you have a clean and tested one:
https://github.com/maniacbug/RF24
Greets.
PD: If it does not work neither, copy the link and search it on google, it will appear for sure.
Does anyone know what Arduino I should use for the quadcopter?
You can use Arduino UNO. It's both effective and cheap.
Thanks for sharing your project. I would like to only use one or two motors to test a control circuit.
Could you help me with a schematic and code on how to do that.
Bro very amazing.
Good job!
I can't compile this code.This error is showed.Please help me to fix it
Have you tried using ARM Coretex M4? It has several advantages over the ATmega such as
higher clock speeds and hardware division. There is an Arduino core for them now and some really
nice dev boards
no, I don't. Maybe in the second version I will use it, but because of the speed of mpu, there
wouldn't be a huge difference in stability
Recently I just picked up an ST-LINK and a couple of "Black Pill" boards. The core still needs a
little work though there are issues uploading the code over USB if the dev board doesn't have the
hardware reset resistors. I think that it can be fixed in software but I got a little hung up trying to
trace it back to where it asserts.
I'm sorry to see this project so late and not being able to vote for. Anyone who has built a quad
from scratch knows very well the amount of hours you may have dedicated to this project. In my
view, your effort deserves my solid recognition. I can't vote but I wanted to share it with you.
Congratulations!
thanks man! awesome to hear that :) I actually really wanted to win a MacBook with this project to
improve it and calibrate PID algorithms. Fortunately I won a MacBook with my voice controlled
lamp so I will improve this project, and maybe create a Ludwik drone V2. Thanks for your comment
;)
Nieśmiertelna karteczka "nie tykać" znów namierzona. Witam ponownie i gratuluję. Nie jestem
przekonany czy elementy drukowane 3D to najlepszy pomysł do drona, ale cała reszta miażdży !!!
Code is the same no matter if you use Arduino board or my won controller. Make sure that you
download a .zip file, copying just .ino file wouldn't work because you need additional files and
libraries that are included in .zip
Thx for your reply.I add all libraries and try to copmile the code but still can't compile it.after i add
libraries my early error was gone but a new error showed up.A picture of the error is in below.
Please help me to fix this error.
Nice work. It seemed that you won 3rd price, but I think that you deserve the Grand Price. Thanks
for sharing, your programming way of the PID control made me understand it. Keep on working
and fly safety!!!.
PD: Laws are not so hard for nearly a toy with a 400 meters range. Only take special care near
airports, inform the tower, and if you are going to use FPV mode, for privacy reasons. Observe
safety instructions and have fun!!!
For people that have several compilation problems, the source of them could be the rf24 library
version. Use this one Ludwik wrote below: https://github.com/maniacbug/RF24.
Thank you!
i build this one, but my serial monitor cant receive data from transmitter,can you help me please?
I don't really understand all what you wrote but I enjoy it very much. thanks you
I'm going to have to throw my hat in the ring and disagree with this as well as it pertains to the
United States (I can't reliably address other areas); addressing the points:
1. This drone would not be illegal to fly in the USA, provided it meets the FAA requirements for
drones (https://www.faa.gov/uas/) - note the recent court ruling (May 19, 2017 - U.S. Court of
Appeals for the District of Columbia Circuit in Taylor v. Huerta). The summary here basically reads
"Owners of model aircraft which are operated in compliance with section 336 are not required to
register. Owners of all other small unmanned aircraft, including newly-purchased unmanned
aircraft not operated exclusively in compliance with section 336, remain subject to the registration
requirement."
Section 336 basically says that if the model aircraft (drone) is for hobby or recreational purposes (ie
- non-commercial usage), and weighs less than 55 lbs (~25 kg), and does not interfere with actual
full-size aircraft, and is flown in compliance with a community-based national organization (like the
Academy of Model Aeronautics here in the USA) - you're a-ok to fly.
Also - if you fly near an airport (within 5 miles), you have to give notice to the tower/airport in some
particular manner (read it for clarification).
But basically, that's it. The part about being in compliance with an organization like the AMA
(essentially being a member and following their bylaws) is there for the insurance purposes the
AMA provides, along with other guidance and such. The AMA rules are basically similar, though
(http://www.modelaircraft.org/files/105.pdf). Getting a membership with them is cheap insurance
(literally) in the event of a problem, futhermore, it opens up the ability to use their various flying
fields around the country.
Section 336, though, is much better (and you can thank orgs like the AMA for that, which helped to
fight for this) than what the FAA had before. IIRC, section 336 was the original wording, then the
FAA changed it, required registration (not of the drone - of yourself - because you could only get a
single number for all of your drones!) if the weight of it went over a certain amount (half a kilogram
IIRC), and more. This was challenged, fought, and ultimately found untenable by the courts and
struck down.
2. The Arduino is based on the Atmel ATMega328P microcontroller - it is a part of a family of
microcontroller produced by that company (the ATMega family). It is not "hobbyist grade" - it is a
commercially available microcontroller family used in many commercial and medical-grade
products (I know for a fact that it is used by some electric power chair manufacturers for their
controllers - and they have to go thru a whole host of certification as medical devices).
The microcontroller itself is not the issue here, but rather how the system is designed both
mechanically, electronically, and how the software integrates the two. If there are any faults with
any of these parts, then things could fail. It is up to the hobbyist building such a drone to do his or
her best to make sure that in the event of a failure, the drone can land as safely as possible. Note,
though, that nothing can rescue a drone should a propeller shatter or a motor dies or similar - that
drone is falling out of the sky. So in such a case, not flying over people is most prudent.
3. Again, I can't speak toward Europe or the UK - but I believe I have addressed everything per the
United States above. While at one time (prior to May 2017) the United States (via the FAA) had a
regulation in place for a short time that limited drones and required registration, that law is no
longer in effect.
I should also note a couple of other things. First, when the FAA law was in effect, it did lead to
something interesting: Smaller drones. Very small drones, including ones with FPV (first person
Arduino Drone | Quadcopter (3D Printed): Page 28
view) for fun and racing, which could be easily flown indoors (the FAA law didn't really address
indoor vs outdoor flying - section 336 doesn't address this either; both mainly because no one
could envision such a thing!). It's probably safe to say that if you fly indoors in a private setting, the
FAA laws/rules don't apply. But you're going to be limited on drone size simply because flying
larger drones indoors can be very challenging. If you do decide to do so, keep in mind the people
aspect; even small drones can cause injury and damage.
Secondly, note that things change a lot if you plan to do anything commercially with a drone.
Section 336 will not apply if you decide to use your drone to make money or otherwise operate in a
commercial (non-hobby or non-recreational) manner. Should you get caught (note that's a big if - it
isn't like there are drone police running around, and the actual cops have better things to do that
police this kind of stuff) - things could get very hairy quickly. If you are serious about something like
this (like flying to sell aerial footage, photos, surveying, etc) - it would be best to look into the laws
(perhaps consult a lawyer even) and what you should do to stay "legal". You will likely have to
register the drone with the FAA, and have private insurance in case of accidents.
Lastly - section 336 aside - as long as you aren't flying your drone like an a**hole and practicing
some kind of restraint and safety, you shouldn't have any problems at all. Use common sense:
Don't fly over people, don't fly near airports, don't fly near or on AMA flying fields if you don't have
an AMA membership (unless you have a waiver or something from the local chapter), don't fly low
over private property unless you have clearance from the owner (note that I put the "low" in there -
basically, fly high enough to avoid disturbing the owners of the property - that'll be upwards of 200
feet or so, maybe a bit higher depending on the size of the drone - still, you are on your own here,
and some people are definitely crazy and will try to shoot your drone down, because they believe
bullets that miss won't hurt anyone, but "that durn drone is trying to peek in ther winders").
Ultimately when it comes to drones or any other kind of hobbyist R/C devices (airplanes,
helicopters, cars, you name it) - just be kind, courteous, respectful, and as safe as you possibly
can as an operator, and comply with what few laws actually do exist. One of the greater ones (and
I haven't read this instructable fully) is on what you use for a radio: Make sure it is legal to use for
your R/C class (aircraft vs ground/water craft) and jurisdiction (in the USA, that would be what the
FCC considers legal). Certain frequencies that may be legal in Europe (for instance, since this
instructable is from a hobbyist in/near Poland if I am reading things right) that aren't in the USA and
vice-versa. If in doubt, do your research. That said, 2.4 GHz spread-spectrum controllers have
pretty much made that issue moot; as far as I know, they are legal worldwide. Also, using wifi for
control shouldn't be an issue either for similar reasons. Using cellular phone service for control,
though, may prove to be problematic, and a lot of research should be done (I am not sure what, if
any laws, apply to such use). Basically, there are a lot of onerous laws regarding radio frequencies,
and when you stray outside of the usage and guidelines set aside by the FCC for hobbyist R/C
usage, things get tricky and problematic quickly. At a certain point, you may want to consult your
local chapter of the ARRL (http://www.arrl.org/) for guidance.
I hope this reply gives people a little more confidence and guidance on what they can and cannot
do with a hobby drone. I know it is confusing and difficult to keep up with the changing laws, but it
must be done and understood. Happy flying, everyone!
is the joystick module 2 axis?
Yes that´s correct. Always are some people that don´t think on global safety.
But I think sellers and/or companies making mostly drones with
legislation. Fly time is limited to approx to 15 min and weight to 700 grams. Because kids don´t
know much about laws. I think we must have some driver license like for a car, when we want
bigger drones for example, taking a movie or so.
Everybody from RC people know, that is a market regulated principles for making good business of
selling drones. USA & EU don´t want to people stay creative and productive anymore. Even know
more as they do. Only a staying like a sheep.
Arduino Drone | Quadcopter (3D Printed): Page 29
I've flown RC since '89 and had my AMA card that entire time, so I appreciate your need to protect
the hobby, however your facts are plain wrong. The FAA regulations (at least in the US) are based
on what the drone/quad is doing (height, line of sight, range to other aircraft etc.) and not how and
what it is made of. If you think the "off the shelf" drones are pre-qualified or any less flawed, then
look up "drone flyaway" on YouTube. There is not a commercial drone available that hasn't fallen
out of the sky.
Nobody can say hasn´t fallen out of the sky.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p9T6-KPFRq8
Are there protection for this frame to protect the propellers from hitting walls or something?
Thank you very much,
Paulo
It is always good to estimate the risks in flying, just like in any other form of traffic: privacy
issues/general disturbance, safety threats to people/animals and also material damage.
Regulations do vary from country to country, even inside Europe. There is no EU wide regulation at
the moment. In Finland we have very little obstacles for hobby flying. Keep it below 150 meters and
obey the flight restriction zones (like military, airports). It is legal to fly even over densely populated
areas.
If I was testing my own flight controller, I'd have the drone anchored somehow or have a redundant
method of automatically shutting it down in case of out-of-control state. Some tests can be done
wihhout propellers, moving the drone manually and observing the reactions.
Legislation is one way into looking at things, but regardless of it, the drone builders must try to
keep it safe, though the development testing isn't standardized and controlled. When the
developers and other flyers play it fair, it keeps the hobby in green light, so to say.
I'm actually waiting for (free) registration for all drones, but that could come with lots of technical
problems. Firstly, what is the registration for? Does it include technical inspection or is it a tax or
just an ID? How to register your DIY drone? Thinking along brings up these questions. Who
monitors the registration or acts upon incidents with registered drones? At first I'd go with legal ID
and a "register plate" so that if a registered drone is found after hitting, say, a car, the owner can be
reached. What ever the future brongs, I'm afraid there will always be people who don't know or
don't care, as well as malfunctioning gear. It is not that grim after all, people get killed on bicycles,
and we cannot get helmets in the law.
I have implemented method to shut drone down after loosing connection or just turning off the
transmitter so if my drone will do something wrong I can just shut down the remote and it will fall
instantly.
Very good idea, but of course as SamiJ13 says lakes are a bit bad then. Maybe a failsafe
mechanism with a recorded GPS location.
Congratulations! I'm thinking of making a drone one of these days.
That can be good for testing, but I would not want that in finished product. Transmission could be
disrupted by transmitter falling from your hands etc. Not nice if the drone shuts down. But I
understand it is hard to implement something safe and sure. I'm thinking now about lakes. How to
equip my drone to prevent it from sinking in case it goes to water :)
Hi,How to decide Gyro and Accelerometer offsett
You have to lay it flat on the ground (perfectly leveled ground) and then values that you will se on
serial port will be your offset.