Setting up an Apiary.

When bees are looking for a new site their optimum preferences are:
 Entrance between 12.5 cm2 to 75 cm2; Height at 5m to 1m; south facing.
 At least 300m from their existing site and a chamber of about 40L [i.e.the size of a Brood Box].

In setting up an apiary we need to keep these preferences in mind. The pictures below show very different apiary
sites, showing there is no absolute ideal, but here are a few main features to consider:
 If you have several hives space them out sufficiently to minimise drifting is the usual advice. The 10
hives shown in the third picture all face due south so they will possible suffer from the end of line effect.
This should mean that the most downwind colony i.e. the RH end [as the prevailing wind is from the SW]
would have the most bees and gather more honey, the next two or three hives along the line would also
have more than the others with the opposite end of the line being the most depleted of bees and lowest
honey yield. Though, from experience I have found that this is not especially true, either because the
effect is exaggerated or possibly because honey production has more to do with the vigour of the queen
than to the effect of drifting.
 Avoid low lying land which could prove to be a frost pocket or subject to possible flooding.
 Face the entrances away from the prevailing wind to prevent chilling of the brood or winter cluster. Both
can be improved by situating the hives in the lee of a hedge or wall.
 If the entrances catch the rising sun, this will stimulate the bees to forage much earlier. If however you
intend to inspect the hive after work, west facing hives give you maximum light during inspections.
 If your hives have solid floors they should tilt towards the entrance to allow any moisture to drain out of
the hive. If you have open mesh floors this obviously does not apply.
Barrwood Apiary courtesy Richard Knight. The trees give good wind protection and dappled partial shade for most of the year.
  Bees have been around for over 100 million years foraging for nectar and producing honey, so even in a
wooded area, it may sound silly to worry about the availability of nectar, pollen and water. However if
there is no water source nearby you may need to provide this, as bees need it to dilute honey. They will
not wish to travel very far, especially in winter, when it may have set hard in the comb.
 Before placing any bees in your own garden, consider the reaction of your neighbours. Some people may
not mind living next to a few beehives providing there is enough distance or a high enough fence or
hedge to ensure there flight path lifts them well away. However, if you have feisty bees, you should warn
your neighbours before carrying out any inspections.
WBC hives in the Rapley’s Seal garden, all facing into the hedge or fencing gives good wind protection and lifts the bee’s flight path
safely to a high level. This garden is surrounded by trees, also providing very good protection from the winter’s cold winds.

 Having your apiary reasonably close to where you live is a distinct advantage. If you can find a spot in
your garden you will easily be able to look after your bees.
 If your garden is not suitable then try and find a local farm or allotment nearby, so that during long spells
of inclement weather you will find it easier to visit your bees between showers if they are close by. Also
easy access by car is a strong consideration when having to transport heavy supers of honey.
 If your garden is large enough you should be able to locate the hive so that neighbours will not be aware
of them. If the garden is small you will need to ensure the bees are good tempered by re-queening if
necessary. Avoid inspecting them on days when the weather is predicted to be stormy and try to inspect
them on warm sunny days when most of the bees are out foraging.
 Ideally an apiary should be sited an appropriate distance away from the nearest footpath, say 8+ m, with a
barrier fence, wall or hedge between the hives and the public access. If no height barrier exists between
the hive and the area of public access, the distance should be increased to 15+m as the bees can fly low,
particularly on windy days. A very high wall may be enough separation for most apiaries, even with a
path directly on the other side.
 Hives stood a metre off the ground are far less likely to suffer damp problems or being blocked by snow
drifting into the entrance. At this height, they are also far easier for the beekeeper to carry out inspections.
 Having hives located at the edge of some trees can provide useful shade when the sun is at its zenith, but
be aware; this position can prove hazardous from falling branches during strong winter winds.
 Remember badgers and sheep can easily knock hives over and if this is a likely risk, stock fencing should
be considered.
 Woodpeckers once they learn the taste for bees and lava, can wreak havoc with National hive’s single
skin woodwork. Chicken wire or black plastic wheelie bin sacks placed over the hives will minimise the
risk.
 Mice are not a problem 5m up a tree but with hives near the ground they will like the warmth of a hive in
winter and may take up residence. Restricting the height of the entrance to 6mm will prevent their entry.

Dynes Barn Apiary, Kemsing courtesy John Farrow.

The overhanging deciduous trees along the south side of this orchard give midday shade in summer.
The hive stands are pallets sawn in half with cross bracing and are long enough to support 2 hives.
The two Poly. Nucs. are used to make up any colony losses over the winter.
Black wheelie bin liners, like the one on the far right, are used in winter to prevent woodpecker damage.
You may also notice the rotating lemonade bottles? When it’s windy, these hopefully scare the woodpeckers?
Stock fencing was installed to keep the sheep from back-scratching against the hives & nudging them over!
Moving hives within the apiary or to a more distant location.
If you simply wish to turn the hive so that the entrance is away from the prevailing wind, it can be turned through 90
degrees without any problem. If you want to turn it through 180 degrees this should be done in two stages and both
manoeuvres are best done when the bees have stopped flying.

A short distance: Bees will always return to exactly the same spot and if you move the hive more than a metre they will
struggle to find their own hive. If there are no other bees close by, you can stretch this closer to two metres. If you need to
move your hive, for example across your garden, then move it in several small steps. Again it is best to do this after sunset,
when the bees have stopped flying. Use a wooden entrance block or a piece of foam. Secure the hive by using a ratchet tie
down strap around the floor, body and crown board. It will help if you face the hive in a different direction and place a
leafed branch in their way, they then realise as they leave the colony that things have changed.

A medium distance: Should you wish to move your bees less than 3km but further than you can comfortably move in
short steps as above then first you need to move the colony more than 3km for 5-6weeks then back to their new site.

A long distance: If you are moving more than 15 minutes away, then use a ventilated travelling board/screen in place of
the crown board. Should you have a mesh floor already fitted then this is unnecessary.
If you move your bees more than 3 kilometres then the bees will realise that their surroundings have completely changed
and reoriented to their new hive position without any problem.

Exceptions: In the middle of winter when temperatures are consistently below 10C, the bees only fly a short distance for
cleansing flights. The hive may be then moved any distance without concern.
In mild winters, move in a similar way to moving a short distance. Close them up & move them on the coldest day you
can, placing the hive in a different direction and put a branch with very green foliage in front & close to the entrance such
as it impedes direct flight. This will make them more aware of their new position when they next leave.

John Farrow October 2013