Achatz, Grant - Alinea
Achatz, Grant - Alinea
Achatz, Grant - Alinea
NICK KOKONAS
MARK McCLUSKY
MICHAEL NAGRANT
MICHAEL RUHLMAN
JEFFREY STEINGARTEN
A kJtllll' .utitk in Food & H'111e magazine hcr.il1kd /\line.1 .is per hap\ the country\
m11't exciting new restaurant two months before it even \l'rvcd it\ hrst meal. The
ChicJgo pre\\ was abuzz as construction progre\\ed, de\crihmg the restaurant's May
200'i open111g J\ the most eagerly anticipated in the uty\ hi\tory, and calling its chef,
Gr.int /\d1atz, a gastronomic wunderk111u <.,o rompclling w.is the debut of this heartland
eatery, it lured America's moq influent1al restamant nllic I-rank Bruni of the New l'ork
flmC\, and Tm11•\ regular Melissa Clark to an ope111ng-night table. /\nd the Chicago
I nhun1· openly questioned vvhether Alinea could be a' goou J\ all the hype suggested.
f;wn I thought there was too much buildup, and I had known the chef for a decade and
had written about him and his work with gre.1t admiration. Alter all. Grant was just
thirty-one ye.us old and this would be hi\ hrst re\tJurant. Let\ wait to call Alinea the
grc.111:st ne\\ spot in America after it has been open, well. for at least a couple of weeks.
The '£ nhune waited three months to award Almea four \tar\ and amwer that, yes, it was
a\ good as predicted. Gourml't magazine waited !or a year, and then pronounced it the
be\t re\taurant in America.
Alinea 1s quietly ensconced in a simple two story butluing in Chicago's Lincoln Park,
a more or le" anonymous structure that hts unobtru\ively into the affluent, residential
neighborhood. Inside, Alinea's din111g rooms .ire handsome, modernist, and understated,
lurnisheu with mahogany tables unadorned by renterp1ece or tablecloth. Sharp but not
showy, the restaurant gives littk visual evidence of a\pinng to be aggressively out of the
ordinary in Ameri..:a's fine-dining world
So whJt makes Alinea so distinnive~ And wh.it arl' we to make of' its controversial food
thl• outrJgeou\ pairings, the extraordinary manipulation\ u!' texture, presentations that
veer from ingeniou'> to surreal, ser\'ice piece\ th.11 make \ome diner\ squirm, ingredients
that range from familiar vegetab.es and meJt'> to Ultra Tex l anu xanthum gum, and
techniques that include encapsulation and pillows of scented air? And finally, who is
thL' chel bl'hind it all?
Two-thirds of the way down the left side of the plate w.i~ a ~imil.lr Jrrangemcnt; on the
nght <iide. ;i c;m.iller \er,ion. In the center ring was the fc.iturcd act, a yelloV\'i~h pool on
which sat a clu~ter of seven or eight obje1:b, depending on how you count - three large,
beautifully fried rnbes, t wo more black hemispheres wit h their translucent blobs, and
one former blac:k hemisphere now squashed under a fried cube. There were also two
brown tree\, and atop one of the cubes, a large, shiny, \.'\rinkled, maroon seed- like thmg.
The ovi:rall composition made us laugh, perhap~ ht>c.1u~e o : the w.iy the trees were
lined up .11 the• top of the plate like toy soldier~ sentinels guJrding all the rest Or like
chess pil•ccs. Or maybe just what they look like- hec~ 111 Jutumn .iftcr their leaves have
turned. Two dJp ldtcr, we asked Gram Achatz whether a Jong, thin, spiny, pinkish
object on our plates was supposed to look like a prawn He seemed dumbfounded, which
made us foci like those philistines who insist upon seeing a ship or J horse in a painting
by .Jack<,on Pollock, people who can't respond to v1su.il abstractions without turning
them into somi:thing palpable, figurative.
Of course, we're obvi(1usly nothing like tho~1.· people. But I'd Ix- willing to bi:t th.it G1.i11t
playi:d with toy soldiers as .i boy.
Then, through the 'iimplc act of nibbling, we were .ible to underst,ind much more The
trees were obviously cauliflower florets and they were: the l"rUnl·hiest thirgs we'd ever
put in <!Ur mouths. The wrinkled red thing \'\JS a braised, swt'l'l-.111d-scur chestnut. The
large cubes \.'\ere swcetbrc.ids perfectly cri~p .ind cn-.1my on the 1midc except for
one, which turned out to ht: J syuJt cylinder, a thick t:auhflowt'r 'itl'Ol w1,1ppc-d in brc.id
and fried .
J rnuld fill st•ver,11 more p.iges tell mg you Jbout this dish how l"Jl'h of I ht:se unusual
ekrnent<; WJ\ m.1Je (the caulillower fl orets were fried, tht•n dehyd1,11ed), how thl'y
tasted, how they worked as .1 te.im, .md what lessons nnt• might t.1kt• from It .111.
·
1 was jll'>I bl•ginnmg to W·"P the 1mport.1llll' o 1· co Iors. s I1,1 pc·s• texture\· and
. kinetics
. .
in Grant's wnrk. It c11'o hl'lped th.n I <;pied him in the klllhcn during '>erv•c.e, sitting .at And while wl.''re talking .1bout mr own personal expcnenle of Ahnea, shouldn't I
.i long ,tamk's steel tabk with two of hi'> cooks, tweeze" m hand. .is'>embling a dish, rnclude the 111JUIY I '>ll\t,1ined that aftl'rnoon in my hotel room when I tripped O\er the
p.mor.im•l all\' focu,l'd on c\'ery tiny detail .1ll at onCl'. Th.it\ how Gr.int '>pc~ds the f~ur out st rl'tchcd kg of thl' tl'll'\'hton labinet, which, in addition to toppling me over onto
hnurs of scrv1<c Hl' doe'>n't boil, or steam, or po.id1 You won't sec him roasting. seanng. 1lw deep, plush cJrpl't, not unlike a great and noble redwood craslung onto thl' force.I
<>1 nucwwa\•ing. He'll certainly a\'oid c\'ery type of lrymg. sautemg . .i~d d.ehydrating. llorn, broke m\' toe (.1Jm1ttedh•. a \t lf-J1agno'ls), whid1 made II 1mposs10le !or me to
0
And you won't find tum grill mg or broiling durmg 'ervke. or even griddling. walk without my eyl'\ welling up with tl'JrS. llmner .it Alinca 1s supposed to st an as you
walk in tlw lront door anJ down .1 cleverly de,1gncd hallway that appears much longer
All c~rant doe'> i'> tweeze: Tweezing must be truly import.int to Grant. th.in it 1s, wh1d1 \'OU 1eahte whl·n you nearly cra'>h into J kinetic sculpture at the far
l'nd Tht• purpo'>l: of thi'> i'> to di,orient you, or to n·mrnJ you that tlungs arc rJrdy what
hii n•a\on~ 1\·c ne\'er under'>tood, rc'itaur.int., valut· con'>l'>tency above mo'>t other tllt'y \el·m, l'Spl·c:ially .ll Al111t'a. or that the proprietors arc bent upon m1< romanagrng
th mg,. JI one t·u.,tomer gets six morel'> with h1'> asp.ir.1gu'>, everybody in the place must ever\ det.111 of \'ou r l'Xpt'ricnn· The \ad p.1rt was that my d11111t•1 pJrtner preceded me
h,l\'l' '>ix morel'>. Can you imagine how exalting GrJnl .and his Look~ need to be so that through thl' door. and ,1, he is 1.1ller th.111 I. which b not .111 Hnl'ult•,111 .llu•mpli.,hment,
my \'l'r.)' nimplicated plate will look c1nd tJ\tc exactly likt• my wik'~ p late a nd tho'>c at I had no di.1ntl' to vicvv the h.1llway or its '>nilpturc until .11tn dir111l·1 By then, I wa'
in no nl·t•<l of .1rd111n·tu1.1I confusion. which I\ to say tht: onginalit)' ol tilt' fooJ was
thl' m·xt table? I \!ill don't sec hovv it's possible.
.,ufhncnt to d1.,or1cnt ml' for sever.ii Jays to comt' Aho, a partv of four hJd 1u\t fin1'>ht•<l
their dinner .rnd were '>tumbling out through the automated metal sliding door .ihout
You '>hould have '>t:cn the des'>crt at the end of our next meal. All sorts of things were
m1dw.1y down tht' hallway, presum.1bly under the mflucnct' of ii twenty-four< our<>c wine
going on, like rough chunks of chocolate filled with a liguid hrioche v.rn1lla cream. (The
pamng. Although we ,h.ired tht' h,1llway for only a lew \econd~. I 111\tantly disliked
briol'hl', vanilla, and dairy cream arc pureed together, frozen -.olid, then broken up into
them. De,plll' their rit"h raiment\, o'>tentatiou\ ac:cc\sories, .ind rare perfume~. they \\ere
irregular pieces; these are sprayed with a paint gun filled with molten chocolate, which
beh.1\'ing like a l.jUJrll'l of drunks 'Pilling into the parking lot of ,1 suburbc1n ChkJgo
hJrdcns around the frozen cream. \\'hen the'>e chunk\ .ut· put into thl' rl'frigerator-
ste.1khc1u\c Didn't thl'Y undl•rst.rnd that dining at Aline.i 1s meant to ht• .1 t.ptritual
.above thl' frcl'zing point the cream liguefies while the: chocol.ne stay'> crunchy.) And
thcrl' was a spherical egg yolk injected with lla\'or (Grant ha\ left the old caloum ex pc:rienn•1
chloride/sodium citrate spherification trick 111 thl· du'>t.) During our meal, I took extreme
Or .,o I had bl·en told. Thu., JiJ I '>guander my onn•-111-a-li!ctimt' ch.rnce ll• hl" a~tounded
clo'>l'-up '>napshot'> of sc\'cral dishes (without a flash) and <li\covcrcd that in the middle
h\• thl' Alinc.i hallwav, at k.1st until they put in a Ill'\\' onl'. Shouldn't tllt'y ha\·c in'>talled
of' thi., dl.'sscrt. there is a dark cave guc1rded b\ lhocolate boulder\ and the thinnest, lacy
•1·'>\'\ll'm of vidl'o t-.1mer.1'>, photorclh. signal light'>. and intt'rlom\ to regulJtt· till' tralhl'
partitions ol bread. Is the cave really there1 Dol.'s Grant '>l'e ll. too 1 Docs that matter?
I (,lll t tear my eye~ away from t he photo. the luminous yolk the forb1<ld111g cavern
flo~'\'? Th.it I'>, if thl')' wl.'re n·ally, re.illy scriou~ about tht•1r h.11lw.1y.
r...at will Grant Achatz's cooking be like? I wondered nervously as we finally inched When I asked for salt at that first meal at Alinea, their reaction was ... they immediately
.vn the tricky hallway, I limping. and through the sliding metal door, which resembled brought me some salt!
re than anything an air lock in 2001: A Spacr Odys~. or an elevator. To the left was
e of three dining rooms; to the right was the brightly lit, eerily quiet kitchen; and Many elements in that first meal were brilliant. The aromas amazed me the most- the
.11ght ahead was a stairway to the second Ooor, where we were seated in the middle smoldering cinnamon sticks and pillows puffed with perfumed vapor that deflated
1m at the middle table-a striking square of dark wood set against tan-gray walls and under our pliiltes-aromas associated with food but not in fact emanating from the food
rpetmg - a handsome. cool, and neutral stage on which the food could strut and fret. right in front of us. It's like a gaseous sauce, a vaporous condiment, an airborne herb--
obviously a fine idea, and only Grant does it. (Not strictly true. Wakiya. a chef in Tokyo
' first morsel was presented on the end of a long. thin wire of spring steel: an and New York with his own style of Chinese cooking, pours a hot. beautifully floral.
tenna. This did not make me happy. I imagined that ifl slipped or if the wire began oolong tea at the table into a bowl of dry ice on which t he main dish sits, thus creating
wobble, it could slide down my throat, pierce my uvula. skewer my vocal cords, and clouds of pleasure.)
low my windpipe straight down into one of my lungs. Who would not be frightened
this dish? More than two years slipped by before I returned to Chicago. this time for the sole
purpose of dining again at Alinea. twice. My wife and I had dinner on a Friday night
J ppose it's a part of Grant's ambition to review and examine every aspect of the in December 2007, and again the following Sunday. We discovered that Aline.a is in fact
':>itual meal. I've also read that Grant wants bis audience to feel powerful emotions in Lincoln Park. which began its life as a cemetery and now attracts the unconscionably
.en they eat bis food. I've heard the same from other accomplished chefs, but I've rich, who build their mansions just five minutes from the most breathtaking downtown
\'er understood what they're talking about. Will any old emotion do? Does Grant in America. Alinea is not expensive as these things go. But I feel that ability to pay
il.lly want us to be afraid of bis food? Or be embarrassed by it, or angered, or daunted, should not be the sole test for admission. Administering an essay question to customer-
disgusted, or humiliated. or saddened, or disturbed. or agitated. or . .. 7 ls that applicants would be cumbersome, but a dozen or two short-answer and multiple choice
n) we go to restaurants'? Isn't it enough for us to feel comfort and joy. sensual and
questions could easily identify both the deserving poor and the deserving rich.
tellectual pleasure, simple or complex. or maybe just simple admiration and wonder?
At Alinea's front door, I checked to see that the magical hallway was empty, stepped out
hen we watch a horror movie, we've paid to be frightened. Is that what we look for
of the way, and ushered my wife inside so that she could experience the intended optical
a restaurant?
illusion and undentand that our evening would not be tethered to a meat-and-potatoes
(or salmon-with-sorrel-sauce) sensibility. I imagine she had already figured this out. Just
Nhy am I saying all this? Because I question the notion of a restaurant "experience,"
inside the air lock was a happy little crowd made up of Grant, several customers, and
nd the chef's ability to control it. My broken toe, the inebriated quartet, our nervous
a waiter or two. The mood was convivial, weightless, and friendly. and it lasted
.1.n d sometimes overbearing waiten (this has certainly been cured), waiten sporting
hrouchout the en"nmg. You know lww e\"l'I \' 't111ltl'n you Jrl· ,ufTu,l·d with tlw
Jn<l tn hnnlogv do not <lo thl'ir own cooking They do not hJW oppos.ihll· thumbs. The
, 0 ,,erful
com•1cuon that JI! men are brothers" It \\,1' like th.11. Tlw hr't ,1kohol 11 ( the
.imount of m.inual skill ,111d pr.1ctice that Grant's dishes <lem.m<l of the umk i\ .it lca'>t
JJ\' often hl'lps to bring ll on.
.1'> grl'•ll .rs in l'arhl·r era' of h.1utl' lUi'>im.~ grcatl·r, rc.1lly. hel' JU'>C therc's no prccedcnt
h1r (;r.mt\ dishes m fo1 thl'ir component parts (~u,·h ilS the bl.ick hlnbs of pureed burnt
\e \\er-c It' d up the 'ta1rwa\' Jnd ~cated at the 'anw t.ihk .it "hkh I had dined two vcJrs
hre.1<l). By which I mcan to sJy thJt nobody has cvcr \een th1' foo<l before Grant's cooks
clon: (You'd think they would 'e.:ludl• 'r.mk) people off 111 J corner.) At thl• 1.1r edge of c.m't rdy 011 tra<l1tion, 1Jmili.1ri1y. cducation. or memory An<l Gr.mt\ im.1g111at1nn keeps
e table. our walll'r 'l't down J bran•h of ro~emary in a v.1w; thl· 1deJ i' thJt thc tahlt· hounding .1heJd .
..rorauon \\1ll l'ventually bl'come food J loH·ly notwn, ex,l·pt thilt our branch was
thered . Thi' ''J' rw rau'c for dcprc,,ion; I assumed it wa' tlw 1mpcrknion purpo,elv Our \enm<l <li111wr indu<lcd two <l1~hes nc\'er found in hypermo<lcrn re~tJuranb :
ncluded 'o that God would not he 1ealou' of Giant\ gilt, , hn"t that wh.1t Per'1Jn rug - luxuriou,, nch. \Ucn1knt loo<l thJt you would be lucky to fm<l at the hne't tr,1<lrtional
ea\ ers 'J\' ~ rcst.ruranl\ 111 till' world Onc wa\ J beJullful vcrs1on of the Piedmontl'\l' tt1;111111 (di.ilc(t
for 1aslt1·1·1111 or 111g/1C1/1111). rrd1 with egg yolb, tossed in a buttery sau1e, .in<l pJwd
H·ry course w.is remarkable in onl' wJy or Jnothl·r the goo<l kin<l ol rema1 kahle O\'l'r with \hJving' of whitt• trufllt''> Long ago I awJr<led this di\h, at le.1st in my own
1d around thl· middle of thl· meal, ewn hdorl' the l'.lUhllower ~oldkr' marl'hed upon mind, thl' gre,lle\t-noodk-111-the world trophv; year\ latl'r I've found no rcJ,on to
u scene, I felt l was beginning to undcr,tand what Grant 1\ trying 111 do. At lca\t quc,tion thJt <ll'l'i\ion, cspl'cially when I ta~te Grant\ \'l'r~ion The otlwr dl'>h wa\ steJk,
ope I ''a' filhulou,ly dd11 iou~ \ll'Jk, ideillly cooked JUSI this 'ide of rarl', an<l 1dent1fie<l 011 the
menu as Kurogc \\'agyu (\\'hen I Googled the namc, all hut om• of thc rcferen.:c\ werl'
e fil'"'it course \\J'S trout roe with coconut, pineappll', and lkonl'e, the clement\ of to J popu!Jr lJpane\l' "mg. an MP3 recording of " Kuroge \\'Jgyu" c.m be <lownloade<l
essert transformed. As neither the coconut nor thc h"luid hlonce w.is ~weetencd, for about 700 yen ) And Grant \erve<l us not just J tiny spcck of anrmal flt•sh hut .1 mcJl-
_\ \\ere not 1mmedrately recognizable. And they were \'cry col<l I he trout roe wa~ 'iiied 'lab of rcd ml•,11 \o preternaturally good thJt JU't a glance Jt my snap,hot sets m\·
,eJ ..ome fnend . happrly 'alt). 1ust what you'd expect in the savory half of thc mcal. mouth 10 wJtcrmg uncnntroll.1bly, JU St ~hurt of drooling.
course h) permodern cooking doesn't care \\here it puts the ~alt an<l the 'ugilr. or
that matter the brtter and the smok\'. Grant rs lrkc J parnter '' hosc palette includcs LJid Jtop t hl· '>tl'.rk wa' ,1 scpJrJtl' strip of meat. immediately 1<ll•ntilrJhle Js the spm.1hs
er} color .md e\'cry flavor in the world, e\'ery fla\'or in the min<l. I think I'm gettmg dorsi, thc mo'>t 'ufcuknt mu,de on the entire steer I can t.1'te it J milt• .1way. The LJt111-
erwroul!ht ch.1lk11gl·d l"all 1t the " rih-l')l' CJp.''
r sec.ond cour<>e was entitled "Be.ins," and as he fit'> the nJml', 11 w,1\ \Oft and prctty. I\l· written el"•whl'rl' an<l JI length about both ta;111in .1nd 'Pin.1Ji, <lor'i I wonder
.mt could ha\•e made it stark an<l brutal; it rt•wmhkd .1 <li'>h you might hn<l at J if Crant \l'rved two ol my l.1vonte dishl'\ (if J pcrfi:lt ommvore l.111 ht• s.1i<l 10 h.1n·
mber of fancy modern rc,taurant~. Until you st.irtcd to c,Jt 11 . On the bottom of a favoritl'\) with the mtcntion of d1.1rmmg me with .111 ol<l lashioned '!lit of plc.1\Utl'
1de w hile bowl "as a shallow puddle, a bri'k emul.,ion of mJplc ~yrup Jn<l \herry ol<l-fashione<l hecaU\l' onl•\ notions of <lchc1ousnc\'> spnng from hJhit , imprinting,
cgar and it held the entire dish together. In the center was .i cin ll' of OJ\"}' bean Jn<l con<l1t10ning. Hut l'>l1°t Grant\ m1"1on to <lecondition, <ld1.ihitu.1tl". d1,rupt,
ree. topped "1th crisp pancetta. and all around hkl' numbers on ii clock were eight di\oril'nt? Tht•n wh\' w,1., hc \l'rving food whose \oil' virtue w.1, thill rt \\'J'i as h.1hituJlly.
te. extre mely inwresting garnrshes that included a lemon marshmallow, 'ea grape'>, tr.rditionally <lclidous J\ ,111ything l\'l' put in my mouth? M.1\'hl• G1.rnt w.intc<l to
ngo leat her, tomato leJther, fried paro;mps. and a green apple b.111 wuh molasses in demon\trJtl' that lw 1s l'apable of cook mg ,1 magical, t•piphanil \ersion of JU't ahout Jll)"
1c c.enter If } OU eat clockwise, starting with the httle marshmallow at twelve o'clock, dish . But I think I knc\\ that part alrcady
ur palate moveo; from sweet to salt). whrle your no~e is h.ippily awarc of the perfume
mace (o r 1!> n nutmeg') nsmg from the pillow under your plate. On till' .,hocking '>ide
s a cranbern dessert at our next meal. prc<>ented 111 a -;mall howl and looking hke a
mfortmg eggy custard with jelled cube'> of bitter orange. Hut dig mto it, and you hnd
),hstenrng red wound underneath, or poso;1bly a hum.m orihcc, very good to cal if you
n't look too carefully.
WJs impressed there was so lrttle evidence of technology 111 till' lood it WilS mostly
pl backstage, yet each element on the platl' undouhte<lly required its own unu,uJI
h mques, I could figure out the mechanics underlying m.rny ol thcse clcments
t peet.illy alter 1 leJrned that you can bake a lJke rn a plasuc envelope un<ll'r w.llcr),
ut havmg trrcd several 111 the same techniques in my trny home IJbor,nory, and
avmg miserably failed far more often thJrl I o;ucceeded, I remembered that science
My monwnt of darity .ll Alinea t.1me with Jn order of s.1J,il}'. It WJ\ ,1 gorgcous d1\h :
;1 'PirJI of' t lw rnot n:gc1.1bk \Omcumc\ known ,1, O\'\ll'r pl.1111 for ih hint of \t•afood
tlanir g.trn1'11l'd with impo\sibly intrk.llc \lt•clhc.1d tot". mu\t,1rd \t'l'd\, .md par\ky
k'.l\'e' (p.1ge H.J)
Ne.11 the cdgl' 1>! the plall' \Jt J \'egctal grcl·n saun·. A t.l\ll' of it .ind I was bombJrded by
p.1rsley. the workaday herb t.1ken to its \'Cry C\\l'llCl', J di\\lll.11ion of' e\'crything herbal
and fresh I hJd ever t•aten, It wa\ like having par\ky mjl'lted into my cerebr,11 cortex.
After my mcJI, I asked Gr.mt how he made the par,ky saule He cJml' back at me with
thl· same que~tion: "How would you make that \aucer'
"That\ simple," I \aid. "I would takl· p.irsley .and puree it with oliw c11I, let It sit for a
while to inlu\e the llJvor and .:olor of the herb into till' ml, .ind then \tram it."
Crant ,mJled. "Then you'd hJ\'C parsley oiL It will tJ\te like p.11,ley Jnd oil." \Vhat Grant
doe' instead is cook the parslcy. se.1\on 1t, run it through ,1 blender, and then thicken the
liquid with a modified food starch c.1lk·d UltrJ-Tex J. "It impart\ 1ero flavor but gives it
the s,1111e vi'ro~ity JS oil," he told me. "That liljuid will ta'll' intl'fl\ely of par'>kv bl«ause
thJt\ aJI it I\."
Of course, it's ea'y to s.iy that's all it is, l'spcci.illy when you'n• in .i rest,1ur,1nt like
Alinea, where the beauty of the room, the warmth and wit of the Sl't\'crs. Jnd the shcn
othl•r worldliness of the food pl.aced beforl· you t•.rn ob\t'Ull' yoUI fo«us on the 11.i\·ors.
New ingredients and tcchniqul''> like Ultra-Tex CJ t.111 make the place IC:d n11>rc like a
chemi~try l,1b th.in a restJurant. But they shouldn't. In fal't, ~eeing Grant .111d Alim:a
111 those terms l.1ils to gr.isp the relationship lwtween innC1\•,111em .ind 1.1ste.
How do I know this? licc:ausc .iftl'r my hr!>! dinner at Alinca, I got my hJnds on 'omc
Ultra-Tex J. It's magical ~tuft, ahle to turn .111yth111g you .i<ld it to into a lovely nappe
s.iuce w11h no l'lfort wlutsoever. I .im an cxpenl'nced .1mateur look, ,111d I spent weeks
playing with 11. And guess what I nl'ver got it to work nght. Oh, \lllC, I could tlucken
anythmg Hoot hccr ~Jure for v.111ill.1 kc uearn? It was okay, hut the pl.iv on ,1 root
beer float th.11 I was hoping for didn'I wme through. Hourhon thkkl'rll'J to \,IU<e .1
brl'.l<l pudding) It w,1<; too \lrong .ind akoholi<. And thl· k·ss s.11d .1hout my or.rngl' and
nanhcny 1u1u• saun· t ht• hl't tcr. It w.1~ more \Uitcd to \I 1 ipping pa1111 than 'pooning
ovcr J des~ert.
Simply put, the gre.11 cookrng at Alinca isn't about th<~ ll'< hnology usl·d to ll<'dll' it. no
matter how for1111d.ible th.it tc<'hnology is It'<; how these new rngrcdil'lltl>, technique\,
th.it 1h1< ken only wllt'n they are hot. There are agents that allow you to make gel'> that Those aren't the onh fa,c111a1ing m~rcJ1enh \\t' can gt'I Imm till' oCt'.ln. One ,,f !ht• h<1uids .1rt• l'llll\'l'r tcd to .1 \olid using .igJr .1gar. Then, that \olid t\ run through a blender
.md "'luipment arc usC'J to intemify 11.in>r "Thl' owrriJing Jrl' at Alint".i is purity of
can he ht•.ited alter thl')' have set. There arc even emu bi hers that will blend two hquiJs strange'! h\ drocol101ds l ' ""Jium Jlgmall', which u1mcs f1<•m hr.l\\'11 seJ\\'l't'U. Alginalt'' until it\ .1 ,ifJ...\• "nooth, tr,1mlut't·nt \.Hill'. You can put it on a hot pl.Ile, Sln<'e Jg.ir
(],1\ or," s.1y' t;rJnl. "\\'c hkc l'Xpfo,1w ta'll'S \\'t" don't d1lutl' fl.l\'ors, pl·ril•J."
that normally woulJ stay sep.arated no matter how long you stirred them onl) form ~el'> 111 the pn·scnC<' of calcium, '''a dt'\'Cr ,·ook c.111 m.rn1pulatc hi''" her .ig.ir won't mt•lt onu• it h,1, \t'I , and the he.1utiful clcJr <olor\ wouldn't he po\s1hle with
111(!red1ent" to take ad\•antJ~e ofth.11. At .\line.1, 'Phl•rc' of butter th,11 h.i, hn•n 'r1kcJ st.irdt·h.1,l'd thi< kt•ncr' like lloUl or ..:ormtarch
A«·ordmg to an ,,Jd sa\'ing. "It\ J poor nJltsm.in who blJmcs h" tools." But tht•
Thi\ hnng' me h.ick to Ultra-Tex I. It's a modified food st.irch derived frnm t.ipioca, a \\Uh additional calcium al'(' bJthcd in .1 'odmm alg111.11<· solullon until .1 gel form' t>n lh<·
flip '1de of th.ll Jphllri'm is th.it crcJttmg h>t>I~ for mmJ-hlowing, mnov.illn• work
hydro..:olloidal thickener that can be Jdded directly to cold liyu1ds without clumping, out,1dc. Then the i.phen•, arc heated, mdung tht• butter in the C<'llll'T, an<l wn·l·d with " Thl· tc<.:hnology .1llow' U\ crc.itivll \'." \,t.Y" Gr.int. "And it let'> U\ get tot he es,cn(e
O\crlook' till' imp<lrtanCl' of krn>wing how to u'e those tonl~ well.
givmg tht· took more cont rol over the texture or the final product cake (page ~77) fhl• e!Tcct for the dmcr, who hrl'.lks what Jo,1k, hkt• .rn <'gg yolk of the food . II you Jo it right. II ,1llow' you to be more true with flavor, not k\\ true.
of melted butter o\cr the cah·, i' mJgkal. It's likt• tr.in,itioning from tooking t•wrything on J big open llamt• to ii \.1ute p.1n on a
Modihed food ,t.m·hcs ,1re indispt•nsablc 111 the industrial food industry, where they arc burner II Jom· propt·rly, tht• end rl'sult either way" J hl'autiful piece of me.it. It's ju\t
(~o into your lrndit•n .ind open your pJntry. You'rl• 't.inng .it J lab'~ worth of chemic:Jb. u'ed to thit ken puddings, emulsify \Jlad dressing~. and even stahil11e the toppings on a Tht-Se hydrocolloid' \'J~tly c'l:pand J chef\ option' whl'll 11 n1me' to mJnipul.iting the w.1y we get th<'lt' i' different."
B.1king soJJ? ThJt", t'akium b1cJrbonatt' if you want to Ol' tt•chmcJI. Cream of tart.1r1 frozen pizz.i as 11 woks. But it':. only ret:ently that chefs have started looking past those texture. Till' turbot d1,h on pJge 102 feJturC\ the: Jdi<'att: white h'h \l'I \·cd m J hot
l\IMC' JcrnrJtely. tt\ potJ\Sium hydrogen tartrJlt'. \'inl'g.ir i' .1 f'ricmdlier n.ime for a..:ctic uses, Jnd \l.trteJ thinkmg about how thl'\e starches might be applied in the rc'itaurant shellf1,h <u,t,1rJ. If y•1u made a trJditim1al CU\tJrd u\ing t·gg,, the tempt-r.llurc required
.ioJ. \'ou tJn cn-n gi,·e your salt its due JnJ refer to II J\ \odium d1loride. Cooking is kilt hen to ,ct it (17"i l•J!-iO'(') would overcook the turbot You ,·ould tn· gt•l,llin. hut you can't
chcmi\tr\'. Even the ll'drniques arc the \ame: heating. n10ling, punfit•ation, dilution. scn·c l!daun-thi, kencd mixtures Jbow Jbout I oo· I• ( 18"C). or t ht•y mdt So (;rJnt uses Food pl.1~' so many rolt•\ in our lives. At the most h.isic lc:vel. 1t \ fud for our cont mued
di,11llatwn, fermentation. The difference betwel'n a \au<'ier .md Jn 1'rknmt·yer IJJsk. a If you'rl' looking for .i modified food "larch to play with on your own, you c.in track -.arra~eenan,
which th1ckl'ns the eggle\s '\:u.,tard" and can he \CT\'l'J .11 the warm l'Xisten..:e. tht· c.iloncs that wt• need to get through the day. At the highc\I lewl. n's a
rnoktop .md a Bunsen hurnl'r, is one of fam11i,1rity. down Ultr.1-Tex 1 on line. Or, crack open your cupboard lo \Ce tf you have any \Vondra temperature he cm i'1on,, form of .irt , )U\I .I\ pJinting .md \culpturc are.
!lour, which Gem·ral Mills market\ a\ a way to enr.ure lump-tree gravy It is modified
Tuke anothl'r l'xample flour. It\ the primal building block of We\tl'rn cooking. tht" wheat flour in wh11:h soml' of thl• \(arch has been prc-gel.itini:zed to help II dissolve Many di~hcs at Almea feature '>.luce\ with an almoq pud<lmg-likt• com1\tcncy, from But \Omt:whac m between i' the great plcasurl' to be deriwd from food tht• culturJI
n.·,ult of gnndmg the endosperm of the wheat grJin h.1,tl·ally. tht• star, hicst pJrt quickly in hot or cold w.iter. thickened yuzu juice to c;oy \Juce. The tt:chnique for these sauce' i' ingenious: hrst. the and ae\thct1c JO)'\ thJt we get when we gather around a tJble. for \ome, food is a auci.il
mto powder. In chemical terms, st.m:h 1s a hydrocolloiJ thilkt"ner. Uydrocolloids are a
mixture of water and molecules that attach to the watl'r Jnd to one Jnnthcr. ThJt slows When most ('(loks want to m.ike somcthmg firmer than a sauce, such as a gel, they
down the flow of a liquid (giving it a thick, \Jucelike t'onsi\lt'nry) or stops the flow u\ually rt•ach for Jn old ~tandby. gelatin. De,pite its familiarity, it is actually a deeply
entirely (turning the mixture into a gel). At a set tcmpaature, starch grJnull's can weird thing It's a pwtdn, found in the collagen in animal and hsh tissues. .lust about
absorb an amazing amount of water, a process knm•,;n as gt:lation evl'ry otha pnllt'lll harJem when 11's heated the molct•ulcs bond to one another and
the protein bt·l'omc' more ,oJid. That\ why \teak, f1<oh, chicken, Jnd the like firm up
Aftn gelation, the starch granules start to break down, lc.iking two sort~ of \larch when we cook them.
rnolccuk,, amylo'e and amylopectin They arl' tht• reJ\on flour i' \ud1 a good sJuce
thkkt•m:r. As they are released, they form a mc\h th.it trap' the \WOiien granules Jnd Gelatin i'n't pJrtKulJrl\' good ,lt forming those perm.men! hl>nd~. lnstt•ad, ih mokrulc'
prevent\ their movement. If you continue cooking J SJlll'l' pa't thi\ point, the heat will di\pt:r\l' mto the t'ooking medium when tht-y art• he.11eJ Rut gd,11in h,1, Jnother tri<k
hrt"lk down the molecules and they will rise to the top, cJu\ing the \.1uce to thin Jgain . the molecule\ .11e extrt•mely long. \O they CJ\ily tangk· wllh one anothl'r, Jn .1c11on that
That\ why clas\ic French sauces are cooked for hour' and mt•t1culou\ly \kimml'd to h•rm' .1 mt·'h thJt llap' \\'.lier u,e enough gelatin and the mesh fo,b up enough oftht:
rt•mm·e thl' starch molecules a' they emerge from the suspension. water in .my liquid to \Ol1Jify it .
But as anyone who has ever tried to thicken a sauu· dirct tlv with flour knows. it Geb Jre a big p.irt of tht• <ooking at Alinea, frw ~hl'f, <occ more po"1hih11t·s 111 them than
doesn't work. If you throw a starch straight into a hot hqu~d. its outc:r layer gels almost Grant. "I love tht•1r lt'Xturc," he \.iys, "and 1 lo\·c the w.l\' thcv rdC'a'e 11.wor." ~omt•timt•:.
mswntly, lrappmg Its dry center from the liquid. That'~ how you make lumpy grJvy. it sec:m' like t'\'ery pl.ite in .1 t wenty·l<lllr-..:our'<' nw.11 at Ahnea include' Sl>me sort of gel.
In classical cuismt•, you a\'01d lumps an one of three diffc:rent wavs. You make a roux, But with 'o m.rny idt•as for u'ing gel\, Gr.mt neeJ, \\il)'S to creatt.• tht•m th.I! ~o p.1,t
which coats the starch wuh a fat (usually butter) and hrt·.ik\ dm~n \Omc of the starch. gd.itin, whid1 works wdl m only somt• apphtJtions. h>r in,tance, orll'e you ha\e creJted
lessening its thickening power You mix the ~1.11ch w11h tolJ water or .mother mid a gd with gdJtin, you can't lw.11 it .1gam, or th<' gd.llin will c;1mph· melt a' the pmtcm
h4u1d to cn·atc a slurry that separates the granule~. Or, you m.1ke flt'lllT<' mw11e, 111 whKh bond' .11 t' hrokt•n.
starch .rnd fat (again, butter classitally) arc klll·adcJ together into a p.1,ll' tlut rdc.i,es
ttw st.irch gradually as the fat melts.
If you want hot gd,, you llt't'd to look t1> J wlwll• group ,,f hydu,•olh>1J, dt•r 1\·ed fnlm
.1lgat•, \l\IW<'l'd, ,1l1d l'\'en b.1ctni.1 th.ll U\l' c.uboh,·dr.11es tl> ,t,1hih1t• mi'.l.tun•,, r.ltht'r
Hut what if \'ou didn't Juve to me\\ .irourH.I wllh m.iking J rnux or it' kin? Till'
th,rn ,1 prott'lll mt•,h. Ag.1r .1g.u and r.trrJgn·n.in .1:e h1>th t'Xll'.ll'lt'd 1'111111 1ed Jig.It'. .md
post'.ncidern pantry ts sto<kcd with ,1 \few of unfJrnili.u ingrt·Jknt\ with \t•t•mingly
both form gel' th.11 « Ill ht• lw.lled. \\'h1k thl'y might h<• It'" f.m11li.1r tll tht• Unitl·d 't,ll<''
rn.w1cal
<> J>ropcrttt'\· 'I h-'r-'
~ ~
ar"~ th1· l k ~ncr'
· t hat d on•t rt·y111n·
· Jny JH'Jl to .1<'11\',llt',
· and one\ tht') h.l\T lwell ll'<'d 111 A,1.1 Int <t'lltu11t''
wnncll1on to their ethnic background, keeping alive traditions and providing comfort
.i ,tr.ingc pl.ilc. For others, it's a way to connect wuh fanuly and friends, a bridge that
111
faohtatl~ communication.
And 11 1s .i po\,crful trigger for memory. A bowl of strawberry ice cream can transport
\OU to ~ummer days when you were a kid, begging for dessert, or when you had your
t<>n,11' remO\ ed and it soothed your throat. Pot roast can remind you of winter nights
gathered around the table, safe with the people you love.
\\c call it comfort food for a reason. Our meals can gather us in a warm embrace. And
most food , most u)()king-even at high-end restaurants is evocative. It looks to the
p:i~t. reminding us of places we have been and meals we have eaten. That doesn't mean
\OU can't umovatl'. Rut it's a fundamental outlook that reaches back to create emotion
No one ..omes to a restaurant like Aline.a simply to satisfy his or her hunger. You come to
eat at Almea to be removed from your daily life and surrender yourself to an experience
that" managed down to the smallest detail. It's theater you can eat.
But the cooking at Alinea 1s also deeply disconnected from almost everyone else's.
Almea's food do<."in't e\'oke, it provokes. It's not comfort food that looks to the past; it's
challengmg food that looks to the future, examining every aspect of eating to try and
.. reJtc nc\~ sensations, textures, experiences, and emotions.
1\111 (.Jn hope for 1s that guests find some intellectual stimulation, that people find the
food dchcwu,, and that they leave satisfied on every level." says Grant. "I want them to
be thallcngcd, surprised, delighted, and, hopefully. find something life-changing."
A big part of that surprise and delight comes from the new ingredients, tools, and
techniq ue~ used at Aline.a, and the unusual and delicious results they enable. But
for Grant, the focus is always on the flavor. Some other chefs might be comfortable
h1ghhghung techniques for their own sake, but at Aline.a, technology is a means to
an end, and not the goal itself.
Tc hnology isn't a break from the past. It's an expansion. Escoffier. when looking for
th"kener, could pick from a variety of ingredients and techniques, like roux or
(Ornstarch !>lumes. Grant, confronting the same problem. has those old ways at his
dt5posal, a.. well as Ultra-Tex 3 and agar agar.
It\ not .i revolution or a movement. It's just a bigger tool kit for the chef.
Tasting Black Trutlle Explosion is like experiencing a water-balloon fight in your mouth.
A truffie tea teems against the supple skin of a ravioli, the tension released only when
your teeth pierce the pasta and unleash a cascade of earthy juice. As it explodes, you
experience a quickening of the spirit followed by .i funky. palate-coating burst. Henry
Adaniya, the owner of Trio, and the second person to taste the dish. said it best after his
first bite: "Give me a damn bowl of that thing."
The dish seems simple, but its creation took a brigade of cooks .rnd years of refinement.
One morning, near the end of his tenure at The French Laundry. Grant Achatz watched
as chilled sous t'1de bags filled with duck confit were removed from the refrigerator by
the staff butcher. When the butcher opened the bags and removed the duck pieces. the
gelled stock melted in his warm hands. As Achatz observed this happening. he thought:
a liquid is a solid, and then it is a liquid again.
He had seen this process a hundred times but had never consciously dissected it. He
thought. "What can I do with that liquid while it') a solid? One of his fellow chefs
was making agnolottl from an egg yolk laden pasta dough, a recipe handed down to
Thomas Keller by a Piedmontese grandmother, so Achatz took a piece of the duck stock,
sandwiched it between two small squares of pasta. and threw it into boiling stock. When
he tasted it, the ravioli exploded in his mouth.
That experiment helped shape the style that would define Trio and later, Alinea. Achatz
says, "It made me look at food and its properties dilTerently and proved manipulation
was not a diny word." When Achatz wrote the menu at Trio, he contemplated the
best thing to put inside the pasta. He remembered at The French Laundry that black
truffie stock was reduced with butter to make a pasta sauce that was so good he would
regularly sneak spoonfuls during service. If he added some gelatin to solidify it, he
would resolve the question of the filling.
One da). figuring the ravioli might be the perfect dish to build Sy's confidence. Achatz
put him in charge of it. That evening. Sy had a slightly higher success rate than his
predecessor. and he never quit making them. Over the next fifteen months. Sy would
make more than ten thousand ravioli, viewing each new batch as an opportunity to
learn and perfect. Originally. the piece of truffle gelee was square. prompting Sy and
Athatz to wonder 1f it was too sharp and punctured the thin pasta skin. They switched
to a sphere to lessen the threat. Sy also switched his sealing operation from a worn
butcher block table to a stainless-steel surface, again to guard against tears. By the time
he left the restaurant. Sy's ravioli rarely broke.
His successor, Jeff Pikus, the current chef de cuisine at Alinea. was inspired to join
Ach.itz when he first taisted Black Truffle Explosion during a staige at Trio. He says.
' I remember Grant told me to uke it in one bite. I did and thought, wow, I should
probably work here. I loved that cooking could also be about discipline. the constaint
pu-;h to improve yourself, to always question the best way. the fastest way, the most
eff1oent way to do something." Pikus confirms Sy's experience saying. "Some nights it
became an odds game. After the first order failed, you would wonder. do you roll the
JJCc and hope you made enough ravioli, or do you get out the pastai machine and make
more during service' Usually you made more."
111.ick Truffie Explosion was a dish that would weed cooks out, but for guys like Pikus.
'°>\, and Achatz, it was also an informal brotherhood. And as Sy says. "When you made
an order, you dropped an extra ravioli into the pot to taste for doneness. I've probably
e.iten a thousand. I can't imagme eating better mile tn pl4ce."
Despite its popularity, Achatz wu detenmned not to bring Black Truffle Explosion or
the 250 other recipes developed at Trio to Alina. Al a proponent of keeping culinary
thought moving forward, be didn't want to rely on his old dilbes • a crutch. But the
~uccess of Alinea meant that tbouuads of aew d1nen who were intnJCluced to Acbatz'•
food never got to taste Black Truffle Explosion. Achatz says. " I started to wonder, was
keeping Blal· k Truffle around for a while an injustice to creativity, or was not keeping it
around an injustke to the guests who have never had it'?"
So, he dl·dded to bring it back, only to discover that the quality of the canned truffle
JUice (a costly element at sixty dollars a can) he had been using had diminished. The
solution, even at twice the cost, was for the kitchen to make it. Achatz explains, "We
used to buy up to five thousand dollars worth of canned truffle juice at the end of the
black truffle season to carry us through spring. summer, and fall . Now that we make our
own juice, we buy a mountain of black truffles at the end of the year and make a stock.
Last year we had three huge stockpots going at once. The kitchen smelled incredible."
Achatz adds, "We never say something will be too hard or will take too much time."
At Alinea, the Black Truffle comes and goes. Sometimes it is an amuse-bouche, sometimes
it is a bridge between courses. Some nights it is paired with red wine, some nights with
white. In its repetition, the dish is never really the same. It even inspired a new white
truffle version of itself.
Achatz brought the dish back on his own terms, but his business partner Nick Kokonas
summed up the sentiments of other diners who longed for it, saying, "If he didn't make
it at Alinea, someone would shoot him. Probably me."
I loved bcmg a lmc co1>k I led nlf thl· .1dn:n.1linc of .1 hm) night. the more impo\\iblc
tlw hl'lll'I. I rdished the prc\\Url· to hl• pl•rkl't with l'\'l'f"\' nil. \l.'JC .ind \JUll'. The
repetith'l' nJture of .1 profi.•\\ion,11 kitl'hl'll l'ncourJ).:l'd me: to hnoml' more int1mJtely
connel'll'd with the ingredient\ and tn nmtinuJlly rd11w the prl·par,11ion of' l'ach dish
\\'hat started .is J dl•,1re In pleJ\l' thl· d1cf t urnnl into ,1 dnw to ch.1llengl' myscll'.
Le.1rning to ll"t intuiti\'dy know \\'.1\ m) goal
As mulh .is I respc1·ted the d1s1ipline required to be a grl'at cook. I \...'a\ l'\'l'ntually drawn
lo the freedom and intensity of the ocatin• pron'\\. hillow111g idc.ls from conC'cption 111
rcJhzation I~ mcrcdihly ~ati\I ying. but dev1\111g mv own HlcJs and then watching people
interact with them. both in the kuchen and in thl· d111ing rnom. as even more rewardmg.
I am often asked why we i:ontinue to develop new dishes at Alinca ~mce we h,l\'e enough
recipes to nit ate through the seasons and mah• our guc't' happy The answer 1s, n.·mo\·c
my outlet for crcauvaty and I would be kit with 1ust the CXClUt1on.
People lake to tlunk the creative prnce\s i\ mm.inti<' fhc J1·t1\t drifts to sleep at mght. to
be JWJkencd hy the subliminal cc hoes ol his or her next hr tllr,rnt 1de,1. The truth, for me
.11 least, is that creativity i~ primarily thl• rl·wlt of h.ud work and \tudy. The light hulh
goes off uncxpn·tedly at times. a con\l'<.JUerKe of .1\,od.111ng l·vnything I \CC, smell,
hl'M, ,111d tou1 h to food. Tlw sudden tempo d1,111gl' rn .1 \ong \uggt'\h a di'h thJt will
achieve J similar shift in menu flow, hn·.1king a monotonou\ \l'llUence of 11.wor profik\.
On .i walk with m) boys in the wooJs, I notice till' gnarly nlllh of .m on:rturncd trCl'.
promptrng 111(' to cn·ate the samt• org.1111c form with s.ilslfy l'hl' \ml'll of J womJn's
perfume lead\ me to construct ,1 drsh around the cmotion.1lly powerful a'pcct of
\Cent And the act1dental shattering of a Wllll'glass makes me wonder how I 1'.lll m.1kl'
raspberry that fragile. But more often, the new d1slll"s I Wml' up with .ire the produd
of methodology rather than impirJtion.
rhc aeat1ve process typic.illy begrns in thl' l .11ly mornmg hours Jt the restaurant, .1ftc1
0
the last guest has depJrted. the chefs have hJndeJ m their ordl'r' for tlw next day and
signed oil. Jnd the night cleaner ha' started te.H'ing .1p.ir t the ston.· In thl' still silence
of the dinmg room, with the lights drmrncd to J sh,r<lowv glow, I \Ur round my'>cll with
my resources a laptop, a notepad, pen'>, ,1 gt.rs' ol Wllll', ,1 kw rcfrrcn1l' hooks, a ~1.id.: ol
c fold towels with surbhlcd notl''> an umulJtcd th11111ghnut the dJ\', ,ind ,1 l"t ol \l".l\1111.11
mgredi<:nt'
While t<'chnology ,1lld tl'l'hni4ues .ire a focus of llll(llll r .it i\lrrll'<l, thl' upcoming Sl'a,on,
.rnd its corrcspondmg inventory of 111grcdil'nt,, guides nw rn dl·vclopmg J Ill'\\' menu
of c.ourse, there arc t'X< 1•ptions: If we arc .1blc to .1pplr .1 m•w t1·d1111,1uc to .111 .w.1il.ihll·
rngrt•drent, we w1ll l1kl'ly introduce tht• new dish .rs Mmn .rs II is <kvl'lopt·d. Ex< itenwnt
In thi' <' .J'<.', ' " ' ll'<' th<' thought pnke~.., of revers.JI to <:r<'Jt<' a F.' l'l y \ l'.11 'it eve '>t.illard produces the most Jmazmg trout Thi'> 1s a creative avenue I p.:irticularly enjo\ bt·cau\t' it becomes
d.,h . At fir.,t glance, J dc"tTt ft.•aturin)! ra~pberrie~ p.licd with rnr lr.1111 'Jlrin~-fed trout ponds m Michigan The pond\ .lrc a bit of a free association game Tht conn: pt is simple, but the
r1,tad110~. goat\ milk, red pepper. and lawndt:r seem., unurnal. \U\tain.ible c<.mvstems tho: cold water from the n.itur.il end result is often a very complex di'>h wllh several ingredients,
PL'ople h.t\'e a hard time wrapping their head around it They <,piing\ allows frogs. bugs, and the like to live m the pond' which in most cases makes its conceptualization difficult to
wondn "hy 1t.'d f'l'f'I''" Jrl' ~howing up in dessert, .ind most e\'cn during the hot summer month\ which me.ins the h'>h (,rn understand, at first glance, by anyone other than tht: creator.
hJ\'1' nc'\'l'r h.1d .~on\ milk nn it.. own before ... or have they~ Iced natur.1Ily and do not require the u:.e of eed pellet\, like FirM we lhoose an ingredient to be the ma n feature the
most farm· raised fish. The eggs are hand prnet'\\t>ci by ..,tevc mirror, if you will. We 1dent1fy several 111grcd1ents that support
Here ' "hert: the re\'Cr,.JI comes in. If I described J chec~c .ind onl' other person with spring water .ind fleui de sci The the feature, and then check them against one another to ensure
plate with goat chtc'>L'. pi..,t.lchio\. roasted red pcprcr:., .ind produttion I\ low. Jround sixty pounds per year and we h.iw they are all complementary
Id\ t.'nder JuJ fr l''h 1 d'>pbt.'rrie~ J\ garnish, would \'OU find that begun to buy up his entire harvest
unu,11.iP Proh.1hly not, ht'c.rn<>e goat chce<;e is 'ommonly pJircd In the: case of the chestnut di~h. dte\tnut~ Jrc turm:u rnto a
w nh the~e ingredient'> Th<" des<.ert makes as much sense as I '>tarted using these eggs in 2002 at Trio. I would t.ilk to StC\l' silky smooth puree. and then I ,,.,k my'><-'11. what ingredient~
the chee'e pla:e because in fact they are the sane. The ~ug.ir .is ht: wao, pulling the fish from the ponds and procc\sing them, support chestnuts., I form my list and st.irt .ipply111g ca.:h
le\·eb .ire adJU'tcd to accommodate the dessert format, but .ind he would talk about the nuances of the c:ggs fl.i\ors ,ikt.' ht• g.irnish to the other. The initial list m this case includt.'d bacon.
t he ~l>ppurtmg gJrni:.lie:. dll uimpkment one another in the w,i., de)cribing a \\'me. That would start the b.ill rollmg in my chocolate, brown sugar. celery. cabbage. onions, truffle'>. eggs.
<o.amr fa,hion wht'th1~r n i, a <>weet or sa\'ory preparation. Tl:e mind a .. to how I would garnish the eggs. When the roe Jrrived carrots, do\'es, mushrooms, raspbaril'S, rum, ginga, creme
seemmgly unfamiliar goat·~ milk is exactly the same as the .it the re,taurant. r would taste it, and often the puritv of flavor fraiche. and Mar~ala. among other thing'>.
ub1qu1tous goat cht-ese. Thc red pepper juice is cooked do\'vn and vibrant orange-honey color would remind rre of trop1cJl
to a taffyhke comistt•ncy. and the sugars ha\'e caramt.'lizcd to fl.ivor'> like ginger. passion fruit, coconut, and pncJpple C.,o So, bacon first. Bacon goes \"'ith d1estnuts. but does 1t go
t he point of a roa~ted pepper. And although la-.ende1 i-. uftu1 Jtwrui11gly, I fldir the ~dlty roe with >wcetcr·\tylc g.irn1shes, with eggs, cabbage (or Brussels sprouts, in thh LJ'>c), truffles,
rnmiderrd :i \rt•nt r.Hher th.111 an ingredient (it's associated with like• tropic.11 fruits and coconut. and arom.iti( clement>. like oregano, celery (or celery root. 111 th1., (J~c1. on11>n'>, and on
CJndle~. shampoo\, '>achets. and the hke). it is really nothing ginger and coriander. The resulting flavor cornbrn.itwn provides md on., Yes it docs, right on down the list. The 111gredients
ol tht.' new c.111 makt• U'> impatient. But mort• oltt•n tht: li'>t ol ingn•dtt•nf\ dehne., the more than an herb commonly found in parts of Europe that .iJ..o J rnrc '>WCct and salty balance, and the flavor'> Jnd .irom.ts of the that clashed with others 1:i some fash1011, like ra'>pbcrry, L"arrot,
pJrJnll'tt'r'> w1th1n wh1d1 I work. My approach to thnn l"Ollll''> down to Jn eyu.ition that farm lamb and produce goat chee:.e. tropic.ii fruit\ bring out those ex.ict flavor\ in the roe and oregano, were efrninated After the list of garnishes is
i'i tntt' of .ill looking: ingrt:dients plu., manipul.ttton'> eyu.11., lin ... hed di\h I remember est.:iblishcd, "c: dt:L idc huw tu 111,111 ipu!.llt: the fur m J11J texture~
.i moment .it tlw l'nd ol '>ummer Ill 20!).l wht•n we were ~till .it Trio. Ao; ..ous chef John ofthf" g.1rni<;hes to mJkt' th<' di~h vi,11,1lly intl'rl'\lin~ .ind
Peter> and I watched the last tomah• dish lt•.1ye till' kitchen, I turtll'd to him. .,hrugged, Wt.' were approached by one of our fish purveyor\ .ind told texturally satisfying.
and ~aul, "(~re.It ... wh.tt .ue we gomg to do m.•xt ~ummer"'" And so the thought proce~s we mu't try J fi\h knm\n as ayu, or w.itermclon li'>h. \Ve
began, somewhere 111 the back of my mind· what ingrcdit.'nt, what m.1nipulJt11m, .ind wert.' mtngued and hgured the hsh must have bright red
how many permutation~. 1 ht.' e4u.1twn hccomes more lompltLatcd, and usually take., llL·\h or ~tnped >kin resembling a wJtermclon. In I.id, it j,
a f1•w wrong turn~. before we fmd the .rnswcr. Hut it .ill boils down tot lw .,Jml' lo,git:Jl smJll .ind nondescr.pt, except that ih rnt:Jt '>rnell'> l'XJ<'t l) likt
procco;~ that c.1n often only he 1dentihcd in hind~1ght watnrrelon. 'I his similarity in aroma and fla\'or obviou.,ly led
U'> to pair thl· h>h with w.iterme:on. Again, Wl' .lll' trying not
On the followmg p.igt•o;, I d1~<'11'>S ~orm: ol tht• .1vt.'nllt.'!> .111J .1ppro.1< ht.''i we ust• to only to Jcn·ntultc the similarities of the 11.ivors, hut aho 10
<nnrept uali7.e disht.'o;. Jcccntu.llc the «haractcr of' the fish by U\ing .:i ln·.,h .md 'uhtk·
ingredient that helps its delicate flavor '>hinc thn•ugh.
J'hl.' prima1 y locu\ herc i' to let the ingn:d1cnt\ t.1lk. W1.• try tn Most people have experienced '>moked '>almon and ~our cream Tmpirat10n coffc' frt)m C\'aywhere, and I belien• it j, ju~t \Ve often u'c ingredients that are common m other countric'> This dish is less about followmg tht lld\Or'> ul' J wumry Jnd
H.1\·c yc1u eH'r \\·1mdca·d wh.11 i' in Cokt•? Or ketchup? Or Al
,auce? ·1 ht• hst got:' on. Y11u could rip .1p.1rt the: bc't known :.tJ)' aht•ad of the \l.',lSOll\ in our rc\e.trch Jnd 1.kvclopm1.·nt of together in some form. In this dish, we wanted to \how how bemg .iw.ire of \'OUr 'urroundings and processing them into a but lc\s 1Jmili,1r here When we string a few of them together, more about paying attention to the \t ylt of rnokmg common
«>ndmwnl\ and h>od' fn>m Anwrican histoq .1nd you would di\ht•\; in other words. oncc the wmter menu j, c\t,1bll\hl·<l. Wt' t'hanging the texture of a familiar flavor n1mb111ation can medium you an· pa"ionatt' about. Prett} much e\'erythrng l \CC the result ha dish that people have a hard time undemanding m that country. By understandmg the cooking style'> of other
rt·.1liZl' that .it \UITil' point ,111 of them were homcm.1dc from bcgin nmn.·pt uJ lizing t he ' Pring menu nn p.iper 'oon Jftcr But dramatically change the c.itmg experient'c To execute thi' c.rn hc rdJl<:d lll food : the roof pitch on a buildrng, .i pamting hecJu'>e of the number of unfamiliar elements. In thi'> l'J\C, countries, we can apply the philosophies to dll} ingredil:n\\
rt•Jl lruih. ,.l'gt:t.1hk,, ht·rh,, .rnd 'pice~. in pi:ople\ homt:' \ometiml'\ wt• ne1.•d to actually get th1.• ingr1.·dicnt 111 our h.inds di\h. wc use the antigriddlc, a m •.H hinc we codevclopcd with in .1 ntU,t'llm, thc sillwucttt' of a tree in a park, the fine!>~c of a we fc:<ltu1c ldmb, dnd as Australia is one of the world's leadrng we decide to feature. !'his dish nod\ he.ivlly to Southeast Asia,
and h.iwmcnh 111 orda to ht• fu lly msp1red Thb was the case in thc \Ummer of our friend Philip Preston of PolyScicnce. The machinc\ <;urface jewelry maker. \\'ht·n I am confronted with these shape' and lamb prod11ct>r~. we wanted to try to pair the meat with where a beef salad with unripened lrop1c.:il fruit like papaya or
2007 . when Katc from \ustamable Green\ hrnught u' ,t Ca\t' ol dips to 45' F (-43<C), allowing it to lrceZl' itl.'ms quickly anti to pattern,, I a'k my ,cll how I can make food resemble them 1ngrcd1cnt\ indigenous to that country. In our ~carch to meet mango might be dressed with vinaigrette m.ide from \oy and
I recall dri\•ing from NJpa to h·.1nston in the summer of 2001 unbclicv,1hle r.1'pbcrril.'s. varying degrees of texture. llsmg the antigriddll.', we produce t hJt d1allenge, we came across akudjura, or Australian bush lime In this case, we use honeydew melon, cucumber, sugar
to hq:m my ~tint c11 Trio. During that journey I 'toppcd ,1t Jn a dollop of creme fraiche that i~ frozen intensely at the bottom Uunn(! .i walk m the w0ods with my boys m the summer of tomato seeds. These intensely flavored seed~ have a complex scented with lime, and soy puddmg.
A&\\' I hadn't been tu one in yeJr,, and was very i:xcited t<• K.ite ar11.l lamt'' Lind own a small org.rnk farm 111 Mid11gan. (where the surface meet~ the griddle), hut Is room temperature 2007, we c.:imc on .:i giant tree that had been blown over in J flavor n.:mm1sc.:ent of caramel. mili<.. 1.hu1.olatt:, Jr ii:J tu111.ilue~.
get ,1 hurgt•r and .i root beer 111 a frosty mug. It struck m1.• J\ I Onl'1.' ,1 week, sht• brings us amazing products pit' ked e.irlit·r JI the top. When <liners pick up the bite with their hand and storm. The gnarh· root'> formed an arch of twisted arms that and ra1'>tn'>. The di<.h is a complex mix of oppo\.te\, both texturally and on
drank the root beer that I didn't know what it was madl.' from. that day. ~he hJ\ hecome a special part of the Aline,1 family, place it in their mouth, they expent•nce brittle ,md crcamy wa5 ,.i,ually fanta'>ll<' Its orgamc complexity inspired me to the palate. The fatty. melt-in-your-mouth beef needs both the
I h.id enjorcd root heer all my life .it A&\\' driw-throughs, \Ometimcs delivering item\ we didn't order hecau~t· \he know~ textures at once. \Ve powder the <;mokcd salmon and the pmk c.opy the form m one of our di ..hes. As late summer approached, Although eucalyptus makes us think of Australia, we rarely crunchy and cleansing aspects of the cucumber and mcl0n and
gulpin,g 11 down with \'Jnill.i ice .:ream a\ a llo.it and washmg U\ wcll t·nough to know we \'\'ill bl.' l.'XCited hy her odd offering' pl.'pper so no textural conflict\ occur. ln,tead, the lla\'or of J started working on the fall menu and ordered some key com1der cooking with it. FJa,·orwise, we should think of it the acid it} and saltiness of the soy puddmg and lime ~ugar.
down countless burger.. But I never really knew wh,Jt wa~ of oxahs pods, cattails, milkwced pods, bcl.' balm bouquet'>, the salmon simply \'aponzeo; on the palate, producing more mgred1ents to ~ct U\ thinking .:ibout the season. When the as Jnothcr variety of mint. When that analogy is used, it isn't Again we throw sweet and ~avory in balamt· by .1dding ~ugar tu
111 it so I dcc1dcd to do ~omc rcwarch, .rnd found out that .ind wild cdery. She often doesn't make her dl'l1very until .liter Jn aromatic expencncl.' than a lla\'orlul one. This particular salsify arn\'Cd, with its t wisted roots still attached and its black difhcult to make the lamb- mint dried tomato connect:on a dish that 1s heavily salted from the aggrc\siw 'ea<,oning of the
1t w.is origmally created using not only some: of my favorite midnight on Thursdays, which gives U\ .1 few moment\ to chat graduating of frl.'czing 1s not po'>srhle 111 a conventional freezer. skin resembling bark, it looked like a tree It seemed log1cal to Instead of mtroducmg the flavor of eucal}ptus by mcorporaung meat and the fermented SO) sauce. I hnd the manual cut of the
111grcd1cnts, hut .il'o \ome vcry common ones fennel. burdock wh1k \Crvicc winds down and she sip' \trong colke to lul'l use 1t to replic.itt' the ~hapc I had seen in the woods. All of the it into the dish, we decided to use an aroma tech111que melon to be the most mtercstmg a\pl.'rt of thi\ dl\h: the domino
root, prune-;, star am~e. \'anill.i, .ind sas,afras, to naml.' only a ha six-hour driw back to Michigan. Onl.' \Umntt·r night, .. ht• m.mipi..latiom to the ~al'>ify and the supporting ingredients shape of the fruit stands out and roll'> on the p.1latc a\ the other
few I thought, wh\' not u1.·ate a di\h around this 11.ivor prohle? brought u\ a flat of raspberrie\. There WJ\ .tn JmJzmg \mell of were m.Jde IO mimic what I remembered seeing that day. The The akudjur,1 possesses a biting bitterness, which we ncg,rc elements play a supportmg role. Thl• lightnc'' of the di'>h i' the
In 1.ict, let's m.ik1.• ,1 beef di'h with thi\ profile! I know that bccf ro\c'> t·mJnJting from the small, dark bcrrie\, whidt t.1ught my idea of form and imagery shaped every aspect of the dish with the saltiness of olives. Salt counteracts bitter flavors, lamb true star, provided by the green fruit\ th.11 .Kcent ,rnd brighten
and root hen work well togcthcr, 'o wh} not dcconstruct the Jttcnllon right Jwav I asked a !cw of the cook'> \t.ind 1ng 111.·arby p.iin naturally with olives, and olives are often cured with the rich beef and dark soy flavors .
clements of root becr and prc\ent them with b1.•cf? to \mdl th1.· fru1t, and they all came bad with thl' ,1rom.1 of mint, '>O oli vcs arc the perfect ingredient to round out the bite
ro\e\. At that point it scemed obviou' WI.' ncedt•d to p.1ir tht•
two ingredients. The addition of <;pray-dril.'d yogurt powdt•r
Inspired by my root beer revelation, I was now f.i\Cmated by i'> a nod to th1.· Middle Eastern uw of row w.111.•r Jrtd yogurt 111
common produn~ 111 Amcnc.rn grnLcry stores and \\hJt they 1.·1mkmg.•rnd to the common ra,pbcrry-llavored yogurt popular
were m.idt• from \\'henc\er I would frnd one of thc\t' itcm\ in ht·rc in the United ~tates .
mv hand, I would ask my'>t'lf ii I knew While eat111g a gnlll.'d
'>teak at my hou'>t' m the summer of 2006, I reachl.'d for the
A I !>.luce dlld sm1kd I knew I had no clue what made up the
complex !>auce that thousands of Americ.ins h.ive dumpcd on
their 'iteak., for year~. After n:\carrhing it, I found th.it, once
ilg.1111, II wao; a result of ri<;k-tak111g t:ulmary hrilliJncc owr
a hundred years ago lrn.1gim• ii I told you J put anl'hov1t•s,
t.1mJr111d, raisins, vmcgar, orange, and gmger on my grilled
stcak at home? You would think I wa<; nut\. But th.it i' ex.11 tly
wh.11 went into the or1gmal ,,iucc
Antenna Paraffin Wax Bowl • Pin
I don't believe manipulation is a bad word in cooking. After
all. cooking is bv definition about manipulation. Often we take The service pieces are a unique defining element of the Ahnea If there rs one concept that best shows the complextty that the
very traditional or common flavor combinations and manipulate experience. In 2001. I began an Internet search to find a service pieces bring to the damng expenence at Alme.a, 1t rs the
their textures significantly to produce an entirely different designer who would be willing to create custom serv1ceware wax bowl and prn. I approached Martm m late summer of 2006
eating experierKe. In the case of the salad, we asked ourselves The rapid development of new techniques and the expressive wtth the challenge of keepmg two temperatures separate until
what the traditional role of a salad course is in a multicourse nature of cookmg were leading to concepts that were unsuited right before the guest consumes the bite I had experienced thrs
meal. The conclusion was "to cleanse the palate." Texturally. the to serving on conventional plates and bowls or being eaten sensation a few umes before and had found ll mcredrble. It rs
most effe,t1ve wav to wipe the palate dean is to have a course wrth a fork and spoon. Dishes were becoming more specific in not often you have a drstmctly hot and cold element m \our
that melts in the mouth and leaves no residual particles. Sorbets their need to be supported both visually and, more important, mouth .11 the same tune I knew I wanted the food to be loosel)
and granit.is are often used as palate cleansers for this reason. f unct1onally. based on a vrchyssorse Potatoes seemed a natural 'egetable to
~o what if we juiced the lettuce and turned it into a granrta? serve both hot and cold, and therr dens1t\ was necess.in to
\\'e're prcscn mg thl· concept of the traditional course, but h.:rve Thrs search led me to Martin Kastner of Crucial Det.111 M.artm .usure the hot potato stayrd hot
m.ide the course e\en more effective by modifying the texture. was mterested m the challenge of changing the wa) people
eat The first concept was a lollipop holder that evolved mto The drsh finally debuted m October 2006 after months
a handle-produrmg collapsing tripod From there. Martm has of design production of the molds that form the bo\\ Is
In this drsh, ''e explore the different textures we can achieve developed over thirty pieces for Ahnea They range m purpose themselves and a crash cou~ m wax pounng The difficult\
wrth a single ingredient. The rhubarb is subject to a variety of from retammg the frozen nature of a delicate rce chrp grvmg m producmg this course at the restaurant hes mosth \\Ith
techniques; the result is the guest experiencing the ingredient \ rsual cues on how a drsh should be consumed, and allowing tht> 111.1kmg of the \essel The pot.ito and trufile soup rs not
not only in different textures, but also in seven different the:: kitchen to mamtam control of the food long enough to servt> partrrnlarly hard to make Yet tt takes tht canape chef a good
flavor pairings. The first of the seven small bites is a beverage drastic temper.ature contrasts wuhin a smgle brte to allually deal of time to form the wax bow ls each da\ I IO\ e the 1de.i of
produced by juicing rhubarb. Rhubarb in liquid form is t>voking emotion from our guests. lOmplete ownership thrs dish provides the cooks Not onh do
.ictually absent of texture. Next we focus on crispy. which we they bare the responsibrlrt\ to the food but also to the ser\lce
achieve by dehydrating cooked rhubarb for several hours untrl It 1s this last aspect that best describes the servrre piece called piece m whrlh rt rs presented From the gueo;.ts' perspecti\e.
it becomes brittle. By pladng the rhubarb undt>r vacuum while the antenna. Essenually a self-supporting skewer that ri!ies oil the drsh represents man) attributes that we strl\e for ''uh
combined with various lrquids, a technique called compressing, the table surface to mouth level. it is designed to hold a small our food It 1mmed1atelv engages them the\ prlk up the bo\\I
raw rhubarb 1s made palatable from the absorption of sugar hrte of food that can be consumed without usmg your hands wtth their hands and are asked to removt> the pm rdeasrng ..
syrup. The crunchy texture of the raw vegetable remains mt.Jct. It 1s thrs break mg of the monotony of eatmg that rs important the garnishes mto the soup and combmrng the hot and cold rn
Bv whipping air rnto a base of rhubarb, we are ablt> to create becau!ie tt evokes an emotional reacuon from an event that preparation for lonsumpuon There rs the unique:- sensation the
a spongy texture. In the most conventional method, slowly we have all become accustomed to throughout our hves The temperature contrast pro\ tdes and the 1ronr' lOmfort derived
cooked rhubarb vields a soft mouthfeel. In the next bite, the actual food composruon would taste exactly the s.ime 1f eaten from the nlh interpretation of tht> common potato
rhubarb rs tramformed into a creamy sorbet, and lastly the from a conventional spoon. The service piece nchens the
rhubarb 1s set wrth a hydrocolloid to form a gelatinous tt>xture. experience through creating tension, mum1dat1on, humor,
With the tc:xtural focus as our guide, you can see how we are and nervousness
led down various paths of manipulation.
Aromatic Handle Vapor ~~eat Act 1vat1 o n Veil Fragrant Fil m
Pillow of Scented Air
Since the seasons are often identified by sml'lls. it 1., natural to This technique provides a sense of surpri\e ,rnd explor,llwn Inspired by the popul.ir m111t-f1.11·ort•J .,trip'> li>unJ on the
During busy day of prep at Trio in 2002, I was trying to reinforce the seasonal approach with the support from aroma. Often tim~. peorll· s.iv the J1she' of high-end restaurant\ lack for the diner. The bite of :ood 1s buried under brilnt he\ Jnd m.irket today, WC wantl'J to try Jnothl'r arproach to
\\"l' .ill know thl· 1mportan..:c of ~mell in relation to ta.,te. When ,1
conceive of a new amuse-bouche for the fa ll menu. Sometimes When we begin to develop a season's menu. we write down the sou l of a nourishing home-cooked meal. And ..:crtainly le.i\'es ol eucalyptus and then baked until the .irom;i eman,11e.. introducing flavor. \\'e infU\l'J .i :.trong tcct of c1r111.1mun and
we \11·1rl ,rnJ .. mell ,1 gla" of n:J Burgundy and talk about
when I feel a creative block, I like to put the ingredient<:> I everything we associate with that season. The list is not limited lrom a Look'~ pc1'>pcl:IJVe, !>Ollie of the gceJtesl plcJsurcs u>me from the bowl. This concealment or the food provides a seme other brown sptCe., and formed ,1 d1,sol\'.ible him lrom the
cherry, katlwr, .mJ 'tar ani..e lla\'ors, the point is prO\·en. Wine
1~ m.1Je fwm !!r.1pc.,, anJ only grapes. and the fact that you w.int to combine close to me while I work. I will occac,1onally to foodstuffs. We include acti\'itie~ such as grilling in the £rum e ngaging in the c<><•kini:: processes. which an: alway~ of dr.im.i at the table as the guest lilts the pin holding tht• IJmb, .iddition of modified st.ire he\. We a..k gue.,ts to pl.ice the Mamp·
can t.i~te tht"ie other ll.l\'or' 111 th<: liquid shows the connection pick them up. poke at them, or simply stare. I knew I wanted ~ummer. the sound .. of bird<; chirpinR· thf' <>till, cl.irk dnrm.rncy out 0£ t he view of the guests at the table Most of us c.in rn:t'.1ling th1• hitt> '>ized <>trip on their p.1l.11e JnJ push it tot he root or their mt•uth
between tht' two ..cn..cs. But what is perhaps le~s ob\'iou\ i\ to combine cr,rnberry, Meyer lemon, shrimp, and vanill.i, but of winter-basically. the expression of the seJ.,on And 1t is remember a holiday when our mother would open the O\'en There it dissolves, but the rc~iJu.il p.irtides of spites rcmam
how the Sl'n~l' of ..mell i\ intertwined 1vith our personality. ft I was :'itruggling on the final form. At one point 1 picked up when we can put the puzzle together successfully the pieces door .md let the aroma of a roasting bird or the sweet smell of and push into the olfactory region 'J ht' .iromas produced from
trigger\ memor\', which unka\ht·s endless emotional reactiom. the \'anilla and brought it to my nose for a sniff, hoping to coming from the ingredients and the essences of the timt-that a baking pie ec;cape into the room. And when I was a cook, I the spkes last throughout thl· JurJt1on of the coul"'ie, thereby
!'>o .uoma o!fc:r' two po\\ibilitie\ for the chef: the opportunity to spark some inspir.ition. For some reason, as I began to lower the dish achieves the complexity we w.rnt. In this example, 1w ah~.i\•S loved add mg crushed garlic or a bouquet of herh to lla\'oring the dish .
ll.i1·c1r .i di.,h by 11·ay of \mcll, and to add a layer of complexity the be.m, I noticed the motion of my arm. The muscle memory compose a dish of poached turbot and shell fish, and unleJsh the a hot pJn bubbling with butter before basting a piece of hsh.
to a con,l·pt by triggering an emotional response to a familiar felt incredibly familiar, and I realized I was followmg the same fragrant perfume of hyacinth by dousing them with hot water The technique of heat JctivJtion allows us to tramport these
~ml'll. Thl'\t' 1wo lact·t., of the tel'hnique became so important movement I u~e when I consume food from .i fork or spoon. in front of the guest, producing .i sort of spring floral facial. experie nces to the dining room . In the ca~c of the g1>ose, we try
in our n1oking that the idea of aroma itself becamt' a creative f looked at the vanilla bean again and suddenly saw it as a to e mulate the smells ol ,1 masting holiday goose. River stone\
.11·cnuc. A di .. h would bt· conceived around a new way to uten\d, a reJlly good-smelling skewer if you will. are hc.ited in the own .ind placed in a ramekin with J mixture
111troJun· .1roma, .rnd Wl' would dedicate hours to searching of sage, orJnge zest, goost' lat, and sweet spices. The ramekin
our Jifkrcnt methmh nf delil'ering aroma to the guests. The two examples of this technique in this book \how the acwmpamc<> a dish composed of clement'> typical to a holiday
different ob1ectivcs of aroma. With the sweet potJto, we U\e me.ii stuflmg, goose, root vcgct.ablt.">, citrus.
In f\1.irch 20ll'i, .1 friend of Almea was tra\'eling in Europe the aromJ of the smoldering cinnamon to add a specific fl.lvor
and c.ime a' ro~s a mal'hine that he thought we might be able to the bite. It'> toa-.ty sweetne!>s works in uni\on with the With the help of Mal"tin, we took the idea of providing the
to put to good use. It WJ\ a vaporizer, ba\ically a device th.it charine\\ of the oaked bourbon and brown sug.ir swectnc\\ arnmas of cookmg even further He crc.ited a servicc piece
blows tt•mperature-controlled .iir through a chamber filled f:motion i\ the impetus for the smoldering oak le.i\'e\ that thJt would not only cook a protem. in this c.ise lamb, .it the
with wh.ite\'l'r an•matic you choo.,e and collect\ the infused Jccomp.iny the pheasant dish. As a young boy growing up in table but also allow U'> to JCllvatc the scent of fresh herbs .
•11r ma plastic h.ig He brought the vaporizer o\'er to the office rur.il Michigan, autumn was my fan)rite \ea\on. I recall me anJ The ro<>em.irv branch 1s 111-.ertcd into the service piece, and the
we were u~mg a~ a home base to build Almea. The machim· my fnends raking the lea\'cs from our y.ird\ into l.1rge pile:<,, dmer 1s surrounded by the smells of searing meat and fragrant
,.,,·as exciting Coffee st.ir anise, orange rind, lavcndcr any .rnd aftn 1umping in them, lighting them ablaze to lulhll l'\'t·ry rosemar}. rephcatmg the experience common in the kitchen.
aromJllC we plJtcd 111 the <.hambt:r hllcd the room with J ht:.idv child\ pyrom.iniat• tcndencie'>. More th.in twt·ntv ve,1 r\ l.Jtcr,
~c ent 1 he: challt:nge bcc.iml' how to contain, serve, .ind dhpt:r'>e f \till a\\lll'i.itc the Jroma from burn111g leave., with f.1 11.
the t Jpturcd SCl'nt Thl· ~olution was to purchasl· an 111dustnJl
bag ~caler that would ,11low U'> to pt:rmanently hold 111 the
~cent When the .111 was ~t.ihk, Wt' determined how m.iny hole:.,
lo punch into eJch h.ig \o tht· ,11r would leJk out \lowly once
we rcsll'd J pl.Ill' on top. hn.1lly, we had J seamstre\\ ..~w lint·n
p11lowca.,~s thJt would lude the pla..tic bag., 111 the dming room,
Al111e.1 is not .1 restJurJnt Jt least not in tl1l· ro1n-ent1onJl dl'hnition of the word
l'L·1t.1inly, customers come here to eat and dr nk, .llld thl'y .111 J1 nve with lofty
expl'dJtim1\. But we expect more from them. The\ mu\t giVL' thl'm\clvcs over to Grant's
pl.m for the e\·cning and trust 111 h" <kt1\ioll\. Ihev will he ,1\kL•d to cat from handheld
bowl\, sL·ll-\upporting skewers, "pcJLnck\," "'quid\," .rnd "picks" as often as they will
bL' gi\'en J fork, knife. Jnd spoon l lavor combinJtion\ will defy Js\umpuons. disregard
trJJitiom. or cluudate J prn iou\ly unimagmcd h1crJrd1y Aromas will liberate long-
forgotten memories \'\'e challenge our guL'\t\ to thmk .rnd reflect on the meal even while
it i' hJppl'ning. to JWJken their senses and emotions fully with the Jppearance of each
dish. !\1o\t rcst.iurants seek to help their guests momentarily escape from engagement.
\\'e insist on the opposite.
Fvnything that is true about Alinea the restaurJnt i\ .1lso true of this eponymous
n1lumL'. This is not a typical cookbook. Although 1t contains the verbatim recipes for
morl' than onl' hundred dishes from the Aline.1 kitchl'n, wl' don't mtend or expect
readers to make the dishes \·erbatim. lmteJd. our goal i\ to craft an experience similar
to dining at the restaurant here is a way to Jpproach food. to think about life, to evoke
an idea Thl' L'xpcncncc 1s singularly your\. I:njoy it J\ you make it your own.
Of course. we do expect and want you to make the recipes But even the most amb1t1ous
home coob and professional chefs will be rnnlrnntcd with unfamiliar technigues.
unu\u,11 or rJrc 111gred1ents, and daunting m1\t' 1•11 plan· rcguircmcnl\ that may make
replicating a given dish. at the least. mllm1d.11111g and time comummg. Whene,·er
lca\iblc, n:cipcs include spcLiJI imtruction\ .rnd photogr,1ph\ ol' .1 proce~s. and note\
on \ourdng mgrcdients and kitLhcn tool\ .1ppc.ir onlirw in thL· Alinl'J Mo\ait' (page 49)
Morl' import.int, howe\'er, 1s to read the rccipL' 111 l'ull bcforl' beginning. and then decide
how to hcst mtcrpret it in your own kllthl'n
Here i\ an example. While I wa\ hdpmg to L'dit the \\'inta rl'dpcs. Thanbgi\·ing was
appro.aching .rnd I decided to make Hot l'ot,llo, rnld pot.110, bl.Kk truffle, Parml'\Jn
(p.ige l!M) as an appetizer for my f.1111ily\ n·kbr,11lon. But I did not ha\'L' tl'n ounCl'\ of
l'L'rigord tru!llc\ on hand to makl' the \tock. nor did I intend to IJJndc·r.1ft the paratfin
w.ix bowl\. '>o. I dl'etded to adapt the rl'upe to wh.ll I did h,l\t', .md tot h.mge thl'
411 ,1nt1ty .ind prc\entatwn to lit my holid.1y t.1bk I m,1dt· ,1 ronn·nt 1.Hed mu~hro1>m \tnt•k
U\1:1g .1 mix of che,1p, rL·Jdily availahll' button mushrooms with ,1 lt•w cxot1r \,lnctie\
.iddcd for l'Xtr.i 11.wor, and \ub\titutL·d 1t lor tht· tru!!lt• \totk in tht· p01.110 \oup. I m,1tk
tlw hot potatol'\ exactly ,1s imt rutll'U, .rnd l hl'll kq1t t hnn w,11 m 111 thl· O\'t'll whill' I
put thl', hilled \Ollp into \mall bowl\. Ratllt'I th.111 1rnp.il111g till' d11w. l',Hml'\atl , and
butter onto ,1 pin, I U\cd them to g.11111sh till' \oup .11 the !,1st minult'. ,1ddl'd .1 ft'w drops
of tru!lle ml on top for 11.wor .ind .rrom,r, .111d brought tht· bowls to till' t.1ble I then
r<'lumt·J to the tablt• with tht· hot potato balb and added a kw to l.'ad1 bowl of .:old to us than other\. Thi<; book 1s meant to encourage and inspire you to experiment with
,oup. Tht· dTcct wa' wonderful, with the hot butter-soaked potall>I.'' ae.Hing Jn Jmazing common foods in new way\ Not everything will work, not every recipe or dish will be .i
temper,11ure wntrJ\t to the ri.:h, creamy. Yery cold soup. The di'h la.:ked the interJct ion, success. Novelty docs not nnTssarily prove insightful or pleasurable. In fact. it is usually
,urpn,e, and ,ophl'tit'ation of the restaurant presentat10n, but it WJ\ dclic:ious, uniqul.', the opposite But wht"n you do hll on that twist of fl.ivoring. that combination that is
,ind .:ippr<•t·iatt•d b,· .:ill It was also remarkably ~imple to execute. transform.Hive, you will movl' bt"yond "making dinner" to simply "making," and th.it
is exhilarating, sati,fying. and delicious
And tht'H' lie' the real surpri\e to these recipes: none of the techniques i\ difficult taken
alone Alinea 1' a ku,·hen ba,ed on precision, and the recipes often read more like .-i book
on bakmg than a book on cooking. Follow them exactly and it 1s unlikely something will
go wrong. It 1s rare that you are asked to sear, saute, or make judgments on doneness. The recipes in this book arc the l'Xact recipes used in the Aline.a kitchen, but scaled to
The other 'urpri,t· h that the \pecial tools. ingredients, and "gadgets" that recei\'e so
much attt•nuon are not as exom: as \"OU initially imagine, and most can bt• easily re-
created in a home kitchen with a little ingenuity. The antigriddle, Volcano \'aporizer,
Pacojet, and other "appliances" put to work in the Alinea kitchen arl.' used primarily
becau'e they 'oh·e the problem of accurately and efficiently producing a desired result
eight servings. We have included both gram\ .ind ounces, centimeter.. and mches, and
Celsius .ind Fahrl'nhell temperatures for the <;ake of convenience, but nearly all of the
weights were originally \ca led in gram\, all of the lengths were figured in inches, and
all of the temperatures were mea<,ured in Fahrenheit Round-number or round-fraction
measurements are the "unconverted" originals, and we en..:ourage you to use those.
. '
at least one hundred tunes each evening, fiye davs a week. In the home kite: hen, you EYery dish is presented in 1t<; entirety without referen..:e to other dishes or recipe.,
can re-create a ba,ic antigriddle using dn ice and a baking sheet or the back of a However, in some case\ it i\ neither de\irable nor practic.ible to scalt• some recipe
~patula, which is what Grant and I used in my home kitchen when ht• was creating the elements, usually stot"ks or sauce\, to eight servings. In such instances, we provide
origmal Alinea menu That said, you may find that you enJOY the remits of \OU\ 1•1</t• the recipe for a larger amount that can be reliably m.ide, believing it will be obviom
cookmg \O much that buying a basic vacuum sealer for the home is a smart invl.'\tment. these recipes will produi:e .i surplu\ that can be reserved and used at another lime.
"Experiment fir\t, and worry about the technology later" is a primary rule of the Ahnea
kuchen, and it should be yours as well. Almost every di\h ha\ Jt lca\t .in ingredient or two that may be difficult to find or
source. In some case\, logical substitutions may be made or the ingredient d1minatl'd
Grant 1s fond of saying that manipulation is not a bad word .it Alinca. l'ood is rnmtantly without sacrihcing thl· overall appe.il of'thl.' dish. We will also haw a sourdng ,::uide on
being modified whenever it i' cooked and presented, and changing forms. textures, the Alinea Mosaic website for both ingredient\ and equipment and will bt• updating
and temperature' i\ the go.ii of every recipe Some presentation' are JU\I more fam1li.ar 1t seasonally. as purwyor\ for \UCh nem' often change
INGREDIENTS
A powerful hydrocolloid, gellan \ets at low A substance that controb the flow and The familiar h)ol t)fJJm and jelly makers. pl'ctin
Ocri\'l.'d fr1lm red alga<' or seaweed, agar agar A sug.1r .1lcohol made from fruit , often uwd in Morc colorfully known as meat
c1mcentration\. Two type' of gcllan gum arc produccd by thl' vi'>CO\ity of water. Most hydrocollmds arc complex sugars s extracted fr1,m fru1h, mduding apple., and citrus fruit, ,
(oltl'n ll'frrred to J ' 'impl\' agar) form' rigid, brittle gel\. It has "sugar-free" mints and diet foods. It i' 60 percent a\ '>Weet glue, transglutaminase is an enzyme that bonds proteins.
bacteria \phmsom1>n<.1\ dodca. Low-acyl gellan gum aeatc'> extracted from natural sources, hkl• fruit, microbes, or seaweed h1gh-mcthoxy yellow pectin, the traditional \"er,ion sold in
long been a rradmon.1l 11tgred1ent in Asian cooking. primarily a\ tab1c 'ugar and functions J\ an <'muls1hcr a\ well as a Industrial uses include binding sau\agcs and reconstituted
hard, noncla\t1c. brittle gels; h1gh-acyl gcllan gum form'> i.perm.irk(t\ , re4t11re' ~ugar and acid to ~ct, and forms a cll.'ar humectant, absorb.ng moisture from tht• atmosphere
for "'eet' m.1king, and 1' aho u,ed as a growth medium for proteins like chicken nuggets. Chef\ arc u.'>mg Jt to combine
A general term for a number of modified ~I w ith 1w bubble, , Low-methoxy pectin sets in reat:tion to
laboratory culture,. It 1., 'tirn:d mto cool liquids and then .'>Oft. ela'>tit. rubbery' gel\ The two forms can be mixed for d 1spa1Jtt: p10tcim, or to bmd the clements of dishes like fish
mtermcd1ate texture.'>. Some products. such as Kckogel I.I. blcnd sugars composed of finer crystal structure'> than standard table .iluum . ;\'.H pectin forms a thermo-reversible gel and can be
heated to J b1)il. The gel will .,et once the mixture cools to 95 'f Lecithin ocrnrs naturally in egg yolb, noodles. Transglutamina\c is sold commercially by Ajinomoto
high- and low-acyl gdlan gums to achieve a '>pecific tcxturc sugar, lead mg to a smoother texture and less aystalltzauon melted d,m n .ind reset. Pectin gels are firm and shiny.
p'> C)• .ind mu'i be heated to JX5 F (!WC) before it melts again. but mo\t commercial lecithin is extrat:tcd from soybeans. It as Activa TG.
Bcl'JU\c of It.'> power, gellan in amounts a'> low a.'> 0 . 1 pcrcl'nt by in the product.'> in which they are U\ed. Invert \ugar '>yrup is
Start with O. 5 perlent ol agar agar by weight for a gel of a\'erage is a powerful emulsifier, stabilizing a mixture that normally
formed by combining simple syrup wllh acid and heating it, A sour salt that r.in be used to
firmnc~,; acidic liquid' will decrea.,e its gelling power. To mah• weight can hl· effective. would ~ep.1rate (such as cocoa and cocoa butter in cho<olatc, Thc trade name of a modified tapioca
whil:h breaks down sucrosc to it<; component sugars, glucose gulat(' acidity and a' a presen·atiw.
puddmglikl' '.iucc, , 'ct the liquid with agar agar and blend thl' or oil and water in a vinaigrettej It also .'>tabilize'> air.'> , foams, starch sold by National Starch It swells in cold water and can
Gelatin 1s extracted from coll.igen, the connectn:l' .ind fructo.'>e. Trimoline 1s one type of invert sugar syrup.
re,uhmg gel until .,m1>oth and translucent. and froths created by beating air into watery liquids. It can be be used to thicken dair\ products and other subtlv f!a\'Ored
ti\sue in animab. The most familiar hydrocolloid, 1t gi\-C\ Other products such as isomalt, which is produced from sugar A gel dt:rivcd from dissol\'ed directly into cold solutions, and then the mixt ure can foods, as it will not ma;k their tastc. -
A compound used in combination meat \tock\ their di\tincti\'e body through thl' extraction of akohols. and fondant, which i<; .i paste formed of 'ugar, water, own algae, prop\'lene glycol alginate is used as a thickener be frothed with an immersion b:cnder. A r.it>o of 0 .6 pen;cnt
with sodium alginate in the 'pherification process. Calcium the protein m the bone.'> u\ed to make the stock.'>. Compared and cream of tartar, are also u<,ed when the properties of regular nd stab1hzer, oftl.'n in ice creams and salad dressings. lecithin by weight will create a stable foam. This is the trademarkcd name for a modified
lactate h preferred to alternative.'> ..uch a.'> calcium chloride to other hydrocolloids. gelatin has a low melting pomt, which \ugar are undesirable.
tapioca food stJrch made by National Starch. Used in much
because It ha' a le.,~ bitter ta<>te, and it is fat-soluble. gi\"cs 11 an ex<ellcnt mouthfeel and fla\·or release A modified food starch made from corn A hydrocolloid-based technique for the same way as xanthan gum, Ultra Tex 3 ha.'> a bland taste.
This common acid gin'5 sour milk products Gram Proce,smg Corporation. It forms clear, flexible films creating a product with a liquid center surro.inded ~..,>th a gel thickens in cold water, and p1e\e1 \e\ the ta~tc dnd lulu1 uf tht:
There arc two main types of this .'>eaweed- One of the two simple \ugars that comprise table such a!> yogurt their distinctive flavor. Tradinonally it wa' tthout requiring hydration or cooking. Products thickened that holds it together. Sodium alginatc is the key ingredient that original liquid The finished product can be dried or frozen in a
deriwd hydrocolloid, traditionally known as Irish moss and sugar, gluco\e i\ the primary source of energy for hum.in' fermented from lactose, but nowadavs mo'>t commcrci.11 th Pur<.'-Cote dry into a crispy "glass" at room temperature. enables the technique, while various callium compounds are thin sheet.
now produced primarih· m the Philippines. Kappa carrageenan and is the building block tor starches. Gluco\e 1s produced by product' are made by u!>mg bacll'ria to tcrment 'uch nondairy
U\cd tc> create the correct ratio of caluum to sodium alginate for
yield., hrm. brittle geh that \ct quickly. making them practical breaking down \larch using acids or enzyme'> It I\ available in \tare hes as potatoes. Lactil' acid i' often U\l.'d to adju't the The best known of the postmodt·rn the desired effect. A soy protein sold by Kerry B1osuence that can
for enrobing or cowring other ingredients. Iota carrageenan two form\ for kitchen use syrup. the most common type, ,md pH of food\ . It also greatly inaea,cs the th1ckl·nmg powa of
\ d rocollo1d'>, sodium alginate is extracted from brown seaweed replace egg whites or gelatin . Ver\awhip can aerate and stabilize
\dS mto a "'fter, mon· cla\til gel, much like a traditional egg powdcr ('>oml'timc\ \Old as "dextrose") Use the wrup when carrageenan in nondairy produds.
'1U form\ gl·h when in the presence of calcium. These gels arc Several companies market blend\ of foams to twice the volume of egg whites. The foams .:an be
cu.,tard Both type\ are mixcd into cold liquids and then heated rccipcs call tor simply gluco.'>c Glucose is 70 percent .1s \\'\eel 1onreversible, ~o they can be heated after setting. No heat i\ hydrocolloids, emulsifiers, and invert .'>ugar\ dc\igned to add served hot or cold .
to acti\·atc. Their thickening power is roughly fi"e times greater a\ tablc \ug.ir (\ucrosc) and helps pre\·ent cry'>tJllil.ation. It al\o The principal at' id in tart .ippks .rnd many
cessary tv produce the gelling reaction. Alginate is a fussy .i creamy texture and retard ice crystal formation in frozen
m milk-based product.-. than water-based products. as the caramelize\ at a lower temperature than table \ugar. other fruit'> and \'egetable.'>, mahc .1cid i' much more "1ur than
gredient, \ensitiw to the amount of calcium it is reacting dc\scrts. Different blends are used for dairy· based and water- Xanthan gum, which is produced by the
compound reacts with lactic acid cllnl' .1cid, leading to its U\c m 'upcr-,our candie' and the hkc
t h. and it works poorly in acidic environment.,. There arc based applications. Alinea primanly use\ produl·ts from Lou1.'> fermentation of glucose or .,Ill ro'c by th•· bacteria Xar;tht>nwna~
More correctly known by ii\ chemilal n.1me,
\\O Wa\ ~to create encar.,ulated sphere!> using sodium alginate. forarn;oi\ . C(impe~tr-i~, is usl.'d to thicken and .,tabili1c \U\pcmion\ and
The acid that g1\'e., c1tru., fruits their familiar glycerol, this compound i., an odorless. clear, vi,cou\ liquid . A Unlike othl·r gelling a_!!enb.
n the c.onvcnuo11dl mcthod , d fid\"Or ba.,c conl.ilining \odium emulsions. It hJs nearly the same \'bcos11y hot or cold, so the
zmg. citric acid 1s used in powdered form to adjust the pH of \ugar alcohol, glycerin can be used to add ~Wl'l'tnc~ ... to kl"l'P methykelluk>'e thicken' a' it 1' heated , rather than ,1, it C'oo(,
1gmate is dropped into a calcium-rich soluuon. In the second This modifll·d food stanh cook doesn't have to account for the temperature of the finished
a solution so 1t can be used with other hydrocolloids. or as a product\ moi\l (it .ibwrbs moisture from the .11mmphcrc) .•md "' the gel cool\, it "melts" Additwnall\', meth\ lcclluo'e c.111
nethod, known as reverse encapsulation, calcium is added was developed to mcrease the volume of dry mixl'' .ind fron·n product. and it can thicken addi<' or alcoholil• .,olutions.
seasoning to gl\e a dish a ~our ta\tc. It 1~ available in many a\ .m edible lubnc.rnt for molds. be u'ed to 'iabilize foam' and whipped preparanon,, DO\\
the base .iguid, and the base is then submerged ma bath foods . But it also stJbilizes high-fat ingredient\, transform.ng Xanthan gum thickened mixturl''> will b~havc likl• we.1k gels
grocery store~. sometimes labeled as " sour '>alt." Chemil·,11 .,e1i., the c1lmp1lt111d, Crl',lted fnm1 modified plant
onta111111g ~odium alginate Both methods create thin-walled them into povvdcn. Since it dissolve~ in nrntJrt with moisturc, until shaken or poured, .rnd then tht•y w ill llow likl• .i liquid.
A hydrnl"<>lloid made,_• Imm thl• endo\pl'rm ol cl'llulo\e, m many dilfrrent C'Onlcntratum' unda thl· trade
rbs wuh a liquid center. the ingredients reconstitute in the mouth. Start with 60 pnrcnt Concentrations will rarely exceed 05 percent by weight; a
thc gu.H bc.111 plant, Cywnop\t\ /t•tra:;;mwlobu,, Gu.1r gum i' ,1 n.11nc.: Mctho..:cl; Alim·.1 prdi:r' ;\\cthol·d l·'ill.
fat to 40 percent tapioca maltodextrin, and mix in J food higher concentr.uion l-.lll k·.1d to ,1n unplt'J\.lllt texture.
vcr..atilc ingrcdicnt, c.1pablc of thickcmng, emu1'itvmg..ind
1.cmon-lime soda gcts lls sour and processor or by hand until a powder form\. N-Zorbit M 1s the
\tahill/ing mixture'>. It i., u\cd in some ire rrc.1111 ..1.1blilzn,
;alty fldvur~ fn1m th1\ n>mpound . It is used as an acid buffcr 11Jmc uf a popul.ir tapioca maltmlextrin wld hy N.11wn,1l St.1rd1.
to prevent thc form.llion of icc crystab ,md i\ et lcdi\'l' in
to a<.1 1u..i the pH of a ~olution for use with sodium alginate or
preventing w.l!cr from weeping out of pastry hllings. \\'ht'n
otht:r hydrmolloids. ~uch as low-acyl gellan gum.
gu.ir gum I'> U\cd 111 l<>mbm.Hion with x,1nth.m gum, tlw
thirkenmg power of l.'ach i\ increased .
CENTERPIECE
(}u1111g thl• dl'\lgll pro•C" of ,\lint'J, we n1Jdt• Jll dfort tll l)LIC\lion
cn~r\' ckmt'nt oftfw d111111g exraierKC \\'c tried to identlf\' ea(h
,1spect of what <1111\lltUI<.'\ J IC\tJUr.Jnt, l"'lllth ph.\'\iCJJly and
<"xp<"11cnti.ilh•, and trn·d ll> .:h.1lk·n~t· cwry .1,pn·t \ purpo'c
Tlw tJbktop j, tht.' stage whnt.' a pcrformJn(e will be carried out. Wt.'
deh.ncd on lww it 'hould be org,m1zed and controlled to hl'sl \upport
the rlllended t'Xpl'rit•nn: Wt• wanted the stage to become fluid, .iii\'!.'
I\ ith object' monng in and out o{ the frame, lhanging tht.' land\tJpe
and kecprng till' backdrop dynamic. We opted for bare-topped d.irk
wood t.1bfe, 111 frJme our whirt• porcelain and stdinless-steel ~er vice
pit'lt'' The tt'Xlure .md warmth of the wood grain provided a nke
contra'! to the 'mouth, tool finishes of the glasses and plates. Much
likt.' a the.iter 'et. the tJblc would hold only the props nece,sary for
a !!I' rn al't No gfa,,,., or flatw.ire would be preset. When the guests
a1r11·e. the tablt.' i' a b.irren plane with just napkins indicatrng that
dinni:r h to comt·.
When we sat down in 2006 to begin planning the Alinea book. we had .i difficult time
defining wh.it it .,hould be '>hould we make a cookbook, a book about the restaurant ,
or ho1h1 <..hnulcl wc th.rngc the reupes so they are easier for the home cook., Should
the text include stones .:ibout the restaurant, its people, the wonderful supplier<, .ind
purvevors we know? We could h.:ive easily put together a book twice this length .
Ultimately, we decided the book should mirror the dining experience as closely a<,
possible Wh.:it you hold in your hands is our translation of that experience into book
form The essays we h.i\·e induded do not examine ind1v1dual ingredient\ or the
composition of each coursc in depth By intent, we left much open to interpretation.
That is where the website Alinc.:i Mosaic comes in . You can sign up for .in account at
www.alinea-mosaic.com It is free if you ha\'e purchased this book.
The Alinca Mosaic i., the comp.inion to the book. We view them to be of equal
importance, V\'ith the aitical diffcrcnet:s being that the book is static, polished. and
tightly presented, while the website is experimental, uncontrolled. and ever rhangmg.
Demonstration videos, bonus n~upes, interactive recipe annotations. and a U\Cr forum
that allows you to ask questions directly to chef Achatz and the Alinca <,taff arc .111
on the website. Thcrt• .ire link\ to purveyors. equipment suppliers. food ide.is, and
experiments we find interesting. We have also included the essays. photogr.iphs. and
behind-the-scenes informat10n that for one reason or another did not ht m the book.
We have plenty to <>.1y. And if .ill goc\ well with Mosaic, it will be .in inform.ii pl.ice
where we c.in add to the mform.ition presented in these page<;. And it promi\es to be
a place where we ean lc.1rn from you .is wdl
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5 large surf clams
185 g (6 5 oz) shallots
75 g (2 6 oz) canola oil
25 g ( 9 oz) butter
3 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) water
1 g ( 04 oz) black pepper
60 g (2 1 oz) white wine vinegar
100 g (3 5 oz) sugar
7 g (.2 oz) kosher salt
1 cucumber, halved lengthwise and seeded
black pepper
24 sorrel leaves
8 lengths cooked king crab leg, 3 inches (7 6 cm) long whole wheat baguette
50 g (1 .8 oz) toasted sesame oil, an spray mister
kosher salt
8 passion fruits
100 g (3 5 oz) water
100 g (3 5 oz) sugar
200 g (7 1 01) water
4 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
4 g ( 1 oz) c1tric acid
English cucumber
2 g ( 07 oz) xanthan gum
2 g ( 07 oz) Ultra-Tex 3
300 g (10 6 oz) fennel bulbs, cut into 1 inch (2 S cm) pieces
100 g (3 S oz) shallots, cut into 1 inch (2 S cm) p1ecH
100 g (3 S oz) celery cut into 1-inch (2 S cm) p ieces
6 black peppercorns
1 fresh bay leaf
750 g (1 lb 10 S oz) dry vermouth
24 littleneck clams scrubbed and r nsed 1n cold water
10 mussels scrubbed, rinsed 1n cold wate~ and beards removed
4 razor clams scrubbed and rinsed 1n cold water
4 whelks scrubbed and rinsed 1n cold water
12 smaU to medium corri1chons, drained and rinsed
t
2 small Yukon Gold potc1tot:~. peeled
500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) clarified butter
cpi'>ant ga•hc cloves kosher salt
Q 1 lb 10 ~oz) sk m rr1lk
e• sat
500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) canolc1 od
24 large paro;ley le.:i1res stems removed
kosher 'Salt
1 sugar cube
9 5 g { 3 oz) Bal sea s<ilt
7 5 g I 3 oz) cayenne pepper
14 g { 5 oz) c1tr c ac d
English cucumber 8 g (.3 oz) agar agar
500 g (1 lb 1.6 oz) soy s3uce
I lamb loin, trimrnc>d of fat sinew, and silver skin 2000 g (4 lb 6 5 oz) water
(about 1SO qfS 3 oz after trimming) 50 g (1 8 oz) kosher salt
Sq ( 2 oz) olive o,I 250 g (8 8 oz) fava beans, removed from pods
and peeled before weighing
5 g ( 2 oz) kosher salt
30 g (1 1 oz) olive oil
2 eucalyptus branches
5 g ( 2 oz) eucalyptus oil
+ 4 egg yolks
128 g (4 5 oz) sugar
38 g (1 3 oz) cornstarch
9 g ( 3 oz) kosher salt
60 g (2 1 oz) olive 011
2 heads garlic
15 g ( 5 oz) olive oil
20 N1i;o1se olives
00 9 (2 lb 3 3 oz) vequs 500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) lemon thyme 1nfus1on
f 0 g (7 1 oz) suqar 250 g (8.8 oz) sugar
4 1/ , gelatin sheets
1 gPlatin .:;hppt
13 g (.5 oz) egg yolk
500 g (1 lb 1.6 oz) heavy cream
set>ds of? vani lla hP;in<;
55 g (1 .9 oz) sugar
3 g (.1 oz) kosher salt
2 scallions
50 g (1 8 oz) Bl1s stcelhead roe
8 whole ayu 1/4
small seedless watermelon
kosher salt 75 g (2.6 oz) soy sauce
700 g (1 lb 8 7 oz) canola oil
10 cilantro stems
'/•sheet kombu, about 40 g (1.4 oz) 200 g (7 1 oz) simple syrup
50 g (1.8 oz) sugar
30 g (1.1 oz) carrot
14 g (.5 oz) lemongrass
4 g (.1 oz) red chili flakes
8 g (.3 oz) shallot
10 g (.4 oz) ginger
95 g (3.4 oz) soy sauce
10 g (.4 oz) sake
10 g (.4 oz) water
1300 g 2 b 13 9 oz umb a p rag
3 Meyer lemons
15 g ( 5 oz) simple syrup
3 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
10 egg yolks
3 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
680 g (1 lb 8 oz) clarified butter
European turbot
120 g (4 2 oz) butter
240 g (8 5 oz) shellfish stock
4 whole squabs
24 chervil leaves
24 tarragon leaves
8 spngs micro dill
kosher salt
black pepper
•
200 g (7 1 oz) water
12 g ( 4 oz) red wine vineqar
16 g ( 6 oz) kosher salt
120 g (4 2 oz) butter
8 baby red beets, skin on
16 baby qolden bf'et'i, skin on
1
English cue umber 20 g ( 7 oz) coriander seed
100 g (3 5 oz) water 75 g (2 6 oz) kosher salt
100 g (3 5 oz) white wine vinegar
mo g (3 5 oz) sugar
16 c.onander flowers
8 coriander leaves
12 whole cloves
SO g (1 8 oz) kosher salt
200 g (7 1 oz) a~I purpose flour
1 small red radish
3 eggs be-ate"
120 g (4 } oz) panko, coarsely ground in spice grinder
re~uvcd inte•1or ga•n shes
3 I gelatin sheets
500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) tomato water
'000 g (2 lb 3 3 oz) water
250 q (8 8 oz) kosher salt
250 q (8 8 oz) mozzarella curd
- -.
I
8 passion fruits 5 slices prosciutto, 3 by 12 by 1/1• inch ( 7.6 cm by 30.5 cm by 2 mm)
100 g (3.5 oz) water
100 g (3.5 oz) sugar
7 gelatin sheets
200 g (7. 1 oz) water
4 g (. 1 oz) kosher salt
4 g (.1 oz) citric acid
+
60 g (2.1 oz) soy sauce
15 g (.5 oz) m1rin
1 g (.04 oz) sugar
5 g (.2 oz) rice vinegar
25 g (.9 oz) dry red wine
2 g (.07 oz) garlic cloves, minced
2 g (.07 oz) ginger, peeled and minced
250 g (8.8 oz) baby octopus legs
6 sprigs thyme
2 large leeks
2000 g (4 lb 6 5 oz) water
75 g (2 6 oz) kosher salt
, <l ~ l- 1 6 01) white button mushrooms. coarsely chopped R fresh 1un1per berries
3 trumpet royale mushrooms 2 b lood o ranges r. q 16 5 oz) carrots, peeled and coarsely chopped
25 g (.9 oz) grape seed 0 11 & .:i \6 5 oz) onion , coarsely chopped
kosher salt i, Q 2 6 o z) pars ey
black pepper f•c h b a) leaf
s"riq thyme
tt:>rs (4 qt) water
1 large red beet, ends removed
20 g (7 oz) olive 0 11
100 g (3 S oz) black truffle puree
3 medium onions
1800 g (3 lb 15 5 oz) water
15 g ( 5 oz) yellow pectin 11h scallions
200 g (7 .1 oz) heavy cream 50 g ( 1 8 oz) burnt onion stock
50 g (1 8 oz) sugar
750 g (1 lb 10 5 oz) squab stock 25 g ( 9 oz) squab stock
7 5 g ( 3 oz) citric acid
250 g (8 8 oz) burnt onion stock 25 g (.9 oz) butter
500 g (1 b 1 6 oz) fennel 1u1ce, extracted with JU1Cer
3 g ( 1 oz) sherry vinegar meat from 8 cooked squab legs
100 g (3 5 oz) glucose
4 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt reserved caramelized onions
175 g (6 2 oz) fo1e gras butter, cut into /z-mch (1 3-cm) cubes 500 g (1 b 1 6 oz) sugar
18 fo1e gras cubes
13 g ( 5 oz) soy lec1th1n 15 g ( 5 oz) kosher salt
32 w•lnut h•lves
75 g (2 6 oz) grape syrup
3 celery stalks, very tender and green, 3 g ( 1 oz) kosher Hit
4 buriches greeri seedless grapes, stemmed
peeled to remove fibrous skin
6 g ( 2 oz) kosher salt
2000 g (4 lb 6. 5 oz) water
12 g ( 4 oz) sugar
50 g (1.8 oz) kosher salt
2 g ( 07 oz) c1tr1c acid
1 1/ gelatin sheets
200 g (7 1 oz) ruby port
7 gelatin sheets
375 g (13 2 oz) grape 1u1ce m1)(ture
I '
15 9 oz) beet JUICe, extracted with Juicer 500 g (1 lb 1.6 oz) rhubarb juice, extracted with JUicer
8 o z) water 2 g (.07 oz) citric acid
8 o z' sugar 125 g (4.4 oz) sugar
oz) calcium lactate
8 o z) sugar
z sod ium alginate
2 lb 3 3 oz) water
8 fennel fronds
8 pieces dry fennel pollen
8 small sprigs tarragon
'1 at ro heets
500 (1 lb ' 6 oz) rhubarb 1u1ce
q (8 8 oz) s1mp e syrup
1 c.z tr1c ac d
575 g (1 lb 4 3 oz) raspberries 500 g (1 lb 1.6 oz) raspberry 1u1ce
110 g (3 9 oz) water 15 g ( 5 oz) rose water
50 g (1 8 oz) sugar 7 g (.2 oz) NH pectin
reserved candied rose petals
125 g (4 4 oz) whole almonds, blanched 100 g (3 5 oz) ham, in single piece
50 g ( 1 8 oz) porc1n1 stems
i 5 g ( 5 oz) canola oil
500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) whole milk
i 5 g ( 5 oz) butter
5 g (.1 oz) water
2 g (.07 oz) kosher salt
6 black peppercorns
250 g (8 8 oz) pitted dates +
250 g (8 8 oz) lamb stock
250 g (8 8 oz) water
75 g (2 6 cm) sherry vinegar
50 g (1 8 oz) olive oil
5 g ( 2 oz) kosher salt
250 g (8 8 oz) plain yogurt reserved eggplant cores from eggplant puree SO fenu9reek seeds
3 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
12 g ( 4 oz) sugar
5 g ( 2 oz) Ultra-Tex 3
1 pomegranate
8 blackberri•
reserved warm tobacco cream
1 cross section prune beef rib eye, 1800 g (4 b)
250 g (8 8 oz) raisins
5 g ( 2 oz) kosher sah
t
seeds of 10 van,lla beans 15 g ( 5 oz) yellow pectin 100 g (3 5 oz) pitted Picholine olives 24 m icro bas il leaves or tops
140 g (4 9 oz) olive oil 75 g ( 3 oz) citric acid 50 g (1 .8 oz) olive oil 24 m icro opal basil leaves
45 g ( 1 6 oz) confectioners' sugar 550 g (1 lb 3 4 oz) sugar 16 sma ll opa l basil leaves
1 g ( 04 oz) kosher salt 500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) P1chol1ne olive brine 80 Thai basil buds and flowers
40 g (1 4 oz) tapioca maltodextr1n 200 g (7 1 oz) glucose
large orange
"'9
20 g ( 7 oz) 1alapeno ch1l1 25 g (9 oz) sugar
20 g ( 7 ozl lemongrass 25 g (9 oz) kosher salt
25 g ( 9 oz) ginger 3 g ( 1 oz) g cayenne pepper
125 g (4 4 oz) soy sauce 13 g (.5 oz) water
13 g ( 5 oz) ground cinnamon 125 g (4 4 oz) peanuts
475 g (1 lb 8 oz) pineapple 1u1ce, extracted with 1u1cer
360 g (12 7 oz) brown sugar
125 g (4 4 oz) kosher salt
1 butternut squash
1000 g (2 lb 3 3 oz) water
60 g (2.1 oz) butter
300 g (10 6 oz) heavy cream
200 g (7. 1 oz) water
40 g (1 4 oz) sugar
15 g (.5 oz) kosher salt
1 lime
100 g (3 5 oz) simple syrup
3 duck tenderloins
reserved cold duck brine
1 banana
875 9 (1lb14 9 oz) h11lf-11nd-h111f
125 g (4 4 oz) dried banana chips
t 4 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
13 g (.5 oz) sugar
10 g ( 4 oz) agar agar
3 black peppercorns young coconut
1 1/z star anise pods
17 .S g (.6 oz) dry l1cor1ce extract
25 g ( 9 oz) unsulfured dark molasses
7 S g ( 3 oz) sherry vinegar
SO g (1 8 oz) sugar
100 g (3 5 oz) water
5 mature coconuts
100 g (3 5 oz) sugar
10 g (4 oz) kosher salt
l1qu1d nitrogen
t
150 g (5 3 oz) dried soybeans 1 egg yolk 750 g (1 lb 10 5 oz) canola oil
1250 g (l lb 12 1 oz) water 100 g (3.5 oz) canola oil kosher salt
45 g (1 6 oz) red m1so pinch of togarash1
13 g (.5 oz) lime 1uice 8 small chives
12 g (.4 oz) sugar
10 g ( 4 oz) water
3 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
.25 g (.009 oz) cayenne pepper
range
400 g 14 1 oz) simple syrup
4 skate wings 300 g (10 6 oz) spray-dried cream powder
100 g (3 5 oz) dried banana chips
4 sun-dried tomatoes
: .
30 g (1 1 oz) fresh bay leaves
1000 g (2 lb 3 3 oz) water
35 g (1 2 oz) sugar
5 q ( 2 oz) kosher salt
10 g ( 4 oz) soy lec.1thm
25 g ( 9 oz) butter
50 g (1 8 oz) water
1800-g (4-lb) piece center-cut Wagyu rih PY~ 1 acorn squash
50 g (1 8 oz) rendered Wagyu fat. melted 100 g (3.5 oz) rendered Wagyu fat, melted
kosher salt
25 g (9 oz) smoked paprika
5 sprigs thyme
60 g (2 1 oz) ld1azabal cheese
100 g (3 5 oz) tapioca flour
4 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
70 g (2 5 oz) water
1000 g (2 lb 3.3 oz) canola oil
t
250 g (8.8 oz) cranberries 1 orange
250 g (8.8 oz) water 5 g (.2 oz) simple syrup
125 g (4.4 oz) sugar 1 g (.04 oz) kosher salt
_j__
olive oil
8 zuta levana leaves
9 g ( 3 oz) kosher salt 65 g (2.3 oz) cinnamon sticks 500 g (1 lb 1.6 oz) apple cider
3 g (. 1 oz) pink salt 500 g (1 lb 1 .6 oz) water 200 g (7. 1 oz) glucose
3 g (. 1 oz) sugar 180 g (6.3 oz) sugar 600 g (1 lb 5.2 oz) sugar
500 g (1 lb 1 .6 oz) grade A foie gras 2 g (.07 oz) kosher salt 15 g (.5 oz) yellow pectin
4 liters (4.2 qt) water 1 g (.04 oz) cayenne pepper 7 g (.2 oz) citric acid
+
2 celery stalks
2000 g (4 lb 6. 5 oz) water
75 g (2 6 oz) kosher salt
l geoduck clam
50 g (1 .8 oz) sushi rice
5 gelatin sheets
175 g (6 2 oz) distilled white vinegar 100 g (3.5 oz) water
4 g (.1 oz) kosher salt
425 g (15 oz) water
88 g (3. 1 oz) sugar
3 g (. 1 oz) kosher salt
7 g (2 oz) agar agar
3 egg yolks
30 g (1.1 oz) lemon 1u1ce
60 g (2.1 oz) water 80 g (2 8 oz) olive oil
120 g (4.2 oz) grape seed oil 25 g ( 9 oz) tapioca maltodextnn
55 g (1 9 oz) olive 011 3 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
10 g ( 4 oz) kosher salt
+
1 bunch parsley
••
750 g (1 lb 10 5 oz) water
150 g (5 3 oz) sug1r
4 g ( 1 oz) koaher 1alt
6 g (.2 oz) lemon zest
2 g ( 07 oz) saffron threads
18 g ( 6 oz) •g•r •g•r 24 micro ch ¥91, 2tl 1nche1 (6 4 cm) long
250 g (8 8 oz) lemon JUiee
•
40 g (1 4 oz) all-purpose flour
40 g (1 4 oz) butter
375 g (13 2 oz) heavy cream
100 g (3.5 oz) minced shallot
170 g (6 oz) dill, stems removed
6 g ( 2 oz) kosher salt
SO SI (1 8 oz) p•raley
50 g (1 8 oz) dill
50 g (1.8 oz) chervil
50 g (1 8 oz) da . .
4g(1ozllrosherNlt
1000 g (2 lb 3 3 oz) water
12 inch (30 5-cm) piece kornbu, soaked
overnight and drained
100 g (3 5 oz) bonito, shaved
45 g (1 6 oz) soy sauce
12 g ( 4 oz) mirin
12 g ( 4 oz) rice vinegar
8 junsa1
t-
pork tenderloin 1000 g (2 lb 3 3 oz) all-purpose flour
775 g (1 lb 11 3 oz) yellow cornmeal
15 g ( 5 oz) baking powder
6 eggs
1500 g (3 lb 5 oz) whole milk
400 g (14 1 oz) sugar
325 g (11 5 oz) butter, melted
4 P1cholrne ohves
8 kumquats
400 g (14 .1 oz) simple syrup
reserved aquavit gelatin
..
I venison loin 500 g (1 lb 1.6 oz) canola oil
20 g (.7 oz) wild rice
3 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
t
1 medium onion
1000 g (2 lb 3.3 oz) canola oil
75 g (2.6 oz) cornstarch
3 g (. 1 oz) kosher salt
100 g (3 5 oz) dried cherries
•bunch micro sage
100 g (3 5 oz) instant rolled oats
120 g (4 2 oz) Cabernet Sauv1gnon 8 micro chives
20 g (.7 oz) puffed wild rice
120 g (4 2 oz) ruby port kosher salt
75 g (2 6 oz) celery root chips
5 g ( 02 oz) ground allspice black pepper
100 g (3 5 oz) onion chips
35 g (1 2 oz) pistachios, coarsely chopped 475 g (1 lb 8 oz) veal stock
100 g (3 5 oz) dried cherries , coarsely chopped
105 g (3 7 oz) honey
105 g (3 7 oz) glucose
1 g ( 04 oz) ground allspice
3 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
3 g ( 1 oz) black pepper
- +-
SOO g (1 lb 1 6 oz) half and-half 65 g (2 3 oz) ginger
44 g (1 .6 oz) nutmeg, cracked 200 g (7 . 1 oz) sugar
SOO g (1 lb 1 .6 oz) whole milk 300 g (10 6 oz) water
20 g ( 7 oz) whole cloves 10 g ( 4 oz) honey
10 g (.4 oz) honey 75 g (2 6 oz) sugar
30 g (1 . 1 oz) allspice berries 2 9 ( 07 oz) p1stach10 oil
1 1'2 gelatin sheets 7 g (.2 oz) calcium lactate
12 g ( 4 oz) cinnamon sticks 1 g ( 04 oz) kosher salt
25 g ( 9 oz) nonfat powdered milk 1400 g (3 lb 1.3 oz) water
1 g ( 02 oz) cayenne pepper 150 g (S 3 oz) water
S g ( 2 oz) Louis Franc;o1s STAB 2000 stabilizer 65 g (2.3 oz) sugar
75 g (2 6 oz) sugar
100 g (3 S oz) Iranian p1stach1os
10 g ( 4 oz) glucose powder 6 g ( 2 oz) sodium alg inate
300 g (10 6 oz) water 8 g (.3 oz) p1stach10 oil
38 g (1 3 oz) Pure-Cote 9790 modified food starch 1 50 g (S 3 oz) water
1 g ( 04 oz) kosher salt
90 g (3 2 oz) p1st.;ch1os
195 g (6.9 oz) butter, room temperature 2 Fuyu persimmons
82 g (2 9 oz) confectioners' s..igar 100 g 3 5 oz P neau des Charentes
1 g { 04 oz) kosher salt
seeds of 1 vanilla bean
50 g (1 8 oz) eggs
160 g (5 6 oz) pastry flour
1 egg
50 g (1 8 oz) water 500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) Mediool dates
500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) water
95 g (3.4 oz) port
250 g (8 8 oz) sugar
1 g (.04 oz) kosher salt
50 g (1 8 oz) grape seed oil
120 g (4 2 oz) buckwheat groats 500 g (1 lb 1.6 oz) water 135 g (4.8 oz) passion fruit 1u1ce
1000 g (2 lb 3.3 oz) whole milk 50 g (1.8 oz) peppermint leaves 135 g (4.8 oz) eggs
60 g (2.1 oz) sugar 12 g (.4 oz) Methocel F50 135 g (4.8 oz) sugar
20 g (. 7 oz) condensed milk 180 g (6.3 oz) sugar 175 g (6 2 oz) butter, cold. ruhPn
30 g (1 1 oz) nonfat powdered milk 3 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
8 g (.3 oz) glucose powder 2 g (.1 oz) citric acid
3g ( 1 oz) kosher salt 3 drops peppermint 011
1gelatin sheet
4 g ( 1 oz) Cremodan 64 stab1l1zer
20 g ( 7 oz) sugar
250 g (8 8 oz) passion fruit 1u1ce reserved coffee pudding 180 g (6 3 oz) all-purpose f our about 60 pieces micro mint
6eggs
100 g (3 5 oz) sugar reserved mint cream 360 g (12 7 oz) sugar 180 g (6 3 oz) buckwheat flour
3 5 g (. 1 oz) agar agar 175 g (6 2 oz) whole m le 220 g (7 8 oz) almond flour
1 g ( 04 oz) xanthan gum 180 g (6 3 oz) brown sugar
40 g (1 4 oz) Trebht coffee extract
375 g (13 2 oz) all-purpose flour 4 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt
12 g ( 4 oz) baking powder 220 g (7 8 oz) butter, cut into small cubes
30 g (1 1 oz) cocoa powder
225 g (7 9 or) glUCOM
150 g (5 3 oz) grape seed 011
12 Black M1ss1on figs 50 g (1 8 oz) cassia buds
250 g (8 8 oz) ruby port 1100 g (2 lb 3 3 oz) whole milk
125 g (4 4 oz) dry red wine 2 gelatin sheets
60 g (2 1 oz) glucose 100 g (3 5 oz) sugar
25 g (.9 oz) sugar 25 g ( 9 oz) nonfat powdered milk
5 g ( 2 oz) Louis Fran~o1s STAB 2000 stabilizer
10 g ( 4 oz) glucose powder
25 g ( 9 oz) sweetened condensed milk
..
3 chives
+
young coconut
t
50 g (1 .8 oz) brown mustard seed
50 g (1 .8 oz) yellow mustard seed
100 g (3.5 oz) water
10 g (.4 oz) white wine vinegar
6 g (.2 oz) sugar
2 g (.07 oz) kosher salt
3 Granny S•1·11th apples 2000 g (4 lb 6 5 oz) w<iter
15 g ( 5 oz) Sl'np e syrup 100 g (3 5 oz) kosher salt
l g ( 2 oz) kost>er sa t 20 c.elery stalks c.ut into 2-il"C h (5 1-cm) engths
3 g ( 1 oz) c. tric ac. d 3 g ( 1 oz) Kosher salt
') g ( 2 oz) simple syrup
4 monkf1sh loins
about 80 g (2 8 oz) cornstarch
1000 g (2 lb 3 3 oz) canola oil
reserved curry salt
2 Fuyu persimmons
100 g (3 5 oz) water
500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) sugar
3 lamb loins, removed from saddle 500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) Medjool dates
120 g (4 2 oz) ohve orl 500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) water
100 g (3 5 oz) aged sherry vinegar
100 g (3 5 oz) sugar
5 g ( 2 oz) kosher salt
2 g ( 07 oz) black pepper
30 g (1 1 oz) ohve orl
30 g (1 1 oz) canola o I
250 g (8 8 oz) sugar
•
1 red bell pepper
250 g (8 8 oz) kosher salt
50 g (1 8 oz) smoked paprika
25 g ( 9 oz) chrpotle ch1l1 powder
200 g (7 1 oz) pork belly
large carrot
25 g ( 9 oz) sugar
25 g ( 9 oz) water
25 g ( 9 oz) white wine vinegar
245 g (8 6 oz) fondant English cucumber 16 marioram leaves with stem attached
125 g (4 4 oz) glucose
125 g (4 4 oz) 1somalt
5 g (2 oz) sweet smoked paprika
3 g ( 1 oz) cayenne pepper
25 g ( 9 oz) polenta
75 g (2 6 oz) water
13 g ( 5 oz) kosher salt
20 g ( 7 oz) butter, cut into CJbes
20 g ( 7 oz) mascarpone cheese
250 g (8 8 oz) water 125 g (4.4 oz) eggs
9 g (3 oz) agar agar 75 g (2.6 oz) tapioca maltodextrin
250 g (8 8 oz) yuzu 1u1ce 250 g (8.8 oz) yuzu juice
100 g (3 5 oz) sugar
'
10 pears
1500 g (3 lb 4 9 oz) kosher salt
100 g (3 5 oz) sugar
200 g (7 1 oz) N1~01se olives, pitted 360 g ( 12 7 oz) all-purpose flour
50 g (1 8 oz) olive oil 220 g (7 8 oz) almond flour
180 g (6 3 oz) confectioners' sugar
10 g ( 4 oz) kosher sa't
110 g (3 9 oz) butter
110 g (3.9 oz) olive oil
reserved olive 011 iam
5 egg yolks
100 g (3 5 oz) Trnl'oline
100 g (3 5 oz) glucose
20 g ( 7 oz) kosher salt
450 g (15 9 oz) olive 011
24 saffron threads
1000 g (2 lb 3 3 oz) crab apples 500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) water
100 g (3 5 oz) sugar 125 g (4.4 oz) sugar
3 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt 8 g ( 3 oz) kosher salt
3 g ( 1 oz) citric acid
12 g ( 4 oz) agar agar
10 g (.4 oz) eucalyptus 011
50 g (1 8 oz) glucose 3 egg yolks 240 g (8.5 oz) white Cheddar cheese
50 g (1 8 oz) fondant 50 g (1.8 oz) glucose 300 g (10.6 oz) whole milk
125 g (4 4 oz) 1somalt 50 g (1.8 oz) Trimoline
black pepper 2 g (.07 oz) kosher salt
185 g (6.5 oz) olive oil
16 sea grapes
1 bunch parsley
4 gelatin sheets
30 g (1.1 oz) mint leaves
250 g (8.8 oz) water
35 g (1.2 oz) sugar
2 g ( 07 oz) kosher salt
seeds of 1 vanilla bean
+
. . .inslllli ... ult
2000 g (4 lb 6.5 oz) water 8 tamanllos, c.ores removed
100 g (3 5 oz) d1st1lled white vinegar 5 g ( 2 oz) kosher salt
2 live female Maine lobsters, 680 g (1 lb 8 oz) each 10 g ( 4 oz) sugar
kosher salt 8 g ( 3 oz) agar agar
+-
•
!6 to 20fresh1un1per berries
•
. .•
1 fennel bulb stalks and fronds removed
l 3 kg (5 lb) veal bones, cut into 2-inch (5 1-cm) lengths 350 g (12 3 oz) boneless beef short ribs 800 g (1 lb 12 2 oz) sals fies, peeled. /,inch
and fronds reserved
2 calf's ft>N, c;pl1t lengthwise reserved root beer cure (1.9 cm) in diameter
3 onions diced 225 g (7 9 oz) veal stock seeds of 1 vanilla bean
·s g (2 6 oz} water
30 g (1 1 oz) butter
6 carrots, d cC>d 60 g (2 1 oz) butter
10 g ( 4 oz) sugar
25 g ( 9 oz) black peppercorns b g ( 2 oz) kosher salt
1 bunch thyme
230 q (8 1 oz) tomato paste
large turnip
SO g (1.8 oz) rendered goose fat
2 large sweet potatoes 200 g (7.1 oz) grade A fo1e gras, 2 1/z-by-4-inch 8 small polished rocks
50 g (1 8 oz) rendered goose fat (64-by-10 2-crn) lobe 50 g (1 8 oz) rendered goose fat
kosher salt
75 g (2.6 oz) canola oil
Maldon sea salt
blood orange
1 orange
25 g ( 9 oz) grape seed oil
38 g (1 3 oz) sugar
2 g ( 07 oz) kosher salt
250 g (8 8 oz) orange iu1ce
24 fennel fronds
'.
100 g (3 5 oz) all-purpose flour
12 g ( 4 oz) baking powder
15 g ( 5 oz) cornstarch
4 gelatin sheets 35 g (1.2 oz) wildflower honey
685 g (1 lb 8.2 oz) rose water 30 g (1 . 1 oz) melted butter
115 g (4 1 oz) water 60 g (2. 1 oz) sugar
8 g (3 oz) N H pectin seeds of 1 vanilla bean
12 g (.4 oz) agar agar 3 g (. 1 oz) ground cinnamon
1 g ( 04 01) kosher salt 15 g (.5 oz) sweet curry powder
2 g (07 oz) citric acid 3 g (.1 oz) hot curry powder
125 g (4.4 oz) sugar 2 g (.07 oz) dried tonka bean, ground in
20 g (.7 oz) sorb1tol spice grinder to fine powder
2 g (.07 oz) kosher salt
180 g (6.3 oz) old-fashioned steel-cut oats
_L
I
200 g (7 1 oz) apple wood sawdust
1000 g (2 lb 3 3 oz) whole milk
100 g (3 5 oz) heavy cream
75 g (2 6 oz) sugar
50 g (1 8 oz) egg yolk
25 g ( 9 oz) glucose
3 g ( 1 oz) guar gum
220 g (7 8 oz) cherry wood chips 150 g (5 3 oz) brioche, crust removed
500 g (1 lb 1 6 oz) ice 625 g (1 lb 6 oz) half-and-half
175 g (6 2 oz) sugar 12!> g (4 4 oz) sugar
3 g ( 1 oz) kosher salt 2 g (.07 oz) kosher salt
10 g ( 4 oz) agar agar seeds of 4 vanilla beans
125 g (4 4 oz) butter. cut into cubes
1 baguette
100 g (3 S oz) olive oil
100 g (3 S oz) simple syrup
SO g (1 8 oz) confectioners' sugar
SO g (1 8 oz) cocoa powder
1 pomelo
1 celery heart
100 g (3 5 oz) creamy peanut butter
8 micro celery sprouts
25 g { 9 oz) sugar
8 g (.3 oz) yellow pectin
250 g (8 8 oz) Concord grape Juice
200 g (7 .1 oz) sugar
25 g ( 9 oz) 'somalt
25 g ( 9 oz) glucose
4 g ( 1 oz) citric acid
100 g (3 5 oz) peanut butter
64 g (2 3 oz) tapioca maltodextrin
..
11/'i 1q Root Reer Cure. 3% carrots, 289, 377 Squab. Thai Peppercorn, Strawberry, Oxalis Pods,
TunJ. C.indied .mJ Dried. 106 7 VinegJr c;d, 262 Lime 1.-c Cre,1m, 211
o yster, \~anger ..,1eelhe.1d Roe. Beer. 94 Root Heer Sauce. 156 erab apples, 3 39 105· 7
SJS\dfr.1', E:n.::Jpsul.11ed in J\.1dndarin Ice. 86 89 Squab, Watermelon, I acoricc, F01e Gras. 158-61 Goot Tapioca Pc.iris, Q2 Mint Puc.Jding. 212
<,aJs1fy 'mokeJ 'leelhe.id Roe, P.ir">ley Root, Radish. eggpl.1n1, 147, 189 Wild Turbot. Shdlh\h, WJtcr Chestnut~. Hyacmth
squ.ib I.cg R.i~out, 161 Pa\\ion l-ru11 1-e.11her, 65
lll 15 t'~~ yolks, 237 Vapor, 102- 3
Trout Roe, Coconut, l.Jrnrace, Pine.ipple, 226 Be.in, M.1ny Cdrmshc,, Pillow of Nutmeg Air, goose, 361 , 362 Squah Rallcttes, 106 Bacon fuwdcr. 182 Passion Fru11 PudJing. 2'J2
Chicken Fa1 Powder 141\ Pineapple Bubbles, 226
340 45 he.irt of p.ilm. 65 Squab Stock, 105, 159 Come, Blood Or.mge, Sage, Roas1mg Goose Aromas.
Dry C"'ramcl. 296 Red Curry R.il\in\, 284
Beef, I :ements of Root &er, 356-57 1.imb. 80, 188, 124 361 b5
Oh\c 011 Powder. 264 Bison. Cranberry, Pcr\1mmon, Juniper Branch
Kool Beer Cure, J5b SeJ Urchin, Vanilla, Ch1h, Mint, 347 milk, 21!6 Uuck, Pumpkin. Hanaaa, fhaa Aromatics, 224 25 Turnip Confil , 362
Peanut Grape. ltl5 Aroma. 321
Kool Beer s.iuce, 88, )Sb monkhsh, 321 Kuroge Wagyu. Squash, Y~urt, Smoked Papnka Pine Nut fuwder, l:?O M.i\·tag Blue, Gr•pc, Walnut, Port, 166-67
Sas~fra,, I nc.tpsul.ued in Mandarin Ice, 86 -89 Ayu. Kombu. l·ned Spine, Sesame, 97- 99 mushrooms. 251 Taffy, 240- -43
Pi~Lhao Powder, 288 Sherry-Walnut Vinaigrcllc. 155
Braised Kombu, 98 -99 or.anges, 195. 354, 365 Squash Soup. :?25 Vanilla -Oh\e Oil Powder, :!06 Smoked Gl.izcd Walnuts. 15 3
Lamb. Ma'itac, Date, Rosemary Fragrance, 324- 27 0.1sh1. :?69 persimmon, 284
Yuzu Powder, HO Walnut Crumb\. lf>7 •:
Matsut.rke. Pin<' :-;ul, Mastic, Ro,emary. 250-52 Kang Cr.ib. Vinegar, Aromaucs. Seaweed. 262 pheasant. 223 Almond Ice Cream, IKI Walnut Milk. 166 Kuroge Wagyu, Squash . Yogurt, Smoked Paprika
f{l1sem.iry Gel, 2 51 Kombu Syrup. 99 pork, 165, 275, 328 Brae .,nd Avocado Plaque, I :?O Herb ~hect, 109 Bitters Toffee, 126 Walnut Pudding. 121 Taff~·· 240 41
potatoes. 196. 244, 356 Buckwheat Ice Cream. 291 Wild Ba\s, Mushrooms, Red Wine. Several MarconJ Almond Crt:am, 283
L'and1cd Rose l'<·t.ils. 177
Raspberr )• Tran,parency, Yogurt, Rose Petals. 177 Ayu. Kombu, Fried Spine, Sesame, 97 99
Mango. Bonito, Soy. Sesame, 186
rhubarb. 17 3, 175
rut.ibaga. I 5 3
salsify. 264, 31 3. 156
Car.imehzed Ice Cream. 286
C.issia Ice Cream. 294
Coconut Sorbet, 167
Bergamo1 Tea, 2':14
Chocolat<', \\'armed 10 94 Degre.-,, 294
Chocol.ite Tea, 381
Basil '>.iuu~. 207
Bet:I Pudding. 112
Bcrgamot Tea, 294
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l:mbcllishmcnh, 150 55
Philip Prc,ton of l'oJy,cienn~ has continuously been gcncrous with his timc and prodigious talenh.
Thanks Jl\o to l>jord1c Stc!Jnovic of Ermenegildo Zegn.1 and to Cooktck Magnawave Systcms.
Ruth Reich). Gourmet
I 1111 ,.."
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