How I Stopped Worrying and

Learned to Love HXs

 

 Introduction

 Managing brew temperature

 Brew temperature profiles

Or, how to manage the brew temperature of your heat exchanger (HX) espresso machine.

The E61 is one of the most popular espresso machine designs among home enthusiasts. Named after the year
the patent was approved (a year of an eclipse), its gorgeously sculpted and highly polished group is recognized
as a hallmark of fine espresso machines. The design of the E61 group also has well-earned reputation as the
heart of an espresso machine that is forgiving of minor errors in barista technique. However, knowing how to
maximize this forgiveness necessitates a certain understanding of how heat exchanger espresso machines
work, as will be presented in the next section. If you're already familiar with these types of espresso
machines, you may want to skip ahead to the main topic of this how-to, Managing HX Brew Temperature.

Espresso Machines 201: Heat Exchangers

Unless you repair home appliances for a living, there's a good chance you don't really know or care what's
under the covers of your dishwasher. If you're like me, you have a basic appreciation of what's going on. To the
best of my understanding, my dishwasher works something like this:

 Hot water and soap go in,

  A shower-marimba of hot water ensues for twenty or thirty minutes,
 Dirty water is pumped out,
 Clean dishes emerge.

This pretty much covers the full depth of my knowledge of our dishwasher's inner workings. There's little
motivation to learn more because I don't see any practical use for acquiring the knowledge. In contrast, it is
worth understanding the principles behind how your espresso machine works because this knowledge will guide
your preparation techniques and that definitely has practical benefits—better espresso!

Whatever the espresso machine design, if the goal is to produce espresso and espresso-based milk drinks, they
all must address the same requirements:

 How to produce the coffee's optimal brew temperature water consistently, accurately, and reliably
 How to produce powerful, abundant steam for frothing milk.

And as a consequence of the first requirement, all designs must also consider:

 How to get the group to the desired coffee brew temperature.

If you're new to the espresso machine market, you may want to read Espresso Machines 101 before continuing.
It briefly introduces three of the most common espresso machine boiler designs, namely single boiler, double
boiler, and the focus of this article, single boiler / dual temperature, which are commonly called "heat
exchangers" (HX).

An intuitive appreciation for the workings of a single boiler espresso machines is easy. They have two
thermostats, one for brew temperature and another for steam temperature. Flipping a switch chooses which
controls the heating element. Dual boilers are even more obvious; they have one boiler for the coffee's brew
temperature water and another for producing steam. Heat exchangers are an innovative, efficient design that
defies such a brief explanation. To understand them more fully, let's address each of the questions above as
they apply to such espresso machines.

In essence, these requirements collectively pose the question, "How do heat exchanger espresso machines
work?"

How to produce brew temperature water consistently, accurately, and reliably

Heat exchanger espresso machines rely on a heavy, highly thermally conductive metal group. Temperature-
wise, think of the brew group as a chunk of brass having almost the same weight as a bowling ball and the few
ounces of water for an espresso as an egg. This analogy really adds meaning to the notion of "thermal mass,"
wouldn't you agree?

The heat exchanger, shown in the simplified schematic to the right as the tube passing through the center of
the boiler, is responsible for warming the incoming fresh water to near the coffee's optimal brew temperature
before it reaches the grouphead. Once all that solid brass is at the desired brew temperature, it acts as a
dampener to either reduce the temperature of the incoming water if it's a little too hot, or raise it if it's a
little too cool. Your goal is to get the group as close to precisely the desired brew temperature as possible so
it can "fine tune" the somewhat volatile temperature of the water exiting the heat exchanger. This of course
begs the important question that follows.

How to get the group to the desired brew temperature

The means by which the brew group arrives at the desired coffee brew temperature depends on the espresso
machine's design. Many commercial machines rely on direct thermal conduction by attaching the group directly
onto the boiler. Other machines, like those we're considering in this article, use a thermosyphon to circulate
water from the boiler through the group, as shown in the schematic to the right. As the water in the heat
exchanger portion of the loop warms (double lines), it rises and flows towards the group (red arrow). The
water then cools and descends towards the bottom of the group (blue arrow), returning to the boiler where it
reheats and repeats the circuit.

How to produce powerful, abundant steam for frothing milk

Boiler pressure (bar) Water temp (Fahrenheit) The boiler itself is only partially

full of water (or partially empty,

1.0 253 depending on your point of

view). The space above the

1.1 255
water is filled with steam under

1.2 257 pressure. Thus the boiler serves

two purposes: Providing steam

1.3 259 from the top portion for frothing

milk and an easily regulated

heat source to warm the water

passing through the heat exchanger.

The boiler pressure gauge indicates the amount of pressure, generally between 1.0 and 1.2 bar (one bar = 14.5
PSI). An espresso machine's boiler works under the same principle as pressure cookers by increasing the boiling
point of water to higher than the 212°F one expects when heating water in a pan on the stove. The table to
the left shows the actual water temperature at common espresso machine boiler pressures.

The entire brew pathway heats up to some percentage of the boiler temperature as this "super hot" water
circulates between the boiler and group. Since no system has 100% thermal efficiency, the final grouphead
temperature is determined by its own heat loss and that of the copper tubing carrying water to it. In the case
of most U.S. espresso lovers, their target brew temperature is around 201-203°F; for some countries overseas,
the tastes are for a cooler 192°F. Manufacturers adjust the length and diameter of the tubing making up the
thermosyphon loop to increase or decrease the efficiency of the circuit to arrive approximately at the desired
brew temperature.

Looking at the schematic, notice that the pump feeds into the same thermosyphon loop. To simplify the
diagram, I've omitted valves and solenoids that direct water through the group and highlighted the heat
exchanger portion of the circuit passing through the boiler. For most semi-commercial espresso machines,
the heat exchanger is little more than a fat tube that traverses the boiler with part of it immersed in the super
hot water and the rest exposed to only steam. The heat exchanger's job is to conduct some of the boiler's heat
to the water being pumped towards the grouphead. One problem, however, is that being surrounded by water
at no less than 250°F, it won't be long before the water inside the heat exchanger will also be super heated.
Extracting an espresso using this water will blast the coffee with blistering hot steam and assure an extremely
hot, bitter brew.

Enter the most important HX ritual you'll ever learn: The HX cooling flush. The next section will introduce why,
what, and how to ready an HX for brewing espresso. The essentials are covered in the first few paragraphs.
Experienced baristas may wish to continue reading the rest of the section for a discussion of the
thermodynamics behind these efficient and fascinating machines.
 Managing HX Brew Temperature
 

 Introduction

 Managing brew temperature

 Brew temperature profiles

You may be thinking, "I know how to flush a toilet. What is all this talk about 'flushing' an HX?" The previous
section introduced the reasons behind the need to flush the heat exchanger before starting the extraction, but
didn't answer the more important practical questions: How much water do you need to flush? Is it necessary
before each extraction, or only if the machine has been idle? After how long an interval is the espresso
machine considered "idle"?

Whew! You see why this initially appears to be a genuinely vexing problem. Let me assure you right now, the
answers are quite simple: All you need to do is observe and listen carefully and you'll discover the technique is
always the same—you've flushed enough water when it stops flash-boiling, plus a little more. To make this
point clearer, see this video clip showing the temperature of the water exiting the group during a cooldown
flush.

Notice how it sputters and spurts, then calms down to a steady flow right around the 24 second mark
(Hint: use the single-pour spout rather than a double-pour spout to make the transition easier to discern). If
the portafilter is loosely engaged, you can more readily hear the hissing of boiling water and steam—sound is a
very accurate indicator of when the heat exchanger is cleared of overheated water. Flushing water out of the
group until you've poured the same amount of "steady flow" water will give you the same starting temperature
shot-after-shot. No fuss, no muss, and takes less than 30 seconds.

Comparing E61 espresso machines brew temperatures at different pressurestat settings

HX cooling flush made easy

This simple approach to performing the cooldown flush applies to most prosumer E61 heat exchanger machines
at any reasonable boiler temperature / pressurestat setting. To demonstrate this point, the chart to the right
shows the in-basket temperatures during the extraction of a double espresso. I intentionally used three
different pressurestat settings for the Andreja Premium, ECM Giotto Premium, and Isomac Rituale—as you see,
using this technique produced almost identical profiles.

The steps of the complete ritual including the "water dance" cooldown flush are as follows:

1. Draw water through the group with the portafilter in place.

Continue until the stream pours steadily for about two ounces (more or less
depending on your taste) since the group is still over temperature when the hissing
stops. It depends on the machine's pressurestat setting, but in general the water
temperature is around 206-207°F when the last of the sputtering subsides. You can
literally count "one-one-thousand, two-one-thousand, three-one-thousand" to tick
off each degree from that point. To more easily judge when the heat exchanger
has emptied of superheated water, keep the portafilter loosely engaged and listen
for the sounds of hissing steam and boiling water.

If you've pulled a shot within the last five minutes, you'll need to pay extra
attention because the cooling flush will be much shorter than if the machine has
been idle for 10-15 minutes (on the order of ¼ the amount of water). You may hear
only a brief hiss and that's it. Don't draw too much water or the next extraction will
be under temperature (sour).

2. Remove the portafilter, fill and tamp the basket.

Don't dilly-dally; the water in the heat exchanger will be back to brew temperature
in 30-45 seconds.

3. Lock the portafilter back in.

Recall that a few moments passed as you filled and tamped between the cooldown
flush and the beginning of the extraction. This short interval gives the water in the
heat exchanger enough time to rebound to brew temperature. I've found it is easier
to consistently obtain the desired initial brew temperature by allowing a short
natural recovery rather than adjusting the flush amount and starting the extraction
immediately thereafter.

It may surprise you how little time is required for the HX to recover after a flush.
That is the point to watch—if you wait too long, the first third of the shot will be
 all boiling water. You'll recognize it by the dark, oily crema ring that forms. Such
an espresso is palatable served as a latte, since the extra bitter flavor adds "punch"
to the drink that you may like, but they're pretty rough straight up.

4. Watch the pour, looking for the color of the stream to lighten.

The pour of most blends will begin dark brown and uniform, and then the stream
color transitions to the point that "striping" develops. As the last of what you wish
to extract is removed, the stream turns a pale blond. The last dribbles of an
extraction are weak and bitter, so learn to stop the pump before blonding begins.

For the majority of home baristas, that's enough detail to produce very good espresso. The key points to retain
are:

 Draw water until the water dance ends, plus a little more to taste
 Allow a short recovery time after the cooling flush.

The "rebound time" is easy enough to integrate into your routine without much conscious thought. It simply
means not dawdling in front of the grinder or flush-and-locking in rapid succession. Keep in mind, however,
that this is specific to the prosumer E61s discussed in this article. The cooling flush requirements for other HX
espresso machines, like for example the commercial LaCimbali Junior (review) with its huge HX, are quite
different.

What is the "right" boiler pressure setting?

If the three prosumer HX machines mentioned above had different boiler pressure settings and yet their
temperature profiles were similar, what's the "right" setting? For prosumer HX machines (e.g., Quickmill
Andreja Premium, ECM Giotto, Fiorenzato Bricoletta, Grimac Mia, La Valentina, etc.), the boiler pressure
setting is a tradeoff of the desired brew temperature, steam quality, recovery time between shots, flush
amount, and flush frequency.

Most home baristas set their espresso machine's pressurestat somewhere between 0.8 and 1.2 bar (measured
at the top of the cycle) and then determine the flush amount to bring the group to the target temperature. I
prefer the pressurestat setting on the lower end of the acceptable range because it slows the overheating of
the water in the heat exchanger. The drawbacks are that it diminishes recovery time and especially steam
production, some espresso machines to the point where they no longer can create microfoam well. But if
you're preparing drinks only for yourself and perhaps a couple friends, the lower end of the boiler pressure
range is easier to manage temperature-wise than the upper end. The barista's job is easier in the former case
because the rebound time is long enough that the difference in brew temperature between a delay of 15
seconds and 25 seconds after the flush and the beginning of the extraction isn't dramatic. In contrast, a
miscalculation of ten seconds risks producing an over-temperature extraction (very dark initial crema, black
edges) for a pressurestat setting at the high end of the acceptable range.
The right boiler pressure for a prosumer machine is therefore the pressurestat setting that meets your drink
preparation pace, and to some degree, your experience level. Finally, keep in mind that commercial HX
machines in general are less influenced by the flush because of their heavier groups and larger heat
exchangers. Manipulating the brew temperature outside of the "comfort zone" of such espresso machines by
flushing requires more attention to timing the length of the flush and the rebound time, which compared to
prosumer machines is very short (e.g., 10 seconds or less).
 Producing Different
Brew Temperature Profiles
 

 Introduction

 Managing brew temperature

 Brew temperature profiles

I've been studying HX performance to better understand the dynamics of the cooling flush amount,
pressurestat setting, and design differences (e.g., length of the HX, how much is immersed in water, path
length, diameter of the thermosyphon, etc.). Independent of the espresso machine, they all exhibit what I call
the "HX hump" at the beginning of the shot, shown in the chart below. At first I tried to hone my technique to
produce as small a hump as possible, since the conventional wisdom of recognized experts in the field said
"flat is king."

Temperature profile of a commercial HX espresso machine

I've noticed two things the operator controls that affect the HX hump, especially on prosumer E61-type
espresso machines—how much is flushed, and the length of the interval between flushing the water out of
the HX and starting the extraction. The flush amount tends to affect the mid-to-tail end of the curve. The
rebound time ("pause before the pull") affects the very early part of the shot, either producing a prominent
hump, a flat one, or if there's little or no delay, it disappears completely and the curve becomes more like a
rising straight line that barely reaches the desired peak temperature (or worse yet, forms an inverted U as the
temperature plummets soon after the extraction begins).
The ideal rebound time for the E61s I've measured is somewhere around 15-35 seconds, depending on the
boiler temperature. It is certainly less than one minute since the heat exchanger water is above 212°F at that
point for all reasonable pressurestat settings.

The chart to the left shows an example of the prominent HX hump of the Cimbali Junior. Commercial espresso
machines like it and the double-boiler La Marzocco produce a profile that is uniquely theirs and there's little
you can do as an operator to change its shape—which is a good thing in a commercial environment. I've come
to appreciate how each of these temperature profiles favors certain extraction flavors.

Interestingly enough, I also discovered that unlike their bigger commercial brothers, you can "work" the
temperature of a prosumer machine to produce different curves that enhance different extraction
characteristics. So if a particular blend favors a "La Marzocco" like temperature profile, it's not difficult to
emulate it on your home machine. Don't laugh, but I've found that for our house favorite, Black Cat, I prefer
the slant-L profile for straight shots and a very "high hump" profile for cappuccinos. The initially higher
temperature boosts flavors that are otherwise lost in the background, producing a more flavorful cappuccino
with prominent chocolate and caramel overtones. On the other hand, the Toscano espresso of our local
roaster, Counter Culture Coffee, is a brighter blend and it benefits noticeably from an HX hump whether it's
served straight or in milk.

At first I thought this was only my imagination until Jim Schulman tried the same experiment on his
equipment. Jim is a home coffee roaster extraordinaire and master of the experimental method, so you could
imagine my delight when he reported these results (quoted with permission):

Temperature profile of a double-boiler commercial espresso machine

"I've done about five to six shots with the 45 second pause, and presumably the humped profile,
using the Kenya/Ghimbi blend I've been working on for the last six months. The results are
definitely more complex than the flat profile shots. I did the blend for a 'fruit bomb' taste
— massive blackberries and raspberries, a little orange and caramel —which the flat profile
delivers. The humped profile lowered the volume on the fruit, but brings out the clove, balsam
and minty notes of the Kenya. As you said before, the hump favors complexity by lowering the
volume on the 'loud' bitters and sours, and allowing the softer flavors to be perceptible.

It's not a question of which is better; different blends, tastes and moods will need different treatments. But
it's nice to have this as a variable—an aspect of the shot that can be 'worked.'"
I really appreciate his confirmation and also his descriptive explanation of the effects. As for me, I'm not sure
what balsam is (isn't that used on baseball bats for a good grip?) and yet this guy can taste it in an espresso.
Cool!

Conclusion

The purpose of this article is to share our experimentation and encourage speculation. I don't claim to have all
the answers. I continue to learn by experimenting, sharing, and listening to the ideas of other enthusiasts. It's
an intriguing aspect of my espresso hobby that keeps me interested, and I hope you will find it interesting too.
Finally, keep in mind that to a large extent, what I've outlined in this last section borders on temperature
accuracy for sport. Getting within a degree or two is more than accurate enough for my taste abilities, which
isn't difficult to do consistently just by observing the water dance during the cooling flush.

If you have questions or wish to join the discussion of this article, see the forums. The next how-to in this
series, Perfecting the Naked Extraction, continues by explaining the equally important dosing, distribution,
and tamping skills the barista must master.