Ghats Varanasi
Ghats Varanasi
Ghats Varanasi
by
MAHESH B. SENAGALA
A Master's Thesis
MASTER OF ARCHITECTURE
Manhattan, KS 66502
1994
Approved by
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_TLI ABSTRACT
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S(-1(. The manifest form of any given city is a function of human efforts to find meaning in life, and to satiate the other
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innate impulses. It is the understanding of those impulses that determines the meaning of human existence and the form
of a city. Rational thought with legitimate beginnings would always lead one away from the neurotic clinging to the city
as a source of existential security. The thesis proposes that the city of Banaras survives on and supports the irrational and
The first part of the thesis is predominantly a description of Banaras. It contains photographs, graphic and textual sketches,
dialogues and diagrams which help in constructing the context of the city of Banaras in the reader's mind.
The second part is the central argument of the thesis. It contains an exposition of the nature of man which establishes the
premises, and forms the basis for the thesis. This section makes extensive references to the psychoanalytic, transpersonal
psychological, and existential philosophical works of Sigmund Freud, J.Krishnamurti, Erich Fromm, Ken Wilber, Jean-Paul
The third part identifies and dispels various illusions clouding the existence, life and growth of Banaras in particular, and
the city (as a domain of human pursuits) in general. It also reveals the role of history, irrationality and ignorance in the
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS iv
INTRODUCTION 1
THE CHARACTERS 9
AT MANIKARNIKA GHAT 12
ARRIVAL AT RAMESWAR 28
ARRIVAL AT SIVPURI 71
AT MANIKARNIKA GHAT 96
ii
SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY 98
iii
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
To wish to alleviate the burden of gratitude - that dwells in the depths of my heart - by pouring a few cliches on
this page is only to be either over ambitious or inane. All that I hope here, therefore, is to relieve myself of a little if not
The many contemplative evenings spent over cups of honey -filled tea and joy -filled debates with my advisor,
Professor Gary Coates, have already found a secure place in my memories. He has been more than an advisor to me, and
I cannot possibly thank him enough for guiding me to bring this work from a meagerly assembled draft of stray ideas to
I owe great respect and gratitude to Professor Vladimir Krstic for the many invigorating and positively critical
debates that have polished my argument rigorously during the course of development of my thesis.
I thank Professor Donald Watts for kindly and promptly sharing his thoughts on various issues covering a wide
ground of knowledge.
I would like to thank Anujay Vootla and Venu Gopal Pulipaka for their constructive criticism which has
tremendously helped me shape the argument in a proper way. I also thank Nagarjuna Chimata for his constant support.
Finally, to say that my friends and parents have extended their love and encouragement is only to understate their active
iv
INTRODUCTION
THE PLOT:
Lord Siva, the destroyer of ignorance and the giver of Bliss, and Sage Narada, the
eternal traveler and scholar-musician, are on a canonical pilgrimage around the
city of Banaras. As they traverse the ten -mile circumambulation path which is
marked by five canonical halts, the Divine pilgrims, through their dialogues,
examine the conception of limited -man and the triumph of irrationality which
formed the sub -structure of the physical city of Banaras. In their conversations are
raised such issues as the existential and psychological elements of Banaras and
their relationship to its physical structure, growth and proliferation of forms.
1
Away from all that, this work is an exercise in reason and a critical
investigation of the city of Banaras. My concern is with "what should be
studied in Banaras, why it should be studied, and how that study informs and
affects our lives."
I shall now request the reader to take a look at the map of possible
levels, stances and issues that could be taken up for the study of cities. On this
map, I locate the focus, premises and the scope of my present work of
investigation:
2
Realms of Thought/Action Assumptions/Attitudes Questions Disciplines Examples
1. Physical making of the city - We need the city - By what means can we build cities, - Engineering
- Physical construction - We need the society maintain them and sustain them? - Science
- Technology - We need Technology - What are the available principles? - Planning
- Geography and other - We need to live together - What are the available technologies? - Administration
sciences - Principles are absolutes - Architecrure
- Methods - Follow others - Urban Design
- Execution - Let us assume that.. .
- Skills / Techniques
FRUIT
2. Form and space making principles - We need the city - What are the structures for living - Architecture -Aldo Rossi
- Spatial and formal - We need the society together? - Urban Design -Ed. Bacon
manipulation techniques - We need the structures to - What is order? - Urban Planning -Corbusier
- Geometrical systems give shape to society - How to express? -Leon Krier
- Movement systems - We need to live together - How to "translate" the metaphysical -Louis Kahn
- Transforming abstract to - Structures are absolutes into the physical? -Rob ;Crier
concrete - Let us assume that... - What kind of city? -F.L. Wright
- Methods - What is the basis of form and space -R. Venturi
- Skills / Intellect
5--
an...
3. "Structures" of civilization - We need the structures - How do we relate - Sociology
- Institutions - We need to live together - to each other? - Economics -Marx /Engels
- Economic and political - We need to give structure to - to the world? - Politics -K. Popper
systems the - How do we transact? - Anthropology -j.j. Rousseau
systems society - How do we sort out? - Linguistics -Hannah Arendt
- Linguistic structures - What absolutes are available - What is human nature? - Philosophy -Daniel Bell
- Culture - Let us assume that.. . - What is individual and what is -Derrida
- Methods collective? -R. Sennett
- Intellect - What is the basis of a "structure?" -M. Foucault
-E. Schumacher
4. Essences, Raison d' etre -We are/lam - Are we? Am I? - Psychology -S. Freud
- Reason - I exist - Why are we? - Philosophy -C.G. lung
- Reflection - I need to figure out - Who are we? - Metaphysics -K Wilber
- Realization - I need to find out why we - What do I/We need? - 'Theology -Da Free John
- Psyche / Consciousness are - How do I relate to Thou? -Krishnamurti
- Investigation - What to assume - What is living together? -E. Fromm
- Contemplation - What not to assume - Why cities? +P. Sartre
- Intellect / Meta -intellect - Why to assume - Why do we live together? -M. Buber
- Why not to assume - What should I/We do? -Rollo May
- What is the basis of reason itself? -Vivekananda
-A. Camus
-F. Kafka
-R.D. Laing
ROOTS -Louis Kahn
Although concerned individuals are free to study the city at any level starting at any level/stance, I do hold
that unless the "roots" are strong and clear, the tree of investigation will not stand in the face of even a breeze of
reason, let alone a deluge of arbitrariness and ignorance. As it can be seen in
the map, the present work of investigation is concerned with the relationship
between the "roots" or "essences," the "structures" of the city and the
"principles" of the physical making of the city. However, the emphasis here is
on developing a theory that can act as a basis for a proper and elemental
indispensability, almost all the theories of man that I have encountered are
plagued by false and terrible presumptions of the most fundamental kind. That
that almost all the theories are valid at different levels of diagnosis and cure
the city and the meaning of his existence in that context). However, almost no
4
single theory of man at the level of self and psychology could account for the
making. The questions being asked here are: What is going on in Banaras?
Why is Banaras the way it is? Why do the people of Banaras live and relate to
each other the way they do? Are they different from other peoples and is
Banaras different from other cities? What does it all mean, finally, to me and
the reader? Does all this have any larger significance to man in general?
The basic intention of this thesis is to find the most fundamental and
5
THE PILGRIMAGE ITINERARY
DESCRIPTIVE PHASE
THE ARGUMENT
On the way to Sivpuri along the river Varana .: "FORM FOLLOWS FICTION"
4. Arrival at Sivpuri - the fourth halt: "THE FALSE RELIGION OF HISTORY, MYTH AND MONUMENT"
Kapiladhara
Manikarnika Ghat
Bhimchandi
THE DESCRIPTIVE PHASE
8
THE CHARACTERS
LORD SIVA: A popular God among Indians, he is one of the three presiding
deities of the universe, the other two being Lord Brahma and Lord Vishnu.
Lord Brahma creates the world, Lord Vishnu sustains it and Lord Siva
destroys the degenerated and decadent world enabling Brahma to begin the
boons very easily. He is extolled with numerous other names'. Mount Kailasa
in the Himalayas is his eternal abode, and Banaras is the place from which He
presides over the matters of the universe. He is also associated with the
cremation grounds, and that is one reason to call Banaras a Mahasmasan (great
cremation ground).
Lord Siva is armed with a Trident and a lethal "third eye." Nandi, the
sacred bull is his conveyance. Goddess Parvathi and Goddess Ganges are his
two wives.
Narada is the most beloved and respected of all the sages even in the Nether
Worlds. He is known to feast on the conflicts between the Gods and the
devoutly travelling with his Guru, who is none other than Lord Siva.
10
11
AT MANIKARNIKA GHAT
Disguised as pilgrims, Lord Siva and Sage Narada set off on the circumambulation of Kashi.
The Panch Kroshi circuit is, as its name indicates, five kroshas or about sixty miles long. There are in
all 108 temples on the circuit all of which lie on the right side of the pilgrimage path.
After leaving Manikarnika ghat early in the morning, Siva and Narada reached, by the same evening,
of banyan trees, a family of parrots, a herd of benevolent monkeys and a sacred pond. Tired after a
day's travel in the warm tropical sun, both the pilgrims rested for a while and after the evening
ablutions, they sat down on the steps of the large tank. As the Sun started setting in the west, Siva
SIVA: Narada, 0 great son of the Creator, Kashi is the city of circuits. In this
city, devoted pilgrims carrying food, faith and age-old stories, go circling the city
following the sixteen codified sacred circuits. The city is like an onion: circuit
within a circuit, one finally reaches the center where the great Linga lies. The
their elders. What defines Kashi, Narada, unlike the cities of hell, are neither the
fort walls nor the boundaries, but the circuits of circumambulation. These circuits
of circumambulation around the city and its countless temples, form not a map
but a mandala in the minds of devoted pilgrims as they traverse the routes
chanting and reciting the myths and stories about the places they come across. In
this way the pilgrims in fact meditate the city and see the correspondence
between the city of the mind and the city of the outer world. Ultimately, it is the
city of the mind, Narada, that the people carry with them and possess - not the
material city.
These circuits are in turn connected to the circuits at a larger level. Kashi is a part
Devi in the east, Kanchi in the south and Dvaraka in the west form the four points
of this grand pilgrimage for which Kashi is the center. As they trek the circuits,
people see what they have heard about their whole lives and then they relate and
recreate their own city by means of their own stories. Banaras is not just what
13
you see, Narada: there are many Banarases beneath, around and within the
physical setting, enveloping it like the air and the mist. The one dynamically
alters, corresponds to and embraces the other. It is in the correlation between all
these cities that the unity, integrity and vitality of this city lies.
Narada, there is a distinction between the "map reading image" of the city and the
"myth reading image of the city." The mandala of Kashi is a kinesthetic and
traversing it ritually in space. You may find your way by means of a map, but
with a mandala, you become the mandala. A mandala is no map, Narada, but a
Somewhere in the process of traversing the city, Narada, one transforms one's
own self into the city and the city is projected as an image of one's self. We shall
consider the relationship between the idea of the self and the mandala of the city
at a later stage; but, now let us be content with this description of Banaras and
let us move on to our next halt. I shall describe to you the most vivid and
14
ON THE WAY TO BHIMCHANDI . . .
SIVA: Between the crescent and the labyrinth, Narada, exists a city of many
levels. Stretched along the curve of the river Ganges from the north to the south
of the city, like a tensed bow, the city of steps is full of power and vitality.
Between the ever flowing waters of the Ganges and the ever growing labyrinth
When you are in Kashi, when you are wading through the vein -like streets of
Banaras as a stranger, Narada, you hardly know that there flows a great river
which grazes lazily over the vast plains on one side of the city. Only the presence
of a broken ore used to clear the drains, or a dead fish lying on one of the mud
roads hints at the presence of their unseen habitat. As you walk toward the rising
sun and climb the gentle slope of the hillock, you reach a point of perceptual
inversion: in a moment you are faced with a spatial, spiritual and topographic
reversal. Narada, at the end of the street lies a revelation, a splendor in water
colors, a moment of grace in the sweeping curve of the river and the liberating
15
emptiness of the other bank - all in one unsuspected moment.
That moment of revelation is when you arrive at the city of steps. Kashi
doesn't rise from the river bank indifferently or steeply; instead it seeks a
mediating element where the clamor of the city can be reconciled with the silence
of the river. You may call the mediator a ghat city - a city in itself, but it is
nourished and fed by both the eternal flows of life on either side of it. However,
the river, the ghats and the city do not read as three independent elements: one
cannot exist without the other. Only the existence of all the three qualifies the
Like the fingers that comb one's hair, the ghats extend in a jagged manner
into the city and like an assuring shoulder they support the river and provide a
0 dear sage, at the ghats, the momentum and the energy of the city of
Banaras is thwarted such that it forces the city edge into a rugged, fat, haphazard,
platforms. The intersection of the city of steps and the labyrinthine Kashi is
violent indeed. But the conjunction of the ghats with the river is gentle, changing
16
with the tide, slippery and quiet. The Ganges flows slowly, patiently and
delicately like an Indian woman, absorbing all the agonies, burdens, adoration
The ghat city originates at the confluence of the Asi river and the Ganges
at the southern end of Kashi and extends till the merging of Varana river with the
mother. If you are a pilgrim, you may take a walk from the Asi ghat along the
uneven terrain of the river edge. What you come across may be the most
profound experience of the city: both its architecture and its life. Along the length
A wrecked boat can be seen capsized in the silt of the muddy clay bank.
A half -naked mendicant stands waist -deep in the water, alone with a herd of
leaves, Marigolds, Roses, Lotuses adore the ghats. Fat Brahmins conduct funeral
oblations for bereft families. A forest of lamp -holding bamboos, a leaning temple
capsized in the soft clay, a vendor of sweets, a bangle man, a rusty balustrade
and a worn off rope that once held the mightiest of the boats and an abandoned
tower house compete for the same place at the river's edge and the viewer's
17
mind.
You may also, Narada, if you are patiently and curiously walking along
the ghats, meet the vandalized stone plinths of the lofty palaces, a scale
measuring the height of the Ganges, a blood -clad Hanuman, a bicycle, a group
of mischievous kids flying kites, stray dogs, Yakshas and Gandharvas4. Burning
corpses with swirling smoke blacken the empty edifices. Still hot ashes of a
funeral pyre and a meditating yogi with a trident and saffron flag, a sandstone
colonnade, a chimney, chatting fishermen with tangled nets, a dead snake, brass
vessels resting on the octagonal stone platforms, graceful young girls and the
floating bodies of dead infants coexist simultaneously on the craggy steps of the
ghats.
temple bells, the buzz of the chanting and recitations, the squeak of greasy
indifferent rustle of the dry leaves rolling on the abraded stone walks, the
growling of old monkeys and the chirping of the parrots add to the richness of
Sun, dust and vapors over the distant horizon become an onslaught of metaphors
fiction: Parvathi's ear rings, Divodasa's ten -horse sacrifice, a broken bow and a
bride won, Vasthu - the lethargic demon, Indra with a diamond edged lethal
weapon, Me with a crescent and two wives. The invisible population far
surpasses the visible and dominates the visible. Ghats: the city between the
Ganges and Kashi5. Ghats: the magnificent amphitheaters of life drama - a literal
life drama where fiction and illusions are enacted with faith.
Traveling further west from Kandava, Lord Siva and Narada, accompanied by a group of
twenty-four pilgrims from all over the country, after a walk of two days and nights, reach the second
The modest temple, built of sandstone and granite, looks heavy but soothing in the purple
morning glow of a warm Indian July day. Stray clouds in rainbow colors still adorn the sky. The
temple has a mandapa6 of a hundred sandstone pillars which majestically bear the carefully carved
ceiling depicting the myths of India and of Kashi. Sitting on the temple porch, looking into the early
morning mist and dew that dampens the plants and rocks, Lord Siva resumes his narrations about
Kashi as the ever attentive Narada listens to him with devotion and interest. The silent sculptures of
manifold deities and a few inquisitive pilgrims join Narada in listening to the magical words of the
Lord.
SIVA: It is no exaggeration at all to say that Kashi occupies a crucial and unique
Mandapa is a hall of pillars that usually forms the front end of a temple.
6.
However, mandapas may as well be independent elements in a settlement.
20
location in the whole universe. As I proceed with my renderings of the city, you
may, 0 wise Narada, compare those renderings with all those cities which you
Kashi lies at the rare concurrence of the magnificent gestures of the Pancha
Bhutas, the five fundamental elements: earth, water, air, fire and sky. The land
gently rises in three hills toward the sky which people interpret as my powerful
Trident. My wife Ganges flows opposite to the usual direction she takes: she
flows toward the north pointing to my abode in the Himalayas to the far north
of Kashi. And, she follows a crescent course as she flows through the city
Toro6RAPH ICA L MYTH :5IVAS TRIDENT
signifying the moon that I wear on my head. The whole city grows on the west
bank of the river and faces the rising Sun at which time the ghats become nothing
less than the amphitheaters from which to witness the brilliance of the sunrise.
Where else in the three worlds can one find such a configuration of five elements
The city is bounded by two rivers: Varana to the north and Asi to the
south. These two rivers guard the city from any calamities and plagues.
Monsoons often bring ecstacy to the Ganges, at which time she embraces the
21
whole city and the city then resembles the Linga itself. All the inhabitants and
pilgrims who dwell in the city when it is in such a miraculous state are believed
NARADA: Yes, 0 Lord of the worlds, it is true that no other city either on the
earth, or in the heavens, or in the nether world (Patala) stands with such divine
power and auspicious topography. As it is told by those who dwell there, the city
SIVA: In addition, Narada, the people who truly dwell in Kashi are immersed in
unshakable faith and observe the rituals of veneration and remembrance with
great devotion. No wonder that Kashi is said to be the delight and more than
that, a source of liberation for Gods and humans alike. Kashi is thus the home for
all the divinities of the universe and the blessed humans who live in faith and
virtue. With its Golden spires, nectar filled stepped tanks, theatrical ghats,
fluttering flags over the golden pinnacles of temples, evergreen trees harboring
22
challenges even the Heavens in all respects. It is only in the age of Kali that chaos,
in the name of freedom, started creeping into the city from the outskirts,
seems to possess mysterious and intriguing names. What do these names signify
SIVA: That is a timely question, 0 great Sage. A name is not a mere label that we
impart to a thing for our convenience. And a name is never a part of a thing until
we label the thing with one. A name evolves out of a web of circumstances,
which form our world. We weave a thing into the mental world by relating a
thing to that world in an effort to comprehend its meaning and order. So, Narada,
naming a thing is nothing but forming a reality of your own within you while the
23
Kashi is also known as Varanasi, Banaras, Avimukta, Ananda vana, Rudravasa
and Mahasmasana.
The name Kashi was given to the city owing to the brilliance of its spirit
and its constitution; Kashi literally means the city of light - light which you may
call wisdom or enlightenment - liberating every soul that dwells within it.
The name Varanasi is derived from the names of the two rivers bounding
the city: Varana to the north, Asi to the south, between them is the holy land of
Varanasi. Varana means the averter and Asi, the sword. These two rivers were
The third and the most popular name, Banaras, is the deformation of
Varanasi itself.
Avimukta means the 'never forsaken'. Even in the time of pralaya, the great
destruction, I do not let loose of the city of Avimukta. I will hold the city above
Anandavana is the 'forest of bliss'. With the forest of trees, Lingas and
24
I am everywhere in Kashi. Everything that touches Rudravasa becomes
Rudravasa.
cremation grounds, Kashi is the most sacred cremation ground. It has been said
that death and cremation in Kashi ensures liberation from the earthly cycles of life
and birth.
NARADA: 0 great destroyer of evil, can you now tell me how the curious names
of various parts of Kashi have come to be?
SIVA: No place in Kashi is separated from the mandala of the city, Narada.
Naming a thing is also recognizing its role and position in the universe. By
recognizing a thing's role, we tie it into a meaningful whole. So, the names tell
Parvathi supposedly lost her ear ring. Manasarovar refers to what is considered the
25
most sacred pond in the world that lies in the Himalayas. Maidagin is really the
name of the river Mandakini in the Himalayas. Narada, Kashi is rich with stories,
myths and romance. In the names of the city people seek an identity and a
26
THE ARGUMENT
27
ARRIVAL AT RAMESWAR
Traveling northward from Bhimchandi, the Sage and the Lord, along with twenty-four other
pilgrims of all ages, walk for two days through the woods and barren lands, ponds and cloudy skies,
to reach Rameswar, the third canonical halt on the Panch Kroshi circuit. Rameswar lies on the banks
The freshness of the air the night after some rain, the still dark star -strewn sky of pre -dawn
morning, the pleasant smells of the month of Sravana (the smells of Jasmines, of water Lilies and
Marigolds) and the awakening calls of a distant rooster piercing the darkness of silence mark the next
By the time Narada had prepared himself for yet another enlightening day, the Lord of the
Lords was deeply engrossed in Samadhi (the state of being one with the world) with half-closed eyes
and radiant body. The gentle footsteps of Narada over the water-filled stone walk-way outside the
temple porch awaken the Great Lord. In that state of rare tranquility the eternal traveler and the Lord
SIVA: Narada, so far I have described the city of Banaras in a textual and pictorial
mode. Now that you possess those images, let us tacitly work with them and try
to see if we can weld them into a whole in which we can see the meaning of the
28
city and of life.
essential issues about why we should form a theory at all. What do you think a
theory is for, wise Narada? Let us delve into it a little so that we are clear about
NARADA: 0 Lord, every theory is an attempt at explaining why and how the
world exists the way it does (which includes how we are related to all this mess)
and what we are supposed to do (meaning of life, destiny, etc.)'. Every theory
ventures to account for the behavior of various things. Theories of science are the
efforts to understand, conquer and control the so-called material world. Theories
of philosophy, psychology and sociology are primarily the ways to account for
human existence and behavior; it is primarily these theories which form the basis
for the theories of the city. The role of a theory is to locate the most fundamental
ventures to explain away how things have come to be and why they are the way
they are. However, not every theory is a myth. Myth is a category of theory;
scientific deliberations are also categories of theory, and so are the propositions
of architecture and urban design.
29
rationale behind any given phenomenon; in other words, a theory allows us to
locate the essence of a phenomenon. A theorist would ask "what is the most
Aldo Rossi, in his book The Architecture of the City bases his theory on the
Marcel Poete. Edmund Bacon draws his basis from the works of psychologist Eric
Erickson and artist Paul Klee. Leon Krier tacitly avouches Marxist theories; and
theories depend greatly on the validity and strength of their "basis". In the process
of choosing and accepting these bases, the urban theories compound the mistakes,
SIVA: Narada, we are engaged in this discussion out of our interest in cities and
30
it is happening so and what it ultimately means to us. Let me then ask you where
we should begin our argument. where shall we begin our string of reason and
NARADA: 0 Lord of the universe, cities are built by the people for the people;
people such as you, me and them. To meet certain demands of the body and the
mind, we build the cities. Of course we do various other things than building
cities, but the city becomes the primary physical context within which those other
things take place; the city is the primary domain of human pursuits. The city
But why do we pursue various things? Why can't we just be? Why should
we learn and study? Why should we go to war? Why should we live together?
Why should we create? Why should we, 0 Lord, seek omnipotence and
music and sculpt stones into lively forms? Why do we write and what does Truth
31
those drives are and what we really need as humans in order to satiate or pacify
those drive(s). Various individuals have, in the past ventured to explain those
primary drives which form the human psyche and shape human destiny.' We
should build the foundation first in order to raise the edifice, I surmise, 0 Lord.
SIVA: I agree, o wise Narada. We should be clear about what exactly we need -
both physiologically and psychologically. We should decide what pacifies the fire
within us. But first we should rid ourselves of certain prejudices. Let us not take
for granted that, in the first place, we need cities. Let us not begin by saying that
democracy is good or that capitalism is bad. We cannot begin our discussion with
the idea that political or economic structures determine the social structure or
something of that sort. Not only is that abstract, but it is not the most
fundamental question with which we should begin. Certainly all the structures
that we form are used to manage and manipulate various things in order to
talk about economic and social structures; only humans do. We develop various
things with the hope that they will quench our existential thirst. Let us begin
there; let us begin with our existence which qualifies and necessitates all that we
build and do. Let us not begin with assumptions, but with existence itself'.
abstraction. That I exist is no theory or idea; I exist and I am. Although it may
sound paradoxical, 0 Narada, the truth is that my existence is the most concrete
and unambiguous fact that I experience actively from moment to moment.
and deeds. Reason and passion are both contained within our existence'. So, let
us begin there, at the root of reason and at the root of that which necessitates our
39) Rollo May concurs with our approach: "The only way we can understand and
deal with human beings is to clarify the -'nature of being human'- which is
ontology. 'Any theory not founded on the nature of being human is a lie and
betrayal of man.'"
Narada, I exist. I am the first thing that I sense; I am the first thing that
I know is real. I am the basis of reality or the center of reality. I am. I am, and
being that exists and seeks, the root of all reason, thought and comprehension. Let
us begin there.
Who and what judges the Truth of Reality? Or let us put it this way: who
needs reality, 0 Narada? Only that which is Real can comprehend reality. So, who
comprehends the Truth of Reality, and why do they need to do so? Let us begin
with that which is real. Let us begin with that which seeks to establish reality. Let
beginning and basis of our argument. Here is what I propose would account for
34
is fragmentary and seeks completeness constantly. Man is by birth, at least
perfect knowledge, and boundless and eternal ecstacy are the goals of all human
beings regardless of their race and origin - whether they are aware of those goals
or not. I also propose for us to consider whether any form of human seeking falls
outside these three fundamental existential categories. This precisely means that
drives.
Human beings build cities and megalopolises, wage wars, love, hate, land
on the moon and live in order to attain something that is essentially not
physiological. Man's bodily needs seem to be pretty limited and rather easy to
SIVA: Narada, Da Free John identifies that "our greatest need is to discover
11.
12. SIVA: Narada, Erich Fromm tells us in The Sane Society, that "even the
most complete satisfaction of all his instinctive needs does not solve his human
problem; his most intensive passions and needs are not those rooted in the body,
but those rooted in the very peculiarity of his existence."
35
problematic.
given to us. We exist and there is no apparent choice in that. Existence is the most
NARADA: Quite true, 0 Sarveswar. We cannot cease to exist. We defy death and
non-existence and that is an existential tendency of life. Our existence is the most
precious thing to us. Given a chance, we would love to exist forever. Immortality
is the first, and essential ideal of life; man's constant desire is to live forever, and
SIVA: Yes, Narada, all questions begin there - at existence - and also end there -
13
Narada: 0 Lord, Freud recognizes this fact, but due to his own prejudices
and presumptions, brushes it away as a religious trick. In Civilization and its
Discontents, he writes (p.21): The 'oneness with the universe' which constitutes
its [oceanic feeling's] ideational content sounds like a first attempt at a religious
consolation, as though it were another way of disclaiming the danger which the
ego recognizes as threatening."
36
and we need to live; that's where everything begins. The point is best realized
when one is held at a gun -point, or when one's imminent death is predicted by
the doctors. Only then, perhaps, can one correctly understand the existential
know, Narada. Knowing is almost synonymous with existence. In fact, there is not
H. SIVA: 0 dear Sage, Camus muses in his Myth of Sisyphus that the
questions of whether reality has seven dimensions or when the world began make
no sense unless we resolve the worth and meaning of existence. He considers
suicide as the first problem of the philosophers. To paraphrase him, there is but
one truly serious philosophical problem, and that is suicide. Judging whether life
is worth living or not amounts to answering some of the fundamental questions
of philosophy. (p. 1, The Myth of Sisyphus)
37
strive all the time to be happy. We need to notice that happiness is the ideal state
numerous other things that we pursue, we seek boundless joy all the time.
NARADA: I understand that existence, knowledge and joy are the three
inseparable components of the same being and that they are the three
fundamental categories of consciousness. But, I fail to see how these three drives
together can account for the existence and growth of the cities as well.
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SIVA: Well Narada, we are unhappy and thus seek pleasure; we are ignorant and N00,7 re
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thus seek knowledge; we are afraid of death and thus seek security in things that 4461.11* wrnour...
directly or indirectly extend and immortalize our existence. The city is the
and incessant motion just like the excited particles in an electric field. The pace
pleasure, let alone eternal bliss. People seek knowledge in a mode of knowing
that prevents them from achieving a totality of knowledge. People seek existence
in things that are ephemeral and false. Running after mirages is the only analogy
rationality. Our cities are made out of places and events which house these
unwise cravings. When people's pursuits are blocked or questioned, they feel
may notice, Narada, that people seek identity and existence in a variety of things,
in the process of firmly and eternally establishing their existence (without any
success though): people seek identity in their name, physical property, their
39
beliefs (usually of religion). These attempts may be deciphered from such
"What do you think I am? Mind that you are talking to a specialist!"
(identity from association with larger things: I am so large and secure. The great
A
my life is yours." (The lovers feel one with each other. We may notice the
tendency of the being to become one with the world; in this case the lover feels
"I am well known all over the world; I am the most famous person in the
" SIVA: Narada, Erich Fromm in Escape from Freedom and The Art of
Loving demonstrates convincingly the existential desire of man to become one
with the world. In other words, by becoming one with the universe, and other
people, one's existence is established for eternity in the most expansive way.
40
entire history of the world!" (I exist in an infinite number of minds which renders
me immortal.)"
"These estates, cars and bungalows are mine." (To them is linked my
etc., are all the results of an unsatiated drive to be (exist) as one with the
world". To know that one exists is to know one's identity. Unless one
establishes what he or she la, one remains as a non -entity without identity. Every
being strives to seek identity in things that are "great," "large" and "permanent."
make here is that these are the pursuits that contribute to the existence of the
cities - the cities' physical existence. Cities are psychic entities. People seek to
relationships to other people. It is not difficult to see that people are seeking and
clinging to illusory things and ephemeral things to which they feel they can
make history, are all unsuccessful attempts to prolong one's mortal and temporal
19. SIVA: Narada, Erich Fromm in Escape From Freedom (p 180) observes that
"It always the inability [of oneself] to stand the aloneness of one's individual
is
self that leads to the drive to enter into a symbiotic relationship with someone
else. It is evident from this why masochistic and sadistic trends are always
blended with each other. Although on the surface they seem like contradictions,
they are essentially rooted in the same basic need."
42
existence'''. However, what we may notice behind those unsuccessful attempts
satiate the impulse to live forever, to be immortal and to lead an eternal existence.
exception, Narada. In their myths, legends and rites, the people of Banaras seek
eternal existence. In their offerings to their ancestors they indirectly seek security
for their life after death. Cities are rather the unsuccessful attempts to overcome
I am using it in a very direct and literal sense, and not in any metaphorical or
20. SIVA: Narada, you may cite certain instances of human behavior that
apparently seem to contradict our claim. A patriot and a mad lover are two such
examples. But, if we take a closer look, we may notice that a patriot "feels" one
with his country, and therefore thinks that he is a part of it. A lover "feels" one
with his beloved and thinks he is a part of his beloved. Both of them seek eternal
existence in something "else". Although the patriot dies he hopes to become
immortal through that act. The same is true with the lover who hopes to continue
living in the form of his beloved. And so Camus' Kaliayev (p. 246, Caligula and
other plays) muses: "To die for an ideal - that's the only way of proving oneself
worthy of it. It is our only justification [of our existence]."
43
When I say that Immortality is the goal of existence, I do mean, literally, that
So, Narada, it is in the existential security that people seek (or are told to
seek) that the cities gain their form and meaning. Cities exist as long as people
seek security in and through material things. Monuments galore and history and
mythologies thrive as long as people live the illusion that they can find security
in them. For the Greeks death was a shadowy continuation of life. Egyptians
thought that the soul would return to the body after a while. At Banaras,
Narada, the city as a whole, is the "Mahashmasan" or the great cremation ground.
Death in the city of Banaras is believed to grant one of the highest boons of life:
immortality and Bliss. In other words, if one were to believe the founding myths
of Banaras, even a dog that dies in the city will be privileged to enter the eternal
knowledge ruthlessly gushes into us through our senses and mind. But never
44
does that seem to fill us completely.' There are always things that we do not
know. It is quite likely that even after a million years of human existence, we may
reel in a state of incomplete knowledge: there are infinite things, events and
infinite ways to perceive them. The drive to know everything will never be
satiated with our present modes of "knowing." But, we are condemned to know.
around us and in ourselves. And yet we are condemned not to know anything
in its entirety.22
Lets take a closer look at this drive and the dynamic it expresses, Narada.
". SIVA: Erich Fromm in The Art of Loving observes that "The longing to
know ourselves and to know our fellow man has been expressed in the Delphic
motto 'Know thyself.' It is the mainspring of all psychology. But inasmuch as the
desire to know all of man, his innermost secret, the desire can never be fulfilled
in knowledge of ordinary kind, in knowledge only by thought. Even if we knew
a thousand times more of ourselves, we would never reach the bottom."
u. NARADA: Yes, 0 Lord. Fromm tells us in The Art of Loving(p 29) that
"The further we reach into the depths of our being, or someone else's being, the
more knowledge eludes us. Yet, we cannot help desiring to penetrate into the
innermost secret of man's soul, into the innermost nucleus which is 'he. -
45
NARADA: To know is to become, 0 Lord. We know a thing by becoming that
thing. We know a thing by creating that thing within ourselves and simulating
a car we should know exactly how it behaves, turns, stops, jumps and so on. In
intimately that he knows how it will respond to various conditions; what intensity
of plucking the string is needed to produce a certain result. The musician is not
separate from his instrument. The musician and his instrument are one. By the
decipher - Truth, which is the ultimate knowledge, is the ideal state of being.'
NARADA: Fromm also observes (ibid p 29.) that "knowledge has one more
and a fundamental relation to the problem of love. The basic need to fuse with
another person so as to transcend the confinement of one's separateness in closely
related to another specifically human drive, that is to 'know the secret of man.'"
46
SIVA: Yes, indeed, 0 Saraswati's son, Truth and Immortality are, one and the
same. But, the paradox here is that Truth is never to be comprehended by the
be attained through any amount of perfection of our bodily existence. And that
arrived at the same conclusion which inevitably led them to a sense of tragic
anguish. But we will extend our reason and investigative faculties a little further
and see where the clues will lead us, and if they can take us beyond the dis-
Let us now discuss the third dimension of being: "joy." Joy is the nectar
of life. In acts ranging from jocular humor to the orgasmic ecstacy of sex we seek
pleasure, happiness, joy and ecstacy'. We may notice, Narada, for example, that
underscores his "pleasure principle" (p. 25): "We will therefore turn to the less
ambitious question of what men themselves show by their behavior to be the
purpose and intention of their lives. What do they demand of life and wish to
achieve in it? . They strive after happiness. They want to become happy and
. .
to remain so. As we see, what decides the purpose of life is simply the
. .
sexual acts, bars, movie houses, parties, the reading of books and other rituals
where they demand nothing less than boundless joy25. But these things never
At no time are the three dimensions of existence separate from each other.
with an impulse to be immortal, blissful, true and real, eternal, one -with -the -
world, free, perfect and omniscient. Every human pursuit - whether one realizes
it or not - falls under at least one of the three elemental existential propensities
25.
SIVA: 0 Narada,
Da Free John in his book The Dreaded Gomboo (p. 267)
comments that "the essence of all seeking is the pursuit of Happiness in
relationship. The search is based on the notion that without relational
circumstances we cannot be Happy."
48
unshakable identity rooted in eternal freedom, total knowledge of things in the
universe and omniscience, and finally seeks ecstacy that is boundless and free.
to know seeks meaning in Truth; Bliss is the sole goal of the drive to joy. That is all,
Narada. That is what you need. That is what you have ever - knowingly or
otherwise - wanted?
distinct paths may be observed: one begins with existence and seeks the identity
and meaning of the self (the existentialism of Jean -Paul Sartre, Martin Buber, Carl
Jaspers, Nietzsche, Albert Camus, Edmund Husserl etc..). The other begins with
And the Vedas say "aham brahmasmi (I am the one)." They also say
"Anando brahma (Bliss is the one)." Vedas finally proclaim the one as
"sachidananda" which means sat - the Truth or Awareness, chit - the intelligence,
and ananda - the Bliss.
Meister Eckhart declared that by nature every creature seeks to become
like God.
Fritz Kunkel said that "Being one with the universe, one with God - that
is what we wish for most whether we know it or not." (See Ken Wilber's Atman
Project)
27. SIVA: Narada, Da Free John ecstatically declares: "We do not need sex. We
do not need society. We do not need nature. We do not need universe. All this
is a modification, distressful perturbation of the Well of Being."
49
the problem of knowledge and seeks the Truth of the Reality (David Hume,
Immanuel Kant, Hegel, Ayer, Bertrand Russell, and others), and the third one
begins with joy and seeks Ecstacy (Bhagawan Rajneesh, Agehananda Bharati,
However, Narada, even a little common sense can help us show that all
of human seeking outlined just now cannot possibly be fulfilled. Humans are
endowed with impulses that aim at nothing less than infinity; they are also
provided with bodies and minds that are limited, feeble, vulnerable, alienated and
ephemeral. With the equipment which human beings are provided it is foolish to
the existence of the three fundamental drives has been proved substantially. The
limitations and vulnerability of the body -mind is well evident to all of us. The
question then is, how can life be meaningful if we are condemned to live these
50
it?' Do you remember the fate of Mr. Joseph K. of Kafka? Do you remember the
"anguish?" Should human beings continually and endlessly confront the enigma
of life? What is going on with the human beings? Are there any clues and what
argument. In order for our argument to be complete we should, with our well
established basis, consider all the clues and speculate on the possibilities that lie
I can see two conclusions, 0 Lord: the first one is where the Western
existential stream stopped: that there is no ultimate meaning to life, and that the
human being is cursed to live a life of agony and anguish unable to reconcile the
existential given. In this case, reason and existence become absolutely meaningless
". SIVA: Narada, Camus' Caligula in Caligula and other plays (p. 8) muses:
"Men die; and they are not happy."
51
and unworthy of living, leading to the conclusion that life is utterly and cruelly
pilgrimage, our dialogues and our discourses, all of them should be senseless.
This precisely means suicide is the only legitimate way of handling such an
anguish.
So, in order for life to be meaningful at all, the only possibility is that,
and are by nature Blissful. I cannot see any other possible speculations. For the
know that this is a wild speculation. But this is the only possibility that answers
SIVA: Very well, NJarada. Let us consider briefly the second speculation. Let me
I exist. I am the first thing that I sense; I am the first thing that I know is
real. I am the basis of reality or the center of reality. I am. I am and that is an
52
undeniable, primordial, intrinsic, and elemental Truth. I, as the being that exists,
Unless I am Real, how can I ever sense Reality and authenticate Reality?
I must be the Truth. I must be the One. To know Truth is to become Truth; to
know Reality is to become Reality. But if there is a Truth separate and apart from
myself, how can that be Truth? If there is any Reality separate from my-Self, then
how can that reality be Real? Truth must include my -Self; I must be in union with
Reality. Hence, as you said a while ago, 0 Narada, reason tells us that I should
be Reality, Truth and I must be Eternal. There can be no reality separate from my
0 Lord. Let me recall what he once said: "The Vedantist gives no other attributes
53
to God except these three, that He is Infinite Existence, Infinite Knowledge, and
Ken Wilber concludes that "that can be said with absolute assurance. And
that is why human desire is insatiable, why all joys yearn for infinity - all a
person wants is Atman [the supreme being]; all he finds are symbolic substitutes
for it."'
Adept Da Free John declares: ". . . you are already perfectly coincident
with God, perfectly Full, perfectly Realized, perfectly established in the Truth of
Happiness."
We find in the Svetasvatara Upanishad (p. 86) that "when in inner union
he is beyond the world of the body, then the third world, the world of the Spirit,
is found, where the power of the All is, and man has all: for he is one with the
One."
54
Chandoghya Upanishad says (p. 118): "This invisible and subtle existence
is the Spirit of the whole universe. That is Reality. That is Truth. THOU ART
THAT."
with the world, all-knowing, Real, True and unconditionally Blissful. The fact that
the mortal, bodily existence can never ever get closer to those goals; and the fact
what he yearns to be, we may have to conclude that the human existence is
of life. I have also reached the conviction that there are only three legitimate goals
to human life - attaining which is the only meaningful action: all we need are
Permanence, Omniscience and Bliss; all we ever wanted are to be eternally one
with the world, to know all and to be free of all sorrow forever.
LORD SIVA: Yes, 0 Narada, and from the point of view of the design of the
cities, we have to realize that these fundamental and primordial needs and goals
55
cannot be found in things and limited human relationships. Things and
relationships are transient and limited, and the wise ones never cling to them. An
architecture that gives form to those ignorant and imperfect pursuits of the
humans will only perpetuate the chaos, meaninglessness, and the idiocy of the
prejudiced, mediocre human existence that clings to the cities. And with that
thesis, we shall consider and debate a few fundamental issues that lie at the root
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56
ON THE WAY TO SIVPURI .
As the pilgrims walked along the path, a mysterious voice from the sky proclaimed:
The other pilgrims heard the voice and with revived spirits resumed their walk, chanting of
the Lord and the city. But the divine pilgrims, disguised as mendicants looked at each other and
smiled at the mysterious phenomenon and the naive and irrational faith of the other pilgrims.
Siva: 0 dear Sage, starting with our newly earned understanding of human
nature, and beginning with the fact that Truth, Immortality, Reality, Bliss and
Meaning cannot be found in things, we shall dissect the roots of the city of
Banaras. With our thesis that existence, knowledge and Bliss are the three
fundamental needs and drives of human life, we shall examine the structure
57
Narada, the city of Banaras is predicated on numerous STORIES. Those
stories, which are called myths and legends by the scholars, those sacred works
of fiction sacredly held high by the high -priests of popular religion, dictate,
determine and drive the masses of unthinking people. As we are going to see, it
is the tyranny of fiction that, at the level of the self and also the city, determines
Our interest is, however, 0 Narada, to get beneath the sheath of fiction in
order to unearth the essential and fundamental needs of human beings which are
Narada, cities are really places where masses of humans are immersed in
illusions of all kinds. Cities are, without any exception, places of illusions and
places of fictions fuelled by irrationality, oppression and mediocrity. But, first, let
58
and building strings of reason (no matter how focused or immaculate) from
along with their belief in Aryan supremacy. They lived and died within a story
propagated by the great dictator. The Serbian war and the Russian collapse -
aren't those the result of the most irrational beliefs, impulses and sentiments?
Don't you see that the behavior of all these people reveals their ignorance of what
they really need as humans? Do you see, Narada, who has been actively
inhabiting, raising and ravaging the cities? Take an example from a nearby land:
At Ayodhya an ancient and huge Mosque was reduced to dust just for the belief -
an irrational and unfounded belief - that Lord Rama was born in that very place
where the Mosque stood. A whole nation was divided and pushed into anarchy
over an utterly "evidenceless cause." What existential security were they after, 0
Narada? And what an illusion it is to think that destroying something and
erecting something else is going to perpetuate their existence! How unwise and
neurotic were those people who did not know what they needed! Banaras is
strewn with such irrational beliefs and blindly enacted rituals born out of mighty
59
myths.
A boatman believed that Kashi existed since that world came into being;
an archeologist asserted that Kashi was founded by humans in 2000 B.C. One is
subscribing to an illusion - sacred fiction; and the other is proclaiming his belief
Although their intention was to establish the truth of reality, neither of them was
even close to it. We shall consider this issue at a later time. In whatever humans
do, they have to face the fundamental existential issues: sorrow, death and
ignorance. Unless these impulses, agonies and issues are understood and
". SIVA: 0 Narada,Richard Chase in his essay "Myth as Literature" (In the
book Myth and Method edited by J. Miller) re -cognizes, to paraphrase him, that
the older writers seem to us to have neglected a simple and fundamental truth:
the word "myth" means story: a myth is a tale, a narrative, or a poem; myth is
literature and must be considered as an aesthetic creation of the human
conception. A myth need be no more philosophical than any other kind of
literature.
60
stage what those stories are, but now I shall be content to suggest that "story
telling" is one recurrent way of structuring and sustaining Banaras and other
cities, and it seems to me that it is the only successful way. What we really learn
at Kashi is about the tools for controlling cities and civilizations. In Kashi, the
sacred fiction is devoutly recited in the temples and other places set apart for that
purpose. In Kashi, myths govern everything with their canonical code of morality
and sheer power. There are as such no physical guidelines that can be seen as
separate from the general mythical conception of the city. Even the mundane
details of the day-to-day life are governed by mythical code.In the Berlin of Hitler
we saw one extreme of mass control and a set of illusions; at Kashi we see the
other extreme way of ordering the lives of people using powerful fiction with a
that sustains a city; not Truth. Truth would only lead one away from the unwise
12.SIVA: Freud talking about religion in general says (Civilization and its
Discontents, p.32): "A special importance attaches to the case in which this
attempt to procure a certainty of happiness and a protection against suffering
through a delusional remolding of reality is made by a considerable number of
people in common. The religions of mankind must be classified among the mass -
delusions of this kind. No one, needless to say, who shares the delusion ever
recognizes it as such." (Underscore mine)
61
pursuits of the city. It is fiction that sustains the city and its pursuits. Fiction is
sages, ascetics and epics of the mythical India; and there is the fiction of the city
of Kashi that fits into the larger work of sacred literature. Kashi was created at
the beginning of the universe and I am the presiding deity of the city. Rivers
guard the city, while the trident protects the countless temples and homes. The
people brought up in the mythical tradition see the world as a work of Sacred
fiction, wherein everything has a story woven constantly into the larger whole.
Narada, myths are, no doubt, constructions of mind; and they are illusions
so to say. Myths are devices to lead people into some unquestionable beliefs. With
their archetypal power and sacrality, they are employed to enthrall the
62
unquestioning masses and provide them with some "answers."' But, realize, 0
wise Narada, that no temporal process ever satisfies the three existential drives.
The means such as the mythologies, histories and monuments only divert one
from the quest for Truth and Immortality. However, let me make it clear that the
comes next), tell them stories as at Kashi - not reasons. HOW you put a thing can
make all the difference. If you want examples, then look around, look into
yourself, look at Kashi, look at all those thousands thronging the ghats and
reciting stories and look at the tragedies of Berlin and Ayodhya. What a tragedy
it is that man doesn't realize what he really needs and what he ought to pursue.
". SNA: Narada, the "answers" are naive and self-imposing. You may argue
that those "answers" are beautiful stories and metaphors, but, unfortunately, the
people in question are not children; they are grownup adults capable of
employing rational thought without fear or fatigue.
34.SIVA: Narada, Master Da Free John in his book The Dreaded Gomboo (p.
200) admonishes us about these illusions: "Conventional religion is just another
consumer product for neurotics who cannot release and let go of things, and who,
being in a self-toxified state physically, psychically and altogether, need to console
themselves with illusions. . . [Those illusion arej just a support for a being that
cannot be free, that cannot release itself."
63
Instead of (non)seeking Bliss, Eternity and Unity, they drown themselves in
The secret of Kashi's integrity is neither in its magnificent spires nor in its
vivacious ghats; the secret of Kashi is neither in its topography nor in its
traditional structures alone. The real secret of Kashi is wide open: it is the way
PEOPLE COME HERE TO DIE. And behold, Narada, they are only too
happy to die!! Narada, death is the happiest thing that can ever happen to you
in Kashi. It is SAID that even a dog can be blessed with liberation if it dies within
to4..
the Panch Kroshi. Even if you have led a miserable life, death in Kashi is SAID to
liberate you of all the agony: Moksha, eternal bliss, is the reward for dying in this
city. The invisible signs on thousands of temples, ghats and houses in Banaras
tacitly declare the eternal bargain: "Exchange your old physical bodies for new
and shiny astral ones at no cost!" Go to Manikarnika ghat and you can see scores
of people young and old, of all castes and both sexes, apparently unafraid of
death! It can't get any more irrational, Narada, nor more pragmatic. Not a single
64
soul questions the reality of eternity, Gods, demons, heavens and other stories of
Kashi's collective beliefs. Dozens of ghats with hundreds of temples are, therefore,
built in order to perform the rituals of sending the immortalized soul to higher
worlds! But if you introduce rationality into the city then the city as we know it
melts away into Truth. If you ask the people to think and reason out their lives
and existence, then, Narada, the structures fall down and cities cease to be
People in Kashi learn story telling right from the time their mothers sing
lullabies under the moonlit sky; the time they play in the streets, shrines and the
steps of the ghats and contemplate the emptiness of the other bank. When they
grow up, they see the whole world as a beautiful work of fiction: a work where
everything is well composed and is under the control of the author; the author
is at the center and there are a million authors inhabiting Kashi, visiting it,
imagining it. It is all imagination and illusion; and it is powerful and enthralling.
In the rugged undulation of the masculine land forms they see the trident
of Siva or Mount Meru. In the feminine curves of the sweeping crescent - the
Ganges -they see a mother. In the sky replete with lazy clouds is a theater where,
65
perhaps, a demon drinks Sura in the shadow of a mountain. The emptiness of that
bank is an unfolded blankness posed against the lurking tightness of the stony
complexity of this bank. An inclined sail, a crane, an inverted red ocean hanging
from the heavens, an onslaught of hoards of Rakshasas (demons), the swords and
clubs, tongues and horses. Place making, myth making: place makes myth, myth
makes place. But none of these illusions and fabrications lead you to what you
What distinguishes Banaras from other cities is that at Kashi the three
existential impulses are duly recognized and addressed. However, the city offers
to its citizens only symbolic and metaphorical substitutes in the place of real and
true answers. Faith is the key, fiction and rituals are the basis, temples, ghats and
ashrams are the result of those pursuits. It is the same three fundamental
impulses at play wherever humans are. From Los Angeles to Ladakh, and from
Boston to Banaras, it is the same three yearnings at play; but the things and ways
in which those are sought gives those cities different forms. If we dig deep
66
NARADA: 0 Mahadev, your argument so far has given rise to more questions
masses are controlled, ordered and even oppressed (by themselves) through
irrational means and methods. It also seems to me that you see cities as places of
illusion - beautiful or ugly; where people with unresolved intellect and conscience
compromise and hopeless mediocrity. 0 great Lord of the world, am I right to say
that cities are mere transitory passages for attaining freedom, wisdom and
happiness which lie beyond the passage itself? Is not the city like a boat or a
bridge which we must leave once we cross the river? Kindly relieve me of these
SIVA: 0 wise Narada, your realizations are correct. For cities to exist and
67
subservient to the dominant beliefs (a fake rationality). Myths, fiction and
pursuits, ignorance and conflict. Cities give shape to people's individual and
permanence of the physical city, it cannot withstand the power of the changing
ideas and ideals. See how the diffusion of fiction in the minds of the ones
". Siva: Hitler, as Erich Fromm describes in many of his books, mastered these
techniques, and materialized them in his public speeches where with his symbols,
stories and dramatic gestures he cast a spell on millions of people.But, we all
know where the Hitler episode culminated in the end: it ended in the same place
where once Alexander and Genghis Khan did: in a meaningless death.
". NARADA: 0 Lord, Krishnamurti once stated clearly that society cannot be
changed unless man changes. Man, you and others, have created these societies
for generations upon generations: we have all created these societies out of our
pettiness, narrowness, out of our limitations, out of our greed, envy, brutality,
violence, competition and so on. Unless each of us changes radically, society
. . .
68
educated in alphanumerical cities is resulting in the breakdown and meltdown
of the outskirts of Kashi? Look at this endless list of destroyed cities and places
in the former Yugoslavia. Masses are capable of both raising and ravaging whole
cities. What really matters is what the masses are led to believe about the world,
the universe and themselves. What the people think their individual and
collective self is is what is expressed in their deeds and cities. Man makes himself,
and man makes his cities in the image of his individual and collective self. At
Ayodhya, the place ten miles from here, where the Hindu -Muslim clash of faiths
resulted in reducing to dust a whole big old Mosque which is a thousand years
old. It was not the physical Mosque that was decimated, Narada, but a different
faith, set of beliefs and fiction that was symbolically destroyed. It was all
metaphorical. People saying, "let us imagine that this stone is a God and that
stone is a demon, or this tree is something else and that man is someone else."
People are lost in the imaginary world of symbols, structures and mythologies.
Narada, a real quest for reason, infinite happiness and freedom would
only take you away from the city and not into it. It will take you away from the
city, its aberrant pursuits, mediocrity and illusions. It will leave you in a world
69
of no fiction and bare reality. Reason takes a different course and discourse. If
you really want to look into the BASIS of things, the logic of things and the
ultimate reasons for things, then you better stayed out of the city. Boundless
There really are only two possibilities for the people: one is to leave the
mundane and ignorant pursuits of the cities in search of reason, Truth and
Happiness; and the other is to subscribe to the human irrationality and be content
with a fictitiously meaningful life - which is in fact hell. Whether or not we know
the way of Truth, we know certainly that the city-making pursuits do not lead
70
ARRIVAL AT SIVPURI
MONUMENT
Setting off for Sivpuri early in the morning, Siva and Narada reached the next pilgrimage
a little
halt by the evening. On the banks of the river Varana was Sivpuri with its wayside inn and
temple.
The weather slowly turned dark and cloudy and the sky wore a saree of lightning and
Narada,
thunder. Drop by drop, the rain started and grew into a heavy downpour. Siva, followed by
walked into the rain and into the river. The rain was the Ganges - the primordial female- and
there
stood in the rain Siva - the primordial man. The incense of the damp earth, the flow of the fresh
atmosphere
waters of the river and the rain of the monsoon, the ecstacy of the whole landscape: the
pilgrims began their
was right for a great revelation. Under the clouds and in the rain the divine
conversation.
NARADA: 0 Jagadeswar, a close look at Banaras reveals the fact that the people
here seek existential security through myths, history, monuments and rituals. I see
illusions in the mythical conceptions of the city and delusions in the historical and
materialistic conceptions of the city - both of which are presently shattering the
71
We hear a boatman saying with great faith that Kashi was created by the
Gods at the beginning of the universe and that you - the mighty Lord of the city -
have promised never to forsake Kashi. On the other side we hear an educated
five -thousand years and that most of it was constructed since the 1700s.
We hear the same boatman devoutly expressing his desire never to leave
Kashi because in Kashi lies the path to eternal bliss and liberation. The same
archeologist, who owns a car and a luxurious house on the periphery of Kashi
savors his televisions and the other commodities which comprise the
order to quench his existential thirst and to find the meaning of life in them.
SIVA: Narada, You always drag me into the essence of things. I am delighted.
The anomalies and conflicts you noticed are deeper than what is apparent: they
can be traced to the self and conceptions of each individual who dwells in the
city. Conflicting notions of power, myth and history are at play invisibly behind
this visible anarchy. And, as we have learned, the three fundamental drives are
72
at the root of this drama.
In the light of our understanding of basic human impulses, I will offer you
three perspectives on the problem which are necessary for a better comprehension
Humans are not born equal: they are born with different intellectual and
physical capabilities; they are also born into different contexts and circumstances;
they are born with different fates. Nor are the humans brought up toward
equality. As a result there will always be people with more power and people
with less power'. But, unfortunately, all humans possess the same life impulses:
impulses to be happy and to exist. And all of them are born into communities
where people compete with each other to fulfil their basic impulses. So, there will
be people who command others to do what they want and people who are
commanded and subjected to the coercion of the more powerful ones. Narada,
37.SIVA: Narada, what is power useful for? Unlike what Alfred Adler and
Nietzsche once thought, Power is not an end in itself. Power is used to achieve
certain materialistic goals in life. The drive to power is not a fundamental drive;
it could be further "traced down" to the three existential impulses that we have
arrived at earlier. In the everyday world, power is used toward unwise pursuits
which hardly solve man's existential problems.
73
the success of a city depends on how well it can resolve or enforce these
inequalities which inevitably exist amid the uniformity of impulses. The success
of a city depends, thus, not on its technology or sciences but on the systems of
However, let us not forget that once we assume irrationally that we need cities
by hook or by crook, our basis itself will be wrong. Such a path only echoes
existence and their biological existence with five senses, afforded only
Samkaracharya, the uncertainty of the reality of the so called outside world has
been debated thoroughly. Though neither science nor philosophy could establish
the true nature of the universe, they nevertheless affirm that the reality of the
world is not what we perceive and think it to be. For human beings, the world
is qualitative: it contains colors, smells, sounds, and other properties which the
objects themselves do not possess. Unless the Reality of the world is affirmed,
74
how can we ever build any system or argument upon something skeptical,
uncertain, doubtful, illusory and UNREAL? The major problem with various
theories of political science, economics, and urban design are that they start off
with the ASSUMPTION that the world as we perceive it is real. But, it needs no
deep thought to conclude that things are not what they appear to be, and that
For example look at that temple over there. Considering the visual aspect
of experience, you can see at any given point of time and space, only one
perspective of it: you can never "know" that temple as a totality of visual
phenomenon'. The totality of the universe is forever hidden from humans. The
true Reality is impenetrable by sensory perception steeped in spatio-temporal
That may appear simple, Narada, but whole civilizations are structured
75
around conventions of perception regarding the passage of time and the
"perspectives." You may also see that people, cities and civilizations are deluded
into the belief that any given perspective on reality is the same as Reality itself!
civilizations. One conception led to Kashi and the others led to the
Alphanumerical cities.
I shall now introduce the third perspective which had already been
discussed at the previous halt: that of fiction and how masses succumb to such
stories out of ignorance. People have all these limitations and illusions and with
The problem of perspectives was at play when the boatman and the archeologist
expressed their naive assertions about the origins of Kashi. It is a conflict between
the mythical and historical perspectives with both claiming to be the true
76
descriptions of reality. What we need to ask here is, what is being satisfied by
finding out the origins of the city, society and people. By knowing the remote
past we hope to embrace intellectually the whole expanse of time. Though the
individual lives for hardly seventy years, he identifies himself with his ancestors
and thus falls into the illusion that he himself has such a long past. The drive to
people seek eternal and permanent existence in the monuments of the city. Scores
of great philosophers have fallen into the same fallacy of mistaken identities.'
". Roderick Seidenberg in the book Post-historic Man bases his entire
argument on the fallacy that the societal history is equal to individual history.
This urge to equate can be traced down to the fundamental drive to live as long
as possible. He treats the entire society of individuals as one unit with one past
and one destiny.
4°.SIVA: Hegel, Marx, De Chardin, Gebser, Rollo May, Rifkin to name a few,
have repeatedly subscribed to the same fallacy as Seidenberg: they assumed that
collective destiny overrides the individual destiny. Hence, they came up with
such grandiose misconceptions as treating history as one inexorable force and the
human being as a helpless atom swept away in that stream. Some of them have
even proposed theories of ages: that human intelligence grows with time and that
we are now in a rational world where collective salvation is possible. What that
precisely means is that somewhere in the near future all the human beings are
going to be blessed miraculously with eternal bliss, immortal existence and
ultimate wisdom! Narada, what an imaginative fantasy it is. If you take a closer
look at it, all those theories subscribe to the historical conception of time which
77
Before we get into the argument any further, Narada, let me clarify what
viewing and a way of describing the time (past). Myth is also an account of the
past and a mode of imagining, perceiving and depicting the past. Neither of them
are absolutes, but they are the two dominant perspectives at play in Kashi and
That Kashi exists from the beginning of creation of the universe is a myth.
That Kashi was founded by stray Aryans in B.C. 2000 is an historical assertion.
That Adam and Eve are the human primordials is a myth; and that humans
evolved from Apes is an historical assertion. The historical perspective asserts that
there are times that can't be returned to, that they happened at "that" time. The
mythical vision works with the metaphor of a circle with man at the center - he
we are going to discuss in depth.I can only pity the ignorance that impeded them
from realizing that every individual is endowed with the same existential
impulses, and that each one of us has to struggle to (or cease the struggle to)
individually know the mystery of existence, realize the path to bliss and the secret
of immortality. I cannot experience your bliss or be immortal along with you.
There is no such thing as collective bliss.
78
can "metaphorically"' choose to reach any point without progressing or
regressing from any other. The historical view conceives of time as a straight line
with the past at one end and the future at the other; the present is only a
relentlessly into the irretrievable past called history. But, all these cases are merely
NARADA: 0 Lord, history is the past -the memory- structured into a narrative.
NARADA: It is not 0 Lord. We see the past in things that are present before us.
SIVA: OK. Let us look at that ruined temple over there. Now tell me where is its
41.SIVA: Narada, in neither cases is it possible to "really" go into the past. Just
because a myth or a fiction takes us on a trip to the past metaphorically, we
should not stick to them and seek eternity through them. We must find out if
there "really" is a past and if so how to experience that past directly. Only the
"real" experience should be our legitimate goal.
79
past?
SIVA: No, I am asking you to show me the past which you associate with that
imagination that we construct something called the past within our minds. If not
for our imaginations and mental constructions, there is no past. Without our
imagination, there is no past in reality. There is nothing called history that is "out
there" separate from ourselves and our imaginations. History is a fiction socially
too.
SIVA: Yes. That is what it is. That is what it is. There is time, there is history and
there is nostalgia. Then there are false identities which say "I was like that in the
80
named according to the season or lunar positions. But neither of them are
absolute measures. The reality of time is not being questioned here: only a
different way of conceiving, imagining, metaphorizing and perceiving it. But, you
see Narada, the historical mind which works with numbers falls into an illusion
of linear progression: 1780, 1880, 1881, 1882, 1990, 2000, . . . This numbering is
aptly followed by the illusion that bigger numbers indicate better times, which is
the modern myth of progress or evolution. Obviously you cannot repeat the
numbers as they are endless and inexhaustible. So, you travel in one direction. To
repetition. However, let us be cautious here, Narada. I am not making any effort
contrary, both the ways of conceiving the past are illusions. And both the paths
reveal the already asserted drive to exist forever, to live the whole expanse of
Let us take an example here. Look at that half-sunk, leaning temple on the
81
banks of the river. I shall present both mytho-poetic and historical accounts.
The boatman in whose boat I once travelled, said that the temple was sunk
due to a curse by a Sage who used to meditate in the location the temple now
stands. He said that the rich businessman who adamantly went on with the
construction of the temple was aptly punished by the curse of the Sage who was
said to be none other than myself in disguise. The boatman also said that he
worships the deity of that temple irrespective of the level the river.
The archeologist's account is different. He said that the temple was built
proper structural considerations. He also went on to deduce, from the style of the
You see Narada, mythical mind constructs a story around the incidents
(and not "intelligence"). It also ties that particular story to a larger work of fiction
- that of the myth of Kashi and me. And the historical mind stops at some dry
facts that don't relate to anything and dissolve the existence of the temple into an
82
archeological database catering to the scholarly needs of the so-called specialists.
The beauty of the temple, the ruined ruggedness of the tilted spire and the sheer
persistence of the structure are evident as a case of curse -struck splendor. By this
account the ruined temple communicates to the onlookers that human artifice is
not permanent and that destiny takes its toll. The Gods will have their say. In
stories, the reality of that temple remains the same; the boatman and the
their inner worlds. The temple is what they imagine it to be. But what is the
reality of the temple? How does the temple appear when seen from all possible
contrast, myth and fiction are built around planned forgetfulness - the ability to
forget the unnecessary, prune the particular and weave the remaining into an
archetypal story. Historical mind attempts to reach its objective by including all
the events and bringing them into one infinitely massive narrative; mythical mind
83
excludes the specifics, and extracts an archetypal and general story so as to live
the eternal present. You can see a historian fanatically storing and preserving
every needless detail and number: that Mr. President sneezed in Japan, or the
Queen went shopping at 3.45 pm on the 21st of July 1989. All present-day
are sought.
The historical conception of existence impedes and diverts one from the
identity from that mass of data (whether it is the unstructured data of "history"
or the fictional data of well structured mythology) and tries to find meaning in
the past imaginatively reconstructed in the mind. The historical mind says: "I
42.SIVA: Narada, Paul Valery observes that "History is the most dangerous
product evolved from the chemistry of the intellect. Its properties are well known.
It causes dreams, it intoxicates whole peoples, gives them false memories,
quickens their reflexes, keeps their old wounds open, torments them in their
repose, leads them into delusions either of grandeur or persecution, and makes
nations bitter, arrogant, insufferable, and vain. . History will justify anything.
.
84
belong to all of this, and that expansive feeling gives me a sense of eternal and
almost immortal existence." The mythical mind composes and builds images
meaningfully, but the identity -seeking drive is the same. Unfortunately in both
cases the drive to become large, eternal and to belong to something big is only
partially satiated. While the historical mind seeks eternity through the inclusion
specific events. But neither point of view succeeds in embracing eternity; the wise
mind discards both and starts questioning the notion of time and the search for
immortality altogether.
to those particular illusions, substantiate their pursuit with the argument that they
are looking for some truth, reality, ultimate causality and so on. I have already
There have been people trying to demonstrate that Romans and Greeks had better
cities and that then it was like "that"! Not realizing that historical arguments and
historical times are also constructions of mind, they propagate poor fiction and
85
the wounds open and keeps the old hatreds alive. A chaotic Bosnia, a fragmented
Russia, a burning India and the ailing countries of eastern Europe are examples
memory.
distant you are from your "roots" - breeds nostalgia. It breeds a desire for a return
to the imaginary good times of that imagined past. Nostalgia can wreck even the
mega -structures of the seemingly stable societies: the giant of Communism is now
shattered into pieces by some parochial and nostalgic sentiments of people who
longed for a return to their "ethnic roots." Cities were restructured and
and models'. Mythical consciousness also tries to satisfy the impulse for a
Siva: Narada, see for an elaborate description of such rituals, myths and
methods Mircae Eliade's Cosmos and History.
86
return to the past or possessing the past. To become nostalgic is no crime: it is
human. You have to deal with that inner call in the best way possible. So, either
you should have time -machines in every house, or mythologies and rituals
promising a continual resurrection of the past. Better yet, one might realize that
Let me further give you more examples of how various rituals in Kashi
deface the past intentionally. The temples are constantly repainted, renovated and
prevented from showing any signs of aging. The streets and houses are ritually
rejuvenated for every festival. In the cities of hell, which are typical of the modern
age, there are no adequate methods of countering the feeling of the relentless
metaphorically."
"SIVA: Narada, it has been said that the language of myth is metaphor.
Through rituals and other means, primordial times and primordial people are
invoked in the present at will. Architecture is a metaphorical and analogical
device. But, the spread of the "historical perspective" signified the death of
architecture, and the monopoly of the textual document. Text, photographs and
the electronic media are the major modes by which history is "preserved." There
is a fundamental difference between text, other media and architecture in that
87
Well, I don't need to go any further to expose the roots of the conflict that
you have noticed in Kashi: the clash between the spiritual ideal and the lure of
material gains; the clash between mythologies and history. At Kashi you are
witnessing the battle between the Gods of creation and the apes of Darwin.
for the hints of the past and hopes for the future (though he doesn't realize this
point). History is the way you categorize, imagine and treat things that exist in
the present itself. History does not exist in reality and there is no such thing as N101)1
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a "past" that we could experience as a reality. Reality is in the present. What you
88
take as historical realities are constructions of the mind that are not "out there".45
46
what is. In what is is reality. There is no Rome and Piranesi other than the ones
in your mind, no Le Corbusier other than the one your mind constructs, no
history other than your imaginative re-creation of the past. Good imagination
Bharata. Bad imagination and false perception result in history books and in the
alphanumerical cities.
as
NARADA: That is quite true, sir. Ken Wilber made a similar comment in
his No Boundary: "For although I do not directly see the past, nor feel it, nor
touch it, can remember it. The mystic agrees that when I think of the past, all
. . .
I really know is a certain memory - but, he adds, that memory is itself a present
experience."
SIVA: Narada, the difference between history and literature is the way you
'16.
prepare your mind to look at them: A book called "Russian History 1740-1920" is
viewed differently than if it were to bear the title "The wrath of the Czar - a
novel." Of course, you then realize what a poor fiction it is. Narada, let me
remind you that both the titles are a way of interpreting reality, but, shouldn't be
mistaken to reality itself.
89
running around and rushing into the future via eight-lane highways and
hundred -story buildings. Once ambition dies and wisdom and proper thought
stop spreading out, growing high and exploding violently. Narada, unless the
change occurs at the level of self, even the strongest walls and strictest laws are
ordering principles are going to come to your rescue. But, Narada, the trouble
here is, that the one who truly realizes what is, would be rendered incapable of
would lead to the Alphanumerical cities. But, a true course of reason and quest
'. SIVA: Narada, Krishnamurti once observed, to paraphrase him, that the
theories of better cities or ideal cities are unwise pursuits in themselves which
would never take one closer to the Truth and bliss. Revolution within society is
like the mutiny of prisoners who want better food and clothes within the prison.
But, the revolt born of rationality is like an individual breaking away from the
society, and that he calls creative revolution.
90
for perpetual happiness would only take you away from all that.
Cities, in
themselves, are places of meaningless pursuits.'
".SIVA: By meaning I mean the way humans reason out the relationships
between various things and their existence. By meaninglessness I mean that the
failure of the pursuits of humans in a city to relate to the fundamental and
ultimate questions of existence, Narada. By the time the people are disillusioned
by the reality of existence death devours them and leaves a legacy of a
meaningless past behind them.
91
ON THE WAY BACK
Having left the last canonical halt on the pilgrimage, the pilgrims head back to Manikarruka
SIVA: We have traversed a long path, 0 Narada. We have explored, debated and
discovered many things. Here we are on the way back, returning to the bounds
NARADA: At the end of the pilgrimage, 0 Lord, I feel that I now have a clearer
perception. I am now equipped with a tool, a sword and a torch with which I can
The world is not the same again for me. I landed in a Banaras which was
romantic, surreal, secure and much different. I am now returning to a city whose
92
depends on what we think we need. In the end, what we think we need is what
governs our perceptions, methods and goals. Therefore, the logical conclusion is
that unless we are absolutely clear about what we need, we cannot study
anything. Hence the goal of our dialogues has been to attain absolute clarity and
rationality of thought.
Humans live according to what they perceive they need. Their perceptions
of their needs may change whether or not their needs do. In our exposition of
human nature and needs, we had identified certain irreducible and fundamental
impulses of human beings. All of human pursuits can be traced down to those
existential essences. Beginning with the premise that the city is the primary
domain of human pursuits, we had arrived at the conclusion that the way city is
perceived and made depends on what the people think they ought to pursue in
their lives. The form of the city, therefore, is a direct function of a people's
It is clear from our understanding of human nature that human needs are
the same no matter where people live. Immortal and ceaseless existence, Truth
and Bliss are all that human beings have ever needed, and will ever need. And,
93
as we have seen, these infinities can never ever be achieved by clinging to things,
That a dip in the Ganges would purge them of all sins; that death within
the bounds of Banaras would free them of all sorrow; that worshipping a God
would bring them boons, would then appear differently if the people realize what
is; we are ending this journey with the realization that beneath the superficialities,
Banaras is, in essence, no different from the other human habitats. Although the
ways in which the existential goals are pursued may differ from city to city, the
Self is the fountainhead of life, and self is the subject as well as the object
of life. Existence, knowledge and joy are the fundamental drives of life. This
realization has to dawn on the people for any meaningful action to take place.
94
However, these three categories are not a mere checklist of things; recognizing the
essential nature of these drives is only the beginning of a journey toward Truth,
Eternity and Bliss. Narada, seeking infinities in transient and ephemeral things is
unwise and ridiculous. Only a rigorous and passionate rationality with legitimate
Banaras, despite addressing the existential issues more directly than any
other city, fails to move beyond the sphere of metaphors, fiction and symbols
imposed by the religion. In this regard it is no different than any other city. It is
In the end, 0 Narada, we are returning to the city, but like a drop of water
on the lotus leaf, we shall remain freely in the city without clinging to its forms,
pursuits and beliefs. Whether we return to the city or not makes little difference
to us.
95
AT MANIKARNIKA GHAT
AUTHOR: 0 patient reader, here ends the dialogue and here ends the fiction. The
whether to be or not to be a part of the city -making pursuits. However, the drama
When the discourse ends, dawn is almost there. The moment our pilgrims
step onto the grand steps of the oldest theater of the world - Manikarnika ghat -
the world is filled with splendor. A thousand conch shells sound -off in rapture.
all the thirty -million Gods riding those herds of Indra. Ganges is ecstatically rising
step by step to touch the footsteps of her Lord. The mist clears off and the blanket
of eternity is unveiled on the "other bank." Ten -thousand devotees chant the Siva -
Lord Agni flares in brilliant reds as he transforms the ephemeral into the
96
eternal. The blue-black smoke from the burning pyres swirls into the sky and
,1116,0111
A great fiction is enacted with supreme faith and fidelity. The city for
dying, the city of liberation, metaphorically echoing the presence of the other
The worn-off pieces of the dilapidated palm -leaf umbrella flutters in the
morning breeze, as the slender bamboos hold high the lamps for the ancestors in
the heavens.
Narada and Siva discard their disguise. The great Sage bows and salutes
to the Lord and the Lord solemnly blesses the eternal traveler. Playing his
the fresh memories of his pilgrimage, Sage Narada rises into the clouds and
departs on yet another journey. And the Lord of Kashi, invisibly walks into the
veins of the labyrinth of the "Never Forsaken City" - thronged by the animals,
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