Patterning Italian Ren Gowns

MAESTRA SUZANNE DE LA FERTÉ
PATTE R N I NG I TA L IA N
R E N A IS S A N CE G OWN S
FOCUSING ON FLORENCE AND VENICE
1490 - 1530
Table of Contents
WOMEN’S CLOTHING ............................................................................................................................. 4

LAYERS....................................................................................................................................................... 4
ESSENTIAL ACCESSORIES ............................................................................................................................ 5
Headwear............................................................................................................................................... 5
Veils ....................................................................................................................................................... 5
FABRICS ...................................................................................................................................................... 6
SILK ............................................................................................................................................................ 6
WOOL ......................................................................................................................................................... 6
DESIGNS ..................................................................................................................................................... 6
VELVET....................................................................................................................................................... 6
SILK FABRIC TYPES .................................................................................................................................... 7
DYES AND COLORS ..................................................................................................................................... 7
PERIOD PORTRAITS ................................................................................................................................ 9
1480 ........................................................................................................................................................... 9
Florence ................................................................................................................................................. 9
Milan .....................................................................................................................................................10
bologna .................................................................................................................................................10
1490 ..........................................................................................................................................................11
Florence ................................................................................................................................................11
venice ....................................................................................................................................................12
Milan .....................................................................................................................................................13
Siena .....................................................................................................................................................13
1500 ..........................................................................................................................................................14
Florence ................................................................................................................................................14
venice ....................................................................................................................................................15
Mantua ..................................................................................................................................................16
1510 ..........................................................................................................................................................16
florence .................................................................................................................................................16
venice ....................................................................................................................................................17
1520 ..........................................................................................................................................................18
florence .................................................................................................................................................18
venice ....................................................................................................................................................19
1530 ..........................................................................................................................................................19
florence .................................................................................................................................................19
venice ....................................................................................................................................................20
rome ......................................................................................................................................................20
urbino....................................................................................................................................................21
THE BASIC PATTERN .............................................................................................................................22
Measurements .......................................................................................................................................23
Bodice (Busto / petto) ...........................................................................................................................24
Skirt.......................................................................................................................................................25
Sleeves ..................................................................................................................................................26
ALTERING A SIDE-LACED PATTERN INTO A BACK-LACED PATTERN.............................................................27
ALTERING THE PATTERN FOR TIME PERIOD AND PLACE ..............................................................................28
1490s.....................................................................................................................................................28
1500s.....................................................................................................................................................32
1510s.....................................................................................................................................................36
1520s.....................................................................................................................................................38
Patterning Italian Renaissance Gowns: Focusing on Florence and Venice (1480 – 1530)
Maestra Suzanne de la Ferté, September 2015.
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1530s.....................................................................................................................................................40
PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER ...............................................................................................................43
Bodice ...................................................................................................................................................43
Skirt.......................................................................................................................................................45
THE CAMICIA ...........................................................................................................................................47
THE FAZZOLETTO ..................................................................................................................................48
THE BRACHE ............................................................................................................................................49
LINEN DRAWERS EMBROIDERED IN SILVER AND SILVER-GILT THREAD.......................................................49
WOMEN’S DRAWERS, SECOND HALF OF SIXTEENTH CENTURY .................................................................50
LINEN DRAWERS, EMBROIDERED WITH POLYCHROME AND METAL THREADS ............................................51
THE CALZE ................................................................................................................................................52
STOCKINGS OF ELEONORA DE TOLEDO, 1562 ............................................................................................52
THE GIORNEA ..........................................................................................................................................53
THE CIOPPA ..............................................................................................................................................56
THE MANTELLO ......................................................................................................................................60
BIBLIOGRAPHY .......................................................................................................................................62
CONTACT THE AUTHOR/ARTIST .......................................................................................................64
NOTES .........................................................................................................................................................65
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PA T T E R N I N G I T A L I A N
R E N A I S S A N C E G OW N S
FOCUSING ON FLOR ENCE AND VENI CE, 1490 - 1530
WOM E N ’ S C L OT H I N G
LAYERS
Women’s clothing was worn in 3 principal layers:
Informal Formal
Chemise Simple Dress Over-Gown
Camicia Gamurra / Camurra / Giornea / Veste or Vestitio Cioppa (Florence)
Camora (Florence) (Venice)
Zupa / Zipa / Socha (N. Roba / Vestimento
Italy) (Elsewhere)
Cotton, Linen, or Silk Silk* (summer)
Wool (winter)
Embroidery at neck and *Summer silk is also known Oten sleeveless, its main Lined, open down the
wrist as “cotta”. More formal feature was that it was center front, with sleeves.
than the winter woolen open at the sides and the Oten lined or trimmed with
version, it was often worn front. fur.
alone over the camicia. Seldom made with a train.
Often made with some sort
of train.
1491 – A Greek woman, Sleeves, attached with
recommended by Costanza aghetti (laces) were often
d’Avalos, ‘who produces made in a contrasting or
such delicate work with a complementary fabric.
needle’ went to work for
Isabella d’Este. This
woman was presumably
taught the traditions of
Greek embroidery and
worked in fine geometrical
patterns.
1501 – The Contessa di 1466 – Trousseau of 1499 – Bartolommeo
Mesocco’s inventory Nannina de Medici, wife of Pucci’s wife had 3 velvet
contained (in addition to Bernardo Rucelli, contained cioppa. Two were black –
her every day camicias), a cotta of white damask lined with martin
two camicias of “tela di brocaded in gold flowers (marturo), one of
renso” with “petti fati a la with sleeves of pearls. brownish-red velvet
Napolitana” were worked (velluto chermisj paonazzo)
with embroidery in gold with open sleeves (maniche
thread and black silk. aperte) lined with ermine
(ermellini).
To visit someone “in
gamurra” implies an
informal visit.
As an alternative to the giornea or cioppa/vestimento (or in addition to), some form of cloak could
be worn:
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 Mantello – a practical cloak worn (over all clothes for warmth and protection against the rain)
draped over the shoulders. **In paintings, the Madonna almost always wears a mantello over a
gamurra.**
 Mantechello
 Mongile / Mongino / Monzino – a cloak with sleeves, open in the front, worn long to the
ground.
 Sbernia – a short cloak, lined, often with fur, worn slung over one shoulder “a la apostolica”.
 Passatempo – a short cloak, open at the sides, similar to the giornea.
ESSENTIAL ACCESSORIES
 stockings (calze),
 partlet (collarless – colletti or with collars - gorgiera),
 handkerchief (fazzoletto),
 jewels,
 embroidery,
 gloves (guanti),
 buttons (bottoni / maspilli)
 belts (beca / becca for belts to which stockings are attached) or (cintola / cintura / cingola for
belts worn over clothing),
 veils &
 purses (borsa / borsetta).
HEADWEAR
 Balzo – large bulbous headdress, popular in both the early 15th and mid-16th centuries.
 Benda / Binda – length of silk used for covering, wrapping, or intertwining with the hair.
 Berretta – a form of close-fitting cap, usually rounded or semi-conical, similar to a coif, often
decorated with embroidery or made of silk damask or satin.
 Cappello – wide-brimmed straw hat, sometimes lined with black silk or velvet, trimmed around
the brim with black or gold fringe, used when traveling.
 Frenello – hair ornament of a string of pearls, entwined around twists of real and false hair and
fine silk veil.
 Ghirlanda / Grillanda – garland, often taking the form of a padded roll, covered with rich fabric,
sometimes covered with gems or feathers
 Lenza – ribbon or hair braid, tied around the crown of the head, often decorated with a jewel
over the forehead.
 Reta – a knotted net of silk or gold threads, often incorporating pearls (sometimes other gems),
worn over the hair.
 Trinzale – a piece of fine cloth that covers the hair – usually the back of the head, often worn
with long covered roll of hair (coazzone) hanging down the back.
 Vespaio – “wasp’s nest”, netted headdress, often made of strings of pearls.
VEILS
Customs, politics, and geography influenced the style of dress in the various regions of Italy. Veils
and how they were worn was one of the more noticeable indications of where the wearer was from.
In Bologna, a special type of fazzoletto (silk scarf) or partlet was worn around the neck. Florentine
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women wore silk veils in a similar manner. In 1476, the Florentine, Carlo Strozzi, awarded a prize to
Giovan Petro di Padova for introducing to Florence the Bolognese art of making silk veils (veli
crespi). These neck coverings were a product of sumptuary laws that, in 1464, ordered that dress
necklines be no more than 3.3 cm or about 1.25 inches from the base of the neck. This explains the
sudden appearance of this accessory in the later half of the Quattrocento.
FA B R I C S
Florence contained 270 wool workshops and 83 silk workshops.
SILK
In addition to local silk from Lucca (Tuscany), Milan, and Mantua, Italy imported silk cultivated in
Sicily, Spain, the Levant, and the Far East. Italian merchants purchased large quantities of silk from
the markets at Bursa in Turkey and Aleppo and Damascus in Syria where it was shipped from
Mediterranean ports like Beirut.
 Venice had the strongest relationship with the Orient (Turkey).
 Perugia was famous for woven towels of linen with figurative end borders.
 Raccognini (near Turin) was famous for its ribbons.
 Florence produced silk with a pomegranate design as well as textiles with figures used for
orphreys (decorative bands used for ecclesiastical vestments) and some heraldic figures.
Florentine silks tended to include smaller-scale stylized floral patterns.
WOOL
 The highest grade of woolen cloth (made from English wool) was made in Florence. Tuscany
bought wool mainly from the Cotswolds (“Chondisgualdo”) especially from Northleach &
Buford, also Cirencester & Winchester.
 Milan also produced fine woolens.
 Genoa was known for producing cheap, low-grade wool from North Africa.
 Venice produced coarse woolen cloth for home use.
DESIGNS
After 1450, repeats of the pomegranate design in textiles changed from diagonal to horizontal or
vertical.
 Vertical – branching stem, pomegranates (increasing size) on right/left, length of repeat
(sometimes more than a yard) is greater than the width from selvedge to selvedge. (*Around
1500, the “organic” qualities of the pomegranates, palmettes, and pinecones are frozen into a
“classical” arrangement and remain unchanged until 1550.)
 Horizontal – more static (regarding change) than the vertical design, rhythmic sequence of ogees,
floral rosettes (typical of Florence).
Distinctive Italian style – pomegranate velvets and gold brocades – especially the pomegranate split
open to reveal the “fertile” seeds within.
VELVET
The relationship between Italy and the Orient was very strong. From 1450 – 1500 it is almost
impossible to distinguish between Italian and Turkish brocaded velvets. Two differences:
 Metal thread in European renaissance velvets was different from Turkish. The European metal
thread was either silver with a largely copper alloy or gilded, but never pure gold.
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 The Turkish metal thread was also silver, but with only a trace of copper. This resulted in a much
softer metallic thread (when worn, the soft metal rubs away).
SILK FABRIC TYPES
From a 15th century treatise on silk production comes the following graded list for silk yarn:
1. Taffetas – needs “sharpest of tones”
2. Damask (damaschino) – little less clear, more subtle in tone
3. Velvet (velluto) – not as clear as damask
4. Satin (zetani rasi)
5. Voided Velvet (zetani vellutati)
6. Brocade (broccato)
7. Baldacchini – occasionally used for clothing, more often used for canopies or hangings
The different grades of silk produced in the Renaissance can be looked at in a different way.
 First-grade silk (seta leale) was made by carefully unwinding an intact cocoon in a basin of
hot water to form one long, very strong, continuous thread.
 Second-choice silk, also known as double-silk (referred to in period texts as seta di doppi),
was produced when two silkworms were put too close together in the raisings during their
metamorphosis, and so ended up wrapped in a single cocoon. This silk closely resembles
today’s douppioni silk.
 Waste-silk (strazze de seda filada ) or spun silk noil, was produced from broken cocoons.
DYES AND COLORS
Three principal dyestuffs were used for red:

1. Kermes (chermisi) Best quality. Imported from the Far East (Constantinople). Made from
the dried bodies of the kermes shield louse, these insects were found on the “kermes oak”
and looked like scarlet berries.
2. Madder (garanza)
3. Brazil-wood (verzino)
Other colors were made from combinations of dyes and mordants:

1. Mulberry (morello) – a deep purplish color
2. Peacock (pavronazzo) – also a deep purplish color
3. Vivid violet (alessandrino) – made from oricello (a type of lichen)
4. Yellows (zafferano) -- made from saffron
5. Blues – made from indigo and woad
6. Blacks – made from oak galls
7. Greys (berettino or bigio)
8. Reddish-brown (monachino)
The price of textiles depended on the cost of materials used and the intricacy of the design. The most
expensive fabrics were the gold and silver brocaded velvets. A treatise, published by Gargiolli,
contains a list of prices for dyeing cloth:
Kermes Twice Soldi 40 “cremisi” worn by the most important people

(the 8 ambassadors of the Florentine embassy to
the Pope)
Kermes Once 20
In Grain Di Grana 12
Greenish Brown Verde Bruno 40
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Vivid Violet Alessandrino 40
Kermes Pagonazzo 35
Grain Pagonazzo 35 “rosato” (worn by the 72 companions of the
ambassadors of the Florentine embassy to the
Pope)
Brazilwood Pagonazzo 35
Greens Verde 20
Vermillions Vermigli 25
Deep Blues Azzuri 24
Greys 12
Ochre Tanè 12
Sumac Yellow Giallo di 12
Scotano
Between Red and Zaffiorato 25
Yellow
Light Blue Inciannomati 12
Black 15
Pale Colors Sbiaditi 12
Saffron Yellow Giallo di 13
Zafferano
*The “rosato” color was closely associated with woolen cloth.
Mourning was denoted by wearing dull and dark colors: mulberry, blue, green, reddish-brown, and
black. In 1438, in Venice, after the plague, it was forbidden to wear mourning colors – black, green,
or blue.
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P E R I OD P O RT R A I T S
1480
FLORENCE
1480 Ghirlandaio: Portrait of a Lady 1488 Ghirlandaio: Portrait of a Lady

(Giovanna degli Albizzi Tornabuoni)
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MILAN
1486 Leonardo da Vinci: Lady with the Ermine (Cecilia Gallerani)
BOLOGNA
1480 Roberti: Portrait of Ginevra Bentivoglio
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1490
FLORENCE
1490 Ghirlandaio: Birth of Mary Detail 1490 Ghirlandaio:

Birth of St John the Baptist Detail
1490 Baldovinetti: Portrait of a Lady in Yellow
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VENICE
1492 Carpaccio: The Pilgrims Meet the Pope 1495 Carpaccio Meeting of the Betrothed Couple
Detail Detail
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MILAN
1490 Leonardo da Vinci: La belle Ferroniere (Lucrezia Crivelli)
SIENA
1490 Neroccio de Landi: Portrait of a Woman (Alessandra Piccolomini?)
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1500
FLORENCE
1505 Raphael: The Woman with the Unicorn 1506 Raphael: Portrait of Maddalena Doni
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VENICE
1505 Carpaccio: The Departure of Ceyx 1500 Bellini: Miracle of the Cross at the
Detail Bridge of St Lorenzo Detail
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MANTUA
1500 Leonardo da Vinci: Isabella d Este

1510
FLORENCE
1513 del Sarto: Birth of the Virgin detail 1516 Pontormo: Lady with a Basket of Spindles
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1514 del Sarto: Portrait of the Artists Wife 1516 Raphael: Woman With Veil
VENICE
1511 Titian: Miracle of the Newborn Child 1515 Licinio: Portrait of a Lady
Detail
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1514 Titian: Sacred and Profane Love Detail 1515 Cariani: The Seduction
1520
FLORENCE
1520 Bacchiacca: A Lady with a Nosegay 1520 Bacchiacca: The Preaching of St John the
Baptist Detail
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VENICE
1520 Bordone: Venetian Lovers 1520 Veneto: Portrait of a Venetian Lady
1530
FLORENCE
1531 Bronzino: A Daughter of Matteo 1533 Bronzino: Portrait of a Lady

Sofferoni
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VENICE
1530 Licinio: Portrait of a Woman 1530 Bordone: Portrait of a Woman
ROME
1533 Parmigianino: Roman Courtesan
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URBINO
1535 Titian: La Bella Urbino (Eleanora de Gonzaga, Duchess of Urbino)
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T H E B A S I C PA T T E R N
The easiest method is to start with another pattern and alter that pattern. Having someone drape you
is also good. If neither of these options is available, here’s what to do:
Figure 1
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MEASUREMENTS
A Measure above the bust, directly under the arms, all the
way around.
B Measure below the bust, all the way around.
C Measure the natural waistline, all the way around.
D Measure from just under the arm to the outermost point

of the shoulder.
E Measure from the outermost point of one shoulder to the

outermost point of the other shoulder
F Measure the points parallel with “D”, about halfway

between the outermost point of the shoulder and the
curve of the neck.
G Measure from the centerpoint of one shoulder to the

centerpoint of the other shoulder.
H Measure the distance between the “above bust” and

“under bust” lines.
I Measure the distance between the “above bust” and

“natural waistline” lines.
J Measure the distance from the “under bust” line to the

floor. (Be sure to add additional inches to account for
chioppines if you are wearing them.)
K Measure the distance from the “natural waistline” line to

the floor. (Be sure to add additional inches to account for
chioppines if you are wearing them.)
L This measurement is taken in the back only. Measure the

distance between the “above bust” line and the back
neckline.
M This measurement is taken in the back only. Optional -

Measure the distance between the imaginary back
shoulder-straps at the point of the back neckline.
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BODICE (BUSTO / PETTO)
Note: You may have to play with the angle of the shoulder strap.
Draw your pattern like the diagram on paper, based on the measurements you have taken.
Using muslin, make a mockup of the bodice and check the fit. If it gapes in the neck, move the angle
of the shoulder strap towards the neck (Figure 2). If it gapes near the arm, move the angle toward
the arm (Figure 3).
Figure 2: Standard Front Figure 3: Angled Shoulders
If the bottom of the bodice does not fit snugly, angle the side seams or angle the center fold.
Figure 4 Standard Figure 5 Angled Side Figure 6 Angled Fold
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The back is patterned much the same as the front. Play with the angle of the shoulder seams as well
(Figure 7).
Figure 7 Back Bodice
Put the pattern on paper making sure not to forget to add SEAM ALLOWANCES.
SKIRT
If you are using thin fabric, cut straight panels. I usually use 2 yards for front and 2 yards for back. If
the fabric is heavy, gores or a-line cutting may be used to limit the amount of fabric in the pleats.
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SLEEVES
Pieced sleeves (Figure 8)

a. Measure upper arm
b. Measure above elbow
c. Measure below elbow
d. Measure wrist
e. Measure shoulder to elbow
f. Measure elbow to wrist
Figure 8: Measurement
After the initial pattern has been made, cut the pattern about 2” from center. Move that piece to the
other side and reattach. If the lower sleeve has a different shape, do the same with it.
Figure 9: Sleeve Pattern
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ALTERING A SIDE-LACED PATTERN INTO A BACK-LACED PATTERN
1. Take your side-laced pattern (without the added seam allowance) and tape the front bodice
to the back bodice.
2. Draw a line (at the same angle as your shoulder strap) from the sleeve of the back bodice to
the bottom of the back bodice.
3. Cut along this line. You now have two new pattern pieces that should look like the ones on
the right (above).
4. Be sure to add your seam allowances to your new patterns.
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ALTERING THE PATTERN FOR TIME PERIOD AND PLACE
1490s
28
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The under-gown (gamurra) has a moderately high square neckline and the bodice ends just below the
bust-line. The shoulders and upper chest are covered (for modesty) by a sheer partlet that seems to
attach at the midpoint of the bodice and just under each arm. When seen in public, the Florentine
woman wears an over-gown (cioppa) that has a v-opening in front and drapes loosely over the
gamurra. Sleeves (meniche) use a minimum amount of material and can be either a single piece of
material or a simple two-part pieced sleeve. Each of these sleeve types lace up the back and are
attached to the bodice by lacing.
The loose-sleeved chemise (camicia) can be seen just barely peeking out at the neckline and wristline.
More of the camicia can be seen in puffs between the bodice and top sleeve, between the top sleeve
and bottom sleeve, and where the sleeves lace shut.
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The under-gown (gamurra) has a moderately high round neckline and the side-laced bodice ends just
below the bust-line. No evidence was found of Venetian women using partlets to cover their
shoulders and chest in the paintings I examined. When seen in public, an over-gown (cioppa) is
worn that has a v-opening in front and a fitted bodice. Sleeves (meniche) can either be similar to the
Florentine style or can be a two-part heavily-slashed pieced sleeve.
The loose-sleeved chemise (camicia) can be seen just barely peeking out at the neckline and wrist line.
and bottom sleeve, at the sleeve slashes, and where the sleeves lace shut.
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1500s
32
33
The main change in the Florentine gamurra of the 1500s seems to be the presence of an equal
number of front-laced and side-laced gowns. The gamurra bodice still has a relatively high, square
neckline and partlets are still used to cover the shoulders and upper chests. However, the sleeves
(meniche) have changed from the relatively tight two-part pieced sleeve to a loose, almost bag-
shaped, single-piece sleeve design. Very few over-gowns (cioppa) are seen in the portraits of this
time period that I examined.
More of the camicia can be seen in puffs between the bodice and top sleeve.
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The main change in the Venetian gown (gamurra) of 1500 seems to be mainly in the increased
ornamentation of the neckline and the fact that the neckline has lowered slightly. The sleeves
(meniche) are still closely fitting, but have changed from the two-part sleeve to the single-part sleeve.
The v-shaped opening of the over-gown (cioppa) has widened to show more of the side- or back-
laced gamurra underneath.
and bottom sleeve, and where the sleeves lace shut.
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1510s
The lady of 1510 Florence wears a side-laced gamurra with a lower neckline than that of the previous
decade. Very few partlets are still worn, although those gamurra with very low necklines (like those
found in Venice) are normally worn with a high necked camicia. Gowns are fuller, with more of that
fullness echoed in the sleeves (meniche). Two types of sleeves are common – the very full single
pieced sleeve and the very full top sleeve with fitted bottom sleeve pictured at the right above.
The loose-sleeved chemise (camicia) can be seen at the neckline and wrist line. More of the camicia
can be seen in puffs between the bodice and top sleeve.
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The well-dressed Venetian woman of 1510 wears even lower necklines than the previous decade.
Often, the neckline is so low that only the camicia covers the nipples. Sleeves (meniche) are now
very full (similar to Florentine gowns in their fullness) and cartridge pleating of sleeves can be seen in
several portraits of the period. Very few over-gowns (cioppa) are seen.
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1520s
The Florentine woman of 1520 wears a side-laced gamurra similar to that of the previous decade
except that the bodice bottom has dropped from just under the bust line to nearer the natural waist..
Very few partlets are still worn, although those gamurra with very low necklines (like those found in
Venice) are normally worn with a high necked camicia. Gowns are fuller, with more of that fullness
echoed in the sleeves (meniche). Again, as in 1510, two types of sleeves are common – the very full
single pieced sleeve and the very full top sleeve with fitted bottom sleeve pictured at the right above.
The loose-sleeved chemise (camicia) can be seen at the neckline and wrist line. More of the camicia
can be seen in puffs between the bodice and top sleeve.
38
39
Two main styles of gamurra are found being worn by Venetian women in 1520. One with the very
low neckline (similar to that found in the previous decade) and the other with a low, round or square
neckline that is laced in front. Unlike lacing of previous years, these front laced gowns seem
designed to show the camicia underneath since they are tied with several inches left open. Like the
Florentine gowns, dropping the bodice bottom to the natural waistline seems popular. As in the
previous decade, sleeves (meniche) are now very full and cartridge pleating of sleeves can be seen in
several portraits of the period. Very few over-gowns (cioppa) are seen.
1530s
The Florentine gamurra of 1530 is side- or back-laced with a natural waistline. The low square
neckline is used with a very high-necked camicia that is often decorated with blackwork. The two-
part sleeves (meniche) have extremely full tops with close fitting bottoms. Often the sleeves are
slashed or gathered decoratively.
40
41
The Venetian gamurra of 1530 is front- or side-laced with a natural waistline. The low square (or
rounded) neckline is used with a camicia that has a similar gathered neckline. Occasionally a sheer
partlet-type covering is used to cover the shoulders and upper chest. The two-part sleeves
(meniche) have extremely full tops with close fitting bottoms. Single-part leg-of-mutton shaped
sleeves with many slashings can also be found.
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P U T T I N G I T A L L TOG E T H E R
BODICE
If you are using a thin fabric, interface completely the front and the back; then, canvas with
interfacing (like craft bond) on the sides. Canvassing is layering interfacing in decreasing sizes to
create a firm line without boning (Figure 10).
Figure 10: Bodice Canvassing
Put bodice front and lining right sides together. Sew neckline, around armholes and down side
(Figure 11).
Figure 11: Bodice Front & Lining
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Put bodice back and lining right sides together. Sew neckline, around armholes and down side
(Figure 12).
Figure 12: Bodice Back & Lining
Clip seams, turn right side out and iron. Turn back wrong side out. Leave front right side out. Insert
front into back between lining and outer fabric. Sew across shoulders. Turn back right side out
(Figure 13).
Figure 13: Bodice Back to Front
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This example shows the finished bodice - only the bottom is open (Figure 14).
Figure 14: Finished Bodice
SKIRT
Gore Skirt:
Sew front panels together. Sew back panels together. Sew side seams starting 9 inches from the top
(Figure 15).
Figure 15: Gore Skirt
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Straight Panel Skirt:
Sew side seams starting 9 inches from the top (Figure 16).
Figure 16: Straight Skirt
Both Skirts:
Iron seams open. Finish the 9” gap in both sides by sewing, turning under twice, down one side and
up the other (Figure 12).
Figure 17: Side Seam Finishing
Pleat the skirt onto the bottom of the bodice. Whipstitch the lining. Hem the skirt as normal.
After attaching the skirt, add buttonholes to the sides of the bodice for lacing, or use grommets,
eyelets, etc. as fastening for the gown.
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THE CAMICIA
This 16th century camicia, from the ‘Realm of Venus’ website

(http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/extcam5.htm) is
taken from plates 163 and 164 in the section discussing reticello
lace of the book “Old Italian Lace”. The original is located in the
Civic Museum of Milan. While this camicia, with its exquisite
lace details, is much more elaborate than the camicia worn by St.
Ursula in Carpaccio’s painting, it does show the rounded neck
and the wrist closure details quite well.
The camicia pictured to the

right is from Cesare Vicellio’s
De gli Habiti antichi et moderni
di Diverse Parti del Mondo. This
book was published between
1589 and 1590. Cesare Vicellio, a woodcut artist, lived in
Venice all of his life, so it is fairly safe to assume its
reliability.
The camicia was the piece of clothing worn next to the skin. It protected the costly silks, wools, and
laces used in making the camora from body oils and sweat. The camicie (plural of camicia) were
most likely made of fine linen or silk. The camicia was often embroidered (as simply or elaborately as
desired) in a monochrome style such as blackwork. Late in the SCA period, lace became popular to
embellish the camicia (as shown by the photograph above).
While not an extant physical camicia from the late 15th century, we do have an image of a camicia
from one of Carpaccio’s paintings:
47
T H E FA Z Z OL E T TO
The fazzoletto, a type of partlet made of silk or very fine linen, was worn both over and under the
bodice of the camora. It was so sheer that at first glance it could be easily missed. Its hem was
sometimes finished with beads or a bit of trim and the neckline was closed with thread ties, buttons,
or small pins. The fazzoletti were a product of Venetian, Florentine, and Sienese sumptuary laws
which required dress necklines to be no lower than 3.3 cm (about 1.25 inches) from the base of the
neck.
48
THE BRACHE
LINEN DRAWERS EMBROIDERED IN SILVER AND SILVER-GILT THREAD.
These drawers are also displayed in Janet Arnold’s Queen Elizabeth’s Wardrobe Unlock’d. Arnold
describes them as “white linen drawers, or hose, embroidered with colored silks and gold and silver
metal thread, possibly for a woman.”
The History of Underclothes displays the same pair of calze, but from the other side (the
embroidered opening does not show).
The Metropolitan Museum of Art dates the calze to the late 16th century.
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. (c. 1600)
49
WOMEN’S DRAWERS, SECOND HALF OF SIXTEENTH CENTURY
From: Moda a Firenze 1540 - 1580, Roberta Orsi Landini and Bruna Niccoli, Edizioni Polistampa, Florence,
2005:
"Women's drawers, second half of the sixteenth century...
Drawers, which were useful for keeping warm or going riding - these are made of linen with silk
embroidery and the legend 'voglio il core' (I want the heart) - were generally used by prostitutes who
loved to adopt garments derived from the male wardrobe or from that of Islamic women. While
Eleonora possessed only one pair in red taffeta, fifty years later many pairs were made up in splendid
gold brocade fabrics for Maria de' Medici, the new Queen of France."
Museo del Tessuto, Prato. (c. 1550 – 1630)
50
LINEN DRAWERS, EMBROIDERED WITH POLYCHROME AND METAL THREADS
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. (c. 1600)
Brache Images and descriptions courtesy of “The Realm of Venus” website.

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/extdraw1.htm
51
THE CALZE
STOCKINGS OF ELEONORA DE TOLEDO, 1562
"Knitted stockings Eleonora of Toledo, 1562, Florence, Galleria del Costume.
The stocking are knitted in silk yarn with a great variety of different stitches, indicating the work of a
skilled professional. The knitter who supplied the court grew considerably in number during the
second half of the century, in parallel with an increasing demand for knitted stockings, which were
much more comfortable, in terms of fit and elasticity, than those made from fabric."
Moda a Firenze 1540 - 1580, Roberta Orsi Landini and Bruna Niccoli, Edizioni Polistampa, Florence,
2005
Calze Image and description courtesy of “The Realm of Venus” website.

http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/extdraw1.htm
52
THE GIORNEA
The giornea, generally worn on only the most special of occasions, was a long, sleeveless, overdress
worn over the gamurra out in public. Since wealthy Florentine (Italian) families equated the
outwardly visible portrayal of wealth with family honor, it was made with sumptuous fabrics, often
embroidered quite elaborately, lined with fur for winter or silk for summer, and could also be
bordered and hemmed with fur.
The giornea was open down the front and sides to allow for freedom of movement. It also enabled
the fabric of the under-gown (gamurra or cotta) to be seen.
Much sumptuary discussion about the back hem of a giornea exists. The back hem was long and
could be formed into a train (strascico). Contemporary accounts are full of women’s complaints
about the sumptuary laws that they felt were keeping them from expressing their individuality and
“taste” through the cut and construction of their clothing.
The giornea, which originated as military dress for day battle in “antique” times, performs a similar
function to the sleeved cioppa.
53
http://www.houseffg.org/belphoebe/Images/Florentine/Paintings/Ghirlandaio1.jpg
54
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a8/Domenico_Ghirlandaio_-
_Chapelle_Tornabuoni,_Visitation_1.jpg
55
http://publish.ucc.ie/journals/boolean/2011/00/Hoysted/21/21-Hoysted-2011-00-
en/media/image1.jpeg
T H E C I OP PA
The cioppa, similar to the giornea but sleeved and with closed side seams, was another type of
overdress worn over the gamurra out in public. As with the giornea, it could be elaborately
embroidered, lined with fur or silk, and/or bordered and hemmed with fur.
56
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/operafantomet/media/renaissanceportraits/firenze2/bronschool
edt1550s.jpg.html
57
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/operafantomet/media/renaissanceportraits/firenze3/bronzino1
560edt.jpg.html
58
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/operafantomet/media/renaissanceportraits/firenze2/bronzinosc
hool1555.jpg.html
59
THE MANTELLO
The mantello was a rectangular piece of cloth (or sometimes

a semi-circular or circular cloak) that was used as an extra
layer for added warmth.
In this picture, by Vittore Carpaccio, the mantle appears to

be supported by a clasp attached to a long cord that is
wrapped around her neck, over her bust, and possibly to her
belt (just barely visible).
Vittore Carpaccio (1455-1523/6)

The Legend of St. Ursula
Arrival of the English Ambassadors (detail)
Gallerie dell'Accademia, Venice
http://www.wga.hu/frames-
e.html?/html/c/carpacci/1ursula/index.html
Palma Vecchio (1480-1528)

Portrait of a Woman (La Bella)
Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid
http://www.wga.hu/
60
Palma Vecchio (1480-1528)
A Blonde Woman
National Gallery, London
http://www.wga.hu/
61
B I B L I OG R A P H Y
First and foremost, I would like to thank Mistress Kaitlyn McKenna of Ansteorra for all of her help
in getting me started in Italian Renaissance costuming and teaching me the basics of creating custom
patterns.
Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women C1560-1620.
1985. Drama Publishers.
ISBN 0896760839.
Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 4: The Cut and Construction of Linen Shirts, Smocks, Neckwear, Headwear
and Accessories for Men and Women C. 1540-1660. 2008. Costume and Fashion Pr.
ISBN 0896762629.
Barron’s. Renaissance Painting; The Golden Age of European Art. 2000. Electa. Milan, Italy.
ISBN 0-7641-5313-7.
Black, C. F. (et al). Cultural Atlas of the Renaissance. 1993. Andromeda Oxford Ltd. London.
ISBN 0-671-86523-4.
Davenport, Millia. The Book of Costume. Crown Publishers Inc. New York. 1976.
ISBN 0-517-037165.
Frick, Carole Collier. Dressing Renaissance Florence. 2002. The Johns Hopkins University Press.
Baltimore, Maryland.
ISBN 0-8018-6939-0.
Herald, Jacqueline. Renaissance Dress in Italy 1400– 1500. Bell & Hyman Limited. 1981. Humanities
Press Inc. Atlantic Highlands. New Jersey.
ISBN 0-391-02362-4.
Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costume for Stage and Screen; Patterns for Women’s Dress, Medieval – 1500.
1996. Jean Hunnisett and Players Press.
ISBN 0-88734-653-7.
Kanter, Laurence B. (et al). Painting and Illumination in Early Renaissance Florence; 1300 – 1450.
1994. Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York.
ISBN 0-87099-725-4.
Landini, Roberta Orsini and Niccoli, Bruna. Moda a Firenze: 1540 – 1580. Lo stile di ‘Eleonora di Toledo
e la sua influenza. 2005. Edizioni Polistampa. Firenze (Florence).
ISBN 88-8304-867-9.
Mikhaila, Ninya and Malcolm-Davies, Jane. The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing 16th-Century Dress. 2006.
B.T. Batsford.
ISBN 0713489855.
Mola, Luca. The Silk Industry in Renaissance Venice. Baltimore: The Johns Hopkins University Press.
2000. Baltimore, Maryland.
ISBN 0801861896.
62
Partridge, Loren. The Renaissance in Rome. 1996. Calmann & King, Ltd.
ISBN 0297-83367-7
Pierre, Michel. The Renaissance. 1996. McRae Books and Andrea Dué.
ISBN 0-7607-1264-6.
Schneider, Norbert. The Art of the Portrait. 1999. Benedikt Taschen Verlag GmbH.
ISBN 3-8228-6522-2.
Tinagli, Paola. Women in Italian Renaissance Art. 1997. Manchester University Press.
ISBN 0-7190-4054-X.
Wundram, Manfred. Painting of the Renaissance. 1997. Benedikt Taschen Verlag GmbH.
ISBN 3-8228-8254-2.
63
C O N TA C T T H E A U T H O R / A RT I S T
Maestra Suzanne de la Ferté
Suzanne Booth
323 5TH Avenue South
Brookings, SD 57006
[email protected]
64
N OT E S
65

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MAESTRA SUZANNE DE LA FERTÉ

WOMEN’S CLOTHING ............................................................................................................................. 4

Women’s clothing was worn in 3 principal layers:

Florence contained 270 wool workshops and 83 silk workshops.

SILK FABRIC TYPES

DYES AND COLORS

Three principal dyestuffs were used for red:

Other colors were made from combinations of dyes and mordants:

Kermes Twice Soldi 40 “cremisi” worn by the most important people

*The “rosato” color was closely associated with woolen cloth.

1480 Ghirlandaio: Portrait of a Lady 1488 Ghirlandaio: Portrait of a Lady

1486 Leonardo da Vinci: Lady with the Ermine (Cecilia Gallerani)

1480 Roberti: Portrait of Ginevra Bentivoglio

1490 Ghirlandaio: Birth of Mary Detail 1490 Ghirlandaio:

1490 Baldovinetti: Portrait of a Lady in Yellow

1490 Leonardo da Vinci: La belle Ferroniere (Lucrezia Crivelli)

1490 Neroccio de Landi: Portrait of a Woman (Alessandra Piccolomini?)

1500 Leonardo da Vinci: Isabella d Este

1520 Bordone: Venetian Lovers 1520 Veneto: Portrait of a Venetian Lady

1531 Bronzino: A Daughter of Matteo 1533 Bronzino: Portrait of a Lady

1530 Licinio: Portrait of a Woman 1530 Bordone: Portrait of a Woman

1533 Parmigianino: Roman Courtesan

1535 Titian: La Bella Urbino (Eleanora de Gonzaga, Duchess of Urbino)

B Measure below the bust, all the way around.

C Measure the natural waistline, all the way around.

D Measure from just under the arm to the outermost point

E Measure from the outermost point of one shoulder to the

F Measure the points parallel with “D”, about halfway

G Measure from the centerpoint of one shoulder to the

H Measure the distance between the “above bust” and

I Measure the distance between the “above bust” and

J Measure the distance from the “under bust” line to the

K Measure the distance from the “natural waistline” line to

L This measurement is taken in the back only. Measure the

M This measurement is taken in the back only. Optional -

Figure 2: Standard Front Figure 3: Angled Shoulders

Figure 4 Standard Figure 5 Angled Side Figure 6 Angled Fold

Figure 7 Back Bodice

Pieced sleeves (Figure 8)

Figure 9: Sleeve Pattern

Figure 10: Bodice Canvassing

Figure 11: Bodice Front & Lining

Figure 12: Bodice Back & Lining

Figure 13: Bodice Back to Front

Figure 14: Finished Bodice

Figure 15: Gore Skirt

Figure 16: Straight Skirt

Figure 17: Side Seam Finishing

This 16th century camicia, from the ‘Realm of Venus’ website

The camicia pictured to the

LINEN DRAWERS EMBROIDERED IN SILVER AND SILVER-GILT THREAD.

Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. (c. 1600)

Museo del Tessuto, Prato. (c. 1550 – 1630)

Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. (c. 1600)

Brache Images and descriptions courtesy of “The Realm of Venus” website.

STOCKINGS OF ELEONORA DE TOLEDO, 1562

"Knitted stockings Eleonora of Toledo, 1562, Florence, Galleria del Costume.

Calze Image and description courtesy of “The Realm of Venus” website.

The mantello was a rectangular piece of cloth (or sometimes