Lesson 4 Manicure and Pedicure
Lesson 4 Manicure and Pedicure
Lesson 4 Manicure and Pedicure
.1 Introduction
Many of us let our fingers do the walking and our hands do the talking
- but yet do not consider them in our beauty rituals. Next to our face
there is no other part of our body that is so much in the public eye as
the nails. In this lesson you will study about nails, care of nails and
treatment of nail diseases and disroders.
4.2 Objectives
After reading this lesson you will be able to :
.3 Nails
Nail is an appendage of the skin. It is a horny extension of the skin.
The visible part is only half of the structure. Nails are made from keratin
and its condition is dependent on the body's overall health. Nails grow
about 14 inch per month. So a new nail takes about four months to
reach the tip from the cuticle. A high-protein diet, rich in iron, vitamin
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8, iodine and calcium will keep nails healthy. The technical term for
nail is onyx and the study of nail is called onychology. 47
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Nails are flat horny structures and their function is to protect the
extremities of fingers and toes. They are similar in structure to the
epidermis and hair, being formed by cells containing keratin and being
very compact.
Whilst the nail bed is similar to the matrix, it plays no part in the
reproduction of the nail plate. Around the nail base. there is a fold of
skin called epinychium or cuticle and the scarf skin under the .free
edge which can be observed when the nail has been filed is the
hyponychium. The pink colour of the nail is due to its transparency
and nails with a blue tinge denote poor circulation.
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.... Notes
~
~- <:»:
Convex Convex
Nail Structure
Lunula -+~
Matrix
Nail bed
Matrix: It is that part of the nail which lies below the fold of the skin.
From this portion the nail emerges from the flesh. This part of the nail
is called the matrix. It is supplied with blood vessels.
Nail plate: The visible part of the nail is referred as the nail plate. The
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pink colour comes from the blood vessels in the nail bed.
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Notes .... Nail bed: The underlying flesh of the entire plate is called the nail bed.
Nail root: The nail root is attached to the matrix and is enriched with
blood vessels and nerves.
Cuticle : The cuticle is the tough fold of skin that forms at the base
and sides of the nail plate and under the free edge.
Eponychium: The cuticle at the base and sides of the nail plate and
under the free edge.
Free edge: The part of the nail plate which extends beyond the finger
tips.
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Manicure ana Peaict,t•.
.... Notes
Onychogryphosis is similar to onchauxis but the symptoms are more
marked and the nail is deformed. The basic difference between the
two is that the former usually affects all the nails reflecting some
constitutional factor whilst the latter is usually the result of damage to
the nail.
.4 Manicure
It is the treatment of hands and nails. At one time manicuring treatments
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were considered a luxury enjoyed only by the rich. Today it is an 51
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Notes .... essential part of beauty treatment for both men and women.
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""';H:
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A B c o
Filing Nails
...
E F
Manicure
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Manicure ana Peaicu ..
a thoroughly professional manicure in every sense of the word. Her .... Notes
work does not just depend on knowing how to apply polish but also on
practicing complete hygiene in everything she uses and in care of the
nails. Within limitations she can treat certain nail conditions but she I
should advise her client to visit a doctor if there seems any cause for I
alarm. ii
Eight instruments -
1. Spatula
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1. Polish remover
2. Cuticle cream
3. Cuticle oil
4. Cuticle softener
5. Basecoat
6. Polish
7. Sealer }
8. Hand lotion
2. The ideal emery board is 6 inch long with a fine and coarse
side; the coarse side for quick results when the nails are too
long and need reshaping, the fine side for just tidying up. A
steel file must not be used.
3. Orange sticks are handled more easily when they are as long
as the emery board and they have a variety of uses in manicure.
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Tipped with cotton wool and dipped in polish remover they can
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be used for this purpose by the operator to ensure that she does .... Notes
not remove the polish form her own nails. (Another method of
preventing this is to grasp a piece of cotton wool between the
first and second fingers half-way down.) Orange sticks are also
used to apply oil to the cuticle, again tipping the stick with cotton
wool before dipping it in the oil, and for cleaning under the nails.
4. Cuticle knife is seldom employed and is necessary only when
a neglected cuticle has grown up the nail and adheres
obstinately to it.
5. Clippers and scissors are used to remove hang - nails or dead
cuticle left behind on the nail. Thick cuticles must never be cut
as this only thickens them further; constant manicuring and
the use of cuticle remover is the only treatment.
6. Hoof stick has a rubber end similar in appearance to a hoof
and its purpose is to gently press back and give shape to, the
cuticle; dipped in warm water and rubbed over the nail, it serves
to remove any grease.
7. Buffer finishes the actual manicure of the nails before polish when
applied it gives a smooth even surface to the nail. It is a boat-
shaped pad with a handle above, covered with chamois leather
held on by a wire frame for easy removal. It is essential to keep
this leather perfectly clean, so several should be handy and it
will be an economy to buy a sheet of chamois leather and cut it
into strips shaped to cover the pad. I
The preparations required are placed in a tray similar to a cutlery tray
and there are several types which are supported by stands. These
stands have handles enabling the operator to carry them around and
as the tray itself is large enough to carry many small bottles, the client
is able to choose the colour of polish from a well stocked tray.
• Warm soapy water: For removing stains and dirt from hands
and nails.
• Cuticle softener: It softens the cuticle and makes it easier to
lift it.
• Cuticle cream or oil: It is used for treating dry cuticles and
brittle nails.
• Cuticle lotion: It is used to treat dry cuticle and brittle nails.
• Hand lotion: it is used to softening the skin and to replace
natural oil.
• Hot oil: It is used to give hot oil manicure.
• Base coat: It is applied before applying nail polish. It adheres
quickly to the nail. It also protects the nail from stain.
• Nail polish: It is used to give shine aDd colour to nails.
• Top coat: It is a liquid applied on top of the nail polish to give
a film touch.
• Nail whiteners: Nail whiteners usually come in cream or paste
form and are used for bleaching and whitening the free edge.
• Alum solution: Due to its astringent property, it stops bleeding.
• Nail strengthener: It adds strength to the nail. It is applied on
the nails in same way as polish is applied.
i. Sanitize hands
ii. Treat dry cuticles
iii. Soften the cuticle
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i. Alcohol
ii. Acetone
iii. Oil
iv. Thinner
II. Indicate whether the following statements are true (T) or false
(F):
I. Emery board is used to clean the nails
ii. Orange wood sticks are used to push down the cuticles
iii. Alum solution is good for bleaching purpose
iv. Alcohol is used for sanitizing the tools and implements for
manicure
Procedure
1. Observe the condition of the nails and make up her mind whether
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the client is right - or left - hand.
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Notes .... 2. Remove polish from the nails of both hands starting at the little
finger following right through. Use a small piece of cotton wool
soaked in polish-remover; to avoid staining the skin surrounding
the nail take care not to allow the cotton wool to overlap the nail.
Press the cotton wool gently on to the nail, leave for a few
seconds enabling the remover to dissolve the polish before
sliding the cotton wool off the nail; one stroke should be
sufficient. Fresh pieces of cotton wool are necessary for each
nail if the polish is fairly strong in colour, or if several coats have
been applied; in all events do not let the wool get too soiled before
discarding for a fresh piece.
3. Shape the nails with an emery board commencing at the little
finger. If the client is right-handed file the nails of the left hand
first, if left handed file the nails of the right hand first. This gives
the second hand a chance to soak in the water longer - the
"working hand" needs the extra cleansing. •.. Always file from the
side towards the centre of the nails, the way they grow, never,
never backwards and forwards as this causes splitting and the
nails are likely to "layer". Do not file the sides of the nails but
leave a "shoulder" to protect the sides of the fingers and prevent
the nails becoming ingrown.
4. Apply cuticle cream to the cuticles gently massaging· it in with
the ball of the thumb.
5. Place client's fingers in a bowl of warm soapy water; a small
nail brush in the water will give her something to play with and
an opportunity to clean her nails whilst they are soaking.
6. Shape the nails of the second hand - the working one.
7. Remove first hand from the water and replace with the second
one.
8. Dry the fist hand and apply cuticle oil to cuticle with an orange
stick that has been tipped in cotton wool and dipped in oil.
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finger to the thumb. In this way the remover has a few minutes I .... Notes
in which to do its work (a small brush is usually supplied with i I
the remover) then work around the cuticle with an orange stick I
tipped with cotton wool, finally removing dead cuticle still I
adhering to the nail with clippers or scissors. I
I
11. With pointed end of the orange stick remove dirt and grease from I
under nails. Lightly tip the end with cotton wool to avoid
scratching the nail underneath. These scratches become in- I
grained with dust, etc., which is very difficult to remove.
12. Dip rubber end of hoof stick in water and rub under nails gently
and over the nails gently pressing back the cuticle.
13. Dry nails and buff with buffer. I
14. Examine nails removing with clippers or scissors any hangnails I
or hyponichium (the cuticle or scarf skin beneath the free edge I
and often left after filing).
15. Remove any trace of grease on the nail with polish-remover.
16. Apply base coat and leave nails to dry.
17. Remove working hand from water and proceed as from NO.7 to
II
No.16. I
18. Apply polish to nails of first hand. As there is usually rather too I
much polish on the brush when first removed from the bottle I
commence with !he thumb, then proceed to the little finger. (The I
operator can keep her hand steady by resting her little finger i
on the hand holding her client's finger). Allow to dry while!
applying polish to the nails of the second hand when a further
coat can be applied. It is advisable to use a very light stroke I
with brush in order to avoid a patchy look especially at the curve I
of the nail.
19. Apply a fast seal over the polish and under free edge enclosing I
the nail in a sort of envelope - helps to prevent chipping.
20. Massage a little hand lotion into the hands.
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Notes .... Oil Manicure for Brittle Nails and Neglected Cuticle
In place of cuticle cream and soaking the finger tips in water as in step
4 of the above routine, the nails and cuticles should be cleaned with
cotton wool dipped in cologne, and immersed in warm olive or almond
oil and kept warm by using a double steamer. A single egg poacher
makes a suitable receptacle; the cup can be used to hold the oil, and
the finger-tips placed in this. Then procedure continues from No.6 but
oil is substituted for water.
A small piece of tissue paper and a little spirit gum can be used to
repair split nails or to cap a fragile tip; Revlon have a kit especially for
this purpose. A piece of tissue paper slightly larger than the split is
torn off; it is covered with gum and placed over the nail tea or tip and
tucked under the nail with an orange stick; when it is drythe patch is
smoothed with cushion of thumb moistened with polish remover.
Arm Massage
The most convenient time to give a hand and arm massage is whilst
the client is sitting comfortably at the manicure table, after the manicure
has been completed but before the polish has been applied.
Roll client's sleeve well above the elbow or if she wishes the top of
her arm massaged ask her to remove the top part of her dress. Each
part is attended to separately.
The masseuse cleanses the entire arm and hand with cleansing milk,
removes it with cotton wool squares that have been dipped in warm
water and dries the arm and applies a light massage cream. The
movements are the following -
1. Rest the elbow on one hand and effleurage with the other right
to the shoulder six times; change hands and effleurage up the
other side of arm six times; this movement can best be
performed by wrapping the hand round the arm sliding quite
firmly up the arm, turning the hand when it reaches the top of
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•
the arm and sliding gently down to the elbow again on the inside .... Notes
of the arm.
2. Slide up the arm with one hand and petrissage down to the elbow
by grasping the flesh and lifting it from its underlying structure
but do not pinch; keep all the hand in contact with the flesh and
the movement becomes a suction and can be achieved by
pushing the flesh towards the top of the arm, lifting it into the
palm of the hand and then letting go, gradually traveling to the
elbow; repeat three times each side of the arm. This type of
oetrissage is called fulling.
3. Slide both hands from elbow to top of arm and holding arm
between the hands make a full circle with thumbs of both hands
gradually traveling back to the elbow; repeat three times. Turn
arm round and repeat on inside of arm three times. This is
friction. ••.
4. Holding arm lightly with both hands roll it between the hands
very quickly up and down the arm several times. This movement
is excellent for breaking down fatty tissue and firming flabby
arms. Slide down to wrist with both hands.
5. Resting wrist on one hand follow exactly the above movements
on the lower part of the arm up to and including NO.4.
6. Bend elbow, cup in palm of one hand holding wrist with the
other, make little circles on elbow with the hand six times
clockwise, six times anticlockwise.
7. Grasp elbow firmly with hand and rotate arm in a wide circle
six times clockwise and six times anticlockwise.
Hand Massage
2.
down the palm back to the finger-tips. Repeat six times.
Effleurage up the back of each finger from tips to wrist using
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thumbs of each hand alternately. Repeat three times for each
finger.
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Notes .... 3. Effleurage from tip of fingers to wrist on the inside of the hand
using your finer-tips to do so. Repeat three times for each finger.
4. Screws. Hold hands with fingers and thumb of one hand at the
palm, grasp finger-tip with fingers of the other hand and screw
by twisting your wrist; screw only one way, relax to get back to
original position; six screws will take you from the tip of the
finger up its length, then slide off finger with a slight pull. Repeat
three times for each finger.
5. Bends. Grasp finger-tips between your finger-tips and thumb
still holding client's hand as above, bend each knuckle
separately. Repeat three times for each finger.
6. Twists. Grasp finger-tip as above and rotate fingers in wide circle
six times clockwise and six times anticlockwise.
7. Press-ups. Place your first and.second fingers on the bottom
knuckle of client's finger at the back and your thumb on the tip
of her finger underneath, gently press entire finger backwards
then let is spring back. Repeat three times for each finger.
8. Bend client's elbow and place on manicure table, lay your hand
on hers, palm to palm and thumb and fingers matching, grasp
her wrist with your other hand, fingers round the front and gently
press hand backwards in the same manner as you did the
fingers, six times.
9. Keep your grasp of the wrist and slip the fingers of your other
hand between hers, rotate the hands with a wide circle six times
clockwise and six times anticlockwise.
10. Effleurage with both hands from finger-tips to elbow twice and
on the third effleurage turn one hand sideways and vibrate from
elbow to finger-tips to finish.
It is quite a good plan to perform a couple of effleurage movements
(as in (1)) in between each completed following movement.
SPECIAL MANICURE
62 This manicure is for dry and brittle nails. In this type of manicure the
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Manicure and Petficu ..
fingers are soaked in warm oil. Olive oil or cuticle oil may be used for .... Notes
this purpose.
Electric Manicure
Booth Manicure
booth manicure.
natural shine to the nails and increases blood circulation. While buffing, II
take care not to cause friction on the nail and surrounding tissues.
I. Men's nails
ii. Women's nails
iii. Square nails
iv. Corrugated nails I
Disorders and Diseases of Nails I
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This is also known as split nails. It comes off the skin very
easily. They are caused by insufficient care of the cuticle or
bad filing.
Causes
c. Incorrect diet
d. Incorrect manicure
Treatment
2. Corrugation
It is also called wavy ridges.
J
Causes
Treatment
1. Regular and correct manicure
3. Hypertropy
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Another name for it is onychais. It is the thickening of the nail
specially the toe nails,
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4. Atrophied or Onchotrophy
Causes
a. Lack of keratin
b. Heredity
Treatment
It is a contagious disease and should never be treated in a
beauty saloon. Always consult a doctor.
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Intext Questions 4.3
1. State whether the following are True (T) or False (F):
i.
ii.
Very thick
Very thin
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.5 Pedicure
A pedicure may be considered a luxury treatrnent.Tt makes the feet
feel more comfortable and helps to eliminate rough scales. It also
beautifies the feet and toe nails and thus is part of the patron's total
grooming.
[...-::1
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C. Cuticle Removal
Foot Problems
1. Athlete's foot
This is a fungal infection that attacks the toe nails and the
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spaces between the toes, making the skin feel sore and peel· .... Notes
away.
Treatment
2. Corns (Calluses)
These pads of thick, hard skin on the toes and the soles of the
feet are the body's way of protecting a part that takes a lot of
friction and pressure. Tight, ill-fitting shoes may give rise to
painful corns, on the little toe especially.
Treatment
1. Never cut the nails away at the sides or cut them too short.
2. Avoid tight fitting shoes.
i. Thickening of nails
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II. Thickening of the skin on the toes of the ·feet 67
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.7 Terminal Questions
1. Describe the nail structure with the help of a diagram.
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