Planter Box Plans

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Indoor Furniture
Dave Campbell
Editorial Content Chief, WOOD magazine

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Planter Box & Trellis

The planter box by itself makes


a handsome addition to your
landscaping.

Overall dimensions: 421⁄4" wide × 241⁄4" deep × 763⁄4" high


DP-00882 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2011 (233⁄8" high without trellis) Page 1 of 8
Stack slats to build a box the bottom frame (G/H). Finish-sand the

1 Machine the box front, back (A), and


side (B) slats to size [Materials List,
page 7]. Rout a 3⁄8" chamfer on the top
frames to 150 grit.

5 With the chamfered face of the bot-


tom frame (G/H) facing up, use a
outside edge of six front and back slats water-resistant wood glue (Type II or III
WHAT YOU’LL NEED and six side slats [Drawing 1]. Use a squar- PVA or polyurethane) to glue the box
ing brace [More Resources, page 7] to help (A–D) to the bottom frame, centered.
assemble four slat frames [Photo A]: three Then center and glue the top frame (E/F)
with chamfered edges and one uncham- to the top of this assembly with the
fered. chamfers facing down [Drawing 1].

■ Materials: ¾" cypress, 3⁄4" copper pipe.


2 Cut the front/back corner trim (C)
and side corner trim (D) to size.
Quick Tip! Stack the four slat frames
6 From 11⁄ 2"-thick stock (we laminated
3⁄4" boards), cut the front and back

feet (I) and side feet (J) to size [Drawing


PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS (A/B) with 1⁄8" spacers between them to 1a]. Cut 3⁄4×3⁄4" dadoes in the front and
■ Cypress and copper pipes endure all determine the exact length of the trim back feet as shown in Photos C, D, and E.
types of weather. pieces. Glue and screw a front/back cor- Reset the rip fence 3⁄4" from the outside of
■ Materials cost: cypress, $120; copper ner trim and a side corner trim together the blade and cut a rabbet in each side
pipe, $50. to make four corner assemblies [Drawing foot [Photo F].
1]. Finish-sand the slat frames and corner
assemblies to 150 grit. 7 Lay out the arch on each front, back
(I), and side (J) foot [Drawing 1a]; then

P 3
lant this box wherever you’d like a Starting with a chamfered slat frame jigsaw just outside the line, and sand up
splash of greenery, and perhaps (A/B), screw the slat frames to the cor- to the line. Note: Make two rights and two
some added privacy. An open grid ner assemblies (C/D). Use the 1⁄8" spacers lefts of each part. Glue and clamp a front
inside the box supports plant containers again to space the frames [Photo B]. or back foot to each side foot. After the
while allowing water, leaves, and dirt to
fall through. Build just the box (inset), or
add the wood-and-copper-water-pipe
4 Cut the top- and bottom-frame rails
(E, F, G, H) to size [Drawing 1]. Assem-
ble the top and bottom frames with
glue dries, sand the feet to 150 grit, then
glue the feet to the bottom frame,
centered on the width of the frame
trellis to support vines. We built ours pocket screws, then rout a 3⁄8" chamfer rails (G, H).
from cypress [Source, page 7], but cedar or along the bottom outside edge of the top
redwood, or fir with a coat of paint will frame (E/F) and the top outside edge of
also stand up to the elements.

C
A
A

Squaring brace
B
A

B
A

1/8" spacers
A B
sCrew the slat fraMes staCk anD fasten the fraMes
Clamp the front/back slats (A) between the Drive screws from inside the slat frames
side slats (B), drill two countersunk pilot holes (A/B) into the corner assemblies (C/D). The
at each joint, then assemble the frames. unchamfered frame goes on top of the box.

Page 2 of 8
11/2"
3/4"

I
I

C D
cut wide dadoes with a regular blade
Set the blade 3⁄4" above the table and the rip Reset the fence 11⁄2" from the outside of the
fence 3⁄4" from the blade. Make a pass across blade and make a second kerf in each front
one end of each front and back foot (I). and back foot.

3/4"

E F
Rabbet the side feet
Slide the workpiece away from the fence one Cut a rabbet in each side foot (J), leaving a
blade width at a time and nibble away the tongue that fits the dado in the front and back
waste between the kerfs. feet (I).

Page 3 of 8
2½"
F E 42¼"
1 Box assembly 19¼"

E
3⁄8" chamfer F

Pocket screw
37¾"
B
A
43⁄8"
A
B
3⁄8" chamfers
#8 x 1¼" S.S. 21¼" #8 x 1¼" S.S.
F.H. wood screw F.H. wood screw
1⁄8" gaps 2¾"
B
A C
C

A
B 177⁄8"

D D
C
2"
18¾"
2½" G 41¾"
H

I 3⁄8" chamfers
G
H
1a Foot detail J
(Right front and left
rear shown)
7¾" J 1¼" coarse-thread
5¼" pocket screw
I
1½"
8½"
J
4"
R= 4"
¾" dado
¾" deep I
¾" from end
¾" rabbet ¾" deep

1-BOX ASSEMBLY
Page 4 of 8 FIL
FILENAME:204Plnt/Trel1_#100672881.ai RL
Date: 11-10 Lj 1
Lorna J.
#8x1¼" S.S.
F.H. wood screw
3"

3⁄8" chamfer 42¼"


P
2 exploded view
2¼" rabbets
¾" deep

35" 2¼" dado


9½" ¾" deep
N

5" 2¼" 2"

¾" copper pipes


31¼" long 15⁄16" holes

19½" 15⁄16" holes


½" deep
K
3"
34"
4" M

2¼" ¾"
O
L L L L O
M 71¼"

#8 x 2" #8 x 1¼" S.S.


F.H. wood screw 1½"
S.S. F.H.
1" 3½" wood screw N
into part M F

E
5" 1½"
B
E A 2¼" 2¼" dado
35⁄8" ¾" deep

A 19¼"
15⁄16" holes F
1½"

42" 2¼"

¾"

45°
bevels
2aVIEW
2-EXPLODED trellis divider detail
FILENAME:204Plnt/Trel2_#100672883.ai FILENAME: 204 Planter/trelis2
Date: 11-10 RL 5-13, RL 7-8, KB 7-9 CR 10-
Lorna J. Lj 11-9

Page 5 of 8
8 Cut the drip-frame ends (K) and slats
(L) to size [Drawing 2] and screw the
drip frame together. Place the drip frame
Try the trellis
1 From laminated 3⁄4" stock cut the trel-
lis uprights (M) and rails (N) to size
3 Cut the trellis dividers (O) to size. Set
them side by side on your bench with
their ends flush and lay out the hole loca-
in the box. If you don’t want to build the [Drawing 2]. Lay out the dadoes on the tions [Photo H, Drawing 2a]. To prevent
trellis, apply an exterior finish to com- uprights and the rabbets on the rails. chip-out when the bit exits the hole, set
plete the box. vvQuick Tip! Choose a Using the same method used on the feet the divider on top of a piece of scrap,
finish with outdoor life. We (I, J), cut the joints. then drill the holes.
applied a clear finish to show the
project’s grain, but a heavily pigmented
stain will better endure sun and weather.
2 On the uprights (M), lay out locations
for the holes that hold the pipe [Draw-
ing 2], then drill them [Photo G].
4 Tilt your tablesaw blade to 45° and
install a zero-clearance insert. Clamp
a stopblock to the rip fence in front of the

Tape

15/16" hole
M 1/2" deep

G H
bore holes for the pipe lay out holes for the trellis
To mark the hole depth, wrap tape around a Draw lines across all five trellis dividers (O),
15⁄16" spade bit 1⁄2" above the cutters. Drill the then lay out the intersecting centerline along
holes on the marks. each piece to find the hole centerpoints.

Stopblock

O M

N
O

3/8" bevel

I J
bevel the divider ends Check the fit of the trellis
Set a stopblock to bevel half the divider’s Slide the dividers (O) onto the copper pipes, and
thickness. The stopblock also creates room check that the assembly fits inside the dry-fit
for the waste to fall away. trellis (M/N).

Page 6 of 8
N* trellis rails 11⁄2" 21⁄4" 35" C 2
O trellis dividers 3⁄4" 11⁄2" 42" C 5
P trellis top 3⁄4" 3" 421⁄4" C 1
*Parts laminated from 3⁄4"-thick stock.
Materials List Material key: C–cypress.
FINISHED SIZE
Part T W L Matl. Qty. Supplies: #8×11⁄4", #8×2" stainless steel F.H. wood screws
Planter box (or 11⁄4" and 2" deck screws); 11⁄4" coarse-thread pocket
A front/back slats 3⁄4" 43⁄8" 373⁄4" C 8
screws; 3⁄4" copper pipe (3 10' lengths).
Bits: 45° chamfer router bit; 15⁄16" spade bit.
B side slats 3⁄4" 43⁄8" 211⁄4" C 8
front/back corner 3
C
trim
⁄4" 23⁄4" 177⁄8" C 4 Source
D side corner trim 3⁄4" 2" 177⁄8" C 4
Cypress lumber: Wilson Lumber Co., 1279 N. McLean
Blvd., P.O. Box 820526, Memphis, TN 38182-0526, 901-274-
top-frame front/ 3
E
back rails
⁄4" 21⁄2" 421⁄4" C 2 6887, cypressusa.com. For a list of other cypress
top-frame side suppliers, go to the Southern Cypress Manufacturers
F 3⁄4" 21⁄2" 191⁄4" C 2 Assn., cypressinfo.org.
rails
bottom-frame
G 3⁄4" 21⁄2" 413⁄4" C 2
front/back rails
bottom-frame
H 3⁄4" 21⁄2" 183⁄4" C 2
MORE RESOURCES
side rails
I* front/back feet 11⁄2" 4" 81⁄2" C 4 FREE PLAN AND ARTICLE
■ Build a squaring brace using the plan at
J* side feet 11⁄2" 4" 73⁄4" C 4 woodmagazine.com/brace
K drip-frame ends 3⁄4" 3" 191⁄2" C 2 ■ Learn more about bald cypress at:
woodmagazine.com/cypress
L drip-frame slats 3⁄4" 3" 34" C 4 FREE VIDEO AND GALLERY
■ Watch how to mill lumber straight, flat, and
Trellis square at woodmagazine.com/stockprepvid
■ Visit our gallery of reader-submitted
M* trellis uprights 11⁄2" 21⁄4" 711⁄4" C 2 outdoor-project photos at  
woodmagazine.com/outdoorgallery
N* trellis rails 11⁄2" 21⁄4" 35" C 2
MORE OUTDOOR PLANS
O trellis dividers 3⁄4" 11⁄2" 42" C 5 ■  Find more great plans for your yard and
P trellis top 3⁄4" 3" 421⁄4" C 1 garden at woodmagazine.com/outdoor $
($=Download these plans for a small fee.)
*Parts laminated from 3⁄4"-thick stock.

Material key: C–cypress.


Supplies: #8×11⁄4", #8×2" stainless steel F.H. wood screws
Cutting Diagram
(or 11⁄4" and 2" deck screws); 11⁄4" coarse-thread pocket
screws; 3⁄4" copper pipe (3 10' lengths).
Bits: 45° chamfer router bit; 15⁄16" spade bit. D D
A B C C
Source ¾ x 5½ x 96" Cypress (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed)
Cypress lumber: Wilson Lumber Co., 1279 N. McLean
Blvd., P.O. Box 820526, Memphis, TN 38182-0526, 901-274- H
A B I I
6887, cypressusa.com. For a list of other cypress F
¾ x 5½Manufacturers
suppliers, go to the Southern Cypress x 96" Cypress (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed)
Assn., cypressinfo.org.
A B J J K
¾ x 5½ x 96" Cypress (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed)

A B I I J J
¾ x 5½ x 96" Cypress (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed)
O O
E G
¾ x 7¼ x 96" Cypress (5.3 bd. ft.)
L N
M
¾ x 5½ x 72" Cypress (3 bd. ft.) (4 needed)

O P
¾ x 5½ x 96" Cypress (4 bd. ft.)

Page 7 of 8
blade and, making test cuts on scrap the the rails. Center the uprights/rails assem- and width of the trellis. Fit the trellis in
same thickness as the trellis dividers (O), bly on the back of the box (A–L) and the notches in the top-frame rail (E) and
adjust the rip-fence position to cut 3⁄8" mark locations for notches to accept the screw the trellis to the rear of the box
bevels [Photo I]. Bevel the ends of the uprights. Cut the notches with a hand- [Drawing 2]. Place containers on the drip
dividers. saw or coping saw. frame (K/L) and fill them with plants.

5 With a hacksaw or pipe cutter, cut


eight 311⁄4"-long pieces of 3⁄4" copper
pipe. Remove lettering and stickers from
7 Cut the trellis top (P) to size and rout
a 3⁄8" chamfer around one face [Draw-
ing 2]. Disassemble the trellis and set the Written by Craig Ruegsegger with Kevin Boyle
the pipe using a cloth dampened with pipes aside. Sand the trellis parts to 150 Project design: Kevin Boyle
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
lacquer thinner. grit. Tape off the unglued half-lap joints

6
Graphic design: Lorna Johnson
Glue and clamp one end of each trel- on the trellis upright (M) and rails (N)
lis rail (N) to a trellis upright (M). and apply a finish to the uprights, rails, The purchase of these plans does not
Dry-fit the pipes and trellis dividers (O) dividers (O), and trellis top. transfer any copyright or other ownership
[Photo J] and clamp this assembly
between the trellis uprights to check the
fit. Remove the dividers and pipes and
8 After the finish dries, remove the
tape, reassemble the trellis, and glue
the final upright (M) in place. Screw the
interest in the plans, the design, or the
finished project to the buyer. Buyer may
neither reproduce the plans for sale nor offer
for sale any copies of the finished project.
once again dry-fit the loose upright to top (P) in place, centered on the depth

Planting possibilities
The planters shown here were filled by the manager of the Better
Homes and Gardens Test Garden® using plants readily available at
most independent garden centers or big-box stores.
1
1 Clematis “Sweet Autumn“
2 Duranta “Gold Edge“
3 Coleus “Kingswood Torch“
3
4 Thyme “Lemon“ 2
5 Calibrachoa “Trailing Plum“ 4 5

6 Canna ”Burning Ember” 7


7 Coleus ”Dark Star” 8
8 Pennisetum ”Princess Molly”
9 Sweet potato vine 9
”Black Heart”

Page 8 of 8
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