General Instructions

• Take lots of pictures as you take your carburetor apart. This will give you a reference of where
things go.
• Using a cookie sheet with folded up sides will help keep parts from falling on the floor.
• We suggest not removing the throttle shaft, valves, or choke shaft unless they are corroded, or
very dirty. These parts can be easily damaged and are difficult to re-assemble.
• Instruction sheets that come with our carburetor kits are somewhat generic. It may not match
your parts exactly.
• Do NOT use WD-40 around your carburetor. It reacts with ethanol.
• Using Silicon Spray Lubricant on the gaskets will help with sticking in case you need to take the
carburetor apart again.
• Be careful after taking the top of the carburetor off. Turning the carburetor upside down may
cause parts to fall out and you won’t know where they were.
• Screws and jets that are frozen can often be removed after heating outside the screw or jet.
• Stuck check balls can be removed by heating the outside of where the check ball resides and
tapping the carburetor on the work bench.
• Do not discard any parts until complete done. You may have to refer for size, or matching.

Cleaning:

• Clean with carburetor dis-assembled.

• Soak all parts except rubber & electrical in Simple Green for 2 hours. Aluminum parts will get
discolored if left longer.
• Wash parts with hot water if available to remove all chemicals.
• Blow out each passage way taking special notice of the smaller ones. Test each passage that air
goes through the entire passage.
• Blow out the idle mixture hole.
 • Check any hole above the idle mixture hole (inside the bore). This is the idle discharge and often
becomes plugged.
• A tooth brush can facilitate cleaning parts.
• Soda blasting, then washing again will make the carburetor look good any will clean any minor
deposits.
• Any corrosion, or deposits that are hard to remove may indicate the passages are also corroded
and the carburetor should be replaced.
• If your engine has been sitting for 6 months or more, the gas has probably turned, and the gas
tank will need to be cleaned as well as the fuel lines. Flushing new gas through the tank will not
be enough.

Assembly:

• Do NOT apply any gasket sealant on any of the gaskets. Gas will break sealant part and the
particles will clog the small passages.
• Test your float.
o Brass floats should be immersed into hot water. As the air inside expands any leak will
be noticeable with air bubbles.
o Plastic, or Nitrophyl floats should be weighed. The weight is in grams. Check our
technical pages for any weight specification that we may have.
• Most gaskets will fit as expected, but you may have to trim some, especially under the venturis.
• Your kit may include multiple gaskets in order to get better coverage out of the kit. Use the one
that fits the best. Look for any opening the gasket may leave allowing air into the carburetor.
Some holes may be casting holes that don’t lead to anything and do not have to be covered.
• Mounting gaskets for multiple bore carburetors do not have to have matching holes. Example a
four-barrel gasket can be open in the middle instead of 4 holes as long as the carburetor has
some kind of passage between bores. The passage is between primary, or secondary, not both.
• When adjusting the float be careful not to put any pressure on the needle. The viton tip is easily
damaged.
• Most idle mixture screws can be cleaned using a soft wire wheel. Inspect for any scoring, which
would indicate over tightening. Screw with scoring should be replaced.

Accelerator Pumps:

• On leather cups run your finger around the inside of the cup to break any manufacturer sealant.
• Apply 2 drops of oil to cups (leather, or rubber) before inserting into carburetor. Do not soak the
cup in oil. The swelling of the cup needs to happen inside the carburetor. Allow the 2 drops of oil
and the gas to do its job naturally.
• Twist the pump as you are inserting to help keep the cup from curling or folding over.
• Test your accelerator pump circuit before putting the top of the carburetor back on. Our
technical pages have instructions on how to do this for most carburetor types.
• Pump wells are usually slight tapered, and the pump will not seal until it gets towards the
bottom.
 Solex 44 PAHN-3 Rebuild Instructions

Warning! There are not any parts available for this carburetor outside of what is
contained in the carburetor kit, so take your time and do not force things. The float is
especially easy to break.

Remove the spark arrestor from the carburetor.

Unless you have a good reason to, don't take the accelerator pump rod apart from the
accelerator pump diaphragm cover. If you do need to take it apart, count the number of
turns required to back off and remove the nut on the end of the accelerator pump rod.
An alternative to counting the number of turns for the nut, is to first measure the distance
the pump rod extends through the nut before starting to remove the nut. Lift he pump
cover off the pump rod, and then slide the spring free.
Remove the attaching screws, and then lift the accelerator pump cover free of the
carburetor body. The pump diaphragm and spring can now be removed.

Remove the six screws securing the float bowl to the carburetor body. Separate the
float bowl from the carburetor body. Remove the gasket.
Remove the idle jet, and then remove the main jet. It is not necessary to remove the
body for the main jet.

Remove the float hinge pin screw, and then lift the float assembly free. Do not force
the float. It will break with very little effort.
Remove the float valve needle and seat.

Remove the check valve for the accelerator pump.

Remove the air fuel adjusting screw.

Remove the screw opening the passageway for the accelerator pump nozzle.
Removal of this screw permits blowing the passageway clean with compressed air.

WARNING! Do not remove the throttle plate unless it is dirty or corroded. The chances of breaking the
screws are great.

Remove the two screws securing the butterfly to the shaft. Slide the butterfly out of
the groove and free of the shaft. The butterfly is only removed from the shaft
because it has been damaged. If necessary, the nut can be removed from one end of
the shaft, the opposite end from the throttle arm, and then the shaft pulled free
from the throttle arm end.
Soak your carburetor parts, then wash with hot water and blow dry. Using a thin
piece of wire, clean out all of the passageways being careful not to enlarge any
passageway with the wire. In the past, using wire to run through the passageways
was not a good idea, but ethanol leaves a residue that needs to be cleared out.

Don't forget to clean your spart arrestor. A plugged and dirty arrestor can cause a
carburetor to run rich.

Assembly

If you took the throttle shaft apart, then slide the shaft through the carburetor body
from the throttle arm side. Force the butterfly into the groove in the shaft, and then
secure it to the shaft with the two phillips head screws.
Thread the screw covering the accelerator pump nozzle passage into the carburetor
body and tighten it just snugly.

Thread the air fuel adjusting screw in place.

Slowly tighten the air fuel adjusting screw until it barely seats, then back it out 4 1/2
complete turns as a preliminary adjustment at this time. This will need to be adjust
again once the engine is running and warmed up.
Install the check valve for the accelerator pump. Thighten the valve snugly.

Insert the float valve needle and seat into the carburetor body, and then tighten the
needle securely.
Place the float in position with the holes in the hinge aligned with the holes in the
brackets. Hold the float in position and slide the hinge pin through the bracket
without threads in the hole, then through the hinge, then thread the pin into the
other bracket.

Tighten the hinge pin snugly. Check to be sure the float hinge rotates freely on the
pin, with no sign of binding.
To adjust the float position, hold the carburetor in a level attitude, as shown, with
the floats facing upward. Now, measure the distance from the machined surface of
the carburetor to the top of one float, as shown. This measurement should be 1 7/8".
Check the other float in a similar manner. The measurement should be the same. To
obtain the proper measurement, carefully bend the hinge tab either downward or
upward. WARNING! This is where the float generally gets broken and new floats are
not available.

Thread the main jet into the main jet body. Thighten the jet securely.
Thread the idle jet into the idle jet body. Tighten the idle jet securely.

Check to be sure the surface of the carburetor body is clean and completely free of
any old gasket material. Lay a new gasket in place on the carburetor body with the
holes in the gasket aligned with the matching holes in the body.
Secure the float bowl to the carburetor body with the six attaching screws. Tighten
the screws evenly and alternately to prevent warping the bowl. To repair a warped
bowl manufacture a jig, using flat metal stock that will sandwich the top and bottom
of the bowl. Place in a vise and apply a small amount of pressure. Apply heat to the
bowl being careful not to melt it. It can happen fast, so keep an eye out. Put a bit
more pressure on the vise and let cool.
If the accelerator pump cover was removed from the accelerator pump rod, slide the
spring onto the rod. Slide the arm of the pump ocver onto the rod and then thread
the nut onto the rod.

Tighten the nut the same number of turns required to remove the nut. If the turns
were not counted, but a measurement of the distance the rod extended through the
nut was made, then tighten the nut until this same measurement is obtained.

Set the spring into the pump recess, and then lay the diaphragm onto the spring with
the screw holes in the diaphragm aligned with the matching holes in the carburetor.
Secure the accelerator pump cover in place with the attaching screws. Tighten the
screws evenly and alternately.

Attach a clean flame arrester to the carburetor and secure it in place with the four
nuts. Tighten the nuts securely.
Check to be sure the matching surface of the float bowl is clean and free of any old
gasket material.