Indian Journal of Textile Research

Vol. 8, December 1983, pp.105-110

Influence of Yarn and Fabric Properties on Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics

I C SHARMA, SUDEEP MALU, PANKAJ BHOWAN & SURENDER CHANDNA
The Technological Institute of Textiles, Bhiwani 125022
Received 28 May 1983; accepted I December 1983

The effect of different yarn and fabric parameters on the tearing strength of fabrics having plain, 2/2 twill, 3/1 twill and 4-
thread satin weaves and woven using 52' reed and 2/40' polyester-viscose (15/85) warp has been studied. Weft count, weft twist
multiplier and pick level were varied in the plain woven fabrics. It was observed that with increase in yarn fineness, twist
multiplier and pick level, there is a decrease in tearing strength. The effect of yarn withdrawal force, crimp level elongation,
weight/m2 and cover factor has also been studied. Increase in float length increases !earing strength, which is minimum in the
case of plain weave and maximum in the case of 4-thread satin.

Generally, tensile strength is taken as the criterion for yarns of the same equivalent count are used. He further
predicting the serviceability of a cloth. Taylor stated that tear strength is directly proportional to
disagreed with this view and observed that in contrast yarn strength.
to tensile strength, tearing strength is directly involved Morton and Turner4 observed that increase in the
in the assessment of serviceability. Tearing is much twist factor of component threads increases the tear
more a common mode of failure than fall in tensile strength of fabrics because of increase in thread
strength in actual wear. Tear strength indicates the strength and decrease in yarn diameter, the latter
ability of a fabric structure to utilize the properties of allowing a greater degree of freedom to the yarn.
component yarns. The results are dependent on those Backer and Tanenhaus5 and O'Brien and Weiner3
very factors which differentiate a fabric from its showed that tear strength increases with increase in
component yarn, the geometry of woven fabric making weave factor, which they defined as the number of
the greatest contribution to the stress pattern. In other threads per repeat divided by the number of
words, tear strength is more characteristic of the interlacements in the same repeat. Taylor 7 introduced
material in fabric form than in yarn form and cannot a similar factor in his theoretical treatment of rip
be determined if any of the sets of threads, namely strength.
warp and weft, is removed. Tear strength refers to a
response to non-uniform tensile stresses, causing a Materials and Methods
progressive tensile failure of cross yarns along a line, Thirteen samples were prepared from a 15/18
thread by thread or in small groups of threads. polyester viscose blended yarn. Out of these, three
Krook and Fox 1 studied the effect of fabric count samples were of 2/325, 2/365 and 2/405 counts, three of
(both warp and weft ways) on the frequency of waves in 3.1,3.4 and 3.7 twist multipliers (TM) and four of 2/365
the chart and on the tear strength of fabrics. They weft count with 3.1 TM but different weaves, viz. plain,
observed that increase in fabric count in the test 2/2 twill, 3/1 twill and 4-thread satin. In the remaining
direction has little effect on tear strength; any three samples, three different pick levels, viz. 44, 50 and
reduction in the number of yarns in the del resulting 55, were chosen keeping the other three parameters
from the decreased del size is almost compensated by constant. The warp count of 2/405 and 3.4 TM was
increase in the number of threads/in. However, they kept constant in all the cases.
suggested that the strength of a fabric could be Prior to testing, all the samples were conditioned in a
improved through (i) decrease in fabric count, (ii) standard atmosphere (RH, 65% and temp. 27 ± 2eC)
increase in yarn strength, (iii) use of smoother yarn, for 48 hr. Standard test methods as per Indian
and (iv) use of open weave. Standard specifications6 were used to determine the
According to Millard 2 , the factors affecting the tear yarn and fabric characteristics. For yarn testing, skeins
strength are : (i) strength of yarn, (ii) smoothness of of 120 yd were prepared and the average count was
yarn, (iii) number of thick places, and (iv) number of tested on Knowle's balance. Yarn crimp values for
yarn slubs. O'Brien and Weiner3 pointed out the warp and weft were measured using a test length of 20
advantage of plying in that the use of two-fold yarns cm on Eureka crimp tester, Type FY -07, applying 109
gives higher tearing strength than that when single tension. Single yarn strength and elongation at break

105
 INDIAN J TEXT. RES., VOL. 8, DECEMBER 1983

were measured on Instron tensile tester. The cross- from the transverse cut and all the crossing threads in
head speed and the ratio between cross-head speed and the remaining portion of the specimen were unravelled,
chart speed were kept as 110 mm/min and 1.1:1 so that the length of each of the freed longitudinal
respectively. Clamping length of 100mm was used and yarns from the marked line was 1.5 in, the rear end of
the fun scale load was adjusted to 10 kg on Instron the specimen in the fabric form being already gripped
tensile tester. by a pair of fabric jaws. The yarn clamp, initially being
The single rip test method was used for determining separated from the jaws by a distance of 2 in, was then
the tearing strength of the fabric. The rip test consists moved apart until the said yarn was completely
in mak~ngan initial longitudinal cut part way down the withdrawn from the strip; the force required to remove
centre of a strip and then pulling apart the two tails the yarn was recorded in the autographic device. The
thus fdrmed, so that the tear proceeds through the average values for all the tests were calculated from 10
uncut portion of the specimen. The testing machine observations made for both warp and weft directions.
used for this purpose may be an inertialess (CRE) )
machine or a pendulum type (CRn instrument. Results and Discussion
Various dimensions have been used by different Effect of weft count on tearing strength-The effect
workers. We have, however, accepted the ASTM of weft count on tearing strength was studied for three
specifications as shown in Fig. 1. plain woven fabrics having weft counts 2/365, 2/325
In CRE/CR T machine, one tail of the specimen and 2/405 • Data on the tearing strength and count (Fig.
should ,be clamped in the upper jaw and the other one 2.)indicate that when the fabric is ruptured in the weft
in the lower jaw (Fig. 1b) in such a manner that the cut direction, its tearing strength decreases with increase in
edge o~the tail is in a straight line joining the centres of weft count. This may be attributed to the strength of
the clamps, the two tails presenting opposite faces to the thread, because with increase in the fineness of the
the operator. The autographic device attached to the yarn, the number of fibres in the cross-section
instrurv.ent indicates a succession of peak values of decreases and this contributes to lowering of the
tensions corresponding to the successive rupture of breaking strength of the yarn. Thus, with increase in
yarn in the course of tear. counts, a corresponding decrease in weft breaking
Instron tensile tester was used for the single rip tear strength is observed and this ultimately results in
test. The cross-head speed and the ratio between CroSS- decrease in the tearing strength of the fabric in weft-
head speed and chart speed were kept as 100 mm/min wise direction. The statistical relation derived for this
and 2:1 respectively. Clamping length of 100 mm was action gives the value of correlation factor as 0.885,
used and the full scale load was kept as 10 kg. The indicating that the observations made are true and the
average tear strength of each sample was found from weft count is closely related to fabric tearing strength.
five observations for each sample. The value of warp-wise tearing strength, on the other
For determining the yarn withdrawal force, keeping hand, increases with increase in weft count, because
parity with Taylor's experiment, a strip of fabric (5 in the breaking strength of the weft in all the three cases is
long and 3 in wide) was taken. leaving 2 in from one greater than that of the warp due to the coarser weft
end of the longer sides to allow the specimen to be count having more number of fibres in its crass-
gripped by the fabric jaws, and another 0.5 in for a section.
clearance from the jaw line, a transverse cut was made The above finding is in agreement with that of
across .the width of the specimen. The specimen was Turners, who found that the higher single thread
then rv.arked across its width at a distance of 1 in strength, usually brought about by the use of coarser

--t- -------
4'4
&0, WEAVE-PLAIN
t •1
4.n
JAW tI
2in
2.n j.--3In--t
Bin
...•lr·5inJAW
( b) ••. 4·2
'" WARP COUrvT- 2/365
TJAW
(a) T~AR
...• 11·5inr-
• 1 4·0 ""'.
.
-Sample preparation scheme
106 E ;::
.........
1 I
u~ 3,8 ~7'0
z
'"' 3·6
<
~
:n ~"- ---'Q,-------- -- .
\i? 3'4 ~
g cr
w 3·2 U16.0
•...

3-0

2/325 2/365 2/405

WEFT COUNT

Fig. 2--EfTect of weft count on tearing strength (0-0-0) and weft

elongation (0... 0... 0)
 SHARMA et at.: INFLUENCE OF YARN & FABRIC PROPERTIES ON TEARING STRENGTH OF FABRICS

yarn, causes increase in tearing strength. He also the yarn (Fig. 3) and this results in decrease in the
pointed out that even a slight increase in coarseness thread breaking strength. As observed earlier, increase
might produce a large increase in the rip test, because in the thread breaking strength increases the fabric
the breakage occurs thread by thread in this test. tearing strength and consequently decrease in the
Increase in the coarseness of the weft count increases thread breaking strength (with increase in TM) causes
the tearing strength of the fabric in the warp-wise a corresponding decrease in the tearing strength of the
direction, because the thread breaking strength of the fabric.
weft is comparatively higher than that of the warp due Secondly, increase in TM decreases the area of
to the greater number of fibres in weft cross-section, cross-section of the yarn and thus increases the yarn-
whereas increase in weft count decreases the tearing to-fabric friction. Due to this, the force needed for the
strength of the fabric in the weft-wise direction due to withdrawal of yarn from the fabric is increased and this
the decrease in the number of fibres in weft cross- results in decrease in the tearing strength of the fabric.
section. Considering all the facts, it may be concluded that
It is observed from Fig. 2 that with increase in weft decrease in tearing strength (with increase in TM) is
count, weft elongation decreases and this relationship due to decrease in elongation and yarn breaking
is linear. Also, the relationship is statistically strength and increase in the yarn-to-fabric friction.
significant, having the value of coefficient of Fig. 3 shows a close relationship between TM and
correlation (r) as 0.81. The effect of weft TM on the tearing strength with the value of coefficient of
elongation of the threads is shown in Fig. 3. It is correlation as - 0.842.
observed that with increase in weft TM, weft Effect of yarn extensibility-Yarn extensibility plays
elongation decreases. The values of weft elongation are an important role in determining the tear behaviour of
38, 37 and 36 mm for weft TM of 3.1, 3.4 and 3.7 a fabric. The number of yarns in the ladder of a del at
respectively. The magnitude of extensibi1ity depends the tear locus depends upon the extent of yarn
upon the compactness of threads. With increase in the extension. With increase in elongation of the yarn, the
compactness of thread, the elongation of the thread active number of threads in del increases and hence
decreases. Since the TM changes from 3.1 to 3.7, the contributes more to the system in supporting a higher
compactness of weft threads increases and con- load. To better understand the matter, we focus our
sequently the extensibility of threads decreases. The attention on Fig. 4 to mark out three values of weft
correlation between TM and elongation has been tearing strength for three different weft counts, viz.
found to be linear and statistically significant, the 2/325, 2/365 and 2/405, while warp count is constant
value of coefficient of correlation being -0.99. These (2/405). The values of tearing strength are 7.29, 7.16
results are in agreement with the findings of Weiner 3 . and 6.56 kg for weft elongation of 40,37 and 34 mm
Effect of weft TM on tearing strength-To study the respectively. In the first case, the weft thread count was
effect of twist multiplier on the tearing strength of the 2/325, which led to higher extensibility of weft threads.
fabric, three different TMs were selected. It is observed Consequently, the number of threads in del increased
from Fig. 3 that increase in weft TM decreases the and hence contributed more to the system in
weft-wise tearing strength of the fabric when the warp supporting the higher load. In the second case, where
particulars are kept constant. Hamburger 9 also the weft count was increased to the level of 2/365 , the
reported that the most important factor which
influences the tearing strength of the fabric is its WEAVE - PLAIN
surface or yarn-to-fabric friction. Increase in TM WEFT COUNTS - 2/32' ,2/36' ,2/4cT
7'2 .
causes a corresponding decrease in the elongation of

3,8 r 8·0
o -__
V:~!_T COUNT - 21365 I7'0
•...
-"0- _ ~
zw
I•...
a:
~
Z
•...
<Il 6,8
LU
a: ~
z
•...
<f) C(
<t
~ 7,0 W
z •...6·6
cr
<t

3'2L~
3·1 3-4 3,7
WEFT TWIST MULTIPLIER
6'4
3-4 3,6 3,8 4,0
WEFT ELONGATION, CrT!
Fig. 3-Effect of weft twist multiplier on tearing strength (0-0-0)
and elongation (0 ... 0... 0) Fig. 4-Relationship between weft elongation and tearing strength

107
 INDIAN J TEXT. RES., VOL. 8, DECEMBER 1983

7·5.
extensibility of weft threads decreased, which resulted WEAVE - PLAI N
0'
in a lower value of tearing strength. In the third case, WEFT COUNTS-2/32s,2/36s,2/40s

the weft count was further increased to 2/40s, which ~.

:I:
I-
7-01

led to further decrease in the extensibility of weft oZ

w
threads. This further decrease in weft thread a:
I-
<f1 6·5
extensibility reduced the number of threads in the del, oz
which in turn reduced the tearing strength. Hence, it a:
..
may be concluded that with increase in the extensibility ~ 6·0
6'0 7,0 8,0 9,0
of threads, tearing strength increases. fits: BREAKING STRENGTH OF
WEFT /WARP WITHDRAWAL FORCE
Effec,t of withdrawalforce on thread strength-Data
on the tearing strength and the ratio between the Fig. 5-Relationship between f/f, and tearing strength

breaking strength of weft (f) and the withdrawal force

9·0
of wefti(f.) are presented in Fig. 5. It is observed that t
tearing/strength increases as the ratio off/fs increases. I
This is in agreement with the finding of O'Brien and G85
z
Weine~3, that breaking strength divided by the pull- w
a:
l-
out force for the opposite set of thread is directly I,/)

8,0
propor,tional to the tearing strength, because with <!>
z
ultimate increase in the yarn withdrawal force, the del ..
ex:

w
limits itself within a smaller area and depth, bringing I- 7.5
w
fewer yarns into action. Obviously, the supporting I,/)

capacity of the del system is reduced and a lower ~I

o
tearing strength is recorded . :i 7,0
..
Effect of crimp on tearing strength-It is observed
from Fig. 6 that the crimp has a linear relationship with
the tearing strength of the fabric with the value of
~
6·5 o \
coefficient of correlation as -0.99. This is in
6,0
agreement with the finding ofWeiner3 , who reported 2 4 6 8 10
that the crimp of the threads in a cloth causes a CRIMP, .,.

reduction in the case of slippage that arises from a Fig. 6-Relationship between crimp level and warp-wise tearing.'
strength
higher crimp because of the yarn bent to a greater
extent. With a lower crimp, the area of contact among
WEAVE-PLAIN
the threads would be smaller and the frictional ~ ~ 10·0
resistance to the movement would be less. i:o 60
WEFT
WARP COUN
COUNTT - 2/365
2 /L.Os

Increase in pick level increases the crimp level (Fig. zw 0' 3·0
7) and thereby the elongation also increases. Increase a:
I- ~
<f1 ~
a:
in elongation becomes the root cause of decrease in -'-0
tearing strength, as stated earlier. Another factor o""
a:
IU 8,0
5·01-
..
w
influencing the crimp is the weave. The number of I-
times!the weft changes its face in I in also affects the 70
46 50 55
crimp level. The weft in a plain woven fabric changes PICKS/in
its face for the maximum number of times and thus has Fig. 7-EfTect of picks/in on crimp level (0-0-0) and tearing
the highest value of crimp, while reverse is the case with strength (0 ... 0 ... 0)
4-thread satin. Due to this, the withdrawal force of
thread, or the thread pulling out force, is maximum in crossing points or frictional points per unit area of the
the case of plain weave and this results in a lower value fabric. With increase in pick level, cloth cover increases
of fabric tearing strength compared that for 4-thread and thus the fabric ahead of del jams earlier in the
satin. It may be concluded that the tearing strength of direction of tear and the extent of yarn movement in
fabric has a linear relationship with the crimp level. that direction is lesser. This causes the del to comprise
Effect of fabric density-The effect of change in fewer yarns, resulting in a fall in the tearing strength.
fabric density (pick/in) on the warp tear strength is also This effect may also be explained on the basis of the
shown in Fig. 7. The pick levels used were 46, 50 and cover factor. As the pick level increases in a woven
55, while the ends/in was constant (52) in all the three fabric, its cover factor increases (Fig. 8). The computed
cases. It is observed that increase in fabric density value of coefficient of correlation between tear
along the tear direction increases the number of strength and fabric density across the direction of tear

108
 SHARMA et a/.: INFLUENCE OF YARN& FABRICPROPERTIES ON TEARING STRENGTH OF FABRICS

is negative. This finding is in agreement with that of WEAVE - PLAIN 0

Backer10, who reported that the tearing strength of a WARP COUNT-2/40s
9.0~WE FT COUNT -2/36 s
fabric is closely related to the reciprocal of the cover
factor. '"
o
oX o
Effect of weight on tearing strength-The :x:
• 8,0
t-
relationship between weight/m2 (warp-way and weft- el
Z
way) and tearing strength is shown in Fig. 9. The LU
a:
relationship is seen to be linear. It may be concluded tii 7·0
el
that with increase in weight/m2 or weight per unit area Z
a:
...
of the fabric, there is a corresponding increase in the LU

t- 6.0
tearing strength of the fabric as well as in the weft
direction. This finding is in agreement with that of
Ganatra and Munshi 11 .
Effect of weave on tearing strength-While studying 0·048 0,050 0-052 0,054
RECIPROCAL OF CLOTH COVER FACTOR
the effect of various weaves, it was observed that the
Fig. 8-Relationship betweenreciprocalof cloth cover factor and
tearing strength of the fabric increases with increase in
tearing strength
float length. This is in conformity with the findings of
Hamburger9, who found that a fabric having longer x
9·0
floats generally has a higher tearing strength than the a
one having shorter floats. He also observed that plain
woven fabrics exhibit the minimum tearing strength
due to the greater number of intersections in the weave.
Apparently, the plain intersection provides better
binding than that obtained by the passage of yarn
merely from one end of the cloth to the other; the result
is presumely due to the greater mutual yarn pressure
which must exist at the plain intersection. 128 130 132 134 136 138
In a weave with many crossovers/in, the gripping WEIGHT 1m2
section between the warp and weft threads has been Fig.9-EfTect of weighton warp-wisetearingstrength(0-0-0) and
found to be high and thus increases the ratio between weft-wisetearing strength (x-x-x)
the yarn withdrawal force and the yarn breaking
gpullout
7.93
18
168.34
7.16
8.54
4-Thread
14
8.78
9.35
Weave
force
Weft
kg
6.88
50 Weft
8.41
tearing
tearingW36
10
gPlain
strength
Warp
3/1
1/1
2/2
Table kstrength
Right8
arp
12
I-Effect pullout
of Weave on Tearing Strength
strength in opposite direction over what it would have
I2No. hand
satin twill force
g 43
been for a fabric with longer floats. This.increase in the
Sample
pullout force resulting from the weave reduces
considerably the tear strength of the fabric (for a given
yarn strength and texture). Thus, the plain weave has
been found to be weaker than 2/2 twill, 3/1 twill and 4-
thread satin. A looser weave with longer floats also
allowed a greater trellis type distortion. The
magnitude of the tearing strength also depends upon
the type of material used, yarn construction and other
'cloth parameters, as discussed earlier. The 2/2 twill has
higher tearing strength than 3/1 twill, because it has
lower value for the pullout force. The weave affects the elongation is followed by increase in the weft-wise
tearing strength of the fabric, because it is closely tearing strength of the fabric.
related to the float length and the pullout force, which (2) With increase in pick level, there is a
have direct influence on the tearing strength of a fabric corresponding decrease in the warp-wise tearing
(Table I). strength.
(3) The tearing strength is directly proportional to
Conclusions the thread breaking strength.
(I) Increase in weft count causes a corresponding (4) The tearing strength increases with decrease in
decrease in the weft-wise tearing strength due to the the thread pulling out force.
less number of fibres in the cross-section. Increase in (5) Increase in float length increases the tearing
weft twist multiplier decreases proportionately the strength, thus giving a high value of tearing strength in
weft-wise tearing strength of the fabric. Increase in the case of 4-thread satin as compared to plain or twill

109
 INDIAN J TEXT. RES., VOL. 8, DECEMBER 1983

structures. The tearing strength of 2/2 twill is higher publish this paper. They are also thankful to the
than that of 3/1 twill, as the withdrawal force for 3/1 personnel of Bhiwani Textile Mills, Bhiwani, for their
twill is·higher. cooperation.
(6) Increase in crimp decreases the tearing strength
of the fabric. References
(7) The tearing strength of the fabric is dependent I Krook C M & Fox K R, Text Res J, 15 (1945) P389.
upon the inter-yarn spacing or cover factor. 2 Millard F J, J Text Inst, 38 (1947) T419.
3 O'Brien W E & Weiner L I, Text Res J, 24 (1954) P241.
(8) With increase in wt/m2 of a fabric, tearing
4 Morton W E & Turner A J, J Text Inst, 19 (1928) T189.
strength increases in both warp and weft directions. 5 Backer S & Tanenhaus S J, Text Res J, 21 (1951) P635.
(9) The ratio of single thread strength to the pullout 6 Indian Standard specifications IS:2693 (Indian Standards
force for the opposite set of threads is directly related Institution, New Delhi).
to the tearing strength. 7 Taylor H M, J Text Inst, 50 (1959) Tl61.
8 Turner A J, J Text Inst, 11 (1920) 181.
9 TeixeiraN A,Platt M M & HamburgerW J, Text ResJ,25(1955)
Acknowledgement 838.
The authors express their thanks to Prof. R.C.D. 10 Backer S, Text Res J, 22 (1952) 435.
Kaushik, Director TIT, Bhiwani, for permission to II Ganatra S R & Munshi V G, Indian J Text Res,S (1980) 108.

110