Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

Baer Comb Sorter:

It is a comb sorter instrument which enables the sample to be fractionalized into small length groups.
Principle:
A numerical sample of fibres is arranged in the form of align in the descending order of the length and from
a tracing of this align the effective length, Mean length, percentage of short fibres are calculated.
The operation involves the following four main steps:

1. The preparation of a tuft with all the fibres aligned at one end,
2. The withdrawal of fibres in the order of decreasing length,
3. The preparation of a sorter diagram by laying the fibres on a black velvet pad in decreasing order of
length, the fibres parallel and their lower ends aligned along a horizontal base line,
4. Analysis of the diagram.
Description:
The Baer sorter consists of a bed of combs which control and enable the sample of fibres to be
fractionalized into length groups.
The Baer sorter has 12 bottom combs and 3 tops combs are hinged at one end and are supported by a rod.
The space between two bottom combs is 1/4 inch except first two combs is 3/16 inch.
When the top combs set on bottom combs the distance between them will be 1/8 inch.

Procedure:
1. The sorter is placed with the back facing the operator, the operator prepare the sample and place on
the bottom combs at the right hand side of the sorter with a small tuft protruding,
2. From the protruding end, all the loose fibres are removed and place separately.
3. A tuft of fibre are pulled out, combed and transfer to the left hand side of the sorter.
4. This process is repeated till all the fibre on the right side, all combing are transfer to the left inside,
5. The top combs are inserted in their position to grip and to control the slippage of the fibre,
6. The sorter is then turned round so that the front faces the operator,
7. The bottom combs are dropped one by one successively till the tips of the longest fibres are seen,
8. The fibres are pulled by tweezer, combed, straightened and laid perpendicular to a base line on a
black velvet pad. The process is continued until the tuft is exhausted and fibre align is obtained.
The sorter diagram is analysis for the following fibre particulars:
1. Effective length,
2. Mean length,
3. Modal length
4. Percentage of short fibre.

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 Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

5. Percentage of Dispersion.

Analysis of sorter diagram:

1. Q is the mid point of OA, ie. OQ= ½ OA,

2. From Q QP is drawn parallel to OB to cut the curve at P’
3. PP’ is drawn perpendicular to OB,
4. OK is marked on OB so that OK = ¼ OP and the perpendicular line KK’ is drawn,
5. S is the mid point of KK’,
6. From S, SR is drawn parallel to OB to cut the curve at R’
7. From R’ a perpendicular line RR’ is drawn.
8. OL is marked on OB so that OL = ¼ OR,
9. From L a perpendicular line LL’ is drawn to cut the curve at L’.

1. Effective Length: The effective length is given by the length of the line LL’, This is defined as the length of
the main bulk of the longer fibres, the term effective is used, because it is to this length value that many
machinery settings are related in particularly the distance between the nips of successive pairs of drafting.
2. Main length: this is the average length of the fibres in the sample, this is obtained by dividing the base line
reading by base line length.

Mean length = Area under the curve OAB/OB,

3. Percentage of short fibre : This is the percentage of fibres, the length of which are equal to or less than half
the effective length,
% short fibre = Area RR’B/ Area OAB x 100,

4. Modal Length: This is the length of the group of fibres where more number of fibres will be having equal
length.

5. Percentage of Dispersion: The difference between upper quartile range and lower quartile range is the inter
quartile range. This measure of the dispersion may now be expressed as a percentage of the effective
length.

Dispersion = NL/LL’ x 100

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 Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

YARN COUNT
What is Count?
The count of yarn is numerical expressions which define its fineness. It is also called as yarn number or linear
density. According to the definition given by the textile Institute, “count is a number indicating the mass per unit
length or length per unit mass of yarn”.

What are the Systems of yarn numbering?

Several systems and units are used for expressing the yarn number, depending on the material used for preparing
the yarn.

1. Indirect system,
2. Direct system and
3. Universal system.
Indirect system:
In this system the count is the number of units of length per unit of weight of yarn. In this case, higher the count,
finer is the yarn. This system is generally used for cotton, woolen, worsted, linen etc.

Direct System
In this system, the count of the yarn is the number of units of weights per unit length of yarn. This system is used for
jute, silk and synthetic fibres etc.
Universal system:
Tex system of yarn numbering is called as universal system. This is direct system of yarn numbering and introduce
by international Standards organization (ISO).
Tex system can be used from fibre to yarn stage. The fineness of fibre can be expressed in terms of millitex,

Units of length and weight in counting system:

Indirect System:

Name of the System Weight Unit Length Unit

Cotton – English 1 lb Hank of 840 yards,
Cotton- French ½ kg Hank of 1000 metre
Cotton- Metric 1 kg Hank of 1000 metre
Spun silk 1 lb Hank of 840 yards
Linen 1 lb Leas of 300 yards,
Worsted 1 lb Hank of 560 yards,

Direct System:
Jute, Hemp 1 lb 14400 yards,
Tex 1 Gram 1000 Metre
Denier 1 Gram 9000 metre

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 Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

Count Conversation Formula:

System English French Metric Worsted Denier Tex

Count Count Count

English 1 Ne X 0.84 Ne X 1.69 Nex1.5 5315/Ne 590.5/Ne

Count
French Nfx1.18 1 Nfx2 Nfx1.17 4500/Nf 500/Nf
Count
Metric Nmx0.59 Nmx0.5 1 Nmx0.88 9000/Nm 1000/Nm
Count
Worsted Wx0.6667 Wx0.5645 Wx1.129 1 7972/W 885.8/W
Denier 5315/D 4500/D 9000/D 7972/D 1 D/9
Tex 590.5/T 500/T 1000/T 885.8/T Tx9 1

English Cotton Count (Ne): This is also referred as British count of English count. This is defined as the number of
hanks of 840 yards present in 1 lb of the yarn.
Length in hanks of 840 yds
Ie. Count Ne =
Weight in lbs
Example: A lea (120 yds) of cotton yarn weights 40 grains. Calculate its count.

Solution: Length of one lea = 120 yds,

Hank = 120/ 840,

Weight of the lea = 40 grains,

Lb = 40/7000,

Therefore count Ne = 120/840

40/7000
= 25s
Or, For Indirect system count calculation formula is –
Length Weight Unit
Count = X
Length Unit Weight

French Count (Nf): This is defined as the number of 1000 Metres of yarn present in ½ kg of yarn,

Length In 1000 Metre

Ie. French Count (NF) =
Weight in ½ Kg

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 Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

Example: Calculate the count of 1000 M of Cotton yarn in French System, if it weights 40 grams.
Solution:

Metric Count: This is defined as the number of 1000 metres of yarn present in 1 kg of yarn is known as Metric Count.
Length in 1000 M or 1Km
i.e. Metric Count (Nm) =
Weight in KG

Example: If 75 Km of yarn weight 2.5 kg, what is its count in metric system?

Solution:

Tex: It is defined as the weight of yarn in grams present in 1000 metre or 1 km length is known as tex.
Weight in gram
i.e. Tex =
Length in 1 km

Example: If the weight of 400 metre of yarn is 6 grams, calculate its count in Tex System.

Solution:

Denier: It is defined as the weight of yarn in grams present in 9000 metre or 9 km length is known as Denier.

Weight in Grams
Denier (D) =
Length in 9 km

Example: If a Skein of 100 m of polyester yarn weights 0.84 grams, what is its Denier?

Solution:
Resultant Count or Count Calculation of double yarn:

Resultant count =

Example: If 20s & 20s count yarn twist together, calculate the resultant count?
Direct System:
Resultant Count =

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 Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

Length in Hanks
Average Count =
Weight in lb

Example: If ring frame spinning mill produced 20s & 40s yarn, calculate the average count of mentioned yarn?

Solution:

Calculate the lowest Common Multiple of 20 & 40 is = 40,

Weight of 40 hanks of 20s is = 40/20 = 2 lbs,

Weight of 40 Hanks of 40s is = 40/40 = 1 lb.

Total hanks = 40+40 = 80 hanks,

Total weight = 2+1 = 3 lbs,

Average Count = 80/3 = 26.67s

Relation between Yarn count & its diameter:

By experiment, for cotton yarn of the apparent specific volume is 1.1 was obtained.
Let the yarn have a count of N Tex.
If the yarn count is N Tex so that we can say the weight of 1000 M yarn is N gram,

Assuming that specific volume is 1.1 cm3 of yarn weight is 1 gram.

The length of 1 gram yarn = 1000/ N Metre,
That is 1000x100/ N cm,
Now we can say, 1.1 cm3 yarn length is = 1000x100 / N C.M or 105 / Ntex.

We know that, Volume = Cross section x Length,

i.e. 1.1 = πd²/4 X 10/Ntex, where d is diameter in centimeters.

Therefore,
d² = 4x1.1xN / πX10
And therefore,
d = √ (4.4/ πX10) X √N,
= 0.375/100 √N (c.m)
Converting centimeter to inch and tex to cotton count,
d (inch) = 0.375/100 X √(590.5/cotton count) X 1/ 2.54,

= 3.6/ 100 √cotton count,(inch)

To round figure: d = 1/ 28√ (cotton count) (inch).
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 Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

Instruments used for count determination:

The following instruments are generally used to determine the count of the yarn the wrap reel. The wrap reel is used
to prepare the sample of length 120 yards-

1. Analytic Balance,
2. Knowles Balance,
3. Quandrant Balance,
4. Beesley Balance,
5. Stubb yarn Balance.

1. Analytic Balance: In the mills, the leas of yarn are wrapped using the wrap reel and their weight are found
out using the analytical balance,

Count Ne = Length x Weight Unit

Length unit weight

2. Quadrant Balance:
Principle: If the sample is available with length less than 120 yards, then Quadrant Balance can be used to
determine its count.

Description: This a direct reading yarn count balance and it consists of a quadrant scale fixed to a pillar as
shown fig:
At the top of the pointer is pivoted so that it moves over the face of the quadrant scale.

A cross beam is also pivoted in the same pivot of pointer which has a sample hook at its one end and counter weight
in other end,

The counter weight determines the capacity of the instrument,

Addition of any weight to the sample hook makes the pointer to move in front of the scale,

The counter scale is divided into three scale, The top scale cab be used to find the weight per square yard of sample
in ounce,
The middle scale can be used the count of length 8 yards and Third scale find the count of yarn of length 40 yards,

There is a small adjusting screw on the top of the pointer and the beam pivot; also it has leveling screw provided at
the base of the instrument,

To operate the instrument, it is calibrated after leveling with the base screw,
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 Department of Textile Engineering

Textile Testing & Quality Control-1

Prepared by- S. M. Masum Alam

A counter weight marked 40s is used for calibration, For this the counter weight is suspended from the sample hook,
if the balance is level the pointer reads 40s on the 40 yards scale, if it does not read 40s the pivot of the printer is
adjusted until it reads 40s on the 40 yards scale,

If the sample of length 8 yards is used, its count can be noted on 8 yards scale.

Beesley Balance:

Principle: Beesley Balance working on the principle of fixed weight and fixed length system.
It is used for assorting the count of warp and weft yarn from a small sample of fabric.

Description: it consists of a pillar A which carries beam B, fulcrum at knife edge at the point G,

At one end the cross beam is a hook E upon which the yarn to be tested can be placed, the other end of the tappers to
a point C,

When the beam is balanced, the pointers will datum line or the arrow mark on the beam, here also used one base
leveling screw,

The cross beam has small notch at the pointer D to take the counter weight.

A template is also supplied with the instrument and it can be used for measuring- Full cotton, ½ cotton, sample of
woolen and worsted yarn,

Example: for full cotton the larger rider is placed and for ½ cotton small rider is placed, then it hung in the sample
hook,

Result: in this stage fabric are taken out and counted which gives directly the count of yarn, if there are 30 threads in
the sample hook at the balance condition, then the count of the yarn is 30s.