Overview of Natural Preservatives

OVERVIEW OF
NATURAL
PRESERVATIVES
MANUFACTURER INFORMATION
& Articles
1. Dermosoft 1388 by Dr. Straetmans
2. Geogard ECT by Lonza
3. Geogard Ultra by Lonza
4. Iscaguard PFA by ISCA
5. Lexgard Natural by Inolex
6. Sorbic Acid and Potassium Sorbate as Cosmetic Preservatives

by Eastman
7. Spectrastat by Inolex
8. Article in Journal of Applied Microbiology: Weak-Acid

Preservatives
Compiled by
Rebecca Wright & Lise M Andersen
for members of
Natural Cosmetic Formulating & Formulators Kitchen
Hello!
The most frequent question we get from members of

Natural Cosmetic Formulating Group
and
Formulators Kitchen
is
“Which is the best natural preservative?”
We wish there was a short and simple way to answer this, but there isn’t.
Choosing the right preservative is always formula specific.
This compliation of articles

and manufacturer information on some preservatives
that are accepted as ‘natural’
is our best way of answering this question.
For specifics on preservatives (dosage, use, pH etc),

we recommend starting with the manufacturer’s information.
We hope this will be useful as a guideline and aid

in helping you make an informed decision
on which preservative you use.
Enjoy!
Rebecca Wright Lise M Andersen

Dermosoft 1388 by Dr. Straetmans
Multifunctional Additives
Dermosoft® 1388
Product Information
Dermosoft® 1388
Product features:
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Multifunctional fragrance composition
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Moisturizing effect
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Skin friendly
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Anti-inflammatory properties
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Broad antimicrobial activity
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For various cosmetic formulations
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Dermosoft® 1388
The product line

Dermosoft® products Dermosoft® products are carefully chosen multifunctional cosmetic
cover many cosmetic ingredients. The well balanced product profiles are tailored to the needs
functions of cosmetic formulations. Basic cosmetic functions like hydrating,
conditioning, masking and others are combined with an excellent
antimicrobial profile. Dermosoft products will meet many of your
requirements for the improvement of cosmetic formulations and along
the way protect the product against microorganisms. With the aid of
Dermosoft® cosmetic products can easily be formulated without
traditional preservatives.
Dermosoft® 1388
Dermosoft® 1388 The product’s active principle is a blend of compounds found in many
features natural plants in nature. In combination with plant derived glycerol contained in
antimicrobial activity this skin friendly mixture a moisturizing effect can be created. The
delicate scent of Dermosoft® 1388 will help to mask undesired odours of
raw materials but will usually not interfere with other fragrance. The
gently acidic ingredients will improve the natural acidic environment of
the skin. And finally, the outstanding antimicrobial activity of Dermosoft®
1388 can convert most cosmetic formulations in self preserving
products – with no further need for traditional preservatives. Interestingly
also bees use one of the contained natural acids for the difficult task of
protecting their nest provisions (pollen and nectar) against
microbiological spoilage1.
Efficacy and easy
application are the
cornerstones of
Application
Dermosoft® 1388
In order to further improve the versatility of these products we also
focussed on the convenience of our Dermosoft® range. Dermosoft®
1388 is liquid and clearly water soluble and can be employed easily in
surfactant based rinse off concepts, emulsions (O/W an W/O) as well as
in hydroalcoholic products. To avoid recrystallization and maximum
efficacy please regard the recommended use level and the pH
requirements.
As a result of our product development Dermosoft® 1388 provides:

● easy application
● compatibility with cold processes
● broad spectrum microbiological activity
Characteristics of Dermosoft® 1388
Appearance Clear, colourless to pale yellow

liquid
INCI Parfum
Recommended dosage 3,0 – 4,0 %
Antimicrobial performance Gram+ Gram- Yeast Mould

very good fair
/ moderate  not sufficient
pH-range 4,5 - 5,5
Regulatory status Registered in EU, US, Japan
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Dermosoft® 1388
Cosmetic functions
Hydrating
Different cosmetic The hydrating effect of glycerine has been proved in many clinical
functions are obtained studies2 and has long been used in cosmetic formulations. It’s efficacy
with Dermosoft® 1388 has been shown to supersede the hydrating capacity of urea or
propylene glycol3. The amount of glycerol contained in Dermosoft® 1388
will contribute to the hydrating properties of the cosmetic product at
recommended use concentrations.
Masking
The perfume ingredients in Dermosoft® 1388 are known as masking
agents. The unspecific scent does not make them first choice for use as
a stand alone perfume. But the aroma is appreciated by many
formulators to mask undesired odours of raw materials. The light smell
will usually not add to or interfere with the perfume in the product.
Acidifying
Dermosoft® 1388 contains two organic acids that are found in nature in
many plants. As an intrinsic property of such organic acids the acidity is
very low. This makes them ideal candidates for a gentle acidifying effect
on human skin. Thus the natural acidic level of the skin can be maintained
for a longer time. The correlation between physiological pH and healthy
skin has been shown in many studies and there has been evidence that
micro organisms like Propionibacterium acne and Staphylococcus
aureus and even viruses are significantly reduced, by organic acids and
when the normal pH on human skin is maintained stable4,5.
Anti-inflammatory
Dermosoft® 1388 contains a compound with known anti-inflammatory
effect that can act soothing on irritated skin. The anti-inflammatory effect
of this compound has been shown to be comparable to other agents like
phospholipid analogues, sterols, or vitamin E analogues6.
Antimicrobial efficacy
Although Dermosoft® 1388 may be employed for many of its additional
valuable cosmetic functions, the excellent antimicrobial activity will very
well improve the microbiological stability. In most cases it will allow to
eliminate unnecessary preservatives from the product. As can be seen in
the following figures all relevant germs are destroyed quickly and
effectively. The blend contains one compound with bactericidal
properties while the co-active shows excellent fungicidal action. Together
the two actives display a very good and broad anti microbial
performance. For an optimum efficacy the pH of the formulation should
not be higher than 5,5.
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Dermosoft® 1388
All the microbiological tests are done in an independent external and

certified laboratory according to the Pharmacopoeia Europea. The
following examples show test results of challenge tests with state of the
art products that contain Dermosoft®.
10000000
1000000
100000
10000
log cfu
1000
100
10
1
0 Asp. Niger
Cand. Albic.
7
E.Coli
14 Pseud. Aerugin.
days
21 Staph. Aureus
28
Figure 1: Challenge Test with Shampoo Baby Care stabilized with 3,5 %
Many cosmetic Dermosoft® 1388
formulations can be
stabilised with
Dermosoft® 1388
10000000
1000000
100000
10000
log cfu
1000
100
10
1
0 Asp. Niger
Cand. Albic.
7
E.Coli
14 Pseud. Aerugin.
days
21 Staph. Aureus
28
Figure 2: Challenge Test with Skin Serum stabilized with 2,25 %

Dermosoft® 1388
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Dermosoft® 1388
10000000
1000000
100000
10000
log cfu
1000
100
10
1
0 Asp. Niger
Cand. Albic.
7
E.Coli
14 Pseud. Aerugin.
days
21 Staph. Aureus
28
Figure 3: Challenge Test with Organic Body Lotion stabilized with 3,0 %
Dermosoft® 1388
10000000
1000000
100000
10000
log cfu
1000
100
10
1
0 Asp. Niger
Cand. Albic.
7
E.Coli
14 Pseud. Aerugin.
days
21 Staph. Aureus
28
Figure 4: Challenge Test with rinse off Hair Conditioner stabilized with 3,0
% Dermosoft® 1388
The combination of mild masking agents in a skin friendly and

moisturizing solution form our Dermosoft® 1388. This furnishes your
formulation with a reliable biological stabilization. Just add Dermosoft®
1388 to your formulation and adjust the pH to the recommended level.
Using Dermosoft® has never been easier!
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Dermosoft® 1388
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Dermosoft® 1388
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Dermosoft® 1388
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Dermosoft® 1388
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Dermosoft® 1388
Dozens of formulation More formulations with our products are available for both, traditional and
examples are natural cosmetics concepts. Please contact us to receive your copy of
compiled in our our general Formulary and our Formulary NATURE Edition, respectively.
Formulary
Toxicology
Dermosoft® 1388 is not irritating, not sensitizing and does not contain
genetically modified material, dioxine, phthalates, BSE-related material or
CMR-material. Without the 26 sensitizers, it is in full compliance with the
IFRA codes and the 7th amendment.
Packing units
Dermosoft® 1388 is available in 10 kg and 25 kg canisters and in 200 kg
drums.
Environmental Information
Dermosoft® 1388 is made from environmentally and toxicologically
unobjectionable raw materials. Dermosoft® 1388 is fully biodegradable
and has not been tested on animals.
Handling and storage

In closed original containers Dermosoft® 1388 can be stored for at least 3
years. Dermosoft® 1388 does not need to be preserved.
1Vinson SB, et al., Nest liquid resources of several cavity nesting bees in the
genus Centris and the identification of a preservative, levulinic acid,. J Chem Ecol. 2006; 32(9):
2013-21.
2Bettinger J, et al., Opposing Effects of Glycerol on the Protective Function of the Horny Layer
against Irritants and on the Penetration of Hexyl Nicotinate. Dermatology 1998;197:18-24.
3 Bettinger J, et al., Comparison of different non-invasive test methods with respect to the
effect of different moisturizers on skin, Skin Research and Technology, 1999, 5 (1), 21–27.
4Turner RB, et al., Efficacy of Organic Acids in Hand Cleansers for Prevention of
Rhinovirus Infections, Antimicrobial Agents And Chemotherapy, 2004, p. 2595–2598 Vol. 48,
No. 7
5 Schmidt-Wendtner MH, Korting HC, The pH of the Skin Surface and Its Impact on the Barrier
Function, Skin Pharmacol Physiol , 2006;19:296–302
6 Singh N, et al., Crystal Structures of the Complexes of a Group IIA Phospholipase A with
2
Two Natural Anti-inflammatory agents, Anisic Acid, and Atropine Reveal a Similar Mode of
Binding, Proteins, 2006; 64: 89–100
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Distributors Multifunctional Additives
Dermosoft® 1388
Our representatives abroad

Benelux Greece Sweden/Finland
Jan van Laarhoven-Waalwijk b.v. Cellco Chemicals Ltd. Bionord AB
Burg. Verwielstraat 45 22 Bizaniou Str. Granstigen 2
NL-5141 BD Waalwijk 135 62 Ag. Anargyri S-44441 Stenungssund
Contact: Mr. Berry van Laarhoven GR-Athens Contact: Mrs. Lena Hällstig
Phone: +31 416-33 31 78 Contact: Mrs. Maria Vlachou Phone: +46-30831860
Fax: +31 416-34 29 84 Phone: +30 210-262 17 23 Fax: +46-30831866
E-Mail: [email protected] Fax: +30 210-262 05 87 E-Mail: [email protected]
E-Mail: [email protected]
Danmark/Iceland/Norway Switzerland
Bionord A/S Italy Rahn AG
Sølundsvej 2 Pharma Cosm Polli srl Dörflistr. 120
DK-2100 Copenhagen Via La Spezia, 35 CH-8050 Zürich
Contact: Mr. Søren Sneholt I-20142 Milano Contact: Mrs. Gabriela Schuler
Phone: +45 3918 3588 Contact: Mr. Paolo Polli Phone: +41 1-315 42 10
Fax: +45 3929 2778 Phone: +39 02-89 54 61 88 Fax: +41 1-312 21 60
E-Mail: [email protected] Fax: +39 02-89 54 61 87 E-Mail: [email protected]
Web: www.bionord.dk E-Mail: [email protected] Web: www.rahn.ch
Web: www.pharmacosm.it
France Korea
Lucas Meyer Cosmetics S.A. Poland HANA Trading Company
99, Route de Versailles Morena Sp.z.o.o. #509 Samho Park Tower
F-91160 Champlan Ul. Andersa 23 m 1° 1122-10, Inkye-Dong, Paldal-Ku
Contact: Mr. Eric Calmon PL-81 831 SOPOT KR-Suwon-Si, Kyunggi-Do, 442-070
Directeur Commercial Contact: Mrs. Alicia Thomas Contact: Mr. Jun Hong Chi
Phone: +33 1-69 10 69 69 Phone: +48 585-51 09 65 Phone: +82 31-216 57 00 (-216 57 10)
Fax: + 33 1-69 10 69 70 Fax: +48 585-51 09 65 Fax: +82 31-216 57 33
E-Mail: [email protected] E-Mail: [email protected] E-Mail: [email protected]
Web: www.lmcosmetics.fr Web: www.morena.net.pl
Latin America
Great Britain Spain nordest nova s.a.
Gemro Products Ltd. Comercial Quimica Jover, S.L. Caldas 1637 (C1427AHG)
Elstree Business Centre, Elstree Way Pol. Ind. Zona Nord Ciudad de Buenos Aires
GB-Borehamwood, Herts., WD6 1RX C./Vallespir, 22 Contact: Mr. Sergio Engrassi
Contact: Mr. Steve Blech ES-08226 Terrassa Phone: +54 11 4554-9600
Phone: +44 20 8624-6222 Contact: Mr. Eduardo Jover Vancells Fax: +54 11 4551-7826
Fax: +44 20 8624-6333 Phone: +34 93-735 04 73 E-Mail: sergio.engrassi@
E-Mail: stephen.blech@ Fax: +34 93-734 91 41 nordest-nova.com
gemroproducts.com E-Mail: [email protected]
Web: www.cqjover.com USA
Kinetik Technologies, Inc.
8 Crown Plaza, Suite 110
Hazlet, NJ 07730
Contact: Mr. Chris Johnson
Phone: +1 732-335 57 75
Fax: +1 732-335 02 10
E-Mail: [email protected]
Web: www.kinetiktech.com
DS 1388/ 2008-1
Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH · Merkurring 60–62 · D-22143 Hamburg

Phone: +49 40-66 93 56 0 · Fax: +49 40-66 93 56 10 · email: [email protected]
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Geogard ECT by Lonza
Personal Care
Consumer Care
Geogard® ECT (patented)
Broad Spectrum Preservation System
INCI Name: Benzyl Alcohol & Salicylic Acid & Glycerin & Sorbic Acid
SAP Code#: 139650
Key Product Attributes: Recommended Use Level

–– A preservation system that meets the ECOCERT standards 0.6 – 1.0%
–– COSMOS accepted
–– Broad spectrum activity on bacteria, yeast and molds
–– Has a wide range of global regulatory acceptance* † Description
–– Low odor profile; Ideal for fragrance-free and fragrance-sensitive systems
–– Compatible in a wide range of skin care, hair care and sun care systems Geogard® ECT is a unique, patented combination of 4 components:
–– Wide pH compatibility: pH 3 – 8 Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Sorbic Acid, and Glycerin, which are
–– Excellent safety profile well-accepted in a wide range of personal care products. The novel
composition of this antimicrobial blend offers broad spectrum
* In Europe, there are restrictions in using Salicylic Acid in products for children under the age of 3. protection in a diverse range of products against Gram-positive &
† In Japan, Benzyl Alcohol is not an approved cosmetic preservative, however it can be used as Gram-negative bacteria, yeast and molds.
a cosmetic ingredient.
Compositional Breakdown Make-Up Remover
Chemical Compound Breakdown CAS No. EINECS pH: 5.15
Benzyl Alcohol 100-51-6 202-859-9 % water: 90%; AW: 0.980
Salicylic Acid 69-72-7 200-712-3
Glycerin 56-81-5 200-289-5 Ingredient %
Sorbic Acid 110-44-1 203-768-7 Deionized Water q.s. to 100%
Propylene Glycol 2.00%
Chemical Compositional Breakdown % Glycerin 2.00%
Benzyl Alcohol 77-86% PEG-8 2.00%
Salicylic Acid 8-15% Decyl Glucoside 4.00%
Glycerin 3-5% Total 100.00%
Sorbic Acid 1-4%
Test Results
Applications
Colony Forming Units per Gram (CFU/g)
–– Anhydrous –– Hand soap (non anti-bac) Test Unpreserved Control Test-Geogard® ECT (1%)
Organism
–– Body Butter –– Liptick/gloss
Initial Challenge Rechallenge Initial Challenge Rechallenge
–– Body wash –– Lotion
24 7 28 28 24 7 28 28
–– Conditioner –– Make up remover hrs days days days hrs days days days
–– Cream –– Mascara S. aureus 9.0x10 <10 <10 <10 2.0x10 <10 <10 <10
–– Deo/ Anti-Perspirant –– Oil in Water K. pneumoniae 5.3x103 <10 <10 <10 4.0x10 <10 <10 <10
–– Eye creams/gels –– Oral care + E. gergoviae
P. aeruginosa 3.3x105 1.8x106 1.4x106 7.7x106 1.0x10 <10 <10 <10
–– Eye shadow –– Powder + B. cepacia
–– Face Lotion –– Shampoo C. albicans 1.8x104 1.9x104 1.2x104 1.5x104 <10 <10 <10 <10
–– Face wipes –– Suncare Mixed molds 1.5x10 4
2.4x10 4
1.1x10 4
7.0x104 <10 <10 <10 <10
–– Facial Cream –– Toner
–– Foundation –– Vaginal (exterior)
–– Hair gel –– Water in Oil
Hair Conditioner
Efficacy pH: 3.9
% water: 73.7%; AW: 0.976
Microbiological Challenge Studies
Studies were run on five formulas using a 1.0% concentration of Ingredient %
Geogard® ECT. The protocol used was a CTFA challenge test. All samples
were inoculated at the beginning of the study, sampled at 24 hours, 7, Phase A
Deionized Water q.s. to 100%
14, 21 and 28 days. The samples were diluted in neutralizer and plated
Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.30%
quantitatively for viable organisms at all sampling times. After 28 days,
all samples were re-inoculated and subjected to a second challenge.
Phase B
Cetrimonium Bromide & Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00%
Stearyl Alcohol 1.00%
Steareth-21 2.50%
Polysorbate 80 0.50%
Lecithin 1.00%
Water 20.00%
Total 100.00%
Personal Care – Geogard® ECT 2

Test Results Water in Oil Emulsion Cream
Colony Forming Units per Gram (CFU/g) (Lot#: AR12-068)
Test Unpreserved Control Test-Geogard® ECT (1%) pH: n/a
Organism
% water: 75%; AW: 0.963
24 7 28 28 24 7 28 28 Ingredient %
hrs days days days hrs days days days
S. aureus 3.5x105 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10
K. pneumoniae 9.4x105 3.4x105 2.6x108 3.5x106 <10 <10 <10 <10
Phase A
+ E. gergoviae Deionized Water q.s. to 100%
P. aeruginosa 4.9x105 >106 3.0x108 <10 2.0x102 <10 <10 <10 Glycerin 3.00%
+ B. cepacia Sodium Chloride 1.00%
C. albicans 3.3x105 3.3x106 2.7x106 2.8x107 6.0x10 <10 <10 <10
Mixed molds 2.1x104 3.5x103 1.2x103 1.4x104 <10 <10 <10 <10 Phase B
Cyclomethicone & Dimethicone 10.00%
Cyclopentasiloxane 8.50%
Make-Up Remover Cyclomethicone & Dimethicone &

Petrolatum 2.50%
Total 100.00%
pH: 8.1
% water: 44%; AW: 0.965
Ingredient % Test Results

Deionized Water q.s. to 100%
Propylene Glycol 2.00% Colony Forming Units per Gram (CFU/g)
Glycerin 2.00%
PEG-8 2.00% Test Unpreserved Control Test-Geogard® ECT (1%)
Decyl Glucoside 50.00% Organism
Total 100.00% Initial Challenge Rechallenge Initial Challenge Rechallenge

24 7 28 28 24 7 28 28
S. aureus 8.6x104 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10
Test Results K. pneumoniae 5.6x104 <10
+ E. gergoviae
<10 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10
Colony Forming Units per Gram (CFU/g) P. aeruginosa 3.1x104 2.9x103 <10 3.4x105 <10 <10 <10 <10
+ B. cepacia
C. albicans 4.6x104 1.3x104 2.9x103 5.3x104 <10 <10 <10 <10
Test Unpreserved Control Test-Geogard® ECT (1%)
Organism Mixed molds 1.2x10 4
9.7x10 3
7.0x10 3
3.4x10 5
<10 <10 <10 <10
24 7 28 28 24 7 28 28
Lotion (Lot# KKL-1446)

S. aureus 1.0x102 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10
K. pneumoniae 5.1x10 6
8.0x10 6
2.5x10 6
8.0x10 5
<10 <10 <10 <10
+ E. gergoviae pH: 7.85
P. aeruginosa 4.5x106 6.6x106 1.5x106 3.2x106 <10 <10 <10 <10 % water: 89%; AW: 0.976
+ B. cepacia
C. albicans 4.0x102 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10 <10
Ingredient %
Mixed molds 1.1x104 2.5x104 2.0x104 1.0x105 <10 <10 <10 <10
Deionized Water q.s. to 100
Glycerin 2.00%
Cyclomethicone & Dimethicone & 2.00%
Phenyl Trimethicone
Cyclopentasiloxane 5.00%
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl 2.00%
Taurate Copolymer & Hydrogenated
Polydecane & Sorbitan Laurate &
Trideceth-6
Total 100.00%
Personal Care – Geogard® ECT 3

www.lonza.com
www.lonza.com/personalcare
Test Results Global Regulatory

Colony Forming Units per Gram (CFU/g) Europe
–– All ingredients approved (Annex V to Regulation EC/1223/2009
Test Unpreserved Control Test-Geogard® ECT (1%) formerly Annex VI to Council Directive 76/768/EEC)
Organism
–– Max concentration of 1% Benzyl Alcohol, 0.5% Salicylic
Acid and 0.6% Sorbic Acid
24 7 28 28 24 7 28 28
S. aureus 1.3x106 1.6x104 3.0x104 8.0x103 7.0x10 <10 <10 <10 Japan
K. pneumoniae 1.3x10 6
9.5x10 5
7.0x10 5
2.3x10 3
2.0x10 <10 <10 <10 –– All ingredients approved (JNCI)
+ E. gergoviae –– Max concentration of 1% Benzyl Alcohol, 0.2% Salicylic
P. aeruginosa >106 8.5x106 4.3x107 9.8x107 <10 <10 <10 <10 Acid and 0.6% Sorbic Acid
+ B. cepacia
C. albicans 1.1x105 1.0x105 9.0x105 1.5x105 8.7x103 <10 <10 <10
–– Benzyl Alcohol is not approved as a preservative but can
Mixed molds 2.3x10 6
9.0x10 4
1.6x10 4
7.0x10 4
1.8x103 <10 <10 <10
be used as a general cosmetic ingredient
United States
–– All ingredients allowed (CIR/PCPC)
Formulation Recommendations –– Max concentration of 1% Benzyl Alcohol, 0.5% Salicylic
Acid and 0.6% Sorbic Acid
–– Versatile, clear liquid
–– Can be easily added directly to most any system General
–– Compatible with most ingredients used in personal care –– Cannot be used in products for children under 3 except
–– For emulsified systems for shampoo
–– Can be easily integrated post-emulsification at temperatures
below 45°C Typical Properties
–– Limited pH restrictions Appearance Clear, colorless to straw
Color (Gardner) 2 Max.
Odor Characteristic
USA Switzerland This product information corresponds to our knowledge on the subject at the date of publication and
we assume no obligation to update it. It is offered without warranty, and is intended for use by persons
Lonza Consumer Care Lonza Ltd
who are experienced and knowledgeable in the field and capable of determining the suitability of in-
70 Tyler Place Muenchensteinerstrasse 38 gredients for their specific applications. Because we cannot anticipate all variations in actual end-use
South Plainfield, NJ 07080 4002 Basel conditions, we assume no liability and make no warranty in connection with your use of our products
or product information. We do not guarantee the efficacy of active ingredients, delivery systems,
Tel +1 908 561 5200 Tel +41 61 316 81 11 functional ingredients, rheology modifiers, natural or botanical products, preservative and protection
systems or proteins in any specific application or use. The information we provide is not intended to
substitute for testing. You should perform your own tests to determine for yourself the suitability and
efficacy of ingredients in your application and conditions of use. The information we provide should
not be construed as a license to operate under or a recommendation to infringe any patent or other
intellectual property right, and you should ensure that your use does not infringe any such rights. Our
products are for industrial use only. WE MAKE NO WARRANTY (INCLUDING AS TO MERCHANTABILITY OR
FITNESS FOR PURPOSE) OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, OTHER THAN THAT OUR PRODUCTS CONFORM
TO THE APPLICABLE PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS.
© 2015 Lonza Ltd
Personal Care – Geogard® ECT – 11/15

Geogard Ultra by Lonza
Personal Care
Europe
Geogard Ultra™
Next-Generation Preservation
Key Product Benefits:

–– Has a wide range of global regulatory acceptance
–– Broad spectrum activity
–– ECOCERT/COSMOS-accepted , NATRUE-approved and Soil Associa-
tion-approved
–– Wide applicability
–– Added moisturization benefit
INCI Name: Gluconolactone & Sodium Ben-

zoate & Calcium Gluconate
Recommended Use Level Efficacy
0.75–2.0% Microbiological Challenge Studies
Studies were run using different concentrations of Geogard Ultra™ in
Description various formulations to see efficacy against various bacteria and fungi.
All samples were inoculated at the beginning of the study, sampled at
Geogard Ultra™ is a synergistic blend comprised of gluconolactone and 7, 14 and 28 days.
sodium benzoate. What makes this preservative unique is the synergy
between the two ingredients, allowing for its broad spectrum efficacy. In these challenge studies, the bacterial pool consisted of S.aureus,
Typically, organic acids on their own are too weak and often require P.aeruginosa and E.coli, and the fungal pool of C.albicans and
a co-preservative or booster in order to perform optimally. The gluco- A.brasiliensis.
nolactone in this blend works together with the sodium benzoate to
act as an efficient preservative booster that is also non-GMO. Geogard Moisturizing Cream
Ultra™’s gluconolactone works by slowly releasing gluconic acid over (pH = 5.28)
time, which helps contribute to the preservation.
Ingredient %W/W
Chemical Compound Breakdown CAS No. EINECS No. Water, deionized q.s
D-glucono-1,5-lactone 90-80-2 202-016-5 Caprylic Triglyceride 20.00%
Sodium benzoate 532-32-1 208-534-8 Sorbitan Monostearate 2.00%
Calcium gluconate 299-28-5 206-075-8 PEG Stearate 1.50%
Glyceryl Stearate 2.00%
Chemical Compound Breakdown Percentage Decaglyceryl Decaoleate 5.00%
D-glucono-1,5-lactone 70–80% UV absorber optional
Sodium benzoate 22–28% Thickener optional
Calcium gluconate 1% Preservative 1.5% Geogard Ultra™
Total: 100.00%
Applications
Bacterial Counts (CFU/gram)
–– Baby care –– Hair gel
–– Baby wipes –– Hand soap Sample# TestSamples Day0 Day7 Day14 Day28
–– Body butter –– Lipstick/gloss Unpreserved
–– Body wash –– Lotion 1 Moisturizer 9.5x106 4.2x105 8.9x104 <10
–– Conditioner –– Make up remover Moisturizer with
1.5% Geogard
–– Cream –– Oil in Water 2 Ultra™ 6.5x106 <10 <10 <10
–– Deo/anti-perspirant –– Oral care
–– Eye creams/gels –– Powder
–– Eye shadow –– Shampoo Fungal Counts (CFU/gram)
–– Face lotion –– Suncare
–– Face wipes –– Toner Sample# Test Samples Day 0 Day 7 Day 14 Day 28
–– Facial cream –– Water in Oil Unpreserved
–– Foundation 3 Moisturizer 8.8x105 1.7x105 1.9x105 2.8x105
Moisturizer with
1.5% Geogard
Geogard Ultra™ can be used at 1.0 to 2.0 % as a stand-alone preserva- 4 Ultra™ 2.1x105 <10 <10 <10
tive system, but can also be used successfully at lower levels (0.25%
to 1.0%) when combined with other synthetic or natural preservatives,
preferably good bactericides. Lonza can recommend combinations
upon request.
2 Personal Care – Geogard Ultra™ – 3/17

Anionic Protein Shampoo Hair Conditioner
(pH = 5.42) (pH = 4.89)
Ingredient %W/W Ingredient % W/W

Water, deionized q.s Water, deionized q.s
Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate 15.0% Polysorbate 80 (Glycosperse® O-20) 0.5%
Triethanolamine Lauryl Sulfate 10.0% Lecithin 1.0%
Cocamide DEA 3.0% Distearyldimonium Chloride
Anhydrous Protein 1.0% (Varisoft TA100) 2.0%
50% Aqueous Citric acid pH adjuster Cetyl alcohol 2.1%
Preservative 1.5% Geogard Ultra™ Cetearyl alcohol 1.5%
Total 100.00% POE 4 Lauryl Alcohol (Ethosperse® LA-4) 3.1%

10% Aqueous Sodium Hydroxide pH adjuster
Preservative 1.0% Geogard Ultra™
Bacterial Counts (CFU/gram)
Total: 100.00%
Sample# Test Samples Day 0 Day 7 Day 14 Day 28

Unpreserved Bacterial Counts (CFU/gram)
1 Shampoo 9.5x106 4.76x107 1.06x108 2.0x107
Shampoo with Sample# Test Samples Day 0 Day 7 Day 14 Day 28
1.5% Geogard
2 Ultra™ 5.2x105 <10 <10 <10 Unpreserved
1 Conditioner 8.3 x 106 4.8 x 107 2.4 x 106 9.0 x 106
Fungal Counts (CFU/gram) Conditioner
w/ 1.0%
Geogard
Sample# Test Samples Day 0 Day 7 Day 14 Day 28 2 Ultra™ 3.5 x 105 < 10 < 10 < 10
Unpreserved
3 Shampoo 6.6x105 2.0x105 3.0x105 1.7x107 Fungal Counts (CFU/gram)
Shampoo with
1.5% Geogard
4 Ultra™ 4.4x105 <10 <10 <10 Sample# Test Samples Day 0 Day 7 Day 14 Day 28
Unpreserved
3 Conditioner 4.2 x 106 1.8 x 107 8.3 x 105 3.7 x 105
Conditioner w/
1.0% Geogard
4 Ultra™ 4.1 x 104 2.0 x 102 <10 <10
Personal Care – Geogard Ultra™ – 3/17 3

Wet Wipe Liquor Average Moisturizing Effect on 9 Subjects Over Five Days
(pH = 5.54) 4.5
% Increase in Moisture over Five Days

4.0
Ingredient %W/W
Water q.s to 100 3.5
Decyl glucoside (Plantaren® 2000) 0.25%
3.0
Polysorbate 20 (Glycosperse® L-20) 0.30%
Disodium EDTA 0.20% 2.5
Sodium citrate 3.00%
2.0
Geogard Ultra™ 2.00%
Total 100.00% 1.5
(pH adjustments for in-situ buffer)
1.0
Bacterial Counts (CFU/gram) 0.5
0.0
Sample# Test Samples Day 0 Day 7 Day 14 Day 21 Day 28 1% Geogard Ultra™ 2% Glycerin Control w/o Glycerin
SPC nonwoven >3.9 x
1 (unpreserved) 1.6 x 106 3.1 x 105 >3.9 x 106 >3.9 x 106 106 Fig. 1
SPC nonwoven
with 2%
2 Geogard Ultra™ 2.1 x 106 <100 <100 <100 <100
Spunlace
nonwoven >3.9 x
Global Regulatory
3 (unpreserved) 2.6 x 106 3.0 x 106 >3.9 x 106 >3.9 x 106 106
Spunlace
Europe
nonwoven –– Max concentration of sodium benzoate is based on benzoic acid
with 2% content
4 Geogard Ultra™ 1.9 x 106 <100 <100 <100 <100
–– Max concentration of benzoic acid is 2.5% for rinse-off
–– Max concentration of benzoic acid is 0.5% for leave-on
Fungal Counts (CFU/gram)
Japan
Sample# Test Samples Day 0 Day 7 Day 14 Day 21 Day 28 –– 1.0% total max level of sodium benzoate
SPC nonwoven
5 (unpreserved) 7.7 x 104 2.4 x 106 6.4 x 106 4.1 x 105 1.2 x 106 US
SPC nonwoven –– 5.0% total max level of sodium benzoate
with 2%
6 Geogard Ultra™ 7.8 x 10 4
1.0 x 10 2
<100 <100 <100
Spunlace General
nonwoven –– Compliance with ECOCERT/COSMOS and Soil Association
7 (unpreserved) 1.2 x 105 5.5 x 105 8.8 x 105 1.1 x 106 1.2 x 106
Spunlace
nonwoven
with 2%
8 Geogard Ultra™ 9.5 x 104 <100 <100 <100 <100
There is also a moisturization benefit on the skin with the Geogard

Ultra™. In the same moisturizing cream formulation used to demonstrate
preservative efficacy, Geogard Ultra™ produced a quantitative
moisturization benefit to the skin. Over a period of time, Geogard Ultra™
produced a moisturizing effect that was superior to the use of 2 %
glycerin.
4 Personal Care – Geogard Ultra™ – 3/17

Formulation Recommendations
–– Water soluble
–– Compatible with a wide variety of formulation ingredients as well
as most types of cationic, nonionic and anionic systems
–– Can be used effectively over a pH range of 3 to 6 and can be added
at both room and elevated temperatures
–– Soluble up to 4% in ambient water; it can be easily dispersed in
glycols and alkyl sulfates
–– To maximise the pH stability of the final formulation, it may be
necessary to employ use of a sodium citrate buffer and pH
adjustment as described below...
1. Dose the final product with the required level of Geogard Ultra™
along with a 1.5x amount of sodium citrate. So, a 2% dose of
Geogard Ultra™ should be accompanied by 3% sodium citrate
2. Mix thoroughly to ensure all solids have dissolved and adjust
the pH of the formulation to 7.00 - 7.25 with 30% sodium hydroxide
3. Finally, adjust the pH to desired final product pH (pH 5.4 – 5.5
is ideal) with dilute sodium hydroxide or citric acid solution
Solubility Data
Solvent Soluble/Insoluble
Water Soluble
Propylene Glycol Dispersible
Glycerin Soluble
Ethanol Insoluble USA
Mineral Oil Dispersible Lonza Consumer Care
Vegetable Oil Insoluble 70 Tyler Place
Silicone (Dimethicone) Insoluble South Plainfield, NJ 07080
Alkyl Sulfates Dispersible Tel +1 908 561 5200
Typical Properties Switzerland

Gluconolactone,% 70% Minimum Lonza Ltd
Sodium Benzoate,% 22% Minimum Muenchensteinerstrasse 38
Appearance Free flowing, white powder 4002 Basel
Activity 99% Tel +41 61 316 81 11
[email protected]
Review and follow all product safety instructions. All product information corresponds to Lonza’s
knowledge on the subject at the date of publication, but Lonza makes no warranty as to its accuracy
or completeness and Lonza assumes no obligation to update it. Product information is intended for
use by recipients experienced and knowledgeable in the field, who are capable of and responsible for
independently determining the suitability of ingredients for intended uses and to ensure their com-
pliance with applicable law. Proper use of this information is the sole responsibility of the recipient.
This information relates solely to the product as an ingredient. It may not be applicable, complete or
suitable for the recipient’s finished product or application; therefore republication of such information
or related statements is prohibited. Information provided by Lonza is not intended and should not be
construed as a license to operate under or a recommendation to infringe any patent or other intel-
lectual property right. No claims are made herein for any specific intermediate or end-use application.
© 2017 Lonza
www.lonza.com
www.lonza.com/personalcare
Iscaguard PFA by ISCA
®
ISCA Iscaguard Preservative Blends
Iscaguard PFA
Iscaguard® PFA is a “preservative free additive” with a Physical/Chemical Characteristics
synergistic combination of multifunctional cosmetic raw Caprylyl glycol 35 – 45%
materials with broad-spectrum antimicrobial protection. Phenethyl alcohol 55 – 65%
Iscaguard® PFA may be classed as a “preservative free
system”. This system represent an alternative to Appearance Clear colorless liquid
traditional cosmetic preservatives allowing Odor Mild rose-like odor
self-preserving formulations thereby reducing irritant Density 0.98 g/ml
and sensitizing potentials. pH (0.5% in water) 4.6
Iscaguard® PFA is stable and active over a pH range of Table 35

4 to 8. Typical use levels for Iscaguard® PFA range from Solubility of Iscaguard® PFA (% w/w @ 25ºC)
0.5% to 1.5%. It is synergistic in combination with Water 0.6%
chelating agents. Ethanol >50%
Propylene glycol >50%
Regulatory Status
Butylene glycol >50%
Iscaguard® PFA is permitted worldwide for use in both
leave-on and rinse-off personal care products.
Table 36
Antimicrobial activity of Iscaguard® PFA
EU – allowed without restriction in all products
Microorganism Minimum inhibitory
(not listed on Annex VI)
concentration(%)
USA – allowed without restriction in all products
Japan – allowed without restrictions in all products Pseudomonas aeruginosa 0.10 - 0.30
Escherichia coli 0.10 – 0.20
Phenethyl alcohol is judged safe for use in cosmetics Proteus vulgaris
to 1.0%. Based on the CIR review for phenethyl alcohol
and the good toxicity assessment for caprylyl glycol Staphylococcus aureus 0.175 – 0.2
Iscaguard® PFA should be safe in cosmetics up to 1.8% Bacillus subtilis 0.20
Enterococcus hirae 0.20
INCI name: phenethyl alcohol, caprylyl glycol
Candida albicans 0.175 – 0.25

Using Iscaguard® PFA
Iscaguard® PFA is particularly suitable for emulsions, Saccharomyces cerevisiae 0.10
oil and surfactant based formulations and may be used
in aqueous formulations upto its solubility limit i.e. 0.6%. Aspergillus niger 0.175
Iscaguard® PFA can be added to formulation at
temperatures up to 80ºC, prolonged heating at elevated
temperatures is not recommended.
Making chemistry
Preserving thework for you
tradition
ISCA UK Ltd
Nine Mile Point Industrial Estate
Cross Keys, Newport NP11 7HZ
Wales, UK
Tel: +44(0)1495 200747

Fax: +44(0)1495 200757
E-mail: [email protected]
www.iscauk.com
Technical Service
ISCA support their product range with a telephone
advisory service and in-house microbiological testing
facilities. Please contact any member of our team for
further details.
Disclaimer
Whilst the information contained herein is accurate to the
best of our knowledge, no warranty is either expressed or
implied. It is the responsibility of the individual to ensure
that their products will remain preserved over the
anticipated shelf life.
United Registrar of Systems Cert No.11860

Lexgard Natural by Inolex
Product Bulletin
Lexgard® Natural
INCI ADOPTED NAME Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glyceryl Undecylenate
GENERAL INFORMATION Lexgard Natural is an all-natural multi-functional ingredient system for preservative-free
and self-preserving cosmetics.
Lexgard Natural has the following features:
• 100% vegetable derived
• No petrochemical content
• Ecocertified by the leading natural cosmetic standards
• Its eco-credentials are far superior to “nature identical” petrochemical ingredients
Lexgard Natural is composed of high purity monoesters of caprylic acid (C8 acid) and
undecylenic acid (C11 acid). The former is well established for its biostatic activity against
bacteria and yeast. The latter is known for its activity against fungus. Many formulations
containing Lexgard Natural pass challenge tests required in cosmetics.
PRINCIPAL USES Lexgard Natural is an emollient, co-emulsifier, skin re-fatting agent, and biostatic system. It
is especially recommended for use in w/o or o/w emulsion systems such as skin care
creams and lotions. It may be incorporated in the oil or water phase at any point during the
emulsification process. For antimicrobial performance, a dosage of 1.0% – 1.5% is
recommended. Lexgard Natural is stable and effective at pH 4.0 - 7.5, with optimal results
at pH 5.5 or lower.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES Appearance ..............................................................................................Liquid to white, solid

(TYPICAL) Odor ........................................................................................................... Mild, characteristic
STORAGE AND HANDLING It is recommended that normal safety precautions be employed when handling
Lexgard Natural. Refer to the material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for further information.
SAFETY DATA Refer to the material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for further information.
STANDARD PACKAGING Plastic pail, 55 lb (24.9 kg) net weight.
Inolex and its marketing subsidiaries, affiliates, partners and suppliers, disclaim responsibility for results of use of the Materials or of any product, method, or apparatus mentioned herein. Nothing stated
herein is to be considered a recommendation or inducement of any use, manufacture or sale that may infringe any patents or any other proprietary rights now or hereafter in existence. The Materials are
intended to act as a guide for use at your discretion and risk. We assume no liability in connection with the use, or the utilization of the Materials or the methods or products described therein. Information
pertaining to availability, pricing and technical assistance for these products can be obtained from the marketing department, through the nearest sales representative or authorized distributor.
Copyright  2013 Inolex Chemical Company. All Rights Reserved.
2101 S. Swanson St. | Philadelphia, PA 19148 USA | toll free + 1 800 521 9891 | office + 215 271 0800 | fax + 215 271 6282 | www.inolex.com
Sorbic Acid and Potassium Sorbate as Cosmetic Preservatives
by Eastman
Eastman
Sorbic Acid and Potassium
Sorbate as Cosmetic Preservatives
eastman
Key Characteristics 2
Contents
Wide-Spectrum Antimicrobials for Maintaining Freshness 2
Properties 3
Solubility Charts 4
Antimicrobial Effectiveness 7
Factors That Influence the Effectiveness of Preservatives 8
Microorganisms Inhibited by Sorbates 9
Relationship of pH to Antimicrobial Effectiveness 11
Sorbate Use Levels 14
Safety and Regulatory Status 15
Storage and Handling 16
References 16
1
■ Wide-spectrum antimicrobial
Key Characteristics ■ Good water-to-oil partition coefficient
■ Compatible with other cosmetic ingredients
■ Effective over a wide pH range
■ Nontoxic, safe for human use
■ Environmentally safe
Sorbic acid and potassium sorbate are excellent, safe preservatives for
Wide-Spectrum cosmetics and personal care products with a pH lower than 6.5. They
Antimicrobials have good skin compatibility and are easy to use, especially potassium
for Maintaining sorbate in salt form.
Freshness
Sorbic acid, a straight-chained monocarboxylic acid whose chemical
formula is C6H8O2, has the following structure:
CH3—CH—CHCH—CH—C—O
OH
2,4-Hexadienoic Acid
Sorbic Acid
CAS No. 110-44-1
The structure for the potassium salt known as potassium sorbate

(C6H7O2K) is:
CH3—CH—CHCH—CH—C—O
OK
2,4-Hexadienoic Acid
Potassium Salt
CAS No. 24634-61-5
Sorbic acid was first isolated from the pressed unripened berries of the
rowan or mountain ash tree by A. W. Hoffmann, a German chemist,
in 1859.
The antimicrobial preservative power of sorbic acid wasn’t discovered

until 1939–1940. After that, the effectiveness of sorbic acid as a
preservative and its physiological safety were thoroughly studied. As early
as 1955, both sorbic acid and potassium sorbate were proven to be safe
and innocuous. Since that time, sorbates have been approved for use as
food preservatives in nearly all countries of the world. Sorbic acid has
been used as a preservative in cosmetics since the early 1960s.
Eastman is the only American manufacturer of sorbic acid. Both sorbic

acid and its potassium salt are manufactured at a modern plant located at
Chocolate Bayou near Alvin, Texas. They are manufactured under
rabbinical supervision and are kosher.
2
The following pages provide a variety of technical data to help determine
whether sorbates are suitable for your particular application. The sections
give property and solubility information, specific organisms inhibited by
sorbates, effectiveness of sorbates under various conditions and use levels,
and product safety and regulatory information. Additional information
can be obtained by contacting Eastman Chemical Company Technical
Service.
Propertiesa
Properties
Eastman Eastman
Sorbic Acid Potassium Sorbate
INCI/CTFA Nameb Sorbic Acid Potassium Sorbate
Molecular Weight 112.13 150.22
Water Solubility @ 20°C 0.15% 58.2%
Solubility in Organic Compounds,
% by wt @ 20°C
Ethanol, 100% 12.9 2.0
Ethanol, 95% 12.6 6.5
Ethanol, 50% 4.8 45.3
Ethanol, 20% 0.29 54.6
Ethanol, 5% 0.16 57.4
Ethyl Ether 5.0 0.1
Fatty Oils 0.6–1.2 <0.1
Propylene Glycol 5.5 20
Glycerol 0.31 0.20
Acetic Acid, Glacial 11.5 —
Acetone 9.2 0.1
Vapor Pressure, mm Hg
@ 20°C <0.001 NA
@ 120°C 10 NA
@ 140°C 43 NA
Flash Point, °C (°F)
(COC, ASTM D 92) 127 (260) none
Ionization Constant @ 25°C 1.73 3 1025 —
Assay, Dry Basis 99.0%–101.0% 98.0%–101.0%
Identification Passes Food Chemicals Codex Specifications
Appearance White to off-white, free flowing
Melting Range 132.0°–135.0°C Decomposes
above 270°C
Water Content 0.5% maximum 1.0% maximum
Alkalinity/Acidity — 1.1 mL 0.1N NaOH
to 0.8 mL 0.1N
HCl per 1.1 g
Products Available Powder, dust-free Powder or granular
aProperties reported here are typical of average lots. Eastman makes no representation that
the material in any shipment will conform to the values given.
bInternational Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient; Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association.
NA—Not Applicable
3
Eastman sorbic acid and Eastman potassium sorbate are highly refined,
white to off-white, free-flowing powders or granules. Sorbic acid provides
greater antimicrobial potency than potassium sorbate. However, in water,
sorbic acid is barely soluble while potassium sorbate is extremely soluble.
Therefore, potassium sorbate is usually chosen as a preservative for cosmetic
products. The potency of the salt on an equivalent weight basis to the
acid is 74%. Thus, for equal preservative power, four parts of potassium
salt must be used to equal three parts sorbic acid.
Solubility in Water
SORBIC ACID, 0° TO 100°C

4.00
3.00
Sorbic Acid, percent by weight
2.00
1.00
0.00
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Temperature, °C
POTASSIUM SORBATE, 0° TO 100°C

100
90
80
Potassium Sorbate, percent by weight
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Temperature, °C
4
Solubility in Corn and Cottonseed Oils
SORBIC ACID, 0° TO 100°C

10
8
7
2
COTTONSEED OIL
1
CORN OIL
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Temperature, °C
POTASSIUM SORBATE, 0° TO 100°C

0.20
0.18
0.16
0.14
0.12
0.10
0.08
0.06
CORN AND COTTONSEED OIL
0.04
0.02
0.00
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Temperature, °C
5
Solubility in Propylene Glycol/ Water Solutions
SORBIC ACID, 20°C
6.00

5.00
4.00
3.00
2.00
1.00
0.00
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Propylene Glycol, percent by weight
POTASSIUM SORBATE, 20°C
80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100
Propylene Glycol, percent by weight
6
Above about 60°C (140°F), sorbic acid begins to sublime. This volatility
should be considered when sorbate is to be added prior to a heating step
in the existing process.
Sorbates have a relatively high water-to-oil partition coefficient. A high

water-to-oil partition coefficient means a high concentration of sorbates in
the aqueous phase and a low concentration in the oil phase. As the pH of
the formulation increases (approaching pH = 7) and sorbic acid converts
to the salt form, the partition coefficient increases. A high partition
coefficient is favorable because microorganisms reproduce in the aqueous
phase and, in the case of an emulsion, at the interface between the aqueous
and oil phase. Therefore, a balance is achieved. Even though the potassium
sorbate has less antimicrobial potency than sorbic acid, it offers better
solubility in water where antimicrobial effectiveness is most needed.
Sorbates are compatible with other cosmetic ingredients. Unlike the

p-hydroxybenzoic acid esters (parabens), sorbic acid remains active when
used with nonionic emulsifiers. Sorbates do have an antagonistic effect on
chlorhexidin digluconate, which is inactivated by the potassium ion.
However, chlorhexidin digluconate and sorbates are not normally used in
the same products. Sorbates are used in leave-on or rinse-off products
and chlorhexidin digluconate is used in oral hygiene products. Several
other cosmetic preservatives are also antagonistic to chlorhexidin
digluconate.
Under certain conditions, sorbic acid may oxidize and cause slight color
changes in the cosmetic product. This can normally be prevented by
adding 0.1%–0.3% citric acid to the product. Citric acid may already be
added to cosmetics to obtain a skin-neutral pH. Highly concentrated
solutions of sorbic acid and potassium sorbate may oxidize and become
discolored during prolonged storage, especially when exposed to sunlight.
Therefore, sorbate stock solutions should be used up as soon as possible.
Most cosmetics have great potential for microbial contamination and

Antimicrobial growth, especially creams and lotions that are packed in jars, opened
Effectiveness frequently, and applied to the skin with the fingers. Brushes that are
used to apply makeup around the eyes or other parts of the face touch
the skin and the cosmetic repeatedly. Each use increases the chance for
contamination. Several cases of eye ulceration and partial or complete
blindness have been attributed to mascaras contaminated with pseudomonas.
Cosmetic contamination may also occur because consumers leave the
containers open for a period of time. Moreover, most cosmetics are
stored at room temperature and the warm temperatures stimulate the
growth of microorganisms. In addition, the ingredients in cosmetics
contain all the things microorganisms like—water, oils, peptides, and a
variety of carbohydrates.
7
All of these factors mean that good preservatives are essential for cosmetics.
In fact, cosmetics need better preservation than foods normally stored in
cooler temperatures and consumed quickly. Cosmetic preservatives must
be strong, but they must also be nonirritating to skin. Sorbates fit both of
these criteria.
Sorbic acid is effective against small populations of common micro-

organisms in cosmetics. Cosmetic preservatives are not intended to
combat extremely high counts of bacteria. They are intended to control
small populations that would normally be present in products manufactured
under clean, sanitary conditions. Sorbic acid can be metabolized by
some species of organisms when they are present in extremely high
concentrations. However, this situation should not occur when good
manufacturing practices are employed.
When selecting a preservative and establishing a use level, two factors are
particularly important: the type of microorganisms that can potentially
grow and the pH of the product. Other factors to consider include water
content, storage temperature, shelf life expectancy, and potential for
abuse in distribution and use. Generally higher sorbate levels are required
when the water content is higher and storage temperatures are warmer.
Initial Contamination Level

Factors That Influence
the Effectiveness ■ Raw materials
of Preservatives ■ Water supply
■ Processing sanitation—equipment and premises
Composition of Cosmetic/Personal Care Product

■ pH of the product
■ Water content
■ Antimicrobial effects of other ingredients
Distribution and Use

■ Packaging
■ Storage temperature
■ Shelf life expectancy
■ Potential for contamination by consumer
8
The following charts list the most common microorganisms inhibited by
Microorganisms Inhibited sorbates. These organisms are not necessarily found in cosmetics.
by Sorbates
Molds
Alternaria citria Myrothecium sp.b

Alternaria tenuisb Papularia arundinisb
Alternaria spp.c Penicillium atromentosumb
Ascochyta cucumisb Penicillium chermesinumb
Ascochyta sp.b Penicillium chrysogenumc
Aspergillus clavatusa Penicillium citrinuma
Aspergillus elegansb Penicillium digitatuma
Aspergillus flavusb Penicillium duclauxib
Aspergillus fumigatusb Penicillium expansumb
Aspergillus glaucusc Penicillium frequentansb
Aspergillus nigerb,c Penicillium funiculosumb
Aspergillus ocraceusa Penicillium gladiolib
Aspergillus parasiticusa Penicillium herqueib
Aspergillus sydowib Penicillium implicatumb
Aspergillus terreusb Penicillium italicuma
Aspergillus unguisb Penicillium janthinellumb
Aspergillus versicolorb Penicillium notatumc
Botrytis cinereaa Penicillium oxalicumb,c
Cephalosporium sp.b Penicillium patulum
Cercospora sp.b Penicillium piscariumb
Chaetomium globosumb Penicillium purpurogenuma
Cladosporium cladosporiodesb Penicillium restrictumb
Colletotrichum lagenariumb Penicillium roquefortiic
Cunninghamella echinulatab Penicillium rugulosumb
Curvularia trifoliib Penicillium sublateritiumb
Fusarium episphaeriab Penicillium thomiib
Fusarium moniliformeb,c Penicillium urticaeb
Fusarium oxysporumb,c Penicillium variabileb
Fusarium roseumc Penicillium spp.b,c (2 strains tested)
Fusarium rubruma Pestolotiopsis macrotricha sp.b
Fusarium solanib,c Phoma sp.b
Fusarium tricinctuma Pullularia pullulansb,c
Geotrichum candiduma Rhizoctonia solania
Geotrichum sp.b (2 strains tested) Rhizopus arrhizusb
Gliocladium roseumb Rhizopus nigricansb,c
Helminthosporium sp.b (2 strains tested) Rosellinia sp.b
Heterosporium terrestreb Sporotrichum pruinosumb
Humicola fusco-atra.b Stagonospora sp.b
Mucor silvaticusb Stysanus sp.b
Mucor spp.b,c (5 strains tested) Thielavia basicolab
Myrothecium roridumb Trichoderma virideb
Myrothecium verrucariab Truncatella sp.b
aEastman Chemical Company unpublished data.
bBell,T. A., Etchells, J. L., and Borg, A. F., J. Bacteriology 77 573 (1959).
cYork, G. K., Dissertation, University of California Davis (1960).
9
Yeasts
Brettanomyces clauseniic Rhodotorula flavab

Brettanomyces versatilisb Rhodotorula glutinisb
Candida albicansb,c Rhodotorula rubrab,c
Candida kruseib,c Rhodotorula spp.b
Candida tropicalisc Saccharomyces cerevisiaeb,c
Candida mycodermac Saccharomyces cerevisiae var.
Cryptococcus terreusc ellipsoideusc
Cryptococcus neoformansb Saccharomyces carlsbergensis
Cryptococcus sp.c Saccharomyces fragilisb,c
Debaryomyces membranaefaciensc Saccharomyces rouxiic
Debaryomyces membranaefaciens Saccharomyces delbrueckiib
var. hollandicusb Saccharomyces lactisb
Debaryomyces spp.c Schizosaccharomyces octosporusc
Endomycopsis ohmerib Sporobolomyces sp.c
Hansenula anomalac Torulaspora roseib,c
Hansenula saturnusc Torulopsis candidab
Hansenula subpelliculosab,c Torulopsis carolinianab
Oospora sp.c Torulopsis minorb
Pichia alcoholophilab Torulopsis polcherrimac
Pichia membranaefaciensc Torulopsis versitalis lipoferab
Pichia polymorphac Zygosaccharomyces globiformisb
Pichia silvestrisc Zygosaccharomyces
Pichia sp.b halomembranisb
Bacteria
Acetobacter acetic Micrococcus sp.c

Acetobacter xylinumc Propionibacterium zeaec
Achromobacter sp.c Propionibacterium freundenreichii
Alcaligenes faecalisc Proteus vulgarisc
Azotobacter agilisc Pseudomonas aeruginosad
Bacillus coagulansc Pseudomonas fragic
Bacillus cereusc Pseudomonas fluorescensa
Bacillus poymyxac Pseudomonas sp.c
Bacillus stearothermophilusc Salmonella heidelberga
Bacillus subtilisc Salmonella montevideoa
Clostridium perfringensa Salmonella typhimuriumc
Clostridium sporogenesa Salmonella enteritidisc
Clostridium tetanid Sarcina luteac
Enterobacter aerogenesc Serratia marcescensc
Escherichia colic Staphylococcus aureusc
Escherichia freundiic Streptococcus pyogenesd
Klebsiella speciesd Vibrio parahaemolyticusa
Lactobacillus brevisa
aEastman Chemical Company unpublished data.
bBell,T. A., Etchells, J. L., and Borg, A. F., J. Bacteriology 77 573 (1959).
cYork, G. K., Dissertation, University of California Davis (1960).
dJager, M., Preservatech Conference Proceedings, pp 39–50 (1995).
10
The antimicrobial potency of all commercial cosmetic preservatives is
Relationship of pH to pH-dependent. Sorbates are more effective at higher pH ranges than
Antimicrobial other organic acids used as preservatives. Sorbates are effective up to 6.5,
Effectiveness whereas benzoates are effective to only 4.5. These preservative compounds
can be used in either the acid or salt form. Their antimicrobial activity is
mainly due to the undissociated acid molecule. Sorbates are most effective
when used below pH 6.0. They function up to pH 6.5, but are relatively
ineffective above pH 7.0.
The graph shows the relative inhibition of yeast by equal concentrations

of sorbate and benzoate at pH 5.5 and 30°C when a broth is inoculated
with 3 3 104 organisms/mL. Growth is measured by the optical density
of the broth. Sorbate significantly delays growth, and the amount of
ultimate growth at 72 hours is far less.
SACCHAROMYCES CEREVISIAE
pH 5.5, 30°C
3.0 3 104
UNPROTECTED
1.0
0.9
0.8
0.7 0.10% SODIUM BENZOATE
0.6
0.5
0.4
O.D.
0.10% POTASSIUM SORBATE

0.3
0.2
0.1
0 24 48 72
Time (Hours)
11
The following graphs show the effectiveness of sorbate at pH 5.0, 5.5, 6.0, and 6.5
ESCHERICHIA COLI SACCHAROMYCES CEREVISIAE
pH 5.0 pH 5.0
1.0 1.0
0.9 0.9
0.8 0.8
0.7 0.7
0.6 0.6 CONTROL
CONTROL
0.5 0.5
0.4 0.4
O.D.
O.D.
0.3 0.3
0.05% SORBATE
0.2 0.2
0.05% SORBATE
0.1% SORBATE
0.1% SORBATE
0.1 0.1
0 24 48 72 0 24 48 72
Time (Hours) Time (Hours)
pH 5.5 pH 5.5
1.0 1.0
0.9 0.9
0.8 CONTROL 0.8 CONTROL
0.7 0.7
0.6 0.6
0.5 0.5
0.05% SORBATE
0.4 0.4
O.D.
O.D.
0.3 0.05% SORBATE

0.3
0.2 0.2 0.1% SORBATE
0.1% SORBATE
0.1 0.1
0 24 48 72 0 24 48 72
pH 6.0 pH 6.0
1.0 1.0
0.9 0.9
0.8 CONTROL 0.8 CONTROL
0.7 0.7
0.6 0.6
0.5 0.5 0.05% SORBATE
0.05% SORBATE
0.4 0.4
O.D.
O.D.
0.3 0.3 0.1% SORBATE
0.2 0.1% SORBATE 0.2
0.1 0.1
0 24 48 72 0 24 48 72
12
STAPHYLOCOCCUS AUREUS SALMONELLA
pH 5.5 pH 5.0
1.0 1.0
0.9 0.9
0.8 0.8
0.7 0.7
0.6 0.6
CONTROL
0.5 0.5
CONTROL
0.4 0.4
O.D.
O.D.
0.3 0.3
0.10% SORBATE
0.2 0.2
0.05% SORBATE
0.1% SORBATE
0.1 0.1
0 24 48 72 0 24 48 72
Time (Hours)
Time (Hours)
pH 6.0 1.0 pH 5.5

1.0 0.9
0.9 0.8
0.8 0.7 CONTROL
0.7 CONTROL
0.6
0.6
0.5
0.5
0.4
0.4
0.10% SORBATE 0.05% SORBATE
O.D.
O.D.
0.3
0.3
0.2
0.2
0.1% SORBATE
0.1
0.1
0 24 48 72 0 24 48 72
pH 6.5 pH 6.0
1.0 CONTROL 1.0
0.9 0.9
0.8 0.8 CONTROL
0.7 0.10% SORBATE 0.7
0.6 0.6
0.5 0.5
0.4 0.05% SORBATE
0.4
O.D.
O.D.
0.3 0.3
0.1% SORBATE
0.2 0.2
0.1 0.1
0 24 48 72 0 24 48 72
13
Normally, Eastman sorbic acid and Eastman potassium sorbate are effective
Sorbate Use Levels in a concentration range of 0.05% to 0.3% by weight. Generally, the
higher the sorbate level, the longer the microbial growth will be inhibited.
Increasing the potential of exposure to microbial contamination (e.g.,
cosmetic containers that are opened frequently, contents that last beyond
a single use, or a product that is particularly susceptible to attack) requires
the use of a higher level of preservative.
In a study done on a rinse-off product, potassium sorbate was very

effective in combating microorganisms. The product was inoculated with
Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa,
Aspergillus niger, and Candida albicans. When the rinse-off product (pH
5.5) contained 0.4% potassium sorbate, fewer than 10 microorganisms
remained in the product after both one week and one month even
though the initial concentration had been as high as 6.5 3 105. For most
of the microorganisms tested, 0.4% potassium sorbate in combination
with 0.1% citric acid reduced the microorganism counts faster than
potassium sorbate alone.
Another study showed that 0.05% to 0.2% sorbates are required to combat
gram positive bacteria such as Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus
pyrogenes, and Clostridium perfringens. Greater than 0.4% sorbates are
required to fight Clostridium tetani.
It also showed that 0.05% to 0.2% sorbates are required to combat gram
negative bacteria such as Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Klebsiella species.
0.2% to 0.4% sorbates are required to fight Pseudomonas fluorescens.
Molds such as Candida albicans, Candida parapsilosis, Aspergillus species,

Penicillum species, Fusarium species, Geotrichum candidum, Rhizopus
nigricans, Pullularia pullulans, Rhodotorula rubra, and Alternaria species
are kept in check by 0.05% to 0.2% sorbates.
Use Levels of Sorbic Acid and Potassium Sorbate in Cosmetics

Market Survey, 1995
(According to M. Jager, 1995 Preservatech Conference Proceedings)
Used w/
Product Chelating Agent pH-Value Concentration%a
Shampoo Yes 4.8–5.6 0.15–0.3
Shower Gel Yes 4.8–5.6 0.15–0.35
Body Lotion Yes 5.0–6.0 0.1–0.2
Sun Lotion Yes 5.2–5.6 0.1–0.2b
Cleansing Lotion No 5.8–6.2 0.1–0.2b
Toning Lotion Yes 5.8 <0.1b
Artificial Tanning Lotion Yes 4.9 <0.1b
Oral Hygiene Products No 6.5–6.6 0.15
Moist Tissues Yes 5.5–5.9 0.1–0.15
aConcentrations are calculated as sorbic acid, although potassium sorbate is more
commonly used.
bSorbic acid used in combination with other preservatives.
14
Sorbic acid is a naturally occurring fatty acid similar in structure to corn
Safety and Regulatory oil’s linoleic acid and margarine’s oleic acid. Because sorbates are commonly
Status used as preservatives for foods, they have been subjected to repeated toxi-
cological testing. In acute oral toxicity studies, sorbic acid and potassium
sorbate were practically nontoxic to mice and rats.
Sorbates do not irritate the skin. At concentrations up to 10%, sorbic acid

and potassium sorbate were practically nonirritating to rabbits’ eyes. Very
few allergic reactions to sorbic acid have been demonstrated. As a result,
sorbates are often used in baby-care products and creams and lotions.
Sorbic acid and potassium sorbate have been tested for mutagenic and
other genotoxic effects using a variety of tests. The sorbates were at most
weakly genotoxic in some of the tests.
Sorbates are nonphotosensitizing, so they are also appropriate as

preservatives for sun care products.
Sorbates are environmentally safe. Even though they function as antimi-

crobials, they are rapidly and completely broken down in biological
wastewater treatment plants. Sorbic acid is classified in the lowest water
hazard class (0) by the German government and does not harm aquatic
life. Many other cosmetic preservatives are classified in water hazard class
1 or 2. A few are even classified as a 3, the highest water-hazard class.
Sorbic acid and potassium sorbate have general acceptance as preservatives

for almost all types of foods and are accepted for use in cosmetics in
accordance with the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and
Handbook, CTFA.1
■ The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) panel has concluded

that sorbic acid and potassium sorbate are safe as cosmetic ingredients
in the present practices of use and concentration—up to 1.0%.
■ The European Commission Cosmetic Directive has approved the use of
sorbic acid without restrictions or warning labels at levels up to 0.6%.
This is equal to 0.8% potassium sorbate.
■ The Japanese Ministry of Health and Welfare has approved sorbic acid
and potassium sorbate for use in hair-care products and cleansing,
makeup, suntan and sunscreen, lip, eyeliner, and bath preparations at
levels up to 0.5%. This level of sorbic acid is equal to 0.67% potassium
sorbate.
■ Sorbates have been approved as cosmetic preservatives in China and
Australia.
1Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association.
15
Eastman sorbic acid and Eastman potassium sorbate are shipped and
Storage and Handling stored in boxes that have a moisture-barrier inner liner. The compounds
deteriorate when exposed to heat or light for prolonged periods of time.
Boxes should be kept closed as much as possible. Storage areas should be
cool and dry. In order to minimize exposure to elevated temperatures,
boxes should not be stored next to steam lines or directly under space
heaters.
Aruba aloe Internet site.

References
CIR Compendium, p. 138–139, 1996.
Eastman Chemical Company, “Sorbic Acid and Potassium Sorbate for

Preserving Food Freshness.” Publication ZS-1C, August 1995.
Food and Drug Research Labs, Inc. Scientific literature reviews on

generally recognized as safe (GRAS) food ingredients—Sorbic acid and
its derivatives. June, 1973. PB-223-864. National Technical Information
Service. U.S. Department of Commerce.
Gaunt, I. F.; Butterworth, K. R.; Hardy, J.; and Gangoli, S. D., “Long-
Term Toxicity of Sorbic Acid in the Rat.” Fd. Cosmet. Toxicol., 13(1), 31,
1975.
Hendy, R. J.; Hardy, J.; Gaunt, I. F.; Kiss, I. S.; and Butterworth, K. R.,
“Long-Term Toxicity Studies of Sorbic Acid in Mice.” Fd. Cosmet.
Toxicol., 14,318, 1976.
Jager, Martin, “Sorbic Acid—The Gentle Alternative for Preservation,”

Preservatech Conference Proceedings, pp. 39–50, 1995.
Lück, Erich, “Sorbic Acid for the Preservation of Cosmetic

Preparations,” Soap, Perfumery, & Cosmetics, November 1964, p. 981.
Meyer, B.; Gedek, B.; Heinzel, M., “Mycotoxins—Relevance to

Cosmetics.” Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 107, May 1992, pp. 75–79.
Sofos, John, Sorbate Food Preservatives. Boca Raton: CRC Press, Inc.,
p. 147.
U.S. FDA, Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition, FDA/IAS*
Booklet, 1992.
Woodford, R. and Adams, E., “The Effect of Ethanol and Propylene

Glycol, and a Mixture of Potassium Sorbate with Either, on Pseudomonas
Aeruginosa Contamination of an Oil-in-Water Cream,” Am. Cos. and
Perfumery, 87 (2), 53, 1972.
Woodford, R. and Adams, E., “Sorbic Acid,” American Perfumer and

Cosmetics, Vol. 85, March 1970, p. 25.
16
eastman
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Tobias Asserlaan 5
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Spectrastat by Inolex
Product Bulletin
Spectrastat™ G2 Patent Pending
INCI ADOPTED NAME Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) Glyceryl Caprylate (and) Glycerin
GENERAL INFORMATION Spectrastat G2 is a complete system for preservative-free cosmetic and personal care
products. Spectrastat G2 contains no biocides or typical preservatives. Instead it uses
multifunctional ingredients that have excellent efficacy as biostatic and fungistatic agents.
Spectrastat G2 is ideal for personal care products where a paraben-free or preservative-
free claim is needed. It can be used as an alternative to traditional preservative blends that
are seen as undesirable by the consumer. A special benefit of Spectrastat G2 is that it
performs superbly at neutral pH, a state where many other alternative materials are
ineffective.
Spectrastat G2 is compatible with most cosmetic ingredients. However, it can interact with
residual iron found in some clay-type compounds (e.g., bentonite, silicates, etc). This
interaction with iron may produce a very mild orange color or color shift that is barely
perceivable to the eye in most formulations. In cases where the clays are high in iron, the
colored compounds may be more perceivable.
PRINCIPAL USES Spectrastat G2 may be used in emulsion, anhydrous, and surfactant systems. These
include creams, lotions, shower gels, and make-up. It may be added to the water phase, at
ambient or hot temperatures, or may be added post-emulsification of O/W emulsions.
During formulation/compounding, lengthy exposure to elevated temperatures should be
avoided. For example, when compounding at 90°C, exposure should be limited to two
hours; when compounding at 60°C, exposure should be limited to six hours.
Typical use level is 1.0% w/w to 1.2% w/w.
PHYSICAL PROPERTIES Appearance ........................................Yellow to amber, Clear liquid above room temperature
(TYPICAL) Odor............................................................................................................Mild, characteristic
STORAGE AND HANDLING Store indoors, below 30°C and away from sources of heat. The product may solidify or
precipitate. Gently heat to 35° – 45°C with mixing until material is homogeneous. It is
recommended that normal safety precautions be employed when handling Spectrastat G2.
Refer to the material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for further information.
SAFETY DATA Refer to the material Safety Data Sheet (SDS) for further information.
STANDARD PACKAGING Plastic pail, 55 lb (24.9 kg) net weight.
Inolex and its marketing subsidiaries, affiliates, partners and suppliers, disclaim responsibility for results of use of the Materials or of any product, method, or apparatus mentioned herein. Nothing stated
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Article in Journal of Applied Microbiology
Weak-Acid Preservatives
Journal of Applied Microbiology 1999, 86, 157–164
Weak-acid preservatives: modelling microbial inhibition and

response
R.J. Lambert and M. Stratford
Microbiology Section, Unilever Research, Sharnbrook, Bedford UK
6862/08/98: received 21 August 1998 and accepted 26 August 1998
Weak-acid preservatives are widely used to

R .J . L A MB ER T AN D M . ST RA T FO RD . 1999.
prevent microbial spoilage of acidic foods and beverages. Characteristically, weak-acid
preservatives do not kill micro-organisms but inhibit growth, causing very extended
lag phases. Preservatives are more effective at low pH values where solutions contain increased
concentrations of undissociated acids. Inhibition by weak-acids involves rapid diffusion
of undissociated molecules through the plasma membrane; dissociation of these
molecules within cells liberates protons, thus acidifying the cytoplasm and preventing
growth. By modelling preservative action in yeast, using a thermodynamic and
kinetic approach, it was possible to demonstrate that: (i) inhibition depends more on
the degree to which individual preservatives are concentrated within cells, rather than on
undissociated acid concentration per se; (ii) it is entirely feasible for microbes to pump
protons out of the cell during extended lag phase and raise internal pH (pHi),
despite further influx of preservatives; (iii) the duration of the lag phase can be predicted
from the model, using a Gaussian fit of proton-pumping H¦-ATPase activity against pHi;
(iv) theoretical ATP consumption for proton pumping can be directly correlated with
the reduction in cell yield observed in glucose-limited cultures.
NOMENCLATURE acid in pickles, propionic acid in bread and more recently,

sorbic and benzoic acids in soft drinks (Chichester and Tan-
pHi, internal (cytoplasmic) pH; pHo, external (extracellular)
ner 1972). All are targeted mainly against yeasts and moulds;
pH; [HAo], external associated weak-acid concentration/mol
low pH alone, less than pH 4·5, will prevent spore ger-
l−1; [HAi], internal associated weak-acid concentration/mol
mination and growth of the great majority of bacteria (Gard-
l−1; [A−i], internal dissociated, anion concentration/mol l−1;
ner 1972; Smelt et al. 1982). Over the last few years, consumer
[A−o], external dissociated anion concentration/mol l−1; K,
demand for more ‘natural’ foodstuffs has caused a move away
weak acid equilibrium constant; r, rate of proton efflux, mol/
from chemical additions to food products and legislation in
time units; t, time elapsed, arbitrary time units.
many parts of the world now limits their use. For example,
within the EEC, sorbic acid is limited to 300 ppm in soft
INTRODUCTION drinks. Preservative-resistant yeasts such as Zygosaccharo-
myces bailii can grow in soft drinks containing in excess of
The documented use of weak-acid preservatives to inhibit
500 ppm (Ingram 1960; Neves et al. 1994).
growth of micro-organisms in foods and beverages extends
Weak-acid preservatives appear to share a common mode
back many centuries. John Evelyn in 1670 described the use
of action, despite their various chemical structures. All
of sulphur dioxide from burning sulphur in the preservation
become increasingly potent as antimicrobial agents at more
of cider (Rose and Pilkington 1989). Sulphur dioxide and
acidic pH values. In aqueous solution, weak-acids exist in
sulphites continue to be the method of choice for the pres-
pH-dependent equilibria between uncharged, acid molecules
ervation of wine. Other weak-acid preservatives include acetic
and their respective charged anions, for example acetic acid/
Correspondence to: Dr R.J. Lambert, Microbiology Section, Unilever
acetate. The proportion of undissociated acid increases as
Research, Colworth House, Sharnbrook, Bedford MK44 1LQ, UK the pH declines; the pH value at which there exists equal
(e-mail: [email protected]). proportions of molecular acid and charged anions, is termed
© 1999 The Society for Applied Microbiology
158 R .J . L A MB ER T AN D M . ST RA T FO RD
the pKa. It is generally agreed that only undissociated acids influx of further weak acid. This model allows the prediction
have antimicrobial activity, although some activity by anions of the lag time required to raise the internal pH and for
has been suggested (Eklund 1989). growth to begin.
Affected micro-organisms are rarely killed but growth is
prevented. After very extended lag phases lasting days or
even weeks, growth is poor and cell yields are greatly reduced. MATERIALS AND METHODS
Inhibition of respiration and active transport have been
reported (Freese et al. 1973). The mechanism of action of Yeast strain
weak-acid preservatives is thought to involve diffusion of The yeast strain used in this work was Saccharomyces cere-
lipophilic acid molecules through the plasma membrane into visiae X2180–1B, MATa SUC2 mal gal2 CUP1. This is
the cytoplasm (Stratford and Rose 1986). There they encoun- available from the National Collection of Yeast Cultures,
ter a pH value near to neutrality and are forced to dissociate Institute of Food Research, Norwich NR4 7UA, UK, as
into charged ions. Charged ions cannot return across the strain NCYC 957.
plasma membrane and anions are thus concentrated within
the cell (Fig. 1). Dissociation of each weak-acid molecule will
release a proton and the cytoplasm will become increasingly Media and culture conditions
acidic. Acidification of the cytoplasm may prevent growth by Yeast cultures were maintained at 4 °C on YEPD agar slopes.
inhibition of glycolysis (Krebs et al. 1983), by prevention of This contained glucose 20 g l−1, yeast extract 10 g l−1, bac-
active transport (Freese et al. 1973) or by interference with teriological peptone 20 g l−1 and agar 20 g l−1. Aerobically-
signal transduction. pHi is increasingly recognized as having grown, 24 h starter cultures were used to inoculate experi-
a role in signalling (Thevelein 1994). The cellular response mental cultures at 1 mg dry weight l−1 (approximately 104
to inhibition caused by weak-acid preservatives may involve cells ml−1). As indicated, potassium sorbate was added to
removal of preservatives by an efflux pump (Warth 1989), YEPD broth and the pH adjusted with HCl prior to auto-
although evidence for this is disputed (Cole and Keenan claving. In certain experiments, a semi-defined medium
1987). Of greater importance is more likely the plasma mem- (pH 4·0) was used to minimize preservative binding. This
brane H¦-ATPase. This has been shown to be involved in contained fructose 20 g l−1, ammonium sulphate 1 g l−1,
weak-acid resistance (Cole and Keenan 1987; Vallejo and KH2PO4 3 g l−1, citric acid 6 g l−1 and yeast extract 1 g l−1.
Serrano 1989), although its role remained questionable given Preservatives were added from filter-sterilized 500 mmol l−1
that if pHi were raised by proton pumping, further weak- stock solutions. The yeast was grown in 50 ml media aliquots
acid molecules would penetrate the cell and re-acidify the in 125 ml conical flasks, at 30 °C, on an orbital shaker, 150 rev
cytoplasm. min−1. Growth was monitored by optical absorbance at
Here, a model is presented based on known principles of 600 nm and converted to dry weight using a calibration curve.
physical chemistry, in which cytoplasmic pH is progressively The duration of the lag phase was estimated by linear
raised during the lag phase by proton pumping, despite the regression of the semilog growth plots, and determining the
intersection of the growth line with the log of the inoculum
cell concentration.
pHin
pHout
HA H+ + A– Undissociated fractions of weak-acids
H+ + A– HA
ATP
Proportions of dissociated and undissociated forms of weak-
acid preservatives at each pH were calculated using the
microbial
Henderson-Hasselbalch equation:
membrane
[A−]
pH pKa ¦ log
[HA]
H+-ATPase pump Undissociated fractions of sulphite, nitrite, sorbate and ben-
H
+ zoate are shown in Table 1.
Fig. 1 Predicted medium and cytoplasmic weak-acid/anion
equilibria. Only uncharged weak-acid molecules (HA) can Modelling pHi and proton transport
diffuse freely across the plasma membrane. Charged anions (A−)
and protons (H¦) are retained within the cell; cytoplasmic protons The basic model. For the purpose of the model, activities
are expelled by the membrane-bound H¦-ATPase are modelled as concentrations. This simplification holds true
© 1999 The Society for Applied Microbiology, Journal of Applied Microbiology 86, 157–164
M OD EL L IN G W E AK -A C ID PR E SE RV A TI ON 159
Table 1 Percentage of undissociated acid/anions of weak-acid preservatives at pH values 4·0–6·75

––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
—
Sulphite/ Nitrous Sorbic Benzoic
pH SO2 bisulphite acid Nitrite acid Sorbate acid Benzoate
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
—
4·0 0·585 99·415 16·317 83·683 84·902 15·098 61·314 38·686
4·25 0·330 99·670 9·881 90·119 75·975 24·025 47·125 52·875
4·5 0·186 99·814 5·808 94·192 64·006 35·994 33·386 66·614
4·75 0·105 99·895 3·351 96·649 50·000 50·000 21·987 78·013
5·0 0·059 99·941 1·913 98·087 35·993 64·007 13·681 86·319
5·25 0·033 99·967 1·085 98·915 24·025 75·975 8·183 91·817
5·5 0·019 99·981 0·613 99·387 15·098 84·902 4·773 95·227
5·75 0·011 99·989 0·346 99·654 9·091 90·909 2·741 97·259
6·0 0·006 99·994 0·195 99·805 5·324 94·676 1·560 98·440
6·25 0·003 99·997 0·109 99·891 3·065 96·935 0·883 99·117
6·5 0·002 99·998 0·062 99·938 1·747 98·253 0·499 99·501
6·75 0·001 99·999 0·035 99·965 0·990 99·010 0·281 99·719
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
—
Values were calculated using the Henderson-Hasselbalch equation and pKa values of SO2/bisulphite, 1·77 ; nitrous acid/nitrite, 3·29 ;
sorbic acid/sorbate, 4·74 ; benzoic acid/benzoate, 4·20.
for low concentrations. At higher concentrations, the indi- From the definition of pH:
vidual concentrations should be replaced by activities.
Consider two vessels, 1 and 2, containing weak acid, at pHo−log [A− −
o ]¦log [HAo] pHi−log [Ai ]¦log [HAi]
equilibrium, from the definition of the equilibrium constant,
(3)
the following holds:
For the situation where pHo pHi and as, for a semi-per-
− −
[H¦1 ][A1 ] [H¦2 ][A2 ] meable membrane, [HAo] [HAi], then [Ao−] [Ai−]. If
(1)
[HA1] [HA2] pHo pHi then Equation 4 must be satisfied:
Consider now a situation where one of the vessels is the [HA] [HA]
log −log pHi−pHo (4)
interior of a cell separated from the other by a semi-permeable −
[A ]
o [A−
i ]
membrane; Equation 1 must also be satisfied in an equi-
librated system. Undissociated weak-acids are capable of With this model, a weak-acid has been added to a solution
diffusing freely through microbial membranes and do so until containing a microbe. The internal pH immediately falls and
equilibrium is reached (Stein 1981; Stratford and Rose 1986). an equilibrium is reached such that the internal and external
The equilibrium attained will satisfy Equation 1 and due to pH values are equal; this point is defined as time 0. It is
the free movement of the weak-acid across the membrane, assumed that the diffusion of weak-acid into the cell is infi-
[HAo] [HAi]. The dissociated anion is not freely permeable nitely fast compared with any active proton pumping that may
and is therefore trapped inside the cell when the weak acid occur. The model consists of calculating the accumulation of
dissociates. This means that any difference in the pH between anion coupled to the rate of proton efflux, and then using
the internal and extracellular fluids will also be reflected in this value to calculate the internal pH (Equation 4).
the concentrations of the dissociated anion. The assumption
is made that the dissociated anion cannot leave the cell, and Within the cell HA _ H¦ ¦ A−.
that the attainment of [HAo] [HAi] is faster than any other
process linked to the model. Protons may be pumped from the cytoplasm by the H¦-
ATPase. For every proton removed, one anion remains
From the definition of the equilibrium constant: accumulated. HA then diffuses in through the membrane to
immediately reset the equilibrium. However, as there are now
−log [H¦ − ‘extra’ anions, the equilibrium concentrations required are
o ]−log [Ao ]¦log [HAo]
slightly different and the internal pH alters. From Equation 4,
−
−log [H¦
i ]−log [Ai ]¦log [HAi] (2) at t 0, Equation 5 is obtained, where Q log [Ho¦][Ao−].
[A−
i ](t0)
pH to power active transport. The experimental data from
log pHi,t0 (5) low pH to optimum pH were fitted to half a Gaussian curve.
Q
The bold assumption was made that the feedback inhibition
The rate of proton efflux is equal to the rate of anion accumu- followed the other half of the Gaussian curve. This means
lation. Thus, the change in internal pH can be obtained from that the efficiency of the H¦-ATPase approaches zero at low
Equation 6, where r rate of proton efflux, t time elapsed. pH and also at the expected nominal pH (approximately
pH 7). The fit to the experimental data is portrayed in
0 1
rt
pHi pHto¦log 1¦ −
(6) Fig. 2. The Gaussian expression for the efficiency of the
[A ]
i t0 enzyme is described in Equation 10:
Here, the rate of proton efflux is constant and independent 2
efficiency 10(−1/2(pH−pHp/Gw)) (10)
of pHi (anion accumulation is linear with time). On a longer
time-scale, as the internal pH rises above 7, anion accumu- where pHp peak pH of the Gaussian curve; Gw measure
lation still occurs at the same rate. This is a system lacking of the width of the curve. A Gaussian function with
feedback inhibition to the proton pump. As such this is not pHp 5·5 and Gw 0·487 (parameters from experimental
a realistic situation and the model requires adjustment. The data) was used as the enzyme factor in Equation 7 and mod-
modification involves limiting the rate of proton efflux with elled using the analogous form of Equation 8.
respect to the internal pH. A limiting factor, f, is introduced
into Equation 6:
RESULTS
0 1
rft
pHi pHt0¦log 1¦ (7) Growth inhibition by preservatives
[A−
i ]t0
Yeast inhibition by sulphite, nitrite, sorbic and benzoic acids
The limiting factor must regulate the output of the proton was compared. At pH 4·0, the undissociated fractions of these
pump. For this regulation a pH is defined, the nominal pH, inhibitors were 0·58% SO2, 16·3% nitrous acid, 84·9% sorbic
pHn, at which the effectiveness of the proton pump is zero acid and 61·3% benzoic acid (Table 1). In semi-defined med-
(i.e. stops pumping) and the effectiveness of the proton pump
ium containing increasing concentrations of preservatives,
is also defined at pHi, t 0 (pHo) to be 100%. In this
inhibition of yeast growth was found after 60 h in greater than
scenario, the protons are pumped out as fast as possible to
0·9 mmol l−1 SO2/sulphite, 0·6 mmol l−1 nitrous acid/nitrite,
begin with and then, as the internal pH rises, the pumping
0·8 mmol l−1 sorbic acid/sorbate or 1 mmol l−1 benzoic acid/
slows down until pHn is reached. In this model, change in
benzoate, at pH 4·0. In terms of undissociated acid, this is
internal pH is calculated over short time intervals (Equation
5·3 mmol l−1 SO2, 98 mmol l−1 nitrous acid, 613 mmol l−1
8), and the changes in pH summed to give the internal pH
(Equation 9).
6 0 17
r pHn−pHi
DpHi log 1¦ (8) 100
[A ] pHn−pHo
−
i o
90
pHi pHo¦S DpHi (9)
Percentage enzyme activity
80
70
Modelling the H+-ATPase function. To obtain a realistic
60
model, the in vivo rate of H¦-ATPase activity with respect
to pH should be used as the limiting factor. The efficiency 50
of H¦-ATPase with respect to pH is known from exper- 40
imental work (Willsky 1979; Eraso and Gancedo 1987). At low 30
pH (³4·5), the enzyme was sluggish but achieved optimal
20
performance at pH 5·5 (100% activity). At pH 7, it was shown
to have 70% of optimum activity. Tests were carried out 10
using isolated enzymes or membrane preparations. The work 0
by Willsky (1979) gives activity at pH 10 which is obviously 3 4 5 6 7 8
biologically unrealistic. In these tests, the enzyme lacked pH
normal feedback inhibition mechanisms, and the operation of Fig. 2 Gaussian fit of the pH profile of the plasma-membrane
the H¦-ATPase would cease at some nominal pH because of H¦-ATPase (-----), based on the experimental data (Ž) of
feedback inhibition, except for enzyme used to maintain a Willsky (1979)
benzoic acid or 679 mmol l−1 sorbic acid. Clearly, inhibition Modelling microbial response
is not directly related to the concentration of undissociated
If a microbial suspension is placed in a solution of weak-acid
acid in the medium.
preservative, the internal pH will drop as weak-acids are
However, undissociated acid is predicted to diffuse into
freely permeable across microbial membranes. A possible
the cell until the concentration is equal on both sides of the
response to this stress involves the removal of protons and
membrane. If the internal pH, pHi, is maintained by buffering
consequent accumulation of anions. At first sight, raising pHi
at pH 6·75 or restored to this level by proton pumping, the
through use of the H¦-ATPase appears to be a futile, ATP-
degree to which preservatives can be concentrated within the
wasting activity because a higher pHi will cause a further
cell can be calculated for each pH value and preservative
influx of preservative and consequent lowering of pHi.
(Fig. 3). For example, sorbic acid/sorbate at pH 4·75 are in a
However, careful examination of the equilibrium shows that
1:1 ratio (Table 1). Inside the cell at pH 6·75, the ratio is
pHi will not be lowered back to its original position. Proton
1:100. As sorbic acid is at equal concentration on both sides
pumping by the H¦-ATPase will raise the internal pH, albeit
of the membrane, the sorbate anion will be concentrated 100-
slowly and with great expense in terms of ATP. Figure 4
fold within the cell. The overall preservative concentration
models the recovery of pHi in the presence of three con-
outside is 1 ¦ 1, and inside, 1 ¦ 100, giving a concentration
centrations of the sorbic acid preservative, by proton pump-
ratio of 1:50·5.
ing. Recovery is time-dependent on preservative
Figure 3 predicts that at pH 4, sorbate will be concentrated
concentration.
within the cell by ×86, benzoate by ×218, nitrite by ×466
and sulphite by ×585. If inhibition is a consequence of
preservative uptake, then SO2/sulphite should be most effec-
Calculating lag times
tive, followed by nitrous acid/nitrite, and sorbic acid/sorbate,
benzoic acid/benzoate. Inhibitory concentrations of pre- In the presence of a weak acid preservative, the time spent in
servative show nitrous acid/nitrite to be marginally more the lag phase is increased (Table 2). Preliminary evidence
effective than the others on a molar basis. suggests that to enter the exponential growth phase, the
(a) (b)
100 250
Concentration ratio
Concentration ratio
80 200
60 150
40 100
20 50
0 0
4·00 4·25 4·50 4·75 5·00 5·25 5·50 5·75 6·00 6·25 6·50 6·75 4·00 4·25 4·50 4·75 5·00 5·25 5·50 5·75 6·00 6·25 6·50 6·75
External pH External pH
(c) (d)
500 600
Concentration ratio
Concentration ratio
400 500
400
300
300
200
200
100 100
0 0
4·00 4·25 4·50 4·75 5·00 5·25 5·50 5·75 6·00 6·25 6·50 6·75 4·00 4·25 4·50 4·75 5·00 5·25 5·50 5·75 6·00 6·25 6·50 6·75
External pH External pH
Fig. 3 Predicted concentration ratios of preservatives from medium to cytoplasm, based on known proportions of undissociated
acid/anion at each pH value (Table 1). Concentrations are calculated assuming pHi to be 6·75, due either to infinite buffering or to proton
removal. (a) Sorbic acid/sorbate; (b) benzoic acid/benzoate; (c) nitrous acid/nitrite; (d) SO2/sulphite
14
12 y = 1·0001x – 0·0006
2
R = 0·9515
10
Calculated lag/h
8
Fig. 4 Modelling the rise of pHi from pH 3·5 by proton pumping, 0

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14
despite further weak-acid influx. Sorbic acid concentrations
Experimental lag/h
used were 0·5 mmol l−1 (Ž), 1 mmol l−1 (e) and 2 mmol l−1
(R). Time is in arbitrary units. Increased time is required Fig. 5 Scatter plot of calculated and experimentally-determined
(lag phase) to raise pHi with increased preservative concentration lag phases of Saccharomyces cerevisiae X2180–1B
internal pH must be raised above a threshold value (Imai and ameters used to fit the data are those for the H¦-ATPase
Ohno 1995). Increasing the weak-acid concentrations may of Saccharomyces cerevisiae given above (pHp 5·5,
lead to increased lag times because the microbe has to pump Gw 0·489).
out excess protons to achieve the required growth pH. The
time taken to pump out this number is a direct reflection of
Calculating yields
the increased lag time observed. In the model shown here,
the time taken to attain a specific internal pH (the threshold If a microbe uses up energy reserves of ATP and sugars to
pH) would correspond to the end of lag time. combat the effect of a weak-acid preservative, when (or if)
An internal pH of 5·8 was chosen as a reasonable estimate the microbe reaches the threshold internal pH, there will be
of the value for threshold pH. From the experimental results less available for production of biomass. Physiologically, for
(Table 2), the extreme values for lag times were used to set every proton pumped out, one ATP is consumed. This model
the parameters of the Gaussian function. Using this fitted can equate the rate of protons pumped to the accumulation
Gaussian, the time taken to reach an internal pH for a given of anion. Therefore, the amount of anion accumulated over
pH and sorbic acid concentration was calculated (Table 2 and a set time interval reflects the ATP consumed, and therefore
Fig. 5). In the model, the units of time are arbitrary. A should relate to final biomass yield.
correction (re-scaling) factor can be fitted to the time units For this calculation, the Gaussian parameters used for
as was done with the data in Table 2. Experimentally- and the estimation of lag times are applied. However, instead of
theoretically-derived lag times are in reasonable agreement. calculating the time taken to reach a specific internal pH, the
Figure 5 shows the calculated vs experimental data. The par- amount of anion accumulated via proton efflux is calculated
Table 2 Duration of lag phase of Saccharomyces cerevisiae X2180-1B in YEPD containing sorbic acid at various pH values
–—–––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
Sorbic acid
(mmol l−1) pH 3·0 pH 3·3 pH 3·6 pH 3·9 pH 4·2 pH 4·5
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
—
3·0 — — — — — 16400 (20·5)
2·5 — — — — — 13700 (12·4)
2·0 — — — 15600 (16·7) 13600 (11·2) 11000 (6·9)
1·5 — 13700 (17·7) 12800 (12·0) 11700 (10·3) 10200 (5·4) 8300 (5·1)
1·0 9900 (9·9) 9100 (7·8) 8500 (5·6) 7800 (4·7) 6800 (2·7) 5500 (2·9)
0·5 5100 (4·3) 4600 (3·4) 4300 (3·4) 4000 (3·2) 3400 (2·3) 2700 (2·1)
––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––––
—
Lag times were calculated from the model and are expressed in arbitrary time units. Experimental data are shown within brackets and
expressed in hours. Control cultures lacking preservative grew with little or no lag (less than 0·2 h).
for a given time. For this study, yields (mg dry wt l−1) are natively, sorbic acid may be regarded as more toxic than
converted into a percentage yield loss. This normalizes the expected. Secondary toxic actions for sorbic acid have been
data with respect to the control yield. The experimental suggested, inhibiting glycolysis (Azukas et al. 1961) or acting
results and the modelled results are shown in Fig. 6, and on the plasma membrane (Stratford and Anslow 1996, 1998).
demonstrate a good correlation. However, an elongated lag phase did appear to be related to
a weak-acid-type action by sorbic acid (Stratford and Anslow
1996).
DISCUSSION
The model shown here of the changes in internal pH of
Freese et al. (1973) examined the antimicrobial activity of a cells afflicted by weak-acid preservatives are based only on
number of lipophilic weak-acids and noted a similarity of known principles of physical chemistry and a Gaussian
physiological effect on micro-organisms, despite their dis- relationship of H¦-ATPase activity with pH. This demon-
parate chemical structures. Growth was inhibited as was strates that it is entirely feasible to pump protons out of the
active uptake of amino acids, organic acids and phosphate. cell, slowly raising pHi, despite the consequent influx of more
All are likely to have a common cause, namely the lowering weak-acid. This can most easily be explained by the fact that
of the internal pH caused by weak-acids. Weak-acid pre- for any given internal and external pH, there is a defined
servatives have been shown to be concentrated within cells ratio of preservative concentrated in the cell (Fig. 3, Equation
(Kotyk 1962; Macris 1975; Stratford and Rose 1986). As 4). If pHi was raised and excess preservative entered the cell,
protons are released in a 1:1 molar ratio with anions within pushing pHi back to its previous position, more preservative
the cell, the degree of concentration is likely to reflect the would now be within the cell than permitted for this pH
relative toxicity of each preservative, all other factors being and it would no longer be in chemical equilibrium. Some
equal. Here, it is shown that while SO2/sulphite and nitrous preservative must then flow out, allowing pHi to rise a little,
acid/nitrite were predicted to be most potent inhibitors thus restoring equilibrium. Proton pumping is therefore not
(Fig. 3), in practice they showed a similar degree of inhibition a futile activity. This model also demonstrates that, having
to sorbic acid. Clearly, other factors impinge on weak-acid raised the pHi to a level permitting growth, no further proton
toxicity. Sulphite and nitrite may be lost due to oxidation pumping is required. It is therefore unnecessary to postulate
(Hammond and Carr 1976). Sulphite is also known to be continuous pumping and ATP usage throughout growth, as
progressively detoxified by the production of binding com- had previously been suggested (Warth 1988).
pounds during the lag phase (Stratford et al. 1987). Alter- In this model, for convenience, the assumption is made
that there is no buffering capacity within the cell and the pHi
has also been allowed to fall to the external pH, following
the addition of preservative. Optimum buffering is likely at
1·40E–02 pH 4·5–5·5 (Krulwich et al. 1985), and while the pHi may
not fall far, the proton pumping task will remain unaltered.
Calculated anion accumulation/mol l–1
y = 6E–05x + 0·0063
R2 = 0·9214 Internal buffering will release the same number of protons,
1·20E–02
as the pHi is raised again. Thus, this model is likely to
reflect accurately the time taken to raise pHi and thereby, the
1·00E–02 duration of the lag phase.
In addition to prolonging the lag phase, weak-acid pre-
servatives are known to diminish cell yield in batch culture
8·00E–03 (Stratford and Anslow 1996). Experimentally, a relationship
between the duration of the lag phase and the loss of cell
yield can be shown. A good correlation was obtained (Fig. 6)
6·00E–03 between the experimental results and those calculated
assuming that the usage of ATP in proton pumping is
diverted from that used in growth. This gives credence to
4·00E–03
0 20 40 60 80 100 the model and also suggests that any other inhibitory action
Yield loss/(%) by sorbic acid does not involve the expenditure of ATP.
To conclude, using a thermodynamic and kinetic model,
Fig. 6 Scatter plot of experimentally-determined loss of cell yield
of Saccharomyces cerevisiae X2180–1B against calculated it is possible for weak-acid inhibited cells to raise pHi by H¦-
accumulation of anion. It is predicted that each anion ATPase pumping. The time required to remove protons can
accumulated represents expenditure of one ATP in proton be used to predict the duration of the lag phase and the
extrusion. Hence, calculated ATP usage shows a linear calculated ATP expenditure is inversely proportional to
relationship with yield loss experimentally determined biomass yields.
REFERENCES Macris, B.J. (1975) Mechanism of benzoic acid uptake by Saccharo-

myces cerevisiae. Applied Microbiology 30, 503–506.
Azukas, J.J., Costilow, R.N. and Sadoff, H.L. (1961) Inhibition of Neves, L., Pampulha, M.E. and Loureiro-Dias, M.C. (1994) Resist-
alcoholic fermentation by sorbic acid. Journal of Bacteriology 81, ance of food spoilage yeasts to sorbic acid. Letters in Applied
189–194. Microbiology 19, 8–11.
Chichester, D.F. and Tanner, F.W. (1972) Antimicrobial food addi- Rose, A.H. and Pilkington, B.J. (1989) Sulphite. In Mechanisms of
tives. In Handbook of Food Additives 2nd edn, ed. Furia, T.E. pp. Action of Food Preservation Procedures ed. Gould G.W. pp. 201–
115–184. Cleveland, Ohio: CRC Press. 223. London and New York: Elsevier Applied Science.
Cole, M.B. and Keenan, M.H.J. (1987) Effects of weak acids and Smelt, J.P.P.M., Raatjes, G.J.M., Crowther, J.S. and Verrips, C.T.
external pH on the intracellular pH of Zygosaccharomyces bailii,
(1982) Growth and toxin formation by Clostridium botulinum at
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low pH values. Journal of Applied Bacteriology 52, 75–82.
Eklund, T. (1989) Organic acids and esters. In Mechanisms of Action
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membrane ATPase by acid pH during growth. FEBS Letters 224,
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Freese, E., Sheu, C.W. and Galliers, E. (1973) Function of lipophilic
Stratford, M. and Anslow, P.A. (1998) Evidence that sorbic acid
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Hammond, S.M. and Carr, J.G. (1976) The antimicrobial activity of resistance in Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Saccharomycodes
SO2 — with particular reference to fermented and non-fermented ludwigii. Journal of General Microbiology 133, 2173–2179.
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ed. Skinner, F.A. and Hugo, W.B. pp. 89–110. London: Aca- Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Journal of General Microbiology 132, 1–6.
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Overview of Natural Preservatives

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What are some characteristics of Dermosoft 1388?

What are some characteristics of Dermosoft 1388?

OVERVIEW OF

1. Dermosoft 1388 by Dr. Straetmans

2. Geogard ECT by Lonza

3. Geogard Ultra by Lonza

4. Iscaguard PFA by ISCA

5. Lexgard Natural by Inolex

6. Sorbic Acid and Potassium Sorbate as Cosmetic Preservatives

8. Article in Journal of Applied Microbiology: Weak-Acid

The most frequent question we get from members of

This compliation of articles

For specifics on preservatives (dosage, use, pH etc),

We hope this will be useful as a guideline and aid

Rebecca Wright Lise M Andersen

The product line

As a result of our product development Dermosoft® 1388 provides:

Characteristics of Dermosoft® 1388

Appearance Clear, colourless to pale yellow

Recommended dosage 3,0 – 4,0 %

Antimicrobial performance Gram+ Gram- Yeast Mould

pH-range 4,5 - 5,5

Regulatory status Registered in EU, US, Japan

All the microbiological tests are done in an independent external and

Figure 2: Challenge Test with Skin Serum stabilized with 2,25 %

The combination of mild masking agents in a skin friendly and

Handling and storage

Function, Skin Pharmacol Physiol , 2006;19:296–302

Our representatives abroad

Dr. Straetmans Chemische Produkte GmbH · Merkurring 60–62 · D-22143 Hamburg

Geogard® ECT (patented)

Broad Spectrum Preservation System

Key Product Attributes: Recommended Use Level

Personal Care – Geogard® ECT 2

Make-Up Remover Cyclomethicone & Dimethicone &

Ingredient % Test Results

Total 100.00% Initial Challenge Rechallenge Initial Challenge Rechallenge

Lotion (Lot# KKL-1446)

Personal Care – Geogard® ECT 3

Test Results Global Regulatory

© 2015 Lonza Ltd

Personal Care – Geogard® ECT – 11/15

Key Product Benefits:

INCI Name: Gluconolactone & Sodium Ben-

2 Personal Care – Geogard Ultra™ – 3/17

Ingredient %W/W Ingredient % W/W

50% Aqueous Citric acid pH adjuster Cetyl alcohol 2.1%

Preservative 1.5% Geogard Ultra™ Cetearyl alcohol 1.5%

Total 100.00% POE 4 Lauryl Alcohol (Ethosperse® LA-4) 3.1%

Sample# Test Samples Day 0 Day 7 Day 14 Day 28

Personal Care – Geogard Ultra™ – 3/17 3

% Increase in Moisture over Five Days

Bacterial Counts (CFU/gram) 0.5

There is also a moisturization benefit on the skin with the Geogard

4 Personal Care – Geogard Ultra™ – 3/17

Typical Properties Switzerland

Iscaguard® PFA is stable and active over a pH range of Table 35