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------------------THE GOOD COOK-------------------
TECHNIQU ES & RECIPES

BY
THE EDI TORS O FTIME-LIFE BOOKS

- -- -- - - - - - - - T I ME -ll FE BOOKS/ ALEXANDRIA, VIRGIN lA - -- - -- -- - - - - --

Cover: A cylindrical loaf of yeast-leavened white bread is
cut into thick slices, revealing a line, light texture that
results from thorough kneading and two slow risings
(pages 14-17). Before baking, the loaf was sloshed in a
checkerboard pattern to increase the bread's crust, and
brushed with beaten egg white to give it o light glaze.

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------------------------CONTENTS-----------------------

INTRODUCTION 5 The symbol of sustenance I Anatomy of a wheat

kernel I A spectrum of specialty flours I A guide
to yeast leavens I Softening fresh
yeast I Activating dry yeast I Cultivating
wild yeast I Bolstering a culture with baker's yeast
BASIC YEAST BREADS 13 Mixing and kneading I A blueprint for baking I Forming a

ENRICHED YEAST BREADS 33 21 cylinder I Rolling to lengthen a loaf I Braiding to unite

strands I Controlling contours with pans and molds I Rolls-
quickly shaped and speedily baked I A Middle Eastern bread
with a pocket for stuffing I Crisp snacks from strips of dough
Luxurious effects from eggs and butter I Molding a freestanding
ring I A two-stage strategy for mixing dough I Doughnuts: The

3
classic deep-fried bread I Buns that fea ture a spiral of
sweetness I The golden glory of brioche /The art of shaping
Danish pastries I Ingenious constructions for coffeecake
SPEC IAL YEAST BREADS 53 Handling sourdough starter /The double cooking of bagels I A
whole-wheat loaf tha t requires no kneading I Protracted
kneading for a tender French loaf I Incorporating vegetables fo r
flavor and color I An amalgam of elements in a rich, dark

BREADS WITHOUT YEAST 7Ll loaf IT actics for blending in cheeses and herbs
Alternative ways to lighten batters and doughs / Thin breads
leavened by steam I Flatbreads based on cornmeal ITwo old -
fashioned leavening methods /The speed and versatility of
baking powder I Pancakes- the staple breakfast bread I A
range of effects for waffles I Corn bread in a fitting form
ANTHOLOGY OF RECI PES 89 Basic yeast breads 90 I Enriched yeast
breads 100 / Fiavored yeast breads 107 /Yeast
puff breads 132 I Breads without yeast 136 I
Doughnuts 154 I Pancakes and waffles 159 I
Standard preparations 164
RECIPE INDEX 168
GENERAL INDEX/GLOSSARY 170
RECIPE CREDITS 173
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AND PICTURE CREDITS 176
4
- -- - -- - - -- INTRODUCTION--- - - -- -- -

The Symbol
of Sustenance
According to Hindu scriptures, "Everything is food, but bread is Using crude mortars, they ground grains int9 coarse flours and
the great mother." Throughout the ages, its status as the most sifted, or bolted, them through woven baskets to separate out
fundamental of fare has been celebrated by countless worship- the bran husks, called chaff (diagram, page 7).
pers, writers and thinkers. Bread is almost a synonym for The flours improved, but breads remained unleavened until
civilized sustenance. about 4,000 years ago, when some perceptive baker-probably
Not the least of its virtues is variety. Most people think of an Egyptian-observed that if an uncooked dough was left un-
bread simply as a dough made of wheat flour and water and attended for a few hours, often it would begin to bubble and give
baked in an oven. The fact is that bread can be based on any of a ofT a sour smell. When the dough was cooked, it produced a
multitude of flours other than wheat. It can be spiced or sweet- somewhat raised bread that was lighter in texture and more
ened, enriched, flavored or filled. Loaves and rolls may be palatable than one made from a fresh mix. Pursuing this lead,
unleavened and pancake flat, or lightened by baking soda or breadmakers soon found that a small piece of soured dough from
baking powder instead of the usual leavening, yeast. Some a previous mixture could raise a fresh dough. These pieces were
breads are cooked on a griddle, some are deep fried. Bagels are the first sourdough starters (pages 10-11) -naturalleavenings
poached before baking (pages 58-59). that many modern cooks also nurture from baking to baking.
The range of home-baked breads includes cakelike French Although the ancients did not understand it, the bubbling
brioche, chewy Mexican tortillas, dense German pumpernickel, and rising of their doughs was caused by yeasts-living single-
flaky Danish pastries, plump English crumpets and paper-thin celled fungi. These fungi, which float about freely in the air, are
Indian chappatis- to mention only a few of the possibilities. microscopic: 3,200 billion yeast cells weigh only a pound [%
There are breads that are made for breakfast-pancakes, waf- kg.]. In the warm, moist atmosphere of a dough, with the carbo-
fles and doughnuts-and Parker House or cloverleaf rolls for hydrates-or starches-of the flour to nourish them, the cells
dinner. Middle Eastern pita breads provide pockets that can be flourish. As they grow and reproduce, the yeasts convert the
stuffed with fillings; Scotland's black bun is a yeasty fruitcake starches into carbon dioxide gas and alcohol. The carbon dioxide
enclosed in a wrapping of plain bread. inflates the dough, giving it a porous texture. When the dough is
This volume is a guide to the preparation ofbread in all of its baked, the carbon dioxide forms at a faster rate to further light-
guises. The book begins with the basics-an explanation of en the bread; meanwhile, the alcohol escapes through evapora-
flours (pages 8-9) and yeasts (pages 10-11) and, in Chapter 1, tion, sending out a rich, "fresh-baked" aroma.
step-by-step demonstrations of how to mix, knead, shape and If the dough is made with wheat flour, kneading it increases
bake simple, yeast-leavened loaves and rolls. The next two the action of the yeast dramatically. Unlike other grains, wheat
chapters show how to embellish yeast dough with butter and contains significant amounts of proteins called glutenin and
eggs or with flavorings and special handling methods. Finally, gliadin. When moistened, they combine to form the elastic sub-
Chapter 4 illustrates the wide variety of breads that can be stance known as gluten. Kneading bonds the gluten chemically
made without yeast. All these lessons will enable you to use any with up to twice its weight in water and turns it into a three-
of the 201 recipes in the Anthology starting on page 90-a dimensional meshwork that traps the gas released by yeast.
collection that spans many centuries and lands and draws on
the world's most distinguished cookery writers. The master bakers of the ancient world
The Egyptians were not content with merely leavening their
The genesis of bread dough. Using techniques that are still employed today, they
Laced with mystery and magic, the history of bread is older flavored loaves with sweet or aromatic herbs, enriched them
than the recorded history of mankind. Archeologists trace the with honey or eggs, and shaped them in diverse ways. Hiero-
origin of bread to a primitive, gluey dough of water and wild glyphs and loaves found preserved in the tombs of pharaohs
cereal grains, beaten between rocks to crack their husks, that show more than 50 different forms, some intricately braided,
was shaped into flat cakes and cooked by wandering hunter- others sculpted to resemble birds, fish, cows and even miniature
gatherers on stones heated in open fires. In time, the nomadic pyramids. To give breads the all-around, radiant heat they need
peoples of the Middle East learned to cultivate local grains- to cook evenly, the Egyptians also developed special ovens,
wheat, barley, millet-and became the world's first farmers. shaped like beehives or barrels and divided into two compart-
5
INTRODUCTION

ments, a lower one for the fire, an upper one for the loaves. About the same time that milling was improved, a new type
It was the Romans, with their engineering skills, who per- of wheat, adapted to cold climates, was brought from Russia's
fected the first rotary mills, or querns, for turning wheat into Ukraine and became the major crop of America's vast Midwest-
bread flour. These mills consisted of two large, circular stones, ern plains. Wheats are divided into two major categories- hard
set one atop the other. The lower stone was solid and stationary. and soft. The soft varieties, like the early wheats used by the
The upper stone had a hollow center into which the miller Egyptians and Romans, yield a flour relatively low in gluten
poured grain. As the upper stone was rotated-by slaves or proteins. Hard varieties-of which the highly successful Rus-
animals during the early days of the mills' use, later by the sian strain is one-are gluten rich. Although soft-wheat flour
flowing water of a stream or river-the grain was crushed. The produces tender bread, only hard-wheat flour can withstand the
resulting meal was then bolted through finely woven cloth to manipulation required to develop the strong, gas-trapping
produce a relatively pure, yellowish flour. meshwork required for a high-rising loaf. Today, the most com-
A similar rotary system for turning wooden paddles inside a monly used flours are so-called bread flour-made with hard
large stone bowl to mix and knead dough made it possible for the wheat only-and all-purpose flour, which combines hard and
Romans to produce bread in commercial quantities. By the time soft wheats and has a wide range of cooking uses, including
of Christ, Rome had more than 250 bakeries and produced more breadmaking. Both types allow bakers to readily produce yeast
than half a million loaves daily. Two hundred years later, the ·loaves with a fine, uniform and light texture.
government nationalized bakeries so that it could issue free Even fine wheat flours vary in color from yellow to cream
loaves. The populace, reported the Roman satirist Juvenal, when freshly milled. At this stage, the flour produces a sticky
"longs eagerly for just two things- bread and circuses." dough that cannot rise fully. Once, the problem was solved by
Roman legions introduced wheat and the art of breadmak- storing the flour for a minimum of 30 days; as it aged, its color
ing throughout the Empire, but wheat did not grow easily where faded to white and its components matured to make handling
winters were severe or the soil was rocky. After Rome fell and easier. Storing flour, however, was expensive and often resulted
trade within Europe stopped, white loaves became a luxury only in insect infestation. Toward the close of the 19th Century, mill-
the privileged classes could enjoy. For most Europeans, the dai- ers began to treat freshly milled flour with oxidizing agents-
ly bread was made from rye or millet or-in the northernmost now carefully controlled by federal law-to "bleach" it and give
countries such as Scotland and Sweden-from oats or barley. it the handling characteristics of naturally aged flour .
The settling of the New World changed that. Colonists As flours were perfected, so were the leavenings for bread.
adopted the native corn as a base for bread, with an enthusiasm For centuries, bakers generally relied on the frothy scrapings
not shared by the Old World. At the same time, they cleared from brewers' vats to supply yeast for their bread, or they mixed
farm land and soon were producing wheat crops so bountiful up sourdough starters by combining flour or meal with water or
that even the poor of Europe could enjoy part of the largesse. By milk, sugar, hops, onions or potatoes-almost any foodstuff
the time of the Revolutionary War, wheat was America's lead- that contained starches to nourish whatever yeast cells might
ing export. In 1776, some 75 tons of wheat were shipped over- descend on the mixture. But in the wake of Louis Pasteur's
seas from George Washington's Mount Vernon farm alone. studies of yeast cell activity in the 1850s, European scientists
rapidly mastered methods for growing yeast that would suit a
Improving the product baker's special needs.
The 19th Century was a kind of Golden Age for breadmakers: The secrets of producing such yeast on a wide scale re-
Improved milling processes, new wheat varieties and depend- mained in Europe until 1865, when two Austrian brothers and
able leavenings enabled commercial and home bakers alike to bakers, Charles and Maximillian Fleischmann, came to Amer-
refine their breads and produce them with ease. ica to attend their sister's wedding. They were shocked by the
Even when wheat was milled twice and bolted through silk poor quality of the bread, which they blamed on the yeasts. In
gauze, the result was a yellowish flour of uneven texture, 1867, they returned to America, this time with a vial of baker's
flecked with bran and germ. Millers knew that steel rollers yeast tucked for warmth in Charles's breast pocket. Settling in
could grind wheat finer than stones would, but it was not until Cincinnati, the Fleischmanns built a thriving business by grow-
James Watts invented the steam engine in 1769 that adequate ing yeast and shipping it nationwide in the form of compressed
power was available to turn such rollers. By 1834 a Swiss, Jacob cakes-enclosed in balsa wood boxes as protection from exces-
Sulzburger, had developed a steam-powered roller mill; by 1870 sive heat or cold. (Dry yeast was developed at the start of World
a Minneapolis inventor, Edmund La Croix, had improved the War II to help provide the American armed forces overseas with
process with a purifier to separate the middlings-bran, germ fresh bread; it was not available to home bakers until1945.)
and coarse particles-from the fine particles that form a Yeast and sourdough were not the only leavenings used to
smooth-textured white flour. In such a mill, high-speed rollers raise breads baked at home. One early leaven, dating back to
cracked rather than crushed the wheat; the grain was passed the 18th Century, was water in which hardwood ashes had been
through screens of increasing fineness, then air currents drew soaked. Called pearlash, this water was a weak form oflye that
off impurities from the middlings. Next, the bran and germ were produced carbon dioxide when heated. Another source of carbon
sifted out, and the coarse particles were rolled, sifted, and per- dioxide was baking soda or, as it was known then, saleratus.
haps purified again. This process is used today in many mills. Developed in England, saleratus soon was distributed through-
6
out Europe and America. But because both pearlash and salera- steam and keeping it from spoiling the crispness of the crust.
tus were alkaline, they gave bread an objectionable taste unless If yeast bread is to be kept for more than 24 hours, put it in a
neutralized by an acidic ingredient. dry, well-ventilated metal or wooden bread box, or enclose it in
Baking powder, which combines alkali and acid, appeared plastic wrap or foil and refrigerate it. The length of time bread
in the 1840s, when it was sold as premeasured, separate packets will stay fresh is determined by its size and ingredients: Large
of baking soda and the acid salt, cream of tartar. Not until1855 thick loaves release moisture more slowly than small thin
did the Boston firm of Preston and Merrill discover that the two breads; breads rich with egg and butter- which retain mois-
could be combined in a single package if an inert filler such as ture- keep longer than plain breads. Kept in a box, a 2-pound
cornstarch was added to absorb atmospheric moisture and keep [1-kg.] basic loaf will stay in good condition for up to one week;
the alkali and acid from reacting with each other. an enriched loaf of the same size will keep a few days more.
Refrigerated, both loaves will remain fresh for up to two weeks.
Baking bread at home Bread freezes well if wrapped tightly in a double thickness
The refinement of bread ingredients and the ease with which of plastic wrap or foil. Frozen bread will keep for several
they now can be handled has been a boon for the home baker. months. Before you serve the bread, unwrap it and let it thaw for
Breads leavened with baking powder-biscuits and pancakes, three to six hours or heat it, wrapped in foil, for 10 or 15 minutes
for example-can be produced on even the tightest of schedules in a 400° F. [200° C.] oven.
(they are rightly called "quick breads") and varied almost end- Bread can be an elemental repast, served with wine and
lessly in flavor, texture and shape. cheese or with soup; or it can become part of a feast. Whatever
Yeast breads take more time, but require no special skill. role it plays in a meal, its maker will know the special satisfac-
The 19th Century cookery writer Eliza Acton remarked in The tion expressed with perfect simplicity in the maxim, "She who
English Bread-Book for Domestic Use, "A very exaggerated idea has baked a good batch of bread has done a good day's work."
of the difficulty and trouble of breadmaking prevails amongst
people who are entirely ignorant of the process." The making of
yeast breads in particular offers indubitable pleasures: the lei-
surely rhythm of kneading, the still-magical sight of yeast bub- Anatomy of a Wheat Kernel
bling and dough rising, the delightful aroma that fills a home as
bread bakes and later cools, the golden vision of a crisp crust.
Breadmaking is an activity that stirs all the senses.
The most important kinds of equipment for producing yeast
breads are your hands-for kneading-and your oven. All
breads need even heat to rise and brown uniformly. By working
with your oven, you will become familiar with its idiosyncrasies
and learn how to use it best. In most cases, an oven is hotter in Bran
back; thus you may have to turn loaves around during baking. Endosperm
Weather and locale may necessitate variations in the proc-
ess. On humid summer days, for example, you may need to use a
little less liquid; your flour will have already absorbed some
atmospheric moisture. At a high altitude, dough rises faster
because there is less atmospheric pressure. For yeast breads, no
recipe adjustment to altitude is necessary, but keep a watchful
eye on the dough: It should not be allowed to increase in volume
more than the cooking instructions specify. For baking soda and
baking powder breads, use a bit less leavening at high altitudes
than called for. Also, at an altitude of 3,000 feet or higher, the
baking temperature for bread should be increased by 25° F. [15°
C.]. The extra heat is needed to set the crust faster and prevent
Food in a neat packet. A wheat kernel, or seed, consists of
the bread from overrising during its last surge in the oven. three parts: bran, germ and endosperm. Its oute r coating is made
Appealing as the aroma of hot, freshly baked yeast bread up of four fibrous layers, collectively known as bran. At the
may be, it is generally better to let loaves cool, overnight if stem end of the kernel is the oil- rich germ, the embryo of the future
possible, before you eat them. The wait is necessary to let the plant; it is a concentrated source of protein, iron and vitamins B
bread's flavor mature and to allow the loaf to firm so that it can and E. The bulk o f the kernel - more than 80 per cent of its
be sliced without tearing or crumbling. Small rolls will, of weight - is the endosperm, the germ's food source. It contains
about 67 per cent starch and up to 11 per cent gluten-forming
course, cool faster, but even they should not be served straight
proteins; the remainder is made up of water and minerals.
from the oven. Loaves or rolls baked in pans should be unmolded
for cooling, and all loaves should be cooled on a wire rack. The
rack will let air circulate freely around the bread, removing
7
INTRO DUCTI O N

A Spectrum of Specialty Flours

White all-purpose or bread flour is the The more low-gluten or low-starch flour
basic ingredient of most loaves. Yet a is used, the more pronounced will be Flour
dozen other kinds of flour-listed in the its effect on the flavor of the bread. But
chart at right-are widely available at as the proportion of specialty flour in-
specialty markets, health-food stores and creases, the ability of the dough to rise
BARLEY
supermarkets, and are easily used to cre- and the lightness of the finished loaf de-
ate yeast breads with special textures, crease. The chart at right lists ratios of
flavors, colors and aromas. specialty flour to all-purpose or bread
Many of these specialty flours serve flour that will yield loaves that are dis-
alone to produce dense-textured or flat tinctive in character yet as light as ordi- BUCKWHEAT
breads. Rye flours, for example, yield a nary white bread.
rich, moist black bread (recipe, page 107), A specialty flour will vary somewhat
and corn flour-or masa harina-pro- in the amount of moisture it will ab-
duces chewy tortillas (recipe, page 141). sorb-depending on such factors as the CORN
However, to form light-textured risen exact variety of the plant from which it
breads, flour must have gluten-forming comes and the way the flour is milled.
proteins, as well as starches to nourish To achieve the proper consistency when
yeast. And only wheat among all the ce- mixing a dough, add all of the special-
real grains has appreciable amounts of ty flour first. Then incorporate the all- GLUTEN
gluten-forming proteins. purpose or bread flour gradually, using
All-purpose flour is milled from a com- only enough to form a firm dough that no
bination of high-gluten hard wheat and longer sticks to the bowl or work surface.
lower-gluten soft wheat; bread flour is To protect them from absorbing mois- MILLET
milled solely from hard wheat. Not only ture, all flours should be stored in air- I
can both be used alone in breadmaking, tight containers. All-purpose and bread
but they also can be mixed with other flours can be kept at room temperature
flours to bring to the loaves the starches for up to six months. So can gluten flour. OAT
or gluten that specialty flours may lack. But other specialty flours contain some of
Among the specialty flours, two actu- the germ of the grain, and the oils in the
ally are made from wheat. Gluten flour, germ eventually turn rancid. Therefore,
milled from ha rd wheat, is treated to re- specialty flours should be kept in the re-
frigerator and used within three months RICE
move some of its starch and concentrate
its proteins so that it contains at least 70 if possible. Before it is used, any refriger-
per cent pure gluten. To make a risen ated flour must be allowed to warm to
loaf, gluten flour needs bolstering with room temperature.
all-purpose or bread flour-to provide RYE, DARK
the necessary starch. Whole-wheat flour,
also made from hard wheat, includes
germ and bran, which interfere with the
development of its gluten; loaves baked RYE, MEDIUM
from whole-wheat flour alone rise slowly
and never attain a light, fluffy texture.
Rye flours and triticale flour-milled
from a man-made hybrid of wheat and
Baking with specialty flour. This chart, in SOY
rye-contain some gluten-forming pro-
ratio fo rm , shows how much specia lty flour may
teins, but of insufficient strength to raise be substituted fo r part of the all-p urpose o r
loaves significantly. The rest of the flours bread flour in basic yeast breads -and what
on the chart have only traces of gluten characteristics the specialty will contrib ute to
or-in the case of soy flour, made from a loaves. The first number of each substitutio n TRITICALE
bean rather than a cereal- none at all. ratio ind icates the proportion of specialty flour;
In spite of these variations, specialty the second number indicates the p roportion of
flours can be introduced into almost any all-purpose o r bread flour. Thus, for a recipe
that requires 6 cups [ 1 1/21iters] of white flour,
basic yeast bread recipe that calls for
yo u ca n substitute 1 cup [ 1/4 liter] of barley flour WHOLE-WHEAT
only all-purpose or bread flour. To com- and 5 cups [ 1 Y4 liters] of white flour (a 1-to- 5
bine flours successfully requires achiev- ratio ) or 3 cups [% liter] of dark rye flour a nd
ing a chemical balance between them. 3 cups of wh ite flour (a 1-to- 1 ratio) .
8
Substitution Aroma and Taste Crust Characteristics Interior Characteristics
Ratio

1:5 Slightly malty with a pleasantly Ton; medium hard Grayish ton; chewy and moist
bitter aftertaste

1:5 Earthy, slightly musty and full- Dark brown; soft Dork gray; moist and fine-
bodied grained

1:5 Bland, somewhat yeasty and Mottled and pole; flaky Pale yellow; chewy and slightly dry
slightly sweet

2:1 Blond and slightly yeasty Dark ton to medium brown; White; fine-grained and slightly dry
chewy to crisp

1:5 Nutty and slightly sweet Ton; smooth and chewy White to creamy; dense and fine-
grained

1:3 Slightly sweet and earthy Uniformly pole; crunchy Light brown; coarse-grained and
crumbly

1:5 Moderately sweet Light golden brown; delicate Creamy white; fine-grained and
slightly d ry

1:1 Strongly bitter and full-bodied Dark brown; coarse Dark brown; coarse-gra ined and
crumbly

2:1 Mildly bitter Medium to dark b rown; coarse Medium brown; fine-grained and
crumbly

1:5 Pleasantly musty and slightly sweet Dark golden brown; chewy Yellow brown; moist, firm and
fine-grained

1:1 Slightly bitter Light brown; soft Light to medium brown; coarse- to
fine-grained

1:1 Nutty Dark brown; chewy Light to dark brown; coarse-

grained

9
INTRODUCTION

A Guide to Yeast Leavens

Living yeast cells-the most widely used jars in which it is sold are marked with and reproduce, then inoculate the medi-
leavening for bread-grow and repro- its expiration date. Dry yeast will keep in um with living yeast. Most starters are
duce best in an environment that pro- a cool, dry place for up to six months. begun with a starchy ingredient, water
vides them with moisture and starchy To prepare commercial yeasts for use, and, in some cases, a bit of sugar. Tradi-
nutrients such as flour, sugar or potato. soften them with tepid liquid-water or tionally, this medium is left to inoculate
As the yeast cells metabolize these nutri- milk are the common choices. As a rule, itself by picking up wild yeasts and bac-
ents-a process called yeast fermenta- about '/.4 cup [50 ml.] ofliquid is needed to teria that are in the flours and in the air
tion-they release carbon dioxide gas, soften 1 ounce [30 g.] of fresh yeast, or (top right; recipe, page 167). But wild
alcohol and other natural by-products. lh ounce [15 g.] of dry yeast. Ideally, yeasts are temperamental, and such cul-
The gas, trapped in a dough's developing the temperature of the liquid should be tures frequently do not take.
meshwork of gluten, raises the bread. 100° F. [40° C.] but it can range from 80° A more reliable method for starting a
The alcohol boils off in baking. The re- to 110° F. [25° to 45° C.]. You can test the culture is to inoculate a medium with
maining by-products contribute flavor. temperature with a rapid-response ther- commercial yeast (bottom right; recipe,
Most of the yeast employed in bread- mometer, or drop a bit of the liquid on the page 167). However, the hardy commer-
making today is the commercially culti- inside of your wrist: The liquid should cial strain will crowd out most of the wild
vated strain Saccharomyces cerevisiae, feel barely warm. yeasts and, because its metabolic by-
commonly called baker's yeast. It is sold Commercial yeasts impart a mild fla- products are not as strongly flavored , the
as fresh compressed yeast cakes or as dry vor to bread. For stronger flavor, some starter will not produce the distinctive
yeast granules. Fresh yeast should be cooks prefer a home-grown yeast-and- results of traditional cultures.
compact and creamy-fawn in color; cakes bacteria culture called sourdough start- Once established, a sourdough starter
normally will stay usable for about three er. Because the yeasts and bacteria give will last indefinitely if it is refrigerated
weeks if left wrapped and kept refriger- off the flavorful by-products offermenta- and its yeasts kept supplied with nutri-
ated. Dry yeast also is creamy-fawn in tion for a longer duration, loaves leav- ents and free of contaminants. After each
color, but does not alter in appearance as ened with starter are pleasantly sour. use, but at least every two weeks, replen-
it ages. For this reason, the envelopes or To make starter, you need only provide ish the starter with flour and water.
a medium in which yeast cells can grow

Softening Fresh Yeast

Mashing the yeast. Pour tepid

liquid into a bowl and drop in fresh yeast.
With a fork, mash the yeast w ith the
l Moistening the yeast. Put tepid
liquid into a bowl, sprinkle dry yeast
granules over the water, and stir briefly to
2 Whisking the yeast. To ensure
that the yeast mixture w ill combine evenly
when it is added to the other bread-
water, and stir until the liquid is smooth wet the granules. Set the mixture in a dough ingredients, whisk it vigorously
and cream -colored. Set the mixture in draft-free place to soften and rehydrate immediately before use.
a draft-free place; as the yeast becomes the yeast. After about 10 minutes, the
active- after about 10 minutes - the mixture will be ready for use.
mixture w ill begin to foam, ind ica ting that
it is ready for use.

10
Cultivating Wild Yeast

A ripened culture. The leaven is

l Mixing the ingredients. Boil
potatoes, d rain them and peel them, 2 Fermenting the leaven. Cover the
bowl with plastic w rap (above). To ensure 3 ready when it is bubbly and smells
strong and sour when unwrapped.
reserving the cooking liquid. Mash the a constant temperature and to protect
potatoes. Put flour- in this case, rye the culture from drafts, wrap the bowl in a Before use, stir the sourdough starter
flour- sugar, the mashed potatoes thick towel. Let the culture ferment in a and, after use, replenish it with equal
and the reserved liquid into a Iorge worm place for at least three days. ports of flour and w ater.
bowl. Stir the ingredients together to
make a thick batter.

Bolstering a Culture with Baker's Yeast

A matured starter. A layer of thick

l Mixing flour and yeast. In a Iorge
bowl, mix fresh or dry yeast with tepid 2 Fermenting the mixture. Tightly
cover the bowl with plastic wrap a nd 3 bubbles on top of a fermented
sourdough starter indicates that the
woter(boxes, opposite). Whisk in enough set the mixture aside to ferment,
undisturbed, in a worm, draft-free culture is ready for use. Most starters
flour to form a thick, pourable batter. The
place (70o F. [30° C.]). mode from commercia l yeast con be
mixture need not be absolutely smooth:
used after about 24 hours of
Any lumps will be broken down by the
fermentation. However, for fully
action of the yeast.
developed sourdough flavor, the starter
must ferment for three days.

11
- - - - - -1- -
~asic Yeast ~reads
CUiverse Results
from Simple 'Techniques

Preparing the dough "All that bread wants is time and warmth," goes an old English saying.
Slashing for more crust Preparing yeast bread does, in fact, depend chiefly on these two factor$.
Shaping plain and fancy loaves
With time, gluten develops in the flour, forming an elastic meshwork
throughout the dough. With warmth, yeast produces carbon dioxide that
Five forms for rolls
inflates the gluten mesh and lightens the dough. Still, though bread-
Pretzels and bread sticks making is simple, it is an art replete with choices at every stage.
To make yeast bread, the ingredients -no more than flour, liquid
and yeast are needed - must be combined, then kneaded to strengthen
the gluten. One method of kneading is shown on pages 14-15, but the
only real requirement is to stretch the dough repeatedly until it is
smooth and elastic. If done by hand, this may take 10 to 20 minutes. You
can, however, cut the time in halfby using the dough-hook attachment of
an electric mixer or the metal blade of a food processor.
The kneaded dough must be allowed to rise one or more times-the
number depends on the qualities you want in the finished bread. Dough
that is immediately shaped and left to rise just once before baking will
produce a coarse-textur ed loaf, full oflarge holes. Dough that rises two or
three times will yield a fine-textured loaf, with small, even holes.
The time needed for the risings may be adjusted to suit your schedule,
but the slower the rise, the better will be the flavor of the finished bread.
When left at warm room temperature -70° F . [20° C.] is ideal-dough
usually doubles in volume in about one and one half hours. You can
hasten the expansion by any of several tactics: Put the dough in a par-
ticularly warm place-up to 100° F. [40° C.]; or double the amount of
yeast called for; or stir a teaspoonful [5 ml.] of sugar into the yeast
solution about 10 minutes before adding it to the flour (the sugar pro-
vides extra food for the yeast organisms). On the other hand, the risings
Small sp heres of bread that have
can be slowed by leaving the dough in a cool place or refrigerating it.
been baked together to keep thei r sides The choices are infinite when it comes to shaping the dough. You can
soft a nd moist are torn apart into form large round loaves or small cloverleaf rolls, long tapered cylinders
individual rolls. To form the spheres, risen
dough was shaped into balls that
or twisted bread sticks, loaves molded in rectangular pans or braided
were then fitted closely into a round cake from strands of dough. Shaping dough is usually easy, but braids may
pan to join as they rose. Just before take practice. Elizabeth David, an English authority on breadmaking ,
the rolls were placed in the oven, they cites the case of a 19th Century baker who confessed, "I learnt plaiting on
were glazed with beaten egg and
sprinkled with poppy seeds. a railway journey, using the fringe of the window-strap pieces."
13
BASIC YEAST BREADS

Mixing and Kneading

Making a yeast dough t hat will produce

well-r isen bread with a fine texture in-
side and a crisp brown crust requires pa-
tience: The necessary steps, shown here,
take two hours or more. But the dough
will be rising unattended for more than
half of that time, and the balance will be
spent in mixing and kneading-simple
processes that call for no special skill.
Your h and is the best instrument for
mixing. The only ingredients required
are flour, water and yeast, with a pinch of
salt for flavor (recipe, page 164) . To start
the yeast developing immediately, all in-
gredients should be at room tempera-
ture; let flour warm if it has been refrig-
erated, and use tepid water. Because
flour varies in its absorbency, work it
into the water gradually so that you can
adjust the prescribed quantity to achieve
Combining ingredients. Ad d salt

l
Mixing the dough. With one
a properly firm dough-one that is nei-
ther sticky nor stiff.
As soon as the flour is moistened, glu-
ten protein begins to form. Kneading the
to the flour. So ften active dry yeast or
fresh co ke yeast in a little tepid water
fo r 10 minutes (page 10). Place the
flo ur - in this case, all-purpose flour - in
2 ha nd, hold the bowl steady. W ith your
other hand, scoop a nd turn the flour
a nd liquid until they ore thoroughly
combined, forming a shaggy moss.
dough then homogenizes the ingredients a Iorge mixing bowl. Then pour the yeast
and strengt hens the gluten mesh, in- mixture, together with additional tepid
creasing its ability to stretch. Kneading water, into the center of the bowl.
may be done on a bare or lightly floured
surface; however, a coated surface may
cause extra flour to be mixed in, stiffen-
ing the dough and toughening the bread.
When the dough finally becomes sup-
ple, smooth and glossy, it is set aside in a
covered bowl to rise-or, in baker's ar-
got, to "proof' -in a 70° F. [20° C.] place
free from cooling drafts. During the ris-
ing time-which is usually about one
and one ha lf hours-the yeast cells in-
crease their production of carbon dioxide
gas, which gently infuses the dough a nd
stretches the gluten mesh.
After the dough has risen to double its
original volume, it is punched down to
expel large gas bubbles. Then the dough
is briefly kneaded and formed into balls
before its final shaping , proofing and
baking (pages 16-17) . As an alternative,
the dough can be left to rise again before

5
shaping to give it a finer texture. Or it Letting the dough rise. Put the

6
Dividing the dough. With your
can be covered and refrigerated for up to dough bock in the greased bowl. To fist, punch down the risen dough to
keep the d ough mo ist, cover the bowl compact it in the bottom of the bowl.
four days. Refrigerated dough will still
with plastic w rap or a damp cloth. Set the Then tu rn the doug h out onto the work
rise for four to five hours; knead it briefly bowl in a worm, draft-free place until surface. If, a s here, you hove mode
several times as it cools. When taken the dough is doubled - about one and a enoug h for two loaves, cut the doug h in
from the refrigerator, it should warm for half hours. To test the dough, press a half. Cover o ne ha lf with plastic wrap
a t least two hours before it is kneaded finger into it: If the dent fills in slowly, o r a damp cloth, and set it a side w hile
into a ball and sha ped for baking. the dough is ready. you wo rk w ith the other half.
14
 Kneading the dough. Hold the dough with one hand. With

4
Turning out the dough. If the

3 dough feels dry and stiff, mix in a little

more tepid water; if it feels sticky and
soft, work in some more flour. Empty the
the heel of your other hand, push the dough away in a firm,
unhurried stroke (above, left), taking care not to tear the moss
and so break the gluten mesh. Work gently at first: The dough will
be sticky and easily torn. After each stroke, fold the dough back
dough from the bowl onto a clean, dry
work surface. Wash out and dry the and at the some time give it a slight turn (right). Push, fold a nd turn
mixing bowl, grease it lightly with soft the dough with a regular motion for l 0 to 15 minutes. To develop
butter o r flavorless oil and set it aside. the gluten further, occasionally lift up the dough and throw it down.
Knead until the dough is smooth and easy to stretch.

Kneading the dough into a ball. Exerting a light pressure,

7 push away a corner of the dough with the heel of your hand, and
simultaneously give the corner a slight counterclockwise twist
(far left) to turn the whole mass. Fold the pushed-out piece back
into the middle(center, left). Repeat the pushing, turning and
folding (center, right) until the dough is rounded (far right). Turn the
ball so its pleats face down. Cover this ball and repeat the
process with the other piece of dough. Let the dough rest - and its
gluten mesh relax - for l 0 minutes before shaping into loaves.
15
BASIC YEAST BREADS

A Blueprint for Baking

After kneaded and risen bread dough has After the loaves have risen, their tops In a baker's oven, the last rising is giv-
rested briefly (page 15, Step 7), it is ready often are slashed with a razor - for prac- en a fast start by sliding the loaves di-
to be shaped into loaves and baked. A tical as well as decorative reasons. Slash- rectly onto the hot oven floor. Mean-
magnified cross section of the dough at es let excess gas escape during baking while, steam jets humidify the air to
this stage would reveal it to be a delicate and thus prevent the tops from splitting delay the drying and setting of the crusts,
foam composed of gas-filled gluten pock- in the oven. Additionally, slashes let thereby expanding the loaves even more .
ets. To protect this fragile structure, the dough push up from under the surface to To achieve similar results in a home
dough should be handled as gently as form secondary crusts that will be paler oven, first allow 15 to 20 minutes for pre-
possible, whether it is being shaped into in color and more delicate in texture. As a heating it. Either bake the loaves on a
the simple round loaves demonstrated further textural enhancement, the tops shelf lined with porous quarry tiles (box,
here, or into the more elaborately formed may be dusted with flour, which will give opposite) that will absorb moisture from
loaves and rolls on pages 18-31. the loaves a powdery finish. beneath the loaves to ensure crunchy
Even with careful handling, some of The loaves rise to their final size in the bottom crusts or bake them on a dark -
the gluten pockets will collapse. To re- oven. As the interior of the loaves heats, colored, carbon-steel baking sheet that
store them, the shaped loaves are al- carbon dioxide produced by the yeast rap- will absorb heat quickly to crisp the bot-
lowed to rise until the dough once more idly expands the gluten pockets; a well- toms. In either case, humidify the oven
doubles in volume. The rising can take made loaf may increase in size by a third during the first 20 minutes of baking:
place on the work surface, or on a baking during the first few minutes of baking. Place a pan of hot water on the floor of a
sheet greased with flavorless oil, unsalt- This rising-so dramatic that bakers gas oven or the bottom shelf of an electric
ed butter or lard, according to taste, and call it "oven spring" -will continue until oven when the preheating begins, a nd
perhaps dusted with cornmeal or semoli- the interior temperature reaches 140° F. spray the oven with water from an atom-
na for a crisper bottom crust. [60° C.). At this temperature the yeast izer during baking, as shown below.
cells die and the crust forms .

3 Slashing the loaves. When the loaves hove risen, use a

single-edged razor blade in firm, decisive strokes to cut sloshes
Y2 inch [1 em.] deep in the tops of the loaves. Here, one loaf has
been sloshed in a checkerboard pattern, then dusted with flour; the
4 Baking the bread. Check the water in the roasting pan; if
there is less than 1 inch [2Y2 em. ], add boiling water. Slide the
baking sheet onto the middle shelf of the oven, and spray the
oven interior with water. Spray again after 10 minutes. After 20
other loaf is being cut with a cross. minutes, remove the water and let the loaves brown.

16
 Shaping the dough. Lift up a kneaded ball of risen dough Letting the loaves rise. Space

l with one hand, and with the other hand gently pleat any folds or
tears by pinching them together (above, leh). Turn the ball over
and place it on a work surface, with the pleats down. Lightly pat
2 the rounds well apart on a greased
baking sheet. Cover, and set them in a
warm, draft-free place for about an hour,
and rotate the ball with both palms (right). Alternate pleating or until the loaves double in volume.
with patting the ball until it forms a smooth, round loaf. Meanwhile, place a roosting pan of hot
water in the bottom of the oven a nd
preheat the oven to 450° F. [230o C.].

Tiles for a Crisper Crust

A heat-storing base. Loy scrubbed,

unglazed quarry tiles side by side on
the middle shelf of the oven, leaving a
2-inch [5-cm.] margin all around so tha t
the hot a ir con circulate freely. Set a pan
of water beneath the tiles and preheat
the oven. Slide the risen loaves onto the
tiles. Spray the oven with water, then

5
Serving the bread. After baking for 45 minutes, rap the
bo ttom of one loaf with your knuckles(inset). A hollow sound spray it again in 10 minutes.
means the bread is done; if you hear a dull thud, return the loaf
to the oven for five minutes, then test again. Cool the bread on a
wire rack for at least an hour. Slice with a serrated knife.

17
BASI C YEAST BREADS

A Notched Cottage Loaf

Stacked one on top of the other, two or

three simple balls of dough in various
sizes can create unusual-looking tiered
loaves. Tiered construction has a practi-
cal effect as well: Relative to the volume
of the interior, it produces a loaf that has
a high proportion of crust, which many
consider the best part of any bread.
In this demonstration, two balls- one
about half the size of the other-form a
traditional English cottage loaf. A spe-
cial joining technique ensures that the
two balls will not come apart in the oven.
First, each ball is indented by thrusting
fingers all the way through it- a process
known as bashing. The resulting rings
are rested and then bashed again to re-
emphasize their shape. Next, the upper
piece, or topknot, is placed on the base,
and together they are indented a third Bashing. Cut risen b read doug h Joining the rings. Let the two
time to bind them. To further increase
the amount of crust, the cottage loaf is
then slashed vertically (Step3, below) . A
1 (page 14, Step 6) into two pieces, o ne
twice the size of the other. Shape them
into ba lls. Afte r 10 minutes, bash the
2 bashed rings rest for 15 minutes, then
bash each one ag ain. Slightly flatten
the top of the large ring a nd the b ottom of
final bashing secures the bond between larger ball by p ressing three fingers the small ring, then stack the two rings,
and a thumb straig ht down through its centering thei r indenta tions. With two
the two elements before baking. center to the wo rk surface. Use two fingers, carefu lly bash the combined
fingers to b ash the smaller ball. loaf through to the bottom.

5
Rising. Slide the loa f onto a g reased Baking the loaf. In a preheated and

4
Slashing. Position the loaf so that it

3 slightly overhangs the edge of a table or

board. W ith a single-edged razor
blade, cut a gash % inch [6 mm.) deep in
baking sheet and let it rise in a warm,
draft-free place until it has a lmost
doubled in volume -about 40 to 50
humidified 450° F. [230o C.] oven, bake
the loaf for 30 to 40 minutes, spraying the
oven twice (page 16, Step 4). When the
the overhanging portion of the loaf, all minutes. Bash the risen loaf once more. loaf is evenly b rowned and sounds
the way from the to p to the bottom. hollow when rapped with your knuckles,
Rota te the dough and repeat the cool it on a wire rac k. To serve, slice the
slashing around the loaf a t intervals of loaf from top to bottom o r pull apart the
about 1 inch [2% em.]. two pieces and slice them separately.

18
Forming a Cylinder

A ball of dough can be molded into a

cylinder-either blunt-ended, as shown
here and overleaf, or tapered (page 21)-
that will hold its shape well during bak-
ing. Before the molding is started, the
kneaded ball must rest so that the dough
loses some of its elasticity and becomes
easy to handle. Then the ball can be
molded in stages, each of which will
bring it nearer to a cylindrical shape.
Repeatedly folding and stretching the
dough in different directions develops its
gluten into a tight-knit mesh th at will
maintain the loafs form during baking
and give the interior a fine, firm texture.
Before baking the cylinder, you can
decorate its surface in a number of ways.
Sh allow slash es made with a razor blade
will open the foafto reveal areas ofpaler,

2
Flattening a ball of dough. Knea d

1
secondary crust (page 21), a nd a dusting Rolling the dough. Starting at the
a risen basic dough into a ball (page 15, far edge of the round, roll up the dough
of flour can give the crust a mottled look.
Step 7). Cover the dough with a damp toward you. Use your thumbs to
For an especially striking effect, the loaf cloth and let it rest for abou t 10 minutes. steady the roll and maintain its shape.
can be cut with a pair of kitchen shears, W ith crossed hands o ra rolling pin, press
as demonstrated overleaf; the resulting down on the ball firmly to spread and
notches will form a series of crusty ridges flatten it into a fairly uniform round less
that not only have an interesting appear- tho n 1 inch [2 Y2 em.] thick.
ance but also make the loaf simple to tear
into serving pieces by hand.

3 4
Flattening the cylinder. With crossed palms, press down Stretching the oblong. Take one end of the flattened dough
one end of the ro ll. Move your hands along the roll and, exerting in each hand and lift both ends slightly above the work surface.
even pressure, flatten it into an oblong slightly less than 1 inch Gently flap the dough up and down, at the same time pulling on
[2Y2 em.] thick. O r flatten the dough with a rolling pin. the end s, until you stretch the oblong to a lmost twice its length. 1JJ>

19
BASIC YEAST BREADS

Folding the dough. Fold in both ends of the stretched Finishing the shaping. Starting with the thicker side o f the

5 oblong of dough so that they meet at the middle(above, left).

Working from the middle, press down firmly on the folded dough
with your knuckles(right). Continue until the dough is spread into a
rectangle tha t is slightly th icker along the side farthest from you.
6 rectan le, roll up the dough as shown on page 19, Step 2, but this
time ro11 it tighter, pushing in firmly w ith your thumbs to produce a
compact cylinder (above, left). To even out the surface of the
cylinder, gently roll it back and forth beneath your palms (right).

7
Notching the loaf. Place the loaf,
seam side down, on a baking sheet that
ha s been greased, or dusted with Baking and cooling the loaf. Cover the loaf and let it rise
cornmeal or semolina. Sprinkle the loaf
with flour. Working along the length of
the loaf in a zigzag, stab a pair of open
kitchen shears deep into the dough,
8 for about 50 minutes, or unti l pressing it with a finge r makes an
indentation in the dough that fi lls in slowly. Spraying the
humidified, preheated oven twice(page 16, Step 4), bake the loaf
at 450° F. [230° C.] fo r 30 to 40 minutes, until it is brown and
then snip them shut to make diagonal sounds hollow when rapped . Place the loaf on a rack to cool. To
cuts at 1Y2 -inch [4-cm.] intervals. serve the loaf, slice it or tear it apart between the ridges of crust.

20
Tapering a Cylinder's Ends

Tapering a cylinder of dough produces a

bread with a generous volume of fluffy
interior relative to the amount of crust.
Begun in the same way as a cylindrical
loaf (pages 19-20), the tapered loaf takes
on its particular form through a slight
change in the final shaping process, as
demonstrated at right. Hand pressure is
used to force dough from the ends of the
mass to the center; the reapportioning of
mass is then further emphasized by roll-
ing the dough over the work surface
while exerting pressure only on the ends.
Tapered loaves may be left unadorned
and baked with merely a few slashes em-
bellishing their crusts, or they may be
decorated with a sprinkling of aromatic
seeds. Poppy seeds, used here with a light
brushing of egg white to bond them to the
dough, give the bread a dark-stippled,
Tape ring the loaf. Mold a risen Completing the shaping. W ith

l 2
rustic look but only a light flavoring. Ses-
ame seeds provide a slightly toasty fla- ball o f basic bread dough into a you r palms over the ends of the dough,
cylindrical loaf (pages 19-20). As you gently roll the tapered cyl inder
vor, whereas the seeds of caraway, fennel backward and forward, pressing dough
roll up the dough for the final time (Step
or anise contribute a distinctive licorice 6, opposite), angle you r hands at the from the ends of the mass to fatten its
taste to the bread. ends of the roll. Exert pressure with your midsection. Place the shaped loaf on a
hands while pushing the dough g reased sheet, brush the loaf with
toward the center with your thumbs to lightly beaten egg white and scatter
make a tapered, curved cylinder. poppy seeds over its surface.

Finishing the loaf. Holding a

razor blade almost flat, make three long,
shallow cuts on the top o f the loaf
(above). Cover with an inverted bowl or
pan to avoid disturb ing the seeds and let
the loaf rise for about SO minutes. Bake in
a preheated, humidified 450° F. [230°
C.] oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until the
loaf sounds hollow when rapped. During
baking, spray the oven twice(page 16,
Step 4) . Cool on a rack(right).

21
BASIC YEAST BREADS

Multiple Uses for Elongated Dough

Rolling to Lengthen a Loaf
By repeatedly rolling a cylinder of dough,
you can extend it into a thin, elongated
loaflike the one demonstrated at right-
a shape the French call a baguette. The
loaf may be as long as you wish: The only
limits are the size of your baking sheet
and of your oven.
When it is further rolled into a thinner,
ropelike strand, the dough can be coiled
neatly to produce a spiral, turban-shaped
loaf. Or the dough can be divided into
several pieces and rolled out into individ-
ual strands that may then be intertwined
to produce a braided loaf.
The number of strands that you may
use in a braid is variable, ranging from
just two for a single twist to as many as
nine for an intricately patterned loaf.
Three strands of dough are used in the
demonstration below; the top of each
braided loaf is brushed with a mixture of
beaten egg yolk and water so that the
crust will bake to a shiny, golden brown. l Lengthening a cylinder. Prepare basic bread dough
(pages 14-15) and shape it into a cylinder(pages 19-20). Let it rest
for 10 to 15 minutes. Place your palms at the middle of the cylinder
(above, left), then roll it back and forth with a steady p ressure,
moving your hands outward as you roll (center). To elongate the
cylinder further, rest it for five to 10 minutes and roll it again (right) .

Braiding to Unite Strands

Starting the braid. Shape risen Tape ring the loaf. To accentuate Turning over the loaf. After

l dough into three long, identical strands

(Step 1, above). Taper their ends and
lay the strands side by side. Working
2 the tapering of the strands, gently pull on
their tips as you braid outward from
the center. At the end of the loaf, press
3 braiding one half of the strands, flip the
loaf upside down and away from you
(above). Braid the second half in the
from the center, lap the strands one down on the tips to stretch them. same way as the first.
over another to braid one end.

22
 3
Baking the loaf. Cover the loaf and let it rise in a warm p lace

2
Slashing the loaf. Put the shaped loaf on a baking sheet that
has been lightly greased or on one that has been sprinkled with until doubled in volume- about 45 minutes. Spraying the
cornmeal or, as here, semolina. Hold a single-edged razor preheated, humidified oven when the loaf is added and again
blade almost flat against the top of the loaf and draw it along the after l 0 minutes(page 16, Step 4), bake the loaf at 450° F. [230°C. )
surface: In this case, four long, shallow, overlapping cuts are for about 30 minutes, until the top crust is well browned. Cool the
made almost parallel to the length of the loaf. loaf on a rack. Slice the bread for serving or tear it apart by hand.

5
Glazing the crust. If you make

4
Sealing the tips. Pinch the tips of
the braids together with enough pressure more than one loaf, place the loaves on a
to join them. If they will not stay, fold greased baking sheet, cover them,
the tips under the loaf so they are held by and let them rise until doubled- about
the weight of the dough. 45 minutes. Beat an egg yolk with
water and brush this glaze on the loaves.

23
BASIC YEAST BREADS

Controlling Contours with Pans and Molds

An Open Container for a Neat-cornered Base
Shaping bread need not be an art of ap-
proximation: The contours of a loaf can
be subjected to rigorous control by bak-
ing the dough in a mold or pan. In the top
demonstration, for example, an ordinary
loaf pan sharply defines the base of a
bread as a rectangle while allowing its
top to mushroom as it rises. In the bottom
demonstration, a cylindrical bread pan
with a hinged cover prevents the dough
from rising fully while baking and thus
yields a rounded loaf of geometric preci-
sion. Any ovenproof container- a casse-
role, layer-cake or tube pan, spring-form
pan, even a ring mold-is suitable for a
shaping role.
Covered containers will compact the
dough and make the inside of the bread
denser while keeping its crust soft and

l 2
thin. Some cooks prefer to use a milk- Greasing the pan. Mix a basic Molding the dough. Punch down
and-butter dough (recipe, page 164) for bread dough (pages 14-15) . Knead the the risen d o ugh and knead it into a ball.
do ugh, cover it and set it aside in a Mold the ball into a cylinder (pages
loaves that are baked covered; the fats in warm, draft-free place to rise. Using your 19-20) that is the same length as the pan.
milk and butter soften the flour's gluten fingers, smear the inside of a loaf pan Place the cylinder in the pan.
to yield a tender dough, offsetting the liberally with butter, as here, or coat it
density induced by the container. lightly with flavorless oil.
The material the pan is made from will
affect the texture and thickness of the
crust. Dark, dull-finished metals absorb
heat rapidly and create browner, crunch-
ier, thicker crusts than heat-reflecting, Complete Enclosure for a Dense-textured Cylinder
shiny metals do. Ceramic and glass con-
tainers absorb heat slowly but then re-
tain it well, producing crusts almost as
thick and brown as those ofbreads baked
in dark metal pans.
To allow space for the loaf to rise, a
container should be about twice as large
as the ball, cylinder or ring of dough it
holds. To ensure that the bread will fill
all the contours of a container, put the
dough in before its final rising.
After the bread has been baked, it
should be unniolded immediately and
placed on a wire rack to cool. Otherwise,
steam will collect around the loaf and
make the crust soggy. For an even crisper
crust, remove the bread from its contain-
er after about 30 minutes of baking, then
return the loaf to the oven to complete its
cooking on a baking sheet or oven shelf.

l
Putting the dough in the pan. Mix a basic bread or milk-and-
butter dough. Knead it, cover it and let it rise until doubled in
volume. Rub both halves of a covered cylindrical bread pan with
butter or coat them lightly with oil. Punch down the risen dough,
knead it into a ball, and shape it into a n elongated cylinder(pages
22-23) the same length as the pan. Place the cylinder in the pan.

24
 Slashing the loaf. Cover the pan

3 with plastic wrap or a damp cloth and set

the dough aside in a warm place until Baking the loaf. Put the pan in a preheated, humidified
it rises above the rim of the pan -about
40 minutes. With a single-edged razor
blade, make a slash about Y4 inch [6
mm.] deep along the top of the loaf.
4 450° F. [230° C.] oven. Spraying the oven twice (page 16, Step 4),
bake the loaf for 35 minutes, or until the top is well browned.
Unmold the loaf onto a cloth held in one hand. Rap the base of the
loaf: If the bread sounds hollow, it is done; if not, ba ke the loaf
without its pan for 10 to 15 minutes more; test again. Transfer the
bread to a wire rack to cool before serving.

2
Letting the dough rise. Close the lid of the pan and leave
the dough in a warm place to rise. After about 40 minutes, test the
dough by poking a finger into it: If the indentation fills in very
slowly, the dough has risen enough and is ready for baking.
3 Baking. Close the pan securely and put it in a preheated
450° F. [230° C.] oven. Bake the loaf for a bout 40 minutes. Remove
the pan from the oven, open the lid and tip out the loaf. Leave it
on a rack to cool and firm for several hours.

25
BASIC YEAST BREADS

Rolls- Quickly Shaped and Speedily Baked

Rounds: Molding in One Palm
By portioning risen dough into small sticky and hold seeds in place. Milk,
pieces, a cook can quickly form a dozen or cream or melted-butter glazes will soften
more yeast rolls into any of a wide vari- crusts; salted water will add flavor.
ety of shapes. The demonstrations here During baking, crust formation can be
and on the following page show five of the further held in check by the same oven-
options: rounds, cigars, knots, cloverleafs humidifying tactics used for loaves-
and those folded semicircles known as placing a pan of water in the oven and
Parker House rolls, a reference to the spraying water with an atomizer (page
Boston hotel where they were invented. 17) . More frequent sprayings keep roll
Any firm but malleable yeast dough crusts proportionately thin.
can be used for rolls. Basic bread dough To produce firm, chewy crusts, dust the
(pages 14-15) will produce rolls with a dough with flour (below) instead of ap-
dense, fine-textured interior. Milk-and- plying a glaze. This will cause the surface
butter dough (recipe, page 164) will yield to dry quickly. A humidifying pan is ad-
a lighter, moister interior. visable, but the floured rolls should not
As with loaves, rolls should be allowed be sprayed while they bake.
to double in volume before being baked. Like loaves, yeast rolls are too hot to
Because of their small size, the rising handle or eat straight from the oven.
will take 20 to 30 minutes-less than They must be transferred to a wire rack
half the time required for loaves. for about 10 minutes; during this cooling Expelling air. Mix and knead a
To produce tender crusts, the shaped
dough should be painted liberally with a
moistening glaze before baking. An egg
period, steam from the bread will evapo-
rate rapidly and leave the rolls dry to the
touch. Then, if you want to serve the rolls
l yeast dough . Cover it with plastic wrap
o r a damp cloth and let it rise in a
warm, draft-free place until doubled in
or egg yolk beaten with water will add a warm, wrap them in napkins to preserve volume. Cut the dough into pieces the
shiny, golden finish to rolls. A glaze of size of small lemons. Press down on each
their heat. Otherwise, let them cool thor-
piece several times with your fist to
egg white and water will make the dough oughly-another 20 minutes or so. expel all large gas bubbles.

Cigars: Tapering with Finger Pressure

Dusting with flour. With a single- Baking the rolls. Bake the rolls in a

2 3
Shaping the dough. Divide a

l risen dough into equal portions the size

of small lemons. Form each portion
into a ball (Steps 1 and 2, above). To
edged razor blade, cut a shallow slash
along each roll. Cover the rolls with
plastic wrap or a damp cloth and let them
rise for 20 to 30 minutes. For a firm
preheated 450° F. [230o C.] oven for
15 to 20 minutes, or until they are
lightly browned. Transfer them to a wire
rack to cool before serving.
shape each ball into a short, broad
cigar, roll the dough backward and crust, dust the rolls with flour.
forward under your fingers. Place the
cigar-shaped rolls well apart on a
greased baking sheet.

26
 4
Slashing the rolls. Place the balls Baking the rolls. To give the rolls a

2
Shaping the dough. Cup the
palm of your hand over the piece of
dough and roll it over the work surface
until it gathers into a round boll. Repeat
3 of dough, spaced well apart, on a
greased baking sheet. Cut a small,
shallow cross on top of each roll with a
lightly seasoned crust, brush them with
salted water just before placing them
in a preheated oven, humidified with a
pan of water. Spraying at five-minute
the process with each piece. single-edged razor blade. Cover the
rolls with plastic w rap or a damp cloth intervals, bake the rolls at 450° F. [230°
and let them rise for 20 to 30 minutes, C.] for 15 to 20 minutes, until they are
until they have doubled in volume. well b rowned. Cool them on a wire ra ck.

Knots: Tying Ropes of Dough

Tying the knots. Tie each rope of Baking the knots. To give the rolls

3
Rolling the dough. Divide a risen

l d ough into equal portions, each about

the size of a small lemon. Exerting an
even pressure with both hands, roll each
2 dough into a loose knot. Place the
knotted rolls on a greased baking
sheet, cover them with plastic w rap or a
damp cloth and let them rise until
a shiny crust, glaze them with a mixture
of egg and water. Bake the rolls in a
preheated and humidified 450° F.
[230° C.] oven for 15 to 20 minutes,
portion back and forth on the work
surface to form a rope 12 to 15 inches [30 doubled in volume - 20 to 30 minutes. spraying them with an atomizer at five-
to 40 em. ] long and Y2 inch [1 em. ] thick. minute intervals. When evenly
browned, cool the rolls on a wire rack.

27
BASIC YEAST BREADS

Parker House Rolls: Folding for a Double Crust

Shaping the rolls. Punch d own a

l
Glazing the rolls. Place the rolls Baking the rolls. Spraying with
risen dough and, with a rolling pin, roll it
Y2 inch [1 em.] thick. Using a floured
3 Y2 -inch [9-cm.] biscuit cutter, cut the
2 on a greased baking sheet, cover them
with plastic wrap o r a damp cloth and
let them rise in a w a rm, draft-free place
3 water at five-minute intervals, bake the
rolls in a preheated and humidified
450° F. [230o C.] oven fo r about
sheet into rounds. Brush melted b utter for 20 to 30 minutes. For a velvety 15 minutes, or until they are evenly
on each round and crease it across the finish, brush the tops with melted butter. browned. Transfer the rolls to a wire rack
center with a knife. Fold each ro ll at to cool for five minutes before serving.
the crease. Gather up the trimmings,
flatten them and cut more rounds.

Cloverleaf Rolls: Joining Small Balls of Dough

~-

Baking the rolls. Bake the rolls in a

l 3
Shaping the rolls. Push up a Cooling the rolls. Remove the pan
wa lnut-sized portion of risen d ough
between you r thumb and index fing er
and pinch the portion off. Press three
2 preheated, humidified 450° F. [230° C.]
oven fo r about 15 minutes, spraying
regularly with w ater, until the tops are
from the oven and set it aside until the
rolls are cool enough to handle -
about two to three minutes. (Leaving
such portions into each greased cup golden brown. To soften the crusts them longer in the pan would trap
of a muffin pan. Cover, and set the pan in further and give them a lustrous sheen, condensi ng steam and make them
a warm, draft-free place; let the d ough brush the hot ro lls w ith milk o r cream. moist.) Pluck the rolls from the pan to cool
rise for 20 to 30 minutes, until it reaches further on a wire rack before serving.
just a bove the tops of the cup s.

28
A Middle Eastern Bread with a Pocket for Stuffing

When risen yeast dough is rolled or pat-

ted very thin before rising, it produces
loaves offlatbread, usually no more than
%inch [1 em.] high, with thick crusts and
chewy interiors. Among the most prized
of these flatbreads is the Middle Eastern
pita demonstrated here. As it bakes, pita
inflates and a hollow pocket forms inside
each loaf. When it cools, the pita loses its
puff, but the pocket remains to be opened
and stuffed-with meat, cheese or any
sandwich or salad mixture.
For loaves that will inflate fully,pita is
made with a variation ofbasic dough that
includes some gluten flour for extra resil-
ience, and olive oil to keep the bread
moist (recipe, page 96). To inflate the
dough quickly, pita is baked in an oven
preheated to at least 475° F. [250° C.]- Rolling. Shape risen dough into a Baking. Slide the ba king sheet onto
some cooks prefer 550° F. [290° C.]-and
the loaves are given added oven spring by
starting the baking on the bottom shelf.
l 14-inch [35-cm.] cylinder and slice it into
14 rounds. Let the rounds rise until
they have d oubled in volume, then roll
them into disks % inch [6 mm.] thick.
2 the lowest shelf of a preheated 475o F.
[250° C.] oven. When the loaves
inflate, after about four or five minutes,
Because the oven is so hot, the loaves rise move the baking sheet to the top shelf
Set the disks on a baking sheet sprinkled of the oven and continue to bake the
within five minutes and cook in a total of with cornmea l or semolina; cover and loaves until they are crisped and
10 minutes; there is no need to humidify let them rise until they increase in volume browned - another five minutes or so.
the oven or spray the bread with water. by about half- 20 to 30 minutes.

Serving. After they are baked, wrap

the loaves in a dry towel, covered with a
damp towel, to soften them as they
cool. Serve them from a napkin-lined
basket (left). At the table, let each
diner split his loaf open by hand (inset)
and spread it with butter or stuff it w ith
meat or cheese for a sandwich.

29
BASIC YEAST BREADS

Crisp Snacks from Strips of Dough

The Pretzel Maker's Loop
The crispiest of breads are made from
strips of dough so thin that after baking
they are composed mainly of crust-and
even the inside is dry and crunchy. These
strips can be baked plain or fashioned
into. many shapes, such as the looped
pretzels demonstrated at right or the
twisted bread sticks shown opposite.
Traditionally, the strips of dough for
pretzels are rolled out progressively from
small balls (Step 1, right). So much han-
dling may cause excess gluten to develop;
if a strip becomes elastic or tears, let it
relax, under a cover to prevent drying,
for five to 10 minutes.
A quicker way of making strips is to
roll out a thick dough sheet with a pin
and then slice the sheet (Step 1, opposite).
Generally, these cut, flat-sided strips are
left as is or twisted into bread sticks, but
Rolling out the dough. Mix and knead basic bread dough
they can also be used for pretzels.
Regardless of their shape, small, thin
breads are commonly garnished before
baking, with coarse salt or with seeds
l and let it rise once(poges 14-1 5). Cut the dough into sma ll pieces.
Shape each piece into a ball about 2Y2 inches [6 em.) in
diameter. Roll each ball back and forth beneath your fingers,
moving your hands along the length of the emerg ing cyl inder to
such as cumin, caraway, fennel or anise. keep it even. Continue working the doug h until it is about Y2 inch [1
Such piquant additions make the breads em.) thick and 16 to 18 inches [40 to 45 em.) long.
particularly suitable as snacks.
In order to achieve the dense texture
that many cooks favor in these breads,
the pieces are often baked just after shap-
ing, without a final rising. For a lighter
result, the shaped dough can be allowed
to rise briefly-20 minutes at most. To
emphasize their crunchiness, the breads
are baked in a dry oven, without the hu-
midifying pan and sprayings that most
loaves or rolls require.

Baking and serving. Bake the

4 pretzels in a preheated 450° F. [230° C.)

oven for about 15 minutes, until they
are golden b rown. Transfer the pretzels
to a wire rack to cool for at least
10 minutes; serve them either slightly
warm or cooled to room temperature.

30
 Garnishing the dough. For lighter-textured pretzels, cover

2
Shaping the dough. Curve each strip of dough into a brood
horseshoe shape with the ends pointing toward you. Twist the ends
around each other and rest them on the resulting loop of dough.
Tronsfer the pretzel to a baking sheet that has been lightly greased,
3 them with a cloth and let them rise for 10 to 20 minutes. Beat on egg
with a little water and brush this gloze over each pretzel. Sprinkle
the pretzels with coarse salt or a light coot of aromatic seeds.
or sprinkled with cornmeal o r semolina.

A Simple Twist for Bread Sticks

Twisting the strips. Sprinkle the Baking and serving. Bake the

3
Cutting dough strips. Mix and

l knead basic bread dough, let it rise and

knead it into a ball (pages 14-15). On
a lightly floured work surface, use a
2 work surface with coarse salt, and lay a
strip of dough on top of the salt. Place
a hand at ea ch end of the strip. Slide one
strips in a preheated 450o F. [230° C.J
oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until they
are golden brown. Transfer the baked
rolling pin to flatten the boll gently into han d forward and the other back bread sticks to a wire ro ck and cool
a 9-by- 12-inch [23-by-30-cm.] oblong simultaneously to twist the strip and coat them for about 10 minutes. Serve them
about % inch [1 em.] thick. With a it with salt. Place the strips on a worm or fully cooled.
long, sharp knife, cut the dough across its greased baking sheet.
width into %-inch [1 -cm.] strips.

31
-----~--

~nriched
Yeast GJ3reads
~uxurious Effects
from Eggs and ~utter

Molding a freestanding ring When eggs and butter are used as enrichments, a yeast-leavened loaf
Deep frying doughnuts takes on cakelike qualities. Eggs make the bread taste richer and supply
A unique rising sequence for brioche structure-building protein, producing a loaf that rises higher and keeps
How to add butter in layers
better than basic yeast bread. But egg whites tend to dry out a dough as
they coagulate during baking. Butter compensates for this drying-and
Danish pastries and coffeecakes
it also softens the gluten. This softened gluten offers less resistance as
the gas produced by the yeast inflates the dough. Thus the bread doubles
in volume faster than one containing no butter.
Depending on the quantities of eggs and butter used-and also on
how they are incorporated-the transformations in the finished bread
can range from subtle to dramatic. Even a small amount of egg and
butter will endow bread with a soft crust and a moist, yellow interior. As
the amounts of egg and butter increase, these characteristics become
more pronounced: The peerless brioche (pages 40-43), one of the crown-
ing triumphs of French cooking, has a silken texture and an incom-
parable golden hue.
Because the fat in eggs and butter can inhibit the initial formation of
the gluten by creating a barrier between the flour and liquid in a dough,
enriched doughs are generally made in two stages: First the yeast, liquid
and some of the flour are mixed and set in a warm, draft-free place to rise,
then the rest of the flour and eggs and butter are added. In the case of an
enriched-dough variant called yeast puff dough, however, barriers of fat
play a vital role. To make yeast puff, risen dough is rolled out, then
spread with butter and folded to form layers. In the oven, while the yeast
inflates the dough, the butter melts to keep the layers separate, creating
a light, flaky effect. Yeast puff dough is used for a host of delicate breads,
including croissants (pages 44-46) and Danish pastries (pages 47-51).
A sugar-dusted ring of yeast puff Except for yeast puff dough, most enriched doughs can be baked in
coffeecake is sliced for serving. To form pans or shaped into any of the simple loaves and rolls demonstrated in
the ring, the dough sheet was first
rolled around a filling of currants and
the preceding chapter. More often, however, they receive further culi-
cinnamon sugar, then looped into a nary elaboration. They can be curved into rings (pages 34-35), or filled
circle and cut deep at l-inch [2 Y2 -cm.] with preserves for jelly doughnuts (pages 36-37). And they can be rolled
intervals around its circumference. around nuts or cooked fruits for that cherished American breakfast
Before baking, alternate sections were
flipped inward to give the coffeecake treat, coffeecake, which actually is not a cake at all, but an enriched,
an unusual serrated look (page 51) . sweetened yeast bread (pages 38-39).
33
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS

A Two-Stage Strategy for Mixing Dough

Whole eggs and a generous addition of hour. In the second stage-when the ris-
butter turn a basic yeast dough into a ing and gluten formation are well under
rich bread with a tender crust and light, way-eggs, butter and more flour are
cakelike interior. However, th e incorpo- added to make the dough.
ration of such a large amount of fat de- Because simple egg dough is consider-
mands special tactics for mixing. If all of ably softer than basic bread dough, it is
the ingredients were combined in one op- kneaded more gently. To keep the butter
eration, the fat from the egg yolks and from being melted by the warmth of your
butter would envelop some or a ll of the hands, which would make the dough oily
yeast cells, sealing them off from the and difficult to h a ndle, knead on a cool
flour they require for nourishment. Si- work surface-ideally, a marble slab. If
multaneously, the fat would envelop the the butter does begin to melt, refrigerate
flour particles, shutting out the liquid the dough for half an hour; then knead it
they need to form gluten. until it is smooth and elastic.
To allow both the yeast and the gluten After the dough has risen and has been
to begin their development unhindered, kneaded into a ball (page 15, Step 7), it
simple egg-bread dough should be pre- can be shaped into loaves or rolls (pages
pared in two stages, as demonstrated 18-28) or formed into the ring shown
here (recipe, page 164). In the first stage, here. Because of its delicacy and rich-
Making the sponge. Stir yeast
a preliminary batter-called a sponge
because of its porous texture-is made
from yeast, milk and a small amount of
ness, the dough is baked at a lower tem-
perature-usually 350° to 400° F. [180°
to 200° C.]-and for a longer time than a
basic dough would be. The high moisture
l and a little sugar into tepid milk in a large
mixing bowl, and put the bowl aside
for 10 minutes. When the yeast foams,
flour. Sugar provides extra nourishment add a few handfuls of flour and whisk
for the yeast. After it is whisked vigor- content of egg-bread dough makes it un- vigorously to form a thick batter. Cover
ously, the sponge is left to rise until necessary to humidify the oven or spray the bowl and let th is sponge rise in a
doubled in volume-usually within an the bread with water during baking. warm, d raft-free place until it doubles in
volume. W hisk in whole eggs.

Enlarging the ring. Supporting

6
Forming a ring. Put the dough into a large bowl, cover it and

5 set it in a warm place. Let the dough rise for at least one and one
half hours, until it is three or four times its original volume. Punch
down the dough and put it on a cool, lightly floured surface; knead
it into a ball (page 15, Step 7). Let it restfor 10 minutes. Press two
both sides of the ring, transfer it by hand
to a lightly buttered baking sheet. Pat
and stretch the dough into an even ring
shape. Cover the dough w ith a large,
fingers through the middle of the ball(above, left) and make gentle, inverted bowl and let it rise for about
circular movements to enlarge the hole. With both hands, stretch 45 minutes, until doubled in volume.
the dough from inside the hole to form a ring (above, right) . If the
dough tears or resists stretching, cover it and let it rest for about
10 minutes before tryi ng again.

34
 4
Softening the butter. To make the Adding butter and flour. Break Kneading the dough. Press the

2 butter creamy enough to incorporate into

the dough, place it on a cool work
surface- in this case, marble- and
3 the butter into small pieces a nd toss them
into the sponge. Gradually add flour
with one hand and mix it into the sponge
heel of one hand into the center of the
dough and gently push forward. Then
fold the extended section o f dough back
press it with the heel of one hand. Push with the other hand to make a fairly over the mass. Turn the dough slightly
forward, then gather up the butter and firm - but only roughly blended - and begin the process again. Continue
repeat the process until it is pliable, dough. Transfer the dough to a cool, kneading until the dough is shiny and
but not soft and oily. lightly floured surface. elastic- 10 to 15 minutes.

7
Baking and serving. Glaze the
dough ring with a mixture of beaten egg
and water. Bake the ring in a preheated
400° F. [200° C.] oven for 50 to 60
minutes, until the bread is evenly
browned. Cool the ring on a wire rack;
serve it warm or cold, in wedges.

35
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS

Doughnuts: The Classic Deep-fried Bread

Simple egg-bread dough makes the most at the correct temperatures. If the dough rounds demonstrated below. Other popu-
delicately textured base for yeast dough- is warmer than about 80° F. [25° C. ], the lar shapes include little balls (made from
nuts. The dough is deep fried rather than oil will penetrate its pores too deeply, the centers of the rings and whimsica l-
baked, and the cooking is completed so making the doughnuts greasy; on the ly named doughnut holes), the twisted
rapidly that the doughnuts emerge crisp, other hand, cold dough will inflate slowly strips often called crullers and the slotted
puffed and tender-and without a trace and burn before it cooks through. rectangles known as long johns.
of greasiness inside or out. The oil must be heated to 375° F. [190° For extra richness, buttermilk, sour
Several processes are at work during C.] and kept at a constant temperature. If cream or yogurt can replace the milk in
cooking. As soon as the doughnuts are the oil cools, the dough will absorb too the dough (recipes, pages 154-159) . The
plunged into hot oil, microscopic pores in much before its pores close; overheated flavor can be enhanced by spices, grated
their surface admit the oil to help heat oil will burn the crusts before the dough citrus peel or bits of nuts. With filled
the dough through quickly and stimulate has cooked fully. In order to ma intain an doughnuts, the range of variations is ex-
the production of carbon dioxide. Within even temperature when the doughnuts tended. Although jelly would melt in the
seconds the dough inflates by as much as are a dded, the oil must be about 4 inches heat offrying and ooze into the oil, a light
50 per cent. Then, as the interior t'eaches [10 em.] deep. Monitor its temperature egg-white wash will bind the two layers
160° F . [70° C.], the starches in the dough with a deep-frying thermometer and fry of dough together well enough to safely
stiffen, h alting its expansion while form- the doughnuts in batches of two or three. hold any firm, thick jam, fruit butter,
ing a firm support for the inflated bread. To ensure rapid frying, the doughnuts marmalade or conserve.
Simultaneously the surface dries, closing should be made from dough rolled not As a finishing touch, fried and drained
the pores, a nd the crust begins to brown. more than 1h inch [1 em.] thick- or 1:4 doughnuts of either type can be dusted
The change of color signals don eness. inch [6 mm.] if they are formed by joining with granulated or confectioners' sugar
Cooking should take only two minutes two layers. The most familiar shapes are while their surfaces are still sufficiently
or so when both the dough and the oil are the rings shown at right and the filled wa rm to absorb, and hold, the granules.

Marking the dough. O n a lightly

l
Filling. Brush lightly bea ten eg g

2
Cutting. Center the glass a bove each
floured surface, roll simple egg-bread
doug h into a sheet about % inch [6
mm.] thick. To prevent the d ough fro m
w hite along the ed ges o f the imprinted
circles. Spoon a hea ping teaspoonful
of fi rm ja m - in this case, raspberry
3 jam mound and push the ri m of the glass
firmly through both layers of dough. The
rim wi ll press the layers together, sea ling
rising wh ile you work, prick the sheet jam - o nto the ce nter of each ci rcle. the m a s it cuts. Pull aw ay the excess
a ll over with a fork. On half of the sheet, Carefully lift the remaining half of the dough from outsid e the round s. With a
lightly imprint circles with the flo ured dough sheet and fold it over the ja m- spatu la, put the d oughnuts on a
rim of a g lass; do not use a cutter lest it dotted ci rcles. The top sheet w ill mound floured cloth, a nd let them rise until
cut th rough the d ough. clearly above each dollop o f jam. doubled - a bo ut 20 minutes.

36
Cutting and Cooking Rings

Cutting. On a floured surface, roll

l 3
Deep frying. In a heavy pot, heat

2
Garnishing. Drain the doughnuts
simple egg-bread dough (pages 34-35) 4 inches [10 em.] of oil to 375o F. [190° on paper towels or on a rack set over
Y2 inch [1 em.] thick. Press a floured C.]. Using a skimmer dipped into the paper towels. When the doughnuts
doughnut cutter firmly through the dough oil to prevent sticking, pick up one ring at are cool enough to touch, after about five
to cut rings. Pick out the centers and peel a time and slide it into the pot. Fry the minutes, dust them with confectioners'
away excess dough. Using o spatula, set doughnuts for one and one half minutes sugar - here, sprinkled from a dredger.
the rings on a fl oured cloth to rise until to brown one side, then turn them and Serve the doughnuts warm or cooled
doubled - about 30 minutes. brown the other side for 45 seconds. to room temperature.

Deep frying and serving. In a

4 heavy pot, heot4 inches [lOcm.] of oil to

375° F. [190° C.]. Using on oiled
skimmer(Step 2, above), slide two or
three doughnuts into the pot. Brown
the doughnuts for about one and one
half minutes on one side, 45 seconds
on the other side. Drain them on paper
towels for about five minutes, then roll
the doughnuts in sugar.

37
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS

Buns that Feature a Spiral of Sweetness

The richness and fine texture of simple

egg-bread dough make it a pleasing vehi-
cle for a sweet filling. The risen dough
need only be flattened, spread with fill-
ing and rolled into a tight cylinder.
Such a cylinder can be baked as is, to
produce a spiral loaf, or it can be sliced to
yield buns. For the sticky buns demon-
strated at right, the slices are set side by
side in cake pans that have been coated
with a syrup mixture (recipe, page 130).
During rising and baking, the slices meld
together while the syrup turns to cara-
mel, glossing and flavoring the buns. Al-
ternatively, the slices can be further cut
with kitchen shears and spread into fans
(box, below).
The filling must be soft enough to
Rolling a cylinder. Lift the long

2
Spreading the filling. Punch
spread easily on the delicate dough, but
dry enough so that it does not leak. Here,
the buns are filled with brown sugar, rai-
sins and cinnamon. Other combinations
l down risen dough and set it on a lightly
floured surface. Using a rolling pin,
flatten the dough into a 10-by-18-inch
edge of the rectangle with your hands
and curl it over the filling. Pressing the
dough tightly w ith both hands, roll the
[25-by-45-cm.] rectangle about rectangle into a compact cylinder.
can be assembled from white or maple % inch [6 mm.] thick. Brush melted butter
sugar, candied fruits, nuts, poppy seeds over it and sprinkle it with a mixture of
and spices such as ginger or nutmeg. brown sugar, cinnamon and raisins.
Lightly roll the filling into the dough.

l Cutting the dough. Cut a filled

cylinder (Step 3, above) into slices 2 Glazing the buns. Cover the fans
with a damp cloth and let them rise until 3 Baking and serving. Bake the
buns in a preheated 350° F. [180° C. ]
2% inches [6 em.] thick. With kitchen doubled in bulk- about 45 minutes. oven for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden
shears, make two cuts in the side of each Using a pastry brush, glaze the buns with brown. With a spatula, lift the buns onto a
slice, snipping about two thirds of the a mixture of egg yolk and water. rack to cool for a t least 10 minutes;
way through the dough (left). Fan out the serve warm or at room tempera ture.
three sections (right) and set the buns
well apart on a buttered baking sheet.

38
 Slicing. With o sharp knife, cut the

3 cylinder into slices oboutl inch [2Y2 em.]

thick. If the warmth of your kitchen has
mode the dough too soft to cut neatly,
refrigerate the cylinder for 20 minutes.

Baking. Coot two 9-inch [23-cm.]

4 layer-cake pans with a mixture of light

corn syrup, brown sugar and melted
butter. Put the dough slices edge to edge
in the pans, cover, and let the slices
rise until doubled - about 45 minutes.
Bake in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.]
oven for 25 minutes, until golden brown.

5
Serving. To cool the buns, first place
an inverted wire rack over the pan.
Holding the rack and pan together at
the sides with potholders or a fo lded
towel, flip the assembly over onto a
plate. The plate will catch any dripping
caramel. Lift off the pan. Let the buns
cool for at least 10 minutes before
serving on another plate.

39
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS

The Golden Glory of Brioche

Brioche is the richest of all yeast breads:

For every 4 cups [1 liter] of flour in its
dough, it may include as much as 1 pound
[Yz kg.] of butter and six or more eggs
(demonstration, right; recipe, page 165).
Brioche also takes longer to produce than
any other type of enriched bread-from
12 to 14 hours in all. However, most of
this time is taken up by three long, un-
hurried risings, which improve the flavor
of brioche and give it a silky texture that
matches its richness.
As is the case with many egg-and-
butter breads, the preparation of brioche
begins with assembling a preliminary,
butter-free dough from flour, yeast and
eggs. The large number of eggs used
makes the dough exceptionally soft with-
out the addition of any other liquid. Be-
~y
cause of its softness, the dough spreads ..
out as it is kneaded, and a dough scraper Mixing a preliminary dough. Put flour, sugar and salt into
must be used to gather it back up. When
the dough is smooth and elastic, the
scraper is used to fold in butter. Like
l a large mixing bowl. M ix yea st with a little tepid water(page 10).
M ake a well in the center o f the flour and pour in the yeast
mixture. Break eggs into the well; with you r fingers, break the yolks
most bread doughs, brioche dough is left and combine the eggs with the yeast. Stir the ingredients by
hand, pulling in the flour from the sides to make a loose dough.
in a warm place for its first rising. Then it
is punched down to expel any large gas
bubbles, ensuring a fine texture.
Refinement of texture is also one of the
objects of the second (and longest) rising.
During this rising, the dough is refriger-
ated. The cold slows down the yeast's pro-
duction of carbon dioxide, so the gas
stretches the dough's gluten meshwork
gently. The cold also firms the dough,
making it easy to shape when risen.
Brioche dough can be baked in almost
any size or shape, freestanding or in a
baking pan or mold. In the demonstra-
tion here and on the following pages, the
dough is molded into a single, large-
sized version of the traditional topknot-
ted form known as brioche a tete -liter-
ally, "brioche with a head." Once shaped
or put into any mold, the dough must be
set aside to warm to room temperature
during its third and final rising.
\
Brioche is best eaten warm so that its
buttery flavor and fine texture can be ful-
Folding in butter. Soften butter by pressing it with the heel of
ly appreciated. But it also may be served
cold; with its moistness and high fat con-
tent, it will keep for several days.
3 your hand (page 35, Step 2). Pull the ends of the kneaded dough
slightly apart and nestle a small piece of the softened butter in
the center (above, left). With a dough scraper, fold the butter and
dough together, scraping and lifti ng with an up-and-over
motion (right). Continue in this way, gradually adding small pieces
of butter to the dough, until all of the butter is incorpo rated.

40
 Kneading the dough. Turn the dough out onto a cool work

2 surface - in this demonstration, a marble slab. Pull up the dough

with one hand(above, left) and slap it back down o nto the surface.
Knead vigoro usly in this manner for about 10 minutes, until the
dough is elastic and pulls freely from your hand. As the dough
spreads, use a dough scraper to pull it together again (right). If the
dough is too loose to cohere, work in a little sifted flour.

4 Blending. Knead the dough with

one hand until it is blended - two to three
minutes - while using the dough
scraper with your other hand to gather
5 Punching the dough. With your fist, punch the dough
several times to compact it in the bottom of the bowl and expel
excess gas. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate it
for six to eight hours, until the dough has doub led in volume . ..,.
up the dough as it spreads. Put the
dough into a bowl, cover, and let the
dough rise a t room temperature for
three to four hours, until tripled in volume.

41
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS

6
Indenting the dough. With three

7
Shaping the dough. Transfer the dough to a cool, lightly
floured work surface. W ith a knife, cut off about one quarter of the fingers held close together, press down
dough and set it aside. Knead the larger piec~ into a ball (page into the center of the large piece of
15, Step 7) and put it into a well-buttered, fluted brioche mold with a dough until your finger tips touch the
capacity of twice the dough's volume. Shape the smaller piece bottom of the mold. Enlarge the cavity
of dough into a ball, then rest one side of the ball against one hand by moving your hand in a circle until the
and roll the dough back and forth over the work surface with hole is slightly larger than the tapered
your other hand to make a tapered, teardrop shape (above). end of the smaller piece of dough.

9 10
Glazing the dough. Beat an eg g yolk with a little water. Baking and unmolding. After 10 minutes, reduce the oven
Brush the mixture over the surface of the dough, taking care to heat to 375° F. [190° C.], then bake for 30 minutes more. If the
avoid the seam between the topknot and the base so that the brioche browns too quickly, cover it with foil. To test for
topknot can rise during baking. For a p ronounced and even glaze, doneness, insert a wooden pick or thin metal skewer into the
let the surface dry for several minutes, then brush the d ough a topknot. The pick o r skewer should come out dry; if not, bake for
second time. Put the brioche in a preheated 425° F. [220o C.J oven. 10 minutes more and test again. To unmold, invert the brioche onto
a cloth held in your palm, then turn the brioche over onto a rack.
42
 Assembling the brioche. Lift up the small piece of <;laugh

8 and lower its tapered end into the cavity(above, left). Its rounded
end will form a small head, or topknot, on the larger piece of
doug h. Pat the topknot with the fingers of both hands(right) to give
it an even shape. Cover the filled mold with a large inverted
bowl or a cloth, and let the dough rise in a warm place for about
one and one half hours, until it has doubled in volume.

Serving the brioche. Let the

ll brioche cool for 15 minutes, then put it on

a slicing board, as here, or a serving
plate. Cut the brioche into wedges and
serve it plain or with butter.

43
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS

Interleaving with Butter for Flaky Layers

Yeast dough interleaved with thin layers

of butter produces a variety of delectable
breads that puff higher than any other
yeast bread. During baking, the mois-
ture in this yeast puff dough turns to
steam. The folded-in butter keeps the
layers of dough separate, holding in the
steam so that the bread balloons as it
bakes. Finally, the dough dries out and
its layers become light flakes. Among the
breads made from this dough are crois-
sants, French breakfast favorites; the art
of making them is demonstrated here
and on page 46. Other, more complex
shapes are shown on pages 47-51.
The prepara tion of yeast puff dough
(recipe, page 166) begins with mixing
dough- moistened in this case with milk
rather than water-kneading it, letting
Adding butter. Prepare d o ugh,

l
it rise twice and then rolling it thin. This Folding the dough. Fo ld the
sheet is spread with softened butter, fold-
ed in thirds to enclose the butter, rolled
to compress the layers and folded once
substituting milk for wa te r, and let it rise
twice. Roll out the dough into a rectangle
Y2 inch [1 em. ] thick a nd three times as
2 unbuttered third of the rectangle over
half of the buttered dough. Then bring
over the remaining buttered section to
long as it is wid e. Soften butter(poge 35) cover these two layers.
again. To assure the dough enough lay- and spread it with a narrow metal
ers to puff up ha ndsomely, the folding spatula over two thirds the length of the
and rolling must be repeated at least rectangle, leaving a % -inch [2-cm.]
once-more often if you wish. Each rep- margin a ro und the ed ges.
etition triples the number of butter lay-
ers. The dough shown here has 54 layers
of butter between 55 layers of dough.
Because the yeast puff dough under-
goes so much handling, care must be tak-
en not to overdevelop the gluten: The ini-
tial kneading should be lighter than for
an ordinary bread, and the dough must
be given a n hour to relax after each se-
quence of rolling and folding. During the
rest periods, the dough should be covered
so that the surfaces do not dry out, and
refrigerated so that the butter stays firm
enough to separate the layers.
Handling the dough is best done on a
cool work surface, such as marble. If you
have only a laminated plastic counter,
cool it with an ice bag before placing the
dough on it. A breadboard-the least
satisfactory surface-can be chilled in
the refrigerator or freezer.

5
Folding the dough. Remove the dough from the refrigerator.
After a final rolling, the dough is ready Place it on the work surface with one of its short sides facing you.
to be cut and shaped. For croissants, tri- Ro ll out the d ough into a long recta ng le again, and fold it in
angles of dough are rolled up tight and thirds(obove, left). Give it a quarter turn, roll it out into a rectangle
a nd fold the dough o nce more (right). Cover the dough ag ain
curled into crescents, then left to rise.
a nd chill it for a nother hour.
The baking should begin at a very high
heat to give impetus to oven spring (page
16), then proceed at a lower temperature
to keep the exter iors from burning.
44
 Turning and rolling the dough. Give the layered package

4
Sealing the edges. With a rolling

3 pin, lightly press tog ether the three open

sides of the layered pa ckage. The
g entle pressure wi ll seal in the soft butter
and keep it from oozing out when the
a q uarter turn . Roll out the dough lightly (above, left) - too
much pressure will force o ut the butter - until it becomes a
rectangle abo ut twice a s long as it is wide (right). Fold the dough
into thirds again (Step 2) . Cover the dough with plastic w rap or a
dough is rolled again. damp cloth and chill it for an hour in the refrigerator.

7
Cutting out triangles. With the

6
Trimming the dough. Roll out the layered dough abou t
Ya inch [3 mm.] thick. Using a dough scraper(above, left) or a small dough scraper o r kn ife, mark points
knife, and guiding the blade with a ruler if necessary, trim the about 6 inches [15 em. ] apart on
sides of the dough to make a neat rectangle. Divide the rectangle the long edges of the two strips, sta rting
lengthwise into strips about 6 inches [15 em. ] wide (above, right) . 3 inches [8 em.] from one end. Make
diagonal crossing cuts between the
marks to produce triangles. ~

45
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS

Shaping the croissants. Gently separate one triangle from

8 the rest and place it with its base - the shortest side - toward you.
Elongate the triangle slightly by rolling it away from yourself with
a rolling pin. Gently stretch the corners of the base so they are well
defined (left) . Starting at the base, roll up the triangle tightly
(center). Tuck the tip just under the roll: The tip will emerge during
baking. Curl the ends of the rol l in to fo rm a crescent (right) .

9
Glazing the croissants. Place the
croissants on a buttered baking sheet,
leaving at least 1 inch [2 Y2 em.]
between them. Cover them with a damp
cloth and let them rise until they have

10
doubled in volume- about one hour at Baking and serving. Place the baking sheet of croissants on
70o F. [30° C.] or overnight in the the middle shelf of a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven; after two
refrigerator. Mix a beaten egg yolk with a minutes, reduce the heat to 375o F. [190° C.] and bake for an
little water and brush this glaze over additional1 5 to 20 minutes, until the croissants turn a golden
the croissants, taking care not to drip it brown. Cool them o n a wire rack fo r 10 to 15 minutes, then serve
onto the baking sheet. them warm in a napkin-lined basket. Pull them apart to eat them.

46
The Art of Shaping Danish Pastries
Envelopes Enclosing Almond Paste
Fanciful shapes that are cut and folded
from yeast puff dough will increase in in-
tricacy as the paper-thin layers of dough
rise and separate in the oven. Fillings,
glazes and toppings add to the appeal of
such breads-referred to collectively as
Danish pastries (recipe, page 133). The
four Danish pastries demonstrated here
and on the next two pages show a few of
the many possibilities.
Envelopes (right) are formed by fold-
ing the corners of a rolled-out square over
a spoonful of filling. The same squ ares
can yield pinwheel shapes when they are
cut and folded in a different way (over-
leaf). The two other pastries demonstrat-
ed on the following pages-cockscombs
and twists- are made from dough that is
filled before it is shaped.
In the making of any Danish pastry,

2
Mixing an almond paste. Sift Dividing the dough. Prepare a
the dough is handled extensively. This
tends to melt the layers of butter-and
the small size of the pastries increases
l superfine and confectioners' sugar into
a bowl. Add ground blanched
almonds and grate in a little lemon peel.
yeast puff dough (pages 44-45, Steps
1-5). On a cold, lightly floured work
surface, roll the dough to a thickness of
about% inch [6 mm .]. Trim the edges
Stir the ingredients with a spoon. Beat
the hazard. To keep the layers of butter with a dough scraper or sharp knife to
egg whites lightly and add them to the
intact, the dough must stay very cold: mixture, stirring until the ingredients make a neat rectang le, a nd cut the
Unless your kitchen is air-conditioned, are amalgamated into a stiff paste. rectangle into 5-inch [ 12-cm.] squares.
do not make Danish pastries in the sum-
mer. And until you are adept at rolling
and folding, rechill the dough frequently,
even if you have to stop work on a batch of
pastries that are only partially shaped.
Some cooks rechill the dough in t he freez-
er-10 minutes is usually sufficient-
rather than in the refrigerator; if you use
this shortcut, take care not to let the
dough freeze solid.
The filling for any shape of dough can
be as simple as a handful of dried cur-
rants or of grated hard cheese. Richer,
moister fillings include sausage meat, al-
mond paste (recipe, page 165) or a mix-
ture of egg and soft cheese.
Both sweet and savory pastries are
usually brushed before baking with a
glaze of egg yolk and water. Sweet ones
a lso may be topped after baking with a
dusting of sugar, a coat of strained jam or
a sprinkling of chopped nuts.

4
Baking and serving. Cover with

3
Shaping the envelopes. Spoon a
dollop of almond paste onto the center of plastic wrap or a damp cloth and let the
each square. Fold in o ne corner of the envelopes rise until almost doubled -
square to the center of the filling; fold in about one hou r. Glaze the pastries with
the opposite corner to overlap the first. egg yolk and water; put them in a
Repeat these folds with the other two preheated 425o F. [220o C.J oven. After
corners, then seal the package by two minutes, lower the heat to 375° F.
pressing the center with a finger. Put the [190° C.J. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until
envelopes on a buttered baking sheet. brown. Cool, and dust with sugar.

47
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS

Almond-filled Pinwheels

2 3
Cutting squares. Roll yeast puff

1
Shaping the pinwheels. Fold Baking and cooling. Beat egg yolk
dough into a sheet % inch [6 mm.] thick alternate points of dough over the filling. with a little water, and gloze the pastries
and cut it into 5-inch [12-cm.] squares. Lightly press the center of the pastry to with this mixture. Bake them in a
With a dough scraper or a sharp knife, stick the overlapping points together. preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven for two
cut a diagonal line from each corner Place the shaped pastries on a minutes; reduce the heat to 375o F.
to about Y2 inch [1 em.] from the center of buttered baking sheet and cover them. [190oC.] and bake the pastries for 15 to
the square. Place a teaspoonful of Let them rise for about one hour, until 20 minutes, until golden brown. Cool the
filling - in this case, almond paste- on almost doubled in volume. pinwheels on a rack and dust them with
the uncut center of the square. confectioners' sugar before serving.

Twists of Pastry and Jam

--~-.:."1-

Layering dough with filling. Roll yeast puff dough to a

1
Slicing the dough into strips. With a dough scraper or
thickness of Y4 inch [6 mm.] and, using a dough scraper or knife,
trim it into rectangles about 8 by 16 inches [20 by 40 em.]. Heat
jam (this is apricot) and press it through a strainer. Spread a thin
2 knife, slice the layered, jam-filled dough into strips about 1 inch [2 Y2
em.] wide. For a straight line and even slices, you con place a
clean ruler beside the dough to guide your hand as you cut.
Ioyer of the strained jam over the dough, leaving a margin of
about Y2 inch [1 em .] around the edges. Fold in one third of the
dough, then fold the rema ining third over it.

48
Cockscombs with a Savory Center

l 3
Filling the dough. Roll yeast puff Cutting cockscombs. Using a Baking and cooling. Cover the
d o ugh into an 8-by-16-inch [20 -by-40-
cm. ] rectangle, % inch [6 mm.] thick.
Spread filling- here, a cheese mixture
2 dough scraper o r sharp knife, divide the
stuffed strip into four squares. Make
three parallel cuts in the folded side of
pastries and let them rise for about one
hour, until almost doubled in volume.
Glaze them with egg yolk and water, and
(recipe, page 165) - over half the each square, extending each cut to place them in a preheated 425o F.
rectang le's width, leaving Y2 -inch within 1 inch [2 Y2 em. ] of the opposite [220° C.] oven. After two minutes,
[1-cm.] margins a t the ends and side. side. Place the pastries on a buttered red uce the heat to 375o F. [190° C.].
Fold the uncovered half over the fill ing. baking sheet; spread their cut sections so Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until golden
that they resemble cockscom bs. brown. Cool the pastries o n a rack.

4
Twisting the strips. Butter a baking sheet. G ive each strip a Baking and garnishing. Place the pastries in a preheated

3 half twist as you p lace it on the sheet. Cover the twists with plastic
wrap or a damp cloth and let them rise for about o ne hour, until
doubled in volume. Glaze them with egg yolk beaten with water.
425o F. [220° C.] oven for two minutes; reduce the heat to 375° F.
[1 90° C.] and bake for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the twists are
golden brown. Place the pastries on a rack to cool. Brush them with
wa rm, strained jam and sprinkle with chopped wa lnuts.

49
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS

Ingenious Constructions for CoHeecake

A Plait Stuffed with Cheese
Yeast puff dough (recipe, page 166) need
not be used exclusively for small breads.
It also lends itself to filled coffeecakes in
any of a variety of shapes, including the
elaborate braid and the intricately twist-
ed ring demonstrated at right.
To make the braid, the long sides of a
rectangle of dough are cut into a diagonal
fringe of narrow strips, which are then
crisscrossed over a filling. To make the
ring, the dough-spread with a filling-
'\
is rolled into a tight cylinder and curved
into a circle. The circle is then deeply
notched from the outer edge, and alter-
nate sections are flipped inward.
The choice of filling will depend on
whether or not it can be sealed within the
dough. If the coffeecake has an enclos-
ing pocket, the filling may be moist, a l-

l
Filling and cutting. Roll yeast puff Shaping the ends. Completely
though not so runny that it might make
the dough soggy. A savory combination
of ricotta and Parmesan cheeses (recipe,
dough into a rectang le % inch [6 mm.]
thick. Spread fi lling- in this case,
cheese- down the middle third of the
2 remove the corners that were cut away in
Step 1. Using both hands and working
gently, fold the rectangular end flaps up
page 165) is used for the braid here. rectangle, leaving 2-inch [5-cm.] and over the filling.
Almond-paste or poppy-seed fillings (rec- margins at the ends. Cut out the corners
ipes,page 165) and thick fruit butters or and make slanting cu ts to within % inch
marmalades are other possibilities. [1 em.] of the fi lling at l-inch [2Y2 -cm. ]
With a little extra effort, you also may intervals down the long sides.
create a filling from firm fresh fruits-
whole cranberries or blueberries, sliced
apples, peaches or pears-or from dried A Fruit and Spice Wreath
prunes or apricots. Simmer the fruit un-
til tender in a sugar syrup made with one
and one half parts sugar to one part wa-
ter. Lift out the fruit and boil the syrup
down to a thick glaze; then firm the glaze
with a solution of cornstarch or arrow-
root and water, and pour the glaze over
the fruit. Like any cooked filling, the
glazed fruit must be cooled thoroughly
before it is used.
For a coffeecake in which the filling is
exposed a long cut edges of dough, as in
the ring, the mixture must be a relatively
dry one. To fill the ring, the dough is
slathered with softened butter and sprin-
kled with white sugar, cinnamon and
dried currants. Brown sugar could be
used instead of white sugar, and the cin- Cutting the ring. Place the cylinder

l
Filling the dough. Roll o ut and trim
namon and currants might be replaced
by nutmeg or allspice and chopped nuts
or gr ated fresh orange peel.
yeast puff dough into a rectangle Y4 inch
[6 mm.] thick(page 45) . Spread a thin
layer of filling over the dough with a
2 on a buttered baking sheet, curving the
dough into a ring as you set it down.
With a pair of scissors, cut into the
spatula, leaving an uncovered margin outside ed ge of the ring at l -inch
of Y2 inch [ 1 em.] all around. Sprinkle [2 Y2 -em.] intervals, cutting to within
dried fru its on the filling. Tightly roll the Y2 inch [1 em.] of the inner edge.
dough lengthwise into a cylinder.

50
3
Braiding the tart. Starting at one
end, fold one diagonal strip of dough
over the filling. Cross the opposite

4
Baking. Place the coffeecake on a buttered baking sheet and
strip over the first. Continue to bring strips cover it. Allow it to rise for about one and a ha lf hours. Brush a n
from alternate sides over the filling, egg-yolk-and-water g laze over the cake. Bake in a preheated
forming a braid down the length of the 425° F. (220° C.J oven for two minutes; reduce the heat to 375° F.
cake. Tuck the loose ends o f the last (190° C.] and bake for 20 to 30 minutes longer, o r until golden
pair of strips under the coffeecake. brown. Cool o n a rack, then move the ca ke to a board for slicing.

3
Shaping the ring. Working
around the ring, flip alternate slices

4
inward with one hand while using Baking and serving. Glaze the top of the ring with egg yolk
your other hand to steady the preceding beaten with a little water. Place in a preheated 425° F. [220° C. ]
slice. Cover the twisted ring with a oven; after two minutes, reduce the heat to 375° F. [190oC.] and
large inverted bowl. Let the ring rest for bake the coffeecake for 20 to 30 minutes, unti l golden brown. Place
about one and a half hours. the coffeecake on a wire rack to cool. Let it rest fo r 30 minutes if
you want to serve it warm, longer if you prefer it cool. Garnish the
ring with a liberal dusting of confectioners' sugar.

51
- - - - - 3 --
Special Yeast ~reads
~laborations Subtle
and Substantial

Handling sourdough starter Yeast dough-either basic or enriched-can be embellished and manip-
How to make crumpets ulated in myriad ways to change its flavor, alter its color, modify its
Transforming dough by poaching
texture, incorporate other foodstuffs into it and dress it up for the holi-
days. The various breadmaking strategies of this kind, so wide-ranging
The demands of moist dough
they defy any neat classification, are the subject of this chapter.
Mixing in vegetables
The subtlest, and simplest, methods of modifying dough are to change
Precooked flavorings for pumpernickel its basic ingredients-flour, leavening and liquid-or its cooking proc-
Kneading in fruits and nuts ess. Tangy sourdough loaves, for example, are produced by using sour-
dough starter for baker's yeast or, for especially light loaves, by supple-
menting yeast with starter (page 11). If yeast is augmented with baking
soda and the dough is thinned into a batter that can be cooked on a
griddle, the result is breads with a honeycomb texture (pages 56-57).
Poaching dough before baking it imparts the fine texture characteristic
of bagels (pages 58-59). And using extra liquid in a dough also makes it
possible to produce French loaves with a moist interior (page 61).
More far-reaching effects are achieved by adding sweet or pungent
foodstuffs-as diverse as cheese and molasses-to dough mixtures or
risen doughs. The proper moment for incorporating these ingredients
depends on their consistency and bulkiness. Fresh cheeses and pureed
vegetables or fruits will disperse readily through the dough to color and
flavor it evenly. They will also supply some or all of the necessary liquid
and, therefore, must be added to the flour and yeast when mixing starts
(pages 62-63). Syrupy liquids such as melted chocolate and molasses are
difficult to distribute smoothly; in the dark bread demonstrated on pages
64-65, the problem is solved by blending these flavorings into a warm
cornmeal paste before adding them to the flour mixture. Light, dry ingre-
dients-chopped herbs or grated Parmesan cheese, for example-can
A ball of yeast-leavened dough, scented likewise be added at the start, but their effect will be more pronounced if
with spices and packed with chopped they are kneaded into risen dough (pages 66-67).
almonds, citrus peels, raisins and
currants, is wrapped in a sheet of plain
When introducing a large quantity of dry, bulky ingredients such as
dough large enough to enclose it the fruits and nuts in the Scotch bun opposite, one approach is to knead
completely(demonstration, pages 68-69). them in after the dough has risen once; if added earlier, such ingredients
The dough wrapper helps to keep the would hinder the leavening action of the yeast. Alternatively, the risen
rich interior of the bun moist during
baking and hides it teasingly until the dough can be treated like a platform on which to display sausages, whole
moment of slicing. eggs and the like with a dramatic flourish (pages 70-71).
53
SPECIAL YEAST BREADS

SourdoughleavenforPungency

Using sourdoug h starter in place of-or

in addition to-comm ercial yeast pro-
duces bread with a pungent, subtly acidic
taste. The special flavor is due both to the
extended fermentat ion of sourdough cul-
ture and to the presence of wild yeasts
(and benign bacteria as well).
Like fresh cake yeast, sourdough start-
er must be kept refrigerat ed until it is
needed. Once taken from the cold, starter
must be allowed to warm gradually to
room temperatu re, and it should also be
stirred well to mix the surface liquid with
the pastelike base. The starter is then
ready for use. As a general rule, 2 cups
[lh liter] of active starter is equivalen t to
V-i ounce [7% g.] of dry yeast or % ounce
[18 g.] of fresh yeast-an d can leaven up
to 8 cups [2 liters] of flour. But because Mixing the sponge. Let Replenishing starter. Stir the sponge,
starter does not have a predictab le poten-
cy, it often is augmente d with commer-
cial yeast before use.
1 so urdough sta rter wa rm to room
temperature for four to six hours, o r
until it is bubbly. Stir it well and pour the
2 spoon half of it into the crock o r jar
conta ining the o rig inal starter,
cover and refrigerate. Stir into the
required a mount of starter into a remaining sp onge a dd itional flo ur,
For richer flavor, starter may be com- bowl. Ad d flour a nd tepid w a ter, cover flavorings, a nd yea st that has been
bined with flour and tepid water to nour- w ith plastic w ra p o r a towel, a nd set softened in tepid wa ter. Mix until the
ish and reactivate it. The mixture, called the spo nge in a w a rm place to ferment doug h forms a shag gy ma ss, then turn it
a sourdough sponge (Step 1), ferments for for at least 24 hours. o ut onto a lightly flou red work surface.
24 to 36 hours, then is divided into two
parts. One half is refrigerat ed to serve as
starter for future baking. The other half
is mixed with the rest of the necessary
ingredien ts to make the day's bread.
In this demonstr ation, a basic bread
dough flavored with rye and buckwhea t
flours and bran is formed into a ring-
shaped loaf (recipe, page 108) . A small
mixing bowl keeps the center open as the
ring rises. Although the ring could be
left to rise freestand ing, its unsuppor ted
edges would tend to spread and flatten.
For a plump, perfect ring, a better meth-
od is to control the contours of the loaf
during rising by encasing it in a round,
cloth-line d basket, then turning it out
onto a pizza pan to bake it. The basket
used here is a traditiona l French banne-
ton, available at kitchen-su pply stores.
The risen ring demonstr ated on these
pages is given a flower-like shape by
cutting the dough with a knife. After Transferring the ring. Hold the
baking, the top is further embellish ed
by searing the cuts with a thoroughl y
cleaned and heated sharpenin g steel. Do
6
Rising. C over the basket with plastic
wra p o r a damp cloth, a nd set it in a
wa rm, draft-free place until the dough
d oubl es in volume - abo ut one ho ur.
7 pan and ba sket togethe r, lift the
assembly a nd tu rn it upside down.
Place the baking sheet o n a work
surface, lift o ff the basket a nd remove
not use a good steel; heat will damage it. Remove the plastic o r cloth, and invert
a pizza pan over the basket. the bowl from the center o f the d ough
If you do not have an old steel, use a dis- ring. The top surface of the ring wi ll
carded screwdriv er or other tool with a be coated w ith flou r.
metal blade and a heatproof handle.
54
 Stretching the ring. Reach into the Preparing the basket. Liberally

4
Shaping. Knead the dough, let it rise

3 until doubled - about one and one half

hours - punch it down and gather it
into a ball(pages 14-15) . Flatten the ball
hole from both sides with your hands and
enlarge the hole (above) until the ring
will slip over both wrists. Keeping your
5 dust a large, cloth-lined circu lar basket
with flou r. Invert a small bowl,
greased on its outside surfaces, in the
slightly and pierce a hole in the center forearms horizontal, rotate the dough center of the basket. Carefully lift the
with your fingers. Working in a circle by circling your arms around each other. dough ring and fit it into the basket, with
around the hole, pull outward until the the bowl filling the center of the ring.
hole is large enough to accommodate
both of your hands.

Searing the loaf. Over a gas flame or an electric burner

8 9
Cutting and baking. Starting midway between the center
hole and outside of the ring, saw gently through the dough with a turned to its highest setting, heat an o ld sharpening steel until the
knife to make a radial cut to its outer edge. Repeat to make eight metal is red -hot. Apply the steel to the loaf along each cut mark
cuts in a ll. Tuck in the corners of each cut to form scallops (left). until the flour coating and the crust begin to scorch and a dark line
Make a circu lar cut around the loaf to join the inner tips of the forms. Reheat the steel as necessary to complete the searing.
radial cuts. Bake in a preheated, humidified 400o F. [200° C.) oven
for 15 minutes, at 350° F. [180° C.) for 20 minutes, then at 325° F.
[160° C.] for 15 minutes more- until brown.

55
SPECIAL YEAST BREADS

Crumpets: Airy BaHer Cooked on a Griddle

Thin, pa ncake-like breads are made by

adding enough liquid to a yeast-leavened
mixture to produce a batter instead of a
dough, and then pouring it onto a hot
griddle to cook it quickly.
Obviously, a batter cannot be kneaded:
To develop its gluten, it must be beaten
with vigor. As in a dough, the developed
gluten will form a mesh to tra p the gas
produced by the yeast, thus ma king the
bat ter airy. By also beating in ba king
soda, you can increase the lightness; the
soda reacts with the acids produced by
the yeast to form addit ional gas. There-
sult is a honeycombed bread such as the
crumpets shown here (recipe, page 97) .
To achieve the proper degree of honey-
combing, a crumpet batter should be thin
enough to let some bubbles rise through Mixing the ingredients. Mix yeast with tepid wa ter and let it
during cooking. If none appear , add a lit-
tle more liquid to the rest of the batter.
The batter can be poured directly onto
l stand for l 0 minutes. Put flour and salt in a mixing bowl; if the flou r
has been stored in the refrigerator, warm the dry ingredients for
five minutes in a 200° F. [1 00° C.] oven. Make a well in the center of
a well-seasoned griddle (box, page 76), the dry ingredients, and pour in the yeast mixture and the rest of
the liquid. Steady the bowl with one hand and, w ith your other
but for neat rounds, use met al crumpet hand, combine the ingredients by stirring from the center
rings, available a t kitchen-supply stores. outward (above, left) to produce a loose, lumpy batter (right).

4
Filling the rings. W hile the batter is resting, lightly g rease a
heavy griddle or frying pan, and coat the insides of crumpet rings
with oil. Warm the griddle or pan over low heat and set the rings
on top. Ladle the ba tter into the ri ngs, filling them halfway.
5 Turning the crumpets. Cook the crumpets over low heat
until their surfaces appear dry and are pocked with holes- about
five minutes. Slide a spatula under each crumpet and gently flip
it over with its ring . Cook the other side until it is lightly browned.

56
 Letting the batter rise. Cover the

3
Beating the batter. Tilt the bowl

2 with one hand. With the other hand,

scoop the batter up and slop it
repeatedly against the side of the bowl
bowl with plastic wrap, and put the batter
in a worm place for about on hour,
until it rises to two o r three times its
in a vigorous, rhythmic motion. original volume. Dissolve baking
Continue beating fo r about five minutes, soda in tepid water and mix it into
until the batter is smooth and elastic. the batter. Cover the bowl and let the
batter rest for another hour.

Serving the crumpets. With a

6 spatula, move the crumpets and rings to

a cooling rack. Run the tip of a small
knife around the inside of each ring to
free the bread. Lift away the rings.
Serve the crumpets generously spread
with butter, either still worm from the
griddle or reheated later by toasting.

57
SPECIAL YEAST BREADS

The Double Cooking of Bagels

When a yeast-leavened dough is poached

briefly in boiling water before baking,
the resulting bread will have a dense,
tender interior and a soft, chewy crust.
The most familiar embodiment of such a
transformation is the bagel, which is
shaped as a ring to increase the area of
the special crust.
Bagels can be made from virtually any
yeast dough. In the demonstration here,
a light enrichment of butter and egg
white is added to a basic dough to accen-
tuate the softness of the interior (recipe,
page 103); milk is used as the liquid to
help retard crisping of the crust during
baking. To achieve the full textural den-
sity that marks a good bagel, the dough's
first rising is limited to an hour and, once
shaped, the dough is left to rise again
Stirring in butter. In a small, heavy

l 2
only briefly before cooking. Adding egg white. Pour the milk
pan, heat milk unti l it boils. mixture into a large bowl and let it cool
Shaping perfect rings is a straightfor- Remove the pan from the heat, and until tepid. Stir yeast into tepid water,
ward process: Divide the dough into balls add sugar and butter. Stir until the sugar add it to the milk, and leave the mixture
and use your finger to make and enlarge disso lves and the butter melts. for about 10 minutes, until it is frothy.
a hole in the center of each ball (Step 4). Separate an egg; reserve the yolk to use
The bagels are poached for only about in the glaze and add the white to the
15 seconds. Poaching moistens the outer milk. Stir the mixture vigorously until the
dough and keeps the bagels from crisping ingredients a re well combined.
when they are subsequently baked. Be-
fore baking, the bagels can be brushed
with an egg glaze and, if you like, sprin-
kled with coarse salt, poppy, sesame or
caraway seeds or chopped, lightly sau-
teed onion. Bagels are traditionally eat-
en with cream cheese and smoked salm-
on for a hearty breakfast, or split in half,
toasted and buttered for a lighter one.

5 Poaching the bagels. Heat a

large pot of water until it boils; reduce the
heat to maintain a gentle boil. Using a
perforated skimmer, carefully lower a
few bagels into the water. Poach each
batch, uncovered, for about 15 seconds,
until the bagels begin to puff up .
Lift them out, drain them and transfer
them to a greased baking sheet.

58
 Shaping the dough. Cut the dough into pieces about the

4
Mixing in flou r. Stir salt into the milk

3 mixture. Add flour a handful at a time,

stirring after each addition. When the
dough is cohesive but still soft, turn it
size of small lemons and shape each piece into a neat boll (pages
26-27). To form a ring, first poke your floured forefinger into the
center of a ball(above, left) and work your finger through the dough
out onto a work surface and knead it until it touches the work surface; move your finger in a circle to
(page 15, Steps 3 and 4). Put the dough widen the hole. Twirl the ring until the hole is about one th ird of the
into a bowl, cover it and let it rise in a bagel's diometer(right). Place the bagels on a sheet, cover them
warm place for about 40 minutes, until it with a damp cloth and let them rise for about lO minutes.
has increased in volume by half.

Baking the bagels. Beat the

6 reserved egg yolk with a little cold water,

and brush the mixture over the bagels
(inset). Bake them in a preheated,
humidified 400° F. [200° C.] oven for
about 20 minutes, until golden brown.
With a spatula, transfer the bagels to
a wire rack to cool for at least 10 minutes.

59
SPECIAL YEAST BREADS

A Whole-wheat Loaf that Requires No Kneading

Because it is high in bran content and

low in gluten, whole-wheat flour calls
for special breadmaking methods. For a
light-textured loaf, whole-wheat dough
either must be allowed to rise for six to
eight hours or must be made with a large
proportion of gluten-rich all-purpose or
bread flour. For a dense-textured loaf
such as the one shown here (recipe, page
94), whole-wheat dough must be moist-
ened until it is almost as soft as a bat-
ter-a tactic that not only softens the
bran, but also obviates any kneading.
To speed rising, the bread is made with
more yeast than usual. And the yeast is
nourished with sugar, honey or molasses
so that it begins to grow vigorously be-
fore it is mixed with the flour. Prepared
this way, the yeast will cause the dough
Mixing the dough. In a deep Leveling the loaf. W ith you r hand,

1 2
to rise to half again its original volume in
bowl, soften yeast in a little tepid w ater lightly press down on the dough to
20 to 30 minutes.
mixed with brown sugar, ho ney o r sprea d it evenly in the mold . Pat the to p
For the rising, the dough is spread mo lasses. When the mixture is foamy, as smooth as possible. Cover the mo ld
evenly in the dish or pan in which it will pour in whole-w hea t flo ur. Mixing with plastic w rap o r a damp cloth, and
bake. After it is baked, the fully cooked with you r hand, g radually a dd tepid put it in a warm, draft-free place.
bread can be given a crisp crust by mov- water to fo rm a soft but cohesive
ing it to a baking sheet and returning it dough . Sco o p the dough into a b uttered
to the oven for 10 minutes or so. mo ld - here, an ovenproof dish.

Garnishing the loaf. Let the

3 4
Slicing the bread. Put the mold
dough rise unti l it increa ses in volume by into a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven.
half - about 30 minutes. If you like, After 40 minutes, turn the bread out
garnish the to p of the loaf with po ppy onto an ungreased baking sheet(inset).
seeds, sesame seeds o r the kernels of The bread sho uld sound ho llow when
cracked whea t used here. rapped. Invert the loaf on the sheet and
bake for l 0 more minutes. C ool the
brea d on a ra ck overnight; set it on a
board to slice it for serving.

60
Protracted Kneading for aTender French Loaf

The sort of loaf most Americans call

French bread has a tender, moist interior
that requires a dough too high in water
content to be kneaded and baked using
conventional methods. When the dough
is mixed (recipe, page 90), it is so soft
that it must be worked with a dough
scraper (right). After about 10 minutes,
the development of the gluten in the flour
will make the dough cohesive enough to
be gathered into a mass. It must be fur-
ther kneaded by repeatedly lifting it and
throwing it down on the work surface.
Because the dough is so moist, steam
will develop during baking and will pro-
duce large holes in the bread unless the
kneaded dough is given two risings be-
fore shaping. The additional rising, and
the punching down that follows it, help to
Kneading. Mix the dough in a bowl and turn it o ut onto a
reduce the size of the gas bubbles in the
dough and distribute them evenly.
After sh aping, the dough is too soft to
hold its form unless supported by a loaf
l lightly flou red work surface. Using a floured dough scraper - in this
case, of plastic - lift one edge of the dough (above, left) and fold
it over the center of the mass. Continue scraping and folding for
about 10 minutes, until the dough can be gathered into a boll.
pan. A French bread frame , available at Flour your hands, then repeatedly lift the boll (center) and throw it
kitchen-supply stores, is used here. It is down on the work su rface (right) for 10 minutes, until the dough
designed to retain the cylindrical shape is satiny and elastic. Put it in a buttered bowl, cover with plastic
of loaves as they rise and bake. wrap o r a damp cloth, and set it in a worm, draft-free place.

Rising. Lift the cyli nders of dough

3 4
Shaping the loaves. When the Baking the bread. Spraying the oven

2 dough has doubled in volume, after

about two hours, punch it down and let it
rise again until doubled. Then punch it
into the greased troughs of the bread
frame. Cover the frame and let the
loaves rise until doubled in volume -
every three minutes for the first
15 minutes, bake the loaves for a to ta l of
about 30 minutes, or until the crust is crisp
down, set it on a floured work surface about one hour. With a razor, slosh and slightly brown. Remove the fra me
and cut the mass in half with a knife. Pat the loaves diagonally. Set the pan in a from the oven and, with on oven mitt or
each portion into an oval. Rolling with preheated, humidified 425° F. [220° pothold er, pluck each loaf from the pan
both hands, form two cylinde rs almost as C.] oven. Use on atomizer to spray the and rap the bottom to make sure the
long as the bread frame. oven (page 16, Step 4). bread is baked through. Cool o n a rock.

61
SPECIAL YEAST BREADS

Incorporating Vegetables for Flavor and Color

Flecks of Green from Shredded Zucchini
Virtually any firm-textured vegetable or
fruit can be included in a basic bread
dough-either in the form of raw shreds
or as a cooked puree-to alter a loafs
color, taste, texture and aroma. Such an
addition will not affect the basic proce-
dure of breadmaking. Simply combine
the vegetable or fruit with the flour and
yeast and just enough liquid to make the
dough hold together (the shreds or puree
will provide part of the needed liquid).
Generally, the subtlest effects are cre-
ated by incorporating a vegetable in its
raw form-coarsely grated or very finely
chopped. The grated zucchini used in the
top demonstration, for example, merely
flecks the loaf with color while offering a
.._ . -"';;;.&oil.-.; i!P'.!~~I.bili!J
just-perceptible contrast of texture. Be-
Preparing the shreds. With a rotary Mixing the dough. Put the flour in
cause it is exceptionally moist, zucchini
must be salted and squeezed to rid it of
excess liquid (Step 1, top) before it is
mixed with the flour, yeast and water.
l shredder or a box grater, shred zucchini
coarse. Spread a layer of shreds in a
bowl; salt them evenly. Repeat until all of
2 a large mixing bowl and add the
shredded zucchini. Pour in yeast that
has been mixed with a little tepid water
the shreds are salted. After 30 minutes, (page 10). Mix the ingredients by
The shreds will cook through in the time tightly squeeze the shreds to expel their hand, incorporating just enoug h
the loaf takes to bake. Cucumbers or egg- liquid, put them in a colander and rinse additional tepid water to form the
plants require the same salting treat- under cold water to remove excess salt. dough into a firm mass.
Squeeze again and drain well.
ment; carrots, green peppers or onions
can be used directly after grating.
To suffuse an entire loaf with flavor
and color, add a cooked vegetable or fruit
puree. In the lower demonstration, a loaf
An Amber Hue from Pureed Pumpkin
acquires a glowing hue, moist texture
and an elusive edge of sweetness from a
pumpkin puree. Winter squashes such as
Hubbard or acorn can replace the pump-
kin, as could such pureed root vegetables
as turnips, celeriac and sweet potatoes.
Peaches, plums, pears or apricots are
among the fruits suitable for cooked pu-
rees. A thick, fresh tomato sauce or ap-
plesauce will produce striking results.
Yet another option is to add cooked
whole grains such as white or brown rice,
oatmeal or barley to the dough mixture.
Like vegetables and fruits, the grains
will contribute moistness, as well as dis-
tinctive texture.
Whenever you supplement a dough
Pureeing pumpkin. Halve a Mixing the dough. Let the

l
with a cooked vegetable, fruit or grain,
make sure it is first allowed to cool un-
til it is tepid. If the flavoring is added
when it is too hot, it may kill the yeast
pumpkin; use a spoon to scrape out the
seeds and fibers. Cut the flesh into
thick slices. Peel them and cut them into
2 pumpkin puree cool. In a large mixing
bowl, add the pureed pumpkin to
flour and salt. Mix them together lightly
small pieces. Simmer in lightly salted by hand. Add yeast mixed with a little
and prevent the dough from rising. water for 20 to 25 minutes, until tender. tepid water, and combine thoroughly. If
Drain the pumpkin and reserve the the dough is too dry, add some of the
water. With a pestle, press the pumpkin reserved cooking water; if it is too sticky,
through a strainer set over a bowl. sprinkle in more flour.

62
3
Preparing for baking. Knead the
dough and let it rise until doubled. Knead
it into a ball and mold it into a loaf-
Baking and slicing. Ba ke the bread in a p rehea ted,

4
here, a tapered cylinder(poge 21 ). Place
the loaf on a baking sheet that has humidified 425° F. [220° C.] oven for about 45 minutes, until it
been dusted with semolina or greased; sounds hollow when its underside is rapped. During baking,
let the loaf rise again. To keep spray the oven twice(poge 16, Step 4). Remove the bread from the
vegetable shreds on the surface from oven and place it on a w ire rock to cool for several hours or
b urning, brush the loaf with a little oil. overnight; then put it on a board for slicing ond serving.

Shaping the loaf. Knead the dough

3 and let it rise until doubled - about two

hours. For a pumpkin-shaped loaf, Baking and serving. Bake the pumpkin bread in a
knead the risen d ough again and mold it
into a ball. Place it on o greased or
floured baking sheet to rise. Just before
baking, use a razor blade to incise o
4 preheated, humidified 450° F. [230° C.] oven for 50 minutes to one
hour, until the loaf is golden and sounds hollow when its
underside is rapped . During baking, spray the oven twice(poge 16,
Step 4) . Move the loaf from the oven to a wire rack to cool
circle around the top - the loaf wi ll overnight. Place it on a board for slicing.
develop o decorative crown as it bakes.

63
SPECIAL YEAST BREADS

An Amalgam of Elements in a Rich, Dark Loaf

Unlike a vegetable or fruit bread, which

takes its special characteristics from the
incorporation of a single ingredient, a
dark bread owes its rich taste, dense,
moist texture and depth of color to a com-
bination of many different flavorings.
Strong-flavored flours and meals are a
natural starting point. Traditional Ger-
man pumpernickel loaves, for example,
are made entirely from rye flour, but
the American version of pumpernickel
shown here-one better suited to the
tastes of people accustomed to lighter,
softer breads-contains a mixture of rye
and whole-wheat flours and cornmeal
(recipe, page 107).
To add more flavor and further intensi-
fy the color of dark breads, the flour is
blended with sweet, syrupy or malty in-

1
gredients such as molasses, unsweetened Blending in flavorings. Sprinkle yellow cornmeal into a
chocolate or beer. The mixture may be pan of boiling water, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon
(inset) . Reduce the heat and stir until the mixture forms a light
scented with spices and citrus peel. Pota- paste - two to three minutes. Remove the pan from the heat
to is often added for body and moistness. and add flavorings - in this case, molasses (above), small
Combining so many different ingredi- pieces of unsweetened baking chocolate, butter, sugar, salt and
ents with varying consistencies and tex- caraway seeds. Stir until the chocolate and butter melt and the
tures requires patience and a methodical mixture is well combined.
approach. In the demonstration at right,
the cornmeal is heated in water to soften
it. The hot paste that results serves as a
convenient medium in which to melt and
blend chocolate and molasses (Step 1);
without this paste, the flavorings would
have to be melted gently in a heavy pan
set in a water bath. The flavored mixture
is cooled until tepid: Too much heat kills
yeast. Cooled mashed potato and yeast
are then incorporated.
Only at this stage are the flours intro-
duced-first stirred in, then worked in
by hand (Steps 3 and 4). Because there-
sulting dough is very stiff and sticky, it
needs more energetic kneading than usu-
al to develop its gluten and give it the
necessary smoothness and elasticity. Be-
cause it is much heavier than ordinary,
unflavored dough, the dark dough is sim-
ply patted into loaf shapes.
Dark breads should be prepared and
baked at least one day before serving.
During the interim period, their flavors
mingle and mature, and the slight stal-
ing makes the loaves easier to cut into
5 Kneading. Turn the dough out onto
a surface dusted with whole-wheat flour,
and sprinkle more flour on the dough.
Press the dough down and spread it out
with the heel of your hand; gather it
6
Shaping the loaves. Put the kneaded
dough into a greased bowl and cover it
with plastic wrap or a damp cloth. Let the
dough rise in a warm place until it has
increased in volume by half- about one
the thin slices that best suit their rich- together - using a dough scraper, if hour. Turn the dough out onto a floured
ness. Dark bread retains moisture well necessary - give it a slight turn, and surface and cut it in two. Knead each
because of its density, and will keep for repeat. Knead until it is no longer piece for a few minutes, then pat each
sticky- 10 to 15 minutes. piece into a smooth round .
several weeks if wrapped tightly in foil.
64
 3 4
Adding mashed potato. Transfer Adding the flours. A little a t a Mixing the dough. Continue to

2 the flavored cornmeal to a large mixing

bowl; let the mixture cool until it is
lukewarm. Add lukewarm mashed
time, sprinkle the flours- rye and whole-
wheat are used in this demonstration
- into the flavored corn meal-and -
a dd the flours to the dough until the
mixture becomes too stiff to stir.
Coat you r hands lightly with oil to
potatoes. Mix yeast in a little tepid water potato mixture. Stir briefly with a prevent sticking, and use them to work
and stir it tho roughly into the mixture. wooden spoon after each addition. in the remaining flour.

7
Glazing the loaves. Set the loaves
on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal
or semolina. Cover the m with inverted
bowls, and let them rise again until they Baking and slicing. Put the loaves in an oven preheated to
have increased in volume by ha lf -
about 30 minutes. G laze the top s of the
loaves w ith a lightly beaten mixture of
8 375° F. [1 90° C.]. Check them after 30 minutes: If they are
browning too quickly, cover them with foil. After another 30
minutes, rap the bottom of each loaf. W hen the loaves sound
egg white and water. hollow, the bread is done. Cool the loaves o n a ra ck overnight.
Transfer them to a b oard and slice them thin with a serrated knife.

65
SPECIAL YEAST BREADS

Tactics for Blending in Cheeses and Herbs

An Infusion of Cheddar
Among the most popular savory flavor- dough-in two stages to distribute it
ings for brea d are cheeses and herbs. evenly-the cheese shreds will remain
How and when they are incorporated is intact, reappearing as melted nuggets.
determined by their nature a nd, in many Herbs also may be added early or late
cases, also by the effects desired. but, because their pungency varies a nd
Soft fresh cheeses such as ricotta, pot their effect might become overwhelming,
or cottage cheese are so moist that they they are best kneaded into risen dough.
are treated as liquids and invariably add- Both fresh and dried herbs are usable.
ed when the dough is being stirred to- Fresh herb leaves should be stripped
gether (recipe, page 113) . from the stems and chopped fine. Dried
Firm or hard cheeses-Edam, Muen- herbs should be crumbled to release all of
ster, Parmesan , Monterey Jack or the their aromatic oils. In the demonstration
Cheddar shown at right (recipe, page opposite, below (recipe,page 116), sage is
112) -must be shredded or grated to dis- chosen; other suitable herbs include dill,
perse well. Depending on the results you thyme, chives, maljoram or savory.
want, the cheese may be incorporated Whatever the flavoring or the method
into the dough either as it is mixed or of incorporating it into the dough, cheese
after it has risen. If added early, the and herb breads can be shaped by any of
shreds will lose their textural identity in the techniques demonstrated in Chapter Adding cheese. Beat together
the kneading process and will suffuse the
bread during rising and baking.
The high fat content of firm or hard
1, and baked freestanding or in pans. The
cheese bread here is shaped as an oblong,
divided with a string to split the finished
l flour, yeast, sugar, salt, water, oil and
block pepper in a bowl. Knead the
dough and let it rise until doubled -
cheese also will inhibit rising somewhat, loaf-an Italian tradition. The sage loaf abou t 45 minutes. Shred firm
producing a close-textured bread that is formed as a flat bread, reminiscent of cheese - in this case, Cheddar. Punch
will tend to be soggy. Added to risen pizza and just as easily cut into wedges. down the dough and flatten it into a
round 1 inch [2 Y2 em.] thick. Sprinkle half
of the cheese onto the dough.

Baking and serving. Tie the string

5 loosely around the middle of the oblong

(inset). Let the loaf rise until doubled-
about on hour. Spraying the preheated,
humidified oven twice (page 16, Step
4) , bake the loaf at 400° F. [200o C.] for
30 minutes. Cool the loaf on a rock,
then slip a finger under the knot and pull
up the string until the loaf splits (right) .

66
 Distributing the cheese. Knead Shaping the loaf. On a greased

4
Folding in cheese. Using your

2 hands, lift one side of the round of dough

and fold it toward you. Align the
edges and press down on the mass,
3 the dough lightly until the cheese has
been distributed throughout the moss.
Aga in p ress the dough into a round.
baking sheet, pat the dough into a Iorge
oblong 1 Y2 inches [4 em.] thick. Cut a
2-foot [60-cm.] length of heavy twine-
sandwiching the cheese between the Sprinkle with the rest of the cheese, do not use nylon cord or treated string
two layers of dough. fold the dough and knead again until all tha t could melt in the heat of the oven.
of the cheese is well incorporated. Slide the string under the dough.

An Aromatic Addition of Sage

Baking. Sprinkle coa rse salt over

2 3
Adding the herb. Combine flour, Shaping and glazing. Place the

1 moistened yeast, and o live oil in a bowl.

Knead, cover and let the dough rise
until it doubles in volume - about an
dough on a greased baking sheet-
here, a pizza pan - and flatten it with
your fingers, working outward from the
the round and place an herb sprig in the
center. Cover with an inverted bowl
and let the dough rise for 20 minutes.
hour. Punch the dough down . Sprinkle center to form a round. For decorative Bake in a preheated, humidified
finely chopped herbs - in this instance, effect, indent the surface by pressing 375o F. [190° C.J oven for 45 minutes.
sage leaves - on a work surface and your finger tips into it. To give the loaf When the loaf is golden brown, cool it
set the dough on top. Knead the dough, a golden fini sh, brush the surface o f the on a ra ck for 20 minutes before serving.
gradually blending in the bits of herb. dough with an egg-and-water gloze.

67
SPECIAL YEAST BREADS

A Fruit and Nut Bun with a Plain Wrapper

A surprisingly large amount of dried

fruits and nuts can be kneaded into a
plain or enriched dough-as much as
twice the weight of the dough itself-to
produce a festive, cakelike bread. Such
extra bulk, however, will interfere with
the normal rising of a dough, so it is es-
sential that the flavorings be added only
after the dough has risen.
The Scotch bun demonstrated here-
sometimes called a Hogmanay cake be-
cause it is traditionally served at Hog-
manay, or New Year's Eve, feasts in
Scotland-includes orange peel, lemon
peel, chopped almonds, currants, raisins
and spices (recipe, page 128). For addi-
tional flavor, these ingredients may be
soaked in rum, brandy or fruit liqueur for
an hour or two before incorporating them
into the dough.
The flavored dough is enclosed in a

l
Preparing the flavorings. Mix Flavoring the dough. Cut the
thin layer of plain dough, which gives the
final loaf a deceptively modest appear-
ance: Cutting thus becomes a dramatic
dough - here, enriched with butter -
knead it and let it rise. In a b owl, combine
raisins, dried currants, finely chopped
2 risen dough into two portions, o ne twice
the size of the o ther. With your fists,
flatten the larger portion of dough into a
act-a revelation of riches within. The orange and lemon peels, and chopped round about l inch [2Y2 em.] thick. Tip
dough wrapper also serves a more practi- blanched a lmonds. Grate in nutmeg. the flavoring mixture onto it.
Use a mortar and pestle to pound whole
cal purpose; it helps to keep the fruit fill- cloves, allsp ice and dried ginger to a
ings from drying out as the loaf bakes. To powder; add them to the bowl.
allow the escape of steam that might oth-
erwise separate the doughs during bak-
ing, the bun is pierced all over with a
skewer, a long needle or a fork before the
loaf goes into the oven.

5
Sealing the bun. Lift the edges o f the plain d ough and fold
them aro und the filling to enclose it. Pleat any excess dough on the
top and press the pleats together to overlap them (left) . Tu rn the
bun over so that the plea ts are on the underside. Using the rolling
pin, lightly roll the bun to flatten it slightly(right).

68
 •
#

3
Kneading in the flavorings. Lift one edge of the dough and

4
Assembling the bun. On a lightly
fold it up and over the flavorings(/eft). Push the dough down into floured work surface, use a rolling pin to
the flavorings. Continue to fold and push the dough to work in the ro ll out the smaller portio n o f do ugh
flavorings; gather up any that fall away and press them back into into a round sheet % inch [6 mm.] thick
the dough (right). When a ll of the ingredients are evenly dispersed and large enough to w rap completely
throughout the dough, mold it into a round and pat its top flat. around the flavored p ortion. Center the
flavored dough on the plain dough.

6
Containing the bun. W ith a fork,
pierce the top of the bun deeply at
intervals o f about l Y2 inches [4 em.].
•
....
.•
•·
Grease and flou r a baking sheet and

7
Baking the bun. Bake the bun in a p reheated, humidified
place the bun on it. To ensure that the bun
375° F. [190° C.] oven for one hour. Remove the cake hoop so the
keeps its shape as it bakes, surround it
sides of the b un can brown, and bake foranother30 minutes. Cool
w ith a greased, expandable cake hoop,
o n a rack fo r several hours o r overnight; serve in wedg es. Wrapped
tightened until it barely touches the bun.
in foil or plastic, the bun w ill keep fo r up to a week.

69
SPECIAL YEAST BREADS

A Loaf that OHers a Whole Meal

With a bit of artistry on the part of the

cook, bread can serve as a spectacular
platform for foodstuffs too bulky to be in-
tegrated by kneading. As seen in the pic-
nic loaf demonstrated at right (recipe,
page 113), the foods are simply set in
place on the surface of the loaf, held se-
cure with ropes or lids of dough, and
baked along with the bread.
The foods chosen for such a festive cre-
ation must be relatively dry, lest they ex-
ude copious juices and inhibit rising and
crust formation. The picnic loaf here, for
example, holds sausage, eggs and cheese.
The sausage is smoked-in this case,
Polish kielbasa sausage-and it needs
only heating to be ready to eat. The eggs
are raw, their shells pricked with a nee-
dle at one end to keep them from crack-
ing as they bake.

l
Forming the base. Mix basic yeast Covering the cheese. Pot
The cheese selected is firm Muenster,
shredded so that it will melt evenly in the
oven's heat and lidded with dough so that
dough (poge 14) and let it rise once.
Punch down the dough and divide it
into two pieces, one slightly larger than
2 shredded cheese - here, Muenster -
into a boll and center it on the dough
bose. Press the remaining dough flat, cut
its molten flow is contained. The Muen- the o ther. On a greased pizza pan, off half of it and press this portion into
press the larger piece into a disk about a 7 -inch [18-cm.] disk. Use this disk as a
ster could be replaced by such other firm % inch [1 em.] thick and 14 inches lid for the cheese. Brush wate r on the
cheeses as provolone, Cheddar, Gruyere, [35 em.] in diameter. edge of the lid, then seal it to the bose.
Gouda or Cantal, or by a small disk of soft
Brie, Camembert or Boursault.
Similarly, the sausage and eggs could
be supplemented or replaced by slices of
ham, anchovy fillets or sardines, wedges
of raw onion, pitted ripe or green olives,
or roasted sweet red peppers. Improvisa-
tion-even an element of whimsy-is
the essence of breads that are used in
such a showcase role.

5 Glazing the loaf. With the remaining ropes, encircle the lid of
dough covering the cheese and decorate the top of the mound. Let
the bread rise fo r about on hour - until a finger, pressed into the
dough bose, leaves an indentation that fills slowly. Brush the entire
surface of the bread with beaten egg yolk.

70
3 4
Arranging the eggs and sausages. Place whole Anchoring the toppings. Cross a pair of ropes over each of
uncooked eggs and segments of sausages alternately around the the sausage segments. Moisten both ends of each rope with water
circumference of the base; in this instance, two eggs alternate and press the ends firmly into the dough base. Drape a rope over
with each sausage segment. Divide the remaining dough into small each egg and moisten the rope ends to secure the egg to the base.
pieces, mold each into a ball and roll it under your hands (page
27) to form it into a rope about as thick as a pencil.

6
Baking and serving. Spraying
the preheated, humidified oven twice
(page 16, Step4), bakethebreadat
400o F. [200° C.] for 25 minutes, then at
350° F. [180° C.] for an additional
25 minutes. Cool the loaf on a rack. To
serve, slice the loaf into wedges by
cutting between the eggs and through
the middle of each sausage segment.

71
-----------4~--
~reads without Yeast
cfi_lternative Ways
to Lighten Batters and CVoughs

Thin breads leavened by steam Breads that are made without yeast vary remarkably. They range from
Johnnycake- an American tradition flat, thin disks and souffle-light puffs raised only by steam to tender,
The uses of baking soda and powder cakelike loaves and crisp waffies leavened by baking powder.
Although such breads lack the fine texture and the keeping qualities
Tricks of biscuit making
of most yeast-leavened breads, they possess certain distinct advantages.
Flavoring with fruit purees Nonyeast doughs require little, if any, of the kneading that develops the
Baking pancakes and waffles gluten network necessary to trap gas slowly given off by yeast. Whereas
yeast must have time to act on dough before baking, other leavens rise
quickly and need only moisture and the oven's heat to do their work. And
because nonyeast leavens do not rely on gluten, you can use flours and
meals that have little or no gluten-forming potential-barley, oats
and cornmeal, for example.
Heat alone, without a leavening agent, is enough to raise light bat-
ters and soft, flattened doughs. In the case of the flour-and-water blend
used to make the Indian flatbreads called chappatis, for example, mois-
t ure in the dough is converted to steam that puffs up the bread, as demon-
strated on pages 74-75.
With popovers (pages 78-79), more dramatic puffing results from a
higher proportion of liquid and the use of eggs in the batter. When sub-
jected to the oven's heat, the egg proteins combine with those of the flour
to stiffen the gluten meshwork. The steam created by the batter's liquid
is trapped in this meshwork, causing maximum expansion.
The most popular nonyeast leavens utilize baking soda in one form or
another. Moistened and subjected to heat, the soda releases carbon diox-
ide, which raises the bread mixture. However, the alkaline soda will give
bread a soapy taste unless it is neutralized by the addition of some acidic
element. (The acid also speeds the production of gas.) Breads leavened by
baking soda (pages 78-79) are often made with some type of soured milk
to supply the necessary acidity.
A loaf o f golden-hued banana bread is
Such precautions are not necessary when the soda used is in the form
cut into thick slabs for serving. Made of baking powder, which includes its own acid-usually cream of tartar.
from a batter leavened with baking When moistened, the two chemicals instantly begin to act on each other.
powder and flavored with pureed Therefore, baking powder also contains a little starch-in most cases,
bananas, chopped nuts and raisins, the
bread has a moistness and a tenderness cornstarch-which keeps the mixture so dry that the soda and acid
typical of nonyeast loaves. cannot react while in storage.
73
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

PuHing Up an Unleavened Dough

In many parts of the world, the daily fire. The direct heat quickly turns the
bread is no more than a soft dough of dough's moisture to steam, puffing up t he
flour and water, shaped into thin rounds bread while the cooking is completed.
and -more often than not-cooked on a For a crisper effect, the disks can be
griddle or in a pan. Such a flatbread usu- cooked through in the pan or on a griddle,
ally is made with flours that contain lit- so that the steam leavens the bread mini-
tle or no gluten: barley, millet, oat, rye, mally. For a denser, softer bread, t he
corn or whole-wheat are all used. None- disks may be made slightly thicker, then
theless, the dough must be kneaded and wrapped in foil and baked in an oven.
rested. Kneading- accomplished in only Different flavorings further extend the
a few minutes-distributes the liquid range of unleavened breads. At the very
evenly, thus softening the flour and per- least, the dough mixture should be sea-
mitting its starches and proteins to bind soned with salt, while ground spices or
the dough together. Resting the dough chopped herbs can make exciting addi-
tenderizes it by relaxing any gluten pres- tions. If you like, substitute milk for
ent in the flour. some or all of the water to enrich the
Elemental though they are, flatbreads dough slightly.
can be surprisingly varied in texture. You can produce flaky bread that is
The light, airy quality of the Indianchap- richer still by repeatedly brushing each
patis demonstrated at right (recipe, page round of dough with melted butter, fold- Mixing the dough. Combine
139) is obtained by cooking the dough
in two stages. First, each thin disk is
browned lightly in a preheated pan. Then
ing it and then rolling it out again- a
technique used for Indian parathas (box,
below; recipe, page 140) . For a more sub-
l flour- in th is case, whole-wheat flour-
and salt in a large bowl or on a work
surface. With your hand, mix in water to
the bread is held for a few seconds over an stantial result, you can stuff the dough make a soft, slightly sticky dough. On
with pureed vegetables before cooking a lightly floured surface, knead the
open flame-a lighted gas burner as dough for five to 10 minutes, until it is
here or, using tongs, a barbecue or camp- (recipe, page 144). supple. Cover the dough with plastic
wrap or a damp cloth.

A Textural Change from Melted Butter

l Buttering the dough. Prepare

thin disks of unleavened, whole-wheat 2 Folding and rolling. Fold each
disk of dough in half, then fold it again
into a quarter circle. With a rolling pin,
3 Cooking and serving. Butter a
seasoned griddle lightly and preheat it
over low to medium heat. Cook each
dough (Steps 1-3, above), replacing
half of the water with milk. Brush the top rol l out the dough as evenly as possible d isk for three to five minutes, until its
of each disk lightly with melted butter. to re-form a rough ci rcle. Butter, fold underside is well browned. W ith a
and roll the dough three more times. spatula, flip the bread, then cook it for
three to five minutes. Stack the breads on
a napkin-lined plate and serve at once.

74
2 3 4
Dividing the dough. Let the Rolling out the dough. Sprinkle Browning the bread. Preheat a
dough rest for 30 minu tes. Then, keeping each round of dough with flour. Push a seasoned, cast-iron grid dle or skillet
the bulk of the dough covered, pull off rolling pin back and forth over the (box, page 76) over medium heat. Put a
two or three walnut-sized pieces. Flour dough with one hand and turn the dough disk of dough on it. When bubbles
your hands and roll each piece with the other hand to make an even appear on the surface - after about
between your palms to shape it into an disk. Keep rolling and turning until the three minutes- carefully turn the d isk
even ball. On a floured surface, press disk is about 1'\s inch [2 mm.] thick. over with your finger tips or a spatula.
each ball firm ly to fo rm a flat round. Cook the bread for a nother minute, until
its underside begins to brown.

Completing the cooking. To puff

5 up the bread, lift it with a spatula, tongs

or a skimmer and hold it over an open
flame. After a few seconds, when the
bread puffs up (left), remove it from
the heat. Place the breads in a napkin-
lined dish; chappatis should be eaten
hot, torn apart by hand (inset).

75
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

Flatbreads Based on Cornmeal

Many traditional American flatbreads

- hoecake, corn pone or johnnycake-
are made by techniques learned from
the Indians. Cornmeal, liquid and some-
times fat and flavorings are combined in
a batter or dough, which is then shaped
into flat cakes and cooked quickly on a
hot surface-originally stones that had
been heated in an open fire.
Because of its large, coarse granules,
meal absorbs liquid at a slower rate than
flour. To ensure uniform absorption and
avoid lumps, liquid is added slowly and
thoroughly incorporated. The mixture is
then rested for a minimum of five min-
utes to let the starches in the meal swell
and soften-after which the consistency
is adjusted with more liquid.
During cooking, the starches in the Mixing the ingredients. M ix Thinning the batter. Continue
meal will bind the mixture; at the same
time, stea m formed from the liquid is
trapped by the starches, lightening the
1 cornmeal, salt and sugar in a large bowl.
Add milk gradually, stirring it into the
dry ingredients with a wooden spoon.
2 stirring gently until a ll of the lumps have
disappeared and the batter is of an
easily pourable consistency. Let the
ba tter rest fo r at least five minutes to
bread. Because these starches are gluey,
moisten the meal thoroughly. Then thin
corn flatbreads must be cooked on a well- the batter with more liquid, if necessa ry.
seasoned pan (box, below).
Perhaps the most widely made corn
flatbread is johnnycake (first known a s
"journey cake" because it was so conve-
nient for travelers to carry). Now gener-
ally served for breakfast , it is popular un- A Chewy Cake from Molasses-flavored Dough
der two guises: crisp, lace-fringed cakes
created from a simple batter (top demon-
stration; recipe, page 150), and plump,
crunchy cakes formed from a rich dough
(bottom demonstration; recipe, page 150) .

Seasoning Cast-iron Pans

To ensure that breads do not stick to
them, cast-iron pans must be well
seasoned with oil. The oil will pene-
trate the porous cooking surfaces,
giving them a slick finish and, inci-
dentally, preventing rust.
To season an iron pan, brush the
cooking surfaces generously with
flavorless vegetable oil. Put the pa n
Mixing the dough. Place cornmeal, softened butter,
in a 250° F . [120° C.] oven for an
hour; let it cool in the oven over-
night. Use paper towels to wipe off
excess oil. After ea ch u se, rinse the
1 molasses and salt in a mixing bowl. Stirring constantly with a
wooden spoon, pour bo iling water into the bowl (above, left).
Mix until the ingredients are well blend ed. Let the dough rest for a t
lea st five minutes. Then gradua lly add enough milk to thin the
pan with water, dry it, and wipe it dough just until it w ill drop off a spoon in large dollops (right).
with an oil-soaked paper towel.

76
 4 5
Greasing the griddle. Place a Forming the cakes. For each Cooking the cakes. When the

3 well-seasoned griddle over medium

heat. Let the griddle heat until a few
drops of cold water sprinkled on its
cake, use a large ladle to dip up about
Y2 cup [125 mi.] of batter- enough to
make a cake about 6 inches [15 em. ] in
undersides are golden brown- after
about four minutes- turn the cakes over
with a metal spatula or pancake turner.
surface hiss and turn to steam within a diameter. In a single, smooth motion, Let the cakes cook for about four minutes
few seconds. Grease the griddle tip the batter onto the hot surface of the more, until the lacelike fringe around the
generously; in this demonstration, griddle. Space the cakes about an edges is crisp. Serve the cakes hot, with
melted bacon fat is used. inch [2Y2 em.] apart. butter and maple syrup or honey.

2
Forming cakes. Heat a seasoned
griddle over medium heat until a drop of
water, flicked on the surface, sizzles
instantly. To shape the cakes, wet your
3 Cooking the cakes. Grease the
griddle with lard or bacon fat and p lace
the cakes on it. Cook them for about
six minutes, or until the undersides are
4
Serving. After another six to seven
minutes-when the cakes are golden
brown on both sides- transfer them
to a plate. Split each cake and insert a
hands with water and pinch off pieces golden brown, then flip the cakes with large piece of butter. Serve the cakes
of dough about the size of large walnuts. a spatula or pancake turner. as soon as the butter begins to melt.
With your hands, roll the pieces into
balls and flatten them into disks that are
about Y2 inch [1 em. ] thick.

77
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

Two Old-fashioned Leavening Methods

Popovers: Light and Puffy
Before the invention of modern baking
powder in the 1850s (page 7), bakers used
a variety of stratagems to raise nonyeast
breads. Among the most successful were
those developed for popovers (top demon-
stration) and Irish soda bread ( bottom
demonstration).
Popovers rely on the simplest of natu-
ralleavenings: steam. The batter for pop-
overs is thin-it contains as much milk
as flour-and is enriched with butter
and eggs (recipe, page 142). As the bat-
ter's liquid turns to steam in the heat of
the oven, the proteins of the flour and
eggs coagulate to form an elastic shell
that traps the steam inside. For maxi-
mum expansion, popovers are baked in a
hot oven until fully risen, then the heat is

l
Mixing the batter. Sift flour ond Beating in eggs. Break eggs one
reduced to firm their crusts. While the
popovers are rising, they are very fragile.
The oven door must not be opened, lest a
draft cause the popovers to collapse.
salt together into a Iorge mixing bowl. In
a saucepan, heat milk and butter just
until the butter melts. Make a well in the
2 at a time and stir them into the batter with
a whisk. Whisk the mixture until the
eggs are thoroughly combined with the
center of the dry ingredients and other ingredients and the batter has
Popovers will rise highest if baked in gradually pour in the milk and butter, the consistency of heavy cream.
small molds: The batter can only expand stirring with a fork or whisk until the
upward. The cups of an old-fashioned batter is smooth and free of lumps.
cast-iron pan are set close together so
that the ballooning popovers will press
against each other and spread irregular-
ly (Step 4, top). For more even tops, pop-
overs can be baked in individual souffie Soda Bread: Crusty and Robust
dishes or custard cups. Preheating the
molds will help to set the undersides of
the popovers and speed rising.
Steam is not an adequate leavening to
lighten thick batters or heavy doughs.
But more than two centuries ago, cooks
learned to raise weightier breads with
baking soda, which rapidly releases car-
bon dioxide when it is moistened and
heated. Soda alone is not enough: Its
saltiness must be balanced by an acid
food such as the buttermilk used in the
Irish soda bread at right.
Classic Irish soda bread is made either
with all-white flour (recipe, page 136) or,
for a pale brown loaf with an agreeably
coarse texture, with equal parts of white
and whole-wheat flours. Traditionally,
soda bread is baked in a container-
2
Stirring in the liquid. Place all of Kneading the dough. Continue
here, a cast-iron pot. During the first part
of baking, the container is covered to trap
moisture, thus delaying the formation of
l the dry ingredients - in this case, wh ite
flour, whole-wheat flour, baking soda
and salt - in a Iorge mixing bowl and stir
stirring, working outward from the center
of the bowl, until a cohesive dough
forms. Flour your hands and gather
them. Make a well in the center and together the dough; turn it ou t onto a
crust and allowing the dough to rise to its gradually pour in the liquid- buttermilk, floured work surface. Knead the dough
fullest extent. Then the lid is removed to here - while stirring with a fork. lightly and swiftly for two to three
let the surface of the bread brown. minutes. Pat the dough into a boll.

78
3
Filling the molds. Preheat a
seasoned popover pan for 10 minutes in
a 425° F. [220° C.] oven. Brush the
cups of the pan with butter. Immediately
Baking and serving. Quickly return th~ pan to the oven and
ladle the batter into the cups, filling
each no more than two thirds full to allow
room for the batter to expand. 4 bake the popovers for 30 minutes - w1thout open1ng the oven
door. Reduce the heat to 350° F. [ 180° C.J and bake for five to 10
minutes longer until the popovers are firm and well b rowned. Serve
the popovers at once; if left to cool, they will deflate.

Scoring the dough. Oil a seasoned

3 cast-iron pot(box, page 76) and preheat

it for 10 minutes in a 400° F. [200° C.]
oven. Flatten the dough into a round and

4
Baking the bread. Return the pot to the oven and bake !he
place it in the pot. With a sharp, floured
bread for 30 minutes. Remove the lid and bake fo r 10 m1nutes to
knife, score a deep cross in the dough,
brown the crust. Protecting your hands w1th a potholder, t1p
taking care not to cut to the edges of the
the bread out of the pot (inset) and cool it on a rack for a bout 45
round. Cover the pot with its lid.
minutes. To serve, break the bread along the scored lines.

79
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

The Speed and Versatility of Baking Powder

Biscuits Stamped from a Sheet of Dough
When a bread is leavened with baking
powder-baking soda mixed by the man-
ufacturer with an acid, such as cream of
tartar-the liquid in the dough or batter
triggers the reaction between the soda
and acid so that they begin to release
carbon dioxide even before the bread is
baked. The oven's heat then speeds up
the reaction to inflate the dough or batter
fully. The result is moist, fluffy bread
such as the baking powder biscuits and
blueberry muffins demonstrated at right
(recipes, pages 136 and 146).
Baking powder will raise batters and
soft doughs based on any flour or combi-
nation of flour and meal; it is generally
used in the ratio of 1 Yz teaspoons [7 ml.]
of baking powder to 1 cup [lf.i liter] of
flour or meal. Quick and gentle handling Cutting in the fat. Let the fat- in Stirring in milk. Add milk, and stir
of the mixture is essential to avoid dissi-
pating the carbon dioxide before the bat-
ter or dough is baked. Working fast also
l this case, lord - warm a t roo m
temperature until it is soft but not oily.
In a Iorge mixing bowl, sift together flour,
2 the mixture lightly with a fork until the
ingredients cohere in a loose, soft
moss. Do not overstir. Turn the d oug h out
prevents excessive development of glu- baking powder and salt. Add the fat o nto a lightly floured work surface.
and, using a light chopping motio n, cut
ten, which would toughen the bread.
through the ingredients repeatedly
To make airy baking powder biscuits, with a pastry blender just until the mixture
for example, dry ingredients are com- has the consistency of cornmeal.
bined only lightly with fat. You can do
this most easily by gently chopping them
with a pastry blender as shown at top
right. The fat may be lard, vegetable Muffins Brimming with Berries
shortening or a mixture of half lard and
half butter, and it must be soft enough to
be readily incorporated.
To moisten the dough, milk is stirred
in quickly; then the dough is turned out,
kneaded very gently, and patted-not
rolled-flat. The biscuits are cut out at
once and baked. In all, the process should
take only about 10 minutes.
For tender muffins, based on a thick
batter rather than a dough, the ingredi-
ents are stirred only until the mixture is
roughly blended, as shown at bottom
right. Stirring the batter to smoothness
would toughen the bread, and would not
serve a useful purpose: Small lumps left
in the batter disappear during baking.
Both biscuits and muffins can be made
Mixing the batter. Sift together
l
Adding the fruit. Wash fresh
plain or seasoned with herbs and spices.
The muffin batter will support heavy
additions as well. Blueberries are used
here, but cranberries, raisins, nuts or
flour, salt and baking powder into a
mixing bowl; if you like sweeter
muffins, odd a little sugar. In a separate
2 blueberries a nd drain them on a to wel.
Put the berries in a strainer. Ho ld the
strai ner over a plate an d sprinkle the
bowl, whisk eggs and milk until they berries with flo ur, to pping the strainer
bits of crisply fried bacon can be substi- are tho ro ughly blended. Stir melted so that excess flour fa lls throug h. Add the
tuted. To prevent large morsels from butter into the liquid. Pour the liquid fl ou red berries to the muffin batter and
sinking during baking, they should be into the flour and stir briefly, until the stir them in with a few swift strokes.
dusted with flour before they are added. ingredients ore roughly blended.

80
 Cutting out the biscuits. Dip a Baking and serving. Bake the

5
Working the dough. Knead the

3 dough briefly- just seven or eight

times- until it holds together. Pat it
lightly into o sheet Y2 inch [ 1 em.] thick.
Do not overwork the dough by trying
4 biscuit cutter into flour to prevent sticking,
and push it straight down through the
dough; twisting the cutter would produce
lopsided biscuits. Pull the cutter
biscuits in a preheated 450° F. [230° C.]
oven until lightly browned- 10 to
15 minutes. Transfer the biscuits directly
to a serving dish and serve them hot,
to pat the top perfectly smooth. straight up and out. Place the biscuits on accompanied by butter and- if
an ungreased baking sheet, either desired- honey, jelly or jam.
close together or with space between
them to brown the sides.

Filling the muffin pan. Spoon the

3 batter into generously buttered cups of a

muffin pan, filling each two thirds full.
Serving. Remove the muffins from the oven and let them rest

4
Bake the muffins in a preheated 400° F.
[200° C.] oven for 20 to 25 minutes, for about a minute so that they shrink slightly from the sides of the
until they are fully risen and light brown. cups. Run a knife tip around each muffin and invert the pan to
unmold the muffins. Serve them warm, in a napkin-lined basket. To
eat them, break the muffins apart a nd spread them with butter.

81
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

Pureed Fruit for a Cakelike Interior

A baking powder batter thickened with

pureed fruit yields a mildly sweet bread
with a moist, tender interior. To combine
easily with the other ingredients, the
fruit puree must be fairly smooth. Soft
fruits can be pureed raw: For example,
the ripe bananas used in this demonstra-
tion (recipe, page 146) are simply peeled
and mashed. The same treatment would
apply to avocados or persimmons. Firmer
fruits such as apricots, apples or pump-
kins must be cooked and then pureed.
The ingredients should be combined in
a sequence that does not require ,persis-
tent beating of the flour, which would de-
velop its gluten and make the bread
tough. First, the butter and the sugar
are creamed together-beaten until the
mixture is soft, fluffy and almost white.
This process may take 30 minutes by Starting the batter. In a large mixing bowl, crea m softened
hand, or 10 minutes with an electric mix-
er, but it aerates the butter-sugar mix-
ture to such an extent that the mixture
l unsalted butter a nd vanilla-flavored sugar together with an electric
mixer or, as here, by beating the mixture vigorously against the
sides of the bowl with a wooden spoon. When the mixture forms a
fluffy, white blend, add a raw egg and stir (right) until smooth.
almost triples in volume and constitutes
an additional lightener for the bread.
The sugar used here has been flavored by
leaving a whole vanilla bean in a covered
jar of sugar for a few days; this scented
sugar contributes a more subtle vanilla
taste than vanilla extract, although ex-
tract can be used if preferred.
Next, the creamed mixture is enriched
with an egg. Then, in alternate spoon-
fuls, the pureed fruit and dry ingredients
-flour, baking powder, salt and nut-
meg-are stirred in. Blending the ingre-
dients in small batches ensures that no
lumps form. Any solid elements-in this
case, nuts and dried fruits-are folded in
at the very end, before the batter is put
into a pan and baked.

4 5
Adding nuts and raisins. Chop Filling the loaf pan. Butter and
nuts coarse - in this case, pecans. Toss flour a loaf pan that is twice the volume of
raisins in a sieve with a spoonful of the batter. Scra pe the batter from the
flour; the flour will keep the raisins bowl into the pan, then level the batter
separate by coating their moist with the spoon or a spatula.
surfaces and will p revent them from
sinking to the bottom of the bread.
Add the raisins a nd the pecans to the
batter and stir briefly to mix them in.

82
 Mashing the bananas. Peel Adding dry ingredients and fruit. In a separate bowl, sift

2 large, ripe bananas, cut them into rough

chunks and put them in a bowl. Using
a fork o r, as above, a potato masher,
3 together flour, salt, baking powder and grated nutmeg . A spoonful
at a time, add the flour mixture (above, left) and the banana
puree(right) alternately to the creamed mixture, stirring after each
mash the bananas to a smooth pulp. addition so that the ingredients blend thorough ly.

6
Baking the bread. Bake the bread
in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for
an hour. To test for doneness, push a
skewer into the center of the loaf; if the
skewer comes out clean, the bread is
ready; if not, bake the loaf for 10 minutes
more and test again. Unmold the
bread and cool it o n a wire ra ck. Transfer
the bread to a b oard for slicing.

83
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

Pancakes- The Staple Breakfast Bread

Simple Disks Quickly Cooked
Savory or sweet, a pancake is no more
than a cooked disk ofleavened batter, but
the elements in pancake batters are sub-
ject to extensive variation and elabora-
tion (recipes, pages 159-162). The batter
can be based on almost any flour or com-
bination of flours-such as the mixture
of buckwheat and all-purpose flours used
for the pancakes demonstrated on these
pages. The liquid for the batter can be
milk, cream or fruit juice-combined, if
you like, with cottage or farmer cheese,
sour cream, fruit or vegetable purees, or
liqueurs. For richness, almost all pan-
cake batters contain butter and eggs. In
some pancakes, the eggs provide the only
leavening; however, most pancakes are

l
also lightened by yeast, sourdough start- Mixing batter. Sift buckwheat Adding egg whites. With a clean
er or, as here, baking powder.
Depending on the batter's proportions
of liquid and flour, pancakes can range
flour, all-purpose flour, salt, sugar and
baking powder into a mixing bowl.
Separate egg yolks from the whites. In
2 whisk, beat the egg whites until they form
stiff peaks. Whisk a spoonful of egg
white into the batter to lighten it. Pour the
another bowl or a pitcher, stir together rest of the whites onto the batter and,
from plump to almost transparently thin. milk and cooled melted butter, then stir in using a rubber spatula, gently fold in the
Whatever the formulation, the batter the egg yolks. Lightly whisk the liquids whites until the mixture is light and no
will blend more evenly if the dry ingre- into the dry ingredients to make a fluid trace of white is visible. Do not overmix,
dients and the liquids are first separately but slightly lumpy batter. lest the whites deflate.
mixed, then combined. If the batter con-
tains melted butter, cool the butter a lit-
tle before adding it, and be sure that the
other liquids are at room temperature-
otherwise, the butter will congeal. In
blending liquids and flour, stir only until A Filigree Frame for a Jam Topping
the mixture is evenly moist and fairly
smooth: Too much stirring overdevelops
the gluten in the flour, yielding tough
pancakes. As added insurance against
toughness, you can let the batter rest for
five to 10 minutes to relax the gluten.
Pancakes should be cooked on a heavy
griddle or pan so well seasoned (box, page
76) that it requires minimal greasing. In
correct culinary parlance, pancakes are
baked, not fried-a term that means
"cooking food in a fat or oil." Preheat the
griddle or.pan until it is hot enough to set
the batter instantly, but not so hot that
the pancakes burn (Step 3, top).
To shape simple pancakes, ladle pools
of batter onto the hot griddle. For more

l
Forming the base. Make pancake Cooking the filigree top. With a
elaborate effects, dribble the batter in
decorative patterns; these can be used in
conjunction with simple disks, as in the
bottom demonstration. Always serve the
botter(Steps 1 ond2, top). Coat a heated
griddle(Step 3, top) with a film of butter.
Ladle on enough batter to make a large
pancake. When bubbles appear on its
2 large spoon, dribble ribbons of pancake
batter onto the hot griddle to make an
openwork pattern approximately the
same size as the pancake base
pancakes immediately to prevent dry- surface, turn the pancake and finish (above, left) . When the first bubbles
ing-garnished with fruit, maple syrup, cooking (Step 4 , top). Transfer the break on top, carefully turn the filigree
jam or honey, or with sweetened whipped pancake to a heated plate. poncake(right), then finish cooking. Slide
or sour cream. the pancake onto a plate. ·

84
3 4 5
Forming pancakes. Set a heavy Finishing the cooking. Bake the Serving the pancakes. With the
griddle over medium heat and heat it pancakes for one to two minutes, until spatula, transfer the pancakes to hea ted
until drops of water thrown on the bubbles form all over their surfaces. plates, piling two or three pancakes
surface dance for a moment, then As soon as the first bubbles break, use a together for each serving. Top the stack
evaporate. Immediately brush the large metal spatula to flip the of pancakes with a knob of butter,
griddle with a film of butter or vegetable pancakes over. After 15 to 30 seconds, and pour on maple syrup (above) or a
oil. Using a pitcher or - as here- a lift the edge of a pancake with the fruit sauce or honey.
ladle, pour the batter into disks of the spatula. If the underside is golden brown,
desired size, spaced well apart. the pancake is done.

3
Assembling. Coat the surface of
the pancake base with thick sauce or
jam - raspberry jam is used in this
case. Carefully transfer the filigree
pancake to the top of the jam-
covered base. Garnish the assembly, if
you like, with whipped cream - here,
piped into a rosette from a pastry bag
fitted w ith a No. 7 star tube (right).

85
BREADS WITHO UT YEAST

A Range of Effects for WaHies

Ginger-accented Squares
The same batters that produce soft pan- ses and spices, in the other with apricot
cakes (pages 84-85) yield crisp waffies: puree (recipes, page 166). The handling
The different effect is achieved by sand- of eggs follows pancake-batter practice:
wiching the batter between the hinged, Egg whites are beaten separately before
checkered grids of a waffie iron to bake. they are added. However , because waffie
Most waffie irons used today are elec- batter is fully enclosed during baking
trically heated (right); however, some and cannot rise much, many cooks whisk
specialty shops sell old-fashioned irons in eggs whole.
that are used over direct heat (below). How much batter you u se for each waf-
Either type must be handled in a way fle depends on the texture you want:
that keeps the batter from sticking. The A thin layer produces crisp results; a
grids of old-fashioned irons and some thicker layer ma kes a softer waffie. Tex-
modern ones are made of cast iron; these ture also is determined by cooking time.
must be seasoned (box, page 76) before If cooked just until steam ceases to issue
use. (Electric irons with coated, nonstick from the iron, the waffie will be tender
grids do not require seasoning.) Preheat and light-colored. Longer cooking makes
all grids until they are hot enough to set the waffie darker and crisper.
the batter instantly. To ensure perfect re- Like pancakes, waffies are fine vehi-
sults, test any iron as described in Step 2 cles for garnishes. Attractive toppings Making batter. Separate eggs
at right. As soon as an iron is hot, brush it
lightly with melted butter.
In both demonstrations here, the bat-
for savory waffies include cheese sauce or
creamed chipped beef or chicken . Sugars,
syrups, jams, fruits and ice cream all are
1 and bea t the whites stiff. Whisk the yolks
with milk, molasses and melted butter.
Stir this mixture into a sifted blend of flour,
ter is flavored-in one case with molas- excellent garnishes for sweet waffies. sugar, baking powder, salt, ginger
and allspice. Fold in the whites.

Apricot-flavored Hearts

Pouring on batter. Heat the iron Serving. Cook for about a minute
fo r about fo ur minutes o n each side-
until water sprinkled on the grid s
stea ms b riefly and d isappears. Brush the
2 mo re, until no steam appears at the
edges of the iron. Open the iron
slightly; if the waffle sticks to the top grid,
grid s with b utter. Ladle batter - here, close the iron and cook for a few
apricot batter - o nto the bottom g rid moments more. Open the iron, lift off the
(above) a nd close the iron. After a waffle, trim away rough edges,
minute, gently turn the iro n over (right). garnish as desired, and serve.

86
 Removing the waffle. Lift the top

3 4
Cooking the batter. Ladle

2
Preparing the iron. Heat an
electric waffle iron until a few drops of enough batter onto the center of the of the iron slightly; if the waffle seems to
water sprinkled on the bottom grid bottom grid to almost cover it; you stick to the top grid, close the iron and
steam fo r a second, then vanish. may have to experiment to find the cook for a few moments more. When the
Immediately brush both grids very amount of batter needed . Close the waffle is done, slide wooden spatulas
lightly w ith melted butter. iron immediately and leave it closed fo r under it to lift it intact fro m the iron.
at least three minutes, until no steam
appears a t its edges.

5
Serving. Trim a ny rough edges from
the waffle, slice it into sections, and
transfer the sections to heated plates.
Sandwich sour cream between the
sections; if you like, top with more sour
cream and sprinkle with brown sugar.

87
BREADS WITH O UT YEAST

Corn Bread in a fiHing Form

Corn breads, sweet a nd golden, are made

much like other quick breads: Cornmeal
-often mixed with all-purpose flour and
usually leavened by baking powder-is
combined with liquids such as milk or
buttermilk, as well as with eggs, butter
and flavoring ingredients, and the re-
sulting batter is baked (recipes, pages
150-153). The batter can be molded into a
single loaf or cake (the traditional mold
is a cast-iron skillet) or, for individual
portions, into smaller shapes such as
muffins or the corn sticks shown here.
Corn sticks call for a cast-iron pan with
troughs molded like little ears of corn.
These pans are obtainable from kitchen-
equipment shops and should be well sea-
soned, as described in the box on page 76,
to help prevent the ba tter from sticking.

l
Making the batter. Lightly whisk Preparing the pan. Using a clea n
Even so, before being used the corn-stick
pan should be liberally coated with but-
ter-melted so that it can be brushed
eggs, then whisk in buttermilk. Into a
separate bowl, sift cornmeal, flour,
ba king powder a nd salt. Stir the liquid
2 paintbrush or, as here, a pastry brush,
generously coat the corn-stick molds
of the baking pa n with melted b utter. To
into every part of the molds -to ensure ingredients into the dry o nes just until make the crisFiest crusts, allow a
the batter is evenly blended. tab lespoonfu of b utter for each mold.
that the corn sticks will set without stick-
ing and develop crisp, golden crusts.

3
Baking. Sp oon the batter into each
corn-stick mold to within % inch [6 mm.]
of its rim. Pla ce the pan in a 350° F.
[ 180° C.] oven and ba ke the corn sticks
fo r 25 to 30 minutes, until golden and
shrinking from the sides of the molds.

4
Serving. Use a fork to ease the frag ile
corn sticks fro m the mold, and tongs to
transfer them to a serving dish. Serve
warm o r cool. Fo r a second batch, b utter
the molds a gain; the hot pa n will make
these corn sticks cook faster.

88
 <:Anthology
of~cipes
Drawing upon the cooking literature of more than 23 countries,
the editors and consultants for this volume have selected 201
published recipes for the Anthology that follows. The selections Basic Yeast Breads 90
range from the familiar to the fanciful- from bran muffins and
Boston brown bread to croissants filled with almond cream and
topped with icing and almond slivers.
Many of the recipes were written by world-renowned expo-
nents of the culinary art, but the Anthology also includes selec-
tions from rare and out-of-print books and from works that have
Enriched Yeast Breads 100
never been published in English. Whatever the sources, the
emphasis in these recipes is always on techniques that are prac-
tical for the home cook and that do justice to fine ingredients.
Since many early recipe writers did not specify amounts of
ingredients, sizes of pans or even cooking times and tempera-
Flavored Yeast Breads 107
t ures, the missing information has been judiciously added. In
some cases, instructions have been expanded. Where appropri-
ate, clarifying introductory notes have also been supplied; they
are printed in italics. Modern terms have been substituted for
archaic language; but to preserve the character of the original
Yeast Puff Breads 132
recipes and to create a true anthology, the authors' texts have
been changed as little as possible.
Recipes for standard preparations-basi c bread dough and
sourdough starters among them-appear at the end of the An-
thology. Unfamiliar cooking terms and uncommon ingredients
Breads without Yeast 136
are explained in the combined General Index and Glossary.
Most of the recipes for yeast breads have been standardized
to give quantities for both active dry yeast and fresh cake yeast;
the only exceptions occur where an author's method for incorpo-
rating yeast requires a particular type. Wherever the kind of
Doughnuts 154
flour is not specified, all-purpose flour can be used; if the recipe
is for a basic yeast bread, bread flour can also be used.
Apart from the primary components-flour , meal and leav-
ening-all ingredients are listed within each recipe in order of
use, with both the customary United States measurements and Pancakes and Waffles 159
the metric measurements provided. All quantities reflect the
American practice of measuring such solid ingredients as flour
or sugar by volume rather than by weight, as is done in Europe.
To make the quantities simpler to measure, many of the
figures have been rounded off to correspond to the gradations on Standard Preparations 164
U.S. metric spoons and cups. (One cup, for example, equals 237
milliliters; however, wherever practicable in these recipes, a
cup's equivalent appears as a more readily measured 250 milli-
liters-% liter.) Similarly, the weight, temperature and linear
metric equivalents have been rounded off slightly. Thus the Recipe Index 168
American and metric figures do not precisely match, but using
one set or the other will produce the same good results.
89
BASIC YEAST BREADS

somewhat because the dough lacks stiffness. They can also

be placed in long bread baskets lined with cloth and liberally
~asic ~ast ~reads sprinkled with flour. The baskets will direct the dough up-
ward during the rise period.
Recipes for basic bread dough and milk-and-butter dough Third and perhaps the best way to let long loaves rise is to
appear in Standard Preparations, page 164. place them in half-cylindrical, French-type metal bread-
baking pans. Round loaves can be placed on baking sheets to
rise, but because of the softness of this particular dough it is
better to use round cloth-lined baskets. Place the shaped
dough in the warm place and drape wax paper, supported on
Monsieur Montfort's French Bread water glasses, above the loaves. Leave until the loaves are
fully doubled. More rising, rather than less, is desirable. The
The author of this recipe, Yves Montfort, runs his own bakery longer the dough is allowed to rise, the larger the cell struc-
in the resort town of Benodet, in Brittany, France. ture will be in the baked loaf.
To make two 10-inch [25-cm.] round or Preheat the oven to 425° F. [220° C.] approximately 20
four 18-by-2-inch [45-by-5-cm.] minutes before putting the dough in it. Place a broiler pan or
cylindrical loaves a similar vessel on the lowest shelf. Five minutes before
baking, pour 1¥2 cups [375 ml.] of hot tap water into the pan.
7 to flour l% to If the loaves rose in a basket, tip each of them onto your hand
8 cups 2 liters and lower them gently onto baking sheets. With a razor
two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast two ?Y2 g. blade, slash the tops of the round loaves in a tick-tack-toe
design. Hold the blade at a 45-degree angle as you make the
4 tsp. salt 20 mi. cuts. For the long loaves, make a series of diagonal cuts.
3 cups tepid water %liter Brush or spray the loaves with water as you place them
in the hot oven. At three-minute intervals during the first 15
Into a large bowl, measure 7 cups [1% liters] of flour and stir minutes, spray the loaves. Do this from the oven door. Do not
in the yeast and salt. Form a well in the flour and pour in the pull out the loaves or the moist hot air will be lost. The loaves
water. With a wooden spoon, slowly pull the flour into the will be fully ovenproof (expanded) in about 18 minutes, at
liquid until it is fully absorbed. Work the dough into a ball by which time color will begin to tinge the crusts. If water re-
hand and put it on a lightly floured work surface. mains in the pan, empty it. Midway through the baking
The dough should be tacky. Begin turning and folding period and again near the end of it, shift the loaves to expose
the dough with a pastry scraper or putty knife. Sprinkle them equally to the temperature variations in the oven.
small amounts of flour on the work surface and your hands if Bake the loaves until golden brown-after a total time of
you must, but do so sparingly. Continue to lift, fold and turn 25 to 30 minutes. Turn over one loaf and rap the bottom crust
the dough for 10 minutes. Throw the dough down against the with your forefinger. A hard hollow sound indicates that the
work surface to break the lift-fold-turn rhythm. The dough bread is baked.
will become elastic but will continue to stick to your moist Take the bread from the oven. Put the loaves on a wire
fingers unless they are powdered with flour. rack to cool. The French baker stands his loaves on end so
Wash the large bowl, grease it and place the dough in it. cool air freely circulates around them. For a bright, shiny
Cover tightly with plastic wrap and set in a warm-70° F. crust, brush the loaves lightly with slightly salted water.
[21° C.]-place. Allow the dough to expand fully to double BERNARD CLAYTON JR.
its volume-about one and one half to two hours. Punch THE COMPLETE BOOK OF BREADS
down the dough, re-cover the bowl and let the dough double
in volume again.
Turn the dough onto the floured work surface, punch it
down and knead briefly to press out the air bubbles. Divide
the dough, which will weigh about 3% pounds [1% kg.] , into
as many loaves as you wish to make. Form the divided dough
into balls and let them rest for five minutes before shaping
the loaves. For a long loaf, flatten the ball into an oval. Fold
it over lengthwise, flatten with the side of your open hand,
fold again and roll the dough with the palms of your hands. If
the dough resists, let it rest for another three or four minutes
while preparing the other pieces. Return to the partially
formed length and continue to roll under the palms of your
hands until it is shaped. The seam will disappear.
The long pieces of dough can be placed directly on
greased baking sheets to rise, although they will slump
90
 Oat Flour Bread well-floured surface, place the loaves in buttered 8~-by-4~­
inch [21-by-11-cm.] loaf pans and cover them with a cloth.
Kauraleipii Let the loaves rise in a warm place until they double in bulk,
To make two 8-inch [20-cm.] round loaves about two hours.
Bake in a preheated 375° F. [190° C.] oven for one hour, or
3 cups oat flour % liter until the loaves sound hollow when rapped on the bottom.
2Y4 cups gluten flour 550 mi. BETTY GROFF AND JOSE WILSON
GOOD EARTH AND COUNTRY COOKING
two % oz. packages active dry yeast or two 7 Y2 g.
two 3/s oz. [18 g.] cokes fresh yeast
2 cups tepid water, whey or vegetable stock Y2 liter
1 tbsp. honey 15 mi.
1 Y2 tsp. sea salt 7 mi. Anadama Bread
Mix the yeast with the liquid. Stir in the gluten flour. Beat Anadama bread originated in New England. The name is
well until the mixture thickens. Then add the honey, salt said to come from a Gloucester fisherman whose wife Anna
and as much oat flour as necessary to make an elastic, soft refused to bake bread; he devised his own and named it
and silky dough. Knead the dough for about 20 minutes. "Anna, damn her."
Put the dough into a bowl, cover it and let it rise in a To make two 8 h-by-4 h-inch
warm place until it has doubled in bulk, about one hour. [21-by-11-cm.] loaves
Punch down the dough, divide it in half and shape it into two
round loaves. Place the loaves on baking sheets and prick about flou r about
the loaves all over with a fork. Cover and let them rise until 5 cups 1% liters
almost doubled in bulk, about 30 minutes. Bake the loaves in Y2 cup cornmeal 125 mi.
a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven for 25 to 30 minutes. For a
crisp crust, let them cool on a wire rack. It is best to eat the Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 1Y2 g.
bread when fresh as it does not keep well. [18 g.] coke fresh yeast
ULLA KAKONEN 2Y2 cups water 625 mi.
NATURAL COOKING THE FINNISH WAY
1 tsp. salt 5ml.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Y2 cup molasses 125 mi.
Blanche Frankehauser's
Old-fashioned Oatmeal Bread Stir 1 cup [1,4 liter] of cold water into the cornmeal. Bring
another cup of water to a rolling boil in a saucepan. Stirring
To make two 8 Y2-by-4 h-inch
constantly, pour in the cornmeal mixture. Stirring from
[2 1-by- 11-cm. ] loaves time to time, cook the mixture until it is very thick-about
5% cups sifted flour 1 Y2 liters 10 minutes. Add the salt, butter and molasses. Let the mix-
Y4 liter ture cool to tepid.
1 cup rolled oats
Warm the remaining water until it is tepid, and stir the
two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast two 7Y2 g. yeast into it. Add this mixture to the cooled cornmeal and
2 cups boiling water Y2 liter gradually stir in about 4~ cups [about 1 liter] of the flour,
kneading to make a stiff dough. Knead well for about 10
5 tbsp. butter 75 mi. minutes until the dough is springy; ifit remains too sticky, it
Y2 cup light molasses 125 mi. may be necessary to add more flour. Shape the dough into a
ball, put it into a buttered bowl, cover and let the dough rise
4 tsp. salt 20 mi. in a warm place for about one and one half hours, or until
2 eggs, lightly b eaten 2 doubled in bulk.
Punch down the dough and divide it into two pieces.
Combine the boiling water with the oats, butter, molasses Shape each piece into a loaf and put the loaves in buttered
and salt. Cool the mixture to tepid, then add the yeast and 8~-by-4Vz-inch [21-by-11-cm.] loaf pans. Cover the pans
mix well. Blend in the eggs and stir in the flour. The dough with a cloth and leave them in a warm place until the dough
will be softer than a kneaded dough. Place the dough in a has doubled in bulk again, about 30 minutes. Bake the
buttered bowl, cover it and store it in the refrigerator for at loaves in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for one hour, or
least two hours, or until needed. until the loaves sound hollow if rapped on the bottom.
Remove the chilled dough and knead it about five times MARIA CHAMBERLIN-HELLMAN (EDITOR)
(this helps to remove the air). Shape it into two loaves on a FOOD NOTES

91
BASI C YEAST BREADS

Wheat-Germ-Millet Bread dough. Add the yeast mixture and the corn syrup, and keep
on kneading the dough. When it is smooth and glossy, cover
To make two 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13 -cm.] loaves it with a cloth and let it rise in a warm place for 24 hours.
3 to 4 cups whole-wheat flour %to 1 liter Knead the dough again for about five minutes, and di-
vide it in half. Put the dough into two 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-
1 cup coarsely cracked millet Y4 liter cm.] loaf pans, making sure the pans are no more than half-
Y2 cup wheat germ 125 mi. full. Stand the pans in a warm place until the dough rises to
the rims of the pans. Bake the loaves in a preheated 400° F:
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7Y2 g . [200° C.] oven for 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature
3/s oz. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast
to 375° F . [190° C.] for the rest of the baking time, about 30
1% cups boiling water, Y4 cup [50 mi.] cooled 425 mi. minutes. Test the loaves with a skewer to see if they are
to tepid done: Ifthey are, the skewer will come out clean. Remove the
loaves from the oven, then brush the surfaces lightly with
Y4 cup honey 50 mi. tepid water, and turn them out onto a wire rack to cool. Wrap
2 tsp. salt 10 mi. them in a cloth until they are cold, to prevent them from
becoming too crusty.
2 tbsp. oil 30 mi.
INGA NORBERG
GOOD FOOD FROM SWEDEN
Combine the millet and wheat germ in a large bowl; pour 1 Vz
cups [375 ml.] of boiling water over them and set aside. Mix
the yeast into ~ cup [50 ml.] of tepid water and set aside.
Add the honey, salt and oil to the millet-and-wheat-germ Homemade Italian Milk Bread
mixture. When this mixture has cooled to tepid, a dd the
yeast and 1 Vz cups of the flour. Beat vigorously to develop the Pane al Latte Fatto in Casa
gluten in the flour; add enough of the remaining flour to To make two 8-inch [20-cm. ] round
make the dough smooth and workable; knead well. Set the loaves or 20 rolls
dough aside in an oiled bowl, covered with a damp cloth, to
rise for one hour, or until doubled in bulk. 4 cups flour 1 liter
Punch down the dough, shape it into two loaves, a nd 2% cups w hole-wheat flour 625 mi.
place the loaves in two 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-cm.] loaf pan s
or on a baking sheet. Let the dough rise once more, for about two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast o r two two 7% g.
3/s oz. [ 18 g.] cakes fresh yeast
one hour, then bake in a preheated 375° F. [190° C.] oven for
50 minutes. Remove t he loaves from the pans or the baking 1 tsp. sugar 5 ml.
sheet immediately, and let them cool slightly on a wire rack
1 1/2 cups tepid milk, mixed with 1 112 cups 375 mi.
before slicing them.
[375 mi.] tepid wa ter
MARLENE ANNE BUMGARNER
THE BOOK OF WHOLE GRAINS 2 tsp. salt 10ml.

In a large bowl, combine the yeast and sugar with 6 table-

spoon s [90 ml.] of t he tepid milk-and-water mixture. Stir
Swedish Tin Loaves well, leave in a warm place until the yeast foams, then add
the remaining liquid. Stir in the flours and the salt, and
To make two 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13- em.] loaves knead to make a fairly soft dough , adding more tepid water if
3Y2 cups all-purpose flour 875 mi. necessary. Turn the dough onto a work surface sprinkled
with additional a ll-purpose flour and knead the dough for 10
7 cups dark rye flour 1% liters minutes, or until it is smooth and elastic. Divide and shape
two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast or two 7 % g. the dough into 20 balls or into two large round loaves, a nd
two 3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast place them on buttered baking sh eets. Cover the rolls or
loaves with a cloth and let them rise in a warm place for
4 cups milk, Y2 cup [ 125 mi.] warmed to tepid 1 liter about one and a half hours, or until a floured finger poked
2 tsp. salt 10 mi. into the dough leaves a dent that does not spring back imme-
fennel seeds, po unded in a mortar
diately. Glaze the rolls or loaves with milk, if you like.
2 tbsp. 30 mi. Bake the bread in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven -
(o ptional)
about 25 to 30 minutes for the rolls or 50 minutes .to one hour
1 cup light corn syrup Y4 liter for the loaves. Both the rolls and loaves should be golden
brown and should sound slightly hollow when rapped on the
Mix the yeast with the Vz cup [125 ml.] of tepid milk. Sift the bottom. Cool them on wire racks.
all-purpose and rye flours, salt and pounded fennel seeds, if MARIO SALVATORI DE ZULIANI
using. Add the cold milk and work the mixture into a smooth LA CUCINA DI VERSILIA E GARFAGNANA

92
 Dutch Brown Bread Pinwheel Bread
Bruin Brood To make three 7 Y2-by-3 Y2-inch
To make one 9-by-5-inch [19-by-9-cm.] /ooves
[23-by-13-cm.] loaf about unbleached all-purpose flou r, sifted about
3 cups whole-wheat flour ..4 liter
3 10 cups 2Y2 liters
1Y4 cups oil-purpose flou r 300 mi. 2Y2 cups whole-wheat flou r 625 mi.

Y4 oz. package active dry yeast, plus 1 tsp. 7% g. two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast or two lY2 g.
[5 mi.] sugar, or 3/s oz. [18 g.] cake two 3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast
fresh yeast 2 cups milk Y2 liter
about tepid milk or water about 8 tbsp. vegetable shortening 120 mi.
1 Y4 cups 300 mi.
Y2 cup sugar 125 mi.
1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
2 tbsp. salt 30ml.
1 tbsp. butter, softened (optional) 15 mi.
2 cups water, 1 cup [Y4 liter] heated to tepid Y2 liter
Mix the yeast and sugar, if using, with the tepid milk or Y4 cup molasses 50 mi.
water and let stand for 10 minutes. Combine the whole-
wheat and all-purpose flours in a mixing bowl and make a Scald the milk in a saucepan. Mix together the shortening,
well in the center. Pour the yeast mixture into the well. sugar and salt, and blend in the milk. Add 1 cup[~ liter] of
Gradually work in the flours , add the salt and finally the cold water and cool the mixture to tepid. Mix the yeast with 1
butter, if using. Knead the dough thoroughly for 10 minutes, cup of tepid water and add to the milk mixture. Blend the
or until it is smooth and elastic. Cover the bowl with a damp mixture well. Add 4 cups [1liter] of the all-purpose flour and
cloth and let the dough rise in a warm place for at least one beat until smooth (with an electric mixer, one minute at
and a h a lf hours, or until it has doubled in bulk. medium speed). Cover the dough with a dish towel and allow
On a floured board, form the risen dough into a ball. it to rise in a warm, draft-free place until light and doubled
Place the dough on a buttered baking sheet, cover it with a in bulk (approximately one hour).
cloth and let it rise for about 20 minutes. To test whether the Divide the dough into two equal portions. Place each in a
dough is well risen, push two finger tips into the top of it; if separate bowl. Blend 3 'n to 4 cups[% to 1liter] of the all-
the impressions remain in the dough, it is ready. purpose flour into one portion to form a stiff dough. Stir the
Put the dough on a floured board. Punch it down and molasses into the second portion, and add the whole-wheat
knead it for about five minutes. Form it into a ball again, flour a nd as much of the remaining all-purpose flour as is
return it to the baking sheet and let it rise for 10 minutes. necessary to form a dough that doesn't stick to your fingers.
Remove the dough to the floured board, punch it down again Knead the light and dark doughs separately on a floured
and roll it out into an elongated oval shape. Fold the ends board until smooth and elastic (approximately five to seven
toward the center and shape the dough into a rectangle. Roll minutes each). Place the doughs in two large greased bowls,
out the dough again, shape it into a loaf and place it in a t urning them over once to grease the tops. Cover each bowl
buttered 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-cm.] loaf pan. Cover, and let with a dish towel and allow the doughs to rise in a warm,
it rise for 25 minutes. draft-free place for one and one half hours, or until they have
Uncover the pan and bake the loaf in a preheated 450° F. doubled in bulk. If the whole-wheat dough has not risen
[220° C.] oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the surface is sufficiently by this t ime, let it rise a little longer and proceed
brown a nd crisp. The loaf should sound hollow when it is to shape the white dough.
unmolded and rapped underneath. Let it cool on a wire rack. Divide each dough into three parts. Roll out each part on
C. A. H. HAITSMA MULIER-VAN BEUSEKOM (EDITOR) a lightly floured board to a 12-by-8-inch [30-by-20-cm.] rec-
CU LINAIRE ENCYCLOPEDIE
tangle. Place one dark rectangle on top of one light rectangle
and roll them up tight like a jelly roll, beginning at the 8-
inch [20-cm.] end. Press both doughs together firmly and
tuck the ends of the loaf under. Repeat the process with the
remaining dough. Place each loaf in a well-greased 7~-by-
3'n-inch [19-by-9-cm.] loaf pan. Cover the loaves with a dish
towel and let them rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk
(approximately one hour). Bake the loaves in a preheated
375° F. [190° C.] oven for 45 to 50 minutes, or until they
sound hollow when the bottoms are rapped.
YVONNE YOUNG TARR
THE NEW YORK TIMES BREAD AND SOUP COOKBOOK

93
BASIC YEAST BREADS

Sprouted-Wheat Bread the rolled portion to the flat portion every half turn or so.
Pinch the ends closed. Fit each loaf snugly into a buttered
To make two 8 %-by-4 Y2-inch 81h-by-4 Yz-inch [21-by-11-cm.) loaf pan, shaping it higher in
[21-by-11-cm.] loaves the center than at the sides and ends. Cover the loaves with a
4 Y2 cups whole-wheat flour 1 Y4 liters towel and let them rise in a warm place until they are dou-
bled in size - about 30 minutes.
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7Y2 g.
Bake the loaves in the center of a preheated 350° F. [180°
3/s oz.
[18 g.] cake fresh yeast
C.] oven for 45 to 55 minutes. When the bread shrinks slight-
1 Y2 cups tepid water 375 mi. ly away from the sides of the tins, turn out a loaf and rap it on
40 mi.
the bottom. Ifthe sound is hollow, the bread is done. If the
2 tbsp. brown sugar
sound is dull, remove both loaves from the pans, place them
plus 2 tsp.
directly on the oven shelf and bake them a few minutes
2 tbsp. safflower or sunflower oil 30 mi. longer. Brush the tops of the loaves with the butter and cool
1 Y2 tsp. salt 7ml. them, covered with a towel, on a rack.
HELEN WITIY AND ELIZABETH SCHNEIDER COLCHIE
2 tbsp. cider vinegar 30 mi. BETIER THAN STORE-BOUGHT

1 tbsp. molasses 15ml.

V3 cup toasted wheat germ 75 mi.
Y4 cup sesame seeds 50 mi. The Grant Loaf
2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 30ml. To make one loaf, use 3 Yzcups [875 ml.]ofwhole-wheat flour,
one 14 oz. [7 Yz g.] package of active dry yeast or one %oz. [18
Sprouted wheat g.] cake offresh yeast, 1 teaspoon [5 ml.] of salt, about 1lh cups
Y3 cup wheat berries 75 mi. [375 ml.] of water and 1 teaspoon of brown s ugar.

1 cup water %liter To make three 9-by-5-inch

[23-by-13-cm.] loaves
To sprout the wheat, soak the berries in the water overnight, 10Y2 cups stone-ground whole-wheat flour 2 Y2 lite rs
or for about 12 hours. Drain them, then place them in a quart
[1liter]jar and cover it with nylon mesh or cheesecloth held two packages a ctive dry yeast or two
in place with a rubber band. Set the jar out of direct light (or, Y4 oz. two 3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast 7Y2 g.
better yet, in a cupboard) and let the wheat germinate for 2 tsp. salt 10 mi.
about two days, or until the sprouts are lh to % inch [1 to 2
5 cups tepid water 1 Y4 liters
em.] high. Rinse the sprouts with tepid water three or four
times daily and drain them well; do not let them stand in 1 tbsp. brown sugar, honey or dark molasses 15 mi.
water between rinsings. When they are ready, you will have
about 114 cups [300 ml.] of sprouts. Mix the salt with the flour. In very cold weather, warm the
To make the bread, combine Yz cup [125 ml.] of tepid flour slightly-enough to take off the chill. Place in a cup 3
water with the yeast and half a teaspoon [2 ml.] of the brown tablespoons [45 ml.] of tepid water, the fresh yeast and the
sugar. Let the mixture stand in a warm place until very sugar, honey or dark molasses. If using active dry yeast,
foamy, about 10 minutes. In a large mixing bowl, stir togeth- sprinkle it on top of the water and leave for two minutes or so
er 1 cup [14 liter] of tepid water, the remaining brown sugar, for the yeast to soften before adding the sweetener. In about
and the oil, salt, vinegar and molasses. Beat in thoroughly 10 to 15 minutes this mixture should have produced a thick,
1\12 cups [375 ml.] of the flour, then add the yeast mixture. creamy froth. Pour this into the flour and add the rest of the
Beat in the wheat germ, sesame seeds and thoroughly water. Mix well-by hand is best-for a minute or so, work-
drained wheat sprouts. Work in enough of the remaining ing from the sides to the middle, until the dough feels elastic
flour (about 3 cups[% liter]) to make a stiff dough. Knead and leaves the sides of the mixing bowl clean.
the dough on a floured board, adding more flour as needed, Butter three 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-cm.] loaf pans and
until it is elastic and no longer sticky-about 10 minutes. leave them in a warm place. Divide the dough, which should
Shape the dough into a ball, turn it around the inside of a be slippery but not wet, into thirds and place these in the
large, buttered bowl, and place it so that its buttered side is warmed pans. Put the pans in a warm place, cover them with
uppermost. Cover the bowl with a towel and let the dough a cloth and leave them for about 20 minutes, or until the
rise in a warm place until doubled-one hour or more. dough rises to within Y2 inch [1 em.] of the rims of the pans.
Punch the dough down and divide it in half. Let it rest for Bake the loaves in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.) oven for
10 minutes, covered with a towel. To form each piece of approximately 35 to 40 minutes, or until they sound hollow
dough into a loaf, first roll it out into a rectangle about Yz when rapped on the bottom.
inch [1 em.) thick and 8 inches [20 em.] wide. Beginning at DORIS GRANT
one short end, roll up the dough, jelly-roll fashion, pinching YOUR DAILY FOOD: RECIPE FOR SURVIVAL

94
 Bread with Rolled Oats tepid. Mix the yeast with 1 Jf.l cups [300 ml.] of the tepid rice-
cooking liquid, stir in the sugar and leave the mixture in a
Kraftbrot mit Haferflocken warm place until it foams, about 10 minutes.
To make two 8 %-by-4 Y2-inch Sift the flour into a bowl and mix the rice with it thor-
[2 1-by-1 1-cm. ] loaves oughly. Add the salt, the yeast mixture and the rest of the
cooking liquid and knead the dough for about 15 minutes, or
6 cups flour 1% liters until it is smooth. Let the dough rise in a warm place, cov-
2213 cups rolled oats 650 mi. ered with a cloth, for about one and a half hours, or until
doubled in bulk. Knead the dough again and divide it among
two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast or two 7Y2 g.
six buttered 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-cm.] loaf pans, so that the
two 3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast
dough comes only halfway up the sides of the pans. Leave the
1Y2 cups tepid milk or water 375 mi. pans in a warm place, covered with a cloth, for the dough to
2 medium-sized potatoes, boiled,
rise for 30 minutes, or until it reaches the rims of the pans.
2
peeled and mashed (optional)
Bake the loaves in a preheated 450° F. [230° C.] oven for
about 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 400° F .
1 tbsp. butter or lard, softened 15ml. [200° C.] and bake for a further 30 minutes, or until the
1 tbsp. salt 15 mi. loaves are golden brown and sound slightly hollow when
rapped on the bottom.
Mix the yeast into the tepid liquid, and let stand for 10 min- THE RIGHT HON. LADY LLANOVER
utes. Sift the flour, make a well in the center, and pour in the GOOD COOKERY

yeast mixture. Mix together to make a sponge and let it rise

in a warm place for about one hour, or until doubled in bulk.
Work into the sponge the oats, the potatoes, if using, the
butter or lard, and the salt. Knead the dough until bubbles
appear in it-about 15 minutes. Divide the dough into two
Hertfordshire Barley Bread
equal parts. Butter two 8¥2-by-4¥2-inch [21-by-11-cm.] loaf Made to Eat Like Wheaten Bread
pans and lightly press the dough into them. Let the loaves This recipe,published in 1750, is said by the author to make a
rise for about 30 minutes in a warm place, or until the top of wholesome bread, lightened and sweetened by the addition of
the dough is about ¥2 inch [1 em.] above the rims of the pans. oatmeal. Barley bread was widely eaten in England in the
Bake in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for one to one and 18th and early 19th Centuries when only the wealthy could
a quarter hours, or until golden brown. afford wheat flour.
HERMINE KIEHNLE AND MARIA HADECKE
DAS GROSSE KIEHNLE-KOCHBUCH To make four 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-cm.] /ooves
12 cups barley flour (3 lb. [l Y2 kg.]) 3 liters
4 cups steel-cut oatmeal, soaked in 3 Y2 cups 1 liter
[875 mi.] water for two hours
The Hermit's Rice Bread
three packages active dry yeast or three
This recipe comes from a collection published in 1867 and %oz. three 3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast 7Y2 g.
was allegedly acquired by the author from a Welsh hermit.
Rice bread is extremely light and keeps very well; even so, 1% cu ps tepid milk or water 300 mi.
most modern cooks will want to reduce the recipe by using
only one half, or one third, of the amounts called for. Mix the yeast with the tepid milk or water, and leave the
mixture in a warm place for about 10 minutes. Combine the
To make six 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-cm .] oatmeal, barley flour and yeast, and knead the mixture into
loaves a dough. The dough will require very little kneading. Let it
24 cups flour (6 lb. [3 kg.]) 6 liters rise in a warm place for one and a half hours, or until it has
doubled in bulk.
three packages active dry yeast or three three Divide the dough into four portions and knead them
y4 oz. 3/s
oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast 7% g. lightly. Put each portion into a buttered 9-by-5-inch [23-by-
1 cup raw unprocessed rice Y4 liter 13-cm.] loaf pan. Let the loaves rise in a warm place for 20
minutes, or until they have risen about ¥2 inch [1 em.] above
7Y2 cups boiling salted water 1% liters
the rims of the pans. Bake the loaves in a preheated 400° F.
2 tsp. sugar 10 mi. [200° C.] oven for about 50 minutes, or until the loaves sound
slightly hollow when rapped. Thus a barley loaf may be
2 tsp. salt 10ml.
made hollow, white and sweet, so as to be hardly known from
Boil the rice in the water until it is soft, about 20 minutes. coarse wheaten bread.
W. ELLIS
Drain the rice, reserving the liquid. Let the liquid cool until THE COUNTRY HOUSEWIFE'S FAMILY COMPANION

95
BASIC YEAST BREADS

Fried Flatbread 10 minutes. Beat in the remaining warm water, the olive oil
and salt. Beat in the gluten flour and beat vigorously for two
Bortellina Bettolese or three minutes. Gradually add a ll-purpose flour until the
To make about twenty 4-inch [10-cm. ] mixture is too stiff to beat, then t urn the dough out onto a
round flatbreads ~oured work surface and knead well, adding enough addi-
tional all-purpose flour to make an elastic, nonsticky but
8 cu ps fl our 21iters not-too-stiff dough. Form the dough into a cylinder about 14
two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast or two two l Y2 g. inches [35 em.) long and cut it into 14 slices. Lay the slices 2
3/s oz. [18 g.) cokes fresh yeast or 3 inches [5 or 8 em.) apart on a floured towel. Cover with a
dry cloth, then with·a well-dampened one, and let the slices
about tepid water about rise until doubled, about one hour.
2Y2 cups 625 mi. On a floured surface, roll each piece of dough into a round
salt about 6 inches [15 em.) in diameter. Lay the rounds on bak-
ing sheets sprinkled with cornmeal, spacing the rounds at
7 tbsp. lord lOS mi. least 2 inches apart. (You will need four or more baking
sheets for this quantity of dough.) Cover with dry cloths
Mix half of the yeast with '!.l cup [50 ml.) of tepid water. Stir topped with damp ones and let the loaves rise for 30 minutes:
in 1 cup [?4 liter) of the flour and 1 cup of tepid water. Leave The dough should be not quite doubled.
this sponge for 30 minutes, or until foaming. While the loaves are rising, preheat the oven to 475° F.
Put the rest of the flour into a bowl. Add the yeast sponge, [250° C.). If yours is a gas oven, put one baking sheet directly
sal~ and the rest o~ the yeast, if using fresh yeast. If using
on the oven floor and bake the loaves for four and one h alf
active dry yeast, mix the rest of the yeast with 3 tablespoons minutes (they will balloon), then transfer the pan to the top
[45 ml.] of tepid water, then add to the sponge and dry ingre- shelf, at the same time putting another baking sheet ofpita
?ients. Mix the ~~gredients together, gradually incorporat- on the oven floor. At the end of the second four-and-a-half-
mg enough additiOnal tepid water to make a firm dough. minute period, remove the upper sheet from the oven, move
Knead the dough until it forms a smooth, soft ball. the lower sheet to the upper shelf and put the third sheet on
Let the dough rest for 10 minutes, then divide it into the bottom, proceeding in this way until all of the loaves are
small pieces and flatten them into rounds about 4 inches [10 baked. If yours is an electric oven, follow the same leapfrog
em.) in diameter. method, but bake the loaves first on a shelf placed as close as
In a heavy cast-iron skillet, melt the lard over medium possible to the bottom of the oven before transferring them to
heat. Fry the rounds in several batches until they are golden the upper shelf.
brown, about eight to 10 minutes on each side. As the bread is removed from the oven, stack the rounds
CARMEN ARTOCCHINI
400 RICETTE DELLA CUCINA PIACENTINA
and. wrap them in a dry towel, then in a damp one. Keep
addmg to the stack and rewrapping it, then a llow all the
loaves to cool thoroughly (unless you want to serve some of
the bread right away). The loaves will deflate, but t he pock-
ets will remain. Store in plastic bags, or freeze . Before serv-
ing, rewarm the pita.
Middle Eastern Pocket Bread HELEN WITTY AND ELIZABETH SCHNEIDER COLCHIE
Pita BETTER THAN STORE-BOUGHT

To make fourte.en 6-inch [15-cm.] flatbreads

about all-purpose flo ur' about
4Y2 cups l liter
l cup gluten flour %liter
3/s oz.
Yemenite Pita or Flapiack Bread
%oz. package active dry yeast or l Y2 g.
[18 g.) coke fresh yeast Lakhoach or Khubs
2% cups tepid water 550 mi. Lakhoa_c~, Yemenite bread, looks like an American flapjack
before It IS turned over: brown on one side and doughy-dry
l tsp. sugar Sml. and bubbly on the other. The same ingredients (but double
l tsp. olive oil Sml. the am~unt of flour) make khubs, or Yemenite pita. La-
khoach IS made on a heavy pan or griddle (the Yemenites
2 tsp. salt l Oml. bake it just as the Bedouins do-on a rounded iron over
corn meal embers); khubs are baked as they were in Biblical times, on
the wall of a "tannour," a primitive oven heated with embers
~ombine '!.l ~~P
[50 ml.) of tepid water, the sugar and yeast and with the fire put out before the baking. Khubs stick to
m a large mixmg bowl and let stand until very foamy, about the wall of the oven and, when ready, are lifted off with a
96
 kind of spatula. Lakhoach and khubs are eaten rolled up and Pour spoonfuls of batter to half-fill the rings, and let the
dipped into hibeh and schoog-spicy Yemenite condi- crumpets cook for about five minutes. Turn over each crum-
ments-or into the gravy of the Yemenites' soupy stews. pet when the surface loses its liquid appearance, and cook for
To make about ten to twelve 8-inch a further 30 seconds. Remove the crumpets from the griddle,
[20-cm.] round flatbreads ease off the rings and start again with some more batter.
Eat these crumpets with plenty of butter. They make
3 cups flour for lakhoach , or 6 cups [1% liters] %liter good bases for fried eggs, or scrambled eggs with anchovies.
for khubs Some people like them with syrup as well as butter.
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 1Y2 g. JANE GRIGSON
3/s oz.
[18 g.] cake fresh yeast ENGLISH FOOD

3 cups tepid water 3

.4 liter
1 tsp. salt 5ml.
Mix the yeast with~ cup [50 ml.] of the water. Then mix all
of the ingredients together and set the batter or dough aside
to rise for two or more hours. For lakhoach, ladle out 'h cup Burger Buns
[125 ml.] of batter at a time onto a heavy cast-iron pan or To make 20 buns
griddle, and cook until the bubbles on the top are set and the
surrounding area is cooked-abou t three minutes. Remove SY2 to flou r 1 Y2 to
6Y2 cups 1% liters
from the griddle and serve hot or cold.
For khubs, divide the dough into 12 balls, roll out each two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast two 7Y2 g.
ball as thin as possible and bake for about five minutes in a
preheated 450° F. [230° C.] oven.
Y3 cup instant nonfat dry milk 75 mi.
MOLLY LYONS BAR-DAVID Y4 cup sugar 50 mi.
THE ISRAELI COOK BOOK
1 tbsp. salt 15ml.
5 tbsp. butter, softened 75 mi.
1 Y2 cups hot water ( 120° to 130° F. 375 mi.
[49° to 54° C.])
Crumpets
The technique of making crumpets is shown on pages 56-57. Combine the dry milk, sugar, yeast, salt and 2 cups ['h liter]
of the flour in a large mixing bowl. Cut in the softened but-
To make 8 to 10 crumpets ter. Stir the hot water slowly into the mixture, blending
4 cups flour 1 liter well. Beat for two minutes at the medium speed of an electric
3/s oz.
mixer, scraping the bowl from time to time. Blend in % cup
cake fresh yeast 18 g . [175 ml.] of the remaining flour and beat for two minutes at
2Y2 cups tepid milk 625 mi. high speed, stopping occasionally to scrape the bowl.
Make a stiff dough by blending in as much of the remain-
1 tsp. salt 5 mi. ing flour as necessary. Knead the dough on a lightly floured
1 tsp. baking soda 5ml. board for eight to 10 minutes, or until it becomes elastic and
about tepid water
smooth. Grease a large bowl and set the dough in it, turning
about
Y4 cup the dough over to grease the top. Allow the dough to rise,
50 mi. covered, in a warm, draft-free place until it doubles in vol-
melted lard ume (approximatel y 45 minutes).
Using your fist, punch down the dough. Cover it and
Warm the flour in a bowl by setting it over the pilot light of a allow it to rise again for only 20 minutes. Before the dough
gas stove or in a 200° F. [100° C.] oven. Combine the yeast doubles in size, cut it into two equal parts and divide each
with V3 cup [75 ml.] of the milk and use a fork to crumble the part into 10 pieces of equal size. Shape each piece into a ball.
yeast. It will soon cream and swell into frothiness. Flatten the balls into bun shapes and place them about 2
Make a well in the center of the flour and pour in both the inches [5 em.] apart on greased baking sheets.
yeast mixture and the rest of the tepid milk. Beat for a good Let the buns rise once more, covered, in a warm, draft-
five minutes. Cover the bowl and let the batter rise in a free place until doubled in volume. This should take approxi-
warm place for an hour. Dissolve the baking soda in the tepid mately one hour. Preheat the oven to 375° F. [190° C.] and
water, add it to the mixture, beating it in thoroughly, then bake the buns for 15 or 20 minutes. Slide the buns off the
let the batter rise for another hour. baking sheets and cool them on wire racks.
Grease a griddle with the lard and grease the crumpet YVONNE YOUNG TARR
rings. Place the rings on the griddle and heat the griddle. THE NEW YORK TIMES BREAD AND SOUP COOKBOOK

97
BASI C YEAST BREADS

Split Rolls
Les Pistolets
These split rolls-small, round milk rolls with a distinc-
tive indentation across the top-are a specialty of eastern
France. The groove is usually made with an oiled stick. The
stick may also be used dry, provided the tops of the rolls have
been moistened with a little oil. Huffkins
To make about 40 rolls To make ten 3-inch [8-cm.] rolls
9 cups flour 2 Y4 liters 4 cups flour 1 liter
package active dry yeast o r 7Y2 g. Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7Y2 g .
oz. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast
3/s [18 g.] cake fresh yeast
3/s oz.

2 tbsp. unflavored malt extract 30 mi. 1 tsp . sugar 5ml.

2 to 3 cups tepid water Y2 to % liter 1Y4 cups tepid water 300 mi.

2 tsp. salt 10ml. 1 tsp. salt 5ml.

3 tbsp. sugar 45 mi. In a cup, mix the yeast with the sugar and half of the water.
YJ cup nonfat dry milk 75 mi. Leave the mixture in a warm place until it is frothy, about 10
105 mi.
minutes. Sift the flour and salt together, mix in the yeast
7 tbsp. butter, softened and the rest of the water. Knead the dough for about 10
oil minutes, or until it is smooth and elastic; let it rise in a warm
rye flour
place for one and a halfhours, or until it has doubled in bulk.
Shape the dough into 10 balls, and press a hole in the
Mix the yeast with ¥3 cup [75 ml.] of tepid water and the malt center of each with your finger. Place the huflkins on a large
extract. Leave it until it is foaming, about 10 minutes. Sift baking sheet and let them rise in a warm place for 20 min-
the flour, salt, sugar and dry milk into a bowl and make a utes, or until well risen again. Bake them in a preheated
well in the center. Pour in the yeast mixture and 1% cups 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 15 minutes, or until golden brown.
[400 ml.] of tepid water. Mix, adding more water if neces- Eat them on the day they are baked.
FLORENCE WHITE
sary, to form a firm dough. GOOD ENGLISH FOOD
Turn the dough out onto a floured board and knead it well
for about 10 minutes, or until it is smooth and elastic, then
let it rest for 15 minutes. Mix in the softened butter and
knead vigorously for a further five minutes: The dough
should be fairly firm. Put the dough into a bowl, cover it with
a cloth or plastic wrap and let it rise at warm room tempera- Soft Pretzels
ture for about three hours, or overnight in the refrigerator,
until more than tripled in bulk. The techniques of shaping pretzels appear on pages 30-31 .
Punch down the dough, turn it over and cover the bowl. To make 12 pretzels
Let the dough rise again until doubled in bulk, about two
about all-purpose flour about
hours. Punch down the dough again and divide it into about
3 cups % liter
40 equal-sized pieces. Shape each piece into a ball about 1¥2
inches [3 em.] in diameter. Make a deep groove with an oiled %cup gluten flour 175 mi.
stick across each ball, and dust the surface with rye flour to 71!2 g .
y4 oz. package active dry yeast
prevent the two halves of the roll from sticking together
during baking. Transfer the rolls, grooves downward, to a 1Y2 cups tepid water 375 mi.
floured surface and let them rise again for 30 minutes. 20 mi.
4 tsp . sugar
Preheat the oven to 425° F. [220° C.]. Twenty minutes
before baking, put a pan of hot water on the floor or bottom 1 tsp. table salt 5 mi.
shelf of the oven. Transfer the rolls with the grooves upward 3 tbsp. ba king soda 45 mi.
to floured baking sheets. Bake the rolls for 25 to 30 minutes,
or until they are golden brown and feel hard and hollow. 1 tbsp. coarse salt, preferably sea salt 15 mi.
RAYMOND CALVEL
LA BOULANGERIE MODERNE In a small bowl, combine ¥2 cup [125 ml.] of tepid water with
1 teaspoon [5 ml.] of the sugar and the yeast. Let rise until
fluffy, about 10 minutes. Combine 1 cup [ Y-4 liter] of tepid
98
water, the table salt, the gluten flour and 1 cup of the all- utes. Sift the flour and 1 teaspoon [5 ml.] of salt into a bowl.
purpose flour in the large bowl of an electric mixer; beat Make a well in the center and pour in the yeast mixture. Add
these ingredients until well blended. Add the yeast mixture '4 cup [50 ml.] of tepid water to the well and stir it into the
and beat on medium-low speed for four or five minutes. Stir yeast mixture, drawing in a little of the flour from the edge of
in 11h cups [375 ml.] more flour. the well. Cover the bowl and leave it in a warm place for 10
Turn the dough onto a floured work surface and knead minutes, or until the yeasty liquid begins to foam.
until very smooth and shiny, adding about lh cup of flour as Add the butter to the milk and heat them in a small pan
you knead. Form the dough into a ball and place it in an until the butter melts. Cool this mixture to tepid and pour it
ungreased bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the into the well. Add lh cup [125 ml.] of tepid water. Then
dough rise until doubled in bulk, one hour or more. incorporate the flour gradually into the yeast mixture, and
Punch down the dough, cut it into 12 equal pieces, and beat until the dough comes away easily from the sides of the
cover them with plastic wrap. Roll each piece to form a long bowl. Knead the dough on a floured board and let it rise for
rope about 16 to 18 inches [40 to 45 em.] long, with tapered 30 minutes, or until doubled in bulk.
ends. Form each into a pretzel shape and lay it on a lightly Knead the dough again for about 10 minutes and divide
floured board. Let the pretzels rise until not quite doubled, it into 15 pieces. Roll each piece until it forms a cylinder that
about 30 minutes. is the thickness of a pencil and about 12 inches [30 em.] long;
In a 9-inch [23-cm.] enameled or stainless-steel skillet, taper the cylinder at both ends. Flour the working surface
combine 1 quart [1liter] of water, the baking soda and the with additional flour if the dough sticks to it. Shape each
remaining sugar. Bring to a simmer. Slide three pretzels at a cylinder of dough into a pretzel ring by forming a loop and
time into this bath; keep it at a bare simmer and cook the folding the two ends over the loop. Cover the pretzels with
pretzels for 20 seconds on each side, flipping them gently cloth towels and let them rise for 10 minutes. Preheat the
with a skimmer. Then remove the pretzels with the skim- oven to 450° F. [230° C.].
mer, draining them onto a large parchment-covered baking Fill a saucepan with 3 quarts [3 liters] of water, add 2
sheet with their original topsides up. Sprinkle the pretzels tablespoons of salt, and bring to a boil. Using a slotted spoon,
sparingly with the coarse salt. lower each pretzel into the boiling water and remove it with
Bake the pretzels in the center of a preheated 425° F. the spoon as soon as it rises to the surface-this will happen
[220° C.] oven for 15 minutes, or until nicely browned. Cool almost immediately. Drain the pretzels on cloth towels.
the pretzels to lukewarm and eat them fresh, or wrap and With a sharp knife, make a notch in the thickest part of
freeze them after they have cooled completely. each pretzel and sprinkle the notch with coarse salt. Trans-
HELEN WITTY AND ELIZABETH SCHNEIDER COLCHIE fer the pretzels to floured baking sheets. Just before putting
BETTER THAN STORE-BOUGHT them in the oven, sprinkle tepid water on the oven floor and
shut the door quickly to create steam. Reduce the oven tem-
perature to 400° F. [200° C.] and bake the pretzels for 30
minutes, or until well browned. Serve cold.
EVA AND ULRICH KLEVER
Salted Pretzels SELBER BROT BACKEN

Salzbrezeln
The technique of shaping pretzels appears on pages 30-31;
boiling dough before baking it is shown on pages 58-59.
To make IS large pretzels
4 cups flour 1 liter
package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. lY2 g.
[18 g .] cake fresh yeast
about tepid water about
%cup 175 mi.
sugar
salt
1 % tbsp. butter 22 mi.
~cup milk 150 mi.
coarse salt

Mix the yeast and a pinch of sugar with 2 tablespoons [30

ml.] of tepid water and leave until foaming, about 10 min-

99
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS

Monkey Bread

~nriched ~ast GJ3reads

To make one 9-inch [23-cm.] ring
about flour, sifted about
Recipes for simple egg-bread dough and rich egg-bread dough 4 cups 1 liter
appear in Standard Preparations, pages 164-165.
y4 oz. package active dry yeast or l Y2 g.
3/s oz. [18 g.) cake fresh yeast

2 tbsp. tepid water 30 mi.

Y4 cup sugar 50 mi.
Egg Bread Susanne
Dame Susanne 1 tsp. salt Sml.
12 tbsp. butter 180ml.
A lthough this dough is similar to brioche dough, it is shaped
into a cylinder and baked on a baking sheet. This recipe first 1 cup milk, scalded %liter
appeared in 1651 in a book called Le Cuisinier Fran<;ois,
written by Fran~ois-Pierre de la Varenne, head cook to the Add the yeast to the water and stir until well mixed. Com-
Marquis d'Uxelles. Unfortunately, there is no record of the bine the sugar and salt in a mixing bowl. Add 8 tablespoons
identity of the lady after whom the bread was named. [120 ml. ) of the butter to the milk, stirring until the butter is
melted, then pour the liquid onto the sugar and salt. Let the
To make one 16-inch [40-cm.] cylindrical/oaf
liquid cool until it is tepid, then add t he yeast mixture. Add
4~ cups flour 1Y4 liters the flour to the liquid gradually, beating it in thorough ly.
two packages active dry yeast, or two two Knead wit h your hands for 10 minutes or so.
y4 oz. 3/s oz. lY2 g. Place the dough in a buttered bowl, t urning th e dough in
[ 18 g. ] cakes fresh yeast, crumbled
the bowl until it is coated with butter. Cover and let it rise in
6 tbsp. tepid milk 90 mi. a warm place until doubled in bulk, about one hour.
6 egg yolks, beaten 6 Punch it down and roll out the dough on a lightly floured
board to a thickness of about 1,4 inch [6 mm.). Cut t he dough
3 eggs, 1 beaten separately 3 into diamond-sh aped pieces about 2~ inches [6 em .) across.
2 tsp. salt 10 mi. Melt the remaining butter, dip each piece in it and layer a
buttered 9-inch [23-cm.) ring mold with the diamonds to half
21 tbsp. butter, softened 315 mi. the depth of the mold. Let the dough rise again until doubled
Pour 1 cup [ 1~ liter) of th e flour onto a work surface and in bulk, about 45 minutes. Bake in a preheated 400° F. [200°
C.) oven for about 30 minutes, or until golden brown.
make a well in the center. Place the yeast and h alf of the
FLORENCE KERR HIRSCHFELD
milk in the well. Using your finger tips, quickly mix t he COOKING WITH LOVE
yeast and milk together; then gra dually work in the flour.
Add a little more milk, if necessary, to soften the mixture.
Put this yeast sponge into a bowl and let it rise for one hour
in a warm place.
Place t he rest of the flour on the work surface. Make a Yeast Bread
well in the center and fill it with the egg yolks and two of the H efebrot
eggs. Add the salt and m ix well. Heat the rest of the milk
with the butter until t he butter has melted. Gra dually incor- To make one 8- to 9-inch [20- to 23-cm. ] ova/loaf
porate t he milk and butter into the flour and eggs, mixing 4 cups fl our 1 liter
well. Knead the dough until it is smooth and soft. Then work
t he yeast sponge into the egg dough, a nd knead them togeth-
3/s oz. cake fresh yeast 18 g .
er thoroughly for 10 minutes. Shape the dough into a high 1 cup tepid milk Y4 liter
loaf about 16 inches [40 em.) long and place the loaf on a 75 mi.
buttered baking sh eet. Let the loaf rise in a warm place for Y3 cup sugar
about one and a ha lf hours, or until it has doubled in bulk. 1 egg
Glaze t he top of th e loaf with the rema ining egg. Using a 8 tbsp. b utter, softened 120ml.
sharp knife or a razor blade, mak e several deep cuts in the
top of the loaf; t he incisions should be fairly long and curve 1 egg yolk, beaten
around to t he sides. Bake the loaf in a preheated 350° F.
[180° C.] oven for about one hour, or until it sounds hollow Mix the yeast with the milk and 1 teaspoon [5 ml.) of the
when rapped on th e bottom. sugar, and leave the mixture in a warm place for 10 minutes
CELINE VENCE AND ROBERT J. COURTINE to froth. Sift abou t three quarters of the flour into a bowl and
THE GRAND MASTERS OF FRENCH CUISINE a dd the yeast mixture, egg and softened butter. Blend them

100
together, then knead them for about 10 minutes, or until the
dough forms a smooth ball that does not stick to your fingers. Coolrise Brioches
If the dough remains too sticky, sprinkle it with some of the Refrigerate the dough overnight and bake for breakfast;
remaining flour. Place the ball of dough in a bowl of tepid serve hot as the French do.
water and leave it until it floats on the surface, about 30 To make 30 rolls
minutes. Remove the dough from the water and knead it
again for about 10 minutes, adding the remaining sugar and 6 to flour 1Y2 to
enough of the remaining flour to produce once more a 7 cups 1% liters
smooth, elastic dough that does not stick to your fingers. two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast two 7% g.
Butter and flour a baking sheet. Form the dough into an
oval loaf about 8 to 9 inches [20 to 23 em.) long; brush the Y2 cup sugar 125 mi.
top with the beaten egg yolk. Bake the loaf in a preheated 1 Y2 tsp. salt 7 mi.
350° F. [180° C.) oven for about 45 minutes. The loaf will be
done when a skewer stuck into it comes out clean. 8 tbsp. butter, softened 120 mi.
DOROTHEE V. HELLERMAN 1Y3 cups hot water ( 120° to 130° F. 325 mi.
DAS KOCHBUCH AUS HAMBURG [49° to 54° C.])
4 eggs, at room temperature 4
egg yolk, mixed with 1 tbsp. [15 mi.) milk
Riom Brioche
Combine 2 cups [% liter] of the flour, the yeast, sugar and
Gateau ou Brioche de Riom salt in a large bowl. Stir well to blend. Add the softened
This brioche is typical of Riom-les-Montagnes in the Au- butter. Add the hot water to the ingredients in the bowl all at
vergne district of southeastern France. The dough should be once. Beat with an electric mixer at medium speed for two
very soft, and is traditionally allowed to rise in a woven straw minutes. Scrape the bowl occasionally. Add the eggs and 1 V2
basket that gives the brioche a lattice pattern on the outside. cups [375 ml.) more of the flour. Beat with the electric mixer
at high speed for one minute, or until the dough is thick and
To make one 10-inch [25-cm.] brioche elastic. Scrape the bowl occasionally. With a wooden spoon,
gradually stir in enough of the remaining flour to make a
soft dough that leaves the sides of the bowl. Turn the dough
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast o r 3/s oz. lY2 g. onto a floured board; round it up into a ball.
[18 g.) cake fresh yeast
Knead for five to 10 minutes, or until the dough becomes
2 tbsp. tepid water 30 mi. smooth and elastic. Cover with plastic wrap, then a towel.
3 tbsp. sugar 45 mi. Let the dough rest for 20 minutes, then punch it down. Di-
vide the dough into two unequal portions-one using about
10 tbsp. butter, softened 150 mi. three fourths of the dough, the other about one fourth.
3 eggs 3 Cut the larger portion into 30 equal pieces. Shape into
smooth balls. P lace in buttered muffin-pan cups; flatten
salt slightly. Cut the smaller portion of dough into 30 equal
Y4 cup tepid milk 50 mi. pieces. Shape into smooth balls. Make a deep indentation in
the center of each large, slightly flattened ball. Press the
Dissolve the yeast in the water with 1 teaspoon [5 ml.) of the rough end of a small ball into each indentation. Cover the
sugar, and let the mixture stand in a warm place until foam- pans loosely with plastic wrap.
ing, about 15 minutes. Then stir in % cup [125 ml.) of the Refrigerate for two to 24 hours. When ready to bake,
flour. In a large bowl, sift the rest of the flour and mix it with remove the brioches from the refrigerator. Uncover the
the rest of the sugar, the butter, eggs and a pinch of salt. Beat pans. Let the brioches stand for 10 minutes while preheating
in the yeast and flour mixtures, and knead this firm dough the oven to 350° F. [180° C.). Bake on the lower shelf of the
thoroughly for about 10 minutes, or until smooth. Cover the oven for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and brush the
dough and leave it in a warm place for three to four hours, or tops of the brioches with the egg-yolk-and-milk mixture.
until doubled in bulk. Return to the oven immediately and bake for five to 10 min-
Soften the dough by kneading in the milk. Place it in a utes longer, or until done. Remove the brioches from the
large, buttered brioche mold, ensuring that the dough does pans immediately. Cool them on racks.
not fill more than one third of the mold. Let the brioche rise NELL B. NICHOLS (EDITOR)
in a warm place for about one hour. Bake it in a preheated HOMEMADE BREAD
375° F. [190° C.) oven for 40 minutes, or until the brioche is
golden and well risen. Cool it on a wire rack.
NICOLE VIELFAURE AND A. CHRISTINE BEAUVIALA
FI!:TES, COUTUMES ET GATEAUX

101
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS

Sally Lunn French Sally Lunn Cake

Sally Lunn, who was born and lived in Bath in southwest Solilemme
England in the 18th Century, is reputed to have made the
teacakes which took her name from her own private recipe. The rich egg bread known variously as solilemme, solimene
She sent them hot (maybe carried them herself) to all the and solimeme is said to have originated in Alsace in eastern
important tea parties in Bath. A special round Sally Lunn France. The meaning of the name is obscure. However, the
pan, 2 Vz inches [6 em.] deep, is still used for these hot delica- dough and serving method are so similar to the English S ally
cies. When baked, the cake is cut into horizontal slices and Lunn cake that the breads may have a common origin. There
the slices are toasted and buttered; then the slices are put was a pastry cook named Sally Lunn in B ath, England, in the
together again and the Sally Lunn is served hot in its origi- 18th Century, who may have adopted the French solilemme
nal form. Sometimes in the past the cakes appear to have and altered its name simply because it resembled her own.
been spread with hot scalded cream in place of butter.
To make one 8-inch [20-cm.] brioche
To make one 6-inch [15-cm.] coke
2% cups flour 675 mi.
1Y2 cups flour, sifted 375 mi.
y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7Y2 g.
3/s oz. coke fresh yeast, or % oz. 18 g. oz. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast
3/s
[7Y2 g.] package active dry yeast
mixed with 3 tbsp. [45 mi.] tepid water 6 tbsp. tepid water 90 mi.
salt 1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
1 tbsp. superfine sugar 15 mi. 2 tbsp. superfine sugar 30 mi.
2 egg yolks, beaten 2 4 egg yol ks 4
5 tbsp. butter, softened 75 mi. 20 tbsp. butter, softened 300 mi.
about tepid light cream about 6 tbsp. heavy crea m 90 mi.
Y2 cup 125 mi. 1 egg , beaten 1
about tepid milk about
1 tbsp. 15 mi. Pour % cup [175 ml.] of the flour into a bowl and make a well
in the center. Combine the yeast with 3 tablespoons [45 ml.]
Put about a quarter of the flour into a bowl and set the rest oftepid water, let it stand for 10 minutes, and mix it into the
aside in another bowl in a warm place. Mix 1,4 cup [50 ml.] of flour. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons of tepid water and
the cream with the yeast, and leave in a warm place for 10 beat the mixture into a smooth, soft dough. Cover the bowl
minutes, until the yeast begins to foam. Work the yeast mix- with a cloth and let this sponge rise in a warm place until
ture into the small amount of flour until a light dough is doubled in bulk, about one hour.
formed. Put this into a warm place and let it rise to twice Sift the rest of the flour into a large bowl, together with
its original bulk. the salt and sugar, and make a well in the center. Mix in the
To the larger quantity of flour, add a pinch of salt, the egg yolks, 10 tablespoons [150 ml.] of the butter, and the
sugar, egg yolks, butter and the remaining cream. Work the cream. Knead the mixture for about 10 minutes, until it is
ingredients together for four or five minutes, making a light smooth and elastic and no longer sticks to t he sides of the
mixture. Then add the risen yeast mixture and work togeth- bowl. Then knead in the yeast sponge.
er for five or six minutes. Butter an 8-inch [20-cm.] brioche mold or charlotte mold
Butter and flour a 6-inch [15-cm.] Sally Lunn or cake pan and put the dough into it- it should only half-fill the mold.
about 2Vz to 3 inches [6 to 8 em.] deep. Half-fill the pan with Cover the mold with a cloth and leave it in a warm place
the dough and stand it on a baking sheet in a warm place until the dough has almost reached the rim of the mold-
until the contents rise to the top of the pan. Then brush the about an hour.
top of the cake with the tepid milk and bake in a preheated Using a pastry brush, glaze the top of the dough with the
450° F. [230° C.] oven for 15 minutes, or until golden brown. beaten egg. Bake the bread in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.]
When cooked, turn the cake out of the pan and let it cool oven for one hour, until it is golden brown and a toothpick
on a rack if not wanted at once. inserted into the center comes out clean. Remove the bread
GERTRUDE MANN from the oven and unmold it; slice it immediately in t wo
A BOOK OF CAKES horizontally, turn the top half upside down, and season each
half with a pinch of salt. Melt the rest ofthe butter and pour
it over each cut half ofthe bread. Put the two halves together
again and serve t he bread hot.
CELINE VENCE AND ROBERT J. COURTINE
THE GRAND MASTERS OF FRENCH CUISINE

102
 Jewish Bagels
Bagels originated in Austria, where they were called beugeln,
meaning "rings." An alternative method ofshaping bagels is
shown on pages 58-59.
Bagels are best served sliced through the middle (toast-
ed, ifliked) and buttered. Good with cream cheese or smoked
fish, they also make an unusual breakfast roll.

Swiss Braided Loaf To make 24 bagels

Schweizer Ziipfe 3Y2 cups flour 875 mi.
A similar technique for braiding three strands of dough is y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 7Y2 g.
shown on page 22. [18 g.] coke fresh yeast
To make one 10-inch [25-cm. ] braided 1 cup mil k Y4 liter
loaf 4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
4 cups flour 1 liter 2 tbsp. superfine sugar 30 mi.
y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7Y2 g. 1 egg, the yolk separated from the 1
3/s oz. [18 g.] coke fresh yeast
white, and the yolk beaten with 1 tsp.
1 Y4 cups tepid milk 300 mi. [5 mi.] cold water

1 tsp. sugar 5 mi. Y2 tsp. salt 2ml.

5 tbsp. butter, softened 75 mi. poppy seeds, sesame seeds or coarse
salt crystals {optio nal)
2 eggs, beaten sepa rately 2
2 tbsp. kirsch 30 mi. Bring the milk to a boil, remove the pan from the heat and
1 tsp. salt 5 mi. add the butter and sugar. Stir until the butter has dissolved.
Pour the milk mixture into a large bowl and cool it until
Put the flour into a mixing bowl. Mix the yeast with half of tepid. Mix the yeast with the tepid milk mixture and leave
the tepid milk and leave it in a warm place for about 10 the mixture for about 10 minutes, or until it is frothy.
minutes. Make a well in the flour and pour in the yeast Beat the egg white and the salt into the yeast solution,
mixture and the sugar. Stir about 6 tablespoons [90 ml.] of then gradually work in the flour. Mix to form a smooth, soft
flour from the edges of the well into the yeast mixture to dough. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and
make a yeast sponge. Cover the bowl with a cloth and leave knead it until it is smooth and no longer sticky, about 15
the yeast sponge for 30 minutes, or until the sponge is foam- minutes. Form the dough into a ball and place it in an oiled
ing. Work in the rest of the flour, the remaining milk, the or buttered plastic bag; leave it in a warm place for about one
butter, one of the beaten eggs, the kirsch and salt, and knead hour, or until it has doubled in bulk.
the ingredients well until the dough is smooth and elastic. Divide the dough into 24 pieces, and roll each piece into a
Divide the dough into four pieces and, on a floured board, strip about the length of a pencil and the width of your fin-
roll each piece into a strand as thick as your thumb. Place ger, tapering the strips slightly at both ends. Shape the
the strands parallel to each other, pinch them together at strips into rings, pinching the ends together firmly. Leave
one end and braid the strands, pinching them together at the the rings on the floured surface until they begin to rise,
other end when finished. Place the four-strand braid on a about 10 minutes.
buttered baking sheet and cover it with a tea towel. Bring a large pan of water to a boil, place the bagels a few
Fill a large saucepan or casserole three quarters full with at a time in the boiling water and cook for about 15 seconds,
hot water. Lay the baking sheet on top of the saucepan. This until they puff up. (Overcooking will make the bagels break
procedure enables the loaf to rise quickly in a damp atmo- up and lose their shape, so remove them quickly and careful-
sphere. Let the loaf rise for 20 to 30 minutes, or until a dent ly with a slotted spoon.)
remains when the dough is poked with a finger. Place the bagels on a buttered baking sheet. Use the
Remove the baking sheet from the top of the saucepan, diluted egg yolk to brush over the bagels before baking. If
brush the top of the loaf with the remaining egg, and bake it you like, the bagels may be sprinkled with poppy seeds, sesa-
in a preheated 425° F . [220° C.] oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or me seeds or a very few coarse salt crystals. Bake the bagels
until the loaf is golden brown and sounds hollow when in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for about 20 minutes,
rapped on the base. until brown and crisp. Cool them on a wire rack.
MARGRET UHLE AND ANNE BRAKEMEIER LORNA WALKER AND JOYCE HUGHES
EIGENBROTLERS BROTBACKBUCH THE COMPLETE BREAD BOOK

103
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS

Milk Rolls mixture into the paste. Mix all of the ingredients well to-
gether, knead for about 10 minutes, then cover the dough
Petits Pains au Lait with a cloth and leave it in a warm place (about 80° to 85° F.
To make about 40 rolls [25° to 30° C.]) for about 30 minutes, or until doubled in bulk.
Then form the dough into small round balls and bake them
10 cups flour 2Y2 liters on buttered baking sheets in a preheated 425° F . [220° C.]
two% oz. packages active dry yeast or two two 7Y2 g. oven for 20 minutes, or until the rolls are golden brown.
3/s oz. [18 g.] cokes fresh yeast MRS. DALGAIRNS
THE PRACTISE OF COOKERY
2 cups milk, V3 cup [75 mi.] heated until tepid Y2 liter
2 tsp. salt 10ml.
Y2 cup sugar 125 mi.
2 eggs, lightly beaten 2
16 tbsp. butter ( Y2 lb. [% kg.]), softened 240 mi.

Stir the yeast into the tepid milk. Set the mixture aside for
about 10 minutes. Sift the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a
well in the center and pour in the yeast mixture, sugar, eggs
and cold milk. Mix to a smooth dough, then lay the dough on
a floured board and knead the dough until it is smooth and Butter Horns
elastic, about 10 minutes. Incorporate the butter evenly, and
return the dough to the bowl. Cover and let the dough rise This same dough also may be used for coffeecake, Swedish
until it has more than tripled in volume-about three hours rings, and the like.
at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator. To make 48 rolls
Punch down the dough and let it rise again until it has
doubled in volume, about one and one half to two hours. 4 to bread flour 1 to
Then divide the dough into about 40 small pieces. Shape 5 cups 1 Y4 liters
them into ovals or balls and lay them on floured baking two% oz. packages active dry yeast or two 7% g.
sheets for the final rising, about 20 to 30 minutes. two 3/s oz. [18 g.] cokes fresh yeast
Bake the rolls in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for
30 minutes, or until the rolls are golden brown. Y2 cup tepid water 125 mi.
RAYMOND CALVEL 16 tbsp. butter (Y2 lb. [Y4 kg. ]), melted 240 mi.
LA BOULANGERIE MODERNE
2 eggs, beaten 2
1 cup tepid milk % liter
%cup sugar 50 mi.
Cold Harbour Balls
1 Y2 tsp. salt 7 ml.
More than 50 places in the British Isles are called Cold Har-
bour. This one is probably in Scotland because the author, Mix the yeast with the tepid water and let stand for 10 min-
who published her cookbook in 1829, lived in Edinburgh. utes. Then add half of the melted butter, the eggs, milk,
To make about 60 rolls sugar and salt. Beat the ingredients together thoroughly ,
and gradually add enough flour to clean the sides of the bowl
16 cups flour (4 lb. [2 kg.]) 4 liters and to make a fairly stiff dough. Let the dough rise, covered,
two 3/s oz. cokes fresh yeast two 18 g. in a buttered bowl in a warm place for about one hour, or
until doubled in bulk.
2 tbsp. butter 30ml. Punch down the dough, then divide the dough into four
5 cups milk 1% liters portions. One at a time, roll each portion into a 12-inch [30-
cm.] round 1,4 inch [6 mm.] thick. Spread the round with
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
melted butter, and cut it like a pie into 12 wedge-shaped
1 egg, beaten 1 pieces. Starting at the wide bottom edge, roll each piece to
the point. Place the horns on buttered baking sheets and let
Heat the butter in the milk until the butter melts, and let the them rise to double their bulk again, which should take
mixture cool to tepid. Then gradually stir it into the flour to about 30 minutes. Bake for about 20 minu tes in a preheated
form a stiff paste. Add the salt. 375° F. [190° C.] oven.
Mix the yeast with the beaten egg and leave the mixture JANET E . C. WURTZBURGER (EDITOR)
until foaming, about 10 minutes. Stir the yeast-and-egg PRIVATE COLLECTIONS: A CULINARY TREASURE

104
 Brentford Rolls Stir the eggs into the yeast-and-milk mixture and beat this
mixture into the batter. If the batter is too stiff-that is, it is
Richard Dolby, who published his book of recipes in 1830, not of a smooth , pouring consistency- add a little more
was cook at the Thatched House Tavern, St. James's Street, milk. Cover the bowl with a cloth and leave it in a warm
London. Brentford, now a suburb of Greater London, was place for one hour, or until doubled in bulk.
then a village by the Thames, about 20 miles west of the city. Heat a buttered griddle over low heat. For each crumpet,
To make 12 large rolls pour on a ladleful of t he batter and cook it slowly for about 10
minutes on each side, or until brown. Serve the crumpets
8 cups flour 2 liters hot and buttered.
two packages active dry yeast or two two OSCAR TSCffiRKY
3 THE COOKBOOK BY 'OSCAR' OF THE WALDORF
%oz. /s oz. [ 18 g.] cakes fresh yeast lY2 g.
2Y2 cups tepid milk 625 mi.
Y4 cup superfine sugar 50 mi.
2 tsp. salt 10ml. English MuHins
8 tbsp. butter, softened and cut into sma ll 120 mi. To make 12 muffins
pieces
4 cups flour 1 liter
2 eggs, beaten 2 3/s oz. cake fresh yeast 18 g.
Mix the yeast with V2 cup [125 ml.] of the tepid milk and 1 egg
teaspoon [5 ml.] of the sugar. Sift the flour, salt and the rest
1% cups milk 300 mi.
of the sugar into a bowl and work in the butter with your
finger tips. Add the eggs, the yeast mixture, and the rest of 2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
the milk. Mix the dough, and knead it well for about 10 %cup tepid water 50 mi.
minutes. Set the dough aside in a warm place to rise until
doubled in bulk, about one hour. Divide the dough into 12 1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
pieces, roll them into balls and place them on buttered bak-
ing sheets. Return the rolls to a warm place to rise, covered Break the egg into a bowl. Warm the milk and butter togeth-
with a cloth, for about 30 minutes. When they are doubled in er to tepid and then beat them with the egg. Cream the yeast
bulk, bake them in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for with the water.
about 30 minutes, or until they are golden brown. Put the flour and salt into a warm bowl and make a well
RICHARD DOLBY in the center. Pour in the yeast, then the egg, butter and
THE COOK'S DICTIONARY AND HOUSE-KEEPER'S DIRECTORY milk liquid. Knead thoroughly, adding more flour or more
water if necessary. The dough should be soft but not sticky.
Cover the bowl with a damp cloth and leave it in a warm
place for about one and a half hours, or until the dough has
doubled in size.
Flannel Crumpets Roll out the dough 'lz inch [1 em.] thick on a floured
Traditionally, crumpets are baked on a griddle, but a large, board. Cut out the muffins with a large scone or biscuit cut-
heavy cast-iron frying pan can be substituted. Butter the grid- ter- about 2¥2 inches [6 em.] across. Knead the trimmings
dle or pan well, and test the temperature by dropping onto the together, and roll and cut them out in the same way.
hot surface a little batter; it should sizzle immediately. .Immediately after you have finished this, start cooking
the muffins on a lightly greased griddle over medium heat,
To make eight to ten 4-inch [10-cm.] crumpets turning the muffins over when they are floury and slightly
4 cups flou r 1 liter brown on the base. They should not cook too fast, so the
center of the griddle may have to be avoided, and they should
%oz. package active dry yeast, or lY2 g. keep a floury look. Alternatively, cook them for 15 minutes
3/soz. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast mixed in a preheated 450° F. [230° C.] oven, turning them over
with % cup [50 mi.] tepid milk after six or seven minutes. The muffins will rise and swell to
1 tsp. salt 5ml. look rather like puflballs.
Toast the muffins by the fire, then pull them apart and
1% cups tepid milk 300ml. put a big knob of butter in the middle; muffins are never cut,
2 eggs, well beaten 2 always pulled apart. Keep them warm in a muffin dish as
you toast the rest, turning them over after a few minutes so
Sift the flour into a bowl with the salt and leave it in a warm that the butter soaks into both halves.
place for 15 minutes. (Warmed flour reacts quicker with JANE GRIGSON
yeast.) Mix the milk with the flour to make a smooth batter. ENGLISH FOOD

105
ENRICHED YEAST BREADS/FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

Old Maids dough for 10 minutes and then let rise in a warm place for
one hour, or until doubled in bulk.
To make about twenty-five 3-inch Knead the mixture thoroughly, then break off pieces of
[8-cm.] cakes dough and shape them into cakes about % inch [2 em.] thick
5% cups flour 1% liters and 6 inches [15 em.] square. Put the cakes on a baking
sheet, and leave in a warm place for one hour, or until slight-
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7Y2 g. ly less than doubled in bulk. Bake in a preheated 350° F.
3/s
oz. [ 18 g.] coke fresh yeast [180° C.] oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until browned on top.
%cup tepid water 125 mi. DUNCAN MACDONALD
THE NEW LONDON FAMILY COOK
1 tsp. sugar 5ml.
1 cup tepid milk % liter
2 tbsp. butter, softened 30 mi.
Rusks
1 tsp. salt 5ml.
Zwieback
3 eggs, beaten 3
Rusks made without salt, as in this recipe, and stored in an
about cornmeal about airtight container will keep for months. Salt should not be
1% cups 375 mi. added to the dough because it absorbs moisture from the at-
mosphere, making the rusks soften more quickly.
Mix the yeast with the water and sugar and let the mixture
stand for five minutes, or until it is frothy. Add the milk, To make about 72 rusks
butter and salt. Stir in the beaten eggs and 4 cups [!liter] of 8 to flour 2 to
the flour to make a moist dough. Turn the dough onto a 9 cups 2% liters
floured board and knead in the remaining flour. Beat and
knead the dough until its surface glows and it becomes elas- two% oz. packages active dry yeast or two two 7Y2 g.
3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes
tic-about 20 minutes. Roll out the dough 112 inch [1 em.] fresh yeast
thick and cut it into round cakes with a coffee cup. Sprinkle 3 cups tepid milk %l iter
the cornmeal on the board and press both sides of each cake
into the meal to give an interesting gritty surface. Let the %cup sugar 125 mi.
cakes rise for one hour, then fry them on a lightly greased 3 egg yolks 3
griddle or heavy frying pan over medium-low heat until they
8 tbsp. butter, melted and coo led 120 mi.
are straw-colored and ringed with brown on both sides.
GRACE FIRTH
STILLROOM COOKERY
Cream the yeast with 112 cup [125 ml.] of the milk and 1
teaspoon [5 ml.] of the sugar. Leave it in a warm place until
foaming, about 15 minutes. Then add it to 2 cups [%liter] of
the flour. Mix thoroughly, gradually adding% cup [150 ml.]
of the remaining milk, to make a yeast sponge. Let it rise
Yorkshire Cakes in a warm place until it has doubled in bulk, about one and
These cakes must be buttered hot out of the oven, or cut in one half hours.
two when cold, toasted brown and buttered. Stir into the sponge the egg yolks, remaining sugar, but-
ter and the rest of the flour and milk. Blend the mixture into
To make ten to fifteen 6-inch a dough. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and
[1 5-cm. ] square cakes knead it thoroughly for about 15 minutes, or until it is
8 cups flour 2 liters smooth and elastic. Cover the dough with a damp cloth and
let it rise for 30 minutes in a warm place.
two% oz. packages active dry yeast or two two 7% g. Shape the dough into three 12-inch [30-cm.] cylindrical
3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast
loaves. Sprinkle the tops with a few drops of tepid water.
8 tbsp. butter 120 mi. Place the loaves on buttered baking sheets, let them rise for
about 45 minutes, then bake them in a preheated 400° F.
2Y2 cups milk 625 mi.
[200° C.] oven for 50 minutes, or until light brown.
2 eggs, beaten 2 The next day, cut the loaves into thin slices with a very
sharp knife. Place the slices on buttered baking sheets and
In a saucepan, warm the butter and milk together until bake them in a preheated 325° F . [170° C.] oven for 30 min-
the butter melts. Remove from the heat and let cool, until the utes, turning them after 15 minutes. When finished, they
milk is tepid. Then add the eggs and yeast and let the mix- should be dry and evenly browned.
ture stand for 10 minutes, or until the yeast begins to foam. ELEK MAGYAR
Stir the mixture into the flour. Mix well together; knead the KOCHBUCH FOR FEINSCHMECKER

106
 before it begins to come away cleanly from the work surface
and from your fingers. Knead it until it is elastic, though

~lavored ~ast ~reads stiff-about 15 minutes.

Place the dough in a buttered bowl, cover it with a towel
or plastic wrap and put it in a warm place to rise for about
one hour, or until the dough has doubled in bulk. Punch
down the dough, knead out the air bubbles for 30 seconds and
form the dough into one or two round, smooth balls. Place the
Pumpernickel Bread bread on one or two buttered baking sheets dusted with corn-
The technique of making pumpernickel bread is demonstrat- meal or flour. Cover the bread with wax paper and return it
to a warm, draft-free place for 30 minutes to double in bulk .
ed on pages 64-65. Brush the dough with the egg white and water, and bake it
To make one 12 -inch [30-cm. ] round loaf in a preheated 375° F . [190° C.] oven for 50 minutes, or until
or two 8 -inch [20-cm.] round loaves rapping on the bottom crust yields a hard, hollow sound.
125 mi. BERNARD CLAYTON JR.
Y2 cup cornmeal
THE COMPLETE BOOK OF BREADS
3 cups rye flour %liter
about whole-wheat flour about
1 cup Y4 liter
y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7Y2 g.
3/s
oz. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast
1 3/4 cups water 425 mi. Beer Bread
%cup molasses 175 mi. (J)llebr(/)d
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi. To make 1 large loaf or 3 small loaves
1 tbsp. salt 15 mi. 5 cups rye flour 1 Y4 liters
2 tsp. sugar 10 mi. about all-purpose flour about
5 cups 1 Y4 liters
1 Y2 tsp. caraway seeds, slightly crushed 7 mi.
two packages active dry yeast or two
lf2 oz. unsweetened baking chocolate, 15 g.
Y4 oz. two 3/s oz. [ 18 g.] cakes fresh yeast 7Y2 g.
broken into small pieces
medium-sized potatoes, boiled, peeled 2 2 cups tepid water Y2 liter
2
and mashed (about 1 cup [lf4 liter]) 1Y2 cups beer 375 mi.
oil %cup molasses, warmed to tepid 150 mi.
egg white, mixed with 1 tbsp. [15 mi.] 2 tsp. salt 10ml.
cold water
Mix all but lfz cup [125 ml.] of the tepid water with the beer
Combine 1lfz cups [375 ml.] of the water with the cornmeal in and molasses. Mix the yeast with the remaining water, then
a medium-sized saucepan and cook the mixture over low add this to the mixture. Add the rye and all-purpose flours
heat, stirring with a wooden spoon until it is thickened- and the salt. Mix well. Let the dough rise in a warm place
about five minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and add until doubled in bulk-about one and one half hours. Knead
the molasses, butter, salt, sugar, caraway seeds and choco- on a floured board, using additional all-purpose flour, if nec-
late. Stir until the mixture is well blended, pour it into a essary, to make a stiff dough-about 10 minutes.
large bowl and set it aside until it has cooled to tepid. To make one large loaf, place the dough in a floured cloth
Meanwhile, slightly warm the remaining 1,4 cup [50 ml.] in a large bowl and let it rise again until doubled in bulk.
of water, stir the yeast into it and let it stand for 10 minutes. For three loaves, divide the dough into three equal parts
Add the yeast and the mashed potatoes to the mixture in and let them rise separately. Turn the dough upside down
the bowl. Blend them well and stir in the rye flour and 1 cup into one buttered 11-by-7-by-2-ihch [28-by-18-by-5-cm.] pan
[ 1,4 liter] of the whole-wheat flour. The dough should be stiff or three buttered 7%-by-3o/s-by-2lh-inch [20-by-9-by-6-cm.]
and sticky. Turn the mixture out onto a work surface liberal- pans. Bake the single loaf in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.]
ly sprinkled with additional whole-wheat flour. Put a little oven for 10 minutes, then at 325° F. [170° C.] for 50 minutes.
oil on your hands before you start to knead, and keep the If you a re making three small loaves, bake them for 10 min-
surface of the dough powdered with whole-wheat flour. Have utes at 400° F. and at 325° F . for 35 to 40 minutes.
a scraper handy to remove the dough that accumulates on INGEBORG DAHL JENSEN
the work surface. The dough will require a lot of kneading WONDERFUL, WONDERFUL DANISH COOKING

107
 FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

Molasses Triticale Bread dough stand at room temperature for eight hours or over-
night. Mix 1h cup [125 ml.] of flour, the soda, sugar and salt,
To make two 9-by-5-inch [23-by- 13-cm.] loaves and add them to the dough. Turn the dough out onto a board
3 cups triticale flour %liter sprinkled with the remaining !:4 cup [50 ml.] of flour. Knead
the dough for three to five minutes until smooth, adding
3 cups whole-wheat flour %liter more flour if necessary. Roll the dough % inch [2 em.] thick.
Y2 cup whole-grain cornmeal 125 mi. Cut out twelve 3-inch [8-cm.] square or round muffins. Place
two% oz. packages a ctive dry yeast or two the muffins on wax paper that has been sprinkled with half
two 7 % g. of the cornmeal. Sprinkle the remaining cornmeal on top of
3/s oz. [18 g.]
cakes fresh yeast
the muffins. Cover, and let the muffins rise in a warm place
2 cups da rk beer Y2 liter for 45 minutes. On a lightly greased electric griddle preheat-
2 tbsp. butter ed to 275° F. [140° C.] , cook the muffins for about 10 minutes
30ml.
on each side, or until lightly browned.
3
/.. cup molasses 175 mi. THE JUNIOR LEAGUE OF LITTLE ROCK
1 tbsp. salt LITTLE ROCK COOKS
15 mi.
Y2 cup tepid water 125 mi.
Heat the beer in a medium-sized saucepan until just about
boiling; stir in the cornmeal, butter, molasses and salt. Stir Sourdough Bread
until the butter is melted, then pour the mixture into a large Pain au Levain
bowl and let it cool until tepid. In the cup used to measure the When using a new starter, I add half water, half beer as
molasses, mix the yeast with the tepid water. When the corn- liquid to increase sourness.
meal mixture has cooled, pour into it the yeast mixture,
which should have bubbled considerably, and stir in the To make one 10-inch [25-cm. ] round or
whole-wheat flour. Stir vigorously for five minutes to devel- 16-inch [40-cm . ] cylindrical/oaf
op the gluten in the flour; add the remaining flour, stirring about all-purpose flour about
and kneading until the dough is flexible and smooth. Then 6 Y2 cups 1 Y2 liters
set the bowl aside, covered, for about 20 minutes.
2 tbsp . rye flour 30 mi.
Divide the dough into two parts, shape into loaves, put
into two 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-cm.] loaf pans or on a baking 1 tbsp. buckwheat flour 15ml.
sheet, and place in a warm location to rise for one hour. Put 1 tbsp. bran 30 mi.
the loaves into a preheated 450° F. [230° C.] oven and imme-
diately reduce the temperature to 375° F. [190° C.]. Bake for package active dry yeast or 7% g .
3
/s oz. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast
50 to 55 minutes-or until the loaves, when unmolded brief-
ly and rapped on the bottom, sound hollow. Remove the 2 cups sourdough starter (recipe , page 167) Y2 liter
bread from the pans and let it cool slightly before slicing it.
MARLENE ANNE BUMGARNER
2 % cups tepid water 675 mi.
THE BOOK OF WHOLE GRAINS 2 tbsp. sesame seeds, toasted in a 350° F. 30 mi.
[180° C.] oven for 20 minutes, then
pounded in a mortar
Sourdough English Muffins 1 tbsp. unflavored powdered malt extract 15ml.
You may cook the muffins on a griddle set over medium heat. 2 tsp. salt 10 mi.
To make twelve 3-inch [8-cm. ] muffins To make the yeast sponge, empty the starter into a mixing
2 3/.. cups flour bowl. Stir in 1 cup ['f.lliter] of tepid water and 1 'f.l cups [300
675 mi.
ml.] of the all-purpose flour. Cover the sponge with a towel,
Y2 cup sourdough starter (recipe, page 167) 125 mi. place it in a warm spot and leave it for 24 to 36 hours. At the
Y2 tsp. baking soda 2ml. end of this time, stir down the yeast sponge and put half of it
back into the starter container for your next baking.
1 cup milk %liter To make the bread, mix the yeast with 1lh cups [375 ml.]
2 tbsp. sugar 30 mi. of tepid water. Stir this into the sponge and add the rye and
buckwheat flours, sesame seeds, bran, malt extract and salt.
% tsp. salt 4 mi. Add enough all-purpose flour to form a soft dough, then turn
2 to 3 tbsp. cornmeal 30to45 mi. it out onto a floured work surface and knead it. Sprinkle
more flour on the work surface as needed and work the
Combine the starter, milk and 2 cups [lh liter] of the flour in dough for 12 minutes, or until it feels firm and elastic. Add
a large pottery bowl. Mix, cover with a tea towel, and let the the minimum amount of flour required to reach this point.
108
 Place the dough in a lightly oiled bowl, cover it with a consistency of thick porridge. Butter a deep, 8-inch [20-cm.]
towel and let it rise until doubled in bulk. Remove it from the circular baking dish, and pour in the dough, spreading it
bowl, punch it down and shape the dough into a 10-inch [25- evenly. Bake the flatbread in a preheated 450° F. [230° C.]
cm.] round loaf or a 16-inch [40-cm.] cylindrical loaf. oven for 20 to 30 minutes. After it has cooked for 10 to 15
Let the loaf rise, towel-covered, in a warm place until it minutes, the bread may be brushed with beaten egg or but-
has reached almost full size. This rising can be slowed by ter. When it is finished, cut it in pieces and serve it warm.
placing the bread in a cooler spot, and it is often desirable to ULLA KAKONEN
do so because it allows the flavoring essences to develop NATURAL COOKING THE FINNISH WAY
more fully. It will take a good hour at the very least for the
bread to rise and expand enough, even in a warm place.
Bake the bread in a preheated 375° to 400° F. [190° to
200° C.] oven for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350° F. German Household Bread
[180° C.] for 20 minutes, and reduce the heat again to 325° F. Hausmannsbrot
[170° C.] until the bread is done, another 15 to 25 minutes,
depending on the shape of the loaf. (This lessening heat pro- Ifyou prefer to make two or three smaller loaves, bake them at
gression attempts to duplicate the falling heat in a wood- 375° F. [190° C.] for 45 or 50 minutes.
fired baker's oven.) Remove the bread from the oven. Test To make one 14-inch [35-cm. ] cylindricalloof
doneness by knocking on the bottom. If the sound is hollow, 300 mi.
1% cups rye flour
the bread is finished. Let it cool, propped at a tilt or on a rack
so the bottom crust does not become moist and soft. 4 to all-purpose flour 1 to
JUDITH OLNEY 5 cups 1 Y4 liters
COMFORTING FOOD
2 cups whole-wheat flour Y2 liter
two % oz. packages active dry yeast or two l Y2 g.
two 3/s oz. [18 g .] cokes fresh yeast
Buckwheat Flatbread rye sourdough starter (recipe, page 167) 50 mi.
Tattarleipii
1Y4 cups tepid water 300 mi.
To make one 8-inch [20-cm.] round flatbreod
1 tsp. sugar 5ml.
2 cups buckwheat flour Y2 liter
1Y3 cups buttermilk, at room temperature 325 mi.
1 cup gluten flour % liter
1 tbsp. salt 15 mi.
package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. lY2 g.
[ 18 g.] coke fresh yeast Blend the starter with% cup [200 ml.] of tepid water and the
medium -sized baking potatoes, scrubbed 2 rye flour. Cover; leave overnight at room temperature.
2
Sift 4 cups [1liter] of the all-purpose flour and all of the
3 cups water %liter whole-wheat flour into a bowl and make a well in the center.
2 tsp. sea salt 10ml. Mix the yeast with lh cup [125 ml.] of tepid water and pour it
into the well with the sugar. Stir together about 6 table-
Y2 cup buttermilk 125 mi. spoons [90 ml.] of flour from the edges and mix with the
egg, beaten, or 1 tbsp. [15 mi.] melted liquid to form a yeast sponge. Cover the bowl with a cloth
butter (optional) and let the yeast sponge rise for 20 to 30 minutes or until it
bubbles. Add the sourdough starter, all but 2 tablespoons [30
To make the starter, boil the potatoes in their skins in the ml.] of the buttermilk, and the salt. Mix the sponge into the
water with half a teaspoon [2 ml.] of the salt until they are rest of the flour with the other ingredients, and knead
soft. Drain them and reserve the cooking liquid. Peel and well-adding more all-purpose flour if the dough is sticky-
mash the potatoes while still warm, and stir in 2 cups [ ¥.! for about 10 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and elas-
liter] of the cooking liquid. Pour the potato mixture through tic. Cover the bowl with a cloth and let the dough rise in a
a strainer into a bowl. Let it cool. warm place for two hours or until doubled in bulk.
Mix the yeast with 3 tablespoons [45 ml.] of the potato Knead the dough again for 10 minutes, then form a cylin-
cooking liquid when it has cooled to tepid. Let the mixture drical loaf. Place the loaf on a buttered baking sheet and,
stand for 10 minutes, until the yeast begins to foam. Then with a sharp knife or razor blade, make a shallow, length-
stir the yeast into the potato mixture. Add 1 cup [14 liter] of wise gash. Cover and let rise in a warm place for two hours.
the buckwheat flour. Cover, and leave in a warm place over- Brush the loaf with the rest of the buttermilk and bake it
night. The dough should become bubbly. in the center of a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven for 50 to 60
The next day, add the buttermilk and the rest of the minutes, or until the bottom sounds hollow when rapped.
buckwheat flour to the potato starter. Stir in the gluten flour MARGRET UHLE AND ANNE BRAKEMEIER
and the rest of the salt. Mix well until the dough has the EIGENBROTLERS BROTBACKBUCH

109
FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

Sourdough French Bread Work the salt, sugar and about 3 cups[% liter] of flour
into the sponge. Turn the dough out onto a floured board and
The author ofthis recipe is a food technologist at the Universi- knead it until it is smooth and elastic- 10 to 15 minutes.
ty of California, Davis, and has done extensive research on Add flour as needed to prevent the dough from sticking.
sourdough starter cultures. Place the dough in a greased bow1 and turn the dough over
To make two 12-inch [30-cm. ] cylindrical once to grease the top and sides. Cover the bowl and let the
or 8 -inch [20-cm.] round loaves dough rise in a warm place until it has doubled in bulk- one
and one half to two hours.
about flour about Punch down the dough and divide it in half; shape each
7 cups 1% liters half into a loaf. Place the loaves on a pastry board sprinkled
%oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 7Y2 g. yvith cornmeal. Cover the loaves with plastic wrap or a clean
[18 g.] cake fresh yeast cloth and let them rise for one and one half to two hours.
Using a sharp knife or razor blade, make diagonal slashes
2 cups tepid water Y2 liter for long loaves or crisscross slashes for round loaves.
2 tsp . salt 10ml. Bring the dissolved cornstarch mixture to a boil. Cool it
2 tsp. sugar slightly and brush it over the top and sides of the loaves.
10ml.
Place the oven shelves on the two lowest levels in the oven.
1 tsp. cornstarch, dissolved in Y2 cup 5 mi. Put a pan with ~ inch [6 mm.] of water in it on the bottom
[125 mi.] co ld water shelf. Preh eat the oven to 400° F. [200° C.].
Slide the bread onto baking sheets and place them in the
v"o gurt sourdough starter heated oven. After baking for 10 minutes, brush the bread
2 tbsp. plain yogurt 30 mi. again with the cornstarch-and-water solution. Continue to
bake for 20 to 25 minutes more, or until the loaves are golden
1 cup milk brown. Cool on a wire rack.
1 cup flour Y4 liter GEORGE K. YORK

Prepare the starter three to six days in advance.

First heat the milk to tepid-90° to 100° F. [32° to 38°
C.]-and put it in a clean, warm pint or quart jar. Add the
yogurt. (Nonfat milk and low-fat yogurt give the tangiest
flavor.) Cover the jar tightly and let the starter stand in a Sourdough Onion Bread
warm-80° to 100° F . 125° to 38° C.]-place for 18 to 24 Sauerteig-Zwiebelbrot
hours. If a clear liquid rises to the top of the milk during this
time, stir it back into the mixture. However, if the liquid To make two 14-inch [35-cm.] cylindrical loaves
develops a light pink color, the milk is breaking down; dis- 7 cups rye flo ur 1% liters
card the culture and start again.
1 Y4 cups rolled oats 300 mi.
When the starter is the consistency of yogurt-a curd
that does not flow easily when the container is tilted- 1 cup rye sourdough starter (recipe, page 167) % liter
gradually stir in the flour until it is smoothly blended. Cover 1 to tepid water 250to
the container tightly and let it stand in a warm place until 1 Y2 cups 375 mi.
the mixture is full of bubbles and has a good, sour smell-
from two to five days. The starter is now ready to use; there 5 onions, finely chopped 5
will be about 1% cups [425 ml.]. If you prefer, the starter can Y2 cup finely cut fresh chives 125 mi.
be refrigerated safely for up to two weeks.
Each time you use 1 cup[~ liter] of starter, replenish the 2 tbsp. olive oil 30ml.
remainder with 1 cup of tepid milk. Let the starter stand in a 3 Y2 tsp. salt 17 mi.
warm place overnight or until it is bubbly. Then refrigerate
it. Before using it again, allow the starter to "warm to room 1 tsp. freshly ground white pepper 5ml.
temperature. Then add 1 cup of flour to the starter and let 2 tbsp . whole-wheat flour 30 mi.
the mixture stand for several hours at room temperature
before making the bread. If you do not use the starter regu- The night before, stir together the rye sourdough starter, %
larly, discard half of it every two weeks and replenish it. cup [17 5 ml.] of tepid water and 1% cups [425 ml.] of the rye
To make the bread, combine 2 cups [lh liter] of tepid flour until the mixture is smooth. Cover it with a cloth and
water with 1 cup of starter, the yeast and 4 cups [1liter] of leave overnight in a warm place.
flour. Place this sponge in a bowl and cover the bowl with Put ~ cup [50 ml.] of the onions in a heatproof dish and
plastic wrap or a clean dish towel, and allow it to stand in a toast them under the broiler until they are brown. Mix the
warm place for six to eight hours or overnight. The sponge remaining onions with the chives and fry them gently in the
will be very thick and full of bubbles. olive oil until they are transparent-about 10 minutes. Sea-
110
son with~ teaspoon [2 ml.] of the salt and the pepper, and let for four hours in a warm, but not too warm, place-the
the mixture cool. dough must rise slowly-until it doubles in bulk.
To the starter mixture a dd the remaining rye flour, the Divide the dough into six pieces and shape them into
rolled oats, the onion-and-chive mixture and the rest of the ovals. Butter six 8~-by-4~-inch [21-by-11-cm.] loaf pans
salt. Mix them, adding just enough tepid water to make a and half-fill them with the dough; let the loaves rise in a
firm dough. Knead the dough for 15 minutes, or until smooth warm place for 20 to 30 minutes so that they rise to the tops
and fairly elastic. Cover the dough and let it rest in a warm of the pans, then brush the tops with tepid water.
place for two hours, or until it doubles in bulk. Bake the loaves for one hour in a preheated 400° F. [200°
Knead the dough again for 10 minutes, then divide it in C.] oven, or until they are well browned. Brush them with
half and shape it into two long, thin loaves. With a sharp tepid water again, while they are still hot, to give them a soft
knife or a razor blade, cut a few shallow, diagonal slashes in crust. Let them cool.
the tops of the loaves. Place the loaves on a greased and HERMINE KIEHNLE AND MARIA HADECKE
lightly floured baking sheet, cover them with a towel and let DAS GROSSE KIEHNLE-KOCHBUCH
them rise in a warm place for two hours.
With your fingers, lightly press the toasted onions into
the tops of the loaves. Sprinkle the loaves with the whole-
wheat flour and bake in the center of a preheated 425° F.
[220° C.] oven for 35 to 45 minutes, or until the loaves sound
hollow when rapped on the bottom.
MARGRET UHLE AND ANNE BRAKEMEIER
Cheese Bread
EIGENBROTLERS BROTBACKBUCH To make two 8 %-by-4 Y2 -inch
[2 1-by- 11-cm. ] loaves
4 Y2 cups flour 1 liter
two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast or two lY2 g.
Black Rye Bread two 3/s oz. [18 g .] cakes fresh yeast
Schwarzbrot 1 cup milk, sca lded Y4 liter

This bread can also be made without a sourdough starter, in 3 tbsp. sugar 45 mi.
which case the yeast should be increased to three% oz. [18 g.] 1 tbsp. salt 15ml.
cakes or three !:4 oz. [7 ~ g. ]packages. 45 mi.
3 tbsp. butter, melted
To make six 8 Y2-by-4 %-inch [21-by-11-cm.] 1 mi.
loaves Y4 tsp. ground ginger (optional)
1 liter 1 cup tepid water Y4 liter
4 cups rye flour
5 liters 1 cup grated Cheddar cheese Y4 liter
20 cups whole-wheat flour (5 lb. [2 Y2 kg.])
y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7% g. To the scalded milk, add the sugar, salt, 2 tablespoons [30
oz. [ 18 g.] cake fresh yeast
3/s ml.] of the butter and, if you wish, the ground ginger. Cool to
rye sourdough starter (recipe, page 167) 50 mi. tepid. Meanwhile, put the water into a large mixing bowl,
Y4 cup add the yeast and let it stand for at least five minutes. Add
6 cups tepid water 1% liters the milk mixture, the cheese and the flour, then beat with an
1 tbsp. salt 15 mi. electric mixer for two minutes or with a large wooden spoon
for about 300 strokes. This is too soft a dough to be kneaded.
1 or 2 tbsp. caraway seeds (optional) 15 or 30 mi. Allow the dough to rise, covered, until it is more than
4 or 5 small potatoes, boiled, peeled and 4 or 5 doubled in bulk-45 to 60 minutes. Stir the dough down,
mashed (optio nal) then beat it for approximately half a minute. Put the dough
in two buttered, 8~-by-4~-inch [21-by-11-cm.] ovenproof-
Mix the yeast with ~ cup [125 ml.] of tepid water. Add 1 ~ glass loaf pans. Let the bread rise until it comes almost to the
cups [375 ml.] of the whole-wheat flour to make a sponge and tops of the pans, about 30 minutes. Bake in a preheated 350°
let it rise overnight. F. [180° C.] oven for about 30 to 40 minutes, until the bot-
The next day, mix the remaining whole-wheat flour and toms of the loaves sound hollow when rapped. If the tops
the rye flour together with the sponge, the sourdough start- brown too quickly, cover them with foil. Remove the loaves
er, 6V2 cups [1 lJ.l liters] of tepid water, the salt, and the cara- from the oven. Melt the remaining butter and use it to brush
way seeds and mashed potatoes if you are using them. Knead the tops of the loaves. Turn them out of the pans immediate-
the resulting stiff dough until it comes away from your ly. Let the loaves cool on a wire rack before cutting them.
hands easily and contains air bubbles-after about 10 min- ANNE ROE ROBBINS
utes. Then sprinkle the dough with flour, cover and leave it THE SEVEN-INGREDIENTS COOKBOOK

111
 FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

Pepper Cheese Loaf Italian Easter Bread with Cheese

To make two 7 %-by-3 %-inch [19-by-9-cm.] Crescia di Pasqua col Formaggio
rectangular or 6-inch [15-cm . ] cylindrical loaves To make four 9-by-5-inch
2Y2 to all-purpose or bread flour [23-by- 13-cm.] loaves
625to
3 cups 750 mi. lib. basic bread dough (recipe, page 164) Y2 kg .
y4 oz. package active dry yeast 7Y2 g. 8 cups flour 2 liters
2 tbsp. sugar 30 mi. two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast or two two 7 % g.
3/s oz. [18
l tsp. salt ;>mi. g.] cakes fres h yeast
2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 10 mi. l cup tepid water Y4 liter
l cup tepid water % liter 2 cups tepid milk Y2 liter
l tbsp. vegetable oil l5ml. 10 eggs 10
2 cups coarsely grated sharp Cheddar cheese %liter 3 Y4 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese 800 mi.
(about l 0 oz. [300 g.])
In a mixer bowl blend 1 cup [ 14 liter] of flour, the yeast, l cu p diced Gruyere cheese Y4 liter
sugar, salt and ground pepper. Add the water and oil. Beat 10 tbsp. butter, softened 150 mi.
with an electric mixer at low speed for 30 seconds, scraping
the bowl once or twice. Then, at high speed, beat for three 4 tbsp. la rd, softened 60 mi.
minutes. With a wooden spoon stir in additional flour, a half l tbsp. salt
cup [125 ml.] at a time, to form a soft dough that is elastic. 15 mi.
Turn out on a floured work surface and knead with a strong On the evening before making the bread, prepare a sour-
push-turn-fold action, adding more flour if necessary to con- dough leaven by mixing the bread dough with 1 cup [l/.iliter]
trol the stickiness. Alternatively, knead for about five min- of tepid water and 1 cup of tepid milk. Then sift the flour onto
utes with a dough hook. a work surface and make a well in the center. Pour the soft-
Place the ball of dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover ened bread dough into the well and gradually work the flour
the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and put it in a warm place into the dough, kneading for about 10 minutes, to make a
until the dough has doubled in bulk. Punch down the dough firm, elastic dough. Form the dough into a ball. With a sharp
and work it briefly under your hands to press out the bub- knife, make two cuts in the shape of a cross on the surface of
bles. Spread half of the cheese on the dough and fold it in. the ball of dough, to help the rising process. Cover and leave
Knead for one minute, sprinkle on the rest of the cheese and the dough in a warm place overnight.
continue kneading until the dough has absorbed it. The next day, stir the yeast into 1 cup of tepid milk, and
With a sharp knife, divide the dough in half. Shape the set aside for about 10 minutes. In a large bowl, beat the eggs
pieces into balls, and let them rise under a towel for three or and add the Parmesan and Gruyere cheeses, the butter, lard
four minutes. Press each ball of dough into a greased 1- and salt. Mix them all together thoroughly. Knead the yeast
pound coffee can. One ball should fill a coffee can about half- mixture into the sourdough, then work in the egg-and-
way, no more. If using loaf pans, form the dough by pressing cheese mixture, kneading until the mixture is soft and
each ball into a flat oval, roughly the length of a 7 '-h-by-3 '-h- smooth, about 10 minutes.
inch [19-by-9-cm.] loaf pan. Fold the oval in halflengthwis e, Butter four 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-cm.] loaf pans. Divide
pinch the seam tightly to seal, tuck under the ends, and place the dough into four portions, shape the portions into loaves
in the greased loaf pan, seam under. and put them into the pans. The dough should reach no high-
Place the containers in a warm place, cover with wax er than halfway up the sides of the pans. Let the loaves rise
paper and leave them until the centers of the dough have in a warm place for 30 minutes, or until the dough has risen
risen to the rims of the coffee cans or 1 inch [2'-h em.] above to about '-h inch [1 em.] above the rims of the pans. Bake the
the rims of the loaf pans. loaves in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 50 minutes,
Preheat the oven to 400° F. [200° C.]. Bake the loaves or until the loaves are golden brown and sound hollow when
until the crust is a deep brown and the loaves test done-30 they are rapped.
to 35 minutes. Turn out one loaf from its can or pan and tap
PIERO LUIGI MENICHETTI AND LUCIANA MENICHETTI PANFIL!
the bottom crust with a forefinger. A hard hollow sound VECCHIA CUCINA EUGUBINA
means the bread is baked.
Place the loaves on wire racks to cool. Serve either warm
from the oven or reheated later. This bread freezes especially
well and will keep for six months or longer.
BERNARD CLAYTON JR.
THE COMPLETE BOOK OF BREADS

112
 Cheese Brioche until it is foaming, about 10 minutes. Mix together the
cheese and remaining water. Sift the flour and salt into a
Brioche au Fromage warmed mixing bowl and add the onions. Stir in the cheese
If the brioche is to be eaten at midday, prepare the dough the and yeast mixtures and knead the dough thoroughly for
night before; if it is to be used for the evening meal, prepare about 10 minutes. Cover the bowl and let the dough rise in a
the dough at midday. warm place for about one and one half hours, or until the
dough has doubled in bulk.
To make o ne 8 -inch [20-cm. ] brioche Punch down the dough and knead it again for about five
Y2 lb. rich egg-bread dough (recipe , minutes, dusting it with additional flour if it sticks to your
page 165) fingers. Shape the dough into an oval12 inches [30 em.] long
and set it on a buttered baking sheet to rise for about 30
3Y2 oz. Gruyere cheese, 2 oz. [60 g.] finely 100 g. minutes, or until it has doubled in bulk again. With a very
shredded (about Y2 cup [125 mi.]), sharp knife, make three shallow diagonal slashes in the top
and the rest diced of the loaf. Brush the loaf with the oil, but do not brush the oil
salt and pepper into the gashes. Bake the loaf in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.]
oven for 45 minutes to one hour.
egg, beaten
JUTTAKORTZ
DAS BROT BACKBUCH
Prepare the dough in the usual way. Letitrise, then punch it
down, and mix in the shredded and diced Gruyere cheese and
a pinch each of salt and pepper. Let the dough rise again
until it is double in bulk, about one hour. Butter an 8-inch
[20-cm.] brioche or savarin mold, or a baking sheet. Put the
dough into the mold, or shape it into a ring if you are baking
it on a sheet. With a sharp knife or razor knife, make two A Picnic Loaf
or three shallow diagonal incisions-spacing them well The technique of making this bread appears on pages 70-71.
apart- in the dough.
To make one 14-inch [35-cm.] round loaf
Glaze the brioche with the beaten egg and bake it in a
preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 30 minutes, or until it is 21b. basic bread dough (recipe, page 164) 1 kg.
well risen and golden brown. 10 oz. Gruyere cheese, coarsely grated or 300 g.
PIERRE ANDROUET
LA CUISINE AU FROMAGE
sliced
4 eggs, in the shell 4
lib. Polish sausage (kielbasa), cut into Y2 kg.
4 pieces and pricked with a fork
Sheep's-Milk Cheese Bread egg yolk, beaten
Schafskasebrot Let the dough rise once in a bowl. Divide it into two equal
Any soft sheep's-milk cheese-obtainable from cheese spe- portions and roll one portion into a circle 14 inches [35 em.]
cialty stores-can be used. If it is not available, substitute in diameter. Place the circle of dough on an oiled baking
farmer cheese. sheet. Pile the cheese in the middle in a neat, round heap 6
To make one 12-inch [30-cm.] oval loaf inches [15 em.] wide. Roll out half of the remaining dough
into a circle just large enough to cover the cheese topping.
8 cups flour 2 liters Lay this circle of dough on top of the cheese, sealing it on
two packages active dry yeast or two with a little water at the edges. Space the eggs and sections
Y4 oz. two 3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast lY2 g. of sausage alternately around the edge of the large dough
circle. Roll the remaining dough into narrow strips the
2 cups tepid water Y2 liter width of a pencil and use them in a crisscross pattern to bind
1 tsp. sugar 5 mi. the eggs and sausage to the bread base. Moisten the ends of
the dough strips to help them stick. Let the loaf rise in a
Y2 lb. sheep' s-milk cheese y4 kg. warm place for about one hour.
1 tsp. salt 5 mi. Glaze the loaf with the egg yolk and bake it in a preheat-
ed 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 25 minutes. Then lower the heat
3 medium-sized onions, chopped 3 to 350° F. [180° C.] and bake the loaf for another 25 minutes.
1 tbsp. oil 15ml. The eggs will cook, the sausage render its juices and the
cheese melt succulently into the bread.
Mix the yeast with the sugar and all but 3 tablespoons [45 JUDITH OLNEY
ml.] of the tepid water. Leave the mixture in a warm place SUMMER FOOD

113
FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

Neapolitan Rustic Brioche diameter and 14 inch [6 mm.] thick. Place the dough on a
well-oiled baking sheet and let it rest in a warm place, pro-
Brioche Rustica tected from drafts, for one hour, or until it is light and puffy.
To make one 70-inch [25-cm.] brioche Prick the surface of the dough thoroughly with a fork and
bake it in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven for about 20
1 lb. rich egg-bread dough (recipe, Y2 kg. minutes, or until it is golden brown.
page 765) GUGLIELMA CORSI
3Y2 oz. prosciutto, coarsely chopped 100 g. UN SECOLO DI CUCINA UMBRA

5 oz. provolone cheese, diced 150 g.

5 oz. Bel Paese or butter cheese, diced 150 g.
% to freshly ground pepper 1 to
Y2 tsp. 2ml. No-Knead Dill Bread
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese % liter To make one 8-inch [20-cm. ] round loaf

Prepare the dough in the usual way, but after the second 2% to flour 550to
rising, knead in the prosciutto, diced cheeses, pepper and 2% cups 625 mi.
grated Parmesan. Put the dough into a fluted 10-inch [25- Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. lY2 g.
cm.] brioche mold with a center tube; the dough should only [18 g.] ca ke fresh yeast
half-fill the mold. Let the dough rise in a warm place for one
hour, or until doubled in bulk. Y4 tsp. baking soda 1 mi.
Put the brioche into a preheated 300° F. [150° C.] oven. %cup tepid water 50 mi.
Bake it for about 45 minutes, or until it is well risen and
1 cup small-curd cottage cheese % liter
golden brown. Let the brioche rest for 10 minutes after re-
moving it from the oven, then turn it out onto a serving dish. 2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
JEANNE CAR0LA FRANCESCONI
2 tbsp. honey 30 mi.
LA CUCINA NAPOLETANA
2 tsp . dried dillweed 10ml.
1 tsp . sa lt 5 mi.
1 egg, beaten 1

In a large mixing bowl, mix the yeast with the tepid water.
Country Flatbread In a saucepan, heat the cottage cheese, 1 tablespoon [15 ml.]
of the butter, and the honey until they are lukewarm. Add to
Pizza R ustica the cottage-cheese mixture the baking soda, dillweed, salt
Pecorino cheese is Italian sheep's-milk cheese, obtainable at and egg. Stir to blend all of the flavorings.
cheese specialty stores. !fit is not available, Gruyere or sharp Scrape the cottage-cheese mixture into the yeast and wa-
Cheddar cheese may be substituted. ter, and stir together. Add enough flour to make a firm ball of
dough; stir the mixture with a wooden spoon but do not
To make one 70-inch [25-cm.] round
knead. Soak a cloth with hot water, wring it out, and place it
flatbread
over the mixing bowl. Let the dough rise in a warm place
1 lb. basic bread dough (recipe, page 764), %kg. until it has doubled in bulk, about one hour.
risen once Stir down the dough, and put it in a well-buttered, 8-inch
2 eggs, beaten 2 [20-cm.] ·round cake pan, patting the dough to smooth it a
little. Let the dough rise for about 45 minutes.
3% oz. prosciutto, diced 100g. Bake in a preheated 350° F . [180° C.] oven for 40 to 50
%cup fine ly diced pecorino cheese 50 mi. minutes, or until the top is nicely browned. Cool the bread
slightly, then remove it to a rack. To achieve a shiny crust,
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese % liter melt the remaining butter and brush it over the top.
%cup olive oil 50 mi. THE GREAT COOKS' GUIDE TO BREADS

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Mix the eggs, prosciutto, cheeses, oil and a pinch each of salt
and pepper with the dough, and knead the mixture well for
about five minutes. Then, with your hands or a rolling pin,
roll out the dough into a round about 10 inches [25 em.] in
114
 Italian Flatbread with Butter Cover the pan tightly and set it on a trivet in a large pot of
gently simmering water. Cover the pot and cook the bread
Schiacciata col Bur.ro for one and one half hours, or until it is firm to the touch and
To make one 10-inch [25-cm. ] flatbread sounds hollow when rapped. Turn the bread out of the pan,
cool, and store in a dry place until you are ready to use it.
lib. basic bread dough (recipe, page 164) Y2 kg. HERMINE KIEHNLE AND MARIA HADECKE
8 tbsp. butter, softened 120 mi. DAS GROSSE KIEHNLE-KOCHBUCH

2 tsp. salt lOml.

10 fresh basil leaves 10
2 tbsp. -olive oil 30 mi.

Knead the dough thoroughly, then incorporate the butter Swedish Salt Sticks
and knead for a further five minutes. Let the dough rise in a Saltstanger
warm place for 30 minutes.
Roll out the dough to fit into an oiled, 10-inch [25-cm.] The au_thor of this f~mous Swedish cookbook ran a cooking
pizza pan, and dimple the surface by pressing it here and school mStockholm m the 1930s. The book is dedicated to her
there with your finger. Sprinkle the dough generously with three most illustrious pupils: Princess Margaretha of Den-
salt, then distribute the basil leaves evenly over the surface. mark, Crown Princess Martha of Norway and Crown Prin-
Sprinkle the dough with the olive oil.
cess Astrid of Belgium.
Bake the flatbread in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven To make about 30 sticks
for about 30 minutes, or until golden. Before serving, discard flour Y2 liter
2 cups
the basil leaves, which only flavor the bread. Serve hot.
3/s oz. cake fresh yeast
MARIO SALVATORI DE ZULIANI 18 g.
LA CUCINA DI VERSILIA E GARFAGNANA
2 tbsp. butter, cut into small pieces 30 mi.
% tsp. salt 2ml.
1 tsp. sugar 5ml.
2 or 3 whole cardamoms, husks removed 2 or 3
and seeds pounded to a powder in a
Crustless Caraway Bread mortar
Kiimmelbrot (Ohne Rinde) 3J4 cup milk 175 mi.
To make one 10-by-4-inch
[25-by-1 0-cm.] loaf Salt topping
3% cups flour 800 mi. %cup milk 50 mi.
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or lY2 g. 1 tbsp. coarse salt 15ml.
3/s
oz. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast 1 tbsp. caraway seeds (optional) 15 mi.
Y2 cup tepid milk 125 mi.
~ut the butter, flour_ and salt into a bowl. With your finger
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi. tips, rub the butter mto the flour. Stir together the yeast,
1 tbsp. caraway seeds 15ml. sugar and pounded cardamom seeds. Make a well in the
30 mi.
center of the flour and pour in the yeast mixture and the
2 tbsp. butter or lard
milk; mix thoroughly to make a firm dough.
Stir the yeast into the tepid milk and set aside for about 10 . Divid_e the dou~h into 30 small pieces, and roll each piece
minutes, or until foaming. Sift the flour into a bowl, make a mto a stick the th1ckness of a finger and about 3 inches [8
well in the middle, and pour in the yeast mixture. Mix to- em.] long. Put the sticks onto buttered-and-floured baking
gether to make a dough, and leave for 30 minutes to rise sheets. Take a sharp knife or razor blade and make two or
about half as much again. Then mix in the salt, caraway th_ree di~gonal slits in each stick. For the topping, brush the
seeds, and butter or lard, and knead well to form a soft sticks w1th the milk and sprinkle the coarse salt-mixed
dough-about 10 minutes. Leave the dough in a warm place with caraway seeds if you like-over them.
until it has doubled in bulk-approximately one and one L~t the sticks rise in a warm place until they have dou-
half to two hours. bled m volume-about 30 minutes. Bake them in a pre-
~eated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for 20 minutes, or until they are
Butter a pain de mie pan or a 1 '12-quart [1 '12-liter] baking
pan with a tightly fitting lid. Knead the dough well and hghtly browned.
JENNY AKERSTROM
place it in the pan; the dough should only half-fill the pan. PRINSESSORNAS KOKBOK

115
FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

Oiled Flatbread place the sprig of sage to decorate the bread. Sprinkle the
bread with a small handful of sea salt and let it rise for 20
Stiacciata con !'Olio minutes. Bake the bread in a preheated 375° F. [190° C.]
To make one 12-by-8-inch oven for about 45 minutes.
[30-by-20-cm.] flatbread JUDITH OLNEY
SUMMER FOOD
21b. basic bread dough (recipe, page 164) 1 kg.
%cup olive oil 150 mi.
1 tsp. salt 5 mi.

Knead liz cup [125 mi.] of the olive oil into the dough. Spread
the dough in a n oiled 12-by-8-inch [30-by-20-cm.] baking
pan with sides about 1lf.t inches [3 em.] high. Prick the dough
with a fork , sprinkle it with salt and the r est of the olive oil,
and let the dough r ise in a warm place for about 30 minutes,
or until it is doubled in bulk. Bake in a preheated 425° F.
[220° C.] oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Neapolitan Pepper Wreaths
Serve hot or cold. Taralli a Sugna e Pepe
LOUISMONOD
LA CUISINE FLORENTINE A popular variation of this recipe calls for inserting a few
blanched, halved and toasted almonds between the twists
in the wreaths.
To make about twenty 3 Y2-inch
[9-cm. ] wreaths
Sage Flatbread 4 cups flou r 1 liter
Focaccia con Salvia %oz. package active dry yeast and 1 tsp. 7% g .
The technique of preparing sage fiatbread is demonstrated [5 mi.] sugar, or 3/s oz. [18 g.] cake
on page 67. fresh yeast
To make one 10-inch [25-cm. ] round 1 Y4 cups tepid water 300 mi.
flatbread 10 tbsp. lard , cut into sma ll pieces and 150 mi.
2Y2 cups flour 625 mi. softened
y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. lY2 g. 1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
[18 g.] ca ke fresh yeast 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 10 mi.
1 cup tepid water Y4 liter
Stir the yeast into the water. If using active dry yeast, add 1
1 tbsp. olive oil 15ml. teaspoon [5 mi.] of sugar to the mixture and leave in a warm
35 large fresh sage leaves, the leaves 35 place until foaming, about 10 minutes. Heap the flour onto a
stri pped from their center ribs and working surface, make a well in the center and pour in t he
coarsely chopped, plus one sage yeast mixture. Add t he lard, salt and pepper. Mix the ingre-
sprig dients vigorously until they are thoroughly combined, a nd
then knead the dough for 10 minutes.
egg yolk
Divide the dough into four pieces; roll each piece into a
sea salt cylinder about Vz inch [1 em.] thick, making sure that the
pieces a re of equal length. Twist t he cylinders together in
Mix the yeast with the tepid water. Add the chopped sage pairs and then slice each pa ir into 8-inch [20-cm.] lengths.
leaves and the olive oil, then work in the flour until the Join the ends of each length to form a wreath, using your
dough is firm enough to be turned out on a floured surface. thumb to press t he ends firmly together. Arrange the
Continue adding flour until the dough pulls away from your wreaths on a kitchen towel, cover them wit h another kitchen
hand as you knead and no longer sticks to the work surface. towel, and let t hem rise in a warm place for at least one hour.
Knead hard for 10 to 12 minutes. Let the dough double in Bake the wreaths on lightly greased baking sheets in a
bulk- at least 40 minutes. preheated 350° F . [180° C.] oven for one hour; if they are not
Roll out the dough into a round approximately 1 inch [2l.lz baked slowly, they will remain raw inside. When cooked,
em.] thick. Place the dough on an oiled ba king sheet and they should be crisp and golden. Serve t he wreaths cold.
make a series of indentations in the dough with a finger. MARIA RIVECCIO ZANIBONI
Brush the dough with the egg-yolk glaze and, in the center , CU CINA E VINI DI NAPOLI E DE LLA CAMPANIA

116
 Fennel Rings needed. Work in the yeast mixture and the rest of the liquid.
Knead thoroughly and let the dough rise until doubled in
Taralli con i Finocchietti bulk-about two hours.
To make 24 rings Punch down the dough, knead it lightly, lay it on a
floured baking sheet, and shape it into a round or oval loaf.
3Y2 cups flour 875 mi. Cover the loaf with a damp cloth and let it rise for about 30
two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast or two 7Y2 g. minutes, or until it has increased in bulk by half.
two 3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast Bake the loaf in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven for
about 45 minutes, or until the crust is light brown.
1 cup tepid water Y4 liter
MADAME MERIGOT
1 tsp. salt 5 mi. LA CUISINIERE REPUBLICAINE

2 tsp. fennel seeds 10ml.

Mix the yeast with the water. Sift the flour onto a working
surface, make a well in the center and add the yeast. Then
add the salt and fennel seeds. Work them into the flour and Pumpkin Bread
knead the resulting dough for 10 minutes. Divide the dough Pain de Citrouille
into 24 pieces. Roll each piece into a cylinder about the width
of a finger and 4 inches [10 em.] long. Bring the ends of each The original recipe from which this version is adapted ap-
cylinder together to make a ring and seal the joint with a pears in one of the earliest cookbooks ever published -first
little water. Lay these rings on a cloth sprinkled with flour printed in France in 1654. The author of the book was King
and let them rise, uncovered, in a warm place for about one Louis XIV's valet. Any winter squash -hubbard, acorn, but-
and a half hours, or until doubled in bulk. ternut or the like -may be substituted for the pumpkin.
In a large saucepan, bring some water to a rapid boil. To make one 10-inch [25-cm. ] round loaf
Drop the well-risen rings into the water one by one. Turn
10 cups flour 2 Y2 liters
them over with a slotted spoon as they rise to the surface and
immediately remove them from the water. Drain the rings two Y4 oz. packa ges active dry yeast or two 7Y2 g.
on a kitchen towel. Transfer the rings to buttered baking two 3/s oz. [18 g .] cakes fresh yeast
sheets. Do not preheat the oven, but set it to 375° F. [190° C.] 1% lb. pumpkin, halved, seeded and 875 g.
and bake the rings for 45 minutes, or until crisp and golden. scraped, cut into chunks and peeled
J EANNE CAR0LA FRANCESCONI
LA CUCINA NAPOLETANA 1 tbsp. salt 15 mi.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil; add the pumpkin,

cover the pot and simmer gently for 25 minutes, or until the
pumpkin is soft. Drain the pumpkin; reserve the cooking
Mashed Potato Bread liquid and let it cool to tepid. Press the pumpkin through a
fine-meshed sieve to puree it and r emove its fibers. Cool t he
Pain a la Pomme de Terre puree to tepid, then mix it with t he flour a nd salt.
This recipe is adapted from what is probably the only cook- Stir the yeast into 1/ 3 cup [75 ml.] of the pumpkin-cooking
book published during the French R evolution. liquid, and leave it in a warm place for about 10 minutes.
Add the yeast to the pumpkin-a nd-flour mixture, and mix
To make one 12-inch [30-cm. ] round or ova/loaf thoroughly to make a fairly firm dough. If the dough is too
8 cups flour 2 liters dry, add a few spoonfuls of pumpkin-cooking liquid. Knead
the dough for 15 minutes and let it rise until doubled in
two packages active dry yeast or two bulk-about two hours.
%oz. two 3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast lY2 g. Punch down the dough, knead it lightly, sh ape it into a
1Y4 cups tepid milk mixed with l Y4 cups 300 mi. ball and set it on a buttered baking sheet. Flatten the ball
[300 mi. ] tepid water slightly. Let the dough rest for 50 minutes or until well risen
again. To test the dough, press a finger into it; if the dough
2 tsp. salt 10 mi. does not spring back immediately, it is ready for baking.
4 medium-sized potatoes, boiled, peeled 4 With a razor blade or a sharp knife , make a circular
and mashed (about 2 cups [Y2 liter]) incision around the top of the ball about 2 inches [5 em.] from
the curve at the edge. Bake in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.]
Mix the yeast with Vz cup [125 ml.] of the tepid milk-and- oven for about 50 minutes, or until the bread is golden and
water mixture. Sift 8 cups [2liters] of flour together with the sounds hollow when rapped.
salt into a bowl. Rub the mashed potatoes into the flour, as if NICOLAS DE BONNEFONS
rubbing in fat, to ma ke a smooth mixture. Add more flour if LES DELICES DE LA CAMPAGNE

117
FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

Vegetable Bread yams, add the butter and stir. Let the yams cool.
Mix the yeast with the tepid yam-cooking water. Add
Eliza Acton published her bread book in 1857 and was one of 2 cups ['h liter] of flour and the egg; beat thoroughly.
the first cookbook writers to advocate whole-wheat bread. Add the yams and 1 more cup of flour. The dough will be
Many vegetables may be used in part for ma king bread; sticky. Pour it into an oiled bowl, cover and let it rise until
but with the exception of potatoes and the seed of the green doubled in bulk (one hour). Stir down the dough and add
bean, all vegetables will impart their peculiar flavor to it, approximately 1,4 cup [50 ml.] of flour. The dough will still be
though their presence may not otherwise be perceptible. thin. Spoon it into oiled muffin pans. Let the dough rise until
Parsnips, rutabagas and beets will all answer for dough doubled in bulk (one half hour). Bake in a preheated 350° F.
(parsnips the best of any) if boiled tender, mashed to a [180° C.] oven for 12 to 15 minutes, or until lightly browned.
smooth pulp (the beets, which may also be baked, must be JULIA OLDER AND STEVE SHERMAN
grated), and stirred in a saucepan over a gentle fire until SOUP AND BREAD
tolerably dry, and left to become cool before they are mixed
with flour or meal for the purpose.
To make two 9-by-5-inch
[23-by-13-cm. ] loaves
8 cups all-purpose or whole-wheat flour 2 liters
two% oz. packages active dry yeast or two two 7% g.
3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast Zucchini Bread
about tepid water about To make one 10-inch [25-cm .] cylindrical/oaf
1% cups 375 mi. 5 cups flou r 1% liters
4 cups cooked a nd pureed navy beans, 1 liter package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 7Y2 g.
parsnips, rutabagas or beets [18 g.] cake fres h yeast
2 tsp. sa lt 10 mi. 3 or 4 medium -sized zucchini, washed and 3 or 4
ends trimmed off
Stir the yeast into 112 cup [125 ml.] of the tepid water. Mix the
pureed vegetables with the flour and salt, adding the yeast 2 tbsp. salt 30 mi.
mixture and only enough additional tepid water to make a 1Y4 cups tepid water 300 mi.
firm dough. Knead the dough thoroughly, then let it rise for
one and a half hours, or until well risen. Punch down the olive oil or 1 egg yolk, beaten
dough and knead it again. Half-fill two buttered 9-by-5-inch
[23-by-13-cm.] loaf pans and leave them in a warm place for Coarsely grate zucchini into a deep, wide bowl. When the
zucchini gratings cover the bottom of the bowl, sprinkle
the dough to rise for one hour, or until risen by one third.
Bake in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven for about 50 them with salt. Grate in another layer of zucchini and sprin-
kle again with salt. Repeat alternate layers of grated zuc-
minutes, or until golden brown on top.
chini and salt until the zucchini is used up. Leave the grat-
ELIZA ACTON
THE ENGLISH BREAD· BOOK FOR DOMESTIC USE ings for about 30 minutes so that the salt will draw out the
excess moisture. Then press out the moisture by squeezing
the zucchini in your hands.
Mix the yeast with 'h cup [125 ml.] of tepid water. In
Yam Rolls another bowl, thoroughly mix the zucchini, the yeast and the
To make 16 rolls flour; gradually add enough tepid water to make a smooth
but fairly firm dough. Knead the dough well for about 10
about flour about minutes. Return it to the bowl, cover it with a damp cloth
3Y4 cups 800 mi. towel or with plastic wrap and let the dough rise for about
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 7Y2 g. one and a halfhours, until doubled in bulk. Knead the dough
[18 g.] cake fresh yeast into a loose round, then shape it into a tapered cylindrical
loaf. Lay it on a buttered baking sheet, cover it with a towel
2 medium-sized yams, peeled 2 and let it rise in a warm place for about 45 minutes, until
3 tbsp. unsalted butter 45 mi. doubled in bulk. Just before baking, brush the loaf
with olive oil or egg yolk to prevent the pieces of zucchini on
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi. the surface from burning.
1 egg, lightly beaten 1 Bake the zucchini bread in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.]
oven for 40 to 45 minutes, until the bottom sounds hollow
Boil and drain the yams, reserving 1 cup [1,4 liter] of their when rapped. Cool the loaf on a wire rack.
cooking water. Cool the water until tepid. Mash the hot PETITS PROPOS CULINAIRES IV

118
 Walnut Whole-wheat Bread Walnut and Onion Bread
Le Pain de Noix Le Sale du Bugey
To make two 9-by-5-inch To make one 10-inch [25-cm.] round or
[23-by-13-cm.] loaves square loaf
3 cups whole-wheat flour %liter 1 lb. basic bread dough (recipe, page 164)
3 cups all-purpose flour %liter 2 small onions, sliced into thick rounds 2
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7% g. salt and peppe r
3/s
oz. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast 2 to 3 tbsp . walnut oi l 30 to 45 mi.
Y4 cup tepid water 50 mi. 2 or 3 tbsp. finely chopped walnuts 30or45ml.
1% cups milk 425 mi.
Make the bread dough in the usual way, and let it rise until
Y4 cup huckleberry honey or other dark honey 50 mi. doubled in bulk. Punch it down and divide it into two pieces,
3 tbsp. butter 45 mi. one twice as big as the other. Roll out the larger piece in a
circle about % inch [1lh em.] thick to fit a round or square
2 tsp. salt 10ml. baking sheet. Butter the sheet and lay the dough on it.
Y4 tsp. ground ginger 1 mi. Divide the remaining dough into five or six pieces and
roll them into sausage shapes, each about the thickness of a
Y4 cup wheat germ 50 mi.
finger. Bend these pieces of dough into 2-inch [5-cm.] rings,
2 cups walnut halves, plus 2h cup [150 mi.] Y2 liter pinching the ends firmly together. Arrange the rings on top
ground walnuts of the dough on the baking sheet. Lay an onion round in the
egg yolk, beaten with 1 tsp. [5 mi.] milk center of each dough ring, and arrange the remaining onion
rounds over the rest of the rolled-out dough. Cover the bread
Combine the yeast with the tepid water and set aside. Bring and let it rise for about one hour. Season the bread with salt
and pepper, sprinkle it with oil and scatter the walnuts over
the milk almost to boiling, then remove it from the heat; stir
in the honey, 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the butter, the salt the surface. Bake in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for
about 40 minutes, or until the bread sounds slightly hollow
and ginger, and leave to cool. Then, in a large mixing bo~l,
combine the yeast solution with the milk-and-honey mix- when rapped on the bottom. Allow to cool before serving.
LUCIEN TEND RET
ture. Add 1 cup [1:4 liter] of the all-purpose flour, the whole- LA TABLE AU PAYS DE BRILLAT-SAVARIN
wheat flour, the wheat germ and the ground walnuts. Stir
thoroughly before adding another cup of the all-purpose
flour. The dough should be somewhat sticky and too stiff to
stir easily. Add more flour if necessary. Spread lh cup [125
ml.] of the remaining all-purpose flour on a flat surface and
turn the dough out onto it. Knead the dough vigorously until Italian Flatbread with Ham
it is elastic and no longer sticky, usually in 10 to 15 minutes. Gnocco al Forno
Clean and lightly butter the bowl and return the dough to it.
To make one 14-inch [35-cm.] round flatbread
Set it aside, covered, in a warm place until the dough has
doubled in bulk, in one and a half to two hours.
Then punch the dough down and divide it in half. Roll
each half into a ball, cover the balls and let them rest on the
lightly floured work surface for about 20 minutes before flat- ham or pork stock, or water 50 mi.
tening each ball into a large pancake. Scatter the walnut 2 tsp . coarse salt 10ml.
halves over the dough, pressing the nuts in slightly, then roll
each pancake like a jelly roll and tuck in the ends. Pinch the After the bread dough has risen for the first time, knead it,
seam to seal, and place the rolls in 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13- adding the prosciutto and the stock. The dough will be rather
cm.] loaf pans with the seam underneath. Let them rise in a soft. Roll out the dough into a round about % inch [2 em.]
warm place until nearly doubled in bulk, about one hour. thick and lay it on a buttered baking sheet. With a sharp
Bake the loaves in a preheated 375° F. [190° C.] oven. knife, lightly score the surface to create a lattice pattern.
After 35 minutes, brush the tops with the egg-yolk-and-milk Sprinkle the dough with the coarse salt. Let the dough rise in
glaze, then continue baking until they are browned and. a a warm place for 20 minutes. Bake it in a preheated 425° F.
knife tip inserted in the center comes out clean, usually m [220° C.] oven for about 20 minutes, or until brown. Serve
about 10 minutes more. the bread while still warm.
ROY ANDRIES DE GROOT GIORGIO CA VAZZUTI (EDITOR)
THE AUBERGE OF THE FLOWERING HEARTH IL MANGIARFUORI: ALMANACCO DELLA CUCINA MODENESE

119
FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

prepare pork cracklings, see the editor's note for Portuguese

Crackling Loaf (below) .
To make two 12-inch [30-cm.] round
flatbreads
21b. basic bread dough (recipe, page 164), 1 kg.
Anchovy Loaf risen once
La Pompe aux Anchois 3 tbsp. lard, softened 45 mi.
This is an oldProvenr;al recipe. Traditionally, the leaven con- Y4 cup pork cracklings SO mi.
sists of a piece of dough left over from the preceding week's Y2 cup finely diced pecorino cheese 125 mi.
batch of bread. Here it is replaced by basic bread dough.
3% oz. sopressata, finely diced 100 g.
To make two 10-inch [25-cm.] round
loaves salt

8 cups flour 2 liters Knead the dough by pulling it and tearing it apart very
1 lb. basic bread dough (recipe, page 164) roughly, while gradually incorporating the lard, cracklings,
cheese and salami. Then add a pinch of salt, and knead for a
7 tbsp. oil 105 mi. further two to three minutes. Divide the dough into two
20 salt anchovies, filleted, soaked in 20 pieces. Roll out each piece into a round about 1fz inch [1 em.]
water for 30 minutes, rinsed and patted dry thick and lay it on a greased baking sheet. Bake the flat-
breads in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for about 30
7 tbsp. butter, softened 1OS mi. minutes, or until golden brown. Serve while still warm.
4 eggs, lightly beaten 4 MARIA RIVECCIO ZANIBONI
CUCINA E VINI Dl NAPOLI E DELLA CAMPANIA
2 or 3 tbsp. brandy 30or45 mi.

In a saucepan containing 5 tablespoons [75 ml.] of the oil,

cook 18 of the anchovies to a paste, taking care not to let
them boil. Chop the remaining two anchovies into fine bits Portuguese Crackling Loaf
and reserve them.
Work the butter into the bread dough until the butter is Broas de Torresmos de Souzel
completely absorbed. Work in the cooked anchovies, the To make the cracklings called for in this recipe, first dice
eggs, then the brandy, and finally the flour. Knead until the 1 pound [ ¥2 kg.] offresh pork belly - including the skin. Place
dough no longer sticks to your fingers-about 10 minutes. it ina large pan, add ¥2cup [125 ml.]ofwaterandfry over low
Let the dough rise in a warm place for one and one half heat for 10 minutes, until the pork has rendered most ofits fat,
hours, or until it doubles in bulk. and the bits of skin and tissue-the cracklings -are crisp
Shape the risen dough into two round loaves. Pour the and golden. Drain them on paper towels.
remaining oil into two 10-inch [25-cm.] tart pans, place the To make one 8 %-by-4 %-inch
loaves in the pans and sprinkle the tops with the chopped [2 7-by-1 7-em.] loaf
anchovies, pressing the pieces into place with your fingers.
Bake the loaves in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 2 cups flour Y2 liter
25 minutes. Then turn the loaves upside down so that they Y2 lb. basic bread dough (recipe, page 164) y4 kg.
will brown on the bottoms, and bake them for a further 25
minutes, or until they are golden brown. Y2 lb. pork cracklings, finely chopped Y4 kg.
RODOLPHE BRINGER 1 cup sugar Y4 liter
LES BONS VIEUX PLATS DU TRICASTIN
2 eggs, beaten 2
1 tsp. ground cinnamon 5 mi.
2 tsp. grou nd anise seeds 10 mi.
%cup brandy 150 mi.
Neapolitan Crackling Flatbread
egg yol k, lightly beaten 1
Tortano con i cicoli o Pizza Stracciata
Pecorino cheese is Italian sheep's-milk cheese, obtainable at Let the bread dough rise until doubled in bulk, about one and
cheese specialty stores. !fit is not available, Gruyere or sharp a half hours. Fry the cracklings lightly over low heat. Pour
Cheddar cheese can be substituted. Sopressata is a pork-and- the flour over them and brown it, stirring with a wooden
beefsalami. Any good-quality salami can be used instead. To spoon. Remove from the heat and add all of the remaining
120
ingredients except the egg yolk. Mix them together, then Currant-Raisin Bread
work them into the bread dough. Sprinkle an 8lf2-by-4'h-
inch [21-by-11-cm.] loaf pan with extra flour and spoon in Bara Brith
the mixture. Let it rise in a warm place for 30 minutes, or To make two 8 %-by-4 Y2-inch
until the dough rises to just above the rim of the pan. [21-by-11 -em. ] loaves
Glaze the loaf with the beaten egg yolk and bake it in a
preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for about 50 minutes, or 8 to flour 2 to
until the loaf sounds slightly hollow when rapped. 9 cups 2Y4 liters
MARIA ODE'ITE CORTES VALENTE two 3/s oz. cakes fresh yeast two 18g.
COZINHA REGIONAL PORTUGUESA
24 tbsp. butter, cut into pieces (% lb. (Y3 kg.]) 360 mi.
1Y2 cups dried currants, soaked in hot 375 mi.
water fo r 15 minutes a nd drained
1Y2 cups seedless white raisins, soaked in hot 375 mi.
water for 15 minutes a nd drained
%cup dark raisins, soaked in warm water for 175 mi.
15 minutes and drained
Algerian Orange-flavored Loaves Y2 cup chopped mixed candied fruit peel 125 mi.
Mounas Y4 tsp. grated nutmeg or ground allspice 1 mi.
To make four 8-inch [20-cm. ] round or Y2 tsp. salt 2ml.
cylindrical loaves
1 cup brown sugar % liter
8 cups flou r 2 liters
Y2 cup tepid milk 125 mi.
two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast or two two 7Y2 g.
3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yea st 2 eggs, well beaten 2

Y3 cup tepid water 75 mi. 2 tsp. dark molasses, mixed w ith 1 Y2 cups 10ml.
[375 mi.] tepid water
5 large eggs 5
1Y4 cups granulated sugar, mixed with 2 tsp. 300 mi.
Put 8 cups [2 liters] of the flour in a mixing bowl and let it
[1 0 mi. ] grated o range peel stand in a warm place for a short while. Rub t he butter into
the flour until the mixture resembles meal, add the cur-
6 tbsp. olive oil 90 mi. rants, raisins, fruit peel, nutmeg or a llspice, salt and all but
5 tbsp. butter, cut into pieces 75 mi. 1 teaspoon [5 ml.] of the brown sugar. Mix thoroughly. In a
smaller bowl cream the yeast with the remaining sugar and
1 egg yolk, beaten with 3 tbsp. [45 mi.] 1 blend the yeast mixture with the milk. Make a well in the
water center of the dry ingredients, pour the yeast mixture into it
3 tbsp. confecti oners' sugar 45 mi. and sprinkle a little additional flour over the yeast mixture.
Cover the dough and let it stand in a warm place for a few
Mix the yeast with the water. Mix it into 1 cup (1,4liter] of the minutes, until it is just beginning to rise. Pour the beaten
flour. Cover this yeast sponge and let it rest for one hour, or eggs into the bowl and proceed to knead the ingredients to a
until it has doubled in bulk. In a bowl, combine the eggs and soft dough. While kneading, gradually add t he molasses
orange-flavored sugar. Add the oil and butter. Gradually mixture to the dough.
beat in the remaining flour. Add the yeast sponge, then Cover the bowl with a cloth and let the dough rise in a
knead the dough for 15 minutes, or until it is smooth and warm place for one and a half hours, or until it has doubled in
elastic. Put it in a floured bowl, cover it with a cloth and let it bulk. Then turn the dough out onto a well-floured board,
rest in a warm place for three hours, or until doubled in bulk. divide it in half and put it into two well-buttered 8'h-by-
Shape the dough into four round or cylindrical loaves. 4 'h-inch [21-by-11-cm.] loaf pans. Let the loaves rise in a
Place them on floured baking sheets, cover them and let warm place for about 30 minute~, or until they have nearly
them rise for one and a half hours. When the loaves have risen to the rims of the pans. Then bake the loaves in a
doubled in bulk, use a sharp knife or razor blade to make preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for one to one and a ha lf
incisions in the tops. Glaze the loaves with the egg yolk, hours, so that the tops are browned and the loaves sound
sprinkle them with confectioners' sugar and bake them in a hollow when rapped.
preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for 50 minutes, or until they S. MINWEL TIBBO'IT
sound hollow when rapped on the bottom. WELSH FARE
IRENE AND LUCIENNE KARSENTY
LA CUISINE PIED-NOIR

121
FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

Cranberry-Orange Anadama Bread loaves in two oiled 8¥2-by-4¥2-inch [21-by-11-cm.] loaf pans
or on oiled baking sheets and let the loaves rise until the
To make two 8 % -by-4 % -inch mounded tops are higher than the rims of the pans, if using,
[21-by-1 1-cm.] rectangular or 8-inch or for 45 minutes.
[20-cm. ] round loaves With a sharp knife, make several slashes across the tops
about unbleached all-purpose flour about of the loaves and brush with egg wash. Bake in a preheated
2Y2 cups 625 mi. 350° F. [180° C.] oven for 50 minutes. Cool on wire racks.
MARTHA ROSE SHULMAN
2 cups whole-wheat flour Y2 liter THE VEGETARIAN FEAST
%cup yellow cornmeal, preferably stone- 125 mi.
ground
1% cups wheat germ 375 mi.
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 7Y2 g.
[18 g.] cake fresh yeast
1% cups fresh orange juice 400 mi.
Y3 cup molasses 75 mi. Hot Cross Buns
%cup tepid water 125 mi. To make about eighteen 3 Y2-inch [9-cm.]
buns
1 Y2 cups cranberries 375 mi.
3 cups flour 314 liter
1 tbsp. grated orange peel 15 mi.
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 7Y2 g.
Y4 cup honey 50 mi. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast
2 tbsp. vegetable or safflower oil 30 mi.
Y4 cup tepid water 50 mi.
2 tsp. sea salt 10ml. 1 cup milk, scalded Y4 liter
1 egg, beaten with %. cup [50 mi.] water 1 %cup sugar 125 mi.
Warm 1113 cups [325 ml.] of the orange juice in a small, 3 tbsp. butter, melted 45 mi.
heavy-bottomed saucepan until bubbles form around the Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
sides of the pan. Gradually add the cornmeal, stirring with a
fork or wire whisk. Reduce the heat to low and stir with a 2 eggs, beaten separately 2
wooden spoon, scraping the cornmeal from the sides and Y2 tsp. ground cinnamon 2 mi.
bottom of the pan, until the mixture is thick; this will take a
few minutes. Make sure to break up any lumps of cornmeal. ground cloves
Remove the pan from the heat and add the molasses to the Y2 cup dried currants 125 mi.
cornmeal. Allow to cool to tepid.
Mix the yeast with the tepid water in a large bowl. When Y4 cup finely julienned candied citron 50 mi.
the cornmeal mixture has cooled, add it to the yeast and 1 cup confectioners' sugar, sifted and mixed Y4 liter
water. Then stir in 1 cup [1:4 liter] of the all-purpose flour. with 2 tbsp. [30 mi.] milk and Y2 tsp.
Stir a hundred times (the mixture will be thick and hard to [1 mi.] vanilla extract
stir, so be sure to use a wooden spoon), then cover and set this
sponge aside in a warm place for 30 minutes. Mix the yeast with the tepid water. Combine the milk, sug-
Meanwhile, put the cranberries, orange peel, honey and ar, butter and salt. When the milk mixture is tepid, add the
remaining orange juice in a blender or food processor and yeast. Add one of the beaten eggs and mix well. Sift together
blend until the cranberries are coarsely chopped. the flour, cinnamon and a pinch of cloves. Add the currants
Fold the oil and salt into the sponge. Fold in the cranber- and citron and mix thoroughly. Cover, and let the dough rise
ry mixture, the wheat germ and the whole-wheat flour, a cup in a warm place until doubled in bulk.
at a time. Add enough all-purpose flour to make a soft dough. Punch down the dough, shape it into round buns and
Flour your kneading surface and turn the dough out onto place them close together in a well-buttered pan. Let the
it. Knead for 10 to 15 minutes, adding all-purpose flour as buns rise again. Brush the top of each bun with some of the
necessary. When your dough is smooth and elastic, wash out remaining beaten egg. Make a cross on each bun with a
your bowl, oil it, return the dough to it, and let the dough rise sharp knife. Bake in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 20
for one hour. Punch the dough down, and let it rise again for minutes. Remove the buns from the oven and brush over the
50 to 60 minutes. cross markings with the confectioners' -sugar mixture.
Turn the dough out onto the board and divide it in half. SARA B. B. STAMM
Shape each half into a rectangular or round loaf. Place the YANKEE MAGAZINE'S FAVORITE NEW ENGLAND RECIPES

122
 Sweet Pretzels bowl, make a well in the center and break in the eggs. Add a
pinch of salt and the tepid butter. Add the yeast mixture and
Hamburger Brezeln work the ingredients together. Knead the dough thoroughly
To make about 36 pretzels for about 10 minutes, cover, then let it rise in a warm place
until doubled in bulk, about two hours.
6 cups flour 1 Y2 liters Roll out the dough to a thickness of about lh inch [1 em.]
two packages active dry yeast or two to fit a buttered 10-inch [25-cm.] tart pan or piepan. Lay the
y4 oz. two 3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast 7Y2 g. dough in the pan, sprinkle it with the brown sugar and dot it
with the rest of the butter, cut into pieces. Let the dough rise
2 cups tepid milk Y2 liter for about 30 minutes in a warm place. Then bake in a pre-
2 tsp. grated lemon peel 10 mi. heated 425° F. [220° C.] oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until
the bread is golden brown and the sugar and butter have
salt melted together. Serve the bread hot or cold.
24 tbsp. butter(% lb. [l/3 kg.]), softened 360 mi. NICOLE VIELFAURE AND A. CHRISTINE BEAUVIALA
F~TES, COUTUMES ET GATEAUX
4 egg yolks, beaten 4
3 eggs, 1 beaten separately 3
3 tbsp. superfine sugar 45 mi.
Ulm Bread
Stir the yeast into the tepid milk. Add one third of the flour UlmerBrot
and leave the mixture in a warm place until well risen, about To make four or five 8-inch [20-cm.]
one hour. Sift the rest of the flour into a bowl. Stir in the
cylindrical loaves
lemon peel, salt, the remaining milk, the butter, egg yolks
and two eggs. Blend in the yeast mixture. Knead the dough 12 cups flour (3 lb. [1 Y2 kg. ]) 3 liters
for 10 minutes, until it is fairly stiff and bubbles appear in it. three packages active dry yeast or three
Divide the dough into about 36 pieces, and roll each into a %oz. three 3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast 7% g.
strip 12 inches [30 em.] long and the thickness of a finger.
Shape the dough strips into pretzels and lay them on three about tepid milk about
buttered baking sheets. Cover the pretzels and let them rise 3 cups %liter
in a warm place for about 30 minutes. Brush the pretzels 8 tbsp. butter 120 mi.
with the remaining beaten egg and bake in a preheated
350° F. [180° C.] oven for 20 minutes, or until golden brown. 1 cup sugar
Sprinkle the pretzels with sugar while they cool on racks. Y3 cup fi nely diced candied lemon peel 75 mi.
SOPHIE WILHELMINE SCHEIBLER
ALLGEMEINES DEUTSCHES KOCHBUCH FOR ALLE STANDE anise seeds
fennel seeds
2 tbsp. vani lla sugar or 1 tsp. 30ml.
Sugar Flatbread [5 mi.] vanilla extract
Tarte au Sucre egg, beaten
To make one 10-inch [25-cm.] round flatbread Stir the yeast into the tepid milk and leave the mixture in a
2 cups flour %liter warm place for about 10 minutes. Add the flour, butter, sug-
ar, lemon peel, a pinch each of anise and fennel, and the
package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 7Y2 g. vanilla sugar or vanilla extract to make a firm dough. Add
[18 g.] cake fresh yeast more milk if necessary. Knead the dough well, cover, and let
1 tbsp. sugar, dissolved in 7 tbsp. [105 mi.] 15ml. it rise in a warm place until doubled in volume- about one
tepid milk and a half hours.
Divide the dough into four or five equal portions. Shape
salt each portion into a cylindrical loaf. With a sharp knife or a
9 tbsp. butter, 7 tbsp. [ 105 mi.] melted and 135 mi. razor blade, make a long gash down the center of each loaf.
cooled until tepid Butter two or three baking sheets and place the loaves on
them; let the loaves rise for 20 minutes. Then brush the
2 eggs 2 loaves with beaten egg, but do not brush the egg into the
7 tbsp. brown sugar 105 mi. gashes. Bake in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven for 40
minutes, or until the loaves sound hollow when rapped.
Mix the yeast with the sugared milk and leave it in a warm HANS KARL ADAM
place until it foams, about 10 minutes. Sift the flour into a DAS KOCHBUCH AUS SCHWABEN

123
FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

Saffron Christmas Wreath the cherries at intervals around the ring. Cover the wreath
carefully with wax paper and place it in a warm spot until
To make one 14-inch [35-cm.] wreath the dough has doubled in size, about one hour.
about flour about Bake the wreath in a preheated 375° F. [190° C.] oven for
4 cups 1 liter 45 minutes, or until a wooden toothpick inserted into the
wreath comes out clean. Remove the wreath and ball from
y4 oz. package active dry yeast or lY2 g. the oven, and cool them on the baking sheet for 15 minutes
3/s
oz. [18 g.] coke fresh yeast before transferring them to a wire rack for further cooling.
Y4 cup tepid water 50 mi. Slip them off the baking sheet gently so the wreath does not
break. When the wreath and ball are cool and firm, place
1 cup milk or half-and-half cream Y4 liter them on a circular cake board.
8 tbsp. butter, softened 120 mi. BERNARD CLAYTON JR.
THE COMPLETE BOOK OF BREADS
1 tbsp. ground saffron 15ml.
1 egg, beaten 1
Y4 cup sugar 50 mi.
1 cup raisins, soaked in hot water for % liter Christmas Bread
15 minutes and drained
Vortlimpor
1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
The original version ofthis recipe calls for Swedish malt beer,
1 egg, beaten with 1 tbsp. [15 mi.] milk 1 a beverage similar to stout, an easily obtainable substitute.
To make three 10-inch [25-cm .]
Almond and cherry topping
cylindrical loaves
Y2 cup almonds, blanched and slivered 125 mi.
6 cups rye flour 1 1/2 liters
3 tbsp. sugar 45 mi.
3 cups all-purpose flou r 3/4 liter
3 candied cherries, halved 3
three cokes fresh yeast three
3/s oz. 18 g.
Stir the yeast into the water and set it aside. In a saucepan,
warm the milk or half-and-half cream with the butter; when 4 tbsp. tepid wa ter 60 mi.
the butter has melted, remove the pan from the heat and cool 1 tbsp. sugar 15m l.
the mixture to tepid. Stir in the saffron.
Pour the milk mixture and the yeast mixture into a large 4 tbsp. lord o r butter 60 mi.
bowl and stir in the egg, the sugar and half of the flour. Mix 3 cups stout 3f4 liter
well. Add the raisins, and continue to stir vigorously until
the dough is thick and glossy. 1 cup molasses 280 mi.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and let the dough rise plus
in a warm place until it has doubled in bulk, about one hour. 2 tbsp.
Add the rest of the flour and the salt, and knead them in to 1 tsp. salt 5m l.
make a firm dough. Turn the dough out onto a floured board, 1/ 2
and continue kneading until the dough is firm and elastic, 2 cups chopped candied orange peel liter
about 10 minutes. 2 tbsp. ground anise seeds or fennel seeds 30 mi.
Roll and press the dough into a 27-inch [70-cm.] cylinder.
Cut off a 3-inch [8-cm.] piece and reserve it for the center of Mix the yeast with 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of t he water and
the wreath. On an oiled baking sheet, fashion the cylinder the sugar. Melt the fat, add the stout and heat them to luke-
into a large ring by joining the ends and pinching them warm. Pour the fat and stout into a bowl, a dd 1 cup[ % liter]
firmly together. With scissors, cut the ring at 1h-inch [1-cm.] of the molasses and half of each of the flours. Mix well. Then
intervals-cutting about two thirds of the way through the add the yeast mixture, salt, candied peel, ground seeds, the
cylinder- and turn the slices alternately to the left and to rest of the rye flour and all but 1 cup of the all-purpose flour.
the right. Pat the ring into shape. The center space should be Beat the dough until smooth a nd firm. Cover it with a towel
about 6 inches [15 em.] a cross. Roll the 3-inch reserved piece and let it rise in a warm place until almost doubled in bulk.
of dough into a ball and place it in the center space. Flatten Put the dough on a floured pastry board and knead it
the ball slightly, but be certain there is clea r space between with the reserved all-purpose flour until firm a nd glossy.
the ring and the ball because both will expand during the Shape the dough into three cylindrical loaves. Place them on
rising and baking processes. buttered baking sh eets a nd cover with a cloth. Let them rise
Brush the ring and t he ball with the egg-and-milk mix- for about 30 minutes. Prick the loaves with a toothpick and
ture, sprinkle them with the a lmonds and sugar, and place bake at 350° F. [180° C.] for 30 to 40 minutes, or until golden
12 4
brown. When they are half-done, brush them with a glaze Viennese Braided Loaf
made by mixing the remaining water and molasses. Brush
the loaves again with the glaze when they are done. Place Striezel
them between cloths while cooling to keep the crusts soft. The technique ofbraiding a loaf is demonstrated on pages 22-
SAM WIDENFELT (EDITOR) 23. Coarse sugar is obtainable from bakery-supply stores and
FAVORITE SWEDISH RECIPES some gourmet-food specialty stores.
To make one I0-inch [25-cm. ] braided loaf
4 cups flour 1 liter
Bremen Christmas Bread %oz. package active dry yeast or 7Y2 g.
3/s oz. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast
Bremer Klaben
This bread is a variety of the German sweet loaf called a Y3 cup sugar 75 mi.
stollen, popular from Alsace to Czechoslovakia. 1% cups tepid milk 300 mi.
To make one 14-inch [35-cm. ] loaf Y4 tsp. salt 1 mi.
9 cups flour 2Y4 liters 7 tbsp. butter, softened 105 mi.
three packages active dry yeast or three three 2 egg yolks 2
Y4 oz. 3fs oz. [18 g .] cakes fresh yeast 7 % g.
egg
Y2 tsp. salt 2ml.
2 tsp. grated lemon peel 10 mi.
2 cups tepid milk % liter
%cup raisins, soaked in hot water for 15 175 mi.
20 tbsp. butter, melted and cooled to tepid 300 mi. minutes and drained
3 cups raisins, soaked in hot w ater for % liter egg white, lightly beaten
15 minutes and drained
blanched, slivered almonds or coarse
2Y4 cups dried currants, soaked in hot water for 550 mi. sugar (optional)
15 minutes and drained
1 cup chopped ca ndied citrus peel Y4 liter Mix the yeast and 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of the sugar with ~
cup [50 ml.] of the tepid milk; let the mixture stand for about
2 tsp. grated lemon peel 10 mi. 10 minutes in a warm place until it foams. To make the
Y2 tsp. ground cinnamon 2ml. dough, combine the flour, the yeast mixture, the remaining
sugar and milk, the salt, butter, egg yolks, whole egg and
Y2 tsp. ground cloves 2ml. lemon peel. Knead well on a floured board for about 10 min-
Y2 tsp. ground cardamom 2ml. utes to make a firm dough, then incorporate the raisins and
knead for a further five minutes. Cover the dough and let it
Y2 tsp. ground mace 2ml. rise in a warm place for about one and a half hours, or until
semolina doubled in bulk.
Divide the dough into nine pieces and roll out the pieces
Mix the yeast with% cup [150 ml.] of the milk. Put the flour into cylinders of equal length, but of three different widths:
and salt in a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center, three pieces the thickness of two fingers, three pieces the
pour in the yeast mixture and the remaining milk and mix to thickness of one finger and three pieces half the thickness of
make a dough. Knead the dough for 10 minutes, then leave it a finger. Braid each of the three sets of dough. Brush the top
in a warm place to rise until it has doubled in bulk, about one of the medium-thick braid with egg white, and lay the thin-
and a half hours. Knead the butter gradually into the dough, nest braid on top of it, making sure the two braids stick
work in the r emaining ingredients except the semolina, and firmly together. Then brush the top of the thickest braid
knead for about five minutes. Let the dough rise again for with egg white and lay the assembled thin and medium
two to three hours, until doubled in bulk. braids on top of the thick one.
Flatten the dough with your hands to make a thick rec- Place the resulting loaf on a buttered-and-floured baking
tangle about 14 by 12 inches [35 by 30 em.]. Seal the ends sheet and let it rise for one and a half hours in a warm place,
firmly and taper them to make the traditional stollen shape. or until doubled in bulk. Glaze the whole loaf with egg white
Dust a baking sheet with semolina, place the loaf on it and, if you like, sprinkle with slivered almonds or coarse
and let it rise for about 30 minutes, until doubled in bulk. sugar. Bake the braid in a preheated 400° F . [200° C.] oven
Bake in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for 50 minutes to for one hour, or until a skewer inserted into the center of the
one hour, or until the loaf sounds hollow when rapped. bottom braid comes out clean.
MARIA ELISABETH STRAUB OLGA HESS AND ADOLF FR. HESS
GRONEN AAL UND RODE GROTT WIENER KOCHE

125
FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

Butter Cake yeast and water, add ';4 cup [50 ml.] of the flour, the butter-
and-milk mixture, ';4 cup of the sugar and the salt. Beat the
Butterkuchen egg and ';4 cup of flour into this batter, then add the rest of
To make one 20-by-16-inch the flour to make a stiff dough. Turn the dough out onto a
[50-by-40-cm.] coke floured surface and knead it until it is smooth-about 10
minutes. Return the dough to the bowl. Melt the remaining
4 cups flour 1 liter butter and use half of it to brush the top ofthe dough. Let the
package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 7% g. dough rise until doubled in bulk-about one hour.
[18 g.] ca ke fresh yeast Punch the dough down, and let it rise for 45 minutes.
Punch it down, turn it out onto a lightly floured board and
¥3 cup tepid milk 150m!. roll it into a 9-by-18-inch [23-by-45-cm.] rectangle about V2
6 egg yolks 6 inch [1 em.] thick. Brush the top with the rest of the butter.
14 tbsp. butter, softened
Combine the nuts and the remaining sugar, then sprin-
210m!.
kle half of this mixture over the dough. Roll the dough up
%cup sugar 50 mi. from one long side, as for a jelly roll, and seal the edge after
moistening it with a little water. Cut the cylinder into slices
Chopped almond topping 1 inch [2~ em.] thick, sprinkle the rest of the sugar-nut
egg, beaten mixture onto the kneading surface, place each slice of dough
on it and flatten it lightly with a rolling pin to make a 3-inch
1 cup almonds, blanched and finely chopped Y4 liter [7 -em.] round. Turn the flattened roll over and press it into
2 tbsp. coarse sugar 30 mi. the sugar and nuts, so the top and bottom are well coated.
Butter two baking sheets and place the rolls on them
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi. carefully. Cover the rolls and let them rise in a warm place
for about 30 minutes. Bake in a preheated 375° F. [190° C.]
Mix the yeast with the milk and 2~ cups [625 ml.] of the oven for about 10 minutes, or until the rolls are brown.
flour; let this sponge rise for two hours in a warm place until GRACE FIRTH
doubled in bulk. Add the remaining flour, the egg yolks, STILLROOM COOKERY
butter and sugar. Knead well for about 10 minutes, then let
rise for 30 minutes. Roll out the dough to fit a 20-by-16-inch
[50-by-40-cm.]jelly-roll pan. Lay it in the well-buttered pan,
brush it with the beaten egg, sprinkle it with the almonds
and coarse sugar and dot it with the butter. Bake in a pre- Nut Roll
heated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for 45 minutes, or until golden. Strucla Droidzowa i Masq Orzechowq
DOROTHEE V. HELLERMANN
DAS KOCHBUCH AUS HAMBURG To make one 8-inch [20-cm.] rolled loaf
2 Y4 cups flour 550 mi.
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7Y2 g.
one 3/s oz. [18 g .] cake fresh yeast
Crispies
6 tbsp. granulated sugar 90 mi.
To make 24 rolls
8 tbsp. butter, softened and cut into pieces 120 mi.
3 cups flour %liter
2 tbsp. tepid milk 30 mi.
y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. l Y2 g.
[18 g.] cake fresh yeast beaten egg yolk or milk (optional)
%cup tepid water 50 mi. confectioners' sugar
7 tbsp. butter, softened 105 mi. Nut filling
Y4 cup milk 50 mi.
1 cup granulated sugar Y4 liter
%cup sugar 175 mi.
¥3 cup water 150 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi. 14 oz. w alnuts or hazelnuts, finely ground in 400 g.
1 egg, beaten a nut grinder or a food processor
operated in short spurts
%cup finely chopped nuts 125 mi.
1 tbsp. butter 15 ml.
In a bowl, mix the yeast with the water. Meanwhile, in a
heavy saucepan, warm 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of the butter in Mix the flour and granulated sugar on a pastry board; work
the milk until the butter melts; cool to lukewarm. To the in the butter with your finger tips. Mix the yeast with the
126
tepid milk and let it stand for 10 minutes. Using your hands, until they are well incorporated. Put the dough in an earth-
work the yeast into the butter-and-flour mixture. Knead the enware bowl, cover, and let it rest for about one hour.
dough for 10 minutes, until smooth and elastic, then let it Shape the dough into small balls, each about 1llz inches
rise, covered, in a warm place for about one hour. [3 em.] across. Place the balls on lightly oiled baking sheets.
To make the filling, bring t he sugar and water to a boil Bake in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven for 35 to 40 min-
and simmer them over very low heat for eight to 10 minutes. utes, or until the buns are golden brown. Cool before serving.
Stir the nuts into this syrup and remove it from the heat. Stir CHRISTIANE SCHAPIRA
in the butter; when it dissolves, let the mixture cool. LA CUISINE CORSE
Roll out the dough into a recta ngle about 10 by 8 inches
[25 by 20 em.] and about liz inch [1 em.] thick . Spread the
filling over it, leaving a margin of about 1 inch [2Y2 em.] at
the edges. Roll up the dough like a jelly roll and, if desired, Russian Easter Bread
brush it with beaten egg yolk or milk. Butter and flour a Koulich
baking sheet and put the roll on it. Cover the roll with a cloth
and let it rise for up to one hour, or until doubled in bulk. To make confectioners'-sugar icing, sift 1 cup [14 liter] of
Bake the roll in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven for 10 confectioners' sugar and stir into it 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of
minutes, t hen reduce the heat to 400° F. [200° C.] and bake milk or light cream and liz teaspoon [2 ml.] of vanilla extract.
for 20 minutes, or until a pale golden color. Let the roll cool To make two 7-inch [18-cm.] cylindrical loaves
and sprinkle with confectioners' sugar.
LILI KOWALSKA 8 to sifted flour 2 to
COOKING THE POLISH WAY 9 cups 2% liters
two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast o r two two 7% g.
3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast
1Y2 cups tepid milk 375 mi.
8 tbsp. butter, melted 120 mi.
Corsican Raisin and Walnut Buns Y2 cup sugar 125 mi.
U Pan di i Morti o "Uga Siccati" Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
To make about 70 buns 2 tbsp. brandy 30 mi.
13 cups flour 3Y4 liters 1 tsp. vanilla extract 5 mi.
three packages active dry yeast o r three three Y2 cup tepid water 125 mi.
%oz. 3/s oz. [ 18 g.] cokes fresh yeast 7Y2 g.
2 eggs, beaten 2
4 cups raisins, soaked in hot water for 1 liter
15 minutes and drained Y2 cup almonds, blanched and slivered 125 mi.
4 cups chopped walnuts 1 liter 1 cup mixed candied pineapple and Y4 liter
cherries, dusted with flour
Y4 cup tepid water 50 mi.
Y2 cup white raisins, soaked in hot wa ter for 125 mi.
16 tbsp. butter (Y2 lb. [Y4 kg.]), softened 240 mi. 15 minutes and d rained
4 eggs 4
To the milk, add the butter, sugar, salt, brandy and vanilla
1 to salt 5 to extract. Mix th e yeast with the tepid water; add to the milk
1% tsp. 7ml. mixture. Stir in th e eggs and 4 cups [1 liter] of t he flour.
2 cups sugar Y2 liter Cover a nd let this sponge rise in a warm place until doubled
in bulk (about one hour). On a pastry board, place the rest of
2 tsp. grated lemon peel 10ml. the flour in a ring about the size of a dinner plate. Pour the
1 tbsp. o il 15ml. sponge into the center of the ring; knead t he flour into t he
sponge. Knead in the almonds and fruits. Butter two empty
Mix th e yeast with the tepid water. Make a sponge by a dding 3-pound shortening cans or two 2-pound coffee cans. Place
a bout % cup [175 ml.] of the flour to the yeast. Cover the half of the dough in each can. Cover; let th e dough rise in
sponge and let it rise in a warm place for about two hours. a warm place until it reaches the tops of the cans. Bake in a
Pour th e rest of the flour onto a work surface. Make a well preheated 375° F. [190° C.] oven for 40 minutes, or until
in the center and add the butter, eggs, salt, sugar a nd grated a skewer inserted in the center of the bread comes out clean.
lemon peel. Knead the mixture into a dough, and then add The bread m ay be topped with confectioners'-sugar icing.
the yeast sponge. Knead the dough for 10 minutes, or until THE JUNIOR LEAGUE OF TAMPA
smooth and elastic. Add the raisins and walnuts a nd knead THE GASPARILLA COOKBOOK

127
FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

Marston Buns well. Cover the dough with a clot h and leave it in a warm
place until the mixture is spongy-about one hour. Then
The book from which this recipe is taken was published in work in the butter or lard, the salt, the rest of the sugar, the
1694. Marston is a small town in northern England. raisins and the walnuts. Add the rest of the flour and knead
To make 35 to 40 buns well to make a stiff, smooth dough. Let the dough rise in a
warm place until doubled in bulk. Punch it down, then let it
10 cups flour 2% liters rise again until doubled in bulk.
two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast or two two 7Y2 g. Put the dough into a buttered 8%-by-4 '12-inch [21-by-11-
3
/s oz. [18 g. ] cakes fresh yeast cm.] loaf pan. Let it rise for about an hour. Bake the loaf in a
preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 15 minutes. Then reduce
16 tbsp. butter ( Y2 lb. [% kg.]) 240 mi. the heat to 375° F. [190° C.]. The original recipe said to bake
2Y2 cups tepid milk 625 mi. the bread for 50 minutes to one hour, but it often takes only
5 eggs, beaten 5
30 minutes, so be careful. The loafis ready when it is golden
brown and sounds hollow when rapped on t he bottom.
1 cup sugar Y4 liter ANNA G. EDMONDS (EDITOR)
AN AMERICAN COOK IN TURKEY
2 cups dried currants, soaked in hot water Y2 liter
for 15 minutes and drained, o r 2 tbsp.
[30 mi.] caraway seeds
freshly grated nutmeg
A Rich Scotch Bun
Rub the butter into the flour. Mix the yeast with the tepid
milk, add the eggs and set aside for 10 minutes, or until the Scotch bun, also called black bun, is said to have been intro-
yeast has begun to work. Add the mixture to the flour, and duced to Scotland from Italy in the 16th Century. Once tradi-
let the dough rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. Work in tionally served on Twelfth Night (January 6), the bun is now
the sugar, currants or caraway seeds, and grated nutmeg to baked for Hogmanay (New Y ear's Eve). This version is
taste, and knead well. Then put pieces of dough into buttered adapted from the 1841 edition of Mrs. R undell's book , first
muffin-pan cups, or shape the pieces into balls and place published in 1806.
them on buttered-and-floured baking sheets. Let rise for 30 To make one 10-inch [25-cm . ] bun
minutes and bake in a preheated 350° F . [180° C.] oven for 20
minutes, or until golden brown on top. 8 cups flou r 2 liters
THE RECEIPT BOOK OF ANN BLENCOWE two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast or two two 7 % g.
3/s oz. [ 18 g .] cakes fresh yeast
2 cups tepid water Y2 liter
Ground Raisin Nut Bread 24 tbsp. (3
butter .4 lb. (Y3 kg.]), cut into pieces 360 mi.
This recipe was written by Anne Glass, who compiled the first 2 tsp. salt 10ml.
edition of"An American Cook in Turkey." 1 tsp. whole allspice 5 mi.
To make one 8 h-by-4 h-inch 1 tsp. peeled and chopped fresh ginger root 5 mi.
[21-by-11 -cm. ] loaf
3 o r4 whole cloves 3 or 4
2 cups flour, sifted Y2 liter
%cup chopped candied orange peel 175 mi.
y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7% g.
3
/s oz. [18 g .] cake fresh yeast %cup chopped candied lemon peel 175 mi.
%cup raisins, ground or finely chopped 175 mi. %cup chopped blanched almonds 175 mi.
Y2 cup chopped walnuts 125 mi. 4 cups raisins, soaked in hot water for 1 liter
15 minutes and dra ined
1 Y2 cu ps tepid water 375 mi.
4 cups dried currants, soaked in hot water for 1 liter
Y3 cup sugar 75 mi.
15 minutes and drained
6 tbsp. butter or lard, cut into pieces 90 mi. Y2 tsp. grated nutmeg 2 mi.
2 tsp. salt 10ml.
Mix the yeast with the water. Mix it with t he flour and salt,
Mix the yeast with the water and 1 teaspoon [5 ml.] of the using your hands to work it in, until all of the ingredients are
sugar. Cover and let t he mixture stand in a warm place until moist. Turn the dough out onto a floured board, mix in the
foaming-about 10 minutes. In a large bowl, combine 1% butter and knead for about 15 minutes, unt il the dough is
cups [375 ml.] of the flour with the yeast mixture and mix smooth and elastic. Put it into a warmed bowl, cover it and
128
leave it in a warm place until doubled in bulk-about two drained raisins. Mix the yeast with half of the tepid milk and
hours. To make the flavoring, pound the allspice, ginger and stir the mixture until it is smooth. Allow it to stand in a
cloves together in a mortar. Mix the spices with the chopped warm place for 10 minutes. Add a pinch of salt to the butter-
peels and add the almonds, raisins, currants and nutmeg. and-egg mixture and stir in the yeast, flour and milk. Beat
Punch down the dough and knead it briefly until the air very well with a wooden spoon until the dough develops
has been expelled. Slice off one third of the dough and re- bubbles and looks smooth and glossy, about 15 minutes. But-
serve it. Flatten the larger piece of dough into a round about ter and flour a 10-inch [25-cm.] brioche mold and stick sli-
1 inch [2'h em.] thick. Sprinkle the flavoring mixture onto vered almonds against the fluted sides for decoration. Put in
the dough. Then fold the dough over the flavoring, and the dough and let it rise in a warm place until it has doubled
knead well until the flavoring is evenly distributed. in bulk, 30 to 40 minutes. Bake in a preheated 425° F . [220°
Lightly flour a work surface and roll out the remaining C.] oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 375° F. [190° C.]
dough into a sheet 14 inch [6 mm.] thick and large enough to and bake for 40 to 50 minutes longer. Let the cake cool and
encase the fruit dough. Turn the sheet of dough over and sprinkle it with confectioners' sugar.
place the fruit dough in the center. Pull the plain dough LILI KOWALSKA
around the fruit dough, folding any excess plain dough into COOKING THE POLISH WAY
pleats on top of the bun. Press the pleats together firmly and
turn the bun over. Gently flatten the bun until it is about
3 inches [8 em.] thick. With a long needle, pierce the bun
through to the bottom all over, to allow steam to escape
during cooking. Lay the bun on a buttered-and-f loured bak- Fruit Bread
ing sheet. To ensure that the bun keeps its shape, encircle it
with the hoop of a spring-form cake pan or with a ring of stiff Birewecke
cardboard covered with foil. The hoop or ring should be larg- This recipe comes from the Sitter bakery in Colmar. Fruit
er than the bun to allow for expansion during cooking. bread is traditionally eaten at Christmas and is best made a
Bake the bun in a preheated 375° F. [190° C.] oven for one week in advance. Serve in thin slices.
hour, then remove the hoop or ring to let the sides of the bun To make 3 small cylindrical loaves
brown. Bake for 30 minutes, until the bun is golden brown.
MRS. MARIA ELIZA RUNDELL 1 Y2 cups flour 375 mi.
A NEW SYSTEM OF DOMESTIC COOKERY
6 oz. basic bread dough (recipe, page 164) 175 g.
2 cups dried pear halves Y2 liter
1 cup dried apples %liter
Yeast Coffeecake
Babka Drozdiowa
3
/4 cup pitted dried prunes 175 mi.
3
The following is a traditional Polish recipe. The name babka, /4 cup chopped dried figs 175 mi.
or grandmother, may have been given to it because the brioche 2 cups chopped mixed candied fruit peel
mold the dough is baked in resembles a woman's wide skirts. Y2 liter
1 cup raisins %liter
To make one 10-inch [25-cm. ] coffeecake
7 tbsp. kirsch 105 mi.
4 cups flour 1 liter
1% cups shelled walnuts 425 mi.
%oz. package active dry yeast or
3/s
oz. [18 g.] coke fresh yeast 1 cup almonds, blanched Y4 liter
10 tbsp. butter 150 mi. 4 tbsp. ground cinnamon 60ml.
6 tbsp. sugar 90 mi. 1 cup sugar % liter
3 egg yolks 3 Boil the dried pears, apples and prunes for about 20 minutes
%cup seedless white raisins, soaked in hot 175 mi. to soften them; drain and cut them into large pieces. Mix
water for 15 minutes and drained them with the figs and mixed peel, add the raisins and let the
fruits steep overnight in the kirsch. The next day, add most
sa lt of the walnuts and almonds, reserving a few for decorating
%cup tepid milk 150 mi. the loaves, and mix in the cinnamon. Then stir in the sugar.
Work this mixture into the bread dough, then work in the
%cup slivered almonds 50 mi. flour. Shape into three cylindrical loaves, place them on but-
confectio ners' sugar tered baking sheets and decorate with the reserved nuts.
Bake in a preheated 375° F . [190° C.] oven for 30 to 40 min-
Cream the butter until it is soft and then work in the sugar. utes, or until a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean.
Continue stirring and a dd the egg yolks, one by one. Add the FOOD AND WINES FROM ALSACE, FRANCE

129
FLAVORED YEAST BREADS

whites with the rest of th e rose water. Strain the egg-and-

Walnut Loaf rose-water mixture through a sieve into the flour. Add the
Pain aux Noix dissolved yeast and knead th e mixture into a firm dough .
Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured board and roll it
This bread should be eaten when a few days old, thinly sliced
out thin, about ~ inch [1 em.] thick. Cut it into about 40
and spread with butter, honey or jam. It is perfect with tea.
diamond-shaped pieces, and place them on buttered baking
To make one 7 Y2-by-3 Y2-inch sheets. Bake the cakes in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven
[19-by-9-cm .] loaf for 15 to 20 minutes, or until they are golden brown. Remove
2 cups flour Y2 liter them from the baking sheets to cool.
THE NEW LONDON COOKERY AND COMPLETE DOMESTIC GUIDE
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7% g.
3/s oz. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast

1 cup tepid milk Y4 liter

1 egg, beaten
Philadelphia Cinnamon Buns
1 cup suga r % liter To make 14 buns
% liter 3 to fl our 750 to
1 cup chopped walnuts
3 Y2 cups 875 mi.
salt
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast 7Y2 g.
In a bowl, mix the yeast with the tepid milk. Stir in the Y4 cup tepid water 50 mi.
beaten egg. Add the sugar, flour, walnuts and a pinch of salt, about
about suga r
and stir the dough vigorously with a spoon for 10 minutes or 125 mi.
so. Transfer the mixture to a buttered 7~-by-3~-inch [19- Y2 cup
by-9-cm.] loaf pan and let rise in a warm place for 30 min- Y2 tsp . salt 2 mi.
utes. Bake in a preheated 375° F. [190° C.] oven for about 40 2
2 egg yolks
minutes, or until golden brown.
ZETIE GUINAUDEAU-FRANC 1 cup tepid milk Y4 liter
LES SECRETS DES FERMES EN PERIGORD NOIR
6 tbsp. butter, melted 90ml.
1 Y2 cups light brown suga r 375 mi.
Y2 cup light corn syrup 125 mi.
Hunting Bread
Y2 cup seedless raisins 125 mi.
This recipe is from an anonymously written cookbook pub-
lished in about 1827. A lthough the book is an excellent and 2 tsp. g round cinnamon 10 mi.
comp rehensive work, it was never republished, and the au-
thor's identity has never been discovered. Rose water is a Pour the tepid water into a bowl and sprinkle the yeast and
flavoring produced in the Balkans, the Middle East and 1 teaspoon [q ml.] of the sugar over it. Let it stand for two or
India by distilling the oil of rose petals; it is obtainable from three minutes, then stir well. Set in a warm place for five
pharmacies and specialty food stores. minutes, or until the yeast bubbles up.
Combine 3 cups [% liter] of t he flour,~ cup [125 ml.] of
To make about 40 cakes sugar and the salt in a bowl, and make a well in the center.
6 cups flour, sifted 1 Y2 liters Add the yeast mixture, egg yolks and t epid milk. With a
7Y2 g. large spoon, slowly mix the ingredients, and continue to stir
y4 oz. package active dry yeast o r 3/s oz.
until the dough is smooth and can be gathered into a ball.
[18 g.] coke fresh yeast
Place the ball on a lightly floured surface and knead it.
2 cups sugar Y2 liter As you knead, sprinkle flour over t he ball by the spoonful,
5 o r 10 mi. adding up to ~ cup more flour, if necessary , to make a firm
1 or 2 tsp. caraway seeds
dough. Continue to knead for 10 minutes, or until the dough
1 or 2 tsp. coriander seeds 5 or 10 mi. is smooth, shiny and elastic. Place the ball in a buttered bowl
tepid rose water 175 mi. a nd turn the ball around to butter its entire surface. Drape
% cup
the bowl with a kitchen towel and put it in t he warm place
6 egg yolks, lightly beaten 6 for about one hour, or until doubled in volume.
4 egg whites 4 In a small bowl, mix % cup [175 ml.] oflight brown sugar,
2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the melted butter and the corn
Mix the flour, sugar, and caraway and coriander seeds, as syrup to a smooth paste. Pour t he mixt ure into two 9-inch
many as may be thought proper. Mix the yeast with ~cup [23-cm.] cake pans, tipping the pans back and forth to spread
[125 ml.] of the tepid rose water. Beat the egg yolks a nd egg it evenly. In another bowl, stir t he remaining% cup of light

130
brown sugar, the raisins and cinnamon together until they sugar, the caraway seeds and a good pinch of nutmeg, and
are well blended. Set aside. beat to form a fairly moist dough. Beat the dough for about
Punch the dough down and, on a lightly floured surface, 10 minutes, cover it with a cloth and set it in a warm place to
roll it out into an 18-by-10-inch [45-by-25-cm.] rectangle rise for one hour, or until doubled in bulk.
about 14 inch [6 mm.] thick. Brush the dough with 2 table- When the dough is well risen, transfer it to a deep, well-
spoons of the melted butter and sprinkle it evenly with the buttered baking pan or dish about 16 by 10 inches [40 by 25
sugar-and-raisin mixture. em.] a nd bake it in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 45
Starting at one long side, roll the dough tightly into a to 50 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the center of
cylinder about 18 inches [45 em.] long and 2'h inches [6 em.] the bread comes out clean.
in diameter. Then, with a sh arp knife, slice the cylinder MRS. DALGAIRNS
crosswise into 14 rounds about 114 inches [3 em.] thick. Place THE PRACTISE OF COOKERY
one slice cut side up in the center of each sugar-lined cake
pan, and arrange the remaining slices in circles of six around
each center slice. Set the buns aside in the draft-free place
for about 45 minutes, or until they double in volume. Chocolate Rolls
Preheat the oven to 350° F. [180° C.]. (If you have u sed Petit Pains au Chocolat
the oven to let the buns rise, gently transfer them to a warm
place to rest while the oven heats.) Brush the tops of the buns To make 8 rolls
with the remaining 2 tablespoons of melted butter and bake 2 cups bread flour Y2 liter
in the middle of the oven for about 25 minutes, or until they
are golden brown. Place a wire cake rack over each pan and, package active d ry yeast or 3/s oz. 7% g.
grasping rack and pan together firmly , quickly invert them. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast
Let the cinnamon buns cool to lukewarm before serving. 1 tsp. salt 5ml.
FOODS OF THE WORLD/AMERICAN COOKING: THE EASTERN HEARTLAND
about tepid milk about
Y3 cup 75 mi.
tepid water 75 mi.
4 oz. semisweet baking chocolate, broken 125 g.
Irish Spice Bread into 8 equal pieces
Bairn Brack
Milk-and-sugar glaze
This is an 1829 version ofa spice bread better known as barm
brack or barmbrack (barm meaning homemade yeast). Once 2 tsp. milk 10 mi.
popular throughout the British Isles, the bread is now eaten 2 tbsp. sugar 30 mi.
chiefly on the Isle of Man and in Ireland. The author of this
recipe recommends toasting the bread if it is not eaten imme- Sift the salt into the flour. Dissolve the yeast in the tepid
diately after baking. · milk and water, and leave it for 10 minutes. Pour the yeast
To make one 16-by-1 0-inch mixture into the flour and mix lightly. If the dough is too
[40-by-25-cm.] bread stiff, add a little milk. Let the dough rise in a warm place.
When the dough h as doubled in volume, punch it down,
12 cups flour, sifted 3 liters knead it very little, divide it in half, then in quarters, then in
three packages active dry yeast or three three eight hs. Roll or pat out each piece on a floured board into a
y4 oz. 3/s
oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yea st 7Y2 g. rectangle large enough to fit around a piece of chocolate.
Center a piece of chocolate on each rectangle. Fold over the
2Y2 cups tepid milk 625 mi. ends, then the sides, to make neat parcels. Press the seams
2% cups brown sugar 675 mi. carefully together a nd brush the rolls with milk. Leave them
32 tbsp. butter (1 lb. [Y2 kg.])
on a floured baking sheet to recover their shape and volume;
480 mi.
about 15 to 20 minutes should be sufficient.
8 eggs, well beaten 8 Bake the rolls in a preheated 400° to 425° F. [200° to 220°
6 tbsp. caraway seeds 90 mi.
C.] oven for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Dissolve
the sugar for the glaze in the milk, and brush the tops as soon
grated nutmeg as the rolls are removed from the oven to make them shiny.
Chocolate rolls should be eaten warm, either immediate-
Mix the yeast with % cup [150 ml.] of the tepid milk and 1 ly after they are cooked or after they are reheated for a few
teaspoon [5 ml.] of the brown sugar, and leave the mixture in minutes on the bottom shelf of a cool oven. The chocolate
a warm place until foaming, about 10 minutes. Over very inside the roll must be just melting.
low heat, dissolve the butter in the remaining milk, cool to ELIZABETH DAVID
tepid, then mix with the flour. Add the eggs, the rest of the ENGLISH BREAD AND YEAST COOKERY

131
YEAST PUFF BREADS

Bulgarian Cheese Bread

~ast ~uff ~reads

Tootmanik s Gotovo T esto
This typical Bulgarian bread is often made with lard instead
The recipe for a basic yeast puff dough appears of butter. The original version of the recipe calls for sirene
in Standard Preparations, page 166. cheese, the Bulgarian equivalent ofGreek feta cheese. Because
sirene cheese is unavailable in the United States, feta has
been substituted.
To make one 10 -by-8-inch [25-by-20-cm.] bread
1 lb. basic bread dough (recipe, page 164) Y2 kg.
Salted Crescent Rolls 10 tbsp. butter, melted a nd cooled to tepid 150 mi.
Sorkifli 3
3 eggs, lightly beaten
These savory rolls are traditionally eaten with beer.
Y2 lb. feta cheese, finely crumbled
To make 32 small rolls
1 liter Make the bread dough in the usual way and let it rise once.
4 cups flour
When it has risen, punch it down and divide it into nine
package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 7% g. pieces. Roll out each piece into a round about 8 inches [20
[18 g.] cake fresh yeast em.] across. Brush six of the dough rounds with half of the
1 Y4 to tepid milk 300to butter. Stack the buttered rounds in pairs, buttered sides
1% cups 425 mi. uppermost, then top each pair with an unbuttered round.
Roll out each dough "sandwich" to fit a 10-by-8-inch [25-by-
1 tsp. sugar 5 mi. 20-cm.] baking pan or dish.
1 tsp. salt 5 mi. Reserve half of the beaten eggs for brushing the top of the
bread, and mix the remainder with the crumbled cheese.
4 tbsp. butter, softened 60 mi. Butter a baking pan with 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the re-
egg yolk, beaten served butter. Place a sheet of dough in the pan, brush the
surface with butter and sprinkle it with half of the cheese-
Salted caraway topping and-egg mixture. Cover with another sheet of dough, brush
it with some more of the butter and sprinkle it with the
1 tsp. coarse salt, crushed 5 mi. remaining cheese-and-egg mixture to within lh inch [1 em.]
2 tbsp. caraway seeds 30 mi. of the edges. Put the third sheet of dough on top and brush it
with the rest of the butter. Gently press down the edges into
Start the yeast working with 3 or 4 tablespoons [45 or 60 ml.] the pan. Let the bread rise in a warm place for one to one and
of the milk, mixed with the sugar. Leave in a warm place a ha lf hours, or until it has more than doubled in bulk.
until the yeast foams on the surface of the milk, about 10 Bake the bread in the upper part of a preheated 350° F.
minutes. Pour the liquid into the flour, add the salt, and use [180° C.] oven for about 30 minutes. Remove the bread from
a wooden spoon to stir in enough of the remaining milk to the oven, brush the surface with the reserved beaten egg
make a rather soft dough. and bake for another 10 to 15 minutes, or until the crust is a
Work the dough thoroughly with the spoon, then knead it deep golden color and shiny. Serve the bread warm or cold,
with your hands-dusting them with flour, if necessary, to with tea or yogurt.
make the dough easier to handle. Divide the dough into four PENKAI. CHOLCHEVA
portions. Roll each portion into a thin round about 10 inches KNIGA ZA VSEKI DEN I VSEKI DOM
[25 em.] in diameter, and spread each round with the soft-
ened butter. Divide each round into eight wedges, and roll up
each of these triangular wedges, starting from the base of
the triangle. Bend the rolls slightly to form crescents, and
lay them on three buttered baking sheets, leaving plenty of
room between the crescents.
Let the crescents rise in a warm place for about two
hours, or until doubled in size. Then brush them with the
beaten egg yolk. Mix the caraway seeds with the coarse salt,
and sprinkle the crescents with the mixture. Bake the cres-
cents in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 10 to 15 min-
utes, or until they are golden brown.
FRED MACNICOL
HUNGARIAN COOKERY

132
 Danish Pastry sprinkle the yeast over the top; stir the yeast into the water
after a minute or so. Set aside the yeast mixture until frothy,
Wienerbrod about 15 minutes.
Add the beaten egg to the yeast liquid. In a large bowl,
In Denmark, this pastry is called Wienerbrod, or "Vienna
mix the flour, the teaspoon [5 ml.] of sugar and the salt. Rub
bread," reflecting its true origin. About 100 years ago, when
the bakers of Copenhagen went on strike, their employers re- the lard into the flour mixture, add the yeast-and-egg mix-
ture and mix to a soft dough. Put the dough on a floured
taliated by importing German and Austrian bakers. Vien-
board and knead it until it is smooth and elastic, about 10
nese pastry became so popular among the Danes that Danish
minutes. Place the dough in a lightly oiled plastic bag or
bakers adopted the Viennese method of folding cold butter
encase it in plastic wrap, and refrigerate it for 10 minutes.
into yeast dough, and they went on to modify the pastry by
filling it wit}tjam and other sweet mixtures. This new "Dan- With a narrow metal spatula, work the butter until it is
softened and shape it into a rectangle about 1;2 inch [1 em.]
ish pastry" was praised even in Austria.
If desired, the filling for the cockscombs may be flavored thick. On a floured work surface, roll out the dough approxi-
with 3 tablespoons [45 ml.] of thick applesauce or lemon cus- mately 10 inches [25 em.] square. Spread the butter down
the center of the square to within 1 inch [21;2 em.] of the
tard instead of with crushed almond macaroons.
edges. Fold the sides over the butter to overlap in the middle
To make 12 pastries by about ¥2 inch; seal the bottom and top. Roll out the dough
into a rectangle about 6 by 18 inches [15 by 45 em.]. Fold it
2 cups fl our Y2 liter evenly in three. Return the dough to the plastic bag or wrap,
package active dry yeast and Y2 tsp. 7Y2 g. and let it rest in the refrigerator for 10 minutes.
[2 mi.] sugar, or 3/s oz. [18 g.] cake Then return the dough to the floured work surface and
fresh yeast roll it out in the opposite direction. Repeat the rolling, fold-
tepid water 75 mi.
ing and resting processes twice more, ensuring that the
dough is rolled in a different direction each time. Return the
egg, beaten dough to the plastic bag or wrap, and refrigerate it overnight
1 tsp . sugar 5 mi. or for at least four hours. It will then be ready for use.
To make snails with raisin filling, roll out half of the
salt dough into a 6-by-15-inch [15-by-38-cm.] rectangle. Brush
2 tbsp. lard 30 mi. the two short ends with some of the beaten egg to make a l-
inch border at both ends. Cream the butter with the super-
10 tbsp. butter 150 mi. fine sugar and cinnamon. Spread this mixture on the dough
and sprinkle it with the raisins. Roll up the dough from one
Raisin filling short end to make a fat jelly-roll shape. Slice this roll into six
egg, beaten pieces and place them on a buttered baking sheet. Flatten
them slightly with your palm and brush them with beaten
2 tbsp. butter, softened 30 mi. egg. Let them rise in a warm place for 30 minutes, or until
2 tbsp. superfi ne sugar 30 mi. well risen, before baking.
1 tsp. ground cinnamo n 5 mi.
To make cockscombs with almond filling, roll out the rest
of the dough into an 8-by-12-inch [20-by-30-cm.] rectangle.
seed less white raisins, soaked in hot 50 mi. Slice the dough into six 4-inch [10-cm.] squares. Cream the
water for 15 minutes and drained butter with the superfine sugar and fold in the macaroons.
Place a little of this filling in the center of each square.
Almond filling Brush the rest of the surface ofthe dough square with a little
2 tbsp. butter, softened 30 mi. of the beaten egg, fold the square in half and make six to
eight incisions along the fold. Bend each "comb" so that the
2 tbsp. superfine sugar 30 mi. "teeth" fan out. Brush the combs with the rest of t he egg and
crushed almond macaroons 50 mi. scatter chopped a lmonds on them. Transfer the cockscombs
to a buttered baking sheet and let them rise for 20 to 30
egg, beaten minutes, or until well risen.
2 tbsp. almonds, blanched and chopped 30 mi. Bake the snails and cockscombs in a preheated 400° F.
[200° C.] oven for 10 minutes. Then reduce the heat to 350° F.
Sugar icing [180° C.] and bake for a further 10 to 15 minutes, or until the
Y3 cup confecti oners' sugar
pastries are golden brown. Cool the pastries on a wire rack.
75 mi.
To ice the snails while they are cooling, sift the confection-
1 tsp. water 5 mi. ers' sugar, blend in the water and beat the mixture until it is
smooth. Trickle the icing over the pastries.
Blend the fresh yeast into the tepid water. !fusing dry yeast, PAULINE VIOLA AND KNUD RAVNKILDE
dissolve 1;2 teaspoon [2 ml.] of sugar in the water and then COOKING WITH A DANISH FLAVOUR

133
YEAST PUFF BREADS

about Vs inch [3 mm.] thick. Cut the rectangle into 12 equi-

Filled Croissants, Viennese-Style lateral triangles with 6-inch [15-cm.] sides. Roll up each
Croissants Viennois Fourres triangle, starting from the base and rolling toward the apex;
Another method of making and shaping croissants is shown bend the ends slightly to make a crescent shape. Place the
on pages 44-46. The croissants can also be filled with jam, in croissants on lightly buttered baking sheets and let them
which case they are not iced, but glazed with egg yolk before rise. The time needed will depend on the temperature of the
baking and dusted with confectioners' sugar afterward. room-20 minutes will suffice in a warm place, several
hours in a cool one - or they may be refrigerated overnight.
To make 12 croissants Bake the croissants in a preheated 375° F. [190° C.] oven
4 cups flour 1 liter for 20 minutes, or until well risen and browned on the bot-
tom. Cool the croissants on wire racks. While they cool,
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 7Y2 g. make the filling. Mix the egg and egg yolks with the sugar,
3/s
oz. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast flour and ground almonds. Gradually add the milk, stirring
about tepid milk about constantly. Put the mixture in a pan and set it over low heat,
1 cup 1/4liter stirring constantly until the mixture begins to bubble. Re-
move the pan from the heat and stir in the butter. When the
14 tbsp. butter, softened 210 mi. butter has melted, let the filling cool. Split the croissants
1 tsp. salt Sml. lengthwise, fill them a nd sandwich them together again.
Beat the egg white and confectioners' sugar to form a stiff
1 tbsp. sugar 15 mi. icing. Toast the almonds in an ungreased skillet over low
heat until they are lightly browned. Ice the croissants, stick
Almond cream filling
the almonds into the icing, then let the topping set.
egg B. DESCHAMPS AND J ..CL. DESCHAINTRE
LE LIVRE DE L'APPRENTI PATISSIER
2 egg yolks 2
Y3 cup sugar 75 mi.
Y4 cup flour 50 mi.
Breton Butter Loaf
Y2 cup ground blanched almonds 125 mi.
Kouing-Aman
2 cups milk, simmered with a piece of vanilla Y2 liter
To make one 10-inch [25-cm.] round loaf
bean for 3 minutes
10 oz. basic bread dough (recipe , page 164) 300 g.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
10 tbsp. butter, softened 150 mi.
Almond topping
%cup superfine sugar 175 mi.
egg white, lightly beaten
Make the bread dough in the usual way. Then, after the first
1 cup con fectioners' sugar Y4 liter rising, punch it down and roll it out on a floured board into
3
!4 cup almonds, blanched and slivered 175 mi. a rectangle about lh inch [1 em.] thick. Spread it with
the butter , leaving an unbuttered l-inch [2%-cm.] margin
Prepare a yeast sponge by mixing the yeast with half of the around the edges of the r ectangle. Sprinkle the butter with
tepid milk. Let stand for 10 minutes, then blend in one third all but 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of the sugar. Fold the dough in
of the flour to make a soft dough. Cover the mixture and let it three lengthwise, then in three crosswise, to form it into a
rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. Mix the rest of the flour little parcel. Roll out the dough again, trying not to let the
with half of the butter, the salt, sugar and remaining milk, butter and sugar escape. Fold the dough lengthwise and
adding more milk if necessary. Knead until a smooth, elastic crosswise again, but this time in two instead of in three.
dough is obtained. Mix this with the well-risen yeast sponge. Then roll it out again, and shape it into a round about 10
Roll the dough into a ball, and let it rise in a cool place for at inches [25 em.] across and lh inch thick.
least two hours, or (preferably) overnight in the refrigerator. Place the dough in a generously buttered 10-inch [25-
Roll out the dough into a rectangle about lh inch [1 em.] cm.] spring-form pan set on top oftwo baking sheets. Let the
thick. Divide the rest of the butter into small pieces and dot dough rise for 20 minutes, then put it-still on the baking
them over half ofthe dough. Fold the rectangle in half cross- sheets - in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven. Bake for
wise, enclosing the butter as if it were in a purse. Roll out the about 20 minutes, or until the bread is golden and the sur-
dough again and fold it in three crosswise, then give the face caramelized. Remove the bread from the pan while it is
dough a quarter turn and roll it out again. Fold it in three, still hot and sprinkle it with the reserved tablespoon of sug-
cover, and let it rest for 20 minutes in the refrigerator. ar. Serve it warm. If necessary, the bread can be reheated in
Repeat these rolling, folding and resting processes twice a preheated 300° F. [150° C.] oven for about 10 minutes.
more. Then roll out the dough a final time into a rectangle LES DESSERTS DE NOS PROVINCES

134
 Chelsea Buns and-milk glaze. Separate them only after they have cooled
for a few minutes.
To make 10 to 12 buns ELIZABETH DAVID
5 cups flour 1 Y4 liters ENGLISH BREAD AND YEAST COOKERY

3/s oz. cake fresh yeast 18 g.

2;3 cup tepid milk 150 mi.
1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
2 tbsp. sugar 30 mi. Aberdeen Buffer Rolls
16 tbsp. butter ( Y2 lb. [ Y4 kg.]), softened 240 mi. Buttery Rowies
2 eggs, beaten 2 To make about 20 rolls
2 tsp. grated lemon peel 10 mi. 4 cups flour 1 liter
3/s oz. cake fresh yeast 18 g.
1 tsp. ground cinnamon or allspice 5 mi.
4 tbsp. superfine sugar, 2 tbsp. [30 mi.] mixed 60 mi. 1 tbsp . superfine sugar 15ml.
with 2 tbsp. milk 1 tsp. salt 5ml.
Chelsea-bun filling 1% cups tepid water 425 mi.
6 tbsp. butter, cut into pieces 90 mi. 12 tbsp. butter, softened 180 mi.
%cup dried currants, soaked in warm water 175 mi. 12 tbsp. lard, softened 180 mi.
for 15 minutes and drained
Sift the flou r into a warm bowl. Mix the yeast with the sugar
brown sugar 125 mi. and salt, and add it to the flour along with the water. Mix
well, cover the dough with a warm, damp towel and set the
Pour half of the milk over the yeast, and let the mixture
bowl in a warm place until the dough rises to twice its bulk
foam. Mix the flour with the salt and sugar, then rub in the
about one and one half hours. '
s?ftened butter. Add the yeast and the eggs, lemon peel and
cmnamon or allspice, then mix to a fairly stiff dough with Beat the butter and lard together until they are thor-
oug~ly blended; then divide the mixture into three equal
the rest of the milk. Cover the bowl and leave it in a warm
portwns. On a floured board, roll out the dough (which is the
place for about two hours, until the dough has risen very
high and is extremely light and puffy. b.etter for being chilled after it has risen) into a strip three
Break down the dough, knead it well, and divide it into tiJ?es as long as it is wide. Place small pats of the butter
two equal portions. Roll each into a rectangle. Spread each mixture a ll ove~ the strip until the first portion is used up.
Fo~d the .d ough m three and roll it out. Repeat this process
rectangle of dough with an equal quantity of butter, warmed
cur~ants and ?rown sugar. Fold each rectangle in th ree by
twice, a! mtervals of30 mi~utes, keeping the dough refriger-
foldmg one third over a second third and folding the remain- ated ?r. m a cool plac~ durmg the intervening periods.
ing third on top of the other two. Turn the rectangles DI':Ide the dough mto about 20 pieces and shape each of
these mto an oval. Place the ovals a little apart on two
through a quarter circle, then roll them out again into rec-
tangles approximately 8 by 10 inches [20 by 25 em.]. Now greased-and-floured baking sheets, and let them rise in a
roll up each piece of dough firmly, like a jelly roll. Seal the warm place for 30 minutes. Bake in a preheated 400° F. [200°
edges with water. Cut these rolls into slices from 1 to 2 C.] oven for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden brown.
inches [2¥2 to 5 em.] thick, according to the size you want the F. MARIAN MC NEILL
THE SCOTS KITCHEN
buns to be, remembering that by the time they have risen
and been baked, they will have doubled in volume.
Arrange the slices in even rows on a greased baking
sheet-seven to a row used to be the rule of professional
bakers- with a space of about 1 inch [2 Y2 em.] between each
bun. The spacing is important, for during the rising period
and as t~e buns grow in volume so that they almost merge,
they begm to assume t he characteristically square shape. (If
they are t?o far al?art they remain round.) When they are all
but touchmg, sprmkle them with the 2 tablespoons [30 ml.]
of superfine sugar. They are now ready for the oven. Bake
them in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven for 15 minutes.
During baking, the merging process is completed. As soon as
you take the buns from the oven, brush them with the sugar-
135
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

Salt-Rising Bread
To make two 9-by-5-inch
GJ3reads [23-by-13-cm.] loaves

Without ~ast
8Y2 to flour 2Y4 to
9% cups 2% liters
%cup cornmeal, preferably stone-ground 125 mi.
4 cups milk 1 liter
Soda Bread (White) 5 tbsp. vegetable shortening, cut into bits 75 mi.
To make one 8-inch [20-cm.] round loaf 1 tbsp. sugar 15 mi.
4 cups flour 1 liter 1 tbsp. salt 15 mi.
% tsp. baking soda 2 mi. 1 egg, beaten with 1 tbsp. [ 15 mi.] milk 1
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi. Starting a day ahead, measure the cornmeal into a heatproof
1% cups buttermilk or sour milk 300 mi. bowl. Then heat 1 cup [1,4 liter] of the milk in a small pan
until bubbles form around the sides. Pour the milk over the
Heat the oven to 400° F. [200° C.]. Butter an 8-inch [20-cm.] cornmeal and stir until it is a smooth paste. Set the bowl in a
cast-iron pot or deep skillet and place it in the oven to warm. warm, draft-free place overnight, or until the cornmeal mix-
Sift the flour, baking soda and salt into a bowl. Mix them ture ferments and develops a strong cheeselike odor.
into a soft dough with the buttermilk or sour milk. Turn out Place the shortening, sugar and salt in a mixing bowl
the dough onto a floured board and knead it with a pushing- 12 inches [30 em.] across the top. Pour water to a depth of
and-pulling motion until smooth. Shape the dough into a 2 inches [5 em.] into a pot 12 inches in diameter. (The rim of
round about 8 inches [20 em.] across. Remove the pot or the bowl should fit snugly over the pot; the pot must be deep
skillet from the oven and lay the round in it, floured side up. so that the bottom of the bowl will be suspended above the
With a sharp knife, cut a cross in the top of the dough. Cover water.) Bring the water to a boil, then remove the pot from
the pot or skillet with a tight-fitting lid and return it to the stove and cover tightly to keep the water hot.
the preheated oven for about 40 minutes, or until the bread In a heavy saucepan, heat the remaining milk until bub-
is golden brown. bles form around the sides of the pan. Pour the milk over the
IRISH RECIPES TRADITIONAL AND MODERN shortening mixture and stir until the sugar and salt dis-
solve. When the mixture is tepid, add 3'12 cups [875 ml.] of
flour and, after it is incorporated, add the cornmeal mixture.
Set the bowl over the pot of water and drape the bowl
with a kitchen towel. Let the dough rise for about two hours,
Baking Powder Biscuits or until surface bubbles indicate that it has fermented. The
To make about 15 biscuits water under the bowl must be kept tepid; check the pot occa-
sionally and replenish with boiling water if necessary.
2 cups sifted bread flour Y2 liter When the dough has fermented, remove the bowl from
1 tbsp. baking powder 15ml. the pot. Stir into the dough 5 to 6 cups [11,4 to 1'12liters] more
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi. flour, 1 cup [1,4 liter] at a time, to make a firm ball. If the
dough becomes difficult to stir, work in the flour with your
4 tbsp. vegetable shortening 60ml. hands. Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and
about milk about knead it for 20 minutes, or until it is smooth and elastic.
%cup 175 mi. Divide the dough in half and shape each piece into a cylindri-
calloaf about 8 inches [20 em.] long and 4 inches [10 em.]
To the flour, add the baking powder and salt, and sift togeth- wide. Place the loaves in buttered 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-
er. Cut in the shortening with two knives or a pastry blender cm.] loaf pans and set them aside in the draft-free place for
until the mixture is the consistency of coarse cornmeal. Stir two hours, or until the loaves double in bulk.
in the milk to make a soft dough; then turn the dough out Brush the tops of the loaves with the egg-and-milk mix-
onto a lightly floured board and knead for half a minute. Roll ture and bake on the middle shelf of a preheated 400° F. [200°
out the dough about '12 inch [1 em.] thick. Cut into 2-inch C.] oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the temperature to 350° F.
[5-cm.] rounds with a floured biscuit cutter, and bake on an [180° C.] and bake for 25 to 30 minutes longer, or until the
ungreased baking sheet in a preheated 450° F. [230° C.] oven bread is golden brown. To test for doneness, t urn the loaves
for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the biscuits are browned. out and rap the bottoms with your knuckles. The loaves
LOUIS P. DE GOUY
should sound hollow. Cool the loaves on racks before serving.
THE BREAD TRAY FOODS OF THE WORLD/AMERICAN COOKING: THE EASTERN HEARTLAND

136
 Beaten Biscuits salt- and add them to the butter-and-egg mixture alter-
nately with the sour milk. Stir in the raisins or dates, if
To make about 36 biscuits desired. Fill the buttered cups of a muffin pan two thirds full.
3 cups flour %liter Bake the muffins in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 20
to 25 minutes, or until golden brown.
Y2 tsp. sugar 2 mi. CHEZZETCOOK HISTORICAL SOCIETY COOKBOOK
Y2 tsp. salt 2ml.
3 tbsp. butter, cut into pieces and chilled 45 mi.
3 tbsp. lard, cut into pieces and chilled 45 mi.
Y2 cup milk, chilled 125 mi.
Sister Olive Wheeler's Soda Biscuits
To make 12 to 16 biscuits
about water, chilled about
Y2 cup 125 mi. 2 cups flour Y2 liter

Sift the flour, sugar and salt into a mixing bowl. Add the Y2 tsp. baking soda 2ml.
butter and lard and, with two knives or a pastry blender, cut 1 tsp. cream of tartar 5ml.
them into the flour until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Y2 tsp. salt 2ml.
Add the milk and enough water to make a stiff dough. Toss
the mixture with a fork. Knead the dough for 15 minutes; Y2 cup milk 125 mi.
then beat it with a mallet for 20 minutes, or until well blis-
tered. Or put the dough through the coarse disk of a food Sift together the flour, cream of tartar and salt. Dissolve the
grinder, folding the dough over frequently. When ready, the baking soda in the milk and stir the mixture into the sifted
dough should be smooth and glossy. ingredients. Pat the dough thin, cut it into 12 to 16 squares,
Roll out the dough '12 inch [1 em.] thick and cut it into and bake the squares on a greased baking sheet in a preheat-
rounds with a small, floured biscuit cutter. Prick the rounds ed 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 10 minutes, or until browned.
with the tines of a fork and bake on baking sheets in a pre- AMY B. W. MILLER AND PERSIS W. FULLER (EDITORS)
heated 325° F. [160° C.] oven for 30 minutes. THE BEST OF SHAKER COOKING

JEAN HEWITT
THE NEW YORK TIMES SOUTHERN HERITAGE COOKBOOK

Triticale Muffins
To make 8 large muffins
3 425 mi.
1 14 cups triticale flour
2 tsp. baking powder 10 mi.
Bran Muffins Y2 tsp . salt 2ml.
Buttermilk or plain yogurt can be used instead of sour milk. YJ cup hominy grits, boiled, drained and 75 mi.
To make 12 muffins cooled
1 cu p sifted fl our Y4 liter %cup milk 175 mi.
1 tsp. baking soda 5ml. egg, lightly beaten 1
1 cup bran breakfast cereal Y4 liter 2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled 30 mi.
4 tbsp. butter 60ml. 2 tbsp. blackstrap molasses 30 mi.

Y4 cup sugar 50 mi. Y4 cup freshly brewed strong black coffee, 50 mi.
cooled
egg, beaten
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl. In a sepa-
rate bowl, combine the cooled grits, milk, egg, butter, molas-
1 cup sour milk Y4 liter ses and coffee. Pour the grits mixture into the flour mixture
Y2 cup seedless raisins o r chopped dates 125 mi. and stir well. Spoon the batter into the oiled cups of a muffin
(optional) pan. Bake in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 20 min-
utes, or until the muffins are crusty on top. Serve hot.
Cream the butter with the sugar. Add the egg and beat well. JULIA OLDER AND STEVE S HERMAN
Mix the dry ingredients- bran, flour, baking soda and SOUP AND BREAD

137
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

Graham Bread Buttermilk Oaten Bread

Graham flour is another name for whole-wheat flour. The To make four 8 % -by-5-by-5-inch [2 1-by-
name comes from Sylvester Graham, an early 19th Century 13-by-13-cm.] wedges
American dietician who pioneered the use of flour made from
1Y4 cups flour 300 mi.
the whole grain.
To make two 8 %-by-4 %-inch [21 -by- 11-
2 Y3 cups rolled oats, pulverized in a blender or 575 mi.
food processo r, and steeped
cm.] /ooves
overnight in 1 Y4 cups [300 mi.]
4 cups graham flour 1 liter buttermilk or sour milk
~ cup all-purpose flour 150 mi. Y2 tsp. baking soda 2 mi.
2 tsp. baking soda 10ml. Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
% cup sugar SO mi. Mix the flour, soda and salt together in a bowl. Stir in the oat
2 tsp. salt 10ml. mixture. If necessary, add a little more buttermilk or sour
Y2 cup molasses milk to make the mixture into a soft dough. Knead the dough
125 mi.
until it is smooth-about 10 minutes.
2 tbsp. butter or lord, melted and cooled 30ml. Roll out the dough into a round about 2 inches [5 em.]
2Y2 cups milk 625 mi. thick, and lay it on a well-buttered baking sheet. With a
sharp knife, cut it into quarters. Bake the bread in a preheat-
Sift the flours, baking soda, sugar and salt together. Add the ed 375° F. [190° C.] oven for about 25 minutes, until the
molasses, melted butter or lard, and the milk. Beat well- bread is golden.
air and the baking soda are the only rising agents. Put the IRISH RE CIPES TRADITIONAL AND MODE RN
dough into two greased 8¥2-by-4¥2-inch [21-by-11-cm.] loaf
pans and bake in a preheated 375° F. [190° C.] oven for one
hour, or until a skewer inserted in the center of the loaf
comes out clean.
AMY B. W. MILLER AND PERSIS W. FULLER (EDITORS)
THE BEST OF SHAKER COOKING
Rice Bread
Pain de Riz
To make one 8 -inch [20-cm. ] round or
squa re breod
Y4 cup row unprocessed rice, boiled, cooled 50 mi.
and pressed through a sieve
2 cups white cornmeal, sifted Y2 liter
2Y2 tsp. baking powder 12 mi.
Rye Drop Cakes 2Y2 cups milk 625 mi.
To make about twelve 4-inch [10-cm.] cakes 3 eggs, beaten 3
about rye meal about 1 tsp. salt Sml.
2 cups Y2 liter
1 tbsp. butter, melted 15ml.
1 tsp. baking soda Sml.
2 cups buttermilk Y2 liter Gradually pour the milk into the eggs while mixing. Mix the
salt and baking powder with the cornmeal and add it to the
2 eggs 2 milk and eggs. Beat well. Then add the melted butter and
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi. the rice. Mix all thoroughly and beat until very light. Then
grease the bottom of a shallow, round or square 8-inch [20-
To the buttermilk add the eggs, baking soda, salt and cm.] baking pan and turn the mixture into it. Bake in a
enough rye meal to make a batter that will spread a little, preheated 400° F . [200° C.] oven for 30 minutes, or until a
but not run. With a spoon, drop the batter into muffin rings skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Serve hot,
placed on a lightly greased hot griddle. For baking, the cakes buttering the slices freely.
will require six to seven minutes-about twice the time TH E PICAYUNE CREOLE COOK BOOK
of griddlecakes.
MRS. M. E . PORTER
MRS. PORTER'S NEW SOUTHERN COOKERY BOOK

138
 Granny's Oatcakes well in the center of the mixture, and add enough sour milk
to produce a dry but spongy dough-a sticky dough will
For the beefdrippings called for, use the fat melted from a beef make the bread heavy. Turn the dough out onto a floured
roast; lard may be substituted. Steel-cut oatmeal is obtain- board, divide it in half and, with your palms, quickly pat and
able from most health-food stores and some European-food roll the dough into two flat cakes. Place these on two floured
specialty stores. baking sheets. Score each bread lightly into four quarters
These oatcakes are always best made in small batches. If with a sharp knife and bake the breads in a preheated 425° F.
a large number is to be made, repeat the small batches. [220° C.] oven for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the tops of the
To make about ten 3-inch [8-cm. ] breads are brown and crisp.
oatcakes ANNE PASCOE
CORNISH RECIPES OLD AND NEW
1 Y2 cups steel-cut oatmeal 375 mi.
Y2 tsp. baking soda 2 mi.
4 tsp. beef drippings 20 mi.
5 or 6 tbsp. boiling water 75or90ml.
Whole-wheat Griddle Breads
salt Chappati
Melt the beef drippings in the water, then add this to the Chappati dough can be made and cooked within a few min-
oatmeal along with the baking soda and a pinch of salt. Work utes. Personally, I like to leave the dough overnight in the
the mixture into a stiff dough. Roll out the dough very thin refrigerator, covered with a damp muslin cloth.
on a board sprinkled with oatmeal. Cut the dough into To make about eight 5-inch [1 3-cm.]
rounds with a 3-inch [8-cm.] biscuit cutter or a coffee cup, round flatbreads
and place the rounds a few at a time on a hot, lightly greased
griddle or skillet. Cook them until the edges curl, about 2 cups whole-wheat flour Y2 liter
three minutes. Do not turn the oatcakes over, but transfer 1 tsp. salt 5ml.
them to a baking sheet and put them under a broiler for two
or three minutes to brown the tops lightly. about water about
PETITS PROPOS CULINAIRES I 1 cup Y4 liter
Mix the flour and salt and place them on a pastry board.
Sprinkle some ofthe water in the middle and gradually work
it in until the flour has absorbed it. Stop adding water as
soon as the dough is supple and elastic. Knead the dough
well-the longer the better. Ten minutes gives a specially
light finish, but five minutes is adequate. Cover with a wet
muslin cloth and leave for 30 minutes at least. If the dough is
Brown Oatmeal Bread left for a longer period of time, it should be kept in a cool
place. Knead lightly again before shaping the dough.
To sour 1 V-i cups [300 ml.] of milk, add 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] Form the dough into small, round balls and flatten them
of vinegar or lemon juice to the milk and let the mixture stand with the palm of your hand. Dust the rounds with a little
for five minutes. flour on each side, place them on a board and roll each of
To make two 8-inch [20-cm.] round them out as thin as a sheet of parchment paper. They should
flatbreads be the same diameter as your griddle or skillet. Have the
griddle or skillet at medium heat (a little hotter if it is very
4 cups whole-wheat flour 1 liter thick) and turn a flatbread onto it. Wait until the first bub-
YJ cup steel-cut oatmeal 75 mi. bles rise in the bread, about three minutes. Turn it over,
using a spatula or your hand. After a minute or so, press on
1 tsp. baking soda 5ml. the edges a little and gently rotate the bread. Now pick up
1 tsp. salt 5ml. the bread with the spatula and, if you are using a gas range,
hold the bread steady over a high flame. Otherwise, set the
4 tbsp. lard 60 mi.
bread under the broiler for a few seconds. In both cases, the
about sour milk about bread should puff up and then be ready to eat.
1 Y4 cups 300 mi. To serve, heat a deep dish, line it with hot napkins and
stack the bread. Keep the bread covered with the napkins
Sift together the salt, baking soda and flour and mix very and take it to the table.
thoroughly. Rub in the fat until the mixture has the consis- DHARAMJIT SINGH
tency of fine bread crumbs, then mix in the oatmeal. Make a INDIAN COOKERY

139
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

Whole-wheat Buttered Griddle Bread mixture resembles coarse meal. Pour in the water and toss
the ingredients together until the dough can be gathered
Paratha into a ball. Drape the bowl with a kitchen towel and let the
Lovage seeds can be purchased from Indian or Middle East- dough rest at room temperature for about two hours.
ern food stores. Cut the dough into three equal pieces. Then, on a lightly
floured surface, roll each piece into a round about 8 inches
To make six 7-inch [18-cm. ] flatbreods [20 em.] in diameter and \4 inch [6 mm.] thick. Cut two 4- to
1% cups whole-wheat flour 425 mi. 5-inch [10- to 13-cm.] parallel slits completely through the
center of each round, spacing the slits 1 inch [2 lh em.] apart.
% tsp. salt 4 mi. In a heavy skillet, melt the remaining lard over medium
12 to 16 lovage seeds, roughly bruised 12 to 16 heat until it is very hot but not smoking. The melted fat
should be about 1 inch deep; add more lard if necessary. Fry
Y2 cup milk 125 mi. the breads one at a time for about two minutes on each side,
Y2 cup water 125 mi. turning them once with tongs or a slotted spatula. The bread
2 to 4 tbsp. butter, melted
will puff slightly and become crisp and brown. Drain the
30to 60 mi.
Navajo fry bread on paper towels and serve warm.
Sift the flour and salt onto a board and make a well in the FOODS OF THE WORLD/AMERICAN COOKING: THE GREAT WEST
center. Drop the lovage seeds into the well and pour in the
milk and water. Combine the ingredients to form a very soft
dough, almost a batter. Knead or beat it until it is smooth.
Cover with a damp cloth and let the dough rest at room
temperature for at least one and a half hours, but preferably
for eight hours or overnight.
Divide the dough into six portions and roll each of them
into a circle, about 7 inches [18 em.] across. Brush the circles
with a little of the melted butter. Fold the circles in half and Norman Flatbread
then fold again to make triangles. Roll out the triangles La Foncee
a gain to form circles about 7 inches across. Brush the circles
with melted butter and repeat the folding and rolling proc- This traditional flatbread from N ormandy is nearly identical
ess. Do this at least three times more. The more times you to that eaten in S candinavia, and can thus almost certainly be
repeat the process, the crisper your bread will be. traced back to the N ormans' Viking ancestors.
Cook one paratha at a time on a lightly buttered griddle To make one 10-inch [25-cm. ] flatbread
or in a heavy skillet over medium heat until it is a pale
brown, mottled with a dark brown. Turn the paratha over 2 cups flour Y2 liter
and cook on the other side. Serve hot. 2 eggs, beaten 2
DHARAMJIT SINGH
INDIAN COOKERY salt
16 tbsp. butter (Y2 lb. [% kg.]), softened and 240 mi.
cut into pieces
1 cup heavy cream Y4 liter
Navaio Fry Bread
1 egg yolk, beaten
To make three 8-inch [20-cm. ] round
flatbreads Put the flour into a bowl. Make a well in the center and pour
2 cups flour Y2 liter in the eggs. Add a pinch of salt, the butter and the cream.
Knead well with your finger tips to form a smooth dough.
2 tsp . baking powder lOml. Cover and let the dough stand for 30 minutes.
Y2 cup nonfat dry milk 125 mi. Roll out the dough and fold it into quarters. Roll out the
dough again and r epeat the folding. Then shape the dough
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi. into a ball, cover, and let it rest for 15 minutes before rolling
2 tbsp. lord, cut into small pieces 30 mi. it into a round about 10 inches [25 em.] in diameter and the
thickness of a finger. Lay this round on a buttered baking
Y2 cup ice water 125 mi.
sheet. Score a cross lightly with the point of a sharp knife to
lib. lord for deep frying Y2 kg. divide the round into quarters. Brush the round with the egg
yolk. Bake in a preh eated 425° F . [220° C.] oven for about 30
Combine the flour, dry milk, baking powder and salt, and minutes, or until brown.
sift them into a deep bowl. Add the small pieces of lard and, MARIE BISSON
with your finger tips, rub the flour and fat together until the LA CUISINE NORMANDE

140
 Telemark Flatbread Barley Flatbread
This crisp flatbread will keep indefinitely if stored in an air- Ohrarieska
tight container. Pearl barley is whole barley with the husks removed. It is
To make two 12- to 14-inch obtainable at health-food stores.
[30- to 35-cm. ] round flatbreads This is a thick, chewy bread with a subtly sour taste.
2 cups all-purpose flour Y2 liter To make one 8-inch [20-cm. ] square
flatbread
2 cups oat flour Y2 liter
%cup barley flour 50 mi.
2 cups barley flour Y2 liter
2 cups pearl barley Y2 liter
2 cups light rye flour Y2 liter
2% cups buttermilk 625 mi.
2 cups water Y2 liter
1 egg, lightly beaten 1
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
1 Y2 tsp. sea salt 7 mi.
Mix all of the ingredients together and work them into a 1 tbsp. oil or melted butter 15ml.
pliable dough. Divide the dough in half, roll out each half
into a thin round, and cook over low heat on a hot, buttered Soak the barley flour and pearl barley in the buttermilk at
cast-iron griddle or skillet until crisp, about 10 minutes on room temperature for seven to eight hours or overnight.
each side. Cool the flatbreads on wire racks. Butter an 8-inch [20-cm.] square glass baking dish. Add
ELISE SVERDRUP the egg and salt to the barley-and-butterm ilk mixture and
NORWAY'S DELIGHT: DISHES AND SPECIALITIES
blend well. Pour the batter into the baking dish and bake it
in a preheated 350° F . [180° C.] oven for 30 minutes, then
brush the top of the flatbread with oil or butter. Continue
baking the bread for 30 minutes to one hour, or until the top
Tortillas and sides are brown and crisp. Serve warm or cold.
A comal is a small, round iron or earthenware griddle. The ULLA KAK6NEN
NATURAL COOKING THE FINNISH WAY
author suggests you may use any other heavy griddle. The
tortillas may be flattened-between sheets ofplastic wrap or
wax paper-with a rolling pin instead of a tortilla press.
To make about twelve 5-inch [13-cm.] tortillas
2 cups corn flour Y2 liter Philpy
1YJ cups tepid water 325 mi. This is a traditional rice bread from Charleston, South Caro-
1 tsp. salt 5 mi. lina. Rice was introduced into North America when Captain
John Thurber brought a bag of rice from Madagascar to
Mix the ingredients to form a soft dough. Divide the dough Charleston in 1680.
into balls the size of small eggs and flatten them in a tortilla To make one 10-inch [25-cm.] flatbread
press, lined with two plastic bags or two sheets of plastic
1 cup cornmeal % liter
wrap or wax paper, to form thin, round cakes about 5 inches
[13 em.] across. If the tortillas stick to the plastic wrap or 1 cup raw unprocessed rice, boiled in 2 cups Y4 liter
wax paper, the dough is too moist: Scrape it off, add a little [% liter] water and cooled
more corn flour to the dough and begin again. It does not % liter
1 cup milk
hurt the dough to handle it.
Place an ungreased carnal over medium heat and cook 2 eggs, beaten 2
the tortillas one at a time for about two minutes on each side, 1 tbsp. butter, melted 15ml.
or until the edges brown lightly and begin to lift.
Tortillas can be kept warm for several hours in a preheat- Y2 tsp. salt 2ml.
ed 150° F . [65° C.] oven. Have ready a cloth napkin wrung
out in hot water. As you make the tortillas, wrap them first Mix the rice with the milk, cornmeal, eggs, butter and salt.
in paper towels and then in the napkin, and put them in the Beat well and pour into a well-buttered 10-inch [25-cm.] pie-
oven. When all of the tortillas are stacked up, dampen the pan. The mixture should be thin. Bake in a preheated 375° F.
napkin again, wrap the lot in aluminum foil and keep in [190° C.] oven until nicely browned- about 30 minutes.
the oven until needed. Break in pieces and serve with butter.
ELISABETH LAMBERT ORTIZ HELEN BROWN
THE COMPLETE BOOK OF MEXICAN COOKING HELEN BROWN'S WEST COAST COOK BOOK

141
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

Popovers custard cups ready. Fill the cups half-full. Bake in a preheat-
ed 425° F. [220° C.] oven for 20 minutes until the popovers
There are two methods of baking popovers, both satisfac- have "popped"; reduce the heat to 350° F. [180° C.] and bake
tory, although the hot-oven method turns out a popover with until the tops are firm and golden brown. Turn off the heat.
a firmer inside. Prick the side of each popover with the tines of a fork, or
To make 8 medium-sized popovers make a slit with a knife tip, to let steam escape. Return the
popovers to the oven for five to 10 minutes. Insert into the
1 cup sifted flour Y4 liter slits pieces of cold butter or a little jam or warm maple syrup.
1 cup milk Y4 liter TED AND JEAN KAUFMAN
THE COMPLETE BREAD COOKBOOK
1 tbsp. butter, melted 15 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
2 eggs 2

To make popovers using the hot-oven method, preheat the Cheese Popovers
oven to 425° F. [220° C.]. Grease the cups of a popover pan To make about 9 popovers
generously and set the pan aside. (If using glass or earthen-
ware ·c ups, preheat them in the hot oven before greasing 1 cup flour Y4 liter
them. Remove and grease the cups just before filling them.) 1 cup milk Y4 liter
With a rotary beater, wire whip or fork, beat together just
1 tbsp. butter, melted 15 mi.
until smooth the milk, butter, flour and salt. Beat in the
eggs, one at a time, but do not overheat. Ladle the batter into Y4 tsp. salt 1 mi.
the cups. Bake in the preheated oven, without peeking, for 2 eggs, beaten
30 minutes. Then reduce the heat to 350° F. [180° C.] and 2
continue baking for 5 to 10 minutes, or until the popovers a:r;e Ys tsp. paprika Y2 mi.
firm, puffy and well browned. Serve them immediately. cayenne peppe r
To make the popovers by the cold-oven method, mix the
batter as directed above. Fill the greased baking cups less Y2 cup grated sharp Cheddar or Parmesan 125 mi.
than two thirds full. Place them 'in a cold oven and set the cheese
heat at 425° F. Bake, without peeking, for about 30 to 35
minutes, or until the popovers ~are firm, puffy and well Beat the milk, butter, flour and salt together, just until
browned. If the popovers brown too quickly, reduce the heat smooth. Add the eggs, one at a time, but do not overheat; the
to 375° F. [190° C.] for the last '10 or l5 minutes. patter should be no heavier than whipping cream. Add the
NIKA HAZELTON •
paprika and a few grains of cayenne pepper to the grated
AMERICAN HOME COOKING cheese. Butter the cups of deep muffin or popover pans; dust
them with grated cheese. Poqr a scant tablespoon of batter
into each cup and cover it with a few teaspoons of cheese,
then add another tablespoon of batter. Bake at once in a
preheated 450° F. [230° C.] oven for 15 minutes, then reduce
Dierdr~~s Favorite Walnut Popovers the heat-withou t peeping-to 350° F. [180° C.] and bake
To make about 12 popov~rs for about 20 minutes longer.
2 cups sifted flour
To test for doneness, remove a popover to be sure the side
Y2 liter walls are firm. If not cooked long enough , the popover will
3 ~ggs 3 collapse. After baking, you may want to insert a sharp par-
2 cups milk ing knife gently into the popovers to let the steam escape.
Y2 liter
IRMA S. ROMBAUER AND MARION ROMBAUER BECKER
1 tsp. grated lemon peel 5 mi. JOY OF COOKING
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
YJ cup chopped walnuts 75 mi.
cold butter pieces, jam or warmed
maple syrup Mrs. Macnab's Scones
Mrs. Macnab was the wife of a farmer who lived near Bal-
Beat the eggs with a rotary beater or wire whisk until thick later in the Grampian highlands. Such was her reputation
and lemon-colored. Add the milk. To the flour add the lemon as a baker that King Frederick of Prussia and other distin-
peel, salt and nuts. Add all at once to the egg-milk mixture, guished guests at Balmoral used frequently to go over and
beating briskly until the batter is smooth. Have buttered, have tea with her. It is not possible to impart Mrs. Macnab's
sizzling-hot popover molds'or muffin pans or ovenproof-glass lightness of touch, but here, at least, is the recipe for her
142
celebrated scones. The secret of success lies in not overwork-
ing the dough.
To make 15 to 20 scones
4 cups flou r 1 liter
1 tsp. baking soda 5 mi. Cheesy Bread
2 tsp. cream of tartar 10ml. To make 10 rolls
1 tsp . salt 5 mi. 2 cups flour Y2 liter

4 tbsp . butter, softened and cut into pieces 60 mi. 1 tbsp. baking powder 15ml.

1 egg, beaten 1 1 tsp . salt 5ml.

1% cups buttermilk 300 mi. 1 cup finely shredded Cheddar cheese Y4 liter
medium-sized potato, boiled, peeled,
In a bowl, mix thoroughly the flour, baking soda, cream of mashed and pressed through a sieve
tartar and salt. Rub in the butter. Gradually stir in the egg (about Y2 cup [125 mi.])
and buttermilk. Turn out the dough onto a floured board,
flour the top, and knead very briefly with your hand. Cut off about milk about
pieces of dough about the size of eggs and flatten them with Y2 cup 125 mi.
your knuckles (to a thickness of about 72 inch [1 em.]), but do
not roll them out at all. Prick each scone with a fork and Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt, making sure
mark it into quarters. Butter and flour a baking sheet and there are no lumps remaining, particularly of baking pow-
place the scones on it. Bake in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] der. Gradually add the cheese and potato, blending the mix-
oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until lightly browned. ture quickly with your finger tips. Gradually add enough
F. MARIAN MC NEILL milk to make a soft, dry dough; shape it into 10 small balls,
THE SCOTS KITCHEN handling the dough as little as possible. Place the balls on a
floured baking sheet and bake them in a preheated 450° F .
[220° C.] oven for 10 to 15 minutes, or until they are golden
brown. Eat them while they are still warm.
ANN PASCOE
Vanilla-Cream Bread CORNISH RECIPES OLD AND NEW

A delicately flavored bread good to serve with your favorite

homemade jam.
To make one 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-cm . ] loaf
2 Y2 cups flour, sifted with 2 Y2 tsp. [12 mi. ] 625 mi.
baking powder Sage Biscuits Chicoutimi
2 large eggs, the yolks separated from 2 These biscuits are named for the steamship Chicoutimi,
the whites famed for her trips up the Saguenay River in Canada.
2!J cup heavy cream 150 mi. To make about 16 biscuits
2 tbsp. sugar 30 mi. 2 cups flour Y2 liter
Y2 tsp. vanilla extract 2 mi. 1 tsp . baking powder 5 mi.
2!J cup milk 150 mi. Y2 cup oil 125 mi.
Y4 tsp. salt 1 mi. 2!J cup milk 150 mi.

In a large bowl, beat the egg yolks with the cream, sugar,
Y4 cup chopped fresh sage leaves 50 mi.
vanilla extract and milk. Beat the egg whites until very stiff. 1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
Sift the flour and salt into the egg-yolk mixture, add the
beaten egg whites and carefully fold all of the ingredients Sift the flour into a bowl and add the baking powder, oil,
together until evenly mixed. Spoon the mixture into a but- milk and sage. Stir with a wooden spoon and add the salt.
tered 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-cm.] loaf pan. Bake on the upper Blend until smooth. Drop the batter by spoonfuls onto a
shelf of a preheated 375° F. [190° C.] oven for 40 minutes, or greased baking sheet. Bake 1n a preheated 475° F. [250° C.]
until the loaf is well risen and firm to the touch. Serve hot. oven for 10 to 12 minutes.
LORNA WALKER AND JOYCE HUGHES FRANCES D. & PETER J . ROBOTTI
THE COMPLETE BREAD BOOK FRENCH COOKING IN THE NEW WORLD

143
 BREADS WITHO UT YEAST

Sweet Potato Biscuits at least one hour, then knead it once again and, if necessary ,
sprinkle a little more water on it.
To make about 12 biscuits
Warm the ghee and have it by you. Divide the dough into
2 cups sifted flour Y2 liter 10 pieces, shape each into a ball and, with a little of the
4 tsp. baking powder
reserved flour sprinkled on the work surface, roll out the
20ml. dough into a round about 14 inch [6 mm.] thick. Using a
1 tsp. salt 5ml. spoon, spread some of the warmghe e on the round, then fold
10 tbsp. shortening it over and spread a little more ghee on the top. Repeat the
150 mi. rolling, spreading and folding processes two or three times,
medium-sized sweet potato, boiled, and then roll out the paratha to make a fairly thin round.
peeled and mashed (about 1 cup [% liter]) Repeat with the rest of the dough.
about milk To make the potato stuffing, boil the potatoes in their
about
3 tbsp. jackets; when cool, peel and mash them. Heat the ghee in a
45 mi.
frying pan and fry the onion, coriander and ginger gently for
Sift the flour, baking powder and salt, cut in the shortenin g a few minutes. Add the salt,gara m masala, cayenne pepper
and blend in the sweet potatoes. Add enough milk to make a if using, and the mango pulp or lemon juice. Mix in the
soft dough. Knead lightly. On a lightly floured board, roll out mashed potatoes and let the mixture sizzle for two to three
the dough to about % inch [2 em.] thick. Cut the dough into minutes. Remove it from the heat and let it cool.
squares, or into rounds with a biscuit cutter. Bake the bis- Spread warm ghee on each paratha and place a table-
cuits on an ungreased baking sheet in a preheated 400° F. spoon [15 ml.] or more of the stuffing in the center. Fold
[200° C.] oven for 15 to 20 minutes. the paratha over the stuffing to enclose it. Using some
J UNIOR LEAGUE OF JACKSON, MISSISSIPPI of the remaining flour, roll out the paratha as thin and
SOUTHERN SIDEBOARDS as round as you can.
Grease a griddle or heavy frying pan well with butter or
extra ghee, heat to medium hot and put a paratha on it.
When one side is partially cooked-a bout five minutes -
turn theparath a over and spreadghee liberally on it; do the
same to the other side ..When ready, the parathas should be
Stuffed Parathas golden brown and well soaked with ghee. They should be
To make about I 0 parathas served piping hot.
SAVITRI CHOWDHARY
2 Y2 cups w hole-whea t flour 625 mi. INDIAN COOKING
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
%cup water 175 mi.
6 tbsp . ghee 90 mi. Apple Breakfast Rolls
To make about 18 rolls
Potato stuffing
2 cups flour Y2 liter
2 large potatoes 2
Y2 tsp. baking soda 2 mi.
1 tbsp. ghee 15ml.
1 tsp. cream of tartar 5 mi.
1 sma ll onio n, finely chcpped 1
1 cup milk Y4 liter
2 tbsp. cho pped fresh coriander 30 mi.
Y2 cup sugar 125 mi.
Y2-i nch slice fresh ginger root, peeled and 1-cm.
finely chopped 1 Y2 cups finely diced apples 375 mi.
1Y2 tsp. salt lard
7 ml.
1 tsp. garam masala 5 mi. Make a batterofth eflourmix ed with the cream of tartar, the
Y2 tsp. cayenne pepper (optional ) baking soda, milk and sugar. Put in the diced apples last.
2ml.
Grease the cups of muffin pans with lard, place a dab oflard
1 tbsp. pureed mango pulp or 2 tsp. [1 0 mi.] 15ml. in the bottom of each well, and get the pans sizzling hot on
fresh lemon juice top of the stove. Fill the cups two thirds full with batter, and
let them stand for a good minute; then put the pans into a
Put 2 cups [lh liter] of the flour into a bowl with the salt and preheated 400° to 425° F . [200° to 220° C.] oven and bake
gradually add the water to make a soft dough. Pound and quickly, about 10 minutes.
knead by hand for several minutes: The more the dough is
HELEN LYON ADAMSON
kneaded, the lighter the bread will be. Let the dough rest for GRANDMOT HER IN THE KITCHEN
144
 Spiced Apple Bread mixture. Sift together the flour, baking powder, soda and
salt; add them gradually. Stir in the apricots and raisins.
Guernsey Gache Melee Pour the batter into a well-greased 8%-by-4%-inch [21-by-
This traditional bread from Guernsey in the Channellslands 11-cm.] loaf pan. Bake the bread in a preheated 350° F. [180°
is partially leavened by the malic acid in the apples. C.] oven for one and one quarter hours, or until a skewer
inserted into the loaf comes out clean.
To make one 12-by-8-inch
THE JUNIOR LEAGUE OF GREENVILLE, INC.
[30-by-20-cm.] bread 300 YEARS OF CAROLINA COOKING
4 cups whole-wheat flour 1 liter
3 medium-sized cooking apples, 3
peeled, cored and chopped into small
pieces
16 tbsp. butter(% lb.[% kg.]), softened 240 mi.
2% cups dark brown sugar 650 mi.
1 tsp . ground cinnamon 5 mi.
2 tsp. grated nutmeg 10ml.
Carrot-Apricot Steamed Bread
To make two 5-inch [13-cm.] cylindrical
3 eggs, beaten 3 loaves
Mix the flour and apples thoroughly, and let them stand in a 2 cups all-purpose flour Y2 liter
warm place for three hours. Cream the butter with the sugar
and add the cinnamon and grated nutmeg. Mix all of the 1 cup whole-wheat flour, preferably stone- % liter
ingredients together, add the eggs and mix again thorough- ground
ly. Transfer the mixture to a greased 12-by-8-inch [30-by-20- 2 tsp . baking powder 10ml.
cm.] baking pan and bake in a preheated 325° F. [160° C.]
1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
oven for one and one half hours, or until a knife dipped into
the bread comes out clean. 2 eggs 2
J. STEVENS COX (EDITOR)
GUERNSEY DISHES OF BYGONE DAYS
%cup honey 150 mi.
1Y3 cups milk 325 mi.
4 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 60 mi.
1 tsp. grated orange peel Sml.
Apricot Bread
1 cup grated raw carrots % liter
To make one 8 %-by-4 %-inch
[21-by-11-cm.] loaf 1 cup chopped dried apricots %liter
2 cups sifted flour Y2 liter Sift together the all-purpose flour, baking powder and salt.
2 tsp. baking powder 10 mi. Add the whole-wheat flour and mix well with a fork.
In a large bowl beat the eggs until they are light and
% tsp. baking soda 1 mi.
thick. Add the honey, milk, butter and grated orange peel,
2 cups dried apricots Y2 liter beating to mix. Stir in the grated carrots and chopped apri-
1 cup sugar Y4 liter cots. Add the flour mixture, and blend thoroughly but gently
with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon.
2 tbsp. butter, softened 30ml. Divide the batter between two buttered 1-pound coffee
1 egg 1 cans. Cover the tops with foil, and secure it tightly around
the cans with string or tape. Place the cans on a trivet or cake
Y4 cup water 50 mi. rack in a large pot of boiling water, which should reach half-
Y2 cup fresh orange juice 125 mi. way up the cans. Cover the pot tightly and let the water
simmer (not boil) for three hours. Remove the cans from the
1 tsp. salt 5 mi. water and carefully remove their covers. Place the cans in a
Y3 to raisins, soaked in hot water for 75 to preheated 300° F. [150° C.] oven for about 10 minutes to dry
%cup 15 minutes and drained 150 mi. out the bread slightly. Then let the cans sit on a rack for five
minutes or so before sliding the loaves out. Let them finish
Soak the apricots in warm water to cover for 30 minutes. cooling on the rack if you are not serving immediately.
Drain, and cut the apricots into strips. Cream the sugar and ELLEN FOSCUE JOHNSON
butter. Add the egg, water and orange juice to the creamed THE GARDEN WAY BREAD BOOK

145
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

Jamaican Banana Bread ingredients in a few swift strokes; fold in the fruit and the
peel, if using, before the dry ingredients are completely
To make one 8 % -by-4 Y2 -inch [21-by-11-cm . ] loaf moist. Be sure to hold the mixing to an absolute minimum-
2 cups flour Y2 liter a light stirring of 10 to 20 seconds-that will leave some
lumps. Ignore them. The dough should not be mixed to the
1 tbsp. baking powder 15 mi. point of pouring, ribbon-like, from the spoon, but should
8 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened 120 mi. break in coarse globs.
Y2 cup sugar
Fill well-greased muffin pans about two thirds full. Bake
125 mi.
in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 20 to 25 minutes. If
1 egg 1 the muffins are left in the pans for a few moments after
Y2 tsp. sa lt 2 mi. leaving the oven, they will be easier to remove. They are
really best eaten very promptly.
Y2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg 2 mi. IRMA S. ROMBAUER AND MARION ROMBAUER BECKER
1 tsp. vanilla extra ct JOY OF COOKING
Sm l.
2 large, ripe bananas (about 1 lb. [Y2 kg .]) 2
¥3 cup seedless raisins, tossed with 150 mi.
1 tsp. [5 mi.] flour
Cranberry Nut Bread
Y4 cup coarsely chopped pecans 50 mi.
To make one 9-by-5-inch
Cream the butter and sugar together in a mixing bowl until [23-by-13-cm.] loaf
they are light and fluffy. Add the egg and beat the mixture 2 cups fl our Y2 liter
thoroughly. Sift together the flour, baking powder , salt and
nutmeg. Mash the bananas and add the vanilla extract. Add 1% tsp. baking powd er 7 mi.
the sifted ingredients and the banana alternately to the egg, % tsp. baking soda 2 mi.
butter and sugar mixture, beating after each addition until
everything is thoroughly blended. Add the raisins with the 1 cup sugar Y4 liter
pecans to the batter, mixing well. Pour the batter into a 1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
buttered 8lh-by-4 lh-inch [21-by-11-cm.] loaf pa n. Bake the 4 tbsp. butter, softened and cut into pieces 60 mi.
loaf in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for about one hour,
or until a skewer inserted into the loaf comes out clean. %cup fresh orange juice 175 mi.
ELISABETH LAMBERT ORTIZ 1 tbsp. grated orange peel 15 mi.
CARIBBEAN COOKING
1 egg, beaten 1
% cup chopped nuts 125 mi.
1 to 2 cups fresh cranberries Y4 to Y2 liter

Blueberry or Cranberry Muffins Sift together the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda
and salt. Cut in the butter until the mixture resembles
To make abovt thirty 2-inch [5-cm.] mvffins coarse cornmeal. Combine the orange juice, orange peel and
1% cups sifted flour 425 mi. beaten egg. Pour them over the dry ingredients and stir just
enough to dampen the mixture. Carefully fold in the chopped
2 tsp. baking powder 10ml. nuts and the cranberries.
% tsp. salt 4 mi. Spoon the mixture into a greased 9-by-5-inch [23-by-13-
cm.] loaf pan. Bake in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for
YJ cup sugar 75 mi. about one hour, or until the crust is golden brown and an
4 tbsp. butter, melted and cooled 60ml. inserted toothpick comes out clean.
3 ELEANOR A. ELLIS (EDITOR)
/. cup milk 175 mi. NORTHERN COOKBOOK
2 eggs, beaten 2
1 cup fresh blueberries or chopped Y" liter
cra nberries, lightly floured
1 tsp. grated orange or lemon peel (optional) Sml.

Sift together the flour, ba king powder, salt and sugar. Add
the butter and milk to the eggs and combine with the dry
14 6
 Pumpkin Muffins em.] pans and scoop the batter into them. Sprinkle the tops
with sesame seeds. Bake the loaves in a 350° F. [180° C.]
To make 12 muffins oven for 45 minutes. Allow the loaves to cool.
1Y2 cups flour 375 mi. 'lb make the rusks, cut the loaves into slices~ to% inch
[1 to 2 em.] thick. Place the slices on ungreased baking
2 tsp. baking powder 10ml. sheets and dry them slowly in a 250° F. [130° C.] oven for
o/.1 tsp. salt 4 mi. 30 minutes, turning the slices over once. Cool the rusks be-
fore storing them in a tightly closed plastic bag.
~cup sugar 150 mi.
THERESA KARAS YIANILOS
Y2 tsp. ground cinnamon 2 mi. THE COMPLETE GREEK COOKBOOK

Y2 tsp . grated nutmeg 2 mi.

4 tbsp. butter, melted 60 mi.
1 egg 1
Bury Simnel Cake
The simnel cake is one of the oldest English sweet breads.
Y2 cup cooked, well-drained and mashed 125 mi.
Although it has traditionally been baked for Mothering Sun-
pumpkin flesh
day (the fourth Sunday in Lent) as a gift from children to
Y2 cup milk 125 mi. their parents, its origins are probably pre-Christian; the
Y2 cup seedless raisins 125 mi. name may be derived from the Roman white flour called si-
mila. This flour was used in a cake decorated with balls of
Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt,~ cup [125 ml.] dough for the feast of Matronalia, a Roman version of Moth-
of the sugar, the cinnamon and nutmeg into a bowl. Combine er's Day; the Shrewsbury simnel cake is similarly garnished
the butter, egg, pumpkin, milk and raisins. Add to the sifted with marzipan balls to represent the Twelve Apostles. This
dry ingredients. Stir enough to mix. Pour into the buttered recipe from Bury is closer to medieval versions of the cake.
cups of a muffin pan. Sprinkle a little of the remaining sugar To make one 7- to 8-inch [18- to 20-cm.] cake
over each muffin before placing in the oven. Bake the muf-
fins in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 20 minutes. 1Y4 cups flour 300 mi.
FRANCES D. & PETERJ. ROBOTTI Y2 tsp. baking powder 2 mi.
FRENCH COOKING IN THE NEW WORLD
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
2 tbsp. lard 30 mi.
6 tbsp. superfine sugar 90 mi.
Sweet Rusks Y2 tsp . ground cinnamon 2 mi.
Paxemadakia Y2 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg 2 mi.
To make one 8 Y2-by-4 % -inch
[21-b y-11-cm. ]foaforthree6-by-3-inch 2 cups dried currants, soaked in hot water fo r Y2 liter
15 minutes and drained
[15-by-8-cm.] loaves, or about 25 rusks
chopped candied fruit peel SO mi.
2Y2 cups flour 625 mi.
egg, lightly beaten
1 tbsp. baking powder 15 mi.
2 to 3 tbsp. milk 30to45ml.
16 tbsp. butter, softened, or~ cup [150 mi.] oil 240 mi.
and Ys tsp. [Y2 mi.] salt whole blanched almonds or walnuts
3 large eggs 3 candied cherries
1 cup sugar Y4 liter thinly sliced candied citron peel
1 tsp. anise seeds 5 mi. Rub the butter and lard into the flour and then add the
Y4 cup sesame seeds 50 mi. sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, currants and chopped candied
peel, mixing well. Add the egg, and mix all of the ingredients
If you are using butter, cream it until light and thick. Add into a very stiff dough, adding a little milk if necessary.
the eggs, sugar and anise seeds, beating all the while. If you Form the dough into a round, flat cake, and place it on a
are using oil, beat it with the eggs, sugar and anise seeds. buttered baking sheet. Decorate the cake with the nuts,
Sift the flour and baking powder, and add the salt if using cherries and citron peel, and bake in a preheated 400° F.
the oil. Add the butter or oil mixture to the flour and mix [200° C.] oven for 30 minutes, or until golden brown.
well. The dough will be a sticky batter. Oil one 8~-by-4~­ MARGARET BATES
inch [21-by-11-cm.] loaf pan or three 6-by-3-inch [15-by-8- THE SCOTTISH AND IRISH BAKING BOOK

147
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

Pineapple Muffins Raspberry Buns

To make about 20 muffins To make 8 to 10 buns
1YJ cups flour 325 mi. 1 cup all-purpose flour Y4 liter
2 tsp. baking soda 10ml. %cup rice flour 175 mi.
Y2 cup sugar 125 mi. Y2 tsp. baking powder 2ml.
YJ cup vegetable shortening 75 mi. salt
YJ cup honey 75 mi. 4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
2 eggs 2 %cup sugar 50 mi.
1YJ cups bran cereal 325 mi. %cup tepid milk 50 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi. 1 large egg, beaten 1
1 cup half-and-half cream % liter 8 to 10 tsp. raspberry jam 40 to 50 mi.
1 cup canned crushed pineapple, well drained % liter
Mix the flours, salt and baking powder together. Rub in the
Cream the sugar, shortening and honey together, then add butter, and then work in the sugar. Add the milk to the egg
the other ingredients and mix lightly. Fill greased muffin- and incorporate them into the dry ingredients.
pan cups two thirds full. Bake for 25 minutes in a preheated Form the mixture into eight to 10 balls and place them on
350° F. [180° C.] oven. (Or cover the pans with wax paper and a buttered baking sh eet. Ma ke a well in each ball with your
refrigerate them overnight to bake up fresh in the morning.) finger and put 1 teaspoon [5 ml.] of raspberry jam into he
well. Fold the dough over the well to seal it, and bake the
WILF AND LOIS COPPING
THE COUNTRY INNKEEPERS' COOKBOOK buns in a preheated 400° F. [200° C.] oven for 15 to 20 min-
utes, or until golden brown. Let cool on a wire rack.
ABERDEEN SCHOOL OF DOMESTIC SCIENCE
PLAIN COOKERY RECIPES

Griddlecake
Cacen Gri
To make one 8 -inch [20-cm. ] cake Boston Brown Bread
2 cups flour Y2 liter You may freeze this bread, tightly wrapped, and reheat it in
Y2 tsp. baking soda 2 ml.
foil for about 20 minutes in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.]
oven, or slice it and toast it. Delicious with cream and jam.
salt 1 mi.
To make two 6-inch [15-cm.] cylindrical
8 tbsp. butter 120 mi. loaves
sugar 50 mi. 1 Y2 cups rye flour 375 mi.
YJ cup dried currants, soaked in hot water for 75 mi. 1 Y2 cups water-ground cornmea l 375 mi.
15 minutes and drained
1 tsp. baki ng soda 5m l.
egg, well beaten
Y2 tsp. salt 2ml.
Y2 cup buttermilk o r milk 125 mi.
2 cups mil k Y2 liter
Put the flour into a bowl with the salt. Rub in the butter. Add 1 egg, well beaten
the sugar and currants, and mix thoroughly. Make a well in
the center of the mixture. Dissolve the baking soda in the Y2 cup dark molasses, warmed 125 mi.
milk and pour it into the well. Then add the egg. Blend and 1 cup raisins, soaked in hot water for % liter
knead the mixture to a soft dough. Turn the dough out onto 15 minutes and d rained (optional)
a floured board, shape it into a ball, and flatten it to form a
round cake about lh inch [1 em.] thick. Bake the cake on a Sift the cornmeal, rye flour, baking soda and salt together.
lightly greased griddle or heavy skillet over medium heat Stir the milk and egg into the molasses. Combine all of the
until browned, about 10 minutes on each side. Halve the ingredients and mix them well. Add the raisins, if using.
cake horizontally while still warm and spread it with butter. Butter two l lh-quart [l lh-liter] molds, or use ! -pound
S. MINWEL TIBBOTT coffee cans. Make tight lids for them out of foil, which you
WELSH FARE can tie on securely so that no steam escapes. Pour the batter
148
into the molds, filling them not more than three quarters full between two buttered 7-inch [18-cm.] cake pans. Bake the
to allow for rising. Cover them tightly. spice bread in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for one hour.
Pour water into a Dutch oven or large kettle to a depth of As soon as the bread is cooked, brush the surface quickly
1 inch [2'12 em.] . Cover the Dutch oven or kettle tightly and with the milk sweetened with the sugar and heated to a
bring the water to a boil. Place the molds in the water andre- syrup-like consistency, and return the bread to the oven for a
cover the pan tightly. Steam the bread for three hours; check few seconds to set the glaze. Cool the bread before serving.
occasionally to be sure that the water does not boil away, and PROSPER MONTAGNE
add enough water to maintain the l-inch level in the pan. THE NEW LAROUSSE GASTRONOMIQUE
To serve the bread, let the covered molds stand on a rack
for about five minutes to let the steam subside. Then remove
the covers and upend the molds onto a plate. Cut the bread
into %-inch [2-cm.] slices while it is still hot. Slice only as
much as you will need for a meal and serve with butter.
JANE MOSS SNOW
A FAMILY HARVEST
Cinnamon Muffins
To make 12 muffins
1 Y2 cups sifted flour 375 mi.
2Y4 tsp. baking powder 11 mi.
French Spice Bread
lj3 cup sugar 75 mi.
Pain d'Epice
Y2 tsp. grated nutmeg 2 mi.
To make one 14-by-11 -inch [35-by-28-
em.] rectangular flatbread or two 7-inch Y4 tsp. salt 1 mi.
[18-cm . ] round breads 1 extra-large egg 1
4 cups rye flour, or substitute bread flour 1 liter Y2 cup milk 125 mi.
2 tsp. baking powder 10ml. 4 tbsp. butter, melted and cooled to tepid 60 mi.
1 tsp. baking soda 5 mi.
Cinnamon topping
1Y4 cups honey 300 mi.
5 tbsp. butter, melted 75 mi.
7 tbsp. superfine sugar 105 mi.
1 tsp. ground cinnamon, mixed with lj3 cup Sml.
Y2 cup almonds, blanched and chopped 125 mi. [75 mi.] sugar
Y2 cup chopped mixed candied fruit peel 125 mi.
Sift together onto a piece of wax paper the flour, baking
1 tsp. anise seeds 5 mi. powder, sugar, nutmeg and salt; carefully pick up the paper
Ys tsp . ground cinnamon Y2 mi. and return the dry ingredients to the sifter. Sift them into a
mixing bowl. The second sifting is to ensure complete mixing
Ys tsp. ground cloves Y2 mi. of the dry ingredients. Break the egg into a small bowl and
1Y2 tsp. grated lemon or orange peel (optional) 7 mi. beat it with a wire whisk or fork until the white and yolk are
thoroughly combined. Stir the milk and then the butter into
Y4 cu p milk 50 mi. the beaten egg.
2 tbsp. sugar 30 mi. Make a small well in the center of the dry ingredients
and pour the liquid ingredients into the well. With the mix-
Heat the honey to the boiling point; skim the froth from the ing spoon, stir only enough to dampen all of the dry ingredi-
surface, remove the honey from the heat and cool to tepid. ents. The batter should be lumpy. Carefully spoon the batter
Sift the flour into a bowl, make a well in the center and pour into the well-buttered cups of a muffin pan, filling each cup
in the honey. Mix with a wooden spoon until a firm paste is two thirds full of batter. Fill empty cups in the muffin pan
obtained. It may be necessary to add additional flour, as with water to maintain even heating throughout the pan.
some flours are more absorbent than others. Shape the paste Bake the muffins in a preheated 425° F. [220° C.] oven for
into a ball, wrap it in a cloth and let it rest for one hour. Then about 12 minutes, or until golden brown.
knead in the superfine sugar, baking powder, baking soda, When the muffins have cooled for three or four minutes,
chopped almonds and candied peel. Knead in the anise seeds, remove them from the pan to a rack. Dip the top of each
cinnamon, ground cloves and grated peel, if using. Knead muffin first in the melted butter and then in the cinnamon-
the dough vigorously for about 10 minutes to give it body. sugar mixture. These muffins are best served warm.
Roll out the dough into a 14-by-11-inch [35-by-28-cm.] KATHLEEN THORNE·THOMSEN AND LINDA BROWNRIDGE
rectangle and place it on a buttered jelly-roll pan or divide it WHY THE CAKE WON'T RISE AND THE JELLY WON'T SET

149
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

Spanish Nut Bread

Pan de Nueces
To make one 7 Y2 -by-3 % -inch [19-by-9-cm. ]loaf
2% cups flour 550 mi.
1 tsp. baking powder 5 mi.
Scalded-Mea l Jonny Cakes
1Y2 tbsp. butter, softened 22 mi.
The author of this recipe and the one below uses the 18th
egg, beaten Century spelling for johnnycake.
%cup sugar 175 mi. To make about 18 small cokes
1 cup milk % liter 1Y2 cups white water-ground cornmeal 375 mi.
213 cup raisins, soaked in hot water for 15 150 mi. about butter, 1 tbsp. [1 5 mi.] softened, the about
minutes and drained l 0 tbsp. rest cut into thick slices 150 mi.
1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts Y4 liter l tsp. salt 5ml.
l tsp. molasses 5ml.
In a bowl, beat together the butter, egg and sugar until
creamy. Add half the flour alternately with the milk, then about boiling water about
the raisins and nuts, and finally the remaining flour and the l Y2 cups 375 mi.
baking powder. Turn out the dough onto a floured work sur-
milk
face and knead lightly with your fingers for 10 minutes.
Butter and flour a 7¥.!-by-3¥.!-inch [19-by-9-cm.] pan. Put in Place the cornmeal, softened butter, salt and molasses in a
the dough and let it rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. bowl and pour over these enough boiling water to make a
Bake the loaf in a preheated 325° F . [170° C.] oven for one stiff dough. Beat t horoughly and let stand for a few minutes
hour, or until a skewer inserted into the loaf comes out clean. while th e mixture thickens. Thin down the dough with milk
If the bread browns too quickly, cover the top with wax paper to a consistency that will readily drop off the end of a spoon.
to prevent burning. The flavor will be improved if the loaf is Drop the dough by the tablespoonful onto a well-greased
wrapped, after cooling, in a clean cloth or aluminum foil and hot griddle. Cook over low h eat for 10 to 15 minutes, t urning
left in a cool, dry place for 24 hours. once to brown both sides lightly.
SIMONE ORTEGA Split the hot jonny cake in h alf and place a slice of butter
MIL OCHENTA RECETAS DE COCINA
between the halves. When t he butter has melted, serve.
CEIL DYER
THE NEWPORT COOKBOOK

Grandmother's Corn Pone

In parts of the South these fried pones were referred to as Milk Jonny Cakes
hoecakes because they were fried over open fires on hoes. To make 12 to 14 small cokes
Settlers who came from the North might have called them white water-ground cornmeal % liter
"johnnycakes," probably derived from journey cakes. l cup
l tsp. sugar 5ml.
To make about five 3-inch [8-cm.] cakes
1 cup corn meal Y4 liter Y2 tsp. salt 2ml.

5ml. about milk about

1 tsp. salt
l 3,4 cups 425 mi.
1 cup boiling w ater % liter
rendered bacon fat
4 tbsp. rendered bacon fat 60 mi.
Put the cornmeal, sugar and salt in a bowl. Add the milk and
Mix together the salt and the cornmeal. Pour the water over mix thoroughly.
them and stir well. Immediately wet your hands in cool wa- Bake on a hot griddle greased with bacon fat, as you
ter a nd form the mixture into rounds about 3 inches [8 em.] would bake griddlecakes. Since the meal continues swelling
across. Melt the bacon fat in a frying pan over medium heat, for some time, add more milk to the batter as necessary to
and fry the rounds until they are golden brown on each side. keep the mixture at the proper thin consistency.
LINDA KENNEDY ROSSER (EDITOR) CEIL DYER
PIONEER COOKERY AROUND OKLAHOMA THE NEWPORT COOKBOOK

150
 Dodgers, Dabs or Cornmeal PuHs salt. Stir well. Meanwhile, put the bacon fat or butter in a
9-inch [23-cm.] cast-iron skillet or heavy baking dish, and
To make about 12 puffs place the vessel in an oven preheated to 350° F. [180° C.].
2 cups cornmeal Y2 liter When the skillet or baking dish is thoroughly hot, remove it
from the oven and pour in the cornmeal batter. Carefully
Y3 cup boiling water 75 mi. pour the remaining milk over the top of the batter. Bake for
1 tsp. butter, softened 5 mi. 50 minutes, or until the cake is firm and the top is golden.
JEAN HEWI'IT
1 tsp. sugar 5 mi. THE NEW YORK TIMES NEW ENGLAND HERITAGE COOKBOOK
% tsp . salt 2 mi.
2 or 3 tbsp. milk 30or45 mi.
2 eggs, the yolks separated from the 2
whites, the yolks beaten, and the
whites stiffly whipped
Skillet Corn Bread and Corn Sticks
Scald the cornmeal with the boiling water so that the meal is The technique ofpreparing corn sticks appears on page 88.
all wet but not soft. Add the butter, sugar, salt and milk. To make one 9-inch [23-cm. ] round loaf
When the mixture is cold, add the beaten egg yolks and fold or fourteen 5 % -inch [14-cm.] sticks
in the whites. The batter should drop easily from the
spoon- not thin enough to be poured, nor stiff enough to 1Y2 cups cornmeal, preferably white water- 375 mi.
be scraped out. ground
Have your muffin pans well buttered and hissing hot. Y2 cup flour 125 mi.
Drop heaping spoonfuls of the batter into each compartment
of the pans, dividing the batter evenly among the compart- 1 tbsp. baking powder 15 mi.
ments, and bake in a preheated 400° F . [200° C.] oven for 1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
about 20 minutes, or until brown and puffy.
MRS. MARY J. LINCOLN
2 eggs 2
MRS. LINCOLN'S BOSTON COOKBOOK 1Y2 cups buttermilk 375 mi.

Combine the cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt, and

sift them into a deep bowl. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs
lightly with a wire whisk or fork, then add the buttermilk
and mix well. Pour the liquid ingredients over the dry ones
and, with a wooden spoon, stir them together until the batter
is smooth; do not overheat.
To make corn bread, place a heavy 9-inch [23-cm.] skillet
with an ovenproof handle over high heat for about two min-
utes, or until the skillet is very hot. Remove the skillet from
Spider Corncake the heat and, with a pastry brush, quickly coat the bottom
A spider is an 18th Century cast-iron frying pan with long and sides with melted butter. Immediately pour in the bat-
legs that hold the pan above the coals in a hearth. ter, spreading it even and smoothing the top with a rubber
spatula. Bake in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for 30 to
To make one 9-inch [23-cm . ] bread 35 minutes, or until the corn bread begins to draw away from
1Y2 cups yellow cornmeal 375 mi. the edges of the skillet and the top is a rich golden brown.
125 mi. To serve, run a knife around the edges of the skillet to
Y2 cup fl our
loosen the sides of the bread. Place a warmed platter upside
1 tsp. baking soda 5 mi. down over the skillet and, grasping platter and skillet to-
1 cup butterm ilk Y4 liter gether, invert them. Rap the platter sharply on a table and
the bread should slide easily out of the skillet. Cut the bread
2 cups milk Y2 liter into wedge-shaped pieces and serve at once.
2 tsp. sugar 10 mi. To make corn sticks, brush the inside surfaces of the
molds in a corn-stick pan with melted butter. Spoon the bat-
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi. ter into the molds, dividing it evenly amon g them. Bake in a
2 tbsp. rendered bacon fat or butter 30 mi. preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until
the corn sticks are golden brown. Turn the corn sticks out of
Combine the cornmeal, flour and baking soda in a mixing the pan, arrange on a warmed platter and serve at once.
bowl. Add the buttermilk, half of the milk, the sugar and the FOODS OF THE WORLD/AMERICAN COOKING: SOUTHERN STYLE

151
BREADS WITHOUT YEAST

Josephine's Batter Bread Cornmeal Apple Pone

To make one 6- to 7-inch [15- to 18-cm.] To make one 8-inch [20-cm.]
round bread square bread
1 cup cornmeal, sifted %liter 1 cup cornmeal % liter
1 tsp. baking powder 5ml. 2 tsp. baking powder 10ml.
1 tsp. sugar 5 mi. 1 cup boiling water Y4 liter
2 cups milk Y2 liter 1 egg, beaten
3 eggs 3 1 tsp. sugar 5 ml.
4 tbsp. butter 60ml. 1 medium-sized apple, peeled, cored 1
and chopped
Mix the dry ingredients; beat the milk and eggs together and
add them. In a deep 1-qua rt [1-liter] baking dish , melt the 1 tbsp. butter, melted 15 mi.
butter and swish it around in the dish so that the sides will Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
be evenly coated. Pour the batter into the baking dish. Bake
for about 30 minutes in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven, or heavy cream, wormed maple syrup,
until a knife comes out clean from the center of the bread. Do or confectioners' sugar
not let it become too dry. Serve the bread with butter. Place the cornmeal in a bowl and scald it with the boiling
MARION BROWN water. Stir until smooth , then let cool. When cold, add the
THE SOUTHERN COOK BOOK
beaten egg and beat vigorously for five minutes. Stir in t he
sugar, chopped apple, butter, salt a nd baking powder. Mix
well. Bake in a well-buttered, shallow, 8-inch [20-cm.]
squ are baking pan in a preheated 350° F. [180° C.] oven for
25 to 30 minutes, or until the top is golden brown. Serve the
pone warm. Pass a pitcher of heavy cream or warm syrup, or
sift a soft cloud of confectioners' sugar over the pone.
TED AND J EAN KAUFMAN
Carrot Corn Bread THE COMPLETE BREAD COOKBOOK

To make one 9- to I0-inch

[23- to 25-cm. ] round loaf
1 cup cornmeal, preferably stone-ground Y4 liter
1 cup all-purpose flour Y4 liter
2 tsp. baking powder 10ml.
Y2 tsp. salt 2ml. Maple Corn Bread
2 eggs 2 To make one 9-inch [23-cm.] square bread

2 tbsp. honey 30 ml. % cup cornmeal 1SO mi.

2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 30 mi. 1Y3 cups fl our 325 mi.
1 cup half-and-half cream or light crea m % liter 1 tbsp. baking powder 15ml.
1Y2 cups shredded or grated carrots 375 mi. Y2 tsp. salt 2m l.
Y3 cup maple syrup 75 mi.
Sift together the flour, baking powder and salt; mix in the
cornmea l with a fork. Beat the eggs until they are light and 8 tbsp. shortening, melted and cooled 120 mi.
slightly thickened. Add the honey and beat; beat in the melt- 2 eggs, beaten 2
ed butter and the cream. Stir in the carrots. Add t he flour-
cornmeal mixture a nd blend lightly but thoroughly. Butter Sift together the cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt.
a 9- to 10-inch [23- to 25-cm.] heavy skillet and heat it briefly Add the syrup, shortening and eggs. Stir until well mixed,
in a preheated 375° F. [190° C.] oven. Pour the batter into the but do not beat. Turn t he batter into a greased 9-inch [23-
skillet and bake the bread for about 30 minutes, or until the cm.] square cake pan and bake in a preheated 425° F . [220°
center is firm. C.] oven for 25 minutes.
ELLEN FOSCUE JOHNSON SARA B. B. STAMM
THE GARDEN WAY BREAD BOOK YANKEE MAGAZINE'S FAVORITE NEW ENGLAND RECIPES
152
 Italian Sweet Corn Bread ses with the sweet milk and sour milk; stir into the cornmeal
mixture. The batter will be thin. Grease a 1lh-quart [1 lh-
Pizza di Polenta liter] mold. Pour the batter into the mold; if the mold does
If citron is not available, use chopped candied fruit peel. not have a lid, cover it with wax paper or aluminum foil and
tie it down with string. Set the mold in a deep kettle, pour in
To make one 10-by-8-inch boiling water to within 3 inches [8 em.] of the rim of the
[25-by-20-cm.] bread mold, and boil gently for three hours. Add boiling water to
3% cups cornmeal 875 mi. the kettle from time to time to maintain the water level.
The top of the bread must be firm but not sticky before it
Y2 cu p flour 125 mi. is unmolded. Carefully unmold the loaf and serve it steam-
4 tbsp. butter, softened 60 mi. ing hot with butter.
YVONNE YOUNG TARR
Y3 cup oil 75 mi. THE NEW YORK TIMES BREAD AND SOUP COOKBOOK
2 tbsp. sugar 30 mi.
salt
2 cups hot water %liter
1 Y4 cups seedless w hite raisins 300 mi.
Y2 cu p pine nuts 125 mi.
Y2 cup cho pped candied citron 125 mi.

Put the cornmeal and flour in a large mixing bowl, make a Green Chili and Cheese Corn Bread
well in the center, and add the butter, oil, sugar and a pinch To roast fresh chilies, place them under a broiler, or spear
of salt. Mix all of the ingredients together and bind them each chili with a fork and hold it over the flame of a gas
with the water to form a batter the consistency of thick burner. Turn the chilies so that the skin blisters and chars
cream. Add the raisins, pine nuts and candied citron, and slightly but evenly. Wrap the chilies in a damp towel and
incorporate them well and evenly into the batter. leave them for 15 to 20 minutes before peeling them. The
Butter and flour a 10-by-8-inch [25-by-20-cm.] baking number of chilies used in the bread may be varied to taste,
pan. Gently pour the mixture into the pan and bake in a and canned or bottled jalapeno peppers may be used instead
preheated 375° F. [190° C.] oven for about 30 minutes, until of fresh chilies.
the edges are golden brown. To make one 10-inch [25-cm.] round bread
LUIGI VOLPICELLI AND SECONDINO FREDA (EDITORS)
L'ANTIARTUSI: 1000 RICETTE 2 cups whole-grain cornmeal % liter
1 tsp. baking soda 5ml.
3 eggs 3
2 cups buttermilk, plain yogurt or sou r cream Y2 liter
Y3 cup oil 75 mi.
1 tsp. salt 5ml.
Steamed Togus Loaf 4 long, green fresh chilies, roasted, 4
To make o ne 6- or 7 -inch peeled, halved, seeded a nd chopped
[15- or 18-cm.] round loaf 1 to 2 cups grated sharp Cheddar cheese %to Y2 liter
% cup flour, sifted 125 mi.
Mix together the eggs, the buttermilk, yogurt or sour cream
1% cups yellow cornmeal 375 mi. and the oil. Stir together the cornmeal, baking soda and salt,
Y2 tsp. baking soda 2m l. pressing out lumps; add to the egg mixture. Stir in the
chopped chilies and all but 1.4 cup [50 ml.] of the cheese.
1 tsp. salt 5ml. Preheat the oven to 450° F. [230° C.]. Heat an oiled 10-
% cup molasses 50 mi. inch [25-cm.] cast-iron skillet in the oven. Pour the batter
into the hot skillet; top with the reserved grated cheese.
1Y2 cups milk 375 mi. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the bread is set and
Y2 cup sour milk 125 mi. slightly brown on top. Cool the bread slightly before cutting
it into wedges and serving it.
Combine the sifted flour with the baking soda and salt, and MARLENE ANNE BUMGARNER
sift into a large bowl. Blend in the cornmeal. Mix the molas- THE BOOK OF WHOLE GRAINS

153
DOUGHNUTS

Golden Puffs
To make about 30 puffs

~oughnuts 2Y2 cups

1 tbsp.
sifted fl our
baking powder
625 mi.
15 mi.
The techniques for making doughnuts are
demonstrated on pages 38-39. Y4 cup sugar 50 mi.
1 tsp . salt 5 mi.
1 tsp. g round mace 5 mi.
Y4 cup corn oil 50 mi.
%cup milk 175 mi.
1 egg, beaten 1
oil or fat for deep frying
Funnel Cakes
To make about twelve 6-inch Sift the flour, baking powder, sugar, salt and mace together;
[15-cm.] cokes then add the oil, milk and beaten egg. Stir with a fork until
thoroughly mixed . Drop by the teaspoonful [5 ml.] into deep
2 cups flour %liter hot oil or fat heated to 375° F. [190° C.]. Fry the puffs until
1 tsp. baking powder Sml. golden brown-about three minutes. Drain on absorbent
paper. Roll the warm puffs in sugar.
vegetable oil WILF AND LOIS COPPING
1 tbsp . THE COUNTRY INNKEEPERS' COOKBOOK
sugar 15 ml.
% tsp. salt 1 mi.
2 eggs, lightly beaten 2
1 to milk 250to
1Y4 cups 300 mi.
molasses or maple syrup

Preheat the oven to its lowest setting. Line two large baking
sheets with paper towels and place them in the oven. Pour
vegetable oil into a large, heavy skillet to a depth of about
1% to 2 inches [4 to 5 em.] and heat the oil until it is very French Doughnuts
hot but not smoking.
Meanwhile, combine the flour, baking powder, sugar and To make ten to twelve 3-inch [8-cm . ]
salt, and sift them together into a deep bowl. Make a well in d oughnuts
the center, and pour in the eggs and 1 cup [ ¥.i liter] of the 1 cup sifted flour % liter
milk. With a large spoon, gradually mix the dry ingredients
3 tbsp. la rd 45 mi.
into the liquid ones and stir until the ba tter is smooth.
'lb make the cakes, ladle 1h cup [125 ml.] of batter into a % tsp. salt 1 mi.
funnel with a tube % inch [1 em.] in diameter, keeping the 1 cup hot water
tip of the tube closed wlth your forefinger. Dribble the batter
% liter
directly into the hot oil, using your finger to control the flow; 3 eggs 3
move the funnel in a circle to build a snail-like coil of three or lard for deep-fat frying
four rings about 6 inches [15 em.] in diameter. Form two or
three cakes and deep fry them for about two minutes on each To the hot water, add the 3 tablespoons [45 ml.] oflard and
side, turning them once with a slotted spatula. When the the salt and bring to a boil. Add the flour all at once and stir
cakes are brown, arrange them side by side on the paper- vigorously until the mixture forms a ba ll. Cool until tepid.
lined sheets and keep them warm in the oven. Repeat the Add the eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly after each
procedure four or five times, using 1h cup of batter for each addition. Chill the dough for one hour or longer. Pipe t he
batch. If the batter becomes stiff, add up to ¥.i cup [50 ml.] dough through a pastry bag fitted with a No.8 or 9 star or
more milk, a tablespoon [15 ml.] at a time. plain tube onto the edges of3-inch [8-cm.] rounds of greased
Serve the cakes warm, with molasses or maple syrup. brown paper or parchment paper. Heat lard to 365° F . [185°
FOODS OF THE WORLD/AMERICAN COOKING: THE EASTERN HEARTLAND C.] and lower the doughnuts, two or three at a time, into the
154
lard with the paper sides up. Fry until brown on one side. Yeast Potato Doughnuts
Remove the paper rounds, turn and brown on the second
side. Cool the doughnuts on a cake rack and sprinkle them Fasnachts
with confectioners' sugar.
JEANNE M. HALL To make thirty-six 2-by-3-inch
500 MORE RECIPES BY REQUEST [5-by-8-cm.] rectangles
6 cups sifted flour 1 Y2 liters
%oz. package dry yeast
medium-sized potato, peeled and
sliced

Maple-frosted Doughnuts 2% cups water 675 mi.

To make 36 doughnuts 4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.

3 cups sifted flour % liter Y2 cup granulated sugar 125 mi.

package active dry yeast 2 eggs, beaten 2

1 cup milk Y4 liter 1 tsp. salt 5ml.

2 tbsp. shortening 30 mi. fat for deep frying

2 tbsp. sugar 30 mi. superfine sugar

1 tsp. salt 5 mi. Cook the potato slices in 2¥2 cups [625 rnl.] of boiling salted
% cup tepid water 50 mi. water until tender. Drain, saving 1¥2 cups [375 rnl.] of the
potato cooking water. Melt the butter in this hot water.
egg Mash the potato and measure out 1.4 cup [50 rnl.]. Using an
o il electric mixer, if you like, beat the 14 cup of mashed potato
with the sugar in a large mixing bowl until well blended.
Maple frosting Add the eggs and salt; mix well. Gradually add the reserved
potato water. Mix the yeast with 1.4 cup of tepid water and
2 cups sifted confectioners' sugar Y2 liter add to the potato mixture. Beat in half of the flour and then
8 tbsp. butter, softened 120 mi. mix in the last 3 cups[% liter] of flour by hand. The dough
will be soft.
Y2 tsp. maple flavoring 2 mi.
Knead on a well-floured surface until smooth and elastic.
hot water Place the dough in a greased bowl, then turn the dough up-
side down so the top surface is greased. Cover and let rise
Scald the milk. Stir in the shortening, sugar and salt. Cool to in a warm place, free from drafts, until doubled in bulk, two
tepid. Sprinkle the yeast onto the tepid water; stir to mix. to three hours.
Add the yeast, egg and 1 cup [1.4 liter] of the flour to the milk Turn out onto a floured surface and knead for one min-
mixture. Beat with an electric mixer at medium speed until ute. Divide the dough in half. Roll each half into a rectangle
smooth, about two minutes, scraping the bowl occasionally. V3 inch [1 ern.] thick. With a pastry wheel or knife, cut the
Or beat with a spoon until the batter is smooth. dough into 2-by-3-inch [5-by-8-crn.] rectangles, making a
Gradually add the remaining flour, blending thoroughly. slit 1 inch [2¥2 ern.] long in the center of each. Place the
Cover the dough and let it rise in a warm place until doubled, rectangles on a cloth, away from any drafts, and cover with
about one hour. another cloth. Let the rectangles rise again until they have
Roll out the dough 1.4 inch [6 rnrn.] thick on a floured doubled in size, about one hour.
surface. With a floured knife, cut the dough into 3-by-1 '12- Fry a few of the rectangles at a time in deep fat preheated
inch [8-by-4-crn.] bars. Place the bars on floured wax paper. to 375° F. [190° C.]. Drain on paper towels. Roll the dough-
Cover and let the bars rise until doubled, about 45 minutes. nuts in superfine sugar.
In oil heated to 375° F. [190° C.], fry a few doughnuts at a EDNA EBY HELLER
time until golden brown, turning once. Drain the doughnuts THE ART OF PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH COOKING
on paper towels.
To make the frosting, combine the confectioners' sugar
with the butter. Beat in the maple flavoring and enough hot
water to make a creamy maple frosting. Beat until smooth.
When the doughnuts cool, spread them with the frosting.
ELISE W. MANNING (EDITOR)
COUNTRY FAIR COOKBOOK

155
DOUGHNUTS

Sour-Cream Doughnuts minutes. Then fry in deep fat heated to 375° F . [190° C.] for
about four minutes, or until golden brown, turning the
To make about eighteen 2-by-3-inch doughnuts once while they are frying. Let the doughnuts
[5-by-8-cm.] rectangles cool for two and a half minutes before sampling them.
about flour abo ut HAYDN S. PEARSON
COUNTRY FLAVOR COOKBOOK
4 cups l liter
l tsp. baking powder 5 mi.
l Y2 cups sour cream 375 mi.
l egg, beaten
granulated sugar 50 mi.
fat for deep frying
confecti o ners' sugar

Mix together the sour cream and beaten egg. Sift together
the flour, sugar and baking powder. Stir into the sour cream
mixture. If necessary to make the dough easy to roll out, add
more flour. 'furn out the dough onto a floured board and roll Yogurt Doughnuts
it out '12 inch [1 em.] thick. Cut the dough into 2-by-3-inch
[5-by-8-cm.] rectangles and cut a slit in the center of each. These doughnuts are not sweet. You may dust them with
Fry in deep fat heated to 360° F. [185° C.] until the dough- powdered sugar, glaze them with an icing of confectioners'
nuts are brown on both sides. Drain on brown paper. When sugar and a little water, or roll them in cinnamon sugar.
cool, sprinkle the doughnuts with confectioners' sugar. To make about 18 medium-sized
EDNA EBY HELLER doughnuts
THE ART OF PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH COOKING
3 cups flour 3,4 liter
l tsp. baking powder 5ml.
l tsp . baking soda 5 mi.
2 eggs 2

Maine Buttermilk Doughnuts %cup honey 50 mi.

l cup plain yogurt Y4 liter
To make 48 doughnuts
2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 30ml.
4 cups flour l liter
Y2 tsp. salt 2ml.
l tsp. baking powder 5ml.
grated nutmeg l mi.
l tsp. baking soda 5 mi.
2 egg s 2 In a large bowl, beat the eggs until they are light in color and
somewhat thickened. Beat in the honey, yogurt and melted
l cup sugar % liter butter. Sift together the flour, baking powder, soda, salt and
4 tbsp. shortening, melted 60 mi. nutmeg. Combine this with the egg-yogurt mixture, blend
gently, and turn out the dough onto a lightly floured board.
l cup buttermilk %liter Pat the dough together with your hands and knead it gently
Y2 tsp. grated nutmeg 2 mi. a few times until it holds together. A pastry scraper is help-
ful in folding the dough over on itself. If the dough seems
l tsp. salt 5ml. quite sticky, add a little more flour. Wrap the dough in plas-
fat for deep frying tic wrap or wax paper and chill for at least 30 minutes.
On a lightly floured board, roll the dough out with a
Beat the eggs. Add the sugar and beat well. Add the melted floured rolling pin to a thickness of about V2 inch [1 em.]. Cut
shortening and the buttermilk. with a doughnut cutter or two biscuit cutters (one large, one
Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, nut- small). Dip the cutters in flour each time. Let the doughnuts
meg and salt. Add this to the egg mixture, and again be sure and their cut-out centers rest on the board for 10 to 15 min-
to mix all together very thoroughly. On a floured board, roll utes, uncovered.
out the dough and cut it into doughnuts with a doughnut Heat deep fat or oil in a pot to 375° F. [190° C.]. If you
cutter. Let the doughnuts stand for a short while- 10 to 15 have one, use a deep-frying thermometer and leave it in the
156
pot so you can constantly check the temperature. Place the Spiced Sour-Cream Doughnuts
doughnuts and their centers on a spatula and slide them, one
at a time, into the hot fat. Cook only a few at once; do not Smultringer
crowd the pot. Fry until golden brown on both sides, about
three minutes in all. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain To make 30 doughnuts
on paper towels. Break open one of the first ones to test for about flou r about
proper doneness. Repeat frying with the remaining dough- 4 cups 1 liter
nuts and their cut-out centers.
1 tsp. baking soda 5ml.
ELLEN FOSCUE JOHNSON
THE GARDEN WAY BREAD BOOK 2 tsp. baking powder 10ml.
2 eggs 2
1 cup sugar Y4 liter
1 cup sour cream % liter

Spicy Doughnuts Y2 tsp. g round cardamom o r g rated nutmeg 2 mi.

Yz tsp. salt 2ml.
To make 14 doughnuts
la rd or o il for deep frying
3Y2 cups sifted flour 875 mi.
2 tsp. baking powder 10 mi. Beat the eggs well; add the sugar, sour cream, baking soda,
cardamom or nutmeg, salt and just enough flour to make a
1 tsp. baking soda 5ml. dough that can be rolled. Chill the dough, roll it out, and
2 tsp. ground cinnamon 10 mi. cut out doughnuts with a doughnut cutter. Cook the dough-
nuts in hot lard or oil, turning them over as soon as they rise
% tsp. ground cloves 1 mi. to the surface. Drain the doughnuts on paper towels.
Y4 tsp. grated nutmeg 1 mi. ALICE B. JOHNSON
THE COMPLETE SCANDINAVIAN COOKBOOK
ground mace 1 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt 2ml.
4 egg yolks 4
1 cup sugar % liter Cinnamon and Nutmeg Crullers
2 tbsp. butter, softened 30 mi. To make about 50 crullers
%cup buttermilk 175 mi. 12 cups flour 3 liters
1 tsp. rum extract 5 mi. 2 tbsp. baking soda 30ml.
oil for deep frying 24 tbsp. butter (% lb. [Y3 kg.]) 360 mi.

Cinnamon-sugar coating about sugar about

2Y4 cups 550 mi.
Yz tsp. ground cinnamon 2 mi.
1 tsp. ground cinnamon 5m l.
1 cup sugar % liter
1 tsp. grated nutmeg 5m l.
Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinna- 1 cup rose water %liter
mon, cloves, nutmeg, mace and salt.
Beat together the egg yolks and sugar until light. Add 10 eggs, beaten 10
the butter, buttermilk and rum extract. Add the sifted dry lard for deep frying
ingredients all at once, stirring just until smooth. (The
dough is very soft. ) Knead the dough lightly on a floured Rub the butter, 21;4 cups [550 ml.] of sugar and the flour well
surface. Cover, and refrigerate for at least one hour. together, and add the spices, rose water and baking soda,
Roll out the dough % inch [9 mm.] thick on a floured and the eggs. Knead the dough thoroughly and roll it out to
surface. Cut out doughnuts with a floured doughnut cutter. about V2 inch [I em.] thick. Cut the dough into 5-inch [13-
In oil heated to 375° F. [190° C.], fry a few doughnuts at a cm.] strips about 1 inch [2% em.] wide. Twist these into
time until golden brown, turning once. Drain the doughnuts various forms and fry them in hot lard until they are light
on paper towels. Roll them in the cinnamon-sugar coating. brown. Sift sugar over them.
ELISE W. MANNING (EDITOR) MRS. M. E. PORTER
COUNTRY FAIR COOKBOOK MRS. PORTER'S SOUTHERN COOKERY BOOK

157
DOUGHNUTS I PANCAKES AND WAFFLES

Jelly Doughnuts
An alternative technique for filling jelly doughnuts is demon-
strated on page 36.
To make 36 doughnuts
3 to 4 cups flour %to 1 liter
two Y4 oz. packagesactivedryyeastand Y4 cup two 7% g.
[50 mi.) tepid water, or two 3/s oz.
[18 g.) cakes fresh yeast
2 tbsp. sugar 30 mi.
1 cup tepid milk Y4 liter
1 egg Carnival Jelly Doughnuts
2 egg yolks 2 Faschingskrapfen
1 tsp. grated lemon peel 5 mi. An alternative technique for filling doughnuts is demonstrat-
1 tsp. salt 5 mi. ed on page 36.
To make about 30 doughnuts
4 tbsp. butter, softened 60ml.
about flour about
1Y2 cups jam 375 mi.
3Y2 cups 875 mi.
fat for deep frying
two 3/s oz. cakes fresh yeast, finely crumbled two 18 g.
vanilla sugar
1!3 cup sugar 75 mi.
If dry yeast is used, mix it with the tepid water and the 1 cup tepid milk Y4 liter
sugar, and let it stand for 10 minutes. If fresh yeast is used,
4 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted and cooled 60 mi.
cream it with the sugar to make a syrup. Add to the yeast the
milk, egg, egg yolks and lemon peel. Mix well. Add the salt until tepid
and enough flour to make a medium-firm dough, working in 6 egg yolks 6
the softened butter at the same time. Knead well until the l Oml.
2 tsp. grated lemon peel
dough is smooth a nd elastic. Place the dough in a bowl. Dust
the dough lightly with flour. Cover the bowl. Place it in a 3,4 tsp. salt 4 mi.
draft-free place until the dough doubles in bulk. 2 tbsp. rum 30 mi.
After the dough has risen, punch it down. Cover the bowl.
Let the dough rise a second time. 1 cup apricot jam Y4 liter
Shape doughnuts by pinching off egg-sized pieces of vegetable shortening and corn oil for
dough and forming each into a smooth, slightly flattened deep frying
ball. Place the balls on a floured towel. Let the balls rise
until all are doubled in size. confectioners' sugar
While the doughnuts are rising, heat the fat to 375° F .
[190o C.). Drop the doughnuts into the fat, two or three at a Add 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the sugar and% to% cup [150
time. Fry until the undersides are a deep golden brown; then to 175 ml.) of the flour to the tepid milk. Stir. Add the yeast.
turn and fry until the second sides are also well browned Cover the mixture with a kitchen towel. Let the mixture rise
about five minutes in all. ' in a draft-free place until bubbles appear on the surface.
Remove the doughnuts from the fat with a skimmer. While the sponge is rising, stir the cooled butter and
Drain them on paper towels or brown paper. sugar until creamy. Add the egg yolks, lemon peel and salt.
When the doughnuts are thoroughly cool, fill them by Add several spoons of flour and the yeast sponge. Beat well
squirting jam into their centers with a pastry bag fitted with with a wooden spoon. Add the rum and gradually beat in the
a long, narrow tube. Dust the doughnuts with vanilla sugar. remaining flour. If necessary, add more flour, but keep the
PAULA PECK dough soft. Beat the dough for about 10 minutes until it is
THE ART OF FINE BAKING satiny and shiny, and blisters form on its surface. Cover. Let
the dough rise in a draft-free place until it is more than
double its original bulk. Punch down the dough. Beat it with
a few strokes. Let it rise again for about 15 minutes.
Turn the dough over onto a well-floured pastry board.
With a lightly floured rolling pin, roll it out to less than 1;4
inch [6 mm.) thick. With a biscuit cutter 2lh inches [6 em.) in
158
diameter (or the rim of a glass), mark (but do not cut) rounds heavy ribbon when the beater is lifted from the bowl-after
close together in the dough. about 10 minutes. Keep the mixer on high speed and add the
Place about ¥2 teaspoon [2 ml.] of apricot jam on the cream, mixed with the lemon juice. Blend in the flour, mixed
centers of half of the rounds. Cut out the other rounds and set with the baking soda. Whip the egg whites and fold them
them on top of the ones dotted with jam. Press the edges into the batter. Cook promptly.
together. Then cut out the whole filled doughnut with a MADELEINE KAMMAN
slightly smaller biscuit cutter (or glass). Cover the dough- THE MAKING OF A COOK
nuts and let them rise for about 15 minutes.
While the doughnuts are rising, heat shortening in a
large kettle or a deep 10-inch [25-cm.] frying pan to 375° F.
[190° C.]. (The shortening will be less likely to burn if it is
combined with corn oil. Use two parts of shortening to one
part of corn oil.)
Place four or five doughnuts in the hot fat, leaving Pumpkin Griddlecakes
enough room for them to expand. They have to "swim" in
deep, hot fat to get a light band around their middle, the To make about ten 6-inch [15-cm . ]
distinctive mark of the faschingskrapfen. Cover the kettle or pancakes
frying pan for about one minute. Remove the cover and let 1 cup flour % liter
the doughnuts fry until golden brown on one side, then turn
Y2 cup yellow cornmeal 125 mi.
them over to fry the other side. Remove the doughnuts with a
slotted spoon. Transfer them to absorbent paper. 2 tsp. baking powder lO mi.
Doughnuts are at their best when eaten fresh, still luke- boiling water Y4 liter
1 cup
warm. Before serving, sprinkle them generously with con-
fectioners' sugar. Y4 cup cooked, well-drained and mashed 50 mi.
LILLY JOSS REICH pumpkin flesh
THE VIENNESE PASTRY COOKBOOK
%cup rnilk, sca lded and cooled until tepid 200 mi.
3
/.! tsp. salt 4 mi.
1 Y2 tsp. sugar 7 mi.
1 tsp. ground allspice 5 mi.
1 egg, beaten 1
'Pancakes and ~affles Combine the cornmeal and water, and let stand for five min-
The techniques for making pancakes and waffles are utes. Add the pumpkin and tepid milk, and stir until smooth.
demonstrated on pages 86-87. The recipe for basic pancakes Sift the flour, baking powder, salt, sugar and allspice togeth-
and waffles appears in Standard Preparations, page 166.
er, and add to the cornmeal mixture. Stir the beaten egg in.
Mix all well together. Drop the batter by ladlefuls onto a
well-greased hot griddle. Bake each cake until hubbies form
all over, then turn and bake the other side until golden and
crisp. Serve the cakes with maple syrup.
AMY B. W. MILLER AND PERSIS W. FULLER (EDITORS)
Cotton Cakes THE BEST OF SHAKER COOKING
To make twelve 4 -inch [I 0-cm.] pancakes
1 cup sifted flour Y4 liter
1 tsp. baking soda Sml.
4 eggs, 3 with the yolks separated from 4
the whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
2 tbsp. sugar 30 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
1 cup light cream Y4 liter
1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 15 mi.

With an electric mixer on high speed, beat one whole egg and
three egg yolks with the sugar and salt until they form a
159
PANCAKES AND WAFFLES

Oatmeal Pancakes Grandma's Hot Cakes

To make about twelve 4-inch [1 0-cm.] To make about twenty
pancakes 3-inch [8-cm.] pancakes
1 cup quick-cooking rolled oats Y4 liter 1 cup plus flour 280 mi.
2 tbsp.
Y2 cup flour 125 mi.
Y4 cup whole-g rai n cornmeal 50 mi.
2 tsp. baking powder 10ml.
Y2 cup rolled oats 125 mi.
1 cup hot water or milk Y4 liter
% tsp. baking powder 4 mi.
2 eggs, the yolks separated from the 2
whites, and the whites stiffly beaten 2 tsp. baking soda lO mi.
Y2 cup milk 125 mi. 2 cups butterm ilk Y2 liter
2 tbsp. corn oil 30 mi. % tsp. salt 4 mi.
1 tsp. salt 5ml. Y2 cup sou r cream 125 mi.
2 eggs 2
Soak the oats in the hot water or milk for about five minutes.
Beat the egg yolks with t he 'h cup [125 mi.] of cold milk and %cup sugar 150 mi.
the oil. Add to the oatmeal mixture. Combine the baking
powder, salt and flour, and stir into the oatmeal mixture. Pour the buttermilk into a 1 1;2-quart [1 lfz-liter] mixing bowl.
Fold in the stiffly beaten egg whites. Add the baking soda and salt. Add sour cream and stir until
GLADYS MANY AN
the mixture foams . Add the eggs and beat with a spoon until
THE COUNTRY SEASONS COOKBOOK they are mixed in. Add the rolled oats. Combine the flour,
sugar, baking powder a nd cornmeal, and sift them into the
buttermilk mixture; beat until th e flour lumps disappear.
Heat and oil a griddle or large, heavy frying pan. Pour on
batter by large tablespoonfuls. Keep the panca kes 1 inch
[2 1;2 em.] apart . When deep brown on one side, turn to brown
Whole-wheat Pancakes the other side. (Watch, th ey scorch easily!) Accompany with
To make about twenty 4 -inch syrup, honey, jam, jelly or preserves.
[10-cm.] pancakes IDA BAILEY ALLEN
BEST LOVED RECIPES OF THE AMERICAN PEOPLE
2 cups whole-wheat flour Y2 liter
3 tsp . baking powder 15 mi.
1 tsp. salt 5ml.
1 tbsp. brown sugar or honey 15ml.
3 e~gs, the yolks separated from the 3
w ites, the yolks beaten and the
whites stiffly beaten
Cornmeal Pancakes
To make about 40 small pancakes
2 cups milk Y2 liter
Y2 cup oil 125 mi.
1 cup yellow cornmea l Y4 liter
Y4 cup flour 50 mi.
Sift the flour with the baking powder, salt a nd su gar. If
you are u sing honey, add it to th e milk and oil. Beat the milk
Y4 tsp. baking soda 1 mi.
and oil into the egg yolks. Combine the yolks, milk and oil 1 tsp. salt 5m l.
with the dry ingredients until just blended , t hen fold in 1 cup boiling water % liter
the stiffly beaten egg whites. Cook on a greased griddle or
in a frying pa n. 2 tbsp. butter, melted 30 mi.
EDWARD ESPE BROWN 1 cup buttermil k % liter
THE TASSAJARA BREAD BOOK
1 egg, lightly beaten

Combine the cornmeal and salt. Slowly stir in the boiling

water and melted butter. Cover and let stand for 10 minutes.
Stir in the buttermilk and egg. Combine the flour and th e
160
baking soda, and stir quickly into the batter. The batter Sour-Cream Blueberry Pancakes
will be very thin.
Bake on a well-greased griddle over medium heat, using To make about twelve 4-inch [10-cm.] pancakes
a tablespoon [15 ml.) of batter for each cake. Stir the batter 1 cup sifted flour % liter
often a nd keep the griddle well greased. When each pancake
is golden brown underneath, turn it to brown the other side. 1 tbsp. baking powder 15 mi.
Turn only once. Serve with warmed maple syrup. salt 1 mi.
WILF AND LOIS COPPING
THE COUNTRY INNKEEPERS' COOKBOOK 2 tbsp. sugar 30 mi.
egg
1 cup milk % liter
% cu p sour cream 50 mi.
2 tbsp. butter, melted and cooled 30 mi.
Y2 cup fresh blueberries 125 mi.
Sift the flour, baking powder, salt and sugar together. Beat
Apple-Cheese Pancakes together the egg, milk and sour cream, and pour over t he dry
mixture. Beat until the batter is smooth. Stir in the butter
To make about twelve 4-inch and fold in the blueberries. Cook the pancakes on a greased
[10-cm . ] pancakes griddle until the edges bubble; turn once only.
%cup all-purpose flour, or Y2 cup 175 mi. AMY B. W. MILLER AND PERSIS W. FULLER (EDITORS)
[125 mi.) all-purpose flour and Y4 cup THE BEST OF SHAKER COOKING
[50 mi.) whole-wheat flou r
1Y2 cups grated firm-textured cooking apples 375 mi.
1 cup cottage or ricotta cheese, pressed %liter Yeasty Pancakes with Bacon
through a sieve
To make eight 10-inch [25-cm.] pancakes
1 tbsp. honey 15 mi.
4 cups flour 1 liter
1 tsp. fresh lemon juice 5 mi.
two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast or two two 7Y2 g.
1 tbsp. sunflower seeds or chopped almonds 15 mi. 3/s oz. [18 g.) cakes fresh yeast
Y2 tsp. ground cinnamon 2 mi. lib. sliced lean bacon Y2 kg.
Ys tsp. grated nutmeg or ground allspice Y2 mi. Y2 cup tepid wa ter 125 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt 2ml. 3Y2 cups tepid milk 875 mi.
4 eggs, the yolks separated from the 4 1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
whites
2 eggs, beaten 2
Mix all of the ingredients together except the egg whites. 3 tbsp. butter 45 mi.
Beat the egg whites until stiff and fold them into t he batter.
Drop the batter V<! cup [50 ml.) at a time onto a hot buttered maple syrup
griddle or skillet set over medium heat. Fry the pancakes on
Saute the bacon slices until they are brown. Drain on paper
both sides until brown. Serve with maple syrup, preserves, towels. Mix the yeast with the tepid water and let stand for
sour cream, yogurt, fresh fruit or cinnamon sugar. 10 minutes. Stir in the tepid milk. Combine the flour with
MOLLIE KATZEN
THE MOOSEWOOD COOKBOOK
the salt and sift together. Add the dry ingredients to the
yeast mixture a little at a time, stirring well after each addi-
tion. Beat in the eggs for a smooth batter.
Heat the butter in a 10-inch [25-cm.) skillet. Arrange
two or three strips ofbacon in the butter, and pour in enough
batter to cover the bottom of the skillet completely. Shake
the skillet occasionally as the pancake browns to loosen its
edges. Turn once to brown the other side. Repeat until all of
the bacon and batter have been used. Serve hot with syrup.
YVONNE YOUNG TARR
THE NEW YORK TIMES BREAD AND SOUP COOKBOOK

161
PANCAKES AN D WAFFLES

Sour-Cream Pancakes Buttermilk Pancakes

To make six 3-inch [8-cm.] pancakes To make about fourteen 4-inch [1 0-cm.]
pancakes
Y3 cup flour 75 mi.
l Y2 cups flour 375 mi.
l tsp. baking powder 5ml.
l Y2 tsp. baking powder 7 ml.
y,. tsp. salt l mi.
Y2 tsp . baking soda 2m l.
2 eggs 2
2 eggs 2
l cup sour cream y,. liter
l Y2 cups buttermilk 375 mi.
Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl. Beat the 3 tbsp. butter, melted 45 mi.
eggs with the sour cream and stir (but do not beat) into the
dry ingredients. Bake on an ungreased griddle. These are l tbsp. sugar l5ml.
delicious with sauteed apple rings. Y2 tsp. salt 2ml.
JANET E. C. WURTZBURGER (EDITOR)
PRIVATE COLLECTIONS: A CULINARY TREASURE Beat the eggs; add the remaining ingredients and beat with
a rotary beater until smooth. Grease a heated griddle. To
test, sprinkle the griddle with water; if the drops of water
jump around, the griddle is ready. Pour batter from a large
spoon. Turn the pancakes when puffed and full of bubbles.
Bake the other side of each pancake until golden brown.
WILF AND LOIS COPPING
Sarah's Sourdough Pancakes THE COUNTRY INNKEEPERS' COOKBOOK

Pancakes made with yeast need longer cooking at lower tem-

peratures than ordinary pancakes. These very flavorful pan-
cakes are moist inside and somewhat chewy; if you like them
drier, warm them in the oven for a few minutes.
To make twenty 4-inch [10-cm.]
pancakes
3 cups whole-wheat flour % liter
% oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 7 Y2 g.
[18 g.] cake fresh yeast Buttermilk Whole-wheat Waffles
Y2 tsp. baking soda 2 mi. The same amount of yogurt, thinned with a little water, can
about be used instead ofbuttermilk. For crisper waffies, reduce the
about tepid water
4 liter
3 flour to 2 cups ['h liter].
3 cups
l5ml. To make about four 9-inch [23-cm.]
l tbsp. plain yogurt square waffles
l tsp. salt 5 mi.
2% cups whole-wheat flour 550 mi.
Mix the yeast with 2 cups ['h liter] of tepid water. Add the 1 Y2 tsp. baking powder 7 mi.
yogurt and 2 cups of flour, beating this batter until very Y2 tsp . baking soda 2 ml.
smooth. Cover loosely and set aside overnight.
Next morning, stir together the remaining flour, the 2 eggs, the yolks sepa rated from the 2
soda and salt, and add them with 1 cup [~ liter] of tepid whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
water to the batter; let the mixture rest for 15 minutes. 2 tbsp. corn oil 30 mi.
Spoon onto a seasoned griddle preheated over medium heat,
immediately spreading the batter about ~ inch [6 mm.] 2 cups buttermilk Y2 liter
thick. Turn each pancake when the top is no longer shiny. Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
LAUREL ROBERTSON, CAROL FLINDERS AND BRONWEN GODFREY
LAUREL'S KITCHEN: A HANDBOOK FOR Beat the egg yolks with the oil and add the buttermilk. Com-
VEGETARIAN COOKERY & NUTRITION
bine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt, then
add the buttermilk mixture. Fold in the beaten egg whites.
GLADYS MANYAN
THE COUNTRYSEASONS COOKBOOK

162
 Buttermilk-Bran Waffles Rice Waffles
To make about three 9-inch [23-cm.] To make about four 9-inch [23-cm.]
square waffles square waffles
3
!4 cup flour 175 mi. 2Y2 cups flour 625 mi.
1 tsp. baking powder 5ml. 4 tsp. baking powder 20 mi.
Y2 tsp. baking soda 2ml. 3 e~gs, the yolks separated from the 3
% cup sugar 50 mi. w ites, and the whites stiffly beaten

% tsp. salt 1 tsp. salt 5ml.

1 mi.
1 cup bran cereal or bran buds Y4 liter 2 cups milk %liter

2 eggs, the yolks separated from the 2

Y3 cup raw unprocessed rice, boiled in 75 mi.
whites, and the whites stiffly beaten 2 cups [% liter] water for 15 minutes,
drained and cooled
1 cup buttermilk or sour milk Y4 liter
4 tbsp. butter, melted and cooled 60 mi.
6 tbsp. butter, melted and cooled 90 mi.
Beat the egg yolks until thick a nd lemon-colored. Sift to-
Preheat a waffie iron. Sift together the flour, baking powder, gether the flour, baking powder and salt. Add the flour mix-
baking soda, sugar and salt. Add the bran cereal or buds. ture and milk alternately to the egg yolks and beat until
Add the egg yolks, buttermilk and butter. Stir until well smooth. Stir in the rice. Add the melted butter and fold in the
blended. Fold the egg whites into the batter. Bake the bat- stiffiy beaten egg whites.
ter-in batches-in the waffie iron until golden brown. THE WOMAN'S AUXILIARY OF OLIVET EPISCOPAL CHURCH
THE JUNIOR LEAGUE OF FAYETTEVILLE, INC. VIRGINIA COOKERY -PAST AND PRESENT
THE CAROLINA COLLECTION

Cornmeal Waffles
To make about three 9-inch [23-cm. ]
square waffles Cheese Waffles
2 cups cornmeal, sifted Y2 liter To make six 9-inch [23-cm.] square
1 tbsp. flour 15ml. waffles
Y2 tsp. baking soda 2 mi. 2 cups flour Y2 liter
1 tsp. salt 5ml. 2 tsp. baking powder 10ml.
2 eggs, the yolks separated from 2 2 tbsp. sugar 30 mi.
the whites, the yolks beaten and the 1 tsp. salt 5ml.
whites stiffly beaten
1 tbsp. butter, melted and cooled
1 cup finely shredded Cheddar cheese Y4 liter
15 mi.
2 eggs, the yolks separated from the 2
2 cups milk Y2 liter whites, the yolks beaten and the
whites stiffly beaten
Sift together the cornmeal, flour, baking soda and salt. Mix
together the egg yolks, butter and milk. Add the sifted dry 1 Y2 cups milk 375 mi.
ingredients. Add last the stiffiy beaten egg whites. 4 tbsp. butter, melted 60 mi.
MRS. M. E. PORTER
MRS. PORTER'S NEW SOUTHERN COOKERY BOOK
Sift together into a bowl the flour, baking powder, sugar and
salt. Add the cheese. Stir in the beaten egg yolks, the milk
and butter. Fold in the stiffiy beaten egg whites. Bake in a
hot waffie iron.
THE SETTLEMENT COOKBOOK

163
STANDARD PREPARATIONS

braided loaf, a covered-pan loaf and for about twenty-four

3-inch [8-cm.] rolls.
Standard ~reparations about
To make 2 pounds [1 kg.] dough
flour about
5 cups 1 Y4 liters
y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 7Y2 g.
Basic Bread Dough [18 g.] cake fresh yeast
Wherever basic bread dough is called for in the recipe section about tepid milk about
of this book, this method can be followed, using any desired 1Y2 cups 375 mi.
flour-in the proportions shown on page 9.
The techniques of making basic bread dough are aemon- 1 tsp. salt 5ml.
strated on pages 14-15. The dough may be shaped and baked 3 tbsp. butter, softened 45 mi.
in any of the ways shown on pages 16-31. This recipe will
produce enough dough for two 8-inch [20-cm.] round loaves, Stir the yeast into %cup [50 ml.] of the tepid milk and leave
two 8'h-by-4'h-inch [21-by-11-cm.] rectangular loaves, two it in a warm place for about 10 minutes. Sift the flour and
14-inch [35-cm.] cylindrical loaves or approximately thirty salt into a bowl. Pour the yeast mixture and the remaining
3-inch [8-cm.] rolls. tepid milk into the flour and salt, and work in the softened
butter. The dough will be sticky. Turn the dough out onto a
To make about 2% pounds [1% kg . ] dough floured board, and knead it vigorously for 10 to 15 minutes,
about flour about or until the dough is elastic, smooth and glossy. The dough
6 cups 1 Y2 liters should be fairly firm; add more flour if necessary. Put the
dough into a clean, dry bowl, cover the bowl with plastic
package active dry yeast or 3Js oz. wrap or a damp cloth, and set it in a warm, draft-free place
[18 g.] cake fresh yeast until the dough has doubled in volume-about one to two
1 to 2 tsp. salt 5to10ml. and a half hours. The dough is ready when the insertion of a
finger leaves a dent that does not immediately fill out.
about tepid water about
Punch down the dough, knead it into a ball and let it rest for
2 cups Y2 liter about 10 minutes. It is now ready for shaping and baking.
In a small bowl or a measuring cup, mix the yeast with the
tepid water, and leave it to soften in a warm place for about
10 minutes. Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl. Pour the
yeast mixture into the flour. Mix the flour and liquid togeth-
er into a stiff, sticky dough, adding more flour or tepid water
if necessary. Transfer the dough to a work surface and knead Simple Egg-Bread Dough
the dough for about 15 minutes, until it is elastic and glossy.
Shape the dough into a ball and return it to a clean bowl. The techniques of making simple egg-bread dough are dem-
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rise in a onstrated on pages 34-35. This recipe will produce enough
warm, draft-free place until doubled in volume-a process dough for two 10-inch [20-cm.] ring loaves or two 81f2-by-
that may require from one to two and a half hours. The 4'h-inch [21-by-11-cm.] rectangular loaves. To make two of
dough is ready when the insertion of a finger into it leaves a the braided, egg-dough loaves known as challahs, reduce the
dent that does not immediately smooth out. quantity of milk to 34 cup [175 ml.].
Punch the dough down with a blow of your fist. Put the To make about 2% pounds [1 Y4 kg.] dough
dough on a work surface and cut it in half with a knife. about flour about
Knead each half into a ball, cover the balls with a cloth and 6 cups 1 Y2 liters
let them rise for 10 to 15 minutes. The dough is now ready for
shaping and baking. two Y4 oz. packages active dry yeast or two 7% g .
two 3/s oz. [18 g.] cakes fresh yeast
1 cup tepid milk Y4 liter
1 tbsp. sugar 15 mi.
Milk-and-Butter Dough 3 eggs 3
This dough produces bread with a tender crumb and a soft 16 tbsp. butter ( Y2 lb. [Y4 kg.]), softened 240 mi.
crust. The dough is particularly suitable for making loaves l Y2 tsp. salt 7 mi.
that are braided (pages 22-23) or baked in covered bread
pans (pages 24-25), and for creating rolls (pages 26-28). This Mix the yeast with the tepid milk, add the sugar, and leave
recipe will produce enough dough for one 12-inch [30-cm.] the mixture in a warm place for about 10 minutes, or until
164
slightly foaming. Then whisk in about 1 cup [\4 liter] of the thoroughly for about 10 minutes, or until it loses its sticki-
flour, adding it gradually until the mixture has the consis- ness and becomes smooth and elastic.
tency of a thick batter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and Break off walnut-sized pieces of the butter and, using the
leave it in a warm place until this yeast sponge has doubled pastry scraper or a spatula, fold them one at a time into
in volume-about one hour. the dough. Knead again until the dough is smooth. Put the
Break the eggs into the sponge and whisk them in. Add dough into a large bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, and leave
the softened butter in walnut-sized pieces. Gradually stir in it in a warm place for three to four hours, or until the dough
the rest of the flour a handful at a time, adding only enough has tripled in volume.
flour to give the dough a firm consistency. Lumps of butter Punch the dough down several times to expel the air,
will remain in the dough, but they will be incorporated dur- then knead it lightly in the bowl for two or three minutes.
ing the kneading. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the dough rise
Turn out the dough onto a floured work surface, and again. For best results, let the dough rise in the refrigerator
knead thoroughly for about 10 to 15 minutes, until the for six to eight hours or overnight. If that is not possible, let
dough is smooth, glossy and elastic. Gather the dough into a the dough rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk-
ball and place it in a clean, dry bowl. Cover with plastic wrap three to four hours -and then chill it for at least half an
and set the bowl in a warm place for about one and one half to hour before shaping it.
two and one half hours, until the dough has risen to three to
four times its previous volume. The dough is now ready for
shaping and baking.

Yeast-Dough Fillings
Any of these fillings is suitable for Danish pastries, filled
croissants or buns, or coffeecakes.
Almond paste. Blanch 2 cups [lh liter] of almonds in boil-
Rich Egg-Bread Dough ing water for a minute or so, then dra in the almonds and-
when cool enough to handle - slip off their skins. Grind the
The techniques of making rich egg-bread dough are demon- almonds in a nut grinder, or in a food processor operated in
strated on pages 40-43. This recipe produces enough dough short spurts. In a bowl, mix the ground almonds with lh cup
for about twelve 3-inch [8-cm.] brioches or two 8-inch [20- [125 ml.] of superfine sugar, 1 cup [':4 liter] of confectioners'
cm.] brioches. Instead of being baked in fluted brioche sugar and 2 teaspoons [10 ml.] of grated lemon peel. Add one
molds, the dough may be formed into a 10- to 12-inch [25- to lightly beaten egg white and stir to form a thick paste. Yield:
30-cm.] ring and the surface cut with scissors, following the about 2 cups [lh liter].
technique demonstrated on page 20. In this case, the bread is Apple and cinnamon. Simmer 2 cups [lh liter] of peeled,
known as a brioche couronne (crown brioche). cored and diced apples with 1 cup [\4 liter] of sugar,% cup
To make 2 pounds [1 kg.] dough [150 ml.] of water, 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of fresh lemon
juice, 1 teaspoon [5 ml.] of grated lemon peel and lh teaspoon
about flour about [2 ml.] of ground cinnamon. When the apples are soft, in
4 cups 1 liter about 10 minutes, press the mixture through a strainer or
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. lY2 g. mash it with a fork. Add 2 tablespoons of rum. If necessary,
[18 g .] cake fresh yeast cook the mixture over high heat until it is thick enough to
hold its shape in a spoon. Yield: about 2 cups [lh liter].
Y4 cup tepid water 50 mi. Cheese and egg. Sieve 1 cup [\4 liter] ofricotta or farmer
Y4 cup sugar 50 mi. cheese. Beat an egg into the cheese, then blend in 1Ys cups
1 tsp. salt
[325 ml.] of freshly grated Parmesan and a pinch of cayenne
5 mi.
pepper. Yield: about 2 cups [lh liter].
6 eggs 6 Poppy seed. Grind 2 cups [lh liter] ofpoppy seeds-lh cup
20 tbsp. unsalted butter, softened 300 mi. [125 ml.] at a time- in a food processor operated in short
spurts. In a saucepan, combine the poppy seeds with 1 cup [ ':4
Mix the yeast with the tepid water, and leave it for 10 min- liter] of milk and simmer for five minutes, stirring constant-
utes. Put the flour, sugar and salt into a bowl. Add the yeast ly. Stir in lh cup of sugar, 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of butter and
mixture and break in the eggs. Mix the eggs and yeast, lh teaspoon [2 ml.] of vanilla extract. Simmer for five min-
gradually pulling flour from t he sides of the well, until all utes, stirring constantly. Yield: about 2 cups [lh liter].
of the flour has been moisten ed. The dough should be very
soft and sticky.
Turn the dough out onto a cool, unfloured work surface.
Using your hands and a pastry scraper, knead the dough
165
STANDARD PREPARATIONS

Yeast Puff Dough Basic Pancakes or Waffles

The techniques of making yeast puff dough are shown on You may substitute 1h cup [125 ml.] of cornmeal, rolled oats,
pages 44-45 . This recipe will yield enough dou~h for ab~ut or rye, buckwheat or whole-wheat flour for lh cup of the all-
32 small croissants (page 46), about 12 Dam sh pastnes purpose flour. If you are making waffie batter, the eggs do
(pages 47-49) or one large coffeecake (pages 50-51) . not need to be separated; the waffies will still be light.
To make about 1% pounds [%kg . ] dough To make about fourteen 4-inch [10-cm.]
pancakes or three 9-inch [23-cm.] square waffles
about flour about
4 cups 1 liter 1 Y2 cups all-purpose flour 375 mi.
y4 oz. package a ctive dry yeast or 7% g. 1 tbsp. baking powder 15 mi.
oz. [ 18 g.] coke fresh yeast
3/s
3 eggs, the yolks separated from the 3
1 Y4 cups tepid milk 300 mi. whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
1 tsp. salt 5ml. 1 Y2 cups tepid milk 375 mi.
1 tsp. sugar 5 mi. 8 tbsp. butter, melted and cooled until tepid 120 mi.
16 tbsp. butter ( Y2 lb. [Y4 kg. ]), 4 tbsp. [60 mi.] 240 mi. 1 tbsp. sugar 15ml.
cut into pieces and 12 tbsp. [180 mi.] 1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
softened
Beat the egg yolks, and add t he milk and melted bu tter. Stir
Stir the yeast into t he tepid milk, and leave it for 10 minutes. to mix well. Combine the flour, baking powder, sugar and
Sift t he flour and salt into a bowl. Ma ke a well in the flour salt, a nd sift them together into a medium-sized mixing
and pour the yeast-and-milk mixture into it. Add the sugar bowl. Add the egg-yolk mixtur e, stirring only long enough to
and the butter pieces, and gradually incorporate flour from blend the ingredients. Fold in t he stiffiy beaten egg whites.
the well into the liquid until all of the flour is wet and the To make pancakes, lightly grease a large griddle or skil-
mixture h as become a soft, sticky dough. let with butter or flavorless oil and heat it until a drop of
Knead the dough for about five minutes, cover it with water flicked on to the surface sizzles immediately and evap-
plastic wrap, then let it rise at room temperature until dou- orates. Pour the batter from a pitcher, or ladle it, into the hot
bled in volume-from one a nd a half to two and a halfhours. pan to form pancakes. Bake over medium heat until bubbles
Punch down the dough to expel the air. Cover t he dough a nd form a nd begin to break on the surface-about one to two
let it rise again, either at room temperature for on.e ho':lr minutes. Immediately turn the pancakes and bake them for
and then in the refrigerator for one hour, or overmght m about one minute, or until the underside of each pancake is
the refrigerator. golden brown. Stir the batter from time to time so that the
Flatten the chilled dough on a cool, unfloured work sur- egg whites remain evenly distributed. Serve hot.
face. Roll out the dough into a rectangle about lh inch [ 1 em.] To make waffies in an electric waffie iron, preheat t he
thick and twice as long as it is wide. With a narrow-bladed closed iron to medium hot. Open th e iron and brush both
metal spatula, spread two t hirds of the rect_angle with. the halves of the grid with melted butter; pour or ladle enough
softened butter, leaving an unbuttered margm about% mch batter onto the center portion of t he lower grid to cover about
[2 em.] wide. Fold the unbuttered t hird of t he dough over two thirds of its surface. Immediately close the iron and bake
ha lf of t he buttered section, then fold the other buttered the waffie for three minu tes, or until the iron stops emitting
section over the top. The dough will thus form three layers, steam. Remove the waffie and serve it hot.
with two layers of butter between them. With a rolling pin, To make waffies in a stove-top iron, preheat the closed
press the edges of the dough packages to seal in the butter. iron over a medium-hot bur ner for about five minutes on
Turn t he dough package so that a folded side faces towa7d each side. To test the heat of the grids, flick a drop of water
you a nd roll out the dough lightly: Too much pressure w1ll onto them; the water should sizzle immediately and evapo-
force the butter out. Roll the dough until the rectangle is rate. Brush both halves of the grid with melted butter; pour
about twice as long as it is wide. or ladle enough batter onto the center of the lower grid to
Fold the dough into thirds again. Wrap it in plastic wrap cover about two thirds of t he surface, close the iron immedi-
and refrigerate it for one hour. Place th~ rectangle o~ the ately, a nd bake the waffie over medium heat for about ~alf
work surfa ce with one of its short sides facmg you. Roll1t out a minute on each side. Remove the waffie from the 1ron
lengthwise. Fold as before, wrap it in plast.ic wrap .and re- and serve it hot .
turn it to the refrigerator . Repeat the turnmg, rolhng and Fruit pancakes or waffles. Substitute Y2 cup [125 ml. ] of a
folding twice more, refrigerating the .d ough after .each fold- cooked fruit puree, such as applesauce or pureed apricots, for
ing. The dough is now ready for shapmg and bakmg. lh cup of th e milk. Add the puree with the egg yolks.
Spiced pancakes or waffles. Substitute lh cup of molasses
for lh cup of th e milk. Add the molasses-along with a pinch
each of ground ginger and allspice-with the egg yolks.
166
 Modern Sourdough Starter
f rr zrr This starter can be used interchangeably with traditional
sourdough starter (left) in any recipe calling for a sourdough
starter. It can be made with any type of flour or combination
Traditional Sourdough Starter of flours. The starter must be stored and replenished by the
This starter can be substituted for modern sourdough starter methods described for traditional sourdough starter.
(right) in any recipe that calls for a sourdough starter. It can To make about 2 Y2 cups [625 mi. ]starter
be prepared with any flour or combination of flours.
2 cups flour Y2 liter
To make about 3 cups [ 3/4 liter] starter
Y4 oz. package active dry yeast or 3/s oz. 7% g.
2 cups flour Y2 liter [18 g.] cake fresh yeast
1 medium-sized potato 1Y2 cups tepid water 375 mi.
about water about
In a large bowl or jar, mix the yeast with the water, and let
2 cups Y2 liter the mixture stand in a warm place for about 10 minutes.
Y2 cup sugar 125 mi. Sprinkle the flour onto the yeast mixture a nd whisk it in to
form a thick batter. It is not essential for the batter to be
Boil the potato in water to cover for 20 minutes or until smooth: The action of the yeast will break down any lumps.
tender. Pour the cooking liquid into a 2-cup [¥.!-liter] mea- Cover it with plastic wrap and let the batter stand in a
suring cup and let it cool until tepid. Peel the potato and warm (80° to 85° F. [25° to 30° C.]) place for about 24 hours, or
mash it thoroughly in a bowl. If necessary, add enough tepid until it is frothy.
water to the cooled cooking liquid to make 2 cups of liquid. The starter can be used at once, but it will have a richer
Stir the cooking liquid, flour and sugar into the mashed flavor if it is left in a warm place for three days longer.
potato to make a thick batter.
Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and enclose it in a large
towel or blanket. Set the starter mixture in a warm (80° to
85° F. (25° to 30° C.]) place-next to a radiator, for example,
or near the switched-on oven light of an electric oven or the
pilot light of an unlighted gas oven-for 24 hours before
uncovering and checking it. The mixture is ready to use Rye Sourdough Starter
when it is bubbly and has a sour smell; if liquid has formed This starter must be stored and replenished by the methods
on the top it should be stirred in before use. If the mixture is used for traditional sourdough star ter (left) .
unchanged, rewrap it and return it to the warm place for
another 24 to 48 hours. If the mixture has turned reddish or To make about 2 Y2 cups [625 mi. ] starter
orange in color, throw it away and make a new batch. 2 cups rye flour Y2 liter
Storing starter: Starter that is not used immediately 3
should be covered tightly with plastic wrap, or poured into a package active dry yeast or /s oz. 7Y2 g.
1-quart [1-liter] Mason jar with a tight lid, and refrigerated. [18 g.] cake fresh yeast
The starter will keep in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. 1 Y2 cups tepid water 375 mi.
Before using it, leave the starter at room temperature until
small onion, peeled and halved
it bubbles up-from four to six hours-then stir it well be-
fore removing the amount required. In a 1¥.!- or 2-quart [1 Vz- or 2-liter] ceramic bowl or other
Replenishing starter: After each use, replace the amount large, nonmetallic container, mix the yeast with 1 cup [14
of starter used with an equal amount ofpaste made by com- liter] of tepid water. Let the mixture stand for 10 minutes.
bining equal parts offlour and tepid water. (You will need % Then whisk in 1 cup of the flour, beating until no lumps
cup [175 ml.] of flour and about ¥.! cup [125 ml.] of water to remain. Add the onion, cover the mixture loosely with a
make 1 cup [14 liter] of the paste.) Beat the paste into the cloth and let it stand in a warm (80° to 85° F. [25° to 30° C.])
starter with a wooden spoon, cover the container and set it in place for 24 hours.
a warm place until the mixture bubbles up-from six to 24 Discard the onion. Whisk in ¥.!cup [125 ml.] of tepid wa-
hours. The replenished starter will then be ready for use, or ter and the remaining cup of flour. Cover the mixture and let
it can be refrigerated for two weeks. it stand for three days; the starter is ready to be used when it
Starter that is not used within two weeks will become is bubbly and has a sour smell. If the mixture is flat or has
rancid unless it is replenished. To do this, leave the starter at changed color, it cannot be used and must be discarded.
room temperature until it bubbles up, then stir it well, pour
off half of the mixture and add an equal volume of flour-
water paste. Cover and set it in a warm place until it bubbles
up again. Return it to the refrigerator.
167
Recipe Index sour-cream, pancakes, 161 Chocolate rolls, 131 yeast puff, 166
Boston brown bread, 148 Christmas bread, 124; Doughnuts, 154-159
Braided loaf: Bremen, 125 Doughnuts:
All recipes in the index that follows ore Swiss, 103 C hristmas wreath, saffron, 124 carnival jelly, 158
listed by their English titles except in Viennese, 125 Cinnamon: French, 154
cases where o bread of foreign origin, Bran: apple and, filling, 165 jelly, 158
such as zwieback, is universally buttermilk-, waffles, 163 muffins, 149 Maine buttermilk, 156
recognized by its source nome. Entries muffins, 137 and nutmeg crullers, 157 maple-frosted, 155
also ore organized by the mo;or Breads without yeast, 136- 153 Philadelphia, buns, 130 sour-cream, 156
ingredients specified in the recipe titles Bremen C hristmas bread, 125 -sugar coating, 157 spiced sour-cream, 157
and - in the case of specialty-groin Brentford rolls, 105 topping, 149 spicy, 157
breads -by the type of flour or meal Breton butter loaf, 134 Coffeecoke, yeast, 129 yeast potato, 155
used. Foreign recipes ore listed by Brioche: Cold Harbour balls, 104 yogurt, 156
country or region of origin. Recipe cheese, 113 Cool rise brioches, 101 Drop ca kes, rye, 138
credits appear on pages 173-175. coolrise, 101 Corn bread: Dutch recipe: brown bread, 93
Neapolitan rustic, 114 carrot, 152
Riom, 101 green chili and cheese, 153 Easter bread:
Brown bread, Boston, 148 Italian sweet, 153 Italian, with cheese, 112
Buckw heat flotbread, 109 Josephine's batter bread, 152 Russian, 127
Bulgarian recipe : cheese bread, 132 maple, 152 Egg:
A berdeen butter rolls, 135 Buns: skillet, and corn sticks, 151 bread Susanne, 100
Algerian recipe: orange-flavored burger, 97 steamed togus loaf, 153 cheese and, filling, 165
loaves, 12 1 C helsea, 135 Corn pone: rich, -bread dough, 165
Almond: Corsican raisin and walnut, 127 cornmeal apple pone, 152 simple, -bread dough, 164.
a nd cherry topping, 124 hot cross, 122 grandmother's, 150 See also Brioche
chopped, topping, 126 Marston, 128 Corn sticks: skillet corn bread and, English muffins, 105;
cream filling, 134 Philadelphia cinnamon, 130 151 sourdough, 108
filli ng, 133 raspberry, 148 Corncake: spider, 151 Enriched yeast breads, 100- 106
paste filling, 165 a rich Scotch, 128 Cornmeal:
topping, 134 Burger buns, 97 apple pone, 152 Fennel rings, 117
Anodomo bread, 91; Bury simnel ca ke, 147 dodgers, dabs or, puffs, 151 Filling:
cranberry-orange, 122 Butter: pancakes, 160 almond, 133
Anchovy loaf, 120 Aberdeen, rolls, 135 waffles, 163. almond cream, 134
Apple: Breton, loaf, 134 See also Anadama bread; Corn apple and cinnamon, 165
brea kfast rolls, 144 cake, 126 bread; Corn pone; Johnnycakes cheese and egg, 165
-cheese pancakes, 161 horns, 104 Corsica n raisin and walnut buns, 127 Chelsea-bun, 135
and cinnamon filling, 165 Italian flatbread with, 115 Cotton cakes, 159 nut, 126
cornmeal, pone, 152 milk-and-, dough, 164 Country flatbread, 114 poppy seed, 165
spiced, bread, 145 Buttermilk: C rackling : raisin, 133
Apricot: -bran waffles, 163 Neapolitan, flatbread, 120 yeast-dough, 165
bread, 145 Moine, doughnuts, 156 Portuguese, loaf, 120 Finnish recipes:
carrot-, steamed bread, 145 oaten bread, 138 Cra nberry: barley flatbread, 141
Austrian recipes: pancakes, 162 blueberry or, muffins, 146 buckwheat flotbreod, 109
carnival jelly doughnuts, 158 whole-wheat waffles, 162 nut bread, 146 oat flour bread, 91
Viennese braided loaf, 125 -orange onodomo bread, 122 Flannel crumpets, 105
Caraway: C ream: Flapjack bread, Yemenite pita or, 96
Babka, 129 crustless, bread, 115 almond, filling, 134 Flatbread:
Bacon, yeasty panca kes with, 161 salted, topping, 132 vanilla-, bread, 143. barley, 141
Bagels, Jewish, 103 Carnival jelly doughnuts, 158 See also Sour cream brown oatmeal bread, 139
Baking powder biscuits, 136 Carrot: Crescent rolls, salted, 132 buckwheat, 109
Banana: Jamaican, bread, 146 -apricot steamed bread, 145 Crispies, 126 buttermilk oaten bread, 138
Barley: corn bread, 152 C roissants: filled, Viennese-style, 134 country, 114
flotbreod, 141 Chappoti, 139 C rullers, cinnamon and nutmeg, 157 fried, 96
Hertfordshire, bread, 95 C heese: C rumpets, 97 granny's oatcakes, 139
Basic bread dough, 164 apple-, pancakes, 161 flannel, 105 Italian, w ith butter, 115
Basic pancakes or waffles, 166 bread, 111 Crustless caraway bread, 115 Italian, with ham, 119
Basic yeast breads, 90-99 brioche, 113 Currant-raisin bread, 121 Navajo fry bread, 140
Batter bread: Josephine's, 152 Bulgarian, bread, 132 Neapolitan crackling, 120
Beaten biscuits, 137 cheesy bread, 143 Danish recipes: Norman, 140
Beer bread, 107 and egg filling, 165 beer bread, 107 oiled, 116
Biscuits: green chili and, corn bread, 153 pastry, 133 philpy, 141
baking powder, 136 Italian Easter bread with, 112 Dierdre's favorite walnut popovers, rye drop cakes, 138
beaten, 137 pepper, loaf, 112 142 sage, 116
sage, C hicoutimi, 143 popovers, 142 Dill : no-knead, bread, 114 sugar, 123
Sister Olive Wheeler's soda, 137 sheep's-milk, bread, 113 Dodgers, dabs or cornmeal puffs, 151 Telemark, 14 1.
sweet potato, 144 waffles, 163 Doug h: See also Chappoti; Johnnycakes;
Block rye bread, 111 C helsea buns, 135; basic bread, 164 Porotha; Pita
Blanche Fronkehauser's old- filling, 135 milk-a nd-butter, 164 Flavored yeast breads, 107-131
fashioned oatmeal bread, 91 Cherry: almond and, topping, 124 rich egg-bread, 165 French bread:
Blueberry: C hili: green, and cheese corn bread, simple egg-bread, 164 Monsieur Montfort's, 90
or cranberry muffins, 146 153 yeast-, fillings, 165 sourdough, 110

168
French doughnuts, 154 Indian recipes: Nut: stuffing, 144
French recipes: stuffed porothos, 144 cranberry, bread, 146 sweet, biscuits, 144
anchovy loaf, 120 whole-wheat buttered griddle filling, 126 yeast, doughnuts, 155
Breton butter loaf, 134 bread, 140 ground raisin, bread, 128 Pretzels:
cheese brioche, 113 whole-wheat griddle breads, 139 roll, 126 salted, 99
chocolate rolls, 131 Irish spice bread, 131 Spanish, bread, 150 soft, 98
Corsican raisin and walnut buns, Italian recipes : Nutmeg: cinnamon and, crullers, 157 sweet, 123
127 country flatbread, 114 Puff dough, yeast, 166
egg bread Susanne, 100 Easter bread with cheese, 112 O at flour bread, 91 Pumpernickel bread, 107
filled croissants, Viennese-style, fennel rings, 117 Oatcakes, granny' s, 139 Pumpkin:
134 flatbread with butter, 115 Oatmeal: bread, 117
fruit bread, 129 flatbreod with hom, 119 Blanche Frankehauser's old- griddlecakes, 159
mashed potato bread, 117 fried flatbread, 96 fashioned, bread, 91 muffins, 147
milk rolls, 104 homemade, milk bread, 92 brown, bread, 139
Monsieur Montfort' s French bread, Neapolitan crackling flatbread, 120 pancakes, 160 Raisin:
90 Neapolitan pepper wreaths, 116 Oats (rolled): Corsican, and walnut buns, 127
Norman flatbread, 140 Neapolitan rustic brioche, 114 bread with, 95 currant-, bread, 121
pumpkin bread, 117 oiled flatbread, 116 buttermilk oaten bread, 138 filling, 133
Riom brioche, 101 sage flotbread, 116 Oiled flatbread, 116 ground, nut bread, 128
Sally Lunn cake, 102 sweet corn bread, 153 O ld maids, 106 Raspberrybuns, 148
spice bread, 149 Onion: Rice bread, 138;
split rolls, 98 Jamaican recipe: banana bread, 146 sourdough, bread, 11 0 the hermit's, 95
sugar flotbreod, 123 Jelly: walnut and, bread, 11 9 philpy, 141
walnut loaf, 130 carnival, doughnuts, 158 Orange: Rice waffles, 163
walnut and onion bread, 119 doughnuts, 158 Algerian, -flavored loaves, 121 A rich Scotch bun, 128
Fried flotbread, 96 Jewish recipe: bagels, 103 cranberry-, anodomo bread, 122 Riom brioche, 10 1
Fruit: Johnnycakes: Rolls :
bread, 129 grandmother' s corn pone, 150 Pancakes: Aberdeen butter, 135
pancakes or waffles, 166 milk jonny cakes, 150 apple-cheese, 161 apple breakfast, 144
Funnel cakes, 154 scalded-meal jonny cakes, 150 basic, 166 Brentford, 105
Josephine's batter bread, 152 buttermilk, 162 chocolate, 131
G erma n recipes: cotton ca kes, 159 milk, 194
block rye bread, 111 Koulich, 127 cornmeal, 160 nut, 126
bread with rolled oats, 95 fruit, 166 salted crescent, 132
Bremen Christmas bread, 125 M aple: oatmeal, 160 split, 98
buttercoke, 126 corn bread, 152 pumpkin griddlecakes, 159 yam, 118
crustless caraway bread, 115 -frosted doughnuts, 155 Sarah's sourdough, 162 Rusks, 106;
household bread, 109 frosting, 155 sour-cream, 162 sweet, 147
rusks, 106 Marston buns, 128 sour-cream blueberry, 161 Russian recipe: Easter bread, 127
salted pretzels, 99 Mashed potato bread, 117 spiced, 166 Rye :
sheep's-milk cheese bread, 113 Mexican recipe: tortillas, 14 1 whole-wheat, 160 beer bread, 107•
sourdough onion bread, 11 0 Middle Eastern recipes: yeasty, with bacon, 161. block, bread, 111
sweet pretzels, 123 pocket bread, 96 See also Hot cakes drop cakes, 138
Swiss braided loaf, 103 Yemenitepito or flapjack bread, 96 Pancakes and waHies, 159-163 sourdough onion bread, 11 0
Ulm bread, 123 Milk: Porotho, 140; sourdough starter, 167
yeast bread, 100 -and-butter dough, 164 stuffed, 144 Swedish tin loaves, 92
Graham bread, 138 homemade Italian, bread, 92 Pastry, Danish, 133
Grandma's hot cakes, 160 jonny cakes, 150 Pepper: Saffron Christmas wreath, 124
Grandmother's corn pone, 150 rolls, 104 cheese loaf, 112 Sage:
G ranny's oatcakes, 139 -and-sugar glaze, 131 Neapolitan, wreaths, 116 biscuits Chicoutimi, 143
The Grant loaf, 94 M illet: wheat-germ-, bread, 92 Philadelphia cinnamon buns, 130 flatbread, 116
G reek recipe: sweet rusks, 147 Modern sourdough starter, 167 Philpy, 141 Solly Lunn, 102;
G reen chili and cheese corn bread, Molasses triticale bread, 108 A picnic loaf, 113 French, coke, 102
153 Monkey bread, 100 Pineapple muffins, 148 Salt:
Griddle breads: Monsieur M ontfort's French bread, 90 Pinwheel bread, 93 -rising bread, 136
whole-wheat, 139 M rs. Macnab' s scones, 142 Pita, 96; Swedish, sticks, 115
whole-wheat buttered, 140 Muffins: Yemenite, or flapjack bread, 96 Salted:
Griddlecake, 148; blueberry or cranberry, 146 Pocket bread, Middle Eastern, 96 caraway topping, 132
pumpkin, 159 bran, 137 Polish recipes: crescent rolls, 132
cinnamon, 149 nut roll, 126 pretzels, 99
Hom, Italian flatbread with, 119 English, 105 yeastcoffeecoke, 129 Sarah's sourdough pancakes, 162
The hermit's rice bread, 95 pineapple, 148 Pone: Scolded-meal jonny cakes, 150
Hertfordshire barley bread, 95 pumpkin, 147 cornmeal apple, 152 Scandinavian recipe: spiced sour-
Hot cokes, grandma's, 160 sourdough English, 108 grandmother's corn, 150 cream doughnuts, 157
Hot cross buns, 122 triticale, 137 Popovers, 142; Scones, Mrs. Macnab's, 142
Household bread, German, cheese, 142 Sheep's-milk cheese bread, 113
109 N avajo fry bread, 140 Dierdre' s favorite walnut, 142 Sister Olive Wheeler's soda
Huffkins, 98 No-knead dill bread, 114 Poppy seed filling, 165 biscuits, 137
Hungarian recipe: salted crescent Norman flatbread, 140 Portuguese recipe: crackling loaf, 120 Skillet corn bread and corn sticks, 151
rolls, 132 Norwegian recipe: Telemork Potato: Soda:
Hunting bread, 130 flatbread, 141 mashed, bread, 117 bread (white), 136

169
 Sister Olive Wheeler's, biscuits, 137 Spicy doughnuts, 157 Vanilla-cream bread, 143 griddle breads, 139
Soft pretzels, 98 Spider corncoke, 151 Vegetable bread, 118. homemade Italian milk bread, 92
Sour cream: Split rolls, 98 See also Potato; Pumpkin; Zucchini pancakes, 160
blueberry pancakes, 161 Sprouted wheat, 94; Viennese braided loaf, 125 Sarah's sourdough pancakes, 162
doughnuts, 156 bread, 94 spiced apple bread, 145
pancakes, 162 Standard preparations, 164-167 W affles: stuffed porathas, 144
spiced, doughnuts, 157 Steamed bread: basic, 166 walnut, bread, 119.
Sourdough: Boston brown bread, 148 buttermilk whole-wheat, 162 See a/so Graham bread
block rye bread, 111 carrot-apricot, 145 buttermilk-bran, 163 Wreath:
bread, 108 Steamed togus loaf, 153 cheese, 163 Neapolitan pepper, 116
buckwheat flotbreod, 109 Stuffed parathas, 144 cornmeal, 163 saffron Christmas, 124
English muffins, 108 Sugar flotbreod, 123 fruit, 166
French bread, 110 Swedish recipes: rice, 163 Yom rolls, 118
German household bread, 109 Christmas bread, 124 spiced, 166 Yeast:
onion bread, 11 0 salt sticks, 115 Walnut: bread, 100
Sarah's, pancakes, 162 tin loaves, 92 Corsican raisin and, buns, 127 coffeecoke, 129
Sourdough starter: Sweet potato biscuits, 144 Dierdre's favorite, popovers, 142 -dough fillings, 165
modern, 167 Sweet pretzels, 123 loaf, 130 potato doughnuts, 155
rye, 167 Sweet rusks, 147 and onion bread, 119 puff dough, 166
traditional, 167 Swiss braided loaf, 103 whole-wheat bread, 119 yeasty pancakes with bacon, 161
yogurt, 110 Wheat: Yeast puH breads, 132-135
Spanish recipe: nut bread, 150 Telemark flotbreod, 141 sprouted, 94 Yemenitepito or flapjack bread, 96
Spice: Tortillos, 141 sprouted-, bread, 94 Yogurt:
French, bread, 149 Traditional sourdough starter, 167 Wheat-germ-millet bread, 92 doughnuts, 156
Irish, bread, 131 Triticale: Whole-wheat: sourdough starter, 110
Spiced: molasses, bread, 108 buttered griddle bread, 140 Yorkshire cokes, 106
apple bread, 145 muffins, 137 buttermilk, waffles, 162
pancakes or waffles, 166 Dutch brown bread, 93 Zucchini bread, 118
sour-cream doughnuts, 157 U lm bread, 123 the Grant loaf, 94 Zwieback, 106

General Index/ See also French bread loaf, 18; freezing, 7; history of Breakfast bread: blueberry
Baking powder: in banana bread, breodmoking, 5-7; humidifying oven, muffins, 80-81; brioche, 40-43;
Glossary 72, 82-B3; biscuits, 80-81 ; 16; kneading dough, 14-15; looped croissants, 44-46; Danish pastry, 47-
composition, 7, 73, 80; in corn sticks, pretzels, 30-31; mixing dough, 14-15; 49; filled coffeecokes, 50-51;
88; history of, 7; as leavening agent, notched cylindrical loaf, 19-20; pita, pancakes, 84-85; waffles, 86-87;
Included in this index to the cooking
73, 80; in pancakes, 84-85; ratio of, 29; rising and proofing, 13, 14; rolls, yeast doughnuts, 36-37
demonstrations ore definitions, in italics,
to flour, 80; in waffles, 86-87 12, 26-28; round loaves, 16-17; Brioche: baking in o mold with o
of special culinary terms not explained
Baking soda: history of, 6-7; as shaping dough, 16- 17; size of pan to topknot, 40-43; folding in butter, 40;
elsewhere in this volume. The Recipe
leavening agent, 73, 78; leavening use, 24; storing, 7; substituting flours, glozing, 42; kneading on o marble
Index begins on page 168. slob, 41; preliminary dough, 40;
Irish soda bread, 78-79; lightening 8-9; tapered cylindrical loaf, 21. See
crumpets with, 56; neutralizing with on also Enriched yeast bread; Flavored punching down dough, 40, 41; ratio
acid, 73,78 yeast bread; Yeast dough of flour to butter and eggs, 40; rising
All-purpose flour: characteristics, Banana bread, 72; blending Batters. See Nonyeost batter; under refrigeration, 40, 4 1; shaping
6, 8; combining with other flours, 8; in ingredients in small botches, 82; Yeast-leavened batter dough, 42-43; three risings, 40
Irish soda bread, 78-79; mixing and leavened with baking powder, 82-83; Bel Paese or butter cheese: o Buckwheat flour: characteristics,
kneading a basic yeast dough, 14-15; preventing toughness, 82 type of uncooked, semisoft, mild- 8-9; in pancakes, 84-85; in
in pancakes, 84 -85; storing, 8; Banneton: basket to encase dough flavored Italian cheese, obtainable at sourdough bread, 54-55; substituting,
substitutions for, 8-9 while rising, 54-55 cheese specialty stores and some 8-9
Almond paste: filling Danish Barley flour: characteristics, 8-9; supermarkets. Butter: in enriched bread dough, 33,
pastries with, 47-48; mixing, 47 substituting, 8-9 Biscuits: fat in, 80; leavened by 34; glozing rolls with, 28; and gluten,
Altitude: effect of, 7 Bashing: of cottage loaves, 18 baking powder, 80-81; working 24, 33; ratio of, in brioche, 40;
Anchovies, salt: whole cleaned Basic yeast bread: baguette (long dough, 81 softening, 35; in yeast puff dough, 33,
headless fish, pocked in salt. Sold in loaf) of French bread, 22-23; baked in Blueberries: flouring, before 44
cons or by weight at markets that pan with a hinged lid, 24-25; baking, adding to muffin batter, 80 Buttermilk: in corn sticks, 88; in
specialize in French, Greek or Italian 16-17; baking bread on carbon-steel Braided loaf: glozing, 23; mode doughnuts, 36; in Irish soda bread,
foods. sheets, 16; baking on quarry tiles in with three strands, 22-23 78; neutralizing baking soda, 78
Bagels, 58-59; adding milk, 58; egg the home oven, 16, 17; basic dough Bran: described, 7; separating, 5; in Caramel: syrup for sticky buns, 38,
gloze, 59; enriching basic yeast baked in a loaf pan, 24-25; braided whole-wheat flour, 60 39
dough with butter and egg white, 58; loaf, 22-23; bread sticks, 30, 31; Bread flour: characteristics, 6, 8; Cast- iron cookware: for corn
poaching, 58; shaping rings, 59 cooling, 7, 17, 24; effect of altitude storing, 8; substitutions for, 8-9 sticks, 88; for flotbreods, 74- 75; and
Baguette: rolling out and shaping a and weather, 7; effect of materials Bread sticks: cooling with coarse Irish soda bread, 78-79; for
freestanding loaf, 22-23; sloshing, 23. used for baking, 24; English cottage salt, 31; cutting strips for, 30, 31 johnnycakes, 76-77; popover mold,

170
78-79; seasoning pons, 76; waffle crisp bottom, 16; dusting dough with olso Egg-a nd-butter dough; Yeast Fruits: adding puree to bread
iron, 86-87 flour, 26; formed during baking, 16; puff dough dough, 62; adding puree to quick
Chappatis, 74-75; cooking in two forming in yeast rolls, 26; making o Envelopes (Danish pastry), 47 bread bolter, 82; dried, in Scotch bun,
stages, 75; puffing up by steam, 73, crust crisp, 24, 60; seasoning crust Fats: incorporating in egg-and- 68-69; preparing coffeecoke filling
74 with salted water, 27; sloshing dough butter dough, 34; inhibiting gluten from fresh and dried, 50; puree, in
Cheddar cheese: incorporating to obtain o secondary crust, 16, 19, development, 33; softening gluten in waffle bolter, 86; simmering fresh
into bread dough, 66-67 21 flour, 24 fruits to make o gloze, 50
Cheese: bread, 66-67; lot content of Cylindrical loaves, 19-21; Filling: almond paste, for Danish Garam masala: o mixture of
and effect on rising dough, 66; filling decorating with seeds, 21; developing pastry, 47, 48; cheese, for Danish ground spices, usually peppercorns,
braided coffeecake with ricotto and gluten in, 19; notching a loaf with pastry, 49; coffeecoke, 50; jam, for coriander, cumin, cloves, cinnamon and
Parmesan, 50; filling Danish pastry scissors, 20; shaping a blunt-ended Danish pastry twists, 48; ricotta and cardamom. Obtainable from Indian-
cockscombs, 49; flavoring breads loaf, 19-20; slashing to reveal o Parmesa n cheeses, in braided food specialty stores.
with, 66; incorporating into dough, secondary crust, 19, 21; tapering o coffeecake, 50; for sticky buns, 38 Ghee: the Indian version of clarified
66, 67; Muenster, in picnic loaf, cylinder, 21 Flatbread: choppotis, 74-75; from butter. To moke it, start with ot least
70-71 Danish pastries, 47-49; almond cornmeal, 76; flavored with sage, 66, one third more butter thon the amount
Cheese bread, 66-67; dividing with paste filling, 47, 48; cheese filling, 49; 67; flours used to make, 74; of ghee desired. Melt the butter over
a string, 66 chilling dough, 47; cockscombs, 47, johnnycake, 76-77; kneading, 74; low heat without browning it. Then
Chocolate: melting and adding to 49; envelopes, 47; glaze, 47, 48, 49; parothos, 74; pito, 29; stuffing with bring the butter too boil. When it
pumpernickel bread, 64-65 handling dough, 47; jam filling, 48; pureed vegetables, 74 foams, reduce the heot to very low.
Cloverleaf rolls, 28 mixing almond paste filling, 47; Flavored yeast bread, 53, 54-71; Simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes.
Coarse salt: on bread sticks and pinwheels, 47, 48; twists, 47, 48-49 adding baking soda too yeast- Strain the dear liquid ghee through o
pretzels, 31; sprinkled on herb bread, Deep frying: yeast doughnuts, 36- leavened bolter, 56; adding Cheddar sieve lined with four foyers of
67 37 cheese, 66, 67; adding fruit or dampened cheesecloth. Discord the milk
Coarse sugar: o specially refined, Dough. See Egg-and-butter dough; vegetable purees, 62-63; adding solids.
Iorge crystalline form of sugar designed Milk-and-butter dough; Nonyeast ingredients to dough, 53; adding Glaze: beaten egg-and-water, 26,
for use in decorations. Obtoinoble from dough; Sourdough bread; molasses, 53, 64; adding row fruits 27, 35, 67; egg-white-and-water, 26,
baking-supply stores ond some Unleavened dough; Yeast dough; and vegetables, 62-63; adding whole 65; egg-yolk-and-water, 23, 26, 28,
gourmet-food specialty stores. Yeast puff dough grains, 62; bagels, 58-59; cheese 42,46,47,48,49,51,58,59,70;
Cockscombs (Danish pastry), Doughnuts: cutting, 36, 37; deep bread, 66-67; combining many and made with fresh fruit, 60; milk, cream
47,49 frying, 36-37; dusting with sugar, 37; various ingredients, 64; crumpets, 56- or butter, 26, 28; salted water, 26, 27
CoHeecake, 32; braided and filled flavorings, 36; frying jam-filled, 36-37; 57; with dried fruit and nuts, 68-69; Gluten: developed in enriched
with cheese, 50-51; fillings, 50; fruit mode of simple egg-bread dough, firm and hard cheeses in, 66; dough, 33; developing in whole-
filling, 50; glozing, 5 1; twisted ring 36-37; using buttermilk or yogurt in flavoring o basic bread dough with wheat flour, 8; developing in yeast
filled with fruit and spices, 50-51 place of milk, 36 rye and buckwheat flours and bran, dough,5, 10, 13, 14-15, 16-17;
Confectioners' sugar: in almond Egg-and-butter dough: baking 54-55; French bread baked in a developing in yeast-leavened batter,
paste, 47; dusting Danish pastries brioche in o mold with a topknot, 40- fro me, 61; fresh cheese in, 66; herb 56; inhibited by presence of fats, 33;
with, 48; dusting yeast doughnuts 43; deep frying doughnuts in oil, 36- bread flavored with sage, 66, 67; in nonyeost breads, 73; in nonyeast
with, 36,37 37; developing gluten in, 33, 34; fat kneading herbs into dough, 66, 67; dough, 74; preventing
Corn flour (masa harina), 8; in, 33, 34; filled slices of dough leavening dough with baking soda, overdevelopment of, in pancakes, 84;
characteristics, 8-9; substituting, 8-9 arranged os Ions, 38; forming and 56; mixing flours in pumpernickel preventing overdevelopment of, in
Corn sticks, 88; making o crisp baking o ring of, 34-35; glozing ring bread, 64; mixing a soft, moist dough yeast puff dough, 44; relaxing gluten
crust, 88 of, 35; kneading, 34, 35; mixing for French bread, 61; picnic loaf, 70- mesh, 14, 15; relaxing, in flatbread,
Cornmeal: absorbing liquid, 76; in dough, 34-35; moisture in, 34; 71; poaching a yeast-leavened 74; softened by butter, 24, 33; in
American flatbreads (johnnycakes), preparing sponge, 34; punching dough, 58; pumpernickel bread, 64- specialty flours, 8; in wheat flour, 6, 8;
76-77; in corn sticks, 88; dusting down dough to expel gas, 40, 41; 65; pumpkin bread, 62-63; ring- in whole-wheal flour, 60
baking sheet with, 16, 20, 23, 29, 31 , ratio of butter, eggs and flour in shaped loaf of sourdough bread, 54- Gluten flour: baking bread with, 8;
65; mixing, 76; in pumpernickel brioche, 40; replacing milk with 55; Scotch bun, 52, 68-69; using o characteristics, 8-9; in pito bread, 29;
bread, 64-65 buttermilk or yogurt, 36; rising under sourdough starter, 54-55; whole- storing, 8; substituting, 8-9
Cornstarch, in baking powder, 7 refrigeration, 40; sticky buns, 38-39. wheat bread, 60; working with whole- Grains: adding to bread dough, 62
Cracked wheat, garnishing whole- See olso Enriched yeast bread wheat flour, 60; zucchini bread, 62-63 Herbs: baking a sage flotbread, 66,
wheat bread, 60 Eggs: egg-and-water glaze, 26, 27, Flour: adding to bread dough, 8; 67; flavoring bread with, 66-67
Cream of tartar: in baking 35, 67; egg-white-ond-woter glaze, bleaching, 6; characteristics of Hogmanay cake. See Scotch bun
powder, 7, 73, 80 26, 65; egg-yolk-and-water gloze, 23, specialty flours, 8-9; dusting dough Irish soda bread: kneading, 78;
Croissants, 44-46; cutting and 26,38,42,46,47, 48,49,5 1,58,59, with to obtain firm crust, 26; dusting leavening process, 78; made with
shaping dough, 44, 45-46; folding 70; in enriched bread dough, 33, 34; top crust with, 19, 26; as ingredient, white and whole-wheat flours, 78-79;
and rolling dough, 44-45; glazing, 46; lightening pancakes with whites, 84; 8-9; milling in recent times, 6; milling scoring top, 79
mixing yeast puff dough, 44; working ratio of, in brioche, 40; row, in picnic in Roman times, 6; storing, 8; Jam: filling Danish pastry twists, 48;
dough on marble, 44 loaf, 70-71; -white wash, to bind substituting in yeast breads, 8-9; filling doughnuts for deep frying, 36-
Crullers, 36 doughnuts filled with jam, 36 temperature of, for mixing, 14; used in 37
Crumpets: adding baking soda, 56, English cottage loaf, 18; bashing, making flatbread, 74; warming before Johnnycake: mode from a batter,
57; beating batter to develop gluten 18; joining spheres of dough, 18 use, 8, 14. See olso All-purpose flour; 76-77; scolded-meal dough, 76-77
in, 56; mixing bolter, 56-57; Enriched yeast bread, 33, 34-51; Barley flour; Bread flour; Buckwheat Julienne: o French term for
producing o honeycombed texture, 56 braided and filled coffeecoke, 32, 50- flour; Corn flour; G luten flour; Millet vegetables or other food cut into thin -
Crust: adding milk to bagel dough 51; brioche, 40-43; croissants, 44-46; flour; Oat flour; Rice flour; Rye flour; usually matchstick-sized -strips.
to retard crispness, 58; affected by preparing the dough, 33; ring of Soy flour; Triticale flour; Whole-wheat Kneading: basic yeast dough, 14-
pan material, 24; bread with o high simple egg-and-butter dough, 34-35; flour 15; brioche dough, 41 ; croissants, 44;
proportion of (cottage loaf), 18; slices of filled egg-bread dough Freezing bread, 7 developing gluten mesh, 5, 14;
brushing loaf with egg yolk and arranged as Ions, 38; small Danish French bread: baking in a frame, flotbread, 74; French bread, 61; herbs
water, 23; os determined by type of pastries, 47-49; sticky buns, 38-39; 61; kneading a moist dough, 61; into dough, 66; on a marble slab, 34,
flour used, 8-9; dusting baking sheet storing, 7; twisted ring of coffeecoke, rising, 61; shaping a freestanding 4 1; pumpernickel bread, 64; simple
with cornmeal or semolina to make o 50-51; yeast doughnuts, 36-37. See baguette, 22-23; sloshing dough, 61 egg dough, 34, 35; o sourdough ring,

171
 55; on unleavened (nonyeost) dough, yeast doughnuts, 36; in wheat germ Rising : affected by fat content of commercial yeast to starter, ll, 54;
74; and yeast, 5; yeast puff dough, 44 and in flour, 8 cheese, 66; in a bonneton, 54-55; of baking a ring-shaped loaf with rye
Leavening agents: baking Olive oil: keeping dough moist, 29 bread dough, 13, 14; of bread mode and buckwheat flours and bran, 54-
powder, 80, 82, 84; baking soda, 73, Orange-flower water: o flavoring with whole-wheat flour, 60; 55; history of natural starters, 5, 6;
78; history of, 5, 6; in nonyeast mode by distilling the oil of orange- explanation of yeast leavening, 10- kneading dough, 55; leavening,
doughs, 73, 78; pearlash, 6; steam, blossom petals. Produced in the Middle 11; of French bread, 61; inhibited by amounts to use, 54; letting the dough
73, 78; using at high altitudes, 7. See East, it is ovoiloble at pharmacies and lots, 66; number of risings and rise in a banneton, 54-55; mixing a
a/so Sourdough bread; Yeast specialty food stores. qualities of bread, 13; oven spring, sourdough sponge, 54; preparing o
Long johns, 36 Oven: baking bread on carbon-steel 16; process described, 14; proofing, sourdough culture, 10-11;
Malt extract: o powder or syrup sheets, 16; baking bread on quarry 14; under refrigeration, 13, 14, 40, 41 ; replenishing a starter, 10; searing cuts
processed from ripe barley molt. tiles in a home oven, 16, 17; of shaped loaves, 16, 17; slowing in a baked loaf using a sha rpening
Obtainable from stores that sell beer- humidifying during baking, 16; down, 13; speedi ng up, 13; steel, 54, 55; using starter, 53; using
making and wine-making supplies and spraying with water, 16; variations in, temperature for, 13, 14; testing wild yeasts to prepare a starter, 11
from some health-food stores. 7 dough, 14; three risings, for brioche, Soy flour: characteristics, 8-9;
Marble: kneading dough on, 34, 41, Oven spring: achieving during 40; of yeast rolls, 26 gluten in, 8; substituting, 8-9
44 baking, 16, 29; baking croissants, 44 Rolls: brushing with milk or cream, Sponge: mixing a sourdough
Masa harina. See Corn flour Pain de mie pan: a steel loof pon 28; brushing tops with butter, 28; sponge, 54; preparing a preliminary
M ilk: in bagels, 58; enriching with o slide-on or clomp-top lid. Used cigars, 26; cloverleafs, 28; crust batter for egg-and-butter dough, 34
unleavened dough, 74; in johnnycake to bake close-grained, a/most crustless formation, 26; dusting dough with Starch: conversion of, by yeast, 5; in
batter, 76-77; in yeast puff dough, 44 breads. flour, 26; glozing dough, 26, 27, 28; flour, 8; as nutrient for yeast, 5, 10
Milk- a nd-butter dough: baking Pancakes: adding cheese, 84; humidifying oven, 26; knots, 27; Sticky buns, 38-39; filling for, 38;
yeast rolls with, 26-28; for bread blending and mixing ingredients, 84; Parker House, 28; rising, 26; rounds, making fans out of a filled cylinder,
baked in covered containers, 24-25 filigree pancakes, 84-85; leavened by 26-27; seasoning crust w ith salted 38; preparing caramel syrup, 38, 39;
Millet flour: characteristics, 8-9; baking powder, 84; lightened with water, 26, 27; slashing, 26, 27; yeast, rolling dough, 38
substituting, 8-9 egg whites, 84; mode with all- 12,26-28 Sugar: adding to yeast to speed
M olasses: adding to pumpernickel purpose and buckwheat flours, 84-85; Rose water: a flavoring produced in rising, 13, 60; adding to a yeast
bread, 53, 64-65; flavoring waffle preventing toughness, 84; resting the Balkans, the Middle East, and Indio sponge,34
batter, 86-87; in johnnycake, 76-77; batter, 84 by distilling the oil of rose petals. Sugar syrup: simmering fresh fruits
nourishing yeast, 60 Pans: baking in covered containers, Available at pharmacies and specialty in, 50
Molds: brioche, 40-43; cake hoop, 24-25; baking in dark metals, 24; food stores. Triticale flour: characteristics, 8-9;
69; for corn sticks, 88; crumpet rings, baking on pizza pan, 55, 67, 70-71; Round loaves, 16-17. See a/so gluten in, 8; substituting, 8-9
56; French bread baked in a frame, baking in shiny metals, 24; cast-iron, English cottage loaf Twists (Danish pastry), 48-49
61; for popovers, 78-79; for rising 76; French bread frame, 61; glass Rye flour: cha racteristics, 8-9; Unleavened dough: in choppotis,
dough (banneton), 54-55; shaping and ceramic containers, 24; size of gluten in, 8; in pumpernickel bread, 74-75; enriched with milk, 74; in
dough for, 24; whole-wheat bread container, 24 64-65; in sourdough bread, 54-55; in flatbreads made with whole-wheat
baked in a crock, 60 Parathas, 74; stuffing, 74 sourdough starter, 11; substituting, 8- flour, 74-75; flavorings, 74; kneading,
MuHins, 80-81; dusting berries with Parker House rolls, 28 9 74; mode with cornmeal
flour, 80; stirring batter, 80 Pearlash, 6-7 SaHron: the dried stigmas of o (johnnycake), 76-77; in porothos, 74;
Nonyeast batter: in banana Picnic loaf, 70-71; cheese for, 70; species of crocus. Used to impor1 o relaxing gluten, 74
bread, 82-83; corn sticks, 88; eggs in, 70; glozing, 70; sausage in, distindive aroma and yellow color to Vanilla-flavored sugar: to make
flavoring, 84, 86; leavened with 70 certain foods. Sold in thread or ground vanilla-flavored sugar, place o whole
baking powder, 80, 82, 84, 86, 88; Pinwheels (Danish pastry), 47, forms. vanilla bean in a tightly closed canister
mixing for johnnycakes, 76-77; in 48 Sage: flavoring a flatbreod, 66, 67 of sugar for about one week; 82
muffins, 80-81; pancake, 84-85; in Pita, 29; gluten flour in, 29; inflating Sausage: kielbasa, in picnic loaf, Vegetables: adding raw to bread
popovers, 78-79; preventing lumps dough,29 70-71 dough, 62-63; pureeing and adding
when mixing banana bread, 82; Poaching: bagels, 58-59 Scald: a cooking term -usually to bread dough, 62-63; pureeing
preventing toughness, 84; relaxing Popovers: baking in molds, 78-79; applied to milk -that means to heat pumpkin, 62; shredding and salting
gluten, 84; waffle, 86-87 leavened by steam, 73, 78 liquid to just below the boiling point or zucchini, 62
Nonyea st breads, 72, 73-88; Poppy seeds: on bagels, 58; until small bubbles appear around the WaHies: flavoring with apricot
baking powder biscuits, 80-81; bonded to dough with egg white, 21; edge o f the pan. puree, 86; flavoring batter with
banana bread, 72, 82-83; blueberry garnish, 21,60 Scotch bun, 52, 68-69; in co ke molasses, 86-87; cooked in electric
muffins, 80-81; corn sticks, 88; Irish Potatoes: mashed, adding to hoop, 69; kneading in fruits and nuts, iron, 86-87; cooked in old-fashioned
soda bread, 78-79; pancakes, 84-85; pumpernickel bread, 65; in 69; soaking d ried fruit in liquor, 68; waffle iron, 86; making crisp, 86
popovers, 78-79; waffles, 86-87. See sourdough starter, 11 wrapping in dough, 68, 69 Walnut oil : a nutty-flavored, quick-
a/so Flatbread; Unleavened dough Pretzels: garnishes, 30, 31; glaze, Sea salt: untreated salt from the sea. drying oil that is extroded from
Nonyea st dough: adding soured 31; handling dough, 30; rising, 30; Obtainable from health-food stores and walnuts. Obtainable from health-food
milk, 73; choosing flours and meals to shaping, 31 some specialty food stores. stores and European-food specialty
bake with, 73; handling dough made Prosciutto: the /to/ion nome for Semolina: coarse cream-colored stores.
with baking powder, 80; leavening salted and dried but unsmoked hom. granules, milled fro~ the hearts of Wheat: action of yeast in wheat
agents in, 73, 78; leavened by baking Pumpernickel bread, 64-65; durum-wheot berries. Simi/or to farina, flour, 5; anatomy of a kernel of
soda, 73, 78; leavened by steam, 73, adding mashed potato, 65; glazing, which is mode from the hearts of other wheat, 7; hard, 6; making flour from,
78; preventing overdevelopment of 65; kneading dough, 64; making o hard-wheat berries; 16, 20, 23, 29, 31, 6, 8; milling flour in recent times, 6;
gluten, 80, 82. See a/so Baking cornmeal paste, 64; mixing in flours, 63,65 milling flour in Roman times, 6;
powder; Baking soda; Unleavened 65 Sesame seeds: as garnish, 21, 58, production of, historically, 6; proteins
dough Pumpkin: bread, 62-63; pureeing, 60 in, 5; soft, 6; substitutions for wheat
N uts: adding to bono no bread, 82; 62 Sour milk: to make 1 cup [% liter] of flour, 8-9. See a/so Bran; Flour;
in Scotch bun, 68-69 Quick bread: banana, 82-83 sour milk, combine 1 tablespoon [15 Whole-wheat flour
Oat flour: characteristics, 8-9; Raisins: dusted with flour to prevent mi.] of vinegar or fresh lemon juice with Wheat germ: described, 7; oils in, 8
substituting, 8-9 sinking to bottom of bread, 82 enough milk to make 1 cup. Let the Whole-wheat flour: baking
O il: seasoning cost-iron pons with, Rice flour: characteristics, 8-9; mixture stand for five minutes; 73 whole-wheat bread in a crock, 60;
76; temperature of, for deep frying substituting, 8-9 Sourdough bread: adding bran content, 60; in choppotis, 74-75;

172
characteristics of, 8-9, 60; garnishing p reparing o sponge for simple egg- making a tiered loaf, 18; mixing by 56; crumpets, 56-57; developing
loaf of whole-wheat bread, 60; g luten and-butter doug h, 34; producing on a hand, 14-1 5; m olding a boll into a gluten, 56; lightening w ith baking
in, 8, 60; in Irish soda b rea d, 78-79; wide scale, 6; softening, 10; starch cylinder, 19-20; notching a cylinder soda, 56
inporothos, 74; in pumpernickel for, 10; storing commercial, 10; wild with scissors, 20; punching down, 14; Yeast puH dough: in b ra ided and
bread, 64-65; rising time, 60; yeasts, 10, 11, 54; yeast production resting, 15; risi ng and proofing, 13, filled coffeecoke, 32, 50-5 1; butter in,
substituting, 8-9; using a dditional and temperature of dough, 14, 40 14; rising while refrigerated, 14; 44; chilling dough, 47; in cockscombs,
yeast, 60; using in combination with Yeast dough: baking bread from rolling out a baguette, 22-23; shaping 47, 49; in envelopes, 47; fat in, 33;
other flours, 60 bosicyeostdough, 13, 14-17; and baking rolls from bread dough, folding and rolling, 44-45; handling
Yeast: activating dry, 10; a dding bashing, 18; basic dough baked in a 26-28; shaping into loaves and rising, for Danish pastry, 47; kneading, 44;
baker's yeast to sourdough c ulture, covered pan, 24-25; basic doug h 16-17; sloshing tops of shaped making c roissants, 44-46; milk in, 44;
11, 54; adding extra yeast to whole- baked in loaf pan, 24-25; braiding a doug h, 16, 18, 19,21,23,25,26,27, mixing dough, 44; in pinwheels, 47,
wheat bread, 60; adding to loaf, 22-23; cutting and shaping 61; substituting flours, 8-9; tapering a 48; relaxing dough, 44; shaping and
sourdough starter, 53, 54; baker's, p retzels and bread sticks, 30-31; cylindrical loaf, 21; testing after filling Danish p a stries, 47-49; twisted
10; cultivating wild yeasts in a developing gluten, 10, 13; enriching dough has risen, 14; testing baked ring, 50-51 ; in twists, 47, 48-49;
sourdough starter, 11, 54; in Egypt, 5; basic dough with butter and eggs, 33- b read, 17; using a sourdough starter, working on marble slob, 44. See a/so
fermentation process, 10; growth 51; flavoring basic dough, 53-71; 10-11 . See a/so Basic yeast bread; Enriched yeast bread
while bread is rising, 5, 10, 13, 14; handling dough for pretzels, 30; Egg-and-butter dough; Milk-and- Zucchini: adding to bread dough,
history of, 5, 6; nourishing, 60; inflating during baking to form a butter dough; Yeast puff dough 62; bread, 62-63; getting rid o f excess
preparing a sourdough starter, 10-11; pocket(pito), 29; kneading, 14-15; Yeast-leavened baHer: beating, liquid, 62; salting, 62

Bringer, Rodolphe, Les Bans Vieux Plats du Tricastin. mon & Schuster, a division of Gulf & Western Corporation.
Recipe Credits Published by Les Amis du Tricostin. Reprinted by Editions By permission of the publisher(90, 107, 112, 124).
Daniel Morcrette, Luzorches. Tronsloted by permission of Copping, Wilf and lois, The Country Innkeepers' Cook-
the publisher( 120). book. Copyright © 1978 by Yankee, Inc. Published by Yan-
The sources for the recipes in this volume ore shown below. Brown, Edward Espe, The Tassajara Bread Book. ©by kee, Inc., Dublin, New Hampshire. By permission of the
Page references in parentheses indicate where the recipes publisher(l48, 154, 160, 162).
the Chief Priest, Zen Center, Son Francisco. Published by
appear in the anthology. Shombholo Publications, Inc., 1920 13th Street, Boulder, Corsi, Guglielmo, Un Secolo di Cucina Umbra. Pub-
Colorado 80301. By permission of the publisher lished by Tipogrolio Porziuncolo, Assisi, 1968. Translated
(160). by permission of the publisher(ll4).
Brown, Helen, He/en Brown's West Coast Cook Book. Cox, J. Stevens (Editor). Guernsey Dishes of Bygone
Aberdeen School of Domestic Science, Plain Cook- Copyright 1952 by Helen Evans Brown. Published by Little, Days. ©James ond Gregory Stevens Cox. Published by
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lege, Aberdeen, 1913(148). publisher( 14 1). mission of Gregory Stevens Cox(l 45).
Acton, Eliza, The English Bread-Book for Domestic Use. Brown, Marion, The Southern Cook Book. © 1968 The Dalgairns, Mrs., The Practise of Cookery. Printed for
Published by Longman, Brown, Green, Longmons, & Rob- University of North Carolina Press. Published by The Uni- Cadell & Co., Edinburgh, 2nd edition, 1829( 104, 131).
erts, London, 1857( 118). versity of North Carolina Press, Chapel Hill. By permission David, Elizabeth, English Bread ond Yeast Cookery.
Adam, Hans Karl, Dos Kochbuch ous Schwaben. © of the publisher( 1521. Copyright© Elizabeth David, 1977. Published by Penguin
Copyright 1976 by Verlogsteom Wolfgang Holker. Pub- Bumgarner, Marlene Anne, The Book of Whole Books Ltd., London, 1979. By permission of the publish-
lished by Verlag Wolfgang Holker, Munster. Translated by Grains. Copyright© 1976 by Marlene Anne Bumgarner. er(l3l, 135).
permission of the publisher( 123). Published by St. Martin's Press. By permission of the pub- de Bonnefons, Nicolas, Les Delices de lo Compogne.
Adamson, Helen Lyon, Grandmother in the K•tchen. © lisher(92, 108, 1531. 1655(117).
1965 by Helen Lyon Adamson. Published by Crown Pub- Calve!, Raymond, La Boulongerie Moderne. © 1978 De Gouy, Louis P., The Bread Troy. Copyright© 1944
lishers, Inc. By permission of the publisher(l44). Eyrolles. Published by Editions Eyrolles, Paris, 1978. Trons- by Louis P. De Gouy. Copyright renewed 1972 by Jacque-
Akerstrom, Jenny, Prinsessornos Kokbok. © 1945 Al- loted by permission of the publisher(98, 104). lineS. Dooner. Published by Dover Publications, Inc. By
bert Bonniers Boktryckeri, Stockholm. Published by Albert Cavazzuti, Giorgio (Editor), If Mangiarfuari, Almanacco permission of the publisher(l36).
Bonniers Forlog, A B., Stockholm. By permission of the della Cucina Modenese. Published by Camero di Commer- de Groot, Roy Andries, The Auberge of the Flowering
publisher( 115). cia, Modena, 1965. Translated by permission of Camero Hearth. Copyright© 1973 by Roy Andries de Groot. Pub-
Allen, Ida Bailey, Best Loved Recipes of the American di Commercia Industria Artiginoto e Agricolturo(ll9). lished by The Bobbs-Merrill Company, Inc. By permission
People. Copyright© 1973 by Ruth Allen Castelli. Published Chamberlin-Hell man, Maria (Editor), Food Notes. © of Robert Cornfield, agent for the outhor(l l 9).
by Doubleday & Com pony, Inc. By permission of the Copyright 1974, The Rudolf Wittkower Fellowship Fund. de Zuliani, Mariu Salvatori, Lo Cucino di Versilio e
publisher( 160). Published lor the benefit of The Rudolf Wittkower Fellow- Garfagnana. Copyright© by Fro nco Angeli Editore, Mi-
Androuet, Pierre, La Cuisine au Fromoge. © 1978, Edi- ship Fund, Deportment of Art, History ond Archaeology, lo no. Published by Franco Angeli Editore, Milan, 1969.
tions Stock. Published by Editions Stock, Paris. Translated Columbia University, New York. By permission of Mario Translated by permission of the publisher(92, 115).
by permission of the publisher(ll3). Chomberlin-Hellmon(91). Deschamps, B. and J.-CI. Deschaintre, Le Livre
Artocchini, Carmen, 400 Ricette della Cucina Piacen- Chezzetcook Historical Society Cookbook. Pub- del'Apprenti Patissier. © 1978 Editions Jacques Lenore
tina. Published by Gino Molinari, Piocenzo. Translated by lished by Women's Clubs Publishing Co. Inc., Chicago, c. C.L.T. Published by Editions Jacques Lenore C.L.T., Mala-
permission of the outhor(96). 1973(137). koff. Translated by permission of the publisher(l34).
Bar-David, Molly lyons, The Israeli Cookbook. © Cholcheva, Penka 1., Kniga za Vseki Den i Vseki Dam. les Desserts de nas Provinces. © Hochette, 1974.
1964 by Crown Publishers, Inc. Published by C rown Pub- Published by the State Publishing House "Techniko," 1979. Published by Libroirie Hochette, Paris. Translated by per-
lishers, Inc. By permission of the publisher(96) . Translated by permission of Jusoutor Copyright Agency, mission of the publisher(l34).
Bates, Margaret, The Scottish ond Irish Baking Book. Sofia, lor the outhor(l32) . Dolby, Richard, The Cook's Dictionary ond House-
Copyright© Pergamon Press Ltd. Published in 1965 by Per- Chowdhary, Savitri, Indian Cooking. Copyright ©So- Keeper's Directory. Published by Henry Colburn ond Rich-
gamon Press Ltd., London. By permission of the vitri Chowdhory 1954, 1975. Published by Andre Deutsch, ard Bentley, London, 1830(105).
publisher( 14 7). London, 1954 and Pon Books, London, 1975. By permis- Dyer, Ceil, The Newport Cookbook. Copyright© 1972 by
Bisson, Marie, La Cuisine Normonde. ©Solar, 1978. sion of Andre Deutsch(l44l. Ceil Dyer. Published by Weothervone Books. By permis-
Published by Solar, Paris. Translated by permission of the Clayton, Bernard, Jr., The Complete Book of Breads. sion of Hawthorn Books, o division of Elsevier/Dutton Pub-
publisher( 140). Copyright© 1973 by Bernard Clayton Jr. Published by Si- lishing Co., lnc.(l50, 150).

173
 Edmonds, Anna G . (Editor), An American Cook in Tur- G. P. Putnam's Sons. By permission of Curtis Brown Holker, Munster. Translated by permission of the
key. Published by Red house Press, Istanbul, 1961, 1966, Ltd.(137) publisher(113) .
1971, 1978. By permission of Anno Edmonds for Redhouse Hirschfeld, Florence Kerr, Cooking With Love. Copy- lincoln, Mrs. Mary J., The Boston Cook Book. Pub-
Press(1 28). right © 1965 by Florence Kerr Hirschfeld. Published by lished in 1912 by Little, Brown, and Company,
Ellis, Eleanor A. (Editor), Northern Cookbook. ©Minister Houghton Mifflin Company, 1965. By permission of the Boston(151).
of Supply and Services Canada 1979. Published by Hurtig publisher( 100). llanover, The Right Hon. lady, Good Cookery.
Publishers, Edmonton, Alberto. By permission of the pub- Irish Recipes Traditional and Modern. Published Published by Richard Bentley, London, 1867(95).
lisher and the Minister of Supply and Services by Mount Salus Press limited, Dublin. By permission of the Macdonald, Duncan, The New London Family Cook (or
Conodo(\461. publisher( 136, 138). Town and Country Housekeeper's Guide). Published by Al-
Ellis, W., The Country Housewife's Family Companion. Jensen, lngeborg Dahl, Wonderful, Wonderful Danish bion Press lor J. and J. Cundee, London, 1812(106).
Published in London. 1750(95). Cooking. Copyright© 1966 by lngeborg Dahl Jensen. Pub- McNeill, F. Marian, The Scars Kitchen. First edition 1929.
Firth, Grace, Srillroom Cookery. Copyright © 1977 lished by Simon & Schuster, a division of Gulf & Western Second edition 1963. Published by Blockie and Son limit-
Groce Firth. Published by EPM Publications, Inc., Corporation. By permission of the publisher(107). ed, London a nd Glasgow. By permission of the publish-
Mclean, Virginia. By permission of the publisher Johnson, Alice B., The Complete Scandinavian Cook- er(·135, 142).
(106, 126). book. Copyright© Alice B. Johnson 1964. Published by Macnicol, Fred, Hungarian Cookery. Copyright© 1978
Food and Wines from Alsace, France. Published by Macmillan Publishing Co., Inc. By permission of the by Fred Mocnicol. Published by Penguin Books Ltd., Lon-
Centre d ' lnformotion du Vin d'Alsoce, Colmar, 1979. By publisher( 157). don. By permission of the publisher(132).
permission of the publisher( 129). Johnson, Ellen Foscue, The Gorden Way Bread Book. Magyar, Elek, Kochbuch fur Feinschmecker. © Dr. Mag-
Foods of the World, American Cooking, The Eastern Copyright © 1979 by Gorden Way Associates, Inc. Pub- yar Balint. © Dr. Magyar Pol. Originally published in 1967
Heartland; American Cooking, The Great West; American lished by Gorden Way Publishing Co. By permission of the under the title Az lnyesmester Szokocs Konyve by Corvino
Cooking, Southern Style. Copyright © 1971 Time-Life Books publisher(\45, 152, 156). Verlag, Budapest. Translated by permission of Artisjus, Lit-
Inc.; Copyright© 1971 Time Inc.; Copyright© 1971 Time The Junior league of Fayetteville, Inc., The Caroli- erary Agency, Budopest(106).
Inc. Published by Time-Life Books, Alexandria, Virgin- na Collection. Copyright© 1978 by The Junior League, Mann, Gertrude, A Book of Cokes. © Gertrude Mann,
io(130, 136, 154; 140; 151). Fayetteville, North Caro lina. Published by the Junior 1957. Published 1957 by Andre Deutsch, London. By per-
Francesconi, Jeanne Carola, La Cucino Napoletano. League of Fayetteville, Inc. By permission of the mission of the publisher(102).
Copyright 1965 by Coso Editrice Fausto Fiorentino, Na- publisher( 163). Manning, Elise W. (Editor), Country Fair Cookbook.
poli. Published by Fausto Fiorentino Editore, Naples. The Junior league of Greenville, Inc., 300 Years of Copyright© 1975 by Form Journal, Inc. Published by Dou-
Translated by permission of the outhor(114, 117). Carolina Cooking. Copyright© 1970 by the Junior League bleday & Company, Inc. By permission of Form Journal,
Grant, Doris, Your Doily Food, Recipe for Survival. © of Greenville, Inc. Published by The Junior League of Inc.( 155, 157).
Doris Grant 1973. Published by Faber & Faber Limited, Greenville, Inc. By permission of the publisher(145 -Mrs. Manyan, Gladys, The Country Seasons Cookbook.
1973. By permission of the publisher(94 ). J. Cranston Gray) . Drawings by Doug Anderson. © 1974 by Gladys Monyon.
The Great Cooks' Guide to Breads. Copyright © The Junior league of Jackson, Mississippi, South- Published by Bonanza Books, a division of Crown Publish-
1977 by Albert G . Lowenthal. Published by Random ern Sideboards. Copyright © 1978 by Junior League of ers, Inc. By permission of Crown Publishers, lnc.(160, 162).
House, Inc. By permission of Carol Cutler( 114- Caro l Jackson, Mississippi. Published by Junior League of Jock- Menichetti, Piero Luigi and Luciana Menichetti
Cutler). son. By permission of the publisher( 144 - Mrs. Word T. Panfili, Vecchio Cucino Eugubino. Published by Tipolito-
Grigson, Jane, English Food. Copyrig ht © 1974 Jane M cCraney Jr.) . grofio Rubini e Petruzzi, Citto di Costello, 1976. Translated
Grigson. Published by Macmillan London limited, 1974. By The Junior league of little Rock, LiNie Rock Cooks. by permission of Piero Luigi Menichetti, Gubbio(112).
permission of Macmillan, London and Bosingstoke(97, Copyright© 1972 The Junior League of Little Rock, Inc. Merigot, Madame, La Cuisiniere Republicoine. Pub-
1051. Published by The Junior League of Little Rock, Inc., Little lished by Merigot jeune, Libroire, Paris, in the third year of
Groff, Betty and Jose Wilson, Good Earth & Country Rock, Arkansas. By permission of the publisher the Republic (1795)(117).
Cooking. Published by Stackpole Books, Harrisburg, (108) . Miller, Amy Bess Williams and Persis Wellington
Pennsylvania, 1974. By permission of the publisher The Junior league of Tampa, The Gosporillo Cook- Fuller, The Best of Shaker Cooking. Copyright © 1970 by
(91). book. Copyright The Junior League of Tampa, Inc. 1961. Shaker Community, Inc. Published by Collier Books, a divi-
Guinaudeau-Franc, Zette, Les Secrets des Fermes en Published by The Junior League of Tampa, Inc. By per(YliS- sion of Macmillan Publishing Co., Inc. By permission of
Perigord Nair. © 1978, editions Serg, Paris. Published by sion of the publisher(127 - Mrs. James H. Kennedy). Macmillan Publishing Co., lnc.( 137, 138, 159, 161).
editions Serg, Paris. Translated by permission of the Kakonen, Ufla, Natural Cooking the Finnish Way. Monad, louis, La Cuisine florentine. Published by edi-
outhor(1301. Copyright © 1974 by Ullo Kokonen. Published by Quad- tions Daniel Morcrette, B. P. 26, 95270 Luzorches, 1977.
Haitsma Mulier-van Beusekom, C. A. H. (Editor), rangle/The New York Times Book Company. By permis- Tronslo ted by permission of the publisher (116).
Culinoire Encyclopedie. Published by Elsevier© 1957. Re- sion of Times Books, a division of Quadrangle/The New Montagne, Prosper, The New Lorousse Gostronomique.
vised edition 1974 by N .V. Uitgeversmootschoppij Elsevier York Times Book Compony(91, 109, 141 ). English translation© 1977 by The Homlyn Publishing
Nederland and E.H.A. Nokken-Rovekomp. Translated by Kamman, Madeleine, The Making of a Cook. Copy- Group limited. Published by C rown Publishers, Inc. By per-
permission of B.V. Uitgeversmootschoppij Elsevier Focus, right © 1971 by Madeleine Kamman. Published by Athene- mission of the publisher( 149).
Amsterdom(93). um Publishers. By permission of the publisher(159). The New london Cookery and Complete Do-
Hall, Jeanne M., 500 More Recipes By Request. Copy- Karsenty, Irene and Lucienne, La Cuisine Pied-Nair mestic Guide, by A lady. Published by G. Virtue, Bris-
right© 1960 by Jeanne Hall Senderhouf. Published by (Cuisines du Terroir) . © 1974, by editions Denoel, Paris. tol, c. 1827(130).
Bramhall House, a division of Clarkson N . Potter, Inc., by Published by editions Denoel, Paris. Tronsloted by permis- Nichols, Nell B. (Editor), Homemade Bread. Copyright ©
arrangement w ith Heorthside Press, Inc. By permission of sion of the publisher(121). 1969 by Form Journal, Inc. Published by Doubleday &
N eddo Anders-Richerd Anders(154) . Katzen, Mollie, The Moosewood Cookbook. Copyright Company, Inc. By permi ssion of Form Journal, lnc.(101) .
Hazelton, Nika, American Home Cooking. Copyright © 1977, Mollie Katzen. Published by Ten Speed Press, Berke- Norberg, lnga, Good Food from Sweden. Published by
1980 by Niko Hazelton. Published by The Viking Press. By ley. By permissio n of the author( 161 ). Chotto a nd Windus, London, 1935. By permission of C urtis
permission of Viking Penguin, Inc.( 142). Kaufman, Ted and Jean, The Complete Bread Cook- Brown Ltd., London, agents for the outhor(92).
Hefler, Edna Eby, The Art of Pennsylvania Dutch Cook- book. Copyright © 1969 by Coronet Communications, Inc. Older, Julia and Steve Sherman, Soup and Bread. ©
ing. Copyright© 1968 by Edna Eby Heller. Published by Published by arrangement with Worner Books, New York. 1978 by Julio Older and Steve Sherman. Published by The
Doubleday & Company, Inc. By permission of the publish- By permission of Worner Books(\42, 152). Stephen Greene Press, Brattleboro, Vermont 05301. By
er(155, 156). Kiehnle, Hermine and Maria Hadecke, Dos Neue permission of the publisher(\18, 137).
Hellermann, Dorothea V., Dos Kochbuch ous Hom- Kiehnle-Kochbuch. ©Wolter Hodecke Verlag (vorm.'Svd- Olney, Judith, Comforting Food. Copyright© 1979 by
burg. ©copyright 1975 by Verlogsteom Wolfgang Holker. deutsches Verlogshous), Weil der Stadt, 1960. Published Judith O lney. Published by Atheneum Publishers. By per-
Published by Verlag Wolfgang Holker, MOnster. Translated by Wolter Hodecke Verlag, Weil der Stadt. Translated by mission of the publisher(108). Summer Food. Copyright©
by permission of the publisher(100, 126). permission of the publisher(95, 111 , 115). 1978 by Judith Olney. Published by Atheneum Publishers.
Hess, Olga and Adolf Fr., Wiener Kiiche. 37th edition Klever, Eva and Ulrich, Seiber Brat Bocken. ©by By permission of the publisher( 113, 116).
1977. Copyright© by Franz Deuticke, Vienna, 1963. Trons- G rafe und Unzer GmbH., MOnchen. Published by Grafe Ortega, Simone, Mil Ochento Recetos de Cocino. © Si-
loted by permission of Franz Deuticke(125). und Unzer GmbH., Munich. Translated by permission of mone K. de Ortego, 1972. © Alionzo Editorial, S.A., Ma-
Hewitt, Jean, The New York Times New England Heritage the publisher(99). drid, 1972. Published by Alionzo Editorial, S.A. Translated
Cookbook. Copyright © 1972 and 1977 by The New York Kowalska, lili, Cooking the Polish Way. © Paul Homlyn by permission of the publisher( 150).
Times Company. Introduction© 1977 by Jean Hewitt. Pub- Limited 1964. Published by Paul Homlyn limited, London. Ortiz, Elisabeth lambert, Caribbean Cooking. Copy-
lished by G. P. Putnam's Sons. By permission of Curtis By permission of The Homlyn Publishing Group limit- right© Elisabeth Lambert Ortiz, 1973, 1975. Published by
Brown Ltd., New York, agents lor the outhor(151 ). The New ed(126, 129). Penguin Books Ltd., London. By permission of the publish-
York Times Southern Heritage Cookbook. Copyright© 1972 Kurtz, Jutta, Dos Brat Bockbuch. ©Copyright 1975 by er(146). The Complete Book of Mexican Cooking. Copy-
and 1976 by The New York Times Company. Published by Verlag Wolfgang Holker. Published by Verlag Wolfgang right © 1967 by Elisabeth Lambert O rtiz. Reprinted by per-

174
 and improved, by the addition of nearly one thousand en- Valente, Maria Odette Cortes, Cozinho Regional Por-
mission of the publisher, M. Evans and Company, Inc.,
New York 10017(141). tirely new receipts (contributed by M rs. Emma Roberts), tuguese. Published by Livrorio Almedino, Coimbro, 1973.
1841(128). Translated by permission of the publisher(120).
Pascoe, Ann, Cornish Recipes Old and New. Published
Schapiro, Christiane, to Cuisine Corse. ©Solar, 1979. Vence, Celine and Robert Courtine, The Grand
by Tor Mark Press, Truro, Cornwall. By permission of the
publisher( 139, 143). Published by Solar, Paris. Translated by permission of the Masters of French Cuisine. Copyright\!:> 1978 by G . P. Put·
publisher( 127}. nom's Sons. Originally published in France as Les Grands
Pearson, Haydn S., Country Flavor Cookbook. Copy·
Scheibler, Sophie Wilhelmine, Allgemeines Deutsches Moitres de Ia Cuisine Fron<;oise, copyrig ht© 1972 by Bor-
right © 1962, 1956 by Haydn S. Pearson. Published by W .
Kochbuch fur aile Stonde. Published in Leipzig, 1896(123). das. Published by G. P. Putnam's Sons. By permission of
W. Norton & Company, Inc. By permission of the
The Settlement Cook Book. Copyright© 1965, 1976 the publisher(100, 102) .
publisher( 156).
by The Settlement Cookbook Co. Published by Simon & Vielfaure, Nicole and A. Christine Beauviala, fetes,
Peck, Paulo, The Art of Fine Baking. Copyright © 1961 Coutumes et Gateaux. ©Christine Bonneton, tditeur.
by Paulo Peck. Published by Simon & Schuster, o division Schuster, o d ivision of Gulf & Western Corporation. By
permission of the publisher(163) . Published by Christine Bonneton, tditeur, Le Puy-en-Veloy.
of Gulf & Western Corporation. By permission of the Translated by permission of the publisher(101 , 123).
publisher( 158). Shulman, Martha Rose, The Vegetarian Feast. Copy·
right © 1979 by Martha Rose Shulman. Published by Har- Viola, Pauline and Knud Ravnkilde, Cooking with
Petits Propos Culinoires I. February, 1979. Copyright o Danish Flavour. Copyright© 1978 by Pauline Viole and
©Prospect Books 1979. Published by Prospect Books, Lon- per & Row, Publishers, Inc. By permission of the
publisher( 122). Knud Rovnkilde. Published by Elm Tree Books for Danish
don and Washington, D.C. By permission of the Agricultural Producers, London. By permission of Hamish
publisher( 139). Singh, Dharomjit, Indian Cookery. Copyrigh t ©
Dhoromjit Singh, 1970. Published by Penguin Books Ltd., Hamilton Ltd., London(133).
Petits Propos Culinoires IV. February, 1980. Copy· Volpicelli, Luigi and Secondino Freda (Editors).
right© Prospect Books 19BO. Published by Prospect Books, London, 1970. By permission of the publisher(139, 140).
Snow, Jane Moss, A Family Harvest. Copyright© 1976 L'Antiortusi: I 000 Ricette. © 1978 Pan Editrice, Milano. Pub-
London and Washington, D.C. By permission of the lished by Pen Editrice, Milan. Transla ted by permission o f
publisher( 118). by Jane Moss Snow . Published by The Bobbs-Merrill Com·
pony, Inc. By permission of Collier Associates, New York, the publisher(153).
The Picayune Creole Cook Book. First published in Walker, Lorna and Joyce Hughes, The Complete
1901 as The Original Picayune Creole Cook Book. Reprint- for the outhor(148).
Stamm, Sara B. B., and the Lady Editors of Yan- Bread Book. ©Copyright The Homlyn Publishing Group
ed in 1971 by Dover Publications, lnc.(l38). limited 1977. Published by The Homlyn Publishing Group
Porter, Mrs. M. E., Mrs. Porter's New Southern Cookery kee Magazine, Favorite New England Recipes. Copy·
right© 1972 by Sora B. B. Stamm and Yankee, Inc. Pub· limited, London, 1977. By permission of the publisher(103,
Book. Introduction Copyright © 1973 by Louis Szothmory. 143).
Published by Arno Press, A New York Times Company. By lished by Yankee, Inc., Dublin, New Hampshire. By
permission of the publisher(122, 152). White, Florence, Good English Food. Published by
permission o f the publisher( 138, 157, 163). Jonathon Cope Ltd., London, 1952. By permission of the
The Receipt Book of Ann Blencowe. (A.D. 1694) Straub, Maria Elisabeth, Gronen Aol und Rode Griitt.
© LN-Verlog Lubecker Nochrichten GmbH., LUbeck 1971. publisher(98).
Published by Guy Chapman, The Adelphi, London, Widenfelt, Sam (Editor). Favorite Swedish Recipes. Pub-
Sixth edition 1977. Published by LN-Verlog Lubecker Noch-
1925(128). lished by Dover Publications, Inc., New York, 1975. By per-
Reich, Lilly Joss, The Viennese Pastry Cookbook. Copy· richten GmbH. Translated by permission of the
publisher(125). mission of the publisher(124).
right© 1970 by Lilly Joss Reich. Published by Collier Books, Witty, Helen and Elizabeth Schneider Colchie,
o division of Macmillan Publishing Co., Inc. By permission Sverdrup, Elise, Norway's Delight: Dishes and Special-
ities. ~Elise Sverdrup 1957. Published by Johon Grund! Better thon Store-Bought. Copyright © 1979 by Helen Witty
of Macmillan Publishing Co., lnc.(l58). and Elizabeth Schneider Colchie. Published by Harper &
Robbins, Ann Roe, The Seven-Ingredients Cookbook. Tonum Forlog, Oslo, 1968. By permission of Forloget
Tonum/Norli NS., Oslo(l41). Row, Publishers, Inc. By permission of the publisher(94, 96,
Copyright © 1968 by Ann Roe Robbins. Published by Chil-
ton Book Company. By permission of the publisher( Ill). Torr, Yvonne Young, The New York Times Bread and 98).
Soup Cookbook. Copyright© 1972 by Quadrangle Books, The Woman's Auxiliary of Olivet Episcopal
Robertson, Laurel, Carol Flinders and Bronwen Church, Franconia, Virginia, Virginia Cookery -Post
Godfrey, Laurel's Kitchen: A Handbook for Vegetarian Inc. Published by Quadrangle/The New York Times Book
Co., Inc. By permission of the publisher(93, 97, 153, 161). and Present. Copyright, 1957, by the Woman's Auxiliary of
Cookery and Nutrition. Copyrightl97 6 by Nilgiri Press, Olivet Episcopal Church, Franconia, Virginia. Published by
Petaluma, California 94953. Published by Nilgiri Press. By Tendret, Lucien, to Tobie au Pays de Brillot-Sovorin .
Published by Libroirie Dordel, Chomb.ery, 1934. Translated the Woman's Auxiliary of Olivet Episcopal Church. By per-
permission of the publisher( 162).
by permission of Jacques Groncher, Editeur, Poris(119). mission of the publisher(163).
Robotti, Peter J. and Frances D., French Cooking in Wumburger, Janet E. C. (Editor), Private Collections:
the New World, Louisiana and French Canadian Cuisine. Thorne-Thomsen, Kathleen and Linda Brown-
ridge, Why the Coke Won't Rise and the Jelly Won't Set. A Culinary Treasure. Copyright © 1973 by The Wolters Art
Copyright© 1967 by Frances Dione Robotti. Published by
Copyright© 1979 by Kathleen Thorne· Thomsen and Lindo Gallery, Balti more, Maryland. Published by The Women's
Doubleday & Company, Inc. By permission of the au·
Brownridge. Published by A & W Publishers, Inc. By per- Committee o f the Wolters Art G allery. By permission of the
thors(l43, 147).
mission of the publisher( 149). publisher(l 04, 162).
Rombauer, Irma S. and Marion Rombauer
Tibbott, S. Minwel, Welsh Fore. ©Notional Museum of Yianilos, Theresa Karas, The Complete Greek Cook-
Becker,Joy of Cooking. Copyright© 1931, 1936, 194 1,
1942, 1943, 1946, 1951, 1952, 1953, 1962, 1963, 1964, Wales (Welsh Folk Museum). Published by Notional Muse- book. Copyright © 1971 by Theresa Karas Yionilos. Pub·
um of Wales (Welsh Folk Museum). 1976. By permission of lished by Avenel Books by arrangement with Funk & Wog-
1975 by The Bobbs-Merrill Company, Inc. Published by the
the publisher( 121, 148). nolls. By permission of Harper & Row, Publishers, Inc.
Bobbs-Merrill Company, Inc., 1975. By permission of ihe
publisher( 142, 146). Tschirky, Oscar, The Cook Book by 'Oscar' of the Wal- (147).
Rosser, Linda Kennedy (Editor). Pioneer Cookery dorf. C opyright 1896 by Oscar Tschirky. Published by The York, George K., Division of Agricultural Services, Uni-
around Oklahoma. Copyright 1978 Lindo Kennedy Rosser. Werner Company, Chicago and New York(105) . versity of Cali fornia Leaflet 2420. Published by the Univer -
Uhle, Margret and Anne Brakemeier, Eigenbrotlers sity of California Cooperative Extension, Dovis(l1 0).
Published by Omniplex (Oklahoma Science and Arts
Foundation, Inc.). Oklahoma City, 1978. By permission of Brotbockbuch. © 1975 Mosoik Verlag GmbH., Munchen. Zaniboni, Maria Rivieccia, Cucina e Vini di Napoli e
the outhor(l50). Published by Verlogsgrupp e Bertolsmonn GMBH., Vienna. della Campania. ©Copyright 1975 Ugo Mursio Editore,
Rundell, Mrs. Maria Eliza, A New System of Domestic Translated by permission of Mosoik Verlag GmbH.(103, Milano. Published by Ugo Mursio Editore, Milan. Transla t-
109, 110). ed by permission of the publisher(116, 120).
Cookery. First published 1806. 65th edition remodelled

175
 Mory Attenborough, Essex, England; Moure M. Been, U.S.
Acknowledgments Deportment of Agriculture, Berkeley, California; Guy K.
Johnson, Hertfordshire, England; Rosemary Klein, London;
Lyle E. Lohman, Menne! Milling Company, Fostoria, Ohio;
Benson, Notional Pretzel Bakers Institute, New York, New Jeon Wickstrom Liles, Southern Living, Birmingham,
York; Soro Bodi, Americana, New York, New York; Liz Alobomo; Sue Mcfarland, Milton Keynes, England; Pippa
The indexes for this book were prepared by Louise W.
Clasen, London; Bernard Clayton Jr., Bloomington, Millard, London; Sonya Mills, Kent, England; Dilys Naylor,
Hedberg. The editors ore porticulorly indebted to Goil
Indio no; Emmo Codrington, Surrey, England; Dr. Bert London; Henry Ng, Western Regional Research Center,
Duff, Kent, England; Dr. R. Corl Hoseney, Deportment of
Groin Sciences ond Industry, Konsos Stole University, D'Appolonio, Deportment of Cereal Chemists ond Albany, California; Dr. Yeshojohu Pomeranz, Dr. Corl
Technology, North Dokoto Stole University, Forgo; Finney, Dr. Byron S. Miller, Donald Bechtel, U.S. Groin
Monhotton; Elisabeth Lamers, Accokeek, Morylond; Peter
Deportment of Home Economics ond Nutrition Education, Marketing Research Laboratory, Manhattan, Konsos; Joan
Ort, Moster Boker, Bedfordshire, England; Ann O'Sullivan,
The Flour Advisory Bureau Ltd., London; Foye Egon, Reynolds, Wheat Flour Institute, Washington, D.C.; Dr. G.
Majorca, Spain; Dr. R. H. Smith, Aberdeen, Scotland;
Standard Brands Incorporated, Wilton, Connecticut; Mimi Terry Shoorer, Notional Museum of American History,
Dr. James L. Vetter, Donald K. Dubois, American Institute
of Baking, Monhollen, Kansas; Stacy Zochorios, Errington, London; Robert D. Fondohn, American Corn Washington, D.C.; Cathy Sharpe, Annandale, Virginia;
Alexandria, Virginia. Millers Federation, Washington, D.C.; Dr. William D . Morgoret Spader, J. Wolter Thompson Com pony, New
Garvey, Johns Hopkins University, Baltimore, Morylond; York, New York; Fiona Tillet, London; Tino Walker,
Fronk E. Goecke!, Stondord Brands Incorporated, New London; Nigel Warrington, London; Helen A. Wilber, The
Yark, New York; Foyol Greene, London; Roe Hartfield, The Providence Journal ond Evening Bulletin, Rhode Island;
The editors olso wish to thank: Christine Adams, London; Rice Council, Houston, Texas; Maggie Heinz, London; Tiggi Wood, Sussex, England; Dr. George K. York,
Dr. Eorl G. Alexander, Arrowhead Mills, Hereford, Texos; Stella Henvey, London; Brenda Joyes, London; Mario Cooperative Extension, University of California, Davis.

Picture Credits 64-top ond bottom left, 65- top ond bottom right, 68- Nineteenth Century Sources by Jim Horter, published by
69, 78-79 - bottom, 80-81 - bottom. Dover Publications, Inc., 1979,90- 167. Mary Staples, 7.
Photographs by Aldo Tutino: 16-17, 29, 36-39, 54-55, 61,
The sources for the pictures in this book ore listed be/ow. 66-67,70-71,76-77, 78-79-top, 80-81 - top, 84-88.
library of Congress Cataloguing in Publication Dora
Credits for each of the photographers and illustrators ore Time-life Books.
Other photographs (olphobeticollyl: David Davies, 74-75. Breads.
listed by page number in sequence with successive pages Alon Duns, cover, 4, 11 - bottom left, 12, 14-15, 18-22, (The Good cook, techniques & recipes!
indicated by hyphens; where necessary, the locations of 23 - bottom, 24,25 -top and bottom left, 26-28, 30-31, Includes index.
pictures within pages ore olso indicated -separated from 34-35 - bottom, 56-57- bottom, 60, 64 -bottom right, 1. Bread. t. Title. II. Series: (Good cook,
page numbers by dashes. 65-bottom left. John Elliott, 23-top, 25-bottom right. techniques & recipes)
Louis Klein, 2. Bob Komar, 11 -bottom right, 72, 82-83. TX769.T57 1981 641.8'15 80-22396
Photographs by Tom Belshaw: 10, 11 -top ond bottom ISBN 0-8094-2902-0
Illustrations: From The Mory Evens Picture Library ond
center, 32,34-35 -top, 40-52, 56-57 -top, 58-59,62-63, ISBN 0-8094-2901-2 (lib. bdg.)
private sources ond Food & Drink: A Pictorial Archive from ISBN 0-8094-2900-4 (retail)

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