Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 39, September 2014, pp. 221-229

Seam slippage and seam strength behavior of elastic woven fabrics under
static loading
Rostam Namiranian1, Saeed Shaikhzadeh Najar 1,a, Seyed Mohammad Etrati1 & Albert M Manich2
1
Department of Textile Engineering, Amirkabir University of Technology, Tehran, Iran
2
Department of Chemistry and Technology of Surfactants, CSIC, Institute of Advanced Chemistry of Catalonia (iQAC), Barcelona, Spain
Received 25 September 2013; revised received and accepted 1 January 2014

Effects of fabric extensibility and stitch density on seam slippage and strength behavior of elastic woven fabrics have
been studied. Six fabric samples with different values of elasticity have been woven by changing the number of elastic core-
spun cotton yarns and normal ring cotton yarns in the weft direction and then finished for sewing process. The samples are
sewn with three stitch density levels (4, 5 and 6 stitches/cm) in warp direction and one stitch density level (5 stitches/cm) in
weft direction. Fabric tensile properties, seam slippage load and seam strength have been measured and analyzed both in
warp and weft directions. The results show that seam slippage and strength properties can be well explained in terms of
fabric tensile properties. In general, increase in fabric extensibility leads to decrease in seam slippage load and seam strength
in weft direction. In warp direction, seam slippage load also decreases with increase in fabric weft extensibility, whereas
seam strength remains invariant. The results also reveal that the increase in stitch density results in a higher seam slippage
load and strength value.

Keywords: Elastic woven fabrics, Fabric extensibility, Seam slippage, Seam strength, Static loading

1 Introduction based on fabric geometry and related parameters to

Seams are widely used in clothing industry for calculate the amount of seam slippage. It was
joining different pieces of fabrics to construct the observed that the amount of seam slippage increases
garment with desired properties according to with increasing yarn-to-yarn friction, contact angle
costumers' needs. The characteristics of a properly between threads (fabric geometry), the number of
constructed seam are its strength, elasticity, durability, weft yarn in fabric, stitch density and yarn flexural
stability and appearance, which depend on the seam rigidity. Miguel et al.4 performed seam slippage test in
type and the stitches per unit length of the seam, the both warp and weft directions in a wide range of
thread tension and the seam efficiency of the fabric1. woolen and worsted fabrics. They found that the
Garments and consequently seams are constantly conventional variables that impact seam slippage
under different kinds of stresses, normally in different most seriously are opacity, polyamide content, finish
directions, according to body movement which is type and cover factor. Yildirim5 constructed a system
covered by garment. When the seam is under some based on a non-linear regression mathematical model
transverse strain, then displacement (called seam to predict the seam opening properties of woven seat
slippage) of the stitch relative to fabric layers can fabrics. The author found that fabric physical
occur2. In severe cases, applied load may lead to properties especially weft density play a more
rupture but before seam failure occurs, enough yarn important role in the seam opening behavior than the
slippage (filling yarns shifting over warp yarns or vice stitch density for these especial kinds of fabrics.
versa) develops to render the garment unusable, Malciauskiene et al.6 investigated the effect of weave
because such failure is not readily repairable by type on seam slippage of unbalanced fabrics. It was
seaming. Therefore, measuring resistance to slippage found that seam slippage is influenced significantly
of yarns in woven fabrics is of great importance in by the weave type. In another work, they also studied
quality control of garment3. the influence of weave, warp density and weft density
Different aspects of seam slippage have been on seam slippage of wool fabrics7. They concluded
investigated. Galuszynski2 developed a model mainly that the fabric weave and weft setting parameters have
a substantial influence on the slippage resistance of
—————
a
Corresponding author. yarns at a seam in woven fabrics, which can be
E-mail: [email protected] predicted by a two-factor polynomial second order
222 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2014

equation. Pasayev et al.8 studied the techniques for woven fabrics. In particular, Gurarda1 investigated the
decreasing the seam slippage in chenille fabrics. They seam performance of PET/Nylon-elastane woven
found that fabric weft density, the number of fabrics considering weft density, weave type and
interlaced chenille yarns over warp and stitch density sewing thread as the variables. The results revealed
are significantly affected by the seam slippage of that the increase in sewing thread size enhances the
these fabrics as well as sewing direction. They also seam strength and seam efficiency. It was also shown
supported their experimental results by developing a that using elastane in the weft direction of the fabrics
theoretical model discussing distribution of energies promotes seam performance comparing with the warp
applied to sewn structure under tensile loads9. It was direction, while using elastic yarns in weft direction
revealed that the increase in the fabric layers sewn prevented the differences. In a further study, Gurarda
together would lead to decrease in seam slippage. and Meric15 investigated the slippage and grinning
Seam strength as a consequence of seam slippage behavior of lockstitch seams on elastic woven fabrics
growth is another important parameter of sewn under cycling loading. Two different fabric weave
structure performance from quality control point of types (twill and plain), two different weft densities
view. Brain10 tried to relate stitch strength properties to (26 and 29 weft/cm) and two different elastane yarns
that of threads by imposing some corrections in (PET/elastane air-covered and twisted yarn) were
minimum loop strength theory previously introduced taken as samples for the experiments. The results
by Burtonwood and Chamberlain11. It was concluded showed that seam slippage and grinning increase with
that although the corrected model had a relative good the decrease in weft density and increase in fabric
agreement with experimental measurements; further extensibility.
studies of the fabric contribution to seam strength need It can be seen that there are a few studies about
to be done. Tsui et al.12,13 published a generalized different aspects of seam performance properties of
mathematical and physical model particularly elastic woven fabrics1,15. It can also be concluded
considering the effect of angle of bias (where the yarns from previous researches that there is no systematic
in the fabric run at an angle to the seam line) to explain research available on the seam slippage and strength
the relations between seam strength and parameters of elastic woven fabrics produced with a
such as angle of bias, gauge length, width of seam, predetermined elasticity values at a wide range of
fabric type and fabric construction. Amirbayat14 levels. Therefore, a need was felt to investigate more
investigated the seam strength of a wider range of deeply about seam behavior of these kinds of fabrics
orientations, 66 different seams at 10° intervals sewn with different stitch densities under tensile
including the 45° bias, i.e. (0-0), (0-10)…, (10-10)…, loads. The present paper was aimed at studying the
(10-45)…, and so on by two different methods, namely effects of fabric extensibility and also stitch density
a simple tensile test and a grab test. The results on seam slippage and strength of elastic woven
revealed that seams sewn with similar plies, except at fabrics.
45° which has the least strength among all samples,
2 Materials and Methods
have higher grab strengths than seams of different ply
2.1 Sample Preparation
properties. He also showed that incompatibility of ply Woven fabrics with different elasticity along weft
strength has a negative effect on seam strength in both direction were used for the study. Warp yarns were
cases of seam failure. cotton ring-spun yarns with linear density of 15 tex
Nowadays there is an increasing trend of using (40 Ne) and twist factor of 3560 (αtex). Two different
elastic fabrics, known as 'stretch fabrics' to produce yarns were used in fabric weft direction, namely
garment not only with specific applications such as normal cotton ring-spun yarns and elastic core-spun
swimwear, sportswear, and lace but also for everyday yarns with the same linear density of 20 tex (30 Ne)
clothing. With stretch fabric, comfort is achieved by and twist factor of 4160 (αtex). Elastic core-spun yarns
reducing garment resistance imposed on the body, were produced on a ring frame machine by using
through increased fabric 'give'. This also means that spandex filament of 44.4 dtex as the core and cotton
the garments can be cut more neatly and will conform as the sheath of yarns. Draw ratio value of spandex
better to the body3. filament (ratio of front roller linear speed to that of
In recent years, there have been limited research filament feed roller) was kept constant at 3.5 during
studies on the seam slippage behavior of elastic spinning process for all yarn samples. All of fabric
 NAMIRANIAN et al.: SEAM SLIPPAGE & SEAM STRENGTH BEHAVIOR OF FABRIC 223

samples were woven with plain weave type on Sulzer densities along weft and warp directions. Thus, final
G6100 rapier weaving loom with six different weft finished fabric samples were obtained with 27 cm-1 and
layouts (Table 1). 47 cm-1 density values in weft and warp directions
To quantify the fabric elasticity in weft direction, respectively. In this way, the final fabric sample
elastane percentage ( E.P ) was calculated for each thickness and weight were measured as 0.28 mm and
samples using the following equation and the results 124 g/m2 respectively.
are given in Table 1: To investigate the effect of stitch density together
with fabric elasticity on seam slippage and strength
a Tex
E.P = ( ).( e ) ×100 … (2) behavior, fabric samples were sewn with three different
a+b Text stitch densities (4, 5 and 6 stitches/cm) parallel to warp
direction. Samples were sewn only with the stitch
where a is the number of core-spun yarns in weft density of 5 parallel to fabric weft direction. For this
direction layout; b, the number of normal spun yarns purpose, JUKI sewing machine (DDL-8700-7) with
in weft direction layout; Texe, the linear density (tex) three-ply Gütermann M403 sewing thread of 45 tex
of elastane filament (44.4 dtex); and Text, the linear (100% polyester) and twist of 550 T/m was used to sew
density (tex) of weft yarns (20 tex). Schematic views samples with SSa-1 seam and 301 stitch types.
of fabric structures are shown in Fig. 1. The sewing speed was set at 2000 stitches/min for
Fabric samples were processed using the same all samples. Also to obtain balance stitches, some test
dyeing and finishing procedures. The tension in samples were sewn and the lengths of both needle and
weaving and finishing processes were adjusted in such bobbin threads extracted from 4 inches of fabric were
a way to produce fabric samples with identical measured and by changing the thread tensions both
Table 1—Fabric samples characteristics lengths of needle and bobbin threads were kept
equal10. The needle number was 90/14 and for sewing
Sample Yarn layouts in weft direction Elastane
coding percentage each sample group, a new needle was used to avoid
any periodic defects due to needle point damage.
C Elastic ring core-spun yarns 22.20
3C1N 3 elastic ring core-spun yarns +1 ring normal 16.65 2.2 Fabric Tensile Testing
spun yarn In this study, the hypothesis of seam tensile
2C1N 2 elastic ring core-spun yarns +1 ring normal 14.80 behavior analysis for a specific stitch density is based
spun yarn on fabric tensile properties. So, fabric tensile behavior
1C1N 1 elastic ring core-spun yarn +1 ring normal 11.10 was measured firstly for all samples in weft and warp
spun yarn directions in terms of Young’s modulus, breaking
1C2N 1 elastic ring core-spun yarn +2 ring normal 7.40 elongation percentage and tensile strength. Young’s
spun yarns
modulus of fabrics was measured as the slope of the
N Ring normal spun yarns 0
steepest linear region of fabric load-elongation curves
from the start point of tensile test up to the end of test
procedure16. Also to quantify fabric elasticity, a similar
factor to FAST index (E10017), here named as fabric
extensibility, was defined as the fabric extension at the
load of 100 N/m in the weft direction.
For fabric tensile testing, a universal tensile machine
(Instron 5500R) was used. Tensile properties of fabrics
were measured according to ASTM D 5034(2001)
standard. Test speed was set in such a way that fabric
failure occurs within 20±3 s. Average values of fabric
tensile properties are listed in Table 2. Figure 2 shows
average fabric stress-elongation curves for fabric
samples in weft and warp directions.
2.3 Seam Slippage and Strength Testing
Seam slippage of samples was evaluated as the
Fig. 1—Schematic views of woven fabric structures required load for a specific amount of slippage using
224 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2014

Table 2—Tensile properties of fabrics in warp and weft directions

Sample Fabric Tensile strength Breaking elongation Young’s modulus
extensibility, % N % N/mm
Warp Weft Warp Weft Warp Weft
C 16.45 325.94 212.73 11.27 42.62 47.75 18.64
(0.23) (10.44) (14.19) (0.14) (1.44) (2.42) (1.14)
3C1N 15.84 343.34 228.49 9.73 41.32 48.58 20.28
(0.50) (11.50) (8.46) (0.23) (0.96) (2.20) (0.60)
2C1N 14.91 336.14 230.55 8.97 40.72 51.90 20.40
(0.18) (9.95) (11.13) (0.33) (0.61) (2.06) (0.52)
1C1N 14.19 341.00 226.63 9.62 39.16 54.35 20.72
(0.44) (9.77) (6.76) (0.53) (0.73) (1.59) (0.72)
1C2N 13.59 347.50 248.39 9.17 38.71 53.47 22.43
(0.24) (5.26) (11.63) (0.1) (0.85) (0.58) (0.72)
N 10.52 336.70 254.61 10.03 32.38 55.03 25.78
(0.29) (5.01) (13.43) (0.25) (0.75) (0.88) (0.94)

Values in parentheses are standard deviation of measurements.

Fig. 3—Calculation of seam slippage load

Fig. 2—Average diagrams of stress-elongation curves for fabric seam slippage load was calculated directly on Instron
samples in weft and warp directions 5500R, universal tensile machine. All the tests were
done at the speed of 50 mm/min. Also the values of
fixed seam opening method. Sample dimensions and seam strength were recorded as the required load for
tensile apparatus setting were set exactly according to failure of sewing zone according to ASTM D 1683
British Standard [BS EN ISO 13936-1(2004)]. (2004). Test speed was set as 50 mm/min. All the tests
Sewn samples were cut into two pieces, with and were conducted under the standard conditions at
without seam. Both pieces were tested on the tensile 22±2oC and 65±2 % R.H. The average values of seam
testing machine and their load-elongation diagrams slippage and seam strength in warp direction are shown
were plotted on the same coordinates. To calculate in Table 3. Also, the average values of seam slippage
seam slippage load, the distance between two and strength loads in weft direction for different values
diagrams (A) was measured at a load of 5N (Fig. 3). of stitch densities are listed in Table 4.
Value of A was added to pre-defined amount of
slippage and the corresponding load to this distance 3 Results and Discussion
was reported as the seam slippage load. Here, due to IBM SPSS Statistics software (Ver.19) was used
elastic nature of most fabric samples, the amount of for statistical analysis. One-way ANOVA and LSD
slippage was adjusted at 2 mm value. The value of tests were applied to results of fabric tensile
 NAMIRANIAN et al.: SEAM SLIPPAGE & SEAM STRENGTH BEHAVIOR OF FABRIC 225

Table 3—Average values of seam slippage force and strength in

warp direction
Sample Seam slippage force, N Seam strength, N
C 115.40 231.34
(23.87) (20.31)
3C1N 152.75 231.72
(12.79) (12.74)
2C1N 145.80 236.58
(7.41) (10.72)
1C1N 155.10 225.84
(6.12) (6.54)
1C2N 158.24 238.32
(7.60) (6.66)
N 175.11 215.18
(5.17) (4.90)
Values in parentheses are standard deviation of measurements.
Table 4—Seam slippage force and strength for different values of
stitch densities in weft direction
Sample Seam slippage force, N Seam strength, N
-1 -1 -1
4 cm 5 cm 6 cm 4 cm-1 5 cm-1 6 cm-1
C 51.03 79.55 93.32 174.00 194.80 190.06
(15.73) (22.98) (22.02) (4.50) (7.92) (12.01)
3C1N 63.87 73.46 122.59 189.34 197.45 204.60
(13.44) (17.01) (29.09) (6.06) (9.76) (7.15)
2C1N 67.91 92.99 123.22 192.68 201.74 210.02
(18.19) (14.60) (21.39) (8.47) (4.01) (8.01)
1C1N 87.48 113.48 150.37 191.72 205.64 210.04
(8.90) (15.25) (20.32) (14.64) (4.74) (11.94)
1C2N 108.55 126.57 142.41 192.68 223.74 221.48
(21.88) (17.63) (19.72) (8.47) (9.88) (9.84)
N 90.11 105.18 125.61 199.66 212.92 227.06
(13.74) (8.75) (26.85) (3.87) (4.43) (10.92)
Values in parentheses are standard deviation of measurements.

properties and sewn samples. All statistical

procedures were performed at a significance level of
0.05. Statistical results are briefly summarized in
Tables 5 and 6. Also a non-linear least square method
was applied to illustrate the trends of different tensile
properties of fabric and sewn samples using
Fig. 4‫ـــ‬Tensile properties of fabric samples versus weft extensibility
MINITAB software. in weft and warp directions [a‫ـــ‬fabric breaking elongation, b‫ـــ‬fabric
Young’s modulus, and c‫ـــ‬fabric tensile strength]
3.1 Fabric Tensile Properties
Trends of different fabric tensile properties are
significantly higher than in warp direction due to
shown in Fig. 4. Various tensile properties such as
existence of elastic core-spun yarns in weft direction.
fabric breaking elongation, Young’s modulus and
The results also show that the increase in fabric weft
tensile strength are discussed hereunder.
extensibility leads to increase in fabric breaking
3.1.1 Fabric Breaking Elongation elongation in the weft direction. However, fabric
Figure 4(a) exhibits the values of fabric breaking breaking elongation in the warp direction is invariant
elongation versus fabric weft extensibility. As it may with fabric weft extensibility except for sample
be expected, fabric elongation in weft direction is C which has the maximum value (Table 5).
226 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2014

Table 5‫ـــ‬Statistical analysis results for fabrics tensile testing

Fabric layout Weft Warp

(I) Weft (J) Weft Fabric Tensile Breaking elongation Young’s Tensile Breaking elongation Young’s
extensibility strength percentage modulus strength percentage modulus
N 1C2N 0.000* 0.100 .000* 0.000* 0.209 0.000* 0.195
1C1N 0.000* 0.000* .000* 0.000* 0.612 0.038* 0.565
2C1N 0.000* 0.000* .000* 0.000* 0.947 0.000* 0.013*
3C1N 0.000* 0.000* .000* 0.000* 0.436 0.129 0.000*
C 0.000* 0.000* .000* 0.000* 0.211 0.000* 0.000*
1C2N N 0.000* 0.100 0.000* 0.000* 0.209 0.000* 0.195
1C1N 0.004* 0.000* 0.155 0.000* 0.445 0.026* 0.461
2C1N 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.188 0.303 0.193
3C1N 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.624 0.006* 0.000*
C 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.017* 0.000* 0.000*
1C1N N 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.612 0.038* 0.565
1C2N 0.004* 0.000* 0.155 0.000* 0.445 0.026* 0.461
2C1N 0.001* 0.298 0.000* 0.235 0.567 0.002* 0.048*
3C1N 0.000* 0.619 0.000* 0.105 0.782 0.543 0.000*
C 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.085 0.000* 0.000*
2C1N N 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.947 0.000* 0.013*
1C2N 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.188 0.303 0.193
1C1N 0.001* 0.298 0.000* 0.235 0.567 0.002* 0.048*
3C1N 0.000* 0.584 0.054 0.660 0.398 0.000* 0.009*
C 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.235 0.000* 0.002*
3C1N N 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.436 0.129 0.000*
1C2N 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.624 0.006* 0.000*
1C1N 0.000* 0.619 0.000* 0.105 0.782 0.543 0.000*
2C1N 0.000* 0.584 0.054 0.660 0.398 0.000* 0.009*
C 0.003* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.049* 0.000* 0.487
C N 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.211 0.000* 0.000*
1C2N 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.017* 0.000* 0.000*
1C1N 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.085 0.000* 0.000*
2C1N 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.235 0.000* 0.002*
3C1N 0.003* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.049* 0.000* 0.487
Sig. value** 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.000 0.203 0.000 0.000
* Mean difference is significant at 0.05 level.
** ANOVA significant value.

3.1.2 Fabric Young’s Modulus yarns in weft direction (Table 5). Hence, under a
Figure 4(b) shows the measured values of Young’s constant load, fabrics with higher number of elastic
modulus for different fabric samples in both weft and core-spun yarns show greater value of elongation in
warp directions which decrease with increase in the both warp and weft directions.
weft extensibility. However, Young’s modulus in
warp direction is much higher than in weft direction 3.1.3 Fabric Tensile Strength
due to the fact that there is no elastic yarn in fabric The effects of fabric weft extensibility on fabric
warp direction. Therefore, fabric samples would be tensile strength are shown in Fig. 4(c) for both weft
extended easily in weft direction. There are and warp directions. Using elastic core-spun yarns in
decreasing trends of modulus in both warp and weft fabric structure, tensile strength of fabric samples is
directions with increasing the number of core-spun found lower along the weft than warp direction and
 NAMIRANIAN et al.: SEAM SLIPPAGE & SEAM STRENGTH BEHAVIOR OF FABRIC 227

Table 6—Statistical analysis results for sewn sample tests

Fabric layout Seam slippage load Seam strength load
(I) Weft (J) Weft Weft Warp Weft Warp
-1 -1 -1 -1 -1 -1
4 cm 5 cm 6 cm 4 cm 5 cm 6 cm
N 1C2N 0.078 0.053 0.410 0.038* 0.916 0.209 0.950 0.100
1C1N 0.795 0.437 0.228 0.016* 0.171 0.613 0.123 0.438
2C1N 0.036* 0.257 0.906 0.001* 0.227 0.182 0.122 0.126
3C1N 0.015* 0.006* 0.881 0.008* 0.079 0.027* 0.020* 0.233
C 0.001* 0.022* 0.120 0.000* 0.000* 0.007* 0.000* 0.243
1C2N N 0.078 0.053 0.410 0.038* 0.916 0.209 0.950 0.100
1C1N 0.046* 0.224 0.694 0.686 0.142 0.007* 0.495 0.365
2C1N 0.000* 0.004* 0.348 0.118 0.190 0.001* 0.493 0.899
3C1N 0.000* 0.000* 0.332 0.481 0.064 0.000* 0.128 0.629
C 0.000* 0.000* 0.022* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.001* 0.610
1C1N N 0.795 0.437 0.228 0.016* 0.171 0.613 0.123 0.438
1C2N 0.046* 0.224 0.694 0.686 0.142 0.007* 0.495 0.365
2C1N 0.062 0.063 0.188 0.238 0.866 0.954 1.000 0.434
3C1N 0.027* 0.001* 0.178 0.762 0.676 0.491 0.955 0.667
C 0.001* 0.004* 0.009* 0.000* 0.004* 0.207 0.048* 0.687
2C1N N 0.036* 0.257 0.906 0.001* 0.227 0.182 0.122 0.126
1C2N 0.000* 0.004* 0.348 0.118 0.190 0.001* 0.493 0.899
1C1N 0.062 0.063 0.188 0.238 0.866 0.954 1.000 0.434
3C1N 0.690 0.075 0.975 0.375 0.558 0.933 0.956 0.722
C 0.105 0.212 0.149 0.001* 0.003* 0.658 0.048* .701
3C1N N 0.015* 0.006* 0.881 0.008* 0.079 0.027* 0.020* 0.233
1C2N 0.000* 0.000* 0.332 0.481 0.064 0.000* 0.128 0.629
1C1N 0.027* 0.001* 0.178 0.762 0.676 0.491 0.955 0.667
2C1N 0.690 0.075 0.975 0.375 0.558 0.933 0.956 0.722
C 0.212 0.567 0.157 0.000* 0.012* 0.992 0.247 0.978
C N 0.001* 0.022* 0.120 0.000* 0.000* 0.007* 0.000* 0.243
1C2N 0.000* 0.000* 0.022* 0.000* 0.000* 0.000* 0.001* 0.610
1C1N 0.001* 0.004* 0.009* .000* 0.004* 0.207 0.048* 0.687
2C1N 0.105 0.212 0.149 0.001* 0.003* 0.658 0.048* 0.701
3C1N 0.212 0.567 0.157 0.000* 0.012* 0.992 0.247 0.978
Sig. value** 0.000 0.000 0.124 0.000 0.001 0.000 0.000 0.576
* The mean difference is significant at the 0.05 level.
** ANOVA significant value.

also decreases with increasing the number of elastic densities in weft and warp directions. ANOVA
core-spun yarns, whereas it has no significant effect in statistical analysis results (Table 6) show that stitch
warp direction (Table 5). Decreasing trend of fabric density and fabric extensibility significantly affect
tensile strength in weft direction is in agreement with seam slippage load. In samples which are sewn along
decreasing trend of fabric Young’s modulus [Fig. 4(b)]. fabric warp direction, seam slippage force increases
significantly with the increase of stitch density. In
3.2 Seam Slippage and Seam Strength stitch density levels of 4 and 5, seam slippage force
3.2.1 Seam Slippage decreases with increasing the numbers of core-spun
Figure 5 shows the values of seam slippage force yarns in weft direction. However, by adding one
for different fabric samples with different stitch elastic core-spun yarns to weft layout together with
228 INDIAN J. FIBRE TEXT. RES., SEPTEMBER 2014

Fig. 6‫ـــ‬Schematic view of a seamed structure imposed to tensile load

slippage occurs near fabric plastic deformation zone.

Fig. 5‫ـــ‬Seam slippage load versus weft extensibility for different On the other hand, a high stitch density level (stitch
levels of stitch densities in weft and warp directions
density 6) prevents the pure fabric zone to play its role
two normal yarns in one weft layout repeat (sample as it does in stitch densities of 4 and 5. Thus, there is
1C2N), despite of the considerable increase of fabric not a clear decreasing trend of seam slippage load with
weft extensibility as compared to normal sample (N), fabric extensibility. However, as listed in Table 6, the
there is a slight increase in weft seam slippage load seam slippage load of sample C (highly extensible
for all stitch densities which is not statistically fabric) is significantly lower than those of samples
significant (Table 6). 1C2N and 1C1N.
To explain the obtained results, the resistance of a Figure 5 also reveals that the seam slippage load is
sewn fabric structure can be divided into two regions, higher in warp direction with stitch density of 5 than
namely 'pure fabric zone' and 'seam zone', based on those in weft direction for all levels of stitch densities.
work done by Shimizaki and Lloyd 18 (Fig. 6). Similar reasoning as discussed before can be stated
An increase in stitch density value for a specific here. According to fabric tensile properties in related
fabric sample leads to increase in seam zone directions (Fig. 4), this result can be explained because
resistance which is the weakest zone in a sewn of higher values of fabric Young’s modulus and tensile
structure sample against tensile loads. strength and also lower breaking elongation in warp
Decreasing trends of seam slippage load with comparing with the weft direction.
increase in fabric weft extensibility in stitch density Seam slippage load in warp direction decreases with
levels of 4 and 5 can be interpreted considering fabric increase in fabric weft extensibility that can be
tensile behavior (Fig. 4) as discussed in previous interpreted with decrease of Young’s modulus [Fig.
section. As shown in Fig. 4(b), with the increase in 4(b)] and also with increase in breaking elongation
fabric extensibility, fabric Young’s modulus percentage [Fig. 4(a)] in warp direction as the numbers
significantly decreases, which, in turn, causes fabric of elastic core spun yarns increases in weft direction.
sample to be easily deformed under tensile loads. As a 3.2.2 Seam Strength
consequence, there will be lower amount of fabric The results of seam strength for different values of
contribution (in pure fabric zone) to sewn sample stitch density in weft and warp directions are
resistance against tensile loads and hence a larger illustrated in Fig. 7. Similar trends have been found
amount of force would be imposed to seam zone, so here. It has been illustrated that seam strength load
seam slippage would easily occur. decreases significantly with increase of weft
Moreover, as shown in Figs 4(a) and (c), with the extensibility for each stitch density level along weft
increase in fabric extensibility, fabric breaking direction. However, as shown in Table 6 and Fig. 7,
elongation percentage increases and fabric tensile the seam strength along warp direction is invariant
strength decreases that confirms decreasing trends of with fabric extensibility. Similar to seam slippage
seam slippage load with increase in fabric weft results, the seam strength values along warp direction
extensibility especially in the cases where seam are higher than weft direction.
 NAMIRANIAN et al.: SEAM SLIPPAGE & SEAM STRENGTH BEHAVIOR OF FABRIC 229

direction. It is also found that the increase in stitch

density leads to a higher amount of seam strength.
The findings suggest that the seam slippage and
strength properties of elastic woven fabrics can be
well interpreted from the fabric tensile properties
point of view, particularly in weft direction. Further
studies are needed to investigate the seam slippage
and strength behavior of elastic woven fabrics under
cycling loadings.

Acknowledgement
Authors are thankful to Mrs. Merce Mercader
Maeztu and her team, Technical School of Mundet,
Barcelona to help us sewing the samples and to head
Fig. 7—Seam strength load versus weft extensibility for different of iQAC, CSIC for providing laboratory test
levels of stitch densities in weft and warp directions
equipment. Thanks are also due to Mr. Sarsharzadeh
The obtained results for seam strength in warp for finishing our fabric samples in Harir-Semnan
direction can be interpreted similarly as it was factory.
discussed for seam slippage load. Because of higher
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