How To Make A Cheese Cave
How To Make A Cheese Cave
How To Make A Cheese Cave
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Learn how to make a cheese cave right at home. If you want your
cheese to ripen properly you have to make them a good home and
take care of them like little bambinos.
Now as Home and small Artisinal cheese makers with limited resources we need to
see that our aging cheeses have the best possible environment we can give them.
How do we do this? Well the good news is that we do have options, but these
options must consider what is best for the aging of the cheeses within the confines of
your resources
Aging Considerations:
To protect the cheese place it in the warmest part of the fridge and to keep it from
drying out you will need an airtight container. The size of the container should be
larger than what is needed ... 40% cheese and 60% empty space (air).
You can control the humidity of the air inside the container by using a wet paper
towel, crumpled up in a ball and placed in a corner of the container
You will also notice that at seasons change you will have abrupt changes in the
moisture level You should seriously consider a means to measure the moisture in
your mini-cave as the gauge (hygrometer) in the photos above.
The amount of cheese inside the cave will also affect the amount of moisture
needed, less of a problem when filled with moist cheeses
All of the above can also be done with an old full sized unit.
Option 3 - Find a Cool Space in The
Cellar
Where the cheese can be protected in a cabinet or covered plastic boxes.
This cool cellar will do a pretty good job with stable temperatures during most of the
year but controlling the humidity will still be a bit of a challenge.
Controlling Humidity with Plastic Boxes
Plastic boxes with, lids as shown here, will do a pretty good job with conserving
moisture, our current favorites are Rubbermaid 'Take-Alongs' they are essentially a
flat tray with covers.
They can easily hold 6 or more smaller 5" cheeses, or 2 or more 8" Tomes. I simply
use a wet sponge or paper towel to maintain the moisture needed, which can be
easily rinsed in bleach to keep it somewhat sanitized.
The paper towel or sponge should not be dripping wet. The object is to introduce
moisture to the air and not to leave the bottom of your container with standing water.
The paper towel should not be touching the cheese, the air should be damp, not the
cheese.
Note: If you are also using these boxes for draining your soft ripened cheese make
sure you keep clearing the draining whey so that cheeses are not in contact with it. If
you then use the box for drying remove the top and use a fan to provide gentle air
movement.
For larger wheels, cake holders work quite well, but the occupied space percentage
is a bit higher and more attention needs to be paid to opening and turning the
cheese to provide it with fresh air If using the plastic boxes, several considerations
are important.
The first is not to let too much moisture build up inside on the cover and drip onto the
cheeses. If you see moisture condensing on the lid or collecting in the bottom , make
sure you wipe it off when turning the cheese. You do not want a wet surface to
develop or mold may become a serious problem. Also when using these for soft
ripened and high moisture cheeses that continue to drain for several days, pay close
attention to the moisture build up.
Mats should also be used in these boxes to keep the cheese off of the bottom
surface to allow them to breathe and keep away from excessive moisture.
Since the volume of air in these boxes is somewhat limited, they should be opened
frequently to exchange the gases produced by ripening for fresh air, especially with
higher moisture young cheeses.
How I Set Up My Cheese Cave
A New Kitchen & Cheese Cave
In 1999 when my wife Robin and I set about re-doing our kitchen (remodeling with
bulldozer !), we decided to take this opportunity to dig down 9 ft. to build a cave
under the new kitchen. Since this is a 150+ yr. old house, the entrance to it required
cutting through the old granite foundation. The new cave would be isolated from the
heating system of the house by about 30" of granite (note the thickness of the
granite wall in photo to the right) and another 10" of cement and the ceiling with
about 10" of insulation and a vapor barrier. The new cave would be primarily cooled
by the ground temp but in mid winter a small heater is needed to keep it above 50F
and during mid-summer an air conditioner is needed to keep it below 60F. This
means a bit of seasonal fluctuation and this would have been normal in a traditional
cave. In the future if I do want to keep the upper temperature more in the 52-56F
range, I will use a small compressor and an evaporative loop to do this.
Ideal Temp + Ideal Humidity = Perfection
The finished cellar measures 15'x25' and I have isolated a 6'x15' foot room with a
heavily insulated wall w/ vapor barrier and an insulated door on the North side of this
space to eliminate as much solar gain as possible. This smaller room is the 'Cave'
and where my cheeses age quite well. I have left the north wall of this room as bare
unfinished concrete. The humidity in this room can be kept at a fairly stable 85-90%
and the temp will hold at 52-54 during most of the year with no help to cool or heat.
During July and August I need to use an air conditioner in the larger room to keep it
down in the upper 50s and during late January a small heater in the cave to keep it
at 52F. The larger room his usually much drier at about 65% and makes a good
drying room for my soft ripened cheeses before they are placed in the cave.
The 'Cave', holding at a perfect 'cellar temperature' of 52-54 is ideal for my serving
kegs of beer which get forced by CO2 directly up to taps on the kitchen wall. The
larger room is also a great place to store my beer and wines and during the winter it
holds stable at a constant 48F from November to April and is the perfect
fermentation temperature for my lagers. In addition to all of this it is a great root
cellar for vegetables and home canned goods.
All in all it is a pretty good traditional system. Those that have been here for
workshops can attest to that.
Just Enough Space
As you enter the cave notice the insulated door in which I have used a large sheet of
urethane, sandwiched between 2 plywood panels.
The cave itself is actually quite small but offers plenty of space along 3 walls for
shelves and just enough room between them to work
The temperature and humidity are very important to the successful aging of the
cheese. I find it essential to have at least one or 2 of these hygrometers around to
monitor this.
Note: the cave is holding here at 87% and 55F, Very good ripening conditions.
Pine & Ash Boards
The shelves I use here are a mix of pine and ash. These 2 materials I find to work
quite well and are easy to keep clean. Other woods such as oak and maple are
somewhat problematic in that they stain the cheeses.
Also note the spacing between and behind cheese for proper air movement. I also
keep a good distance between shelves to accommodate moving and handling the
cheeses. Several times a year I remove, scrub, and air dry the shelves in the sun ...
This is quite effective in keeping unwanted mold under control and is very
traditional . I then reverse them when brought back into the cave.
Using a Humidifier
For the cheeses that require higher moisture of 95% and above I still use these
plastic trays shown on the left to keep high RH% The hygrometer can show a stable
95-97% in these covered trays. I do watch for excessive condensation inside and
remove it when needed.
I use this humidifier to control my moisture. This actually performs a dual purpose
since it contains a fan that does a great job at moving the air gently through the
'Cave.' Just a gentle breeze is all that you really want. Without this I would need a
couple of small computer or muffin fans to circulate the air through the 'Cave.' If you
do not have enough air movement you will find a tendency for mold to build up on
the sides of the cheeses with no air movement.
During Spring and Fall I always find a week or so when the balance of moisture
changes and I have to compensate. In the spring when the outside ground gains
more water I need to turn the humidifier way down or off and in the fall I find the dry
ground absorbs the moisture through the walls and at times I need to splash water
on the floor as well as operate the humidifier on high for a week or so. During the
winter the cave demands much more water than at other times.
Fresh Air
Air exchange (different from air movement) is another consideration since fresh air is
needed and the products of aging such as CO2 and Ammonia (NH4) need to be
removed on a regular basis and fresh air brought in. If this is not done, problems will
result such as slower growth of candidum on the soft ripened cheeses. In a small
space such as mine, opening and closing the door one or twice a day is sufficient. In
a larger cave with more cheese ripening, I suggest providing filtered outside air to be
brought into the cave daily or as needed.
If you do not have a cellar ready made, then much of what I have written above can
apply to building your own purpose built room. Just remember that different cheeses
have different requirements and each 'Cave' will have it's own special plan
depending on what you are aging in it.
Optimal range of temperature is between 45º and 55º F. and should remain as
constant as possible. To obtain this consider:
Location of cave, on the North side will exclude solar gain problems
Frost line, building below grade will use cooler earth temps for cooling
Heat is released from cheese as it ages, the more cheese you are ripening the
greater this consideration becomes
Permeability of walls
Air exchange should help make temperature and humidity even throughout the cave
and eliminate the gasses that cheese releases as it ages. To obtain this consider:
Volume of airflow
Velocity of airflow
Proper and consistent standards of sanitation are essential. To obtain this consider:
Availability of water
Location of drains
Local Regulations
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