CEA 2015 Chemistry of Haircolor

The Chemistry of Haircolor
John Halal
[email protected]
www.chemistrysimplified.com
317.506.3310
I don’t have much hair left, but my special
shampoo fortifies each strand and makes the
remaining hair look thicker and fuller.
Penetration Occurs Between
The Cuticle Scales
9
7/24/2015
10
7/24/2015
Natural Hair Color
Artificial Haircolor
Subtractive Color
Reflects Available Light
What color is your hair
If you turn out all the lights?
• Fluorescent Lights - Green
• Tungsten Lights - Orange
• Bright Daylight - White
The Electromagnetic Spectrum
Color Theory
1) Level of Color
Concentration, Density, or Saturation
How Much Color?
White, Black, & Gray

The Same Color - Different Levels
Pink is a Lighter Tint of Red
2) Shade or Hue of Color

Balance of Color, Tone or Hue
Which Color?
19
7/24/2015
10 Stages of Decolorization
 Lightening Natural Color Makes it Warmer
 Natural Hair Color
– 3 Parts Yellow
– 2 Parts Red
– 1 Part Blue
Oxidative & Non-oxidative Color
1) Non-oxidative
– Temporary
– Semi-Permanent
2) Oxidative
– Demi-Permanent (Deposit Only)
– Permanent (Lift & Deposit)
– All Lighteners
“Coal Tar” Dyes
 Primary Intermediates – Provide Base Color
– Para-Phenylenediamines (PPD)
– Para-Aminophenols (PAP)
 Couplers/Secondary Intermediates– Modify Color

– Meta-Phenylenediamines
– Meta-Aminophenols
– Resorcinols
 Cosmetic Toiletries & Fragrance Act of 1938

– Patch Test 48 hours prior to EACH application
– Not for use on eyelashes or eyebrows
Alkaline Haircolor
1) Swells the hair to gain entry
2) Triggers the decomposition of peroxide
3) Aids in developing the dye

Inorganic Alkalizing Agents
 Ammonia, NH3 (17 aw)
 Ammonium Hydroxide, NH4OH (35 aw)
 Sodium Hydroxide, NaOH (40 aw)
Organic Alkalizing Agents

Alkanolamines, R-NH2
 Aminomethylpropanol (AMP) (89 aw)
Deposit Only
 Monoethanolamine (MEA) (61 aw)
Lightening
Oxidizers
 Oxidation is necessary to:
1) Develop the dye
2) Lighten the natural hair color
 Examples of oxidizers
Sodium Bromate NaBrO3 Sodium Perborate NaBO3
Hydrogen Peroxide H2O2 Atmospheric Oxygen O2
Urea Peroxide CH2N2O.H2O2
Hydrogen Peroxide H2O2
 Solution of Hydrogen Peroxide and Water
– 20 Volume
 6% Hydrogen Peroxide
 94% Water
– 40 Volume
 12% Hydrogen Peroxide
 88% Water
When You Mix Equal Parts Color & 20 Volume
You Apply 10 Volume to the Hair
The Effective Volume is the relationship of:

1) The total amount of the color mixture
2) To the amount of peroxide
3) To the volume of peroxide
 2 ounces Color  3 ounces Color
 2 ounces 20 Volume  1 ounce 40 Volume
1) 2 + 2 = 4 ounces total 1) 3 + 1 = 4 ounces total

2) 4 / 2 = 2, ½ is peroxide 2) 4 / 1 = 4, 1/4 is peroxide
3) 20 / 2 = 10 effective volume 3) 40 / 4 = 10 effective volume
Clarifying Treatment
Formula
1 Ounce - Fruit Fresh (Ascorbic Acid/Vitamin C))
1 Ounce - Warm Water
1 Ounce - Clarifying Shampoo
 Shampoo with Clarifying Shampoo

 Mix Fruit Fresh and Warm Water
 Add Clarifying Shampoo and Mix Well
 Apply to Damp, Towel Dry Hair
 Cover with Plastic Cap with Holes
 Place Under Hot Dryer for 10 Minutes
 Shampoo with Clarifying Shampoo
“Resistant” Gray Hair
Not Resistant - Just White
 The structure of non-pigmented hair is identical
to that of pigmented hair except for the absence
of melanin.
 Non-pigmented hair is no more resistant than the
pigmented hair on the same head. It’s just white.
 “Gray” hair is more difficult to color only
because it is white and needs more color.
Grey Hair Deposit Only
Formula
3 Ounces - Haircolor
1 Ounce - 30 Volume Peroxide
4 Ounces - 7.5 Effective Volume
 3 Parts Yellow, 2 Parts Red, 1 Part Blue

 Level 6 or Darker
 Apply to Clean Damp Hair
 Process 30 minutes at room temperature
High Lift
Formula
1 Ounce - Haircolor
2 Ounces - 40 Volume Peroxide
3 Ounces - 27 Effective Volume
 Level 8 to 10 with a Blue or Violet Base

 Add ½ ounce of Powder Lightener
 Apply to Clean Damp Hair
 Process 30 minutes, at room temperature
The rate of a chemical
reaction diminishes over time
Off-The-Scalp Lighteners
 Persulfate Salts
– Ammonium Persulfate, Potassium Persulfate,
Sodium Persulfate
 Anhydrous - Powdered Form Only

– Powder Lighteners, Cream Bleach Activators
 CAUTION – SCALP IRRITATION

 Mix Before Each Use.
 Off Scalp Only
 Do Not Use Heat
Woofle Dust
 Enzymes
 Liquid Color Accelerators (Vitamin E)
 Ozone O3
 Processing Machines Use Heat

 18 degrees Fahrenheit doubles the rate of reaction
 Not uniform
 Damages hair structure
 Evaporation (plastic bag with holes)

Olaplex
bis-(maleimidoethoxy) ethane
bis aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate (INCI)
• Form crosslinks with thiols
• Specific pH 6.5 to 7.5
• Ph 8.0 is 1,000 times slower than ph 7.0
• 246 atomic weight. It’s big.
• Wouldn’t do much for healthy hair.
• Can you perm after?
• Does it work with Hydroxide relaxers?
36
7/24/2015
pH
The Story of H+ and OH-
 pH is the negative logarithm of the

concentration of hydrogen ions.
 Although everyone talks about pH,

most have no idea what it is
or how it works.
The Natural Ionization of Water
H2O  H+ + OH-
The Ionization of Water Means
 That pH is only possible because of the
ionization of water. Only aqueous (water)
solutions have ph. Oil and alcohol do not
have a pH.
 Pure water isn’t neutral because it is

neither acidic nor alkaline. Pure water is
neutral because it is an even balance of
both.
The pH Scale is Logarithmic
 pH is the negative exponent - decimal places
 A pH of 7.0 is 50% alkaline & 50% acidic
 pH of 7.0 is neutral for water - alkaline for hair
 Place a dollar sign in front of the decimal.
– Each whole step is a tenfold change.
– Two whole steps is a one-hundred fold change.
Acid – Alkali Neutralization
H+ + OH-  H2O
Dilution Is Not the Solution

 Allured Publishing
– (630) 653-2155 or www.allured.com
– The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics
– Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry
– Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine
 Harry’s Cosmeticology, Chemical Publishing Co.
 Global Cosmetic Industry Magazine

– (800) 598-6008 or www.globalcosmetic.com
 Society of Cosmetic Chemists

– (212) 668-1500 or www.scconline.org
The Copernican Revolution
 The earth is the center of the universe.
The sun revolves around the earth.
 Nicolaus Copernicus, 1473 to 1543
 Galileo Galilei, 1564 to 1642
 Sir Isaac Newton, 1642 to 1727

CEA 2015 Chemistry of Haircolor

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

CEA 2015 Chemistry of Haircolor

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Description:

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

CEA 2015 Chemistry of Haircolor

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

The Chemistry of Haircolor

White, Black, & Gray

2) Shade or Hue of Color

 Couplers/Secondary Intermediates– Modify Color

 Cosmetic Toiletries & Fragrance Act of 1938

2) Triggers the decomposition of peroxide

3) Aids in developing the dye

Organic Alkalizing Agents

The Effective Volume is the relationship of:

1) 2 + 2 = 4 ounces total 1) 3 + 1 = 4 ounces total

 Shampoo with Clarifying Shampoo

 3 Parts Yellow, 2 Parts Red, 1 Part Blue

 Level 8 to 10 with a Blue or Violet Base

 Anhydrous - Powdered Form Only

 CAUTION – SCALP IRRITATION

 Processing Machines Use Heat

 Damages hair structure

 Evaporation (plastic bag with holes)

 pH is the negative logarithm of the

 Although everyone talks about pH,

 Pure water isn’t neutral because it is

Dilution Is Not the Solution

 Harry’s Cosmeticology, Chemical Publishing Co.

 Global Cosmetic Industry Magazine

 Society of Cosmetic Chemists

You might also like