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--------------------THE GOOD COOK--------------------
TECHNI QUES & RECIPES
~ h s
BY
THE EDITORS OF TIME-LIFE BOOKS
--------TIME-L IFE BOOKS/ALEXANDRIA, VIRGINIA--------
Cover: Midway through the cooking process known os
shirring (page 21 ), cream is poured over two eggs that
hove been lightly set in o little buller on the stove lop.
The upper Ioyer of while is still semiliquid; to cook it
through, the dish will go briefly into o hot oven.
Time-Life Books Inc.
is o wholly owned subsidiary of
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President: J. Richard Munro
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THE GOOD COOK
The original version of this book wos created in London lor
Time-Life International (Nederland) B.V.
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Klein; Photography Director: Pamela Morke; Planning
Director: Alan Lothian; Chief of Research: Vanessa Kromer;
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Stoff lor Eggs & Cheese: Series Coordinator: Liz Timothy;
Head Designer: Rick Bowring; Text Editor: Tony Allan;
Anthology Editor: Morkie Benet; Stoff Writers: Alexandria
Corlier, Joy Ferguson, Ellen Galford, Thorn Henvey;
Designer: Mark Walton; Researchers: Solly Crawford,
Deborah Litton; Sub-Editors: Katie Lloyd, Solly Rowland;
Design Assistants: Solly Curnock, I on Mid son, Paul Reeves;
Editorial Deportment: Pot Boog, Kate Conn, Debra Dick,
Beverly Doe, Philip Garner, Aquila Kegon, Molly
Sutherland, Julio West, Helen Whitehorn
U.S. Stoll lor Eggs & Cheese: Series Editor: Gerry Schremp;
Assistant Editor: Ellen Phillips; Designer: Ellen Robling; Chief
Researcher: Juanita Wilson; Stoff Writer: Carol Dono;
Researchers: Christine Bowie Dove (principal). Barbaro
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Coordinator: Alvin Ferrell; Editorial Assistants: Brenda
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CHIEF SERIES CONSULTANT
Richard Olney, on Ameri-
can, has lived and worked
for some three decodes in
France, where he is highly
regarded as on otthori ty
on food and wine. Author
of The French Menu Cook-
book and of the award-
winning Simple French
Food, he has also contrib-
uted to numerous gastro-
nomic magazines in
France and the United
Stoles, including the influential journals Cuisine et
Vins de France and La Revue du Vin de France. He
is o member of several distinguished gastronomic
societies, including L' Acodemie lnternotionole du
Vin, La Confrerie des Chevaliers du T ostevin and
La Commonderie du Bontemps de Medoc et des
Groves. Working in London with the series editori-
al staff, he has been basically responsible for the
planning of this volume, and has supervised the fi-
nal selection of recipes submitted by other consul-
tants. The United States edition of The Good Cook
has been revised by the Editors of Time-Life Books
to bring it into complete accord with American cus-
toms and usage.
CHIEF AMERICAN CONSULTANT
Carol Cutler i s the author of o number of cook-
books, including the award-winning The Six-Minute
Souffle and Other Culinary Delights. During the 12
years she lived in France, she studi ed at the Cor-
don Bleu and the tcole des Trois Gourmondes,
and with private chefs. She is a member of the
Cercle des Gourmettes, a long-established French
food society limited to just 50 members, and is also
a charter member of Les Domes d'Escoffier, Wash-
ington Chapter.
PHOTOGRAPHERS
John Elliott, based in London, trained at the Regent
Street Polytechnic. He has extensive experience in
photographing a wide range of subjects for adver-
tising and magazine assignments, but his special
interest is food photography.
Bob Komar is a Londoner who trained at both the
Hornsey and Manchester Schools of Art. He spe-
cializes in food photography and in portraiture.
Aida Tutino, a native of Italy, has worked in Milan,
New York City and Washington, D.C. He has won
a number of awards for his photographs from the
New York Advertising Club.
INTERNATIONAL CONSULTANTS
GREAT BRITAIN: Jone Grigson has written o number of
books about food and has been o cookery corre-
spondent for the London Observer since 1968. Alan
Davidson is the author of several cookbooks and
the founder of Prospect Books, which specializes
in scholarly publ ications about food and cookery.
Jean Reynolds, who prepared many of the dishes
for the photographs in this vol ume, is from Son
Francisco. She trained as a cook in the kitchens of
several of France's great restaurants. FRANCE: Michel
Lemonnier, the cofounder and vice president of Les
Amities Gostronomiques lnternotionales, is o fre-
quent lecturer on wine. GERMANY: Jochen Kuchen-
becker trained as o chef, but worked for 10 years
as o food photographer in several European coun-
tries before opening his own restaurant in Hom-
burg. Anne Brakemeier is the co-author of three
cookbooks. ITALY: Massimo Alberini is a well-known
food writer and journalist, with o particular interest
in culinary history. His many books include Storie
del Pranzo aff'ltaliana, 4000 Anni a Tavola and
100 Ricette Storiche. THE NETHERLANDS: Hugh Jans has
published cookbooks and his recipes a ppear in o
number of Dutch magazines. THE UNITED STATES: Julie
Dannenbaum, the director of o cooking school in
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, also conducts cooking
classes at the Grilli Palace in Venice, Italy, and at
The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, West Vi r-
ginia. She is the author of several cookbooks and
numerous magazine articles. Judith Olney, author
of Comforting Food and Summer Food, received her
culinary training in both England and France. In ad-
dition to conducting cooking classes, she regularly
writes for gastronomic magazines. Robert Shoffner,
wine and food editor of The Washingtonian maga-
zine for five years, has written many articles on
food and wine.
Correspondents: Elisabeth Kraemer (Bonn); Margot
Hopgood, Dorothy Bacon, Lesley Coleman (London);
Susan Jonas, Lucy T. Voulgoris (New York); Moria
Vincenzo Aloisi, Josephine du Brusle (Paris); Ann
Notonson (Rome).
Valuable assistance was also provided by: Jeanne Buys
(Amsterdam); Hans-Heinrich Wellmonn, Gerlroud Bellon
(Homburg); Judy Aspinall (London); Dione Asselin (Los
Angeles); Bono Schmid, Mario Teresa Morenco (Milan);
Carolyn T. Chubet, Miriam Hsio, Christina Lieberman
(New York); Michele le Boube (Paris); Mimi Murphy [Rome).
1980 Time- life International (Nederland) B.V.
1980 Time-life Books Inc. All rights reserved.
No port of this book moy be reproduced in ony form or by ony elec-
tronk: or mechanical means, including information storage and re-
trieval devices or systems, without prior written permission from the
publisher, except that brief passages moy be quoted for reviews.
Second printing. Revised 19B2.
Published simultaneously in Co node.
School end librooy distribution by Silver BurdeN Company,
Morristown, New Jersey.
TIME-LIFE is o trademark of Time Incorporated U.S.A.
For information about ony Time-life book, please write:
Reeder Information, Time-life Books
541 North Fairbanks Court, Chicago, Illinois 60611
librooy of Congress CIP dolo, page 176.
-----------------------CONTENTS-----------------------
INTRODUCTION 5 A protean pair I Egg classes and grades I Buoyancy: A
measure of freshness I Making a fresh cheese at
home I A cheese buyer's primer /Tools for
handling cheese I An array of soft and semisoft
cheese I A sampling of firm and hard cheeses
WHOLE-EGG COOKERY 19 1 The basic methods I Frying: F ~ s t cooking in shallow ..
fat I Deep frying: A route to cnsped whites I Soft-boding: Two
approaches to tender whites I Firming whites for easy
peeling I Poaching: Gentle heat for the unprotected
egg I Steaming and baking: A reliance on integral garnishes
WHOLE-EGG PRESENTATIONS 31 2 The art of assembly /Garnishes that furnish body and
flavor I A trio of basic sauces I Assemblies: Combinations
without limit I Stuffing and dressing hard- boiled
eggs I Coating to counteract dryness I Soft-centered packages
with crunchy outer crusts I A gleaming aspic ring
BEATEN- EGG COOKERY 49 3 The many guises of scrambled eggs and omelets I An
American approach to scrambling I Gentle cooking for a
custardy result I Scrambling eggs in aromatic blends / The
classic omelet: A masterpiece in a moment I Flat omelets, thick
and thin I Separating yolks and whites for a souffle effect
CHEESE COOKERY 74 A range of roles I Baki ng molded custards I Quiche: Custard
in a case I Sturdy souffle puddings steeped in a
sauce I A souffle wrapping for a savory filling I Fondue:
Molten and mellow I A choice of pastry containers I Surprise
parcels with savory centers I Pancake packages
ANTHOLOGY ~ RECIPES 91 Fried eggs 92 I Poached and mallet eggs 94 I Hard-boi led eggs
100 I Baked eggs 106 I Scrambled eggs 115 I Omelets 119 I
Custards, puddings and souffles 133 I Pies and quiches 143 I
Fondues and rabbi ts 151 I Special cheese presentations
155 I Basic cheeses 162 I Standard preparations 164
RECIPE INDEX 168
GENERAL INDEX/GLOSSARY 171
RECIPE CREDITS 174
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AND PICTURE CREDITS 176
4
----------INTRODUCTION----------
c..A Protean Pair
No foods excite more lavish praise than eggs and cheese. "All
cookery," effused the British author Henry Stacpoole, "rests on
the egg. The egg is the Atlas that supports the world of gastron-
omy." Cheese, according to the American essayist Clifton Fadi-
man, "is milk's leap toward immortality."
In terms of nutrition alone, their qualities are remarkable:
Both eggs and the milk from which all cheese is made are de-
signed by nature to be complete foods-egg for the unborn
chick, and milk for the infant mammal. And while each is held
in high esteem in its own right, eggs and cheese also make a
superb culinary pair. When used together they produce innu-
merable dishes indispensable to a cook's repertoire, from om-
elets to airy souffles like the one shown in preparation at left.
This book explores the multitudinous opportunities for sa-
vory egg and cheese cookery. A guide on pages 8-9 explains how
the size and freshness of eggs are gauged. Pages 10-11 show a
step-by-step demonstration of the home manufacture of a sim-
ple fresh cheese, one that can be served on its own or incorporat-
ed in such dishes as gratins and pies. The introductory section of
the book concludes with a primer for buying cheese and storing
it, and describes 52 of the world's best-known cheeses.
Following the introductory section, three chapters deal with
cooking eggs. Beginning with the basic methods of preparing
whole eggs by frying, poaching, boiling, steaming and baking,
these chapters go on to show how whole eggs may be used with
other ingredients to create assembled dishes, and then illus-
trate the arts of scrambling eggs and omelet making. A final
chapter features a range of dishes, from quiches to fondues , in
which cheese is a principal element-often with eggs as its
support. The second half of the book is an anthology of 220 egg
and cheese recipes, chosen from the world's cookery literature.
The marvelous egg
Eggs have been part of man's diet from earliest times. Wild
birds' eggs were no doubt a source of sustenance for primitive
man, as they are today for the last remaining hunter-gatherers.
As early as 2500 B.C. , however, the domestication offowl began
to ensure a more predictable egg supply, and since that time the
domestic hen has been carried to every corner of the globe.
Chickens are naturally prolific layers. Selective breeding has
helped to increase their individual output to 200 or more eggs in
a year (a goose, by contrast, lays only 15 to 30 eggs in the course
of a year) . Output has been boosted further by the battery-or
mass-production-farming methods that were developed in the
United States during the 1920s.
Traditionally, chickens were allowed to roam freely, existing
on a haphazard barnyard diet of grass, grain and insects. In the
modern battery system, however, large numbers of chickens-
as many as a million in some operations-are kept in indoor
cages so that all of the factors affecting egg production can be
carefully r egulated. Temperature and light are rigorously con-
trolled, and the birds are fed a diet of commercially produced
chicken feed, usually a blend of cereals and soy with added
vitamins, proteins and minerals. Because battery birds have
such a well-balanced diet, their eggs are generally higher in
quality than those that are produced by free-ranging birds.
No matter how it is produced, a top-grade, newly laid egg will
contain a firm, round yolk, surrounded by a viscous white-
technically known as albumen. Close to 90 per cent of the egg
white is water; t he rest consists of proteins. The proteins trap air
in a stable foam when the white is beaten-a quality exploited
to the full in souffles (pages 76-81).
Almost 20 per cent of the yolk is protein; the remainder is
composed of water, a plentiful supply offat, vitamins, minerals
and a fatlike substance known as cholesterol. High levels of
cholesterol in the blood are associated with an increased risk of
heart disease, and many doctors caution against eating large
quantities of eggs. However, the link between dietary intake or'
cholesterol and the amount in the bloodstream is still unclear,
especially because the body itself manufactures the substance.
The proteins of both white and yolk thicken and solidify when
heated-but each at a slightly different temperature. The
white begins to coagulate at about 140 F. [60 C.], whereas the
yolk remains liquid until about 150 F. [65 C.], and does not
become firm unt il 160 F. [70 C.] is reached. This small differ-
ence chiefly accounts for the astonishing variety of textures that
good cooks can obtain from eggs. The effects are most obvious in
whole-egg cookery, where the aim usually is to produce a firm
white surrounding a much softer yolk. But in beaten-egg cook-
ery, too, texture can be all-important. The textural range of a
single omelet, for example, might include a liquid center, a cus-
. tardy mantle around this core, and a crisp exterior.
Milk transformed
Bel Paese is smooth and buttery while feta is crumbly and
tangy; Cheshire is firm and piquant while Parmesan is granu-
lar and nutty flavored. But whatever its final texture or taste
might be, all cheese is composed of coagulated milk solids. As is
apparent by the rate at which fresh milk sours, coagulation can
be rapid; cheese making is a method of controlling and modify-
5
INTRODUCTION
ing the coagulation process to yield a product capable of matur-
ing instead of simply spoiling.
The nature of the milk begins the determination of a cheese's
taste and texture. While cow's milk is the most common source
of cheese, sheep's and goat's milk are also used. Sheep's milk
lends pungency to French Roquefort, for example; goat's milk
gives a tangy undercurrent to Greek feta and French bucheron.
In making cheese, any milk may be used whole or skimmed.
Whole milk produces cheeses with a creamy texture and a fat
content, measured as a percentage of the cheese solids, of about
45 per cent. Skim-milk cheeses have a lower fat content, but a
slightly rubbery texture. Other cheeses, such as the French dou-
ble and triple cremes, are made with cream-enriched milk; they
have a satiny texture and a fat content of 60 per cent or more.
All milk destined to become cheese must be curdled-broken
down into solid curds and fluid whey. The curds are made up of
coagulated casein, t he principal milk protein, together with the
fat that the casein enfolds. The whey includes proteins, sugar
and minerals, but it is more than 90 per cent water. Although a
few cheeses, such as Norwegian gjetost and some Italian ricot-
tas, are made by heating whey until its solid matter coagulates,
curds are the usual starting point.
Curdling occurs naturally if bacteria already present in raw
milk are allowed to flourish. As they grow in numbers, the bac-
teria produce lactic acid, which coagulates casein. However, to
kill potentially harmful organisms, much milk now used for
cheese making is first pasteurized-held briefly at a high tem-
perature. (A typical formula calls for the milk to be held at
. 161.6 F. [72 C.] for 16 seconds.) Since heating kills the useful
lactic-acid-producing bacteria, too, these have to be reintro-
duced by adding a bacterial culture, or "starter." Even so, cur-
dling can be a slow business, and another coagulating agent,
such as rennet, is frequently added to accelerate the process.
Rennet-an extract from the stomachs of unweaned calves-
speeds the separation of the curds and whey, and also converts
casein into an insoluble compound, thus yielding firmer curds.
Because of this latter property, practically all cheeses destined
for maturing are made with coagulating agents.
The traditional method of separating the curds from the
whey-and the method commonly used to produce fresh, home-
made cheese (pages 10-11) -is to allow the curds to rise natu-
rally to the surface of the whey, then to hang the partially
drained curds in a porous container so the remaining whey
drains off. Although a cloth or perforated-metal container is
normally used today, woven baskets were favored in classical
times, and these gave cheese its name in many languages. In
Greek, a basket isformos, which led t o the Frenchfromage and
the Italian formaggio. The Latin word for basket, cascus, be-
came the German kase, the Dutch kaas, the Spanish queso and
the English "cheese."
Drained curds, perhaps embellished with cream or other fla-
vorings, can be eaten immediately. Additional processing steps,
however , are required for cheeses that are to be aged. Even
before these cheeses are drained, the curds may be cut into even-
sized pieces to help expel more whey. The finer the pieces, the
more whey will be released. To produce a moist, soft cheese such
6
as Lieder kranz, the curd is typically cut at half-inch [1-cm.]
intervals. For a hard, granular cheese such as Parmesan, the
curd is reduced to minuscule pieces and t hen further dried by
heating and stirring it.
A number of cheeses-Cheddar, brick and Emmentaler,
among them- are put in presses to expel still more whey. Press-
ing establishes the shape of a cheese and its moisture content.
To develop its flavor and texture, a cheese then may be set aside
to mature for periods ranging from a few weeks to several years.
Under carefully controlled temperature and humidity levels,
various microorganisms act on the curds, breaking down fat,
proteins and other compounds to create a cheese's unique char-
acter. A blue cheese, for example, ripens from the inside out
as mold spreads throughout the porous curds, producing dis-
tinctive greenish blue veins. Cheese such as Camembert and
Brie are ripened from the surface inward by mold that forms
an edible velvety rind. Appenzeller, Port-Salut, brick and Oka
represent another variation on surface-ripened cheese; during
curing they are each washed at regular intervals with brine,
brandy or some other solution specially formulated to encour-
age a particular type of mold, yeast or bacteria to grow on the
ext erior of the cheese.
An art becomes science
The great range of cheeses developed over the centuries is large-
ly a result of customs and conditions prevailing at the local
level-the availability of particular types of milk in a district or
the presence of certain microorganisms. Roquefort cheese, for
example, acquires its blue veins by being ripened in limestone
caves harboring the mold that is now identified as Penicillium
Roqueforti. English Cheddar cheese owes its flaky texture in
part to a unique method-evolved in the village of Cheddar-
for stacking and turning the blocks of curds. Eventually, the
methods and microorganisms responsible for t he differences in
cheese were identified, and techniques were devised for apply-
ing molds and bacteria artificially to cheese. As a result, cheeses
that were once made in only one locale can now be produced
practically anywhere in the world.
Nonetheless, cheeses with the same name produced in differ-
ent places-perhaps according t o differ ent standards-may
vary widely in flavor and texture. To guard the reputation of
some of the finest cheeses, the world's cheese-making nations
signed an agreement in 1951 that allows certain names-in-
cluding Roquefort and Parmigiano Reggiano- to be used only
when the cheese is produced in the place where it originated.
Still other cheeses-including France's Brie, Italy's Provolone,
Holland's Edam and Gouda-may be replicated elsewhere, but
the label must specify the country in which the cheese is made.
Along with the internationalization of many varieties of nat-
ural cheese, technology has brought about the development
of processed cheeses. (These include the so-called American
cheeses.) Typically, these begin with one or more natural
cheeses that are pasteurized to lengthen their storage life, and
then combined with emulsifiers to produce a uniformly smooth
texture. Colorings and preservatives may be added, and the
products that are labeled cheese spreads or cheese foods also
may contain flavorings and liquid or dry milk products to in-
crease volume and create a moister, more spreadable product.
By United States government standards, only 51 per cent of the
finished weight need be the cheese ingredient. Processing yields
uniform cheeses that keep well, but they cannot duplicate the
strength of flavor and distinctive texture of natural cheeses,
which remain the best choice for cooking and eating.
Cooking with cheese
Delicious when eaten straight from the wheel or wrapper,
natural cheeses develop a creamy texture and a more intense
flavor as they are cooked. Cheddars liquefy to a golden mass as
they melt to form a Welsh rabbit. Grating cheeses-Parmesan
or Romano, for instance-disperse their pungence uniformly
when they are stirred into casseroles, or create a rich brown
gratin surface when sprinkled on top of foods and broiled or
baked. The soft cheeses, from Brie to farmer, amalgamate with
eggs and milk to produce the richest of custards.
The overriding rule when cooking cheeses is to heat them
briefly and gently. Overly high heat or prolonged cooking will
toughen proteins, making the cheese rubbery, and will also
draw out the fats in the cheese, making the finished dish oily.
Cheeses should be added to such dishes as omelets or sauces
close to the end of the cooking period. Cheese dishes that are
baked in the oven should be cooked at moderate tempera-
tures- 3250 to 375 F. [160 to 190 C.]. When broiling cheeses,
position the food about 3 inches [8 em.) from the heat source, and
be sure to watch it carefully to prevent excessive browning.
Serving wine with eggs and cheese
Although eggs are not normally regarded as suitable partners
for wine, the two can, in fact, go together very well. A rose or
light, dry white can be a pleasant companion for many egg
dishes-omelets or scrambled eggs among them. But the choice
of wine should not be automatic. Because eggs are often used as
a mild base to throw more assertive tastes into relief, the selec-
tion of wine may depend on the garnishes or flavorings used in
the finished dish. The logical accompaniment to poached eggs in
red wine sauce (recipe, page 95), for instance, is a red wine of
similar depth. A rich, creamy sauce is nicely offset by a Califor-
nia Chardonnay or perhaps a French white Burgundy; both are
dry white wines, but they have enough body so that they will not
seem thin when served with a thick sauce. In addition, these
wines generally have sufficient distinction to accompany a more
formal egg dish, such as eggs in aspic (pages 46-47).
By contrast, the gastronomic links between wine and cheese
have been, if anything, overstressed. These are not always t he
best of companions: The bouquet of a subtle wine may be killed
by a strong cheese, or the flavor of an indifferent wine may be
masked- a fact not lost on wine merchants who occasionally
offer such cheeses to prospective buyers before their less pre-
sentable vintages are tasted. For both wine and cheese to be
shown off to best advantage, they must be matched with care.
The mildest of cheeses, such as Muenster, Monterey Jack and
young brick, are best served with a correspondingly delicate
wine-a rose or a light red, such as Beaujolais-that will not
overshadow the cheese's flavor. Cheeses with a little more as-
sertiveness can stand up to wines of greater character. Port-
Salut or Brie, for example, pair nicely with an elegant red such
as a Bordeaux, as well as with a fruity white-including Cali-
fornia Chenin Blanc and French Vouvray. The creamy texture
of Brie is also nicely reinforced by the rich smoothness of one of
the fine whites from the Cote de Beaune region of France- a
Montrachet or Corton-Charlemagne, for example.
Strong-flavored cheeses need fairly robust wines. A zesty
California Zinfandel or an Italian Chianti is a good companion
for sharp Cheddar. The tanginess of Roquefort finds a nice con-
trast in the sweetness of white French dessert wines such as
Sauternes and Barsac; Stilton, the English blue cheese, is tradi-
tionally served with vintage port. Extremely strong-smelling
cheeses, such as Limburger and Liederkranz, are best with ale
or beer, since their aromas would overpower a wine's bouquet.
When wine is to be served with more than one cheese at a
t i m e w i t ~ a cheese platter, for example-your own palate is
the best guide, because the wine will take on a different charac-
t e ~ with each kind of cheese. The best strategy is to select the
wme first, then sample a variety of cheeses until you find those
most compatible with the wine. The process of discovery is likely
to be a long and happy one.
7
INTRODUCTION
Egg Classes and Grades
Mass production and distribution, along-
with uniform grading, take most of the
guesswork out of buying eggs. Almost all
of the eggs sold at retail are classed ac-
cording to size, and graded for quality
and freshness by virtually identical fed-
eral or state government standards.
Egg size, which increases with the age
of the hen, is gauged by an egg's weight;
the U.S. Department of Agriculture lists
six size categories (below). In cooking
whole eggs, the sizes can be used inter-
changeably. But with beaten eggs, the
quantities specified in recipes may call
for some adjustment, since most recipes
are predicated on large-sized eggs.
Quality is determined by checking the
shell for shape, cleanliness and smooth-
ness; and then examining its contents
through the shell with the aid of lighted,
automated racks. The interior quality is
judged by the thickness of the white, the
Buoyancy: A Measure of Freshness
A newly laid egg. To test the age of an
egg, place it in water. A newly laid egg has
only a tiny air pocket and is relatively
heavy; it sinks and lies fl at on the bottom.
A week-old egg. The air pocket, which
forms in the broad, rounded end, expands
and gives the egg buoyancy. The egg tilts
in the water with its brood end uppermost.
Egg sizes. The six official classifications for eggs, shown at
right in actual average size, ore determined by the minimum
weight allowed per dozen. Jumbo eggs must weigh at least
30 ounces [850 g.] per dozen, extra-large eggs 27 ounces [7 65
g.], Iorge eggs 24 ounces [680 g.], medium eggs 21 ounces
[595 g.], small eggs 18 ounces [510 g.] and peewee eggs 15
ounces [425 g.]. The weights of the eggs within a dozen con
vary by as much as 5 per cent, so that the smallest egg
allowed in one classification may be the some size as the
largest egg allowed in the classification below it.
8
Jumbo
compactness of the yolk and the amount
of air in the egg. In a newly laid egg, the
white is surrounded by a pair of mem-
branes that cling to each other and the
shell. As the egg ages, carbon dioxide and
water evaporate through the shell pores;
at the same time, air is absorbed, produc-
ing a visible pocket between the mem-
branes at the egg's broad end.
The best, freshest eggs with the firm-
est yolks and smallest air pockets are
A three-week-old egg. As the egg ages,
the air pocket continues to expand
until the egg becomes buoyant enough to
stand upright in the water.
Extra Iorge
graded AA; slightly older eggs are grad-
ed A. Grade B eggs, only rarely available
to the consumer, have thin whites and
enlarged yolks and sometimes stained
shells. Except for these, shell color is un-
related to quality; it is determined by the
breed of hen that laid the egg. Brown or
white specks on shells are the harmless
result of uneven pigmentation or water
molecules trapped in the pores.
Once sized, graded and packed, eggs
generally reach the supermarket within
four or five days. The grading date ap-
pears on the carton as a number: 048, for
example, means they were graded on
February 17, the 48th day of the year.
You also can judge an egg's freshness
by the tests shown below. The buoyancy
test measures the size of the egg's air
pocket, hence its age. The dispersion test
reflects chemical changes in the egg that
govern its suitability for various cooking
Dispersion: A Manifestation of Age
A newly laid egg. The yolk of the egg is
compact and rounded. It is held near the
egg's center by a dense, cohesive layer of
white surrounded by a small, fluid outer layer.
A week-old egg. The dense layer of
whi te becomes progressively more fluid,
mergi ng into the thinner white. The yolk
moves away from the center of the white.
Large
Medium Small
methods. The firm, round yolks and cohe-
sive whites of newly laid eggs are impor-
tant in poaching and frying. Older eggs
are best for boiling and peeling; the con-
tents of newly laid eggs cling so closely to
the shell membranes that the eggs are
hard to peel. Though eggs are edible until
about five weeks of age, those more than
two weeks old are best used where ap-
pearance is not a factor-for scrambling,
omelet making, baking or in sauces.
A three-week-old egg. The yolk
spreads out and flattens. The egg' s white
thins to a uniform watery consistency.
9
INTRODUCTION
Making a Fresh Cheese at Home
The basic principles of cheese making ap-
ply alike to the simplest fresh cheeses-
farmer, cottage, ricotta arid cream cheese
(recipes, pages 162-164) - and to the var-
ied matured cheeses illustrated on pages
14-17. By producing the farmer cheese
shown here, you will gain an understand-
ing of the essential techniques.
The first step in making any cheese is
to curdle milk-separate it into coagu-
lated curds and liquid whey. Bacteria
that produce lactic acid do this naturally
with raw milk, but almost all milk sold in
America is pasteurized-heated to kill
bacteria, including those that manufac-
ture lactic acid from the milk's sugar.
In order to make cheese from pasteur-
ized milk-whether whole milk, skim
milk or milk enriched with cream-you
must add a so-called starter. Here the
starter is buttermilk, which contains an
active bacterial culture. When added to
milk, the bacteria will multiply rapidly
and within a day or less will produce
enough lactic acid to coagulate the milk.
An alternative way. of coagulating milk
is to use a food acid, such as lemon j uice or
vinegar, but this yields a blander cheese
than one made with buttermilk.
To speed coagulation, the starter is of-
ten mixed with rennet, a substance taken
from the stomachs of unweaned calves
and sold in tablet form at supermarkets
and pharmacies. Before the starter and
rennet are added, the milk must be heat-
ed to so F. [27 C.], a temperature high
enough to promote coagulation, but not
so hot that it kills the bacteria. Use a
dairy thermometer or a rapid-response
type to test the temperature.
Once the milk coagulates, the mixture
must be drained of whey. First, the curds
are put in a piece of muslin or cheesecloth
and left in a colander. After most of the
whey has dripped through, the cloth is
tied up into a bag and suspended, so that
the curds drain under their own weight.
As soon as they acquire a firm consis-
tency, the curds can be used in any recipe
calling for farmer cheese. Or they may be
served as a table cheese, either as is or
with various enrichments and flavorings
- cream, salt and pepper, a tangy blend
of herbs such as chives, burnet and basil,
or a sweetening of grated chocolate or
chopped fruits and cinnamon.
10
l
Heati ng t he mi lk. Set a wire rock in a
pot half-filled with water and heat to 90
F.[32 C. ] on a thermometer - a dairy
thermometer is shown. Immediately
remove the pot from the heat. Pour milk
into a nonol uminum pan - aluminum
may affect flavor - and set the pan on
the rock in the water. When the milk
reaches so F. [2?- C.] stir in buttermilk.
6
Completing the draining. Tie the
string to a support - a ceiling hook, for
example - so that the bog hongs free
above the bowl, whi ch will collect the
dripping whey. Allow the bog to drain
for six to 1 0 hours. Take it down two or
three times to check the cheese; if the
texture seems uneven, scrape the outside
cheese into the center.
2
Test ing the consistency. Cover
the pan of milk tightly. Leave the milk at
room temperature - between 65
and 70 F. [18 to 21 C.] - for up to 24
hours, or until the curds form a solid
layer above the whey. When a knife
inserted into the curds comes out
clean, the curds are fi rm enough.
7
Unwrapping the cheese. When
the curds are firm, toke down the bag,
untie it and peel the cloth away from
the moss of cheese (above). Invert the
cheese onto a dish and refrigerate it,
covered, unless it is to be served
immediately. You con drink the whey
ei ther lightly salted or sweetened and
mixed with fruit juice.
3
8
Ladling out the curd. Place muslin or
cheesecloth in a colander set in a sink
and pour boiling water over the cloth to
sterilize it. With tongs, fold the cloth
double and use it to line the col ander.
Place the lined colander over a deep
bowl. Carefully ladle in the curds: Gentle
treatment at this stage ensures that
the cheese will drain evenly.
Serving the cheese. Serve the
cheese unseasoned, or break it up with a
fork (right) and incorporate salt and
pepper and any additional fl avorings. If
unsalted, the cheese should be used
on the day it is made. If it is salted, it can
be refrigerated for two or three days.
4
Scraping the cloth. Cover the
curds wi th a pan lid or a piece of sterile
cloth. Let the curds drain for about five
hours, until the surface begins to dry out.
With a spoon, scrape the dry curds at
the sides of the liner onto the damper
curds at the center of the mass.
5
Tying up the cloth. With the
colander still set in the bowl, pull together
the corners of the cloth to form a bag
that encloses the curds completely. Tie
the bag with string, leaving one end of
string long enough to hang up the bag.
11
INTRODUCTION
A Cheese Buyer's Primer
Curdled milk drained of its liquid whey is
the basis of almost all cheese. Served
fresh, the curds become simple cottage
cheese or farmer cheese (pages 10-11) .
But the curds may also be heated or
pressed to expel more whey, packed into
molds and ripened in various ways to
make any of 800 different cheeses. Are-
presentative sampling of them appears
on the following pages. For convenience,
this selection is divided between soft and
firm cheeses, but each category includes
a range of textures. Soft cheeses can be as
creamy as Brie or as crumbly as feta; firm
cheeses vary in texture from supple Gou-
da to granular sapsago.
The taste of a cheese varies according
to the milk it is made from, the way it is
made and the time it is aged. Goat's-milk
cheeses have a strong, musky taste quite
distinct from those made of cow's milk.
Blue cheeses-those treated with molds
that form blue or green veins throughout
the cheese-also tend to be strong tast-
ing .. Aging intensifies a cheese' s taste: A
young Cheddar is mild; one aged for a
year will be quite sharp.
All these cheeses and many more are
described in detail in the glossary on t he
pages that follow. Remember, however,
12
Tools for Handling Cheese
Shredding in a processor. Use the
shredding disk of a processor, and put the
semisoft or firm cheese chunks -
Emmentoler, here - in the tube; press wi th the
pusher as the machine runs. Hard cheese
con be grated wi th the processor's steel blade.
that the descriptions are general guide-
lines: The way to determine whether a
cheese satisfies you is to taste it, and this
is best done before you buy.
How to shop: Cheeses develop at different
rates, but all are continuously ripening
and changing in character, and all are
perishable. Any cheese for sale should be
kept under refrigeration; cold retards de-
velopment. A supermarket is a reliable
source for fresh cheeses such as cottage
and cream cheese or its skim-milk coun-
terpart Neufchatel, because the stock
sells rapidly and a cheese is unlikely to
linger too long on the shelf. However, for
ripened cheese-particularly the rarer
imported types and delicate soft cheeses
enriched with cream-the best source is
a cheese shop or specialty market whose
staff is likely to be knowledgeable about
selecting and caring for cheese.
The better shops stock their cheeses in
large wheels, blocks or cylinders, cutting
off portions to order. This storage method
has several advantages over prepackag-
ing. First, it helps preserve the cheese: A
cut cheese dries out more quickly than
one left whole. It allows you to buy the
exact amount of cheese you need. Final-
ly, when cheese is cut from a large block
or wheel you have an opportunity to ex-
Cutting with a wire. To cut wedges or
slices, stretch a cheese wire tout and pass it
through the cheese. The wire con cut all but
the hardest cheeses, and is excellent for
crumbly cheeses - blue, in this case - that
tend to stick to o knife blade.
amine and taste a sample before making
your purchase.
When examining any cheese, begin
by smelling it-any hint of ammonia
means the cheese is overaged and will
be unpleasant tasting. Look at the rind:
On a cheese with a soft rind such as
Pont l'Eveque, it should be evenly col-
ored and somewhat moist. On a firm-
rinded cheese such as Emmentaler, it
should be free of cracks or bulges, which
indicate improper ripening.
You cannot see the rind on wax-coated
cheeses such as Gouda, of course, but you
can press the cheese, as you should any
other, to see how it responds. Good Gouda
feels elastic, as do most firm cheeses, ex-
cept lengthily aged ones such as Parme-
san, which will feel quite hard. Do not
buy a firm cheese in which you can feel
any soft spots. Soft cheeses such as Brie
or Camembert should feel supple and
slightly soft, but not at all liquid.
When the cheese is sliced, you will be
able to observe the interior. With the
exception of blue cheeses, which should
be well veined, the cheese should be even
in color. White spots within a yellow
cheese are a sign of inferior quality. A
gray line under the rind of a Brie means
~
Slicing with a double wire. A fairly firm
cheese, such as this Gouda, con be sliced with
a double-wi re cutter. The cutter rod runs
along the cheese surface, acting as a guide.
Taut wires on each side of the rod allow you
to make sli ces of two different thicknesses.
that it is old, while a white line through
the center of this type of cheese means
that it has not yet fully ripened.
Brie, Camembert and certain other
cheeses described in the glossary are
sometimes made from raw rather than
pasteurized milk. As a result, season-
ality may be a factor in buying them.
Cheeses made from pasteurized milk are
fairly uniform in quality throughout the
year, but raw-milk cheeses are best made
from spring and summer or fall milk,
taken when the cows graze in pastures
rather than feeding on grain or hay, as
they do in winter. The optimal time to
purchase a raw-milk cheese depends on
its ripening period. Reblochon, which is
aged only briefly, is made in the summer
and tastes best in late fall and winter; a
Livarot made at the same time may not
reach its peak until the following spring.
How to store: The prime rules for storing
any cheese are that it should be well cov-
ered to prevent it from drying, and that it
should be refrigerated to slow down its
inevitable development.
Soft, fresh cheeses such as cottage or
farmer's cheese are best kept in plastic or
wax-coated containers. Protect the ex-
Shaving with a plane. This slicer -
consisting of a sharp-edged slit set into a
spatula-like blade - is pulled across the
surface of cheese to make paper-thin slices. It
con be used wi th semisoft or firm cheeses; a
caraway-studded Danbo is shown.
posed surfaces of all other cheeses by
sealing the cheeses in aluminum foil or
plastic wrap. All strong-smelling cheeses
such as Limburger should also be stored
in tightly covered containers; otherwise,
their odors may permeate other foods in
the refrigerator.
No matter how carefully cheeses are
treated, they will continue to ripen-to
the point of overripeness or spoiling-in
the refrigerator. As a general rule, un-
cured and soft cheeses are the most per-
ishable: They usually should be eaten
within a week of purchase. Firmer, drier
cheeses-Cheddars and Swiss cheeses,
for instance-may last several months.
Very dry, aged cheeses such as Parmesan
will keep almost indefinitely.
Even properly stored cheese may de-
velop surface molds. These may simply
be sliced off; cut inch [1 em.] below the
mold to make sure you have removed it
all. Dried-out bits of cheese may be sal-
vaged too; shred or grate the cheese, store
it in a tightly covered container, and
use it in cooked dishes as soon as possible.
How to use: If the cheese will be eaten as
is, bring it to room temperature so that
its flavor-muted by refrigeration-can
develop. Small cheeses need about an
hour's warming; large wheels or blocks
Shredding with a flat grater. Use a
grater wi th small or large holes, depending on
the fineness needed. Broce it over a plate.
Rub sections of cheese - Cheddar is shown -
down against the holes. All but very soft or
crumbly cheeses may be shredded this way.
may require as much as two hours' , de-
pending on the temperature of the room.
Cheeses to be used in cooked dishes
(pages 70-90) do not need to be warmed;
when chilled, in fact, they are most easily
sliced, shredded or grated for incorpora-
tion into other ingredients. Some of the
implements suited to these tasks and the
types of cheeses appropriate for each are
described below.
Cheeses can enhance an immense vari-
ety of dishes. Soft cheeses, for example,
lend body and delicate taste to assem-
blies such as tarts and cheese pancakes.
The firmer cheeses are typically used
in baked meat or vegetable dishes or
to enliven souffies, omelets or sauces.
Hard cheeses provide flavorful toppings
for soups or baked dishes.
As the descriptions on the following
pages suggest, many cheeses are so simi-
lar in flavor and texture that they can be
used interchangeably. A Colby or a Gou-
da can be substituted for Cheddar, for in-
stance; Jarlsberg or Gruyere can replace
Emmentaler; Romano or Asiago can sub-
stitute for Parmesan. In cooking with
cheese-as in buying it-adventurous
experimentation is the rule: The result
can be the most delightful of surprises.
Using a rotary grater. For hard cheese -
Parmesan, in this demonstration - fit a
rotary grater with a fine-holed drum; use a
drum with larger holes for softer cheeses.
Place cheese pieces in the receptacle, squeeze
the pressure plate and turn the drum.
13
INTRODUCTI ON
An Array of Soft and Semisoft Cheeses
Pyramide
Oka
Feta
As an aid to selecting natural cheeses, a
sampling of 52 of the most common kinds
is shown here and on the following pages.
The cheeses are grouped by texture: Soft
and semisoft cheeses appear above, hard
and firm cheeses on pages 16-17.
Each entry in the glossary includes the
cheese's country of origin, shape, texture
and flavor. Unless otherwise noted, the
cheese is made from pasteurized whole or
partly skimmed cow's milk and has a but-
terfat content, measured as a percentage
of cheese solids, of about 40 to 50 per cent.
When the use of skim milk or cream al-
ters the fat content-and therefore the
richness-of a cheese, it is noted in the
glossary entry.
Raw-milk cheeses, which can vary in
quality through the year, are identified
and their peak seasons listed. Entries
also tell whether a cheese is made from
sheep's or goat's milk, since these cheeses
have flavors quite distinct from those
14
Boursault
Creom havarti r
made of cow's milk. Finally, entries indi-
cate cases in which different degrees of
aging affect taste or texture.
Austrian Monastery: Austria. Wheel
shaped. Buttery, semisoft; mild flavor.
Banon: France. Raw goat's milk; best
from late spring to early fall. Dis k
shaped, sometimes wrapped in chestnut
leaves. Soft texture; mild, lemony taste.
Bel Paese: Italy and elsewhere. Wheel
shaped. Semisoft; mild, buttery flavor.
Bleu de Bresse: France. Whole cow's or
goat's milk. Wheel shaped. Soft, creamy-
textured, blue-veined cheese; milder fla-
vor than most blues.
Boursault: France. Cream-enriched;
75 per cent fat. Wrapped in paper; boxed.
Soft, smooth texture; buttery taste.
Brick: United States. Brick shaped.
Semisoft, elastic texture; flavor is mildly
sweet when aged two to three months,
more pungent with longer aging.
Brie: France and elsewhere. Pasteur-
Livarot
ized or r aw, whole or skimmed cow's
milk. (Raw-milk versions best in fall,
winter and spring. ) Disk shaped. Soft,
creamy texture; buttery flavor.
Bucheron: France. Raw goat's milk;
best in spring and summer. Log shaped.
Soft, creamy; slightly tangy flavor.
Camembert: France and elsewhere.
Raw or past eurized whole cow's milk.
(Raw-milk versions best from October to
May.) Disk shaped. Soft, creamy texture;
slightly tangy taste.
Cream havarti: Denmark and else-
where. Cream-enriched; 60 per cent fat.
Loaf or wheel shaped. Semisoft; buttery,
often enlivened with caraway seeds.
Feta: Greece and elsewhere. Sheep's,
goat's or cow's milk. Rectangular. Soft,
crumbly; tangy, salty flavor. '
Gorgonzola: Italy. Whole cow's and/or
goat's milk. Wheel shaped. Semisoft blue
Brick
Mozzarella
-
Roquefort
cheese; a piquant flavor after aging for
three months, more pungent when aged
up to a year.
Liederkranz: United States. Rectangu-
lar; boxed. Soft, smooth texture, assert-
ive flavor and strong aroma.
Limburger: Belgium and elsewhere.
Rectangular. Soft texture; very strong
taste and aroma.
Livarot: France. Raw, partly skimmed
cow's milk; best in winter and spring.
Disk shaped. Soft; similar to Camembert
but spicier and stronger in aroma.
Monterey Jack: United States. Wheel
shaped. Semisoft texture and mild flavor
when aged three to six weeks; hard grat-
ing texture and zestier taste when aged
up to six months.
Montrachet: France. Raw goat's milk;
best in spring and early summer. Log
shaped. Soft, creamy texture; relative-
Bel Paese
ly mild flavor for a goat's-milk cheese.
Mozzarella: Italy and elsewhere.
Whole or skimmed cow's milk. Irregular
spherical shape. Fresh varieties found in
Italian markets have a tender, spongy
texture and mild flavor; cheeses aged up
to two months are drier and more elastic.
Muenster: Germany and elsewhere.
Wheel or block shaped. Semisoft. Ameri-
can brands, aged from six to eight weeks,
are mild and usually have light orange
rinds; rindless European varieties, cured
up to three months, are more, pungent.
Oka: Canada. Wheel shaped. Semisoft
texture; similar to French Port-Salut but
with a more tangy, fruity flavor.
Pipo Crem': France. Cream-enriched;
60 per cent fat. Log shaped. Soft, smooth-
textured blue cheese with a flavor simi-
lar to that of bleu de Bresse.
Pont l'Eveque: France. Raw milk; best
in fall and winter. Boxed; square. Soft
and supple; piquant taste, strong aroma.
Port-Salut: France. Wheel shaped.
Smooth texture and buttery flavor simi-
lar to Oka or Austrian Monastery.
Pyramide: France. Raw goat's milk;
best in the spring and summer. Pyrami-
dal. Soft texture; tangy taste. Sometimes
called V alenc;ay.
Reblochon: France. Raw whole cow's
milk; best in late fall and early winter.
Disk shaped. Soft texture; mild flavor.
Roquefort: France. Raw sheep's milk;
best from June to October. Cylindrical.
Semisoft blue-veined cheese with sharp-
er flavor than most blues.
Taleggio: Italy. Raw milk; best in sum-
mer and fall. Squarish shape. Semisoft
texture; creamy flavor.
Tomme de Savoie: France. Raw milk;
best from late spring to fall; 20 to 40 per
cent fat. Disk shaped. Semisoft, supple
texture; nutty taste and earthy smell.
15
INTRODUCTION
A Sampling of Firm and Hard Cheeses
Unlike the soft cheeses shown on the pre-
vious pages, the firm and hard natural
cheeses presented here all have a fairly
low moisture content. During processing,
whey is expelled by such methods as close
cutting of the curd, heating and pressing.
Lengthy aging also increases a cheese's
dryness and, therefore, its hardness.
Appenzeller: Switzerland. Raw milk;
_ best in summer and fall. Wheel shaped.
Firm texture; fruity taste from wine or
- cider wash during curing.
Asiago: Italy and elsewhere. Partly
- skimmed milk; 30 to 40 per cent fat. Cy-
lindrical. Semisoft and mild when aged
two months; firm texture, zesty flavor
when aged a year and marked "old."
Caerphilly: Wales. Raw milk; best in
16
late summer. Wheel shaped. Firm, flaky
texture; slightly salty flavor.
Cantal: France. Raw milk; best in sum-
mer and fall. Cloth-covered; cylindrical.
Firm supple texture; piquant nutty taste.
Cheddar: England and elsewhere.
Wheel shaped. Firm; mild when aged
two months, sharp when aged 12 months.
Cheshire: England. Cylindrical. Firm
texture. Mellow, Cheddar taste if white
or orange, piquant if blue-veined.
Danbo: Denmark and elsewhere.
Wheel shaped. Firm; mild Emmentaler-
like flavor enlivened with caraway seeds.
Edam: Holland and elsewhere. Whole
or part-skim milk; minimum 40 per cent
fat. Loaf or sphere shape; typically en-
cased in red wax. Firm; mild when aged
two months, tangy when aged longer.
Emmentaler: Switzerland. Part-skim
raw or pasteurized milk. Wheel shaped.
Firm texture; cherry-sized holes; mild,
nutlike flavor. Similar so-called Swiss
cheeses produced worldwide.
Fontina: Italy and elsewhere. Whole
cow's or sheep's milk. Wheel shaped.
Firm; nutty flavor, distinct odor.
Gjetost: Norway. Whey of cow's and
goat's milk; 33 per cent fat. Loaf or small
foil-wrapped cube shape. Firm texture;
brown color and sweetish flavor from
milk sugar caramelizing during boiling.
Gouda: Holland and elsewhere. Wheel
- -
Pecorino Romano
Cheshire
Sage Derby
shaped, usually wax-coated. Firm; mild,
nutty taste when aged two to six months
and tangy when cured longer.
Gruyere: Switzerland and elsewhere.
Large wheel shape. Firm texture; small,
widely dispersed holes; nutty flavor.
Jarlsberg: Norway. Wheel shaped.
Firm, buttery texture; tingly taste, simi-
lar to Emmentaler and Gruyere.
Mimolette: France. Flattened ball. Re-
silient, firm; mild Cheddar flavor.
Noekkelost: Norway and United
States. Part-skim milk. Norwegian ver-
sions as low as 20 per cent fat; whole-
milk domestic versions are 50 per cent
fat . Loaf and cylindrical. Firm; spicy
from added cumin, cloves and caraway.
Parmesan: Italy and elsewhere. Those
labeled Parmigiano Reggiano (shown be-
low) are made only in Italy. Part-skim
milk; 32 to 38 per cent fat. Cylindrical.
Hard, dry, granular; sharp, nutty flavor.
Pecorino Romano: Italy. Sheep's milk;
38 per cent fat . Cylindrical. Hard; ex-
tremely sharp flavor . The goat's-milk
version, caprino Romano, has a similar
flavor; cow's-milk vacchino Romano is
comparatively mild. Cow's-milk Romano
made in the United States is even milder.
Provolone: Italy and elsewhere. Usu-
ally smoked. Pear, sausage and other
shapes, often wax-coated and bound with
cord. Firm, elastic; mild after six months'
Parmesan
aging, piquant if aged up to 14 months.
Raclette: Switzerland. Wheel shaped.
Firm texture; mellow flavor.
Ricotta Salata: Italy. Sheep's milk.
Wheel shaped. Semisoft when aged two
months, hard if aged longer; pungent.
Sage Derby: England. Wheel shaped.
Firm; Cheddar flavor enlivened by sage
leaves. American version called sage.
Sapsago: Switzerland. A mixture of
whey, skim milk and buttermilk; 5 to 9
per cent fat. Small cone shape. Hard,
granular texture; piquant flavor enliv-
ened by powdered clover leaves.
Stilton: England. Cylindrical. Firm,
slightly crumbly-textured blue cheese;
milder than Roquefort or Gorgonzola.
Swiss: See Emmentaler.
17
-----------1----
Cookery
The GJ3asic
Perfect fried eggs
The double cooking of shirred eggs
The unique effects of deep frying
Soft-boiling to serve from the shell
A range of firmness for peeled eggs
Neat results from poaching
The benefits of baking
Tossed from its pan with a sweeping
motion of the arm, a fried egg turns in
mid-air to bring the top into contact with
the hot pan. Once turned, the egg will
need only a few seconds' additional
frying to firm the white around the yolk.
Whether fried, boiled, poached, baked or steamed, eggs that are cooked
whole, without stirring or beating, share a need for gentle heat to keep
whites tender and yolks moist. Aside from this constraint , the methods
have little in common; each makes different demands on the cook.
When eggs are fried in a shallow layer of butter or oil, for example,
the temperature must be set low to prevent the undersides from burning
while the tops cook. For eggs that are to be served sunny-side up, the tops
can be firmed quickly by covering the pan with a lid that will reflect heat
down ward (page 21) . AI ternati vely, the eggs can be turned, either with a
spatula or by tossing them (opposite) . A variation of shallow frying is to
shirr eggs by setting the undersides in melted butter on the stove top,
and finishing the eggs in the oven (page 21) .
Deep frying an egg helps to solve the problem of uneven cooking by
applying all-around heat. However, to preserve the egg's tenderness, the
temperature of the oil or fat must be markedly lower than is the case
when deep frying most foods, and the white must be neatly and quickly
folded around the yolk to protect it from overcooking.
Shells protect eggs cooked intact in water, a process called boiling,
although, in fact, the water must be at a simmer to avoid toughening the
whites. Because the cooking is concealed, accurate timing is essential: It
may vary from three minutes for an egg to be eaten from the shell (page
23) to 10 minutes for an egg that is to be peeled (page 25) .
For poaching-immersing eggs in hot liquid without the protection
of their shells-the temperature should be below a simmer: Bubbling
liquid would break up the whites. The best way to control the tempera-
ture is to bring the liquid to a boil, then turn off the heat before adding
the eggs. Covered with a lid, the pan and its contents stay warm enough
to cook the eggs in a few minutes (pages 26-27). Only the freshest eggs
should be poached; their firm whites will cling to well-centered yolks.
Shaping is no problem when eggs are cooked in containers by baking
or steaming. The use of containers also makes it possible for other ingre-
dients, such as vegetable purees, t o be cooked along with t he eggs. Bak-
ing is most commonly done in an oven preheated to about 350 F. [180
C.]. Steaming is done in a covered water bath, placed eit her in the oven or
on the stove top (page 29).
19
WHOLE-EGG COOKERY
Frying: Fast Cooking in Shallow Fat
When eggs are cooked in a thin layer of
fat, heat is directed at them only from
below. If the eggs are served sunny-side
up, the cook's task is to ensure that the
tops of the eggs cook at the same time the
bottoms do, so that the thick rings of
white surrounding the yolks set before
the undersides burn. Basting the eggs by
spooning fat over them will help cook the
tops. In addition, you can cover the skil-
let with a lid to reflect heat downward, as
shown in the top demonstration at right.
Alternatively, you can turn eggs over
midway through frying, so that both the
tops and the bottoms are brought into
contact with the heated surface of the
pan (right, bottom). You will find it easi-
est to reverse eggs with the aid of a spat-
ula (Step 2, bottom), but some virtuosos
prefer to flip eggs by tossing them, as
shown on page 18. Because of the diffi-
culty of flipping eggs simultaneously, or
of turning several in one pan, both of
these techniques work best with one or at
most two eggs.
Whichever frying method you choose,
you should add the eggs to the skillet as
soon as the fat is hot to prevent it from
burning and spoiling the taste of the fin-
ished dish. The fresh flavor of melted but-
ter marries well with eggs; so does the
fruity tang of olive oil.
Most cooks break the eggs directly into
the fat, but some prefer to crack eggs onto
a plate and then slide them into the pan
so that if a shell accidentally crumbles,
the fragments can be easily removed. Af-
ter cooking the eggs, you can mix a little
vinegar or lemon juice with additional
melted butter in the pan to make a sim-
ple sauce (Step4, opposite page, bottom).
Shirring eggs is an extension of the
pan-frying technique: The eggs start to
cook on top of the stove, and are then
placed in an oven or under a broiler to set
the whites (box, opposite). Gratin dishes
just large enough for one or two eggs are
traditionally used for this method. For
the second stage of cooking, cream may
be added to the eggs to enrich their flavor
and give them a melting smoothness.
20
Reflecting Heat with a Pan Lid
1
Breaking the eggs. In a skillet
over low to medium heat, warm sufficient
butter to cover the bottom of the pan
generously. As soon as the butter foams,
break as many eggs into the skillet as
it will hold easi ly - up to four eggs in a
pan 12 inches [30 em.] in diameter.
Turned Eggs with a Simple Sauce
1
Adding the egg to the pan. Melt
butter over low heat until it starts to foam.
Break an egg into the hot butter (Step
I , top) . Alternatively, break the egg onto
a small dish or saucer and slide it into
the skillet(obove). Cook the egg until the
underside sets - about one minute.
2
2
Basting the eggs. Once all of the
eggs hove been added, tilt the skillet and
use a spoon to collect the butter on the
lower side. Baste the eggs with the hot
butter two or three times so that the
tops start cooking. If the ski llet is fil led
with eggs, it may be difficult to collect
the fat; in that case, melt some butter in a
separate pan and use it for basting.
Turning the egg over. Slide a spatula
far enough underneath the egg
to support the yolk and as much of the
white as possible. Raise the spatula a
little, then turn it sideways so the egg
slips bock into the skill et, yol k side down.
3
3
Covering the pan. To set the thick
layer of white surrounding each yolk,
cover the skillet with a lid to reflect heat
onto the tops of the eggs. After obout
one minute, remove the lid. The eggs are
ready as soon as the whites set; the yolks
should be soft and glistening.
Tipping out the egg. Turn off the
burner and allow the heat of the pan
to cook the egg for a few seconds
more to set the white surrounding the
yolk. Then tilt the pan to slide the egg
out onto a warmed plate.
4
Serving the eggs. Take the skillet
off the heat. Gently shake the pan to free
the eggs, then carefully tilt it to
slide the eggs onto a warmed serving
plate. Season to taste with salt and
pepper, and serve the eggs at once.
4
Making a pan-juice sauce. Using
the same ski llet, mel t a littl e more butter
over medium heat; when it foams, add a
dash of vinegar. Sti r the butter-and-
vinegar mixture for a few seconds, then
pour it over the egg. Serve at once.
An Oven Finish
l
Adding cream. Melt butter in a
small gratin dish over medium heat,
using a heat-diffusing pad if the dish
is ceramic. Break in eggs, cook them
about a minute, until the undersides
set, then take the dish off the heat.
Pour cream over the eggs (above).
2
Serving the eggs. Place the
dish in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.]
oven and bake for four or five
minutes, until the whites set
uniformly. Serve the eggs in the
gratin dish, set on a plate to protect
the table from its heat.
21
WHOLE-EGG COOKERY
Deep Frying: A Route to Crisped Whites
Deep frying is a cooking method not often
associated with eggs-and in fact the
usual deep-frying temperatures of 350
to 375 F. [180 to 190 C.] would burn
eggs and make them rubbery. But if the
oil or fat is kept at about 250 F. [120 C.],
the eggs become crisp and brown outside
while remaining soft and moist within.
The cooking process is rapid-it takes
about a minute-and calls for some dex-
terity. To prevent overcooking, the white
must be folded around the yolk as soon as
the egg is immersed. Any white not sub-
merged must be basted constantly to
cook evenly. So delicate is this procedure
that only one egg can be cooked at a time.
The choice of oil or fat is a matter of
taste. Neutral-tasting peanut or corn oil
will leave the eggs' flavor unchanged. 01-
1
ive oil will impart a fruity savor, and lard
will lend a faint sweetness.
Heat the oil or fat to the proper tem-
perature before adding the egg. Test it
with a rapid-response thermometer or
drop in a stale bread cube-the oil or fat
should sizzle but not brown the bread.
2
22
Draining the egg. When the white
appears fi rm and starts to brown, lift the
egg out of the oil with a perforated
spoon. Let excess oil drip back into the
pan, then set the egg on paper towels
to drain. Use more towels to blot any
remaining oil from the top of the egg.
3
Setting the white. In a fryi ng pan, heat Y2 to 1 inch [1 to
2 Y2 em.) of oil until it is sizzling hot. Break an egg into the oil, then
immediately tilt the pan to form a wel l of oil deep enough to
immerse the egg. Wi th a spoon, ease the exposed white away from
the base of the pan (above, left) . Gently fold the white over the
yolk to enclose it. The doubled layers of white(right) will protect the
yol k from the heat and prevent it from overcooking.
Serving the egg. Season the egg to taste and serve at
once- in this case, on a slice of bread that has been buttered on
one side and crisped for 5 minutes in a preheated 400F.
[200C.) oven. If you li ke, garnish the egg with parsley, fried for a
few seconds in the hot oil and drained on paper towels.
Soft-boiling: Two Approaches toT ender Whites
The simplest way to cook an egg is to im-
merse it, shell and all, in hot water. If the
egg is intended to be eaten from its shell,
its white must be kept tender. The quick-
est method for accomplishing this, as
shown at right, is to bring a saucepan of
water to a gentle bubble, plunge in t he
egg, and let it simmer uncovered over low
heat. Vigorous boiling would overcook
the outside of the white, making it tough
and leathery.
The timing depends on the degree of
doneness you want as well as on the size
of t he egg and its freshness. If the egg is
medium-sized, allow three minutes for a
barely congealed white (Step 3, right) ,
five minutes for a firm white. A large egg
will be ready in four to six minutes. How-
ever, add another minute to times if the
egg is newly laid; its compact white will
take longer to set than the thinner, more
alkaline white of an older egg.
An even gentler, if slower, method for
soft-boiling an egg is coddling it. For this
method, the water is brought to a boil,
then removed from the heat before t he
egg is immersed. Covered with a lid, the
water will cook a medium-sized egg in six
to 10 minutes and a large egg in eight to
12 minutes-according to how firm you
want the white.
With either method, the egg must be
brought to room temperature before it
can be immersed; otherwise, the sudden
change in temperature is likely to crack
the shell. To warm the egg quickly, let it
stand in a bowl of tepid water until it no
longer feels cool to the touch.
If you are soft-boiling or coddling sev-
eral eggs at once, you can synchronize
t he moment at which they start cooking
by lowering them into the water in a wire
basket. Then, if you do not wish to cook
all of the eggs for t he same length of time,
remove them individually with a slotted
spoon as they become ready.
Soft-boiled or coddled eggs should be
opened as soon as possible, lest the inter-
nal heat continue to cook them. They
may be served just as they are in eggcups,
or scooped from their shells into cups or
bowls, to which butter and herbs may be
added according to taste.
l
Boiling the eggs. Let the eggs
warm to room temperature. Bring a
saucepan of water to a simmer.
Reduce the heat, if necessary, so that the
water barely bubbles. Place the
eggs in a wire basket and lower them into
the water. Time the cooking from the
moment the eggs enter the water.
2
3
Opening the eggs. When they
have cooked for the time required,
remove the eggs from the water with a
slotted spoon or in the basket. Set each
one in an eggcup. Holding the egg,
slice through the top by striking it with a
knife at the point where it widens
enough to admit a small spoon (above).
Or crack the top with a teaspoon,
then use the spoon to open the egg.
Serving the eggs. Lift the top off
the egg and cl ear away any pieces of
shell that may have fal len into it.
Season with salt and pepper. If you like,
add a dab of butter. The egg may now
be eaten with a small spoon or by
dippi ng strips of bread or toast into it.
23
WHOLE-EGG COOKERY
Firming Whites for Easy Peeling
Eggs that are boiled and then peeled may
serve as garnishes, as elements in assem-
bled dishes, or they may be eaten as they
are. Whether the eggs are cooked for four
minutes or 10 (box, below), the whites
must be firm enough to remain intact af-
ter the shells are pulled away. But the
whites must also stay tender, even if the
eggs are reheated (pages 40-45) .
The best eggs for peeling after boiling
are those about a week old- eggs that
have developed the large air pockets that
simplify the peeling process. To firm the
whites during boiling, the eggs are start-
ed in cold water, which is t hen brought
almost-but not quite-to a boil over
moderately high heat and kept just be-
low boiling temperature during cooking.
High heat will toughen the whites and
accelerate a chemical reaction between
the iron of the yolk and the sulfur com-
pounds of the white that results in green
discoloration on the yolks.
Because the water in which they are
immersed is cold, eggs can be used direct-
ly from the refrigerator without danger
of cracking dur ing boiling. However, the
cooking period during which t he water
heats should not be counted as part of t he
boiling time: Timing begins when the
water first starts to bubble. The heavi-
ness of your pan, the amount of water you
use and the number of eggs you cook will
influence the time required. The times
shown in the box at right are averages for
eggs classed as "large." For bigger eggs,
add a minute to each time; for smaller
ones, subtract a minute.
After boiling the eggs, plunge t hem
into cold water to arrest their cooking
and to cool them for easy handling. Peel-
ing, although not difficult, requires a
light touch- particularly for a mollet
egg (near right), a liquid-yolked, four-
minute version that is easily damaged. It
is best to peel eggs just before using
them. The shells protect the whites from
drying out and preserve flavor so effec-
tively that whole boiled eggs can be kept
in the refrigerator for up to a week.
24
1
Cooking the eggs. Arrange the eggs in one Ioyer in a
saucepan. Pour in enough cold water to cover the eggs by at
least 1 inch [2% em.], and place the uncovered pan over
medium-high heat (above, left). Time the eggs from the moment
that a few Iorge bubbles begin to rise from the bottom of the pan
(right). Reduce the heat to keep the water below the boiling point.
When the eggs hove cooked for the time required, remove them
from the pan individually with a perforated spoon and plunge them
into cold water to stop further cooking.
From Soft-boiled to Overboiled
' 1 lrJ

A four-minute egg. The white is only
portly set and the yolk is still liquid. This is the
mallet egg of French cooking. Because it stays
soft inside but still holds its form, it is used
whole in assembled dishes (pages 38-39) .
A six-minute egg. The white is firmly set,
as is most of the yolk, although the center is still
soft and dark yellow. This egg is easier to
handle and to shell than the mallet egg. It con
be used whole or halved in assemblies
calli ng for a hard-boiled egg; in fact, some
cooks prefer its moister consistency.
2
Cracking the eggs. Crack the shell of each egg by grasping
the egg in one hand and gently tapping it all over with the back of a
spoon or the handle of a knife (obove). Alternatively, hold the
egg under your palm and roll it back and forth on a smooth surface
3
Removing the shell. Gently strip the shell away from the
white of the egg, peeling clinging membrane at the same time.
Rinse off any remaining shell fragments by dipping the egg in
water. If the peeled eggs are not required immediately, store them
in a bowl of cold water to keep them from drying. They can be
safely kept in the water for two or three hours, if necessary.
until the shell becomes marbled with cracks.
An eight-minute egg. Both the yolk and
white are firmly set, although the center of the
yolk remains tender. This egg can be cut into
halves or quarters, sliced or chopped, but it
keeps enough natural moisture so that it can be
briefly reheated as part of an assembled dish.
A 10-minute egg. Yolk and white are
firmly set and the yolk is pale yellow. This is the
classic hard-boiled egg used for stuffing
(poge 40) and as a garnish in salads and other
cold dishes. Halved or quartered, sliced or
chopped, it can be reheated in sauce or turned
into a gratin (poges 42-43).
An overcooked egg. When cooked for
much more than 10 minutes or boiled over high
heat, the white of the egg turns rubbery and
the yolk becomes dry and crumbly. Chemical
reactions between the yolk and white may
produce a green layer around the outer surface
of the yolk and a strong, sulfurous smell.
25
WHOLE-EGG COOKERY
Poaching: Gentle Heat for the Unprotected Egg
Freshness is a prerequisite in eggs for
successful poaching. Immersed in hot liq-
uid, the whites of newly laid eggs cling
compactly to the yolks and poach neatly.
The whites of eggs more than a week old,
however, spread out and overcook.
No special equipment is needed for
poaching other than a heavy saute pan or
skillet with a lid. Most so-called poaching
pans, built with small cups to contain the
eggs, do not actually poach: The eggs are
cooked by steaming (pages 28-29) rather
than by immersion.
The poaching liquid should be at least
2 inches [5 em.] deep to immerse the
eggs, and it should be preheated so that
the eggs begin cooking as soon as they
are added. Since the temperature of the
liquid will drop when the eggs are broken
into it, choose the most capacious pan you
own to minimize heat loss-and never
poach more than four eggs at a time.
The usual liquid is water. However,
eggs can also be poached in milk, stock or
wine, some of which may then be thick-
ened with butter and flour and made into
a sauce for the eggs. Whatever the liquid,
it should be kept below a simmer while
the eggs cook; stronger heat would turn
the whites rubbery. An easy way to con-
trol temperature is to bring the liquid to
a boil, turn off the heat, add the eggs, and
cover the pan to keep the liquid warm.
Many cooks stir the liquid to create a
miniature whirlpool before breaking an
egg into the pan; the swirling water helps
to compact the egg. Other cooks lift t he
white over the yolk as soon as the egg
is immersed. Neither method should be
necessary for fresh eggs, but both are
useful to keep older eggs from spreading.
As soon as the eggs are done, diP. them
in cold water to prevent further cooking.
Since even the freshest egg has a thin
outer ring of white that may spread a lit-
tle, the cooked egg will inevitably have a
straggly outline: Trim off loose strands of
white for a neat shape.
The eggs can be served at once-ac-
companied, if you wish, by an herb-and-
butter sauce (demonstration, bottom; rec-
ipe, page 95). Otherwise, you can place
the trimmed eggs in cold water to keep
t hem moist; they can be refrigerated for
up to 24 hours. Just before use, reheat the
eggs by dipping them in hot water.
26
Ensuring a Compact Shape
l
Breaking the eggs. In a shallow
saute pan, bring 2 to 3 inches [5 to 8 em.]
of plain or lightly salted water to a
boil. Turn off the heat and add the eggs
at once. To minimize the spreading
of the whites, break the eggs directly into
the water: Open the shells carefully
at the water's surface, so that the eggs
sl ide into the water compactly.
An Herb and Butter Finish
l
Reheating the eggs. Melt some
butter in a shall ow skil let. When the butter
begins to foam, turn down the heat
and gently lower the poached eggs into
the pan. It is best to use your hands
to transfer the eggs to the pan: A spatula
might break the fragile yolks.
2
2
Poaching the eggs. Cover the
pan with a tight- fitting lid in order to
retain the heat. Allow the eggs to
cook undisturbed for about three
minutes, then lift off the lid. When the
whites are opaque and the yolks are
covered with a thin, translucent layer
of white, the eggs are ready.
Adding herbs. Sprinkle freshly
chopped herbs - in this case,
tarragon - over the eggs. Baste the
eggs with the hot butter several times to
warm their tops, then leave them for a
few moments to heat through.
3
Lifting out the eggs. Remove the
eggs from the pan with a perforated
spatula and immediately place them
in a shallow dish filled with cold water to
arrest their cooking. Repeat Steps 1
and 2 as often as needed. The dish
chosen for cooling the eggs should
hold all of them without crowding.
Serving the eggs. When the eggs
are hot, add a squeeze of lemon juice to
accentuate the flavor of the sauce
(above). Then lift the pan off the heat and
tilt it over a wormed serving plate to
pour out the sauce. Use a spoon to help
slide the eggs onto the plate (right).
Draining and trimming. Lift the eggs out of the water and
drain them on a dampened kitchen towel. Using a small knife, trim
- the eggs by cutting away the thin outer ring of white around the
edges. If you do not intend to use the trimmed eggs immediately,
transfer them to a second dish of cold water to keep them moist.
. .
:;s;*'
Tp \
. ,

27
WHOLE-EGG COOKERY
Steaming and Baking: A Reliance on Integral Garnishes
Though steaming cooks with moist heat
and baking with dry heat, both methods
envelop the foods in a constant, uniform
warmth. Both are appropriate for whole
eggs but, to keep their surfaces tender ,
the eggs must be swathed in protective
coatings: cream, stock or sauce.
In the top demonstration at right, eggs
are broken into small baking dishes, or
ramekins, covered with a shielding layer
of cream, and steamed in a water bath.
The water is kept at a bare simmer to
ensure gentle cooking, and t he pan is
kept covered to trap the steam and sur-
round the eggs with heat. The water bath
can be placed in the oven or, as here, kept
on top of the stove.
Preheat the cream before you pour it
into t he dishes: The warmth will start
cooking the eggs immediately, thus re-
ducing the time required. You could add
herbs or grated cheese to the ramekins,
or r eplace t he cream with butter, a spoon-
ful of meat stock or tomato sauce.
In the bottom demonstration, eggs are
baked, uncovered, on a bed of chopped
spinach mixed with cream. The flavoring
elements themselves provide protection
against t he oven's enveloping heat: The
eggs are placed in depressions in t he bed
of spinach and are partly submerged by
a sauce of heavy cream. Pureed peas,
mushrooms or tomatoes would also make
a suitable base for the eggs. In this dem-
onstration, several eggs are baked to-
gether in one large dish; you could just as
well bake the eggs on a vegetable base in
individual serving dishes.
28
A Bath of Butter and Cream
l
Preparing ramekins. Lightly
butter several romekins. Worm some
cream in a saucepan over medium
heat. When the cream is hot but not
boi ling, spoon a little into each
romekin. Break an egg into the cream
in each of the dishes (above).
A Creamy Bed of Spinach
l
Preparing a spinach base. Stem
spinach leaves and wash them wel l in
several changes of water to remove
grit. Parboil the leaves for two minutes,
then drain off the hot water. Run cold
water over the leaves to cool them,
squeeze out excess moisture, and
chop the leaves. Melt butter in a pan
and add the spinach (above).
2
2
Adding butter. Place a smal l piece of
butter on top of each yolk. Do not
season the eggs at this stage;
because salt on the yolks will mar their
smooth finish and pepper may
develop an acri d taste, the eggs should
be seasoned just before serving.
Adding cream. Tass the spi nach in
the butter over low heat, then pour cream
over the spinach. Stir the spinach and
cream together. Season to taste with salt,
pepper and a pinch of nutmeg.
Transfer the creamed spinach to a
buttered gratin dish.
3
3
Preparing the water bath. Place
the romekins on a wire rock in a Iorge,
shallow pan. Pour enough boiling
water into the pan to come two thirds of
the way up the sides of the romekins.
Set the pan over low heat; the water
should simmer gently. Cover the pan.
Adding the eggs. With the bock of a
spoon, form shallow, evenly
spaced pockets in the spinach. Break
on egg into each depression.
4
Steaming the eggs. The eggs will
toke about five minutes to cook. They ore
done when the whites hove set but the
yolks remain moist. Lift the romekins out
with a spatula and serve the eggs
immediately, still in the romekins.
4
Topping with cream. When all of
the eggs ore in place, spoon a
tablespoon [15 mi.] of heavy cream
over each of the tops. Set the dish in on
oven preheated to 350 F. [180o C.].
5
Serving. After about eight minutes,
check to see if the eggs hove cooked; if
the whites hove not set, bake the eggs
for a few minutes more. Serve the eggs
on worm plates os soon os they ore
cooked, presenting each egg on a bose
of spinach (above). Season to taste.
29

A selection of garnishes
Classic sauces
Little tarts and other shells
A guide to composition
Shaping and cooking croquettes
Working with aspic
A mollet egg in a jacket of shimmering
aspic is lifted from a serving dish. To
produce the aspic, a clear, gelatinous
meat stock was allowed to set in a mold
around the eggs and watercress
leaves. The jelly was then turned out and
garnished with more watercress.
. ,
Cif>resentattons
The Art of Assembly
The basic methods of egg cookery are few in number, but egg dishes by
the thousands are created by combining cooked eggs with garnishes,
t hen swathing them in sauces. Mollet eggs- those boiled for only four
minutes (page 24) -or poached eggs are most often the centers of such
assemblies; their moistness guarantees dishes of surpassing luxury. But
egg compositions may also be based on deep-fried eggs (page 22) or on
hard-boiled eggs whose yolks have been scooped out, moistened with
butter or sauce and returned to the whites (pages 40-41) . Among these
choices, poached or boiled eggs may be prepared a day in advance; deep-
fried eggs must be cooked just before a dish is arranged (pages 24 and 26) .
The list of possible garnishes and sauces (pages 32-35) is long indeed.
Cured meats or fish such as Canadian bacon or smoked salmon will add
body to an egg dish while providing an emphatic contrast to the eggs'
bland taste. Chopped or pureed vegetables can offer subtler flavor con-
trasts and, if arranged as a bed for the eggs, will help anchor them in
place; smooth and slippery poached or mollet eggs particularly need a
steady foundation. Sauces serve double duty too: Besides adding richness
and flavor, they prevent an egg from drying out if the dish is baked.
A solitary egg, garnished and sauced, becomes a beguiling individual
package if it rests on an edible platform or is encased in an edible con-
tainer. For instance, eggs Benedict is a marriage of poached eggs, ham or
Canadian bacon, and hollandaise sauce (recipe, page 166), presented on
an English muffin. More elaborate effects can be achieved by encasing an
egg composition in pastry or in hollowed-out vegetables such as arti-
choke bottoms or baked potatoes (page 36) .
Egg assemblies need not always follow the tradit ional pattern of egg,
garnish, sauce and case. For an equally attractive cold presentat ion,
mollet eggs and t heir garnish frequently are suspended in a glist ening
mold of aspic (opposite and pages 46-47) . And hard-boiled eggs lend
t hemselves to still other presentations. The firm yolks and whites may,
for instance, be chopped, combined with flour, milk and butter , and
formed into croquettes for frying (pages 44-45) . Or t he chopped eggs may
be coated with sauce and gratineed (pages 42-43) . Such dishes, although
perhaps less seductive in appearance t han single-egg presentations, are
no less a delight to a diner, and no less worthy of the cook' s attention.
31
WHOLE-EGG PRESENTATI ONS
Garnishes That Furnish Body and Flavor
Whether the garnish for an egg dish
serves as a bed or a covering, it should
be prepared so that it will complement,
not mask, the eggs' delicate texture and
taste. Meats, and fish such as smoked
salmon, should be sliced paper-thin or
slivered; tiny fish such as salt anchovies
may simply be split into fillets (opposite,
bottom right). Vegetables, the most com-
monly used garnishes, should be pureed
or sliced thin.
Slicing is the best treatment for par-
ticularly fibrous vegetables-for exam-
ple, green beans or asparagus (opposite,
center) . The vegetable is usually cut up
when it is raw; then the slices are briefly
parboiled to tenderize them and quickly
sauteed in butter to add fl avor.
Dried morels (opposite, bottom left), a
delicious type of wild mushroom sold at
specialty markets, also call for slicing-
not because offibrousness but to preserve
their fine texture. The morels are first
soaked in water to rehydrate them, then
they are halved and thoroughly washed.
The slices need no parboiling but should,
like other sliced vegetables, be quick-
ly heated in butter-or better still, in
cream-to bring out their earthy taste.
Vegetables can be reduced to a puree in
several ways, depending on t heir age and
tenderness. In the case of young and
tender leaves of spinach or sorrel ( oppo-
site, top), you need only strip away t he
A Butter-enriched Puree of Mushrooms
32
l
Pureeing mushrooms. Trim the
earthy bases and wipe the mushrooms
wi th a damp towel. Then force them
through the medium disk of a food mil l.
Peas Sieved Twice for Smoothness
l
Preparing peas. Cook fresh peas
in salted, boiling water for five minutes, or
until tender. Drain the peas and puree
them through a strainer or a food mill.
Sauteing mushrooms. Squeeze
a little lemon juice over the pureed
mushrooms to prevent darkening.
Melt butter in a pan and stir in the puree.
2
Removing skins. Press the peas
through a drum sieve by spoonfuls.
Scrape the flesh from the underside
into the bowl. Discard the skins.
stems, shred the leaves and stew them
in butter: The shreds will soften into a
puree. Other vegetables must be pureed
t hrough a sieve or in a food mill or a
food processor.
Mushrooms are tender enough to be
pureed raw (below, top), but almost all
other vegetables must be softened be-
forehand by parboiling. Vegetabl es with
skins, such as lima beans or peas, must
be cooked, pureed, then forced through a
fine-meshed sieve to remove any skins,
ensuring a smooth puree (below, bottom).
All vegetable purees benefi t from an
enrichment of cream or butter before
they are paired with eggs.
3
Finishing the puree. Stirri ng
continuously, cook the puree over fairly
high heat for three or four minutes, or
until most of the juices evaporate.
3
Binding the puree. Stir the puree
over high heat for two or three minutes.
Remove from the heat and beat in a
generous amount of butter or cream.
A Creamy Reduction of Sorrel
l
Shredding sorrel. Fold the leaves
lengthwise and strip off the stems. Roll
several leaves into a tight bundle.
Slice the bundle into shreds with a knife.
Tender Pieces of Asparagus
l
Peeling stalks. Trim off the woody
bose of each asparagus. Cutting toward
the tip, pare the tough skin from the
lower part of the stalk.
2
Stewing sorrel. Melt butter over
low heat in a heavy pot; do not use
aluminum or cost iron, which would
affect the sorrel's flavor. Stir in the sorrel.
2
Slicing stalks. With a sharp knife,
cut the stalks diagonally into thin sl ices.
Plunge the slices into salted, boiling
water for a few seconds to soften them.
A Del icate Fusion of Morels and Cream
l
"
Mea.
Preparing morels. Soak dried
morels in cold water for at least an hour.
Trim the stem ends, cut the morels in
half and wash them under running water.
2
Stewing. Cook the morels in butter
over low heat for three or four minutes.
Sti r in heavy cream. Simmer gently for
two or three minutes more.
3
Thickening with cream. Stirring
occasionally, simmer for 10 minutes until
a puree is formed. Stir in heavy cream,
then reduce as desired.
\
3
Finishing the cooking. Drain the
slices in a colander (above). Then saute
them in melted butter over high heat
for a few seconds until glossy.
A Salty Savor of Anchovy
Boning anchovies. Soak salt
anchovies in water to remove excess sal t.
With your fingers, pry the fillets away
from the backbone of each anchovy.
33
WHOLE-EGG PRESENTATIONS
AT rio of Basic Sauces
Eggs can be partnered by many diverse
sauces, from creamy emulsions that ac-
cent the eggs' own flavor to spicy blends
that provide a piquant contrast. Here,
three classic preparations-white sauce,
hollandaise and tomato sauce-repre-
sent the spectrum of possibilities. The
white sauce (right, top; recipe, page 165)
is based on a roux-a paste made by
cooking flour with butter -thinned with
milk. Hollandaise (right, bottom; recipe,
page 165) is an emulsion made by beat-
ing butter into warmed egg yolks. The
tomato sauce (far right; recipe, page 166)
is a flavored puree that is prepared by
cooking tomatoes until they t urn soft,
then sieving them.
All of these sauces benefit from gentle
cooking. In the case of the white sauce,
lengthy simmering removes the taste of
raw flour. You can use the white sauce as
is or enrich the completed mixture by
stirring into it as much as half its volume
of heavy cream. A white sauce may also
act as a base for flavorings, stirred in just
before serving. Add grated Parmesan or
shredded Cheddar or Gruyere, for exam-
ple, to make a cheese sauce.
Hollandaise cooks more quickly than
white sauce, but requires more care: Too
much heat will cause the emulsion to sep-
arate. Rather than risk problems by pre-
paring the sauce over direct heat, cook
the hollandaise in a pan set in a large pot
of simmering water. As an additional
precaution, mix a little water into the
egg yolks before heating them to help
keep them fluid.
Because tomatoes have a high water
content, they need no additional liquid to
form a sauce. After about 20 minutes of
simmering-in a pan made of material
other than aluminum, which would in-
teract with the tomatoes to produce an off
taste-their flesh will be soft enough for
sieving. The sauce should then be re-
turned to the heat and simmered, uncov-
ered, for up to 15 minutes to reduce it to
the consistency required. After only two
or three minutes it will be thick enough
to serve on its own. If reduced further, the
puree can be added to other sauces to pro-
vide extra flavor and color; for example,
2 or 3 tablespoons [30 or 45 ml.) will give
a white sauce a delicate tomato taste and
a rose-pink hue.
34
White Sauce: Simmering for a Smooth Flavor
l
Making the roux. Heat the butter
in o heavy saucepan set over low heat.
As soon as the butter melts, odd the
flour, distributing it evenly in the pan.
2
Whisking the roux. Using o whisk
oro wooden spoon, immediately stir the
flour into the butter to form a smooth
paste. Cook this raux gently for two or
three minutes, stirring it constantly,
until the mixture has o granular texture.
Hollandaise: An Emulsion of Egg Yolks and Butter
l
Preparing a water bath. Set o
trivet or wire rack in o Iorge pot. Half-fill
the pot with hot water. Bring the water
to a boil, then reduce the heat to keep it
just below the simmering point. Put
egg yolks into a pan small enough to fit
inside the pot; odd a tablespoonful
[ 15 mi.] of cold water to the yolks.
2
Whisking the yolks. Stand the
pan on the trivet; the water should reach
two thirds of the way up the sides of
the pan. With a whisk, beat the egg yolks
to combine them with the water.
Continue to whisk until the mixture
becomes smooth and creamy.
3
Adding milk. Pour all of the milk
into the roux at once, whisking the
mixture to blend it smoothly. Increase
the heat to medium. While the sauce is
coming to a boil, continue whisking to
prevent any lumps from forming.
3
Forming the sauce. Add a handful
of butter cubes to the pan, and whisk until
the butter is absorbed into the egg
mixture. Add the remaining cubes in
batches, a few at a time; whisk in each
batch before adding more butter.
4
4
Simmering the sauce. Turn the
heat very low so that the sauce cooks
at a bare simmer. Let it simmer
uncovered for 30 to 40 minutes, sti rring it
occasionally, until the sauce clings to
the whisk in a thick layer (above). Before
serving, season with salt, pepper and,
if you like, grated nutmeg.
Finishing the sauce. Continue
whisking until the sauce is thick and
creamy - about 10 minutes. Season
to taste with white pepper, cayenne
pepper and salt. Finish oH the sauce
by adding a few drops of lemon juice. If
the sauce is too thick to pour easily,
whisk in some lukewarm water to thin it.
A Fragrant Tomato Puree
l
Starting the sauce. Saute
chopped onion in olive oil until soft.
Add garlic, herbs, seasonings,
sugar and quartered tomatoes.
2
Sieving the sauce. Simmer for
20 to 30 minutes, until the tomatoes
soften to a pulp. Then use a pestle
to force the mixture through a sieve.
3
Reducing the sauce. Return
the sauce to medium heat. Simmer it,
stirring occasionally, unti l it
reaches the desired consistency.
35
WHOLE- EGG PRESENTATIONS
A Multiplicity of Edible Cases
Edible cases just the right size to hold an
egg, its garnish and its sauce can be
formed from bread, pastry or vegetables.
The shape, texture and taste of each type
of case play a large part in determining
the nature of the assembled dish.
Hearty egg assemblies, for instance,
might well begin with baked potatoes
whose tops have been sliced off. The flesh
can be scooped out, pureed and used to
line the cases (top) . To prepare the pota-
toes for baking, simply scrub their skins
and pierce them to allow steam to escape.
Medium-sized potatoes will take about
an hour to cook in a preheated 375 F.
[190 C.] oven. The scooped-out flesh of
the potato can be mashed with butter and
seasonings, as shown here, or mixed with
a pureed vegetable (pages 32-33). Use
the back of a spoon to pack the flesh back
into the potatoes.
For a lighter dish, vegetable cases can
be fashioned from hollowed-out tomato
halves or from boiled artichoke bottoms
(right, bottom). Raw artichokes call for
special measures to prevent discolora-
tion. Use a stainless-steel knife for trim-
ming and rub cut surfaces with lemon. As
soon as you have trimmed the artichokes,
put them into water mixed with lemon
juice until you are ready to cook them-
in an enameled, stainless-steel or tin-
lined pan. After cooking, the inedible
chokes-clusters of fine fibers in their
centers-can be removed easily. For fla-
vor and gloss, saute the bottoms with
the bases downward for two or three min-
utes, spooning melted butter into the hol-
low interiors; then turn them over to
warm the tops.
To provide a contrast in texture to soft,
cooked eggs, bread cases (opposite page,
top) are made from firm, homemade-type
bread that is slightly stale so that it can
be shaped easily. Painted with melted
butter , then baked, the bread crisps and
turns deep gold.
By lining small tart pans with short-
crust dough (recipe, page 167), you can
make shallow, individual pastry cases.
Stack the lined pans to prevent the dough
from bubbling (opposite page, bottom) ,
and bake them in a 425 F. [220 C.] oven.
Separate the pans and spread them out
for the last five minutes of cooking to
crisp the pastry.
36
Hollowing Baked Potatoes
l
Scooping out the flesh. Bake
potatoes in a hot oven unti l they are soft.
Slice the top off each potato; scoop
out the fl esh and put it in a sieve.
Turning Artichoke Bottoms
l
----...,
Removing outer leaves. Break
the stem off each artichoke. Snap off the
tough outer leaves. Rub the cut
surfaces with a lemon half.
3
Paring the bottom. Starting at the
stem, pare away the dark green exterior
of the ariichoke bottom. Put the bottom
into acidulated water to await cooking.
2
Lining the potato cases. With a
pestle, push the flesh through the sieve.
Add butter and seasonings to taste.
Li ne the cases with the puree.
2
Topping the artichoke. Grasp
the arti choke fi rmly. Using a stainless-
steel knife, cut off the leafy tops at the
4
point where the leaves are indented.
Removing the chokes. Boi l the
bottoms unti l tender - about 20
minutes- then drain them on a towel.
Scrape out the chokes (above) .
Sculpting Bread Rounds
l
Shaping the cases. Cut a round
from a l-inch [2Y2-cm.] slice of bread.
Cut a circle Y2 inch [1 em. ] inside the
edge, down to Y2 inch from the bose.
Shaping Pastry Shells
l
4
Combining butter and flour. Put
flour into a bowl with a little salt. Add cold
butter, cut into cubes. Use two knives
to cut the butter into the flour(above).
Rolling out the dough. Put the
chilled dough on a cold, fl oured surface.
Flatten the dough a little, then turn it to
flour the other side. Roll it out thin.
2
Hollowing the interior. Insert a knife
horizontally Y2 inch [ 1 em.] above the
bose of the bread round. Swivel the
blade to free the central disk of bread.
2
Adding water. When the butter
pieces ore thoroughly coated with flour,
pour in a little cold water and work it
into the dough with a fork (above).
5
Lining tins. Invert tort pons over the
dough. Cut around each pan, allowing a
l-inch [2 Y2 -em.] border. Line the
pons; trim the edges with your thumb.
3
Baking the cases. Lift out the
centers and point each case inside and
out with melted butter. Bake at 325 F.
[ 160 C.] for 25 minutes, unti l crisp.
3
Gathering the dough. Knead the
dough briefly until you con gather it into a
boll; then enclose it in plastic wrap
and refrigerate it for at least one hour.
6
Baking. Stock the pons on a baking
sheet; top with on empty pan. Bake for 15
minutes; unstock the pons (above)
and bake for five minutes more.
37
WHOLE-EGG PRESENTATIONS
Assemblies: Combinations without Limit
The choice of the garnishes, sauces and
cases (pages 32-37) that are combined
with cooked eggs naturally depends on
personal taste and on what is available.
But in selecting elements and in assem-
bling them, it is important to consider
how the eggs are cooked.
Poached, soft-boiled mollet and deep-
fried eggs can all be used in such assem-
blages. Of these choices, a deep-fried egg
blends particularly well with robust gar-
nishes and sauces because of its own
hearty flavor. The bread-case assembly
shown on the opposite page (far right, be-
low), for example, combines a deep-fried
egg with chopped spinach and salt ancho-
vies. The golden tint of a deep-fried egg
should not be masked by a sauce; instead,
surround the assembly with a border of
sauce-in this instance, a spicy toma-
to preparation.
Both the flavor and the appearance
of poached or mollet eggs are enhanced
by covering the eggs with mild-flavored
sauces or purees. Then, if you like, the
surface may be gratineed to give the
sauce or puree a brown top. For such a
finish, sprinkle buttered bread crumbs
over the assembly and bake it for a few
minutes in a 425 F. [220 C.] oven, or
run it under a broiler. The sauce will pre-
vent the eggs from overcooking while the
crumbs brown and crisp. Choose a white
sauce-perhaps adding cheese, cream,
or a spinach or tomato puree-for a gra-
tin; a delicate sauce such as hollandaise
would curdle in the high heat.
Alternatively, you can top the gratin
with cheese instead of bread crumbs; the
brief cooking process melts the cheese
and gives the sauce a pale golden surface.
The cheese should be a strongly flavored
variety that is hard enough to grate-
Parmesan or aged Cheddar, for example.
Whatever assembly you choose to pre-
pare, plan the cooking of the different
A pink-hued sauce. Make o
38
white sauce (poge 34-35) . Heat
creamed morels (poge 33) with
slivers of hom. Fill preboked pastry
cases (poge 37) with the morel
mixture; top wi th poached eggs. Stir
tomato puree into the sauce;
pour it over the cases.
elements so t hat all are warm when the
time comes to combine them. Make roux-
based sauces first , so that they can sim-
mer while you ready other ingredients.
An emulsion type of sauce such as hollan-
daise is best made immediately before
use but, if necessary, it will keep for up to
half an hour if you stand the saucepan in
hot water. Warm any precooked puree or
garnish over low heat, stirring it fre-
quently while it reheats to prevent it
from sticking. Heat prepared pastry and
vegetable cases in a slow oven.
Poached eggs should be trimmed after
cooking and stored in cold water to keep
them moist . Just before use, dip them
briefly in hot water to warm them, then
drain them on towels. Mollet eggs can be
treated the same way. However, deep-
fried eggs will not keep well and should
be cooked immediately before composing
any assemblage that includes them.
A hollandaise coating. Make
o hollandaise sauce (poge 34-35)
and prepare bread coses(poge 37) .
Worm slivers of prosciutto in butter
and pile them into the baked bread
cases. Top with poached eggs. Pour
the sauce over the cases and serve.
A prosciutto topping. Make
a mushroom puree and a tomato
sauce (pages 32 and 35). Fill
artichoke bottoms( page 36) with the
mushroom puree and set them on
a plate. Top the artichokes wi th
mallet eggs, cover with the
tomato sauce and garnish with
slivers of prosciutto.
An asparagus fill ing. Make
a cream-enriched white sauce
(pages 34-35) . Prepare on
asparagus garnish (page 33). Fill
pastry cases (page 37) with the
asparagus. Top with poached eggs.
Place on ovenproof dishes.

Cover with sauce, sprinkle with

grated Parmesan and gratine.
A cheese crust. Prepare a cream-
enriched white sauce (pages 34-35).
Using a processor or food mill,
puree wel l-squeezed parboiled
spinach; mix it with pureed potato to
fill potato cases(page 36) . Top
with poached eggs. Set in grati n
dishes. Cover with sauce, sprinkle
wi th cheese, and gratine.
An anchovy garnish. Make
a tomato sauce (page 35). Prepare
anchovy fillets(page 33) . Fill
bread cases (page 37) with spinach
that has been parboiled,
squeezed dry, chopped and stewed
in butter. Top with deep-fried
eggs. Garnish with anchovies and
surround wi th sauce.
39
WHOLE-EGG PRESENTATIONS
StuHing and Dressing Hard-boiled Eggs
Halved, hard-boiled eggs are prime can-
didates for assemblies if the yolks are
first removed, mashed to a paste, and
moistened with some creamy element
that counteracts their relative dryness.
Because the moistener binds the mashed
yolks, the paste can be mounded up when
it is stuffed into the whites, producing
the shape of whole eggs. Since mashing
and moistening add to the bulk of the
yolks, some halved whites will normally
be left over; chopped, they can be used to
garnish other dishes.
In the demonstration here, the egg
yolks are bound with butter and laced
with mustard, salt and pepper. Cream or
a vegetable puree could replace the but-
ter. Instead of mustard, the yolks might
be flavored with chopped fresh herbs or
a tapenade-pureed ripe olives blended
with anchovies, garlic, olive oil and ca-
pers (recipe, page 166).
The stuffed eggs can be assembled with
any one of the cases, purees and sauces
shown on pages 32-37. In this demonstra-
tion, each egg is placed on an artichoke
bottom that is first lined with a puree of
peas; the eggs are then coated with a ba-
sic white sauce (recipe, page 165) that
has been enriched with cream and lightly
colored with tomato puree.
By the time the eggs have been stuffed,
incorporated into the dish and covered
with sauce, they will need reheating.
You can place them in a 425 F. [220 C.]
oven to warm them through simply as
they are. Or the assemblies can be sprin-
kled with grated cheese, as here, and
baked for a golden brown gratin topping.
40
1
Preparing the stuffing. Hard-boil
eggs, then peel them (page 25). Cut
the eggs in half lengthwise. With the
point of a small knife, remove the yolk
halves from the whites (above). Put the
yolks in a bowl with softened butter, salt,
freshly ground pepper and a little
prepared mustard. Use a fork to mash
the ingredients together thoroughly.
2
Stuffing the eggs. Fill the hollows
in the neatest of the halved egg whites
wi th the stuffing mixture. Then place
more stuffing on top of each filled half.
With a spoon, mold the stuffing to give
the shape of a whole egg.
5
Topping the eggs with cheese. Grate some hard cheese
(page 11 ); Parmesan is used here, but aged Gruyere or Cheddar
could be substituted. Spri nkle the cheese over the eggs and
cases. Place the dish in a preheated 425F. [220C.] oven.
3
lining the cases. Spoon a layer of
warm pea puree(page 32) into artichoke
bottoms that have been boiled and
then sauteed in butter for extra flavor
(page 36). Use the back of a spoon to
spread the puree smooth.
4
Saucing the eggs. Pl ace the stuffed eggs on top of the beds
of pea puree. Place the fi lled artichoke bottoms in a buttered
ovenproof dish. Ladle a tomato-flavored white sauce over the
eggs to coat them and thei r cases completely (above) .
6
Serving the dish. Bake the
assembly for five to l 0 minutes, until the
eggs are heated through, the sauce is
bubbling hot and the cheese is melted. If
the cheese has not browned, place
the dish under a hot broi ler for a few
seconds. Transfer the egg assemblies
to plates and spoon sauce around them.
41
WHOLE-EGG PRESENTATIONS
Coating to Counteract Dryness
In addition to being stuffed and present-
ed in cases, hard-boiled eggs may simply
be halved or quartered and reheated with
a sauce. Besides contributing flavor, the
sauce will counterbalance the relative
dryness of the eggs.
Any thick, well-flavored sauce can be
used to coat the eggs, including one made
from a vegetable puree, such as tomato
sauce (page 166), or the creamed sor rel
sauce featured in the top demonstration.
Sorrel lends a refreshing hint of tartness
to the dish; for a milder effect, you could
substitute creamed spinach (recipe, page
166). To add another textural dimension,
a gr atin of crisp bread crumbs can top the
sauce. The crumbs will brown more even-
ly and have a finer fl avor if they are first
sauteed in butter (Step 2, top).
A t hickened, flavored white sauce also
has sufficient body to complement hard-
boiled eggs. In the bottom demonstration
(recipe, page 165), the sauce is prepared
from a base of onions that have been soft-
ened in butter, then mixed with flour to
form a sort of roux. Like any roux-based
sauce, the mixture needs lengthy sim-
mer ing to rid it of the taste of flour. Near
t he end of cooking, raw egg yolks and
fresh nerbs are stirred in for extra rich-
ness. The quartered eggs are added at the
last minute to warm t hem through.
There are many possible variations
on this simple sauce mixture. You can
add extra ingredients--chopped chard
leaves, green peppers or mushrooms, for
example-- to the onions midway through
cooking, or else enrich the finished sauce
with heavy cream. To further ext end the
range of flavors, you could replace the
milk in the sauce with a meat stock to
create a veloute.
42
A Creamed Sorrel Gratin
l
Coating the eggs. Prepare a
creamed sorrel puree (page 33) . While
the sorrel is stewing, peel hard-boiled
eggs. Cut them in half lengthwise and
place them in a buttered ovenproof
dish wi th their cut sides up. Spoon the
sorrel sauce over the eggs (above).
A Complementary Onion Sauce
l
Starting the onions. Melt butter in
a heavy pan set over low heat. Cut the
onions into thick slices and add them
to the butter (above). Stir until the onions
are well coated with butter. If you like,
season them with salt and pepper.
2
2
Preparing bread crumbs. Remove
the crusts from sliced bread; tear
up the bread and grind the pieces in a
blender or food processor to make
crumbs. Melt butter in a skillet set over
low heat. Stirring continuously, cook the
bread crumbs for five or six minutes, until
they turn a golden brown.
Making the roux. Cover the pan,
set it over a heat-diffusing pad and let the
onions cook at a gentl e simmer. After
eight to 1 0 minutes, when the onions
have softened and become a pale
golden color, sprinkl e flour over them.
Stir the onions until the flour and the
butter form a smooth paste.
3
3
Assembling the gratin. Remove
the bread crumbs from the heat. After
about one minute, when the crumbs
ore cool enough to handle, use your
fingers to sprinkle them liberally over
the sorrel -coated eggs (above).
Making the sauce. Pour milk into the
onion roux(obove). Turn up the heat and
stir continuously while the sauce comes
to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and
simmer the sauce for 25 to 30 minutes.
4
Serving the eggs. Place the dish in on oven preheated to
400o F. [200o C.]. Bake for about 15 minutes, until the sauce and
eggs ore heated through and the surface is lightly browned.
Remove the dish from the oven and serve the eggs on wormed
plates, incl uding some of the gratin topping in each portion.
4
. Adding the eggs. While the sauce is
simmering, hard-boil and peel eggs. Cut
the eggs into quarters. Stir in two or three
row egg yolks, beaten with a little cream,
to enrich the sauce; for extra piquancy,
spri nkle in some herbs- in this cose,
chopped parsley. Add the quartered
hard-boiled eggs to the sauce (above).
5
Serving. Leave the pan on low heat
for two or three minutes to worm the
eggs. Serve the eggs directly onto
individual wormed plates. Alternatively,
you could transfer the eggs to a
shall ow, buttered ovenproof dish, cover
them wi th crumbs(Steps 2 and 3,
above), and grotine the dish under a hot
broiler for two or three minutes.
43
WHOLE-EGG PRESENTATIONS
Soft-centered Packages with Crunchy Outer Crusts
Mixed with ingredients that bind and
moisten them, chopped hard-boiled eggs
can be shaped into patties, coated with a
layer of bread crumbs, and fri ed to pro-
duce croquettes that are crisp on the out-
side and appetizingly tender within (rec-
ipe, page 106) .
In this demonstration, the binder is
made with the same ingredients as a
white sauce, but the ratio of milk to roux
is lower. The resulting mixture has a
stiffer consistency than a white sauce,
and it is cooked only long enough to
thicken it to a paste. A raw egg yolk
stirred into the paste adds extra richness.
If you like, you can use stock instead of
milk or flavor the binder with herbs, fine-
ly chopped mushrooms or ham.
After the egg pieces have been added,
the mixt ure should be left to cool thor-
oughly: It will firm up and become easier
to shape. While the mixture is cooling,
you can prepare the bread crumbs; use
bread at least two or three days old,
which will crumble easily.
The croquettes can be cooked rapidly
in deep oil. But you may find it more con-
venient to cook t hem, as here, in fairly
shallow oil-just enough to half-cover
them. Either way, the oil should be heat-
ed to about 375 F. [190 C.]. Check the
temper ature with a rapid-response ther-
mometer or by dropping in a cube of
stale bread: The bread will become gold-
en brown in 60 seconds if the oil is hot
enough. In shallow oil the croquettes
must be turned over halfway through the
cooking; depending on their thickness,
they will take a total of five to 10 minutes
to crisp on both sides.
44
l
Preparing the eggs. Peel hard-
boiled eggs and cut each egg in half
lengthwise. Lay the halves flat sides
down and cut them into thick crosswise
slices (above), then chop these sl ices
into equal-sized pieces.
2
Preparing the sauce. Melt butter
and stir in flour to make a thick roux. Then
add milk and sti r the mixture for four to
five minutes, until it boils and thickens.
Remove the pan from the heat and
let the sauce cool sl ightly. Stir in a beaten
egg yolk (above). Season the sauce
to taste; if you like, add a little grated
nutmeg or cayenne pepper.
5
Frying the croquettes. Pour oi l - enough to reach about
halfway up the sides of the croquettes- into a skillet. Set the pan
over high heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, adjust the
heat to medium and lower the croquettes one by one into the oi l.
When the undersides have browned, after three to five minutes,
turn the croquettes and brown the other si des. Drain the croquettes
on paper towels; dry the tops with more towels.
3
Adding the eggs. Gently fold the
chopped egg pieces into the hot sauce.
Cool the mixture to room temperature -
this takes about 30 minutes. You can
place the mixture in the refrigerator to
speed the cooling process.
6
Serving the croquettes. Place
the cooked croquettes on a warmed
serving plate. Serve them plain or
accompany them with a tomato sauce
(page 35) - presented separately
rather than poured over the croquettes,
so as not to spoil their cri spness.
4
Shaping the egg croquettes. Use a serving spoon to scoop up the
cooled egg mixture, a heaped spoonful at a time. Set
each spoonful in bread crumbs; sprinkle more bread crumbs
over the top, then roll the croquette over until it is completely coated
(above, left). Pat each croquette with the palm of your hand to
flatten it slightly and to press the bread crumbs in place(right) . Let
the croquettes rest for a few minutes to set the coating.
45
WHOLE-EGG PRESENTATIONS
A Gleaming Aspic Ring
A transparent amber jelly sets off the
simple beauty of the egg's form, and the
combination is as pleasing to the pal-
ate as it is to the eye. The softness of
poached and mollet eggs, in particular, is
enhanced by the jelly, itself moist enough
to melt on the tongue.
Such a jelly, known as aspic, is essen-
tially a veal stock made with some gelat-
inous meats-calf's or pig's feet, for ex-
ample- so that the liquid will set firmly
when it is chilled (box, bottom; recipe,
pages 164-165) .
Crystal clarity is the distinguishing
feature of a good aspic. To achieve trans-
parency, the stock must be scrupulously
skimmed of impurities as it comes to a
simmer, t hen strained through damp-
ened muslin or cheesecloth at the end of
cooking. Finally, when the jelly cools, ev-
ery remaining trace of fat must be re-
moved with a spoon or damp cloth.
If the jelly lacks the perfect trans-
parency an aspic requires -perhaps be-
cause the stock accidentally reached a
boil-you can clarify it. Melt the jelly by
warming it over medium heat, then in-
crease the heat to high and add one raw
egg white and its crushed shell for each
quart [1 liter) of liquid. Bring this mix-
ture to a boil, then turn off the heat and
let the stock rest without stirr ing for 10
minutes while the egg whites and shells
bond with the impurities in the stock. Re-
peat the procedure twice, then strain the
stock and chill it again.
Eggs are often set in aspic in individ-
ual molds. For a different presentation,
you can set several eggs together in a
ring mold, as shown in this demonstra-
t ion. If you like, add garnishes to fl avor
and decorate the dish. Leaf garnishes-
tarragon, for instance, or the watercress
used here-should be dipped in hot wa-
ter to wilt them so that they will lie flat.
Other garnishes include slices of pitted
ripe olives or strips of ham, prosciutto or
roasted sweet peppers. Whatever your
choice, set the garnish in the bottom of
the mold between layers of aspic to keep
it in place before adding the eggs.
46
l
Setting the eggs. Melt jellied stock (box, below) over low
heat. Ladle a thin layer of the stock into a ring mold and refrigerate it
for aboutl O minutes, or until set. Dip sprigs of watercress in hot
water, cut off the stems and dry the leaves. Dip them into the melted
stock. Arrange the leaves around the mold, then refrigerate the
mold again. Add another thin Ioyer of stock, refrigerate, and when
the second Ioyer has set, position peeled mallet eggs between
the leoves(above) . Add just enough stock to immerse the eggs, ond
cover the mold with foil or plasti c wrap.
Making a Jellied Stock
l
Assembling the meats. Set a rock
in a pot to prevent sticking. Put bones
and meat - in this case, veal neck
and shank and pig's feet - on the rock.
Pour in cold water to cover the
ingredients by 2 inches [5 em. ].
2
Removing the scum. Set the pot
over low heat. As the water approaches
a boil, skim off the froth that ri ses to the
surface. Add cold water and skim again
as the water returns to a boil. Repeat
until no more scum rises. Do not stir.
2
Unmolding. Chill the mold for at least
four hours to fi rm the jelly. Place o
chilled servi ng plate face down over the
mold and invert both plate and mold.
Place o hot, damp cloth over the mold for
o few seconds to loosen the jelly.
Holding the mold tight against the plate,
shake, then lift the mold (above). The
dish is now ready for serving (right);
divide it by cutting between the eggs.
3
Flavoring. Add salt and aromatics;
carrots, onions (one stuck with cloves),
garlic, and o bouquet of leek, celery,
boy, parsley and thyme ore used here.
Partially cover the pot and barely
simmer the stock for about five hours.
4
Straining. Drape a double layer of
dampened muslin or cheesecloth inside
a large col ander set over a bowl.
Empty the stockpot into the colander and
let the liquid drain into the bowl. Do
not press down on the ingredients.
5
Setting the stock. Refri gerate the
stock for eight to 12 hours to set it. With a
spoon or o hot, damp cloth, carefully
remove the surface fat. The jelly should
be perfectly clear (above).
47
-----3--
Scrambling for different textures
Stirring in flavorings
How to roll an omelet
Variations on pancake omelets
Assembling a tiered loaf
Light results with beaten whites
A classic roll ed omelet, its center still
slightly liquid, sl ips from the pan onto
a warmed serving plate. The golden
product of nothing more than eggs
beaten with cubed butter and
seasonings, the omelet has cooked in
melted butter over high heat for
less than a minute - just long enough
to color its underside lightly.
Cookery
Guises of
Scrambled and Omelets
The simple action ofbeating an egg makes a crucial difference in the way
it cooks. Left whole, the white firms more rapidly than the yolk; blended,
the white and yolk set simultaneously. If stirred constantly-scram-
bled-the beaten egg remains semiliquid. Unstirred, the egg thickens
and coheres, a characteristic that is exploited to produce omelets.
Gentle cooking is essential for impeccable scrambled eggs: The lower
the heat and the longer the cooking time, the creamier the finished dish
will be. Standard additions are salt, pepper and butter, which is used to
coat the pan and to enrich the eggs. However, all sorts of new flavors and
textures can be created by including other ingredients. For instance,
sliced precooked asparagus (page 52) can be added midway through
scrambling to warm with the eggs, or the eggs can be stirred into semi-
liquid vegetable mixtures while these are cooking gently (pages 54-55).
Omelets are usually cooked over high heat to create firm outer cas-
ings with soft interiors. They, too, can be varied in a multitude of ways.
Rolled (opposite) or folded, they may be served as they are or else used to
enclose a filling-either wrapped inside or inserted into a slit cut in the
omelet's upper surface (pages 56-59). Left unrolled, a pair of omelets may
sandwich a filling (pages 60-61). Combining eggs with a generous quan-
tity of other ingredients (pages 62-63) produces pancake omelets, to be
served on their own or as a multilayered loaf (pages 65-67). For an
unusually fluffy omelet that will puff up in the pan, the whites and yolks
may be beaten separately before they are folded together (pages 68-69).
Eggs can be scrambled in any heavy-bottomed pan that will conduct
heat well, but for the most delicate versions ofthis dish the pan is set in a
water bath or over a heat-diffusing pad. An omelet, however, should be
prepared in a special heavy omelet or crepe pan with sloped sides that
will allow it to slip out easily. Omelet and crepe pans are traditionally
made of heavy carbon steel and, when new, require seasoning with fla-
vorless vegetable oil to ensure a slick surface. First wash and dry the
pan, then brush the inside surfaces generously with oil and pour in more
oil to a depth of
1
4 inch [6 mm.]. Set the pan over very low heat. When the
oil starts to smoke, pour it off and wipe the pan dry.
Once you season the pan, never wash it, or you will have to season it
again; simply wipe the pan after use with a dry cloth or a paper towel.
49
BEATEN-EGG COOKERY
An American Approach to Scrambling
Scrambled eggs is a favorite American
dish, and one that lends itself to a num-
ber of subtle variations. The cook is pre-
sented with choices at the very first step
of t he operation -beating t he eggs. You
can beat them only until t he yolks break,
so t hat the final dish will be str eaked
wit h white; or you can blend yolks and
whites to a uniform golden color , as in
this demonstration.
Seasonings such as salt, pepper and
herbs will permeate the dish best if incor-
por ated when the eggs are beaten. Some
cooks also add up t o a teaspoon [5 ml. ] of
water for each egg to make t he end prod-
uct lighter and more delicate in flavor.
Adding milk, cream or sour cream in-
stead yields richer eggs.
After beating, the eggs ar e cooked very
gent ly to keep t hem tender: High heat
would drive off moisture and toughen
eggs. Constantly stirring the eggs trans-
forms t hem into soft curds, leaving no
t race of hard lumps.
How long the scrambled eggs cook de-
pends on whether t he diners want them
fir m or creamily moist. In any case, t he
pan should be removed from the stove
while t he eggs are still slightly under-
done; t hey will continue cooking for a
minute or more. To arrest t heir cooking
at the precise degree of doneness desired
and to add a sheen to t he eggs, some cooks
will stir in bits of butter, a splash of
cream or a beaten raw egg.
The traditional garnishes for scram-
bled eggs r ange from bacon, ham and
scrapple to sausages such as t he plump
homemade-style links shown here. For
perfect links, pierce t he sausages before
start ing to cook them in cold water (box,
below) . By t he time the water evapo-
rat es, t he sausages will have released
enough fat for fryi ng.
Sausages Browned in Their Own Juices
l
50
Piercing the sausages. Cut the
sausages into individual links. In a quick,
jabbing moti on, pierce each link in
several places with a fork or skewer.
Place the sausages in a heavy skillet.
2
Starting in water. Add enough
cold water to cover the bottom of the
ski llet, and bring the water to a boil
over medium heat. Cook the sausages
until the water evaporates, rolling
them from time to time wi th a spatula in
order to cook them evenly.
1
Beating the eggs. Break eggs into
a bowl; in this example 10 eggs are used
to provide four servings. Mix the eggs
with a whisk or fork until the whites and
yolks ore blended but not foamy.
Season the eggs with salt and pepper.
3
Frying the sausages. Reduce the
heat to low. Fry the sausages in their
exuded fat for 15 to 20 mi nutes,
turning them occasionally to keep them
from sticking. When the sausages are
browned, lift them out of the skillet with
the spatula and drain them on paper
towels before serving.
2
Beginning the cooking. In a
heavy skillet over medium heat, melt 1 or
2 teaspoons [5 or 10 mi.] of butter for
each egg. When the butter foams, but
before it browns, pour in the eggs and
tip the skillet to spread them evenly.
Immediately turn the heat to low.
3
Stirring the eggs. With a wooden spoon, stir the eggs in
a continuous figure-8 motion, moving the spoon across the
bottom of the skillet and around its sides to scrape the cooked
portions of the eggs into the uncooked portions. Stir until the eggs
ore uniformly thick and no longer runny, yet still soft and moist.
4
Serving the eggs. Tip the
scrambled eggs onto a wormed plotter.
Dot the top wi th butter to make them
glossy. Surround the eggs with a ring of
link sausages and garnish them with
freshly chopped parsley.
51
BEATEN-EGG COOKERY
Gentle Cooking for a Custardy Result
Not all scrambl'ed eggs develop into soft
curds. In fact , t he most refined version of
the dish has an extraordinarily smoot h,
custard-like consistency, the result of
slow, gentle cooking and a generous in-
vestment of butter.
A heavy pan that will conduct heat
uniformly is essential to success. It is pos-
sible to achieve the desired creaminess
by setting the pan on a heat-diffusing pad
over low heat. But that method may need
20 minutes or more of almost constant
stirring, whereas the eggs can be scram-
bled in 15 minutes or less if the pan is
first placed on a wire rack set in a large
casserole of hot water, as demonstrated
here. The water surrounds t he eggs to
warm them evenly, t hereby minimizing
the risk of overcooking, yet speeding t he
thickening process.
Scrambled in this fashion, the eggs are
delicious on their own. However , you can
add extra flavors by sprinkling herbs-
marjoram or chervil, for example-into
the eggs before scrambling t hem. Or, for
the epitome of luxury, you can include
3
52
Adding a garnish. When the eggs
thicken lightly, you can add any hot,
precooked garni sh - in this
demonstrati on, sliced asparagus that
have been parboiled for a few
seconds, drai ned and then bri efly
sauteed in butter(page 33). Stir the
garnish into the scrambled eggs(above) .
truffle, available fresh during t he winter
months at some specialty food markets.
To obtain the full benefit of its pervasive
aroma, add slices or parings of the truf-
fle to t he unbeaten eggs about an hour
ahead of time and allow them to steep at
room temperature.
A more substantial garnish, such as
the asparagus slices shown here, should
be fully cooked and added while still hot
toward t he end of the cooking, just as t he
eggs begin to t hicken. Other suitable
vegetable garnishes are sauteed celery
slices, parboiled peas or green beans, or
sliced artichoke bottoms t hat have been
stewed in butter. Or you could add sau-
teed chicken livers, ham julienne, and ei-
t her fresh or smoked fish.
Whether t he eggs are served on t heir
own or with a garnish, it is vital to pre-
vent t hem from drying into lumps after
the right consistency is reached. Extra
butter or a little cream stirred into the
eggs as soon as they are removed from
t he heat will arrest the cooking while
providing further enrichment.
4
Checking consistency. Remove
the pan from the water. Continue to stir:
The heat from the pan and its contents
will keep the mixture cooki ng. Should the
eggs fail to reach the consistency you
requi re, replace the pan briefly in the hot
water to further thicken the mixture.
l
Preparing the eggs. Coat a
heavy saucepan generously with
softened butter. Break eggs into a
bowl; season with salt and pepper, and
add 1 tablespoon [15 mi.] of cubed
butter for every two eggs. Beat the eggs
with a fork to blend the yolks and
whites, and tip them into the pan(obove) .
5
Serving the eggs. When the
mixture has reached the desired creamy
consistency, add a handful of cold
butter cubes to arrest the cooking and to
provide extra richness. Stir until the
butter is thoroughly incorporated, then
seNe the scrambled eggs straight
from the pan onto warmed plates.
2
Scrambling the eggs. Place a wire rock inside a Iorge
casserole set on the stove. Stand the pan of eggs on the rock and
pour enough boiling woter into the casserole to come two thirds
of the way up the sides of the pan. Turn on the heat and adjust it to
keep the water just below the boiling point. With a wooden
spoon, stir the eggs as the butter melts (above, left) . Continue
stirring - scraping the bottom and sides of the pan, where the
mixture cooks first - as the eggs thi cken and turn opaque (right).
6
Garnishing with croutons. If
you like, garnish each serving of
scrambled eggs with a scatteri ng of
croutons (right), mode by souteeing
small cubes of slightly stole bread in
butter for two to three minutes until
golden (recipe, page 166) . Drain the
croutons on paper towels before serving.
,.
53
BEATEN-EGG COOKERY
Scrambling Eggs in Aromatic Blends
A Smooth Melange of Wine and Cheese
The technique of scrambling eggs (pages
50-53) can be adapted to a range of dishes
that share a smooth creaminess yet vary
widely in flavor. Combined with a liquid
and grated cheese, for instance, scram-
bled eggs yield a pungent, flowing mix-
ture reminiscent of a Swiss fondue (pages
86-87) . In the demonstration at right,
the liquid is white wine, reduced to con-
centrate its flavor (recipe, page 116) ;
you could substitute a well-reduced meat
stock (recipe,pages 164-165) or the roast-
ing juices of meat or poultry.
To make a more aromatic dish, you can
soften vegetables in butter or oil and
then add the eggs halfway through cook-
ing, as demonstrated below. Stirred con-
stantly as they thicken, the eggs will
bind the mixture and give it a luxurious
texture. Tomatoes and fresh basil are
used here to add a Provenc;al flavor ( rec-
ipe, page 117) . Other appealing bases are
diced eggplants (recipe, page 116) or a
Spanish mixture of tomatoes, zucchini,
onions and peppers (recipe, page 118) .
1
A Chunky Base ofT omatoes and Herbs
1
54
Preparing the tomatoes. Core
tomatoes, then dip them into boil ing
water for a few seconds to loosen
their skins. Cool, then peel them. Cut
each tomato in half horizontally, and
squeeze the halves gently to force out the
seeds and some of the juice. Chop the
halves into small chunks.
2
Reducing wine. Pour white wine
into a saucepan; add peeled, chopped
garlic. Set the pan over medium heat.
Bring the wine to a boil and let it bubble
until it is reduced to half of its original
volume. Strain the wine through a fine-
meshed sieve into a bowl to remove
the garlic. Let the wine cool.
Cooking the tomatoes. Heat
olive oil in a skill et. Add the chopped
tomatoes, lightl y crushed whole garlic
cloves, salt, a little sugar and a bouquet
of herbs. Cook the mixture over low
heat, stirring occasionally, until most of
the juices evaporate. Remove the
garlic and the bouquet (above).
2
3
Mixing the ingredients. Butter
the bottom and sides of an earthenware
casserole and break eggs into it. Add
more butter - cubed for rapid melting -
and the cooled wine, pepper and salt.
Beat the mixture lightly unti l the yolks and
whites blend. Then add the cheese -
here, shredded Gruyere.
Adding the eggs. Break eggs into
a bowl, and add butter cubes and salt
and pepper to taste. Beat the eggs
lightly to blend yolks and whites. Add the
mixture to the simmering tomatoes.
3
Cooking the mixture. To protect the casserole, place it on a
heat-diffusing pad set over low heat. With o whisk or fork, stir the
egg-and-cheese mixture slowly while the butter and cheese melt
(above, left). Then stir more briskly until the mixture thickens(right),
constantly using the whisk or fork to scrape the sides and bottom
of the casserole, where the eggs cook most rapidly.
4
Scrambl ing the eggs. With a
wooden spoon, stir the eggs to distribute
them evenly through the tomatoes.
Continue to stir constantly as the eggs
5
Flavoring with basil. When the
eggs begin to thicken, odd a handful of
fresh chopped basil leaves (above).
cook, carefully scraping the bottom
and sides of the pan to prevent bits of
egg from hardening there.
Stir the leaves into the mixture.
4
Serving. Take the casserole oH
the heat, but stir for another minute or so
while the casserole's heat cooks the
eggs further. When the fondue reaches
the consistency of thick cream, spoon
it onto wormed plates. Garnish wi th
croutons (recipe, page 166) or
serve accompanied by crusty bread.
6
Serving the dish. Remove the pan
from the heat. Continue to stir for a few
more seconds while the heat of the
pan continues to thicken the mixture.
When the eggs have reached the
desired consistency, serve them at once
on warmed plates (above).
55
BEATEN-EGG COOKERY
The Classic Omelet: A Masterpiece in a Moment
A classic omelet-rolled on itself or fold-
ed in half-is an object lesson in culinary
economy. It is quickly made and requires
no special equipment other than a heavy,
carefully seasoned pan. The only indis-
pensable ingredients are fresh eggs, but-
ter, salt and pepper.
The eggs should be beaten lightly,just
enough to combine yolks and whites well
without incorporating air bubbles that
might make the omelet dry out. Butter-
diced for fast, even melting-is beaten in
as an enrichment (more butter will be
used during cooking), and seasonings,
herbs, or any of a variety of other non-
bulky flavorings are added at the same
time. Fresh marjoram, parsley or a fines
herbes mixture-parsley, chervil, chives
and tarragon-bring a breath of fra-
grance to an omelet. If fresh herbs are
unavailable, dried marjoram or oregano
are good aromatic substitutes.
Other ingredients that can be added-
with discretion-include chopped ancho-
vy fillets, sauteed diced mushrooms or
finely shredded sorrel leaves.
More substantial garnishes (sliced let-
tuce leaves, sauteed and moistened with
a cream sauce, for example, or strips of
smoked salmon blended with sour cream)
can be prepared ahead and rolled or fold-
ed inside the omelet as soon as it is
cooked (box, right) . This is also the time
to incorporate grated or shredded cheese;
if added at the start of cooking, cheese
melts, causing the omelet to stick.
Whatever flavorings or fillings are se-
lected, cooking must be brisk. Heat the
pan thoroughly before adding the eggs.
The pan itself should be broad enough so
that the omelet forms a layer about 1,4
inch [6 mm.] deep and sets within 60 sec-
onds or so; the bottom will be firm, the top
still creamy. If the omelet is cooked slow-
ly, either because of insufficient heat or
too small a pan, it will lose its moistness.
For a two-egg omelet, a small omelet or
crepe pan-one that measures 6 or 7
inches [15 or 18 em.] across the top-is
suitable. A three- to five-egg omelet re-
quires an 8- to 9-inch [20- to 23-cm.] pan,
a six- to eight-egg omelet, a 10- to 12-inch
[25- to 30-cm.] pan.
56
l
Assembling ingredients. Break
eggs into a dish. Season with salt ond
freshly ground block pepper and add
diced cold butter, allowing about
1 tablespoon [1 5 mi. ] of butter for every
two or three eggs. If you like, add
fl avorings- in this instance, sal mon
moistened with sour cream (box, below) .
Folding In Flavor
Adding a filling. When the edges
ore firm but the top of the omelet is sti ll
moist (Step 7, right), quickl y spoon a
garnish- in thi s case, smoked salmon
moistened with sour cream - onto
one si de of the omelet to form a strip
parallel to the handle of the pan. With a
fork or spatula, lift the other side of
the omelet over the filled side. Slide the
omelet onto a wormed plate at once.
2
Beating the eggs. Warm a seasoned
pan for a few seconds over high heat.
Add butter-1 tablespoon [ 15 mi. ] is
enough to coat an 8-inch [20-cm. ] pan.
While the butter melts, beat the eggs and
diced butter lightly wi th a fork (above).
6
Rolling the omelet. Wi th the fork,
fold the near edge of the omelet into the
omelet's center. Ti lt the pan away
from you, then slide the tines of the fork
under the fol d and roll the omelet over
toward the far side of the pan.
3
Adding the eggs. Tilt the pan from
side to side to coat the bottom with the
melted butter. When the butter begins
to foam, but before it starts to brown,
pour in the beaten eggs(above).
7
Sealing the roll. Wi th the tines of
the fork, pull the far edge of the omelet
back from the side of the pan over the
roll ed section. Seal thi s flap by gently
pressi ng down on the top of the
omelet with the flat of the fork for a
second or two. Keep the tilted pan
over the heat for three or four seconds so
that the bottom of the omelet browns
slightly. Remove the pan from the heat.
4
Stirring the mixture. Pass the flat
of the fork through the eggs two or three
times to expose as much of the mixture
as possible to the heat of the pan. Never
stir with the tips of the fork tines; they
would scratch the seasoned surface of
the pan, making the omelet stick.
5
Lifting the omelet's edge. When the
underside of the omelet begins to set, use
the fork to lift the edge of the omelet
(above) . Tilt the pan at the same time, so
that any uncooked egg from the top will
run under the cooked egg and set.
Repeat the li fting and tilting process
around the pan to let as much liquid egg
as possible run underneath.
8
Serving. Tip the pan up against the edge of a warmed plate so
that the omelet rolls out browned side uppermost(inset). To give the
omelet a sheen, impale a piece of butter on a fork and draw it
across the surface. Serve immediately whi le the omelet is still hot
and moist, and soft inside (above) .
57
BEATEN-EGG COOKERY
A Packet for Enrichments
The usual way to fill an omelet is to fold it
around its garnish (page 56), but for a
more dramatic effect, you can slit open
the top of a large rolled omelet to form a
pouch for a filling. In turn, the filling
may serve as a foundation in which to
embed additional garnishes, and you can
transform the omelet into a full-scale as-
sembly by coating it with a sauce, sprin-
kling it with bread crumbs or grated
cheese, and putting it under a broiler for
a gratin finish (recipe, page 124).
To keep the omelet moist and succu-
lent, the garnishes and sauce, which may
be the same ones used for whole-egg as-
semblies (pages 32-35), must be prepared
ahead of time: If the prepared omelet has
to wait, it will dry out.
In this demonstration, a mushroom pu-
ree provides a bed for poached eggs (page
27), which are then masked with a white
sauce. You could substitute pureed peas
or morels stewed in butter for the mush-
rooms. Mollet eggs, sauteed chicken liv-
ers or stewed oysters might replace the
poached egg. And cheese or pureed toma-
toes could be added to the white sauce.
l
Opening the omelet. Prepare the garnishes - in this case,
mushroom puree and trimmed poached eggs -and make a white
sauce (poges 34-35). Keep the garnishes and the sauce
hot while you make a large rolled omelet (poges 56-57) -here a
seven-egg omelet, cooked in a 12-inch [30-cm.] pan. Tip the
omelet, with the folded side underneath, onto a wormed ovenproof
dish. Cut a fairly long slit along the top of the omelet (obove),
leaving about 1 Y2 inches [4 em.] of omelet intact at each end. Toke
core not to cut through the underside of the omelet.
/
4
Coating the omelet. Remove the white sauce from the heat,
then sti r into it enough heavy cream to increase its volume by half. If
you like, you also con odd grated Parmesan or aged Gruyere
cheese. Toste the sauce for seasoning. Spoon the sauce over the
5
Topping with grated cheese. Sprinkle grated cheese -
Parmesan is used in this demonstration - evenly over the sauce.
Position the omelet under a preheated broiler so that its top
surface is about 2 inches [5 em.] from the heat source. Broil it for two
to three minutes, or until the sauce is lightly browned. omelet to coot its top surface generously (obove).
58
2
Filling the omelet. With a knife blade, ease open the slit in
the omelet to make a shallow pouch. Spoon in enough of the
mushroom puree to fill the pouch completely; on omelet the size
of this one will take about 3 tablespoonfuls [45 mi.] of puree.
Smooth down the puree with the back of the spoon.
3
Adding poached eggs. Lift the poached eggs from the cold
water in which they hove been placed after cooking. Dip them into
hot water for a few seconds to worm them. Using your hands to
lessen the risk of breaking the fragile yolks, arrange the eggs, side
by side, in a neat row along the top of the puree.
6
Serving the omelet. Remove the dish
from the broiler (left), and divide the
omelet into individual portions, making
sure that each diner has a poached
egg. Spoon any sauce remaining in the
dish over the servings. The yolks of the
poached eggs should still be liquid when
the omelet is served (above).
59
BEATEN-EGG COOKERY
An Omelet Sandwich Finished in the Oven
Even without rolling or folding, omelets
may be used to enclose fillings. Kept flat,
a pair of omelets can be layered with a
creamy filling- held in check by strips of
fried bread or sausage links-to create a
hearty omelet sandwich such as the one
demonstrated here (recipe, page 126) . A
brief baking allows the omelets to absorb
the flavors of the filling while a gratin
coating forms on top of the sandwich.
Freshly cooked vegetables make ideal
fillings for such a sandwich; their clean
taste and moist texture complement the
eggs. Here, shredded sorrel, wilted al-
most to a puree, adds a pleasantly acid
note. Among the alternatives to the sor-
rel are sliced asparagus that has been
parboiled and lightly sauteed (page 33),
sliced artichoke bottoms stewed in but-
ter, or tomatoes, onions and peppers sim-
mered with oil to evaporate excess juices.
To give them body, vegetable fillings
must be bound with egg and thickened
with some sort of starchy ingredient. In
the demonstration shown here, egg yolks
and cream give the sorrel filling a sauce-
like smoothness; bread crumbs and grat-
ed cheese contribute bulk and flavor.
Juicier vegetables, such as the tomato,
onion and pepper mixture, could be com-
bined with cooked rice for body, and
bound with beaten egg.
For an entirely different effect, you
could use a seafood fill ing-for instance,
shrimp parboiled for three minutes until
pink, then peeled and bound with a white
sauce (pages 34-35) and bread crumbs.
In order to set off the filling, the om-
elets themselves should be flavored only
with a little butter, salt and pepper. They
need not be turned: Any liquid egg on the
lower omelet' s surface will blend into the
filling, while the top omelet, positioned
with its moist side uppermost, will brown
delicately as the sandwich is gratineed.
To ensure that the omelets stay creamy
enough to be reheated without drying,
both the filling and its bread or sausage
border should be prepared ahead of t ime.
60
l
Preparing the filling. Cook finely shredded sorrel leaves in
butter over low heat for five minutes until the sorrel has cooked
down to a puree-li ke consistency. In a small bowl, beat egg
yolks with heavy cream; reserve the whites. Stir the yol k-and-cream
mixture into the sorrel with a wooden spoon (above, left). Then
stir in equal amounts of bread crumbs and grated Pormesan(ri ght).
As soon as the mixture thickens, remove the pan from the heat.
4
Adding the filling. Spoon the sorrel mixture onto the omelet
(above). Use the back of the spoon to smooth the fi lling so that it is
level with the top of the bread strips. Make a second flat omelet
(Step 2). Slide it out of the pan, moist side up, onto the sorrel filling,
aligni ng the edges of the omelet with the border of bread strips.
2
Preparing the omelet base. Mix
the eggs with butter cubes and
seasonings. Prepare a classi c omelet
(pages 56-51), but do not roll or fold it.
Instead, slip it-still flat - onto a
wormed, ovenproof serving dish as soon
as the underside has cooked enough
for the omelet to slide easi ly in the pan.
5
Creating a gratin. Spoon melted
butter over the upper omelet. Sprinkle
with bread crumbs and grated
Parmesan. Place in a preheated 450 F.
[230 C.] oven for five minutes.
3
Making a border. Drain the fried bread strips on paper
towels, roll the strips in the reserved egg whites, and arrange them
around the edge of the omelet to form a border. To make the
strips, cut stole white bread into finger shapes about
3
.4 inch [2 em.]
wide and 3 inches [8 em.] long. Over low heat, melt butter with
oil in a skillet. Fry the bread strips for about 10 minutes, turni ng
frequently with a spatula, until they crisp on all sides. Remove the
skillet from the heat and cover it to keep the strips worm.
6
Serving the sandwich. Remove the omelet sandwich from the
oven; if the surface has not colored, set the dish under a hot
broiler for a few seconds to brown the top lightly. With a knife or a
coke server, cut between the bread strips to divide the omelet
into wedges (above). Place the wedges on plates and serve.
61
BEATEN-EGG COOKERY
Flat Omelets, Thick and Thin
The heartiest of omelets are pancake om-
elets-called crespeus in Provence, frit-
tatas in Italy and tortillas in Spain-
which contain more flavoring than they
do eggs. Indeed, in these omelets the fla-
voring often amounts to as much as a
cupful [1.4 liter] to each egg. The result is
too bulky to roll or fold, so pancake om-
elets are always served flat and cut into
slices or wedges at the table.
Depending on the volume of ingredi-
ents and the breadth of the pan in which
they cook, pancake omelets may be made
thin or thick, as in the two demonstra-
tions shown here. When the mixture is
spread to a depth of no more than half an
inch [1 em.], the omelet will be thin
enough to cook over high heat like a clas-
sic omelet (pages 56-57) . Because this
version cannot be rolled or folded onto
itself, however, the upper surface will re-
main moist. The simplest way to firm it is
to flip over the omelet by tossing it (Step
3, top). Or the top may be set by sliding
the pan under a hot broiler.
A thick pancake omelet starts over
high heat to set the underside, but-in
order to cook the eggs gently-the tem-
perature then must be reduced and the
pan covered (Step 2, bottom) . Too cum-
bersome to toss, such an omelet may be
reversed onto an inverted plate, then slid
back into the pan to set the top. Or, like a
thin pancake omelet, it can be finished
under a broiler-perhaps sprinkled with
cheese or crumbs for a gratin top.
The possibilities for flavoring pancake
omelets are virtually infinite. Vegeta-
bles of every" sort can serve-singly, in
combinations, or mixed with fish, shell-
fish or meats such as ham or sausage
(recipes, pages 128-132) .
Because even thick pancake omelets
cook quickly, the flavorings must be fully
prepared before being mixed with eggs.
So that they do not release liquid that
would make the omelets runny, moist
vegetables such as cucumbers or zucchini
need to be shredded, salted, squeezed and
sauteed (box, opposite) . Mushrooms, on-
ions or peppers should be sauteed, toma-
toes stewed to a puree (page 35) . Leafy
vegetables such as the spinach shown
at right must be parboiled, squeezed,
chopped and then tossed in butter.
62
l
l
Starting the omelet. Prepare
zucchini (box, opposite) . In a large bowl,
lightly beat eggs with cubes of butter
and a little pepper. Stir in the sauteed
zucchini; in thi s case, two eggs ore
combined wi th 1 pound [Y2 kg.] of
prepared zucchini. Over high heat,
warm butter or oil in a seasoned pan.
Pour in the egg-and-zucchini mixture.
Starting the omelet. Parboil
spinach; squeeze it dry, chop it and cook
it briefly in butter. Beat eggs wi th
butter cubes, salt and pepper. Stir in the
spinach; here, six eggs ore combined
with 2 pounds [ 1 kg.] of spinach. Over
high heat, warm butter or oil in a
seasoned pan. Then odd the egg-and-
spinach mixture (above).
2
2
Cooking the omelet. With a fork,
spread the mixture evenly in the pan.
Al low the pancake omelet to cook
undisturbed for about one minute, until
the underside becomes firm enough
so that the omelet slides easily in the pan.
Cooking the omelet. Smooth the
surface of the mixture with the flat of a
fork. Reduce the heat, and cover the
pan with a lid (above). Continue to cook
gently for about five minutes, or until
the top of the pancake omelet begins to
set. Take the pan off the heat.
3
3
Tossing. Lift the pan a little off the heat and tilt it so that the
omelet slides to the far edge of the pan. Then, with a rapid scooping
movement of your whole arm, lift the pan upward and toward
yourself in an arc, so that the omelet flips over. Cook the omelet for
a few seconds more to set the second side, then slide it out of the
pan. Serve the pancake omelet immediately.
Finishing the omelet. Sprinkle the
surface of the omelet evenly with grated
cheese - in this case, Parmesan.
Place the pan under a hot broiler. When
the surface of the omelet sets and the
cheese browns to a light crust- about
five minutes - slip the pancake
omelet out of its pan and onto a
warmed serving dish (above).
4
Serving the omelet. Cut the
pancake omelet into wedges. Use a
wide, flat spatula or a cake server to
transfer the wedges to warmed plates
and serve at once. Or let the unsliced
omelet cool for aboutl5 minutes to allow
the flavor of the spinach to develop,
and serve the omelet tepid.
Extracting Moisture
l
Shredding and salting. Wash
zucchini and trim off the lips and
stems. Use a rotary shredder( above)
or a box grater to shred the
zucchini into coarse strips. Place the
shreds in a bowl in layers about
an inch [2 Y2 em. ] thi ck; sprinkle each
layer lightly with salt.
2
Draining and cooking. After
about 30 minutes, squeeze the
zucchini well (above). Rinse
the shreds under cold water and
squeeze them until dry. Stirring
often, saute the zucchini in oil or
butter over medium heal for six or
seven minutes, until the shreds have
given up most of their moisture.
63
BEATEN-EGG COOKERY
Improvising Gratins
Layered with other ingredients and then
coated with a sauce, pancake omelets
provide a substantial base for a gratin
assembly. A topping of grated cheese or
bread crumbs-or both-completes the
preparation; the surface colors lightly
when the dish is finished in an oven.
Such omelet gratins invite improvisa-
tion. Although cheese will usually play
some part, the other elements can be as
varied as their availability and your own
imagination suggest. In the demonstra-
tion shown here, zucchini-flavored om-
elets are combined with grated Cheddar
cheese and strips of roasted and peeled
red and green sweet peppers; the dish is
coated with a tomato sauce (recipe, page
166) . You could substitute mushrooms,
asparagus, fennel or spinach for the zuc-
chini, and anchovy fillets or strips of ham
could replace the peppers.
For an even heartier dish, combine flat
plain omelets (pages 60-61) with pieces of
roast chicken or turkey or cooked white-
fl eshed fish, and coat them with a cream-
enriched white sauce (page 34-35).
l
Starting the assembly. Grate the cheese and prepare the
2
64
sauce and garnishes in advance. Cook zucchini pancake omelets
(pages 62-63). Butter an ovenproof dish, and sprinkle the
bottom with a little of the cheese. Add the omelets in a single layer,
overlapping them to fit neatly. Place a few pepper strips on top.
Completing the layers. When all of the omelets are
arranged in the dish, scatter over them any remaining pepper
strips. Sprinkle the omelets with a layer of grated Cheddar
cheese. Spoon the tomato sauce over them (above). Finally,
sprinkle on a little more grated cheese- mixed, if you like, with
an equal quantity of fresh bread crumbs.
3
Baking the gratin. Put the dish into an oven preheated to
375F. [ 190C.]. Al low about 15 minutes for the cheese to melt into
the sauce. If the top has not begun to color, place the dish briefly
under a hot broiler. Serve from the dish (above) .
Molding a Multilayered Loaf
One of the most unusual of all omelet
dishes is the loaf assemblage demon-
strated at right and on the following two
pages. It is composed of variously fla-
vored pancake omelets layered in a mold,
bound together with a custard-in this
case, eggs and cream mixed with pureed
sorrel-and baked in the oven (recipe,
page 132). During cooking, the egg in the
sorrel mixture sets and holds the omelets
together. After cooking, the loaf should
cool for about an hour; the heat within it
will continue to cook the mixture, firm-
ing it sufficiently for easy unmolding.
The omelet flavorings should be select-
ed for color as well as taste. In this
demonstration, five different flavorings
ranging from bright green spinach to jet-
black olives are each used in two pancake
omelets, making 10 in all. Stacked alter-
nately, the omelets make a repeated pat-
tern of five different bands.
The sorrel cream used to bind the loaf
combines an attractive, pale green color
with a refreshingly sharp taste. If sorrel
is not available, try mixing the eggs and
cream with pureed peas (page 32) or a
sprinkling of fines herbes-or simply
use a plain omelet mixture of beaten eggs
and seasonings.
The omelets should be cooked in a pan
whose bottom diameter roughly corre-
sponds to that of the mold in which the
loaf will be cooked. The mold itself should
have a flat bottom and straight sides. It
could be a large charlotte mold, a small
casserole or a heavy saucepan with an
ovenproof handle. To ensure gentle, even
heat, the mold is set in a large pan and
the loaf cooked in a water bath.
If you do not wish to serve the cooled
loaf immediately after unmolding, you
can cover it with plastic wrap to keep it
from drying out, and refrigerate it for
four or more hours.
1
2
'":.. " . ~
' . .
. . . .. ;
:_ .. . _.. .... _-
~ ..... L -- . ~ ....
Assembling the ingredients. First, prepare the five
flavorings: counterclockwise from top left, a stew of tomatoes,
garlic, onions, and peppers; black olives, pitted and chopped;
sliced mushrooms, sauteed in butter; sauteed, shredded zucchini
(box, page 63); and parboiled spinach, chopped and sauteed in
butter. In a large bowl, lightly beat eggs (above); add pepper.
Cooking the omelets. Spoon half of one flavoring into a
soup plate. Stir in a smolllodleful of the beaten eggs; salt to taste.
Cook the omelet, turning it when the underside is firm (page 63) .
Make a second omelet with the remaining half of the flavoring.
Repeat for the four other flavorings, to make a total of 10
omelets. Stock differently flavored omelets separately.
65
BEATEN-EGG COOKERY
3
Preparing the sorrel cream. Whisk in more eggs to
supplement any beaten egg that may remain after the omelets are
assembled. Pour in heavy cream. Wilt shredded sorrel in butter
(page 33). For extra smoothness, puree it into the egg mixture
through a sieve with a nonreactive plastic or stainless-steel
mesh. Season, then whisk the puree into the eggs and cream.
7
Loosening the loaf. Peel away and discard the uppermost
ci rcle of parchment paper covering the top. Let the loaf cool in its
mold for about one hour, until it is just tepid. Run the blade of a
knife around the inside edge of the mold to loosen the loaf.
66
4
Filling the mold. Generously butter a round mold of
approximately the same diameter as the omelets - in this case, a
deep casserole. Line the bottom of the mold with buttered
parchment or wax paper. Ladle some sorrel cream into the mold.
8
Add the omelets, alternating the colors. Press each omelet down
and pour a ladleful of sorrel cream over it before addi ng the next.
Unmolding the loaf. Invert a round serving plate over the
mold. Grip the mold and plate fi rmly and turn them over together.
You should hear the omelet loaf slip onto the plate with an
audible slap. Set the plate on a work surface and carefully lift the
mold away from the loaf. Peel off the second circle of paper.
5
Preparing the water bath. Cover the stacked omelets wi th
more sorrel cream, so that the top omelet is almost submerged. For
the water bath, place the mold on a wi re rock in a large pan.
Cover the top of the mold with a second ci rcle of buttered
parchment paper. Then carefully pour boiling water into the pan
to immerse the bottom two thirds of the mold.
9
Serving. Garnish the unmolded loaf
with simple decorations. In this instance,
a ribbon of chopped fresh parsley
enci rcles the ri m, and chopped black
olives garnish the center. The loaf may
be eaten either tepid or cold. For serving,
cut it into wedges or crosswise slices.
6
Cooking the loaf. Place the water bath in an oven preheated
to 375 F. [ 190 C.]. Bake the loaf for about 45 minutes, until the
sorrel cream binder has set and the loaf springs back instantly
when you prod the top gently with your finger. Remove the water
bath from the oven, and lift out the mold.
67
BEATEN-EGG COOKERY
Separating Yolks and Whites for a SouHie EHect
By separating the yolks and whites of
eggs and beating them independently,
you can create an omelet mixture that
will rise on cooking and assume some-
thing of the light, puffy texture of a souf-
fle (pages 80-81). Simply seasoned with
salt and pepper or flavored with a savory
sprinkling of cheese or fresh or dried
herbs (recipe, page 120), such a mixture
is cooked like a plain omelet in butter on
top of the stove.
Souffie omelets, as these creations are
called, owe their lightness to the air that
is incorporated into the whites during
beating. Eggs separate best right out of
the refrigerator, but whites expand to
maximum volume if they are first al-
lowed to reach room temperature. You
may use a rotary or electric beater, but
working with a large wire whisk will
speed the process by exposing as much of
the egg white to the air as possible. Al-
though a glass, ceramic or stainless-steel
bowl will serve, a bowl made of unlined
copper will react with the whites to cre-
ate stronger air bubbles.
To ensure that trapped air is not lost,
the whites should be blended with the
yolks immediately after beating. Com-
bine them gently by hand or with a rub-
ber spatula and cook the mixture at once,
before the bubbles break down and the
liquid that is held in suspension settles to
the bottom of the bowl.
As with any omelet, the souffie kind
must be cooked quickly in a buttered pan
hot enough to set the underside before
the top dries. Because of its bulky fluffi-
ness, the mixture will require a larger
pan than used for plain omelets; the
t hree-egg omelet shown calls for a 9- to
10-inch [23- to 25-cm.] seasoned pan.
During cooking, the mixture will swell
slightly as the heat of the pan forces the
trapped air to expand. Souffie omelets
are consequently too puffy to fold more
than once. Use a narrow, flexible spatula
to fold the omelet, or tilt the pan so that
the omelet slides forward, then jerk it re-
peatedly until the farther edge of the om-
elet flips back upon itself (Step 6). The
cooked omelet should not be heavily gar-
nished; serve it either on its own or sur-
rounded by a simple sauce (pages 34-35).
68
l
Separating the eggs. Crack each
egg against the edge of a small bowl.
Pull away half of the shell, leaving the
yolk in the other half, and let the whi te
drip into the bowl (above). Pass the
yolk gently from one half-shell to the
other until all the white has dripped
out. Transfer the white to a large bowl
and place the yolk in a shallow dish.
2
Blending the yolks. Season the
yolks with salt and pepper. For extra
richness, add heavy cream or, as
here, bits of cold butter, al lowing
1 tablespoon [ 15 mi.] for every three
egg yolks. Wi th the flat of a fork, beat the
yolks until lightly blended (above). Do
not worry if some pieces of butter remain
whole; they will melt during cooking.
6
Folding the omelet. Shake the pan gently from time to time.
When the underside has set and slides easi ly - after about two or
three minutes- the omelet is ready for folding. Tilt the pan away
from you. With a rhythmical movement of the forearm, jerk the pan
forward and upward to fold back the lip of the omelet (above,
left). Repeat until the omelet is folded in two (above, right) .
3
Beating the whites. With a wire
whisk, beat the whites slowly in a
continuous figure-8 motion. Lift the
whisk as you beat, to incorporate air.
When the whites begin to change to
an opaque froth, beat them rapidly with
a circular motion until they are stiff
enough to cling to the whi.;k (above).
4
Folding in the egg yolks. Using a
spatula or your hand, scrape the yolks
info the beaten whites(above). Gently lift
the white foam from the bottom of the
bowl over the top of the yolks while
turning the bowl with your other hand.
Fold with an up-and-over motion until
yolks and whites are mixed.
5
Filling the pan. Melt some butter in
a seasoned pan aver medium heat.
When the butter is foaming, tip the
omelet mixture into the pan. Using a
spatula, scrape al l of the mixture from
the bowl, spread it out evenly and
smooth its top surface.
7
Serving. Slide the folded omelet
onto a warmed plate and serve it
immediately. In contrast to the firm
and lightly colored surface, the center of
the omelet should be soft and creamy,
laced with small bubbles of air (left).
69
I
-----------4----
Enhancing custards
A traditional flavoring for souffles
Filling pastry cases
Creating fondues
Uniting the elements of a casserole
Forming centerpieces for parcels
A wedge cut from a piping hot cheese
casserole reveals layers of mozzarella,
bread and tomato sauce. The
casserole was baked until the cheese
melted, providing a mi ld background
for the herb-scented sauce.
Cheese Cookery
c.A Range of Roles
Although it does not require cooking to make it palatable, cheese has
long had an honored and varied role in cookery.lt is a primary flavoring,
for instance, in savory custard mixtures, in many of those pastry-encased
custards known as quiches, and in countless souffles and souffle-like
preparations. In addition, cheese is itself the central ingredient in a
number of dishes. These include a fondue of melted cheese and wine, and
its rustic cousin, Welsh rabbit, as well as softened or melted cheeses
presented in various guises-over a base ofbread, in a pastry shell, or in
wrappers such as pancakes or vine leaves. Cubes of cheese may even be
given a protective coating of batter and deep fried.
Cheese for any of these dishes is cooked only to alter its texture or to
unite it with other elements. Lengthy cooking or extreme temperatures
are thus unnecessary and may in fact cause the cheese's two main compo-
nents, fat and protein, to separate into an oily slick on a rubbery mass.
The texture of the cheese determines how it is prepared and the range
of dishes for which it is suitable. For cooking purposes, the three main
cheese groups are those hard enough to grate or shred, those soft enough
to be beaten, and the in-between cheeses that are sliced or cubed.
The hard cheeses flavor souffles (pages 76-81), sauces and many cus-
tards. For thorough blending, a very hard cheese such as Parmesan
should be grated fine (page 13). Less hard cheese such as Gruyere must
be coarsely grated or shredded into thin strips, because the cheese would
quickly clog a grater's smallest holes.
Very soft cheeses, when beaten, combine smoothly with sauces, eggs,
cream or softened butter. They add bulk and mild flavor to a savory
custard (pages 72-73) or pie, and can be the primary ingredient in fillings
for pancakes such as blintzes. Among this group are ricotta and simple
farmer cheeses (pages 10-11).
Denser cheeses, such as Brie, must be cut up and gently heated to
melt them for thorough blending. (The same technique is sometimes
used with firm cheeses: For the fondue on pages 82-83, for example, cubes
of Gruyere are gently liquefied in wine.) But for dishes such as the
casserole at left, where the aim is not to disperse the cheese evenly
throughout the dish, the middle range of cheeses can simply be sliced
thin and layered to melt in with the other ingredients as the dish cooks.
71
CHEESE COOKERY
Baked Molded Custards
Savory egg custards are much enhanced
by flavoring them with cheese-whether
grated hard cheese such as Parmesan,
which flecks the custard with color and
flavor or, as here, fresh farmer cheese,
which yields a creamy, homogeneous re-
sult. A homemade farmer cheese (pages
10-11) is an excellent choice for a fresh-
cheese custard. Also suitable are ricotta
or well-drained cottage cheeses enriched
with butter or cream. For custard as
smooth as satin, the cheese first must be
beaten until all lumps disappear.
The mild taste of fresh-cheese custards
makes them excellent bases for other fla-
vors (recipes, pages 134-138). Sauteed
diced salt pork, added to the cheese cus-
tard shown at right, lends an assertive
tang; as an alternative, you could use
strips of cooked bacon, ham or chicken,
or chopped, cooked shrimp. The custard
mixture shown in the box on the opposite
page includes finely chopped and well-
squeezed parboiled lettuce, which con-
tributes a subtly sweet flavor. Zucchini
that has been grated, salted, drained and
dried (page 63) or finely chopped mush-
rooms sauteed in butter are other good
vegetable flavorings.
Cheese custards of this type can be
cooked either in large, plain molds such
as the charlotte mold used in the demon-
stration at right, or in ramekins only
large enough for single servings-the
choice for the lettuce-flavored custard on
the opposite page. Both types of mold
should be two thirds immersed in a water
bath during baking to keep the custard
from overheating and curdling.
A custard in a large mold will take
from 40 minutes to an hour to set; be-
cause of the lengthy cooking, such a mold
should be set on a wire rack in the water
bath to keep it away from direct contact
with the heat. Small ramekins require
only about 15 minutes to cook and do not
need the protection of a rack. After cook-
ing, the custards must be cooled until
they are firm enough to unmold.
For an extra dimension of flavor and
texture, the cooked custard may be coat-
ed with warmed cream or served with
a savory sauce. For the large custard
shown, tomato sauce is used with cream.
A white sauce flavored with cheese is an-
other possibility.
72
1
Preparing flavorings. Cut the
rind from a piece of sal t pork, then chop
the pork into even-sized pieces. Fry
the pieces until lightly browned, then
drain them on paper towels. Butter a
deep charlotte mold; line the bottom of
the mold with a circle of buttered
wax or parchment paper. Scatter the
pork over the bottom of the mold.
5
Cooking the custard. Bake the
custard in a preheated 325F. [160C.]
oven for at least 40 minutes, or until
the top turns a golden brown and a
skewer inserted in the center comes
out clean. Remove the water bath from
the oven and lift out the mold.
2
Mixing cheese and eggs. Beat
fresh cheese - in this case, farmer
cheese -with seasonings such as
salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Beat in
softened butter. In a separate bowl,
beat eggs until they are well blended,
then pour them into the cheese
mixture and beat the mixture to combine
the ingredients thoroughly.
6
Unmolding the custard. Let the
custard cool and settl e for 10 to 15
minutes. To loosen the custard, run a
knife around the inside of the mold. Hold
an inverted serving dish over the
mold, then reverse the dish and mold
together. Lift away the mold and peel
the circl e of paper off the custard.
3
Filling the mold. Little by little, stir
hot milk into the custard until the mixture
has the consistency of light cream.
Ladle the mixture into the mold, leaving at
least 1 inch [2 Y2 em.] at the top: The
custard will rise slightly as it cooks.
7
Serving the custard. In separate
saucepans over gentle heat, warm
tomato sauce (page 35) and heavy
cream. Spoon the tomato sauce into the
serving dish around the sides of the
custard; pour the cream over the top.
Serve the custard in wedges.
4
Preparing the water bath. Set
the filled mold on a wire rock inside a
Iorge ovenproof pot. Pour enough
boiling water down the side of the pan
to immerse two thirds of the mold.
Filling the ramekins. Butter and
line the ramekins and place them in a
shallow baking dish. Fill the romekins
almost to their rims with a custard- in
this case, a cheese custard with
lettuce. Pour in boiling water to two thirds
of the romekins' depth. Bake in a 325 F.
[160 C.] oven for 15 minutes, until firm.
Cool, unmold (Step 6) and serve.
73
CHEESE COOKERY
Quiche: Custard in a Case
Baked in a pastry shell, a cheese-flavored
custard becomes a quiche au fro mage-
an open-faced cheese tart whose filling
and shape can be extensively varied.
The filling, for instance, may be one of
the fresh-cheese custards demonstrated
on pages 72-73, or it could be an egg cus-
tard flavored with a shredded or grated
firm cheese such as Emmentaler, Ched-
dar or the combination of Gruyere and
Parmesan used here (recipe, page 146) .
Frequently the cheese custard includes
additional flavorings: vegetables rang-
ing from chopped, sauteed onion to sliced,
parboiled asparagus, meats such as the
sauteed bacon pieces in this demonstra-
tion, or fish or shellfish-smoked salm-
on, for instance, or fresh crab (recipes,
pages 145-149) .
The shell, usually made from a simple
short-crust pastry (demonstration, page
37; recipe, page 167), can be shaped by
any of several methods. You can bake the
quiche in a standard piepan or, for indi-
vidual servings, in tartlet shells that are
unmolded after baking. For a particular-
ly handsome presentation, the custard is
encased in a large free-standing shell
made by molding the pastry in a false-
bottomed tart pan such as the one em-
ployed in this demonstration.
Any pastry shell for a quiche should be
partially baked for 10 minutes before it
is filled with the custard mixture and
cooked; partial baking sets t he shell and
prevents the liquid custard from making
it soggy. When prebaking, line the empty
shell with wax or parchment paper or
aluminum foil and fill it with raw rice,
dried beans or, as here, dried chick-peas.
The weight of this filling keeps the bot-
tom of the shell flat and the sides from
collapsing before the pastry has set. The
lining and weight can be removed togeth-
er when the prebaking is completed.
As extra insurance against sogginess,
crisp the interior by returning the empty
shell to the oven for five minutes. Then,
to underscore a cheese-flavored custard,
you can paint the interior with beaten
egg, sprinkle it with grated cheese, and
bake it briefly.
74
1
5
Reinforcing the shell. Roll out
chilled short-crust pastry. Roll the pastry
onto the pin and unroll it over a false-
bottomed tart pan. Press the pastry into
the pan and trim the edges, leaving a
border about 1 inch [2 Y2 em.] wide. Fold
thi s border into the pan - it should
touch but not overlap the bottom of the
shell-and press it against the sides
(above) to form a double tart-shell wall.
Mixing the custard. Beat the eggs
until they are foamy, then stir in heavy
cream, salt and pepper. Add the
cheese- in this instance, a half-and- half
mixture of grated Parmesan and
shredded Gruyere - and mix well.
2
Trimming the pastry. Rotate a
rolling pin over one section of the tart-
pan rim: The pan's scalloped edges
wi ll cut off excess pastry. Turn the pan
and repeat this process until al l of the
excess pastry has been trimmed. With
your fingers, again gently press the
wal ls of the pastry shell against the sides
of the tart pan. Refrigerate the shell for
30 minutes to firm the pastry.
6
Filling and baking the tart. Fry
bacon pieces until they are crisp and
drain them on paper towels. Sprinkle
the pieces over the bottom of the tart
shell. Return the tart pan to the baking
sheet and ladle the egg-and-cheese
mixture over the bacon, fill ing the shell
to within about Y4 inch [6 mm.] of the rim.
Bake in a 375o F. [l90o C. ] oven for 25
minutes, or until the top of the quiche is
puffed and lightly browned.
3
Partially baking the shell. Line
the pastry shell with parchment paper
and fill it with dried chick-peas
(above) . Set the pan on a baking sheet
and bake in a preheated 400o F.
[200 C.] oven for about 10 minutes, until
the pastry shrinks slightly. Remove the
paper and chick-peas, prick the bottom
to let steam escape from the pastry,
and bake for five more minutes.
7
Serving. To unmold the qui che, set
the tart pan on top of a coffee can or, as
shown, a crock. The rim will slip free of
the quiche; guide it down gently with
your hand(above). Transfer the quiche -
still resting on the bottom of the tart
pan - to a serving platter. Cut it into
wedges and serve at o nce(right), or let it
cool for about 20 minutes, cut it and serve
it tepid. The quiche loses its puff as it
cools, but the flavor is unaffected.
4
Sealing the shell. Q uickly paint
the bottom of the shell with a little beaten
egg. Sprinkle shredded cheese -
Emmentaler, in this case- over the egg
wash and return the pan to the oven
for about three minutes to set the sealer.
Slide the pan off the baking sheet and
onto a rack to cool for 30 minutes.
75
CHEESE COOKERY
An Airy Medium for Cheese
A gold-crusted, feather-light souffie is
one of the most appealing culinary vehi-
cles for cheese. Like many souffies, this
version begins as a white sauce enriched
with egg yolks; cheese added to the sauce
diffuses its fl avor through the mixture.
Beaten egg whites, added last, give the
souffie its lightness: In the oven, the
whites expand and the souffie puffs up.
The best souffie cheeses are well fl a-
vored, with a low moisture content and
firm texture: Gruyere, Jarlsberg, Em-
mentaler, Edam, Gouda and Cheddar are
all excellent choices (recipes, pages 139-
142). They may be used alone or with a
sharp cheese such as Parmesan or sap-
sago. To keep the strong-flavored cheese
from dominating, it should be used dis-
creetly; in this demonstration, Gruyere
is accented with a sprinkle of Parmesan.
The ratio of sauce and cheese to eggs is
critical. As a general rule, 1
1
4 cups [300
ml.] of white sauce and 11;4 cups of grated
or shredded cheese call for four eggs. Ad-
ditional egg whites are often added-in
the proportion of one extra white to every
four eggs- t o give a lighter result. Vary-
ing the proportions more drastically than
this could produce a mixture that is ei-
ther too heavy to rise properly or too light
to hold its shape.
The egg whites will rise to t heir great-
est volume if they are brought t o room
temperature and are then beaten wit h a
wire whisk in a copper bowl. To keep t he
beaten egg whites from defl ating, they
should be immediately and gently com-
bined with the cheese-flavored souffie
base (Step 6). The souffie will be puffiest
if baked at once, but it can sit half an
hour if protected by an upturned pot and
kept at room temperature.
Souffies require moderate to high heat
to puff up correctly, browning on top but
staying creamy and saucelike at the cen-
ter. The exact cooking t ime and tempera-
ture depend partly on the size of the souf-
fle, partly on the consistency desired. A
large souffi e baked in a moderate oven
usually takes 30 to 40 minutes, whereas
individual souffies cooked at higher heat
require only half that time. For a very
moist consistency, reduce the cooking
time and increase the oven temperature.
For a firmer, drier texture, increase the
time and reduce t he temperature.
76
1
Preparing the cheese. Shred or
grate cheese into the smallest possible
pieces its texture wi ll allow. Shred firm
cheese- such as the Gruyere shown
here - against the medium-sized
holes of a box grater. Grote harder
cheeses- such as the Parmesan at
left, above - against the small est holes.
6
Folding in egg whites. Spoon
the sauce gently into the bowl containing
the remaining beaten egg whi tes.
With a rubber or wooden spatula or your
hand, careful ly fold the whites into the
sauce. Be careful not to overmix: A few
streaks of unmixed egg whites are
preferable to a heavy souffl e.
2
Lining the dish. Generously butter
a straight-sided ovenproof dish. To lend
extra flavor and texture to the souffle
crust, sprinkle the buttered dish with a
few spoonfuls of grated cheese; tip
and roll the dish until it is well coated
(above). Shake out and reserve any
excess cheese for use in the sauce.
7
Shaping a cap. Pour the mixture
into the prepared dish; the dish should be
between half and three quarters full. If
you want the center of the souffle to rise in
a high cap, run your thumb around the
edge of the souffle (above) to make a
groove about l inch [2 Y2 em.] deep.
Bake the souffle for 35 to 40 minutes in a
preheated 375F. [190C.] oven.
3
Making a white sauce. Heat milk
just to boiling and set it aside. Melt the
butter in a heavy pan. Sti r in the flour
and cook the roux for two to three
minutes. Add the heated milk to the
roux (above), whisking briskly to prevent
lumps from forming. Season with salt,
pepper and grated nutmeg. Cook the
sauce uncovered over very low heat
for about 10 minutes, stirring it from time
to time. Let it cool slightly.
4
Enriching the sauce. Separate
room-temperature eggs and transfer the
whites to a large bowl, preferably of
copper. Off the heat, drop all of the yolks
but one into the sauce, reserving the
final yol k for another use. Whisk the yolks
into the sauce(obove). Stir in the cheese.
5
Lightening the sauce. With a wire
whisk, beat the whites until they form firm
but not dry peaks. To lighten the sauce
and thus make it easier to incorporate
into the bulk of the whi tes, gently mix
about a quarter of the beaten egg whi tes
into the sauce with the whisk (above) .
8
Serving the souffle. The souffle is
ready when it has risen well above the
rim of the dish and its top is golden
(left). Serve it without delay. Make sure
each helping includes some of the crust
and some of the moist center (above).
77
CHEESE COOKERY
Sturdy SouHie Puddings Steeped in Sauce
Although the classic baked cheese souffle
(page 77) is a dramatic dish, it is a su-
premely fragile one. By altering the souf-
fle's composition and cooking the mix-
ture in a moist atmosphere, you can
produce a sturdier version-one that can
be baked in advance, unmolded and then
reheated. A coating of sauce applied be-
fore reheating will soak into the souffle,
saturating it with extra flavor.
Like the classic souffle, this variation
begins with a white-sauce base. If you
like, you may follow the usual procedure
of cooking equal quantities of flour and
butter to make a roux, then adding milk.
Or cook the flour and milk together, then
beat in the butter, as shown here (recipe,
page 165) . This method allows you to use
a smaller proportion of butter; it is espe-
cially appropriate if you intend to serve
the souffle with cream or a rich sauce.
Although the classic souffle is often
made with more whites than yolks, one
or more extra yolks are incorporated into
this version to confer extra solidity. The
yolk-enriched sauce base is flavored with
white Cheddar in this demonstration, al-
though any fairly firm, assertive cheese
could be substituted. Instead of relying
exclusively on cheese for flavoring, you
can replace some of the cheese with an
equal quantity of cooked, chopped mush-
rooms, spinach, ham or fi sh.
Here, the souffle mixture is contained
in small individual molds, although a
large dish can be used if the cooking time
is adjusted accordingly. The first cooking
may take place as much as two to three
hours in advance of serving. It is done in
a water bath put in the oven. The moist
heat keeps the souffles from puffing up as
dramatically as those baked with dry
heat, yet it produces a firm, springy tex-
ture that enables the souffles to with-
stand unmolding.
The souffles made here are unmolded
onto a bed of grated Cheddar, then topped
with cream and more cheese (recipe,page
140) . For a contrast of flavor, you could
accompany the souffles with a tomato or
veloute sauce (recipes, pages 165-166).
78
l
Whisking milk into flour. Put the
flour into a heavy saucepan. In a
separate pan, scald the milk and let it
cool slightly. Off the heat, add it
gradually to the fl our, whisking to
prevent lumps. Add a little salt, pepper
ond grated nutmeg, then stir the
mixture over medium heat until it
becomes smooth and thickens.
6
Lifting out the souffles. When the
souffles are firm and springy to the touch,
remove the pan from the oven. Usi ng
a spatula, careful ly lift the ramekins out of
the water bath. Allow the souffl es to
cool for a few minutes before unmolding
them from the ramekins.
2
Adding butter. Remove the pan
from the heat. Cut butter into smal l pieces
and add them to the flour-and-mil k
mixture. Whisk the sauce until all of the
pieces of butter are incorporated.
7
Unmolding the souffles. Butter an
ovenproof serving plate and grate
half of the remai ning cheese onto it.
Wi th your fingers, gentl y ease each
souffle free from the sides of its
ramekin(above), or run a knife around it.
Unmold the souffles onto your hand
and place them on the bed of cheese.
3
8
Grating cheese. Choose o fairly hard
cheese - Parmesan, for example, or
the white Cheddar shown above. Using
the medium-sized or small holes of a
grater, according to the hardness of the
cheese, grate half the cheese into the
pan(obove) , then whisk it into the sauce.
Adding cream. Pour or spoon
heavy cream over the souffles on the
plate, immersing them as deep as
the plate permits - up to about half of
their depth. Sprinkle more grated
cheese over the top of each souffle.
4
Adding egg whites. Separate
eggs, adding one extra yolk for every two
whole eggs. Beat all of the yolks into
the sauce. In a large bowl, preferably of
copper, beat the egg whites until they
form soft peaks (Step 3, page 69). Fold
the whites gently into the souffle base.
5
Filling ramekins. Butter ceramic
ramekins. Spoon enough souffle mixture
into each ramekin to fill it by two thirds
(above) . Set the ramekins on a rack in a
large pan. Pour hot water into the pan
until it comes two thirds of the way up the
sides of the ramekins. Cook the
souffles in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.)
oven for about 20 minutes.
9
Serving the souffles. Bake the souffles in their coating of
cream for another 20 minutes at 350 F. [180 C.], until the cream is
almost completel y absorbed and the melted cheese has gilded
the tops of the souffles. The souffles will puff up slightly during
baking; serve them quickly, straight from the oven.
79
CHEESE COOKERY
A SouHie Wrapping for a Savory Filling
A souffie mixture spread thin in a wide,
shallow pan will develop a firm yet light
texture when baked, and will lose little of
its airiness when unmolded. Such a souf-
fle is flexible enough to be rolled around a
creamy stuffing flavored with cheese or
other ingredients. It can then be briefly
returned to the oven so that it will heat
through and regain its lost volume before
being served in slices.
In the roll demonstrated, the souffie
mixture is flavored with Parmesan and
Gruyere cheeses; the filling is ricotta,
beaten with cream and garnished with
chopped parsley and chunks of sweet red
pepper. Instead of peppers, you could use
sauteed zucchini, parboiled young peas
or stewed, drained tomatoes. Other possi-
ble fillings include a duxelles mixture of
chopped shallots and mushrooms stewed
in butter (recipe, page 142), or a base of
cream cheese, cottage cheese or white
sauce enlivened with blue or smoked
cheese or grated Parmesan.
The composition of the souffie base is
similar to that of the souffie on pages 76-
77, except that an equal number of egg
whites and yolks are used. This propor-
tion gives the souffie enough substance
to be rolled without cracking or break-
ing. Even so, the souffie is quite fragile
and must be handled with care.
To facilitate the unmolding, a buttered
baking pan (a jelly-roll pan is used here)
should be lined with well-buttered wax
or parchment paper. The souffie is turned
out onto a towel to ensure gentle han-
dling. As the filled souffie is rolled, the
towel serves to distribute pressure even-
ly along the length of the rolled edge. The
towel is then used to lift the souffie into
an ovenproof dish. There the souffie is
topped with melted butter and grated
cheese, which will form a crust during
the second phase of baking.
80
l
Filling the baking pan. Butter a
jelly-roll pan. Line the bottom and sides
with buttered wax or parchment
paper, keeping the buttered surface
inward. Prepare a souffle mixture
(pages 76-77), using an equal number of
egg yolks and whites. Pour the souffle
mixture into the pan, spreading it into
a uniform layer with a spatula.
5
Lifting the roll. When the souffle
and filling have been completely rolled
up, lift the roll, stil l on its towel, onto a
buttered ovenproof gratin dish. Carefully
slide the roll onto the dish, positioning
it so that the seam side is underneath.
2
Unmolding the souffle. Bake the
souffle at 350F. [180C. ] for 15
minutes, or until it is puffy and lightly
golden. Remove the pan from the oven
and cover it with a towel big enough
to overlap the edges on all sides. Grasp
the towel-covered pan and reverse it
so the souffle rests on the towel. Carefully
lift the pan off the souffle (above).
6
Topping the roll. Melt some butter
and spoon it over the roll. Grate a small
amount of the same cheese used to
flavor the souffle and sprinkle the cheese
over the roll, distributing it evenly so
that it wil l form a uniform crust.
3
Spreading the filling. Allow the souffle to cool on the towel
for a few minutes. Peel off the paper lining. Since the edges of the
souffle tend to be more brittle than the rest and might crack when
rolled, trim about Y2 inch [ 1 em.) off the two shorter sides. Prepare a
filling - ricotta beaten with heavy cream is shown. Spoon the
filling onto the souffle (above) and spread it in an even layer with a
spatula. Leave a margin of about 1 inch [2Y2 em.) on all sides so
that the filling does not ooze out when the souffle is rolled.
7
Serving the souffle. Return the roll
to the 350F. [ 180C.) oven to heat the
souffle and its filling through. Remove
the roll when a light crust has formed on
top - approximately 1 0 to 12 minutes.
Serve the roll cut into slices.
4
Rolling the souffle. Sprinkle the top of the fi lling with
chopped parsley and with sweet red peppers that have been
roasted until charred on all sides, left to cool under a damp
towel, peeled, seeded and chopped. Roll up the souffle, using the
towel to apply uniform pressure along the rolled edge. To avoid
a gap in the center, start the roll wi th as tight a fold as possible.
81
CHEESE COOKERY
Fondue: Molten and Mellow
Among dishes in which cheese holds cen-
ter stage, the simplest consists of cheese
that is melted into a thick sauce and
served-for a contrast of texture-with
crusty bread. To prevent the fat and pro-
tein in the cheese from separating, the
melting must be done as gently as possi-
ble: The cheese is diced or shredded, and
cooked in a little wine or beer, which not
only keeps the cheese from direct contact
with the heat, but also contributes a
pleasant, subtle flavor. The cooking ves-
sel should be a heavy one set on top of a
heat-diffusing pad so that the liquid can
be held at the barest simmer.
Other details of preparation depend on
how the dish is to be served. A Swiss fon-
due (the word means "melted" in French)
is generally made with Gruyere, some-
times mixed with Emmentaler or Appen-
zeller, and includes a generous amount of
dry white wine (demonstration, right;
recipe, page 151).
The fondue comes to the table in its
cooking vessel, which is set on a porta-
ble heat source to keep the cheese hot
and molten. Each diner swirls chunks of
bread in the pot to coat them with cheese.
Because such prolonged exposure to heat
increases the risk of the cheese separat-
ing, a little potato flour or all-purpose
flour is stirred in before serving: The
grains of starch hold the cheese in sus-
pension in the wine and help to keep the
mixture stable.
If a smaller quantity of cheese is melt-
ed in just a splash ofliquid and presented
at once, in individual portions, a binder is
not necessary. A case in point is Welsh
rabbit. This venerable dish-now often
referred to as Welsh rarebit-was no
doubt christened in ironic reference to
the toasted cheese that constituted din-
ner when a Welsh hunter failed to bag
any game. It is made with mature Ched-
dar, or a similar sharp-flavored cheese,
and beer (box, right; recipe, page 153) .
The melted mixture is simply poured
over toast or fried bread; it can t hen be
briefly popped under the broiler to brown
the top lightly before serving.
82
l
CuHing the bread. Use a crusty
French loaf that has begun to dry out and
is firm enough to cut up neatly. With a
large, sharp knife, cut the bread into thick
slices (above) . Halve or quarter the
slices into bite-sized chunks.
A Blend of Cheddar and Beer
2
Flavoring the pot. To give the
fondue a faint flavor of garl ic, cut a
peeled garlic clove in half and rub its
cut surfaces all over the inside of the
cooking vessel- traditionally, an
earthenware pot. Discard the clove.
l
Melting cheese in beer. Put a 2
heavy pan on a heat-diffusing pad over
medium heat. Add a small chunk of
Serving the melted cheese. Stir
constantly while the cheese melts. As
soon as the mixture is thick and
creamy, pour it over hot buttered toast,
set on heatproof serving plates. Slip
the Welsh rabbit under a preheated
broiler for a few seconds, or unti l the
top is browned lightly.
butter and pour in beer or, as shown
here, dark ale. Season with salt and
pepper. When the beer is warm, add
grated Cheddar. Worcestershire
sauce and prepared mustard add flavor.
3
Adding the cheese. Trim the rind
off the cheese - Gruyere is used
obove n d cut it into small dice. Put
the pot on top of a heat-diffusing pad
over medium heat and pour in dry
white wine. Season it with pepper and a
little nutmeg. When the wine is warm
but not yet simmering, add the cheese.
6
Serving the fondue. Transfer the
pot of fondue to a portable heat source
set on the dining table. Adjust the
flame to maintain the fondue at a gentle
simmer. Give each guest a long-
handled fork and some bread pieces. To
eot the fondue, spear a piece of bread
on the fork, dip it into the pot, lift it out and
immediately turn it to coat it with the
melted cheese and prevent dripping.
4
Stirring the fondue. As the
cheese melts, stir it constantly with a
wooden spoon to ensure that it is
evenly heated, scraping the bottom of
the pot to keep the mixture from
sticking. Adjust the heat so that the
mixture bubbles very gently.
Adding a binder. In a cup or small
bowl, dissolve a little potato flour in kirsch
or whi te wine. When the cheese has
melted completely, stir in the flour and
wine to stabilize the fondue. Simmer
the fondue for a minute or two longer in
order to blend the flavors.
83
CHEESE COOKERY
Contrasting Layers Fused in the Oven
When layered with complementary in-
gredients and baked, cheese melts and
unites a casserole with its flavor and tex-
ture. A substantial vegetable such as po-
t ato or eggplant, or a starchy ingredient
such as bread, rice or pasta, gives the cas-
serole body, while a sauce contributes
moistness. Lightly beaten egg, poured
over the assembly, binds it as it cooks.
The way a cheese is prepared for lay-
ering will depend on its texture. Soft
cheeses-ricotta or a blue cheese, for ex-
ample-are spread or crumbled into the
casserole. Semisoft cheeses such as moz-
zarella or Port-Salut are sliced % inch [6
mm.] thick. Firm cheeses such as Parme-
san or Cheddar are shredded or grated.
You may vary the ingredients to taste.
In this demonstration (recipe, page 139),
mozzarella cheese is accompanied with
milk-soaked bread and a tomato sauce.
Thinly sliced potatoes could replace the
bread. Instead of tomato sauce, you could
use a spinach puree enriched with cream,
or an herb-flavored white sauce.
l
Moistening the bread. Cut firm, homemade-type white
bread into thin slices; do not trim off the crusts. Butter a large,
shallow casserole dish. Moisten each slice of bread by soaking
it briefly in a dish of milk, then place it in the casserole to make a
neat layer covering the bottom. In this case, the slices form an
overl apping pattern; alternatively, they could be cut into smaller
pieces and fi tted into the casserole side by side.
4
Mixing the binder. In a mixing bowl, whisk five or six eggs
until well blended. Beat in freshly grated Parmesan cheese(obove).
Pour the mixture evenly over the topmost bread layer. With a
long-ti ned fork, pierce through the layers in several places to
5
Adding a final topping. Let the casserole stand for a few
minutes so that the egg mixture permeates the bread. Dribble the
remaining tomato sauce over the top for a decorati ve effect
(above). Dot the surface wi th small pieces of butter, which will melt
enable the egg mixture to penetrate all of the layers. and help to brown the top during cooking.
84
2
Adding sauce. Ladle a sauce- in this example, a tomato
sauce (poge 35) -over the bread to cover it completely in a thick
Ioyer. For extra flavor, sprinkle the sauce with herbs. Dried
oregano is used here; crumble the leaves of the herb in your fingers
and :;cotter the pieces over the Ioyer of sauce.
6
Baking and serving. Bake the
casserole, uncovered, in a preheated
350 F. [180 C.] oven for about one
hour, until the top is lightly browned.
Cut the casserole into wedges (right).
Serve the casserole either hot or
worm, accompanied by a green solod.
3
Arranging the cheese. Spread the cheese- in this instance
mozzarella, sliced % inch [6 mm.] thick- neatly on top of the
tomato sauce to cover it almost completely (obove). Alternate
layers of milk-soaked bread, herb-sprinkle9 sauce and mozzarella
until the casserole is nearly full, ending with a Ioyer of bread.
Reserve a little sauce fora topping(Step 5). Use a spoon or spatula
to press down the top layer and compact the assemblage.
85
CHEESE COOKERY
A Choice of Pastry Containers
Pastry makes attractive containers for
melted-cheese mixtures and provides, in
addition, a crisp textural contrast to the
soft filling. The pastry itself is formed as
shown on page 37; the ingredients in the
pastry mixture will vary, however, with
the type of casing you choose.
The free-form pastry casing demon-
strated at right, for instance, will need a
crust strengthened with eggs in order to
hold its shape (recipe, page 147) .
For this casing, sheets of unbaked pas-
try are closely molded and sealed around
a filling of cheese and ham bound with
egg. The cheese is a mixture of ricotta,
chosen for its smooth body; Parmesan,
for its strong, nutty flavor; mozzarel-
la, for its melting qualities; and provo-
lone, for its piquancy. The Parmesan is
grated, the provolone and t he mozzarella
are simply cubed. The mozzarella softens
during the lengthy cooking time needed
to bake the crust , but the provolone re-
mains firm enough to add a distinctive
textural note to the pie.
A similar effect could be achieved with
a variety of other cheeses: Any fresh
white cheese could be used instead of
ricotta, Cheddar instead of Parmesan,
Fontina instead of mozzarella. Or you
could completely change the dish's char-
acter by replacing the provolone with
a blue cheese, or by studding the mix-
ture with chopped vegetables, salted and
drained if they exude liquid, as tomatoes
do. Any mixture for a casing of this type
should be fairly dense and firm, so that it
does not seep out during cooking.
If you form and prebake an open tart
shell (pages 74-75), the filling mixture
can be a liquid one that will firm up with
additional baking. In the bottom demon-
stration, a partially baked pastry shell is
filled with Brie that has been melted by
gentle heating in a water bath and then
moistened with cream and egg (recipe,
page 143). Briefbaking is sufficient to set
the cheese filling and color the crust.
86
A Free-form Pie
l
Mixing the cheese. Cut
mozzarella and provolone into small
dice. In a Iorge bowl, mix the diced
cheese wi th diced cooked hom, a lump
of fresh cheese - in this case,
ricotto - and grated Parmesan. Sti r into
the mixture a littl e chopped parsley,
beaten egg, and salt and pepper.
An Open Tart with a Melted Filling
l
Preparing the cheese. Cut the
rind from a ripe piece of soft cheese- in
this example, Brie. Cut the cheese into
chunks and put them in a pan. Stand the
pan on a rock in a larger pan half-
filled with simmering water (above). Add
cream gradually to the cheese and stir
until the cheese has melted smoothly.
2
2
Putting the filling in place. Make a
short-crust dough and divide it into
two slightly unequal portions. Roll the
larger portion into a round about Y4
inch [6 mm. ) thick. Tri m it to make a circle.
Drape the circle around the roll ing pin
and transfer it to a baking sheet. Spoon
the fi lling onto the dough (above).
Adding beaten egg. Beat eggs
and gradually stir them into the melted
cheese. Remove the mixture from the
heat and flavor with salt and a little
sugar. If you like, add a pinch of
saffron, dissolved in a spoonful of boiling
water, and a little ground ginger.
3
3
Enclosing the filling. Pat the fi lling
into a neat circle, leaving a margin of
dough 1 Y2 inches [4 em.] wide al l
around. Roll the second piece of dough
into a circle and tri m it. Drape it
loosely around the rolling pin, then unroll
it to cover the fi ll ing. Brush the edge of
the top layer with beaten egg or water.
Filling the pastry case. Line a
tart pan with a removable base with
short-crust dough and partially bake
it, as demonstrated on page 75, Step 3.
Then pour the cheese-and-egg
mixture into the pastry case (above).
4
Sealing the dough. Fold the
exposed rim of the bottom layer of dough
back over the edge of the top layer.
Then fold thi s tripled ri m up against the
enclosed fi lling. To fl ute the edge,
press in with a forefinger while pushing
an adjacent section out with your
thumb. Slit the pie lid to let steam escape.
5
Baking and serving the pie. For
an attracti ve glaze, brush the top of the
pie with egg yolk mixed with water,
and score the glaze with the tines of a
fork. Bake in a 375 F. [190 C. ] oven
for about one hour, until the pastry cri sps.
Using two wide spatulas, transfer the
pie to a dish; serve it hot or cold.
4
Baking and serving the tart. Bake the tart in a preheated
375o F. [1 90o C.] oven for 30 minutes, until the fil ling puffs and the
surface is golden brown. Lift the tart from its mold (Step 7, page
75) and slide it onto a serving plate. Present the tart hot, tepid or
cold, cutting wedges just before servi ng it.
87
CHEESE COOKERY
Surprise Parcels with Savory Centers
Small pieces of firm, well-flavored cheese
become delectably soft when baked or
fried, but they require some form of pro-
tection to keep them in shape and pre-
vent their surfaces from melting as they
cook. Cheese pieces to be baked can be
wrapped in leaves and thus transformed
into savory surprise parcels. Because the
leaves provide moisture, t hey are par-
ticularly useful for cheese that is be-
ginning to dry up and might otherwise
be thrown away.
The leaves best suited to wrapping
cheese are grapevine leaves: They have a
unique aroma and a mildly astringent
flavor that attenuates the sharpness of a
cheese past its prime. Fresh leaves have
the best color, but they are likely to be
tough, even after cooking; most diners
prefer to discard them before they eat
the cheese. Preserved leaves are general-
ly tender enough to eat; they should be
covered with boiling water and soaked
for half an hour to remove the taste
of brine before you wrap them around
the cheese. Lettuce and spinach leaves,
blanched briefly to make them supple,
can also serve as wrappers.
Leaves will not adhere to cubes of
cheese (right, bottom) that are deep fr ied.
Instead, the cubes should be coated with
protective layers of flour, eggs and bread
crumbs. Cook t he cubes in olive oil for its
delicate, fruity flavor, or in an oil with an
unassertive t aste-corn or peanut oil ,
for example-so that the fl avor of the
cheese is unchallenged.
To ensure that the coat ing cooks to
crispness, the oil should be deep enough
to cover the cubes and must be main-
tained at a temperature of350 to 375 F.
[180 to 190 C.]. If you do not have a
deep-frying thermometer, test the t em-
perature by dropping a cube of bread into
the pan: The oil should sizzle and the
bread should crisp almost immediately.
To prevent fluctuations in the tempera-
ture of the oil, introduce the cold pieces of
cheese to the pan one by one and fry t hem
in batches, taking care not to crowd the
pan. Drain the cubes of cheese t horough-
ly before serving them.
88
A Shiny Wrapping of Leaves
l
Preparing the cheese. With a
sharp knife pare the rind from pieces of
cheese- a goat's-mil k cheese that
has begun to dry up is shown here.
Cut away any mold on the cheese
surface. Small cheeses should be cut into
halves or quarters; cut large cheeses
into
3
/4-inch [2-cm.] cubes.
Crunchy Crumb Coating for Cubes
1
Cutting cubes of cheese. With a
sharp knife, remove the rind from a large
block of cheese- Fontina, in this case.
Cut through the cheese to make slices
about
3
/.t inch [2 em.] thick. Cut each sl ice
into strips
3
/4 inch wide, then slice across
the strips to cube the cheese.
2
2
Wrapping the cheese. Wash
fresh grapevine leaves in cold water and
dry them with paper towels. Snap off
the stems. Place a piece of cheese about
1 inch [2% em.] from the base of each
leaf. Fold the sides of the leaf over the
cheese, tucking in the edges neatly;
rol l up the leaf to form a package.
Coating the cubes. With your
fingers, turn each cube first in flour, then
in beaten egg. Finally, place the cube
on a pile of dry bread crumbs. Sprinkle
some more crumbs over the top and
sides of the cube, patting them into place
evenly. Set the cubes aside for a few
minutes to firm the coating.
3
3
Cooking the parcels. Arrange the
cheese parcels compactly in an oiled
ovenproof dish, with the loose ends of
each wrapping tucked well under the
cheese. To prevent the leaves from
charring, brush the parcels with olive
oil. Put the dish in a preheated 450 F.
[230 C.] oven for about 15 minutes.
Deep frying the cubes. Half-fill a
deep saucepan with oil. Heat the oil to
350 F. [180 C.]. With a slotted
spoon, lower the cheese cubes one at a
time into the oil (above); be careful not
to crowd the pan. The cubes will be ready
in three or four minutes, when their
coatings have turned a rich golden
brown. Drain them on paper towels.
4
Serving the cheese. When the
vine leaves start to darken and the
parcels feel soft when pressed,
remove the dish from the oven. Serve
the leaf-wrapped cheese hot-
accompanied, if you like, by slices
of bread that have been crisped in the
oven for five minutes.
4
Serving the fried cheese. Arrange the drained cubes on an
ovenproof dish. Place the dish in a preheated 250 F. [120 C. ]
oven to keep the cheese hot whi le you fry more batches. When
all of the cubes are fried and drained, arrange them on a napkin
and serve, while they are soft and creamy inside (obove).
89
CHEESE COOKERY
Pancake Packages
Wafer-thin pancakes, wrapped around
fresh cheese, form envelopes of fl avor
known as blintzes. In this classic of Mid-
dle European cuisine, the pancakes are
twice-cooked: After the parcels are filled,
they are returned to t he skillet to heat
t he cheese and crisp the wrappers.
Because these pancakes absorb mois-
ture, t he filling must be made with a dry
cheese such as farmer, ricotta or un-
l
Preparing the filling. Place a
strainer over a bowl. With a wooden
spoon, force the cheese- in this case,
farmer cheese moistened with a small
amount of creamed cottage cheese -
through the strainer. Stir in egg yolks,
melted butter and sugar. Salt to taste.
creamed cottage cheese. If the cheese
seems stiff, some sour cream or creamed
cottage cheese may be added before the
cheese is sieved to make it smoother. The
mixture is then bound with egg yolks
(recipe, page 158).
The pancake batter contains a high ra-
t io of eggs, yielding flexible, crepelike
cakes. To ensure tenderness, mix the in-
gredients just enough to moisten them,
2
Making the pancake. Prepare
the batter and let it rest for an hour. Heat
a heavy skillet or crepe pan; brush the
pan with a film of melted butter. Ladle in
about 3 tablespoons [45 mi.] of batter
and quickly tilt the pan to spread it in a
thin layer. Cook the pancake for 20 to
30 seconds, just until the top sets.
then let the batter stand to relax the
flour's gluten-a resilient network of
protein molecules.
The pancakes are fried on only one
side, then folded around the filling with
the uncooked surface facing out. When
the parcels are fried, the uncooked side
will brown without toughening. Serve
blintzes hot with sour cream, berries or
preserves, or cinnamon and sugar.
3
Stacking the pancakes. Loosen
the cooked pancake with a spatula, if
necessary, and slide it onto a plate.
Brush the pan with more butter if it looks
dry. Continue to make pancakes,
stacking one on top of the other.
4
Filling the blintzes. Lay a pancake, cooked side up, on a flat
surface. Place a spoonful of fil ling just above the center of the
pancake (left). Fold the sides of the pancake toward the middle
so that they overlap(centerJ. Fold down the top to seal in the filling
5
. Frying the blintzes. Place the blintzes, seam sides down, in a
heated pan brushed with butter. Fry them for four or five minutes,
regulating the heat so the blintzes brown slowly and evenly. When
the underside is done, use two spatulas to turn each blintz(obove),
(right), then roll the pancake toward you.
and cook for another four or five minutes. Serve at once.
90
<:Anthology

Drawing upon the cooking traditions and literature of more
than 32 countries, the editors and consultants for this volume
have selected 220 published recipes for the Anthology that fol-
lows. The selections range from t he simple to the unusual-
from homely Welsh rabbit to an elegant Roquefort quiche baked
in a yeast-pastry shell.
Many of the recipes were written by world-renowned expo-
nents of the culinary art, but the Anthology also includes selec-
tions from rare and out-of-print books and from works that have
never been published in English. Whatever the sources, the
emphasis in these recipes is always on fresh, natural ingredi-
ents that blend harmoniously.
Since many early recipe writers did not specify amounts of
ingredients, sizes of pans or even cooking times and tempera-
tures, the missing information has been judiciously added. In
some cases, instructions have been expanded. Where appropri-
ate, clarifying introductory notes have also been supplied; they
are printed in italics. Modern terms have been substituted for
archaic language, but to preserve the character of t he original
recipes and to create a true anthology, the authors' texts have
been changed as little as possible.
In keeping with the organization of t he first half of the book,
the Anthology begins with dishes based on whole eggs, contin-
ues to those made with beaten eggs (and in some cases, cheese as
well), and concludes with dishes that feature cheese.
Recipes for standard preparations-white sauce, short-
crust pastry and stock among them-appear at the end of the
Anthology. Unfamiliar cooking terms and uncommon ingredi-
ents are explained in the combined General Index and Glossary.
Apart from the primary components-eggs, cheese and ele-
ments that are mentioned in the recipe titles-all recipe ingre-
dients are listed in order of use, with both the customary United
States measurements and the new metric measurements pro-
vided in separate columns. The metric quantities supplied here
reflect the American practice of measuring such solid ingre-
dients as flour or sugar by volume rather than by weight, as
European cooks do.
'lb make the quantities simpler to measure, many of the
figures have been rounded off to correspond to the gradations
t hat are now standard on metric spoons and cups. (One cup, for
example, equals precisely 240 milliliters; wherever practicable
in these recipes, however, a cup's equivalent appears as a more
readily measurable 250 milliliters.) Similarly, weight, tem-
perature and linear metric equivalents are rounded off slightly.
Thus the American and metric figures are not equivalent, but
using one set or the other will produce equally good results.
Fried Eggs
Poached and Mollet Eggs
Hard-boiled Eggs
Baked Eggs
Scrambled Eggs
Omelets
Custards, Puddings
and Souffles
Pies and Quiches
Fondues and Rabbits
Special Cheese
Presentations
Basic Cheeses
Standard Preparations
Recipe Index
92
94
100
106
115
119
133
143
151
155
162
164
168
91
FRI ED EGGS
92
~ r i e ~ g g s
To Fry an Egge as Round as a Ball
The author has adapted this recipe from one that she found in
an Elizabethan cookbook.
To serve 4
4 to 8 eggs 4 to 8
lib. lard
Heat t he lard in a very deep frying pan until it spits when a
small piece of bread is dropped into it. With a large wooden
spoon, stir the lard until a great pit is swirling in the center
of the pan. Continue stirring and drop an egg into the center,
stirring around the egg until it is cooked through. Remove
gently with a slotted spoon and place the egg into a warmed
casserole. Proceed wit h each egg until they are all cooked. It
may take two people to cook eggs t his way, one to crack and
drop the egg, the other to stir. Serve at once.
4
4
Y2 cup
4 tbsp.
RUTH ANNE BEEBE
SALLETS, HUMBLES & SHREWSBERY CAKES
Eggs Clementine
Oeufs a la Clementine
To serve 4
eggs
slices bread, fried in butter
shredded Gruyere cheese
dry white wine
salt
cayenne pepper
butter
4
4
125 mi.
50 mi.
60 mi.
Arrange the fried bread in an ovenproof serving dish. Melt
the cheese in a saucepan with the wine; season it with salt
and cayenne. Pour this mixture onto the fried bread. Fry t he
eggs in hot butter, and place each egg on a slice of the fried
bread. Put the dish into a preheated 400F. [200 C.] oven, or
under a broiler, for two minutes to glaze the tops ofthe eggs.
LE CORDON BLEU
4
2 tbsp.
2
4
Y3 cup
Toasted Omelet
To serve 2
eggs, beaten until frothy
large onion, finely chopped
chopped fresh coriander leaves
fresh green chilies, stemmed, seeded
and finely chopped
salt
sl ices bread with the crusts removed
oil
4
. 30 mi.
2
4
75 mi.
Mix t he eggs with the onion, coriander, chilies, and salt to
taste. Soak the bread in this mixture for about five minutes
until it is slightly soft. Heat the oil in a large skillet and fry
the bread. Distribute the remaining egg mixture equally on
top of the slices. Fry the bread slices on both sides until they
are golden brown. Serve immediately.
PREMILA LAL
THE EGG & CHEESE COOK-BOOK
Rancher-Style Eggs
H uevos Rancheros
Tomatillos are green ground cherries, sometimes called husk
tomatoes, available in cans in Latin American food stores.
The oils in chilies may irritate your skin; handle them care-
fully and wash your hands immediately after chopping them.
To serve 4
8 eggs, f ried
8
8 tortillas
8
12 tomatillos, coarsely chopped 12
5 tbsp. lard
75 mi.
1 onion, chopped
1
garlic clove, chopped
1
sprig fresh coriander, chopped
1 or 2 fresh hot chil ies, stemmed, seeded 1 or 2
and chopped
salt
Using a mortar and pestle, pound the tomatillos and garlic
together with the coriander and chilies. Fry the onion in 2
tablespoons [30 ml. ] oflard until they are soft. Add the toma-
tillo mixture and simmer the sauce for 10 minutes. Fry the
tortillas in the remaining lard until they become soft. Drain
them and place the tortillas on a warmed platter. Place one
fried egg on top of each tortilla. Pour the tomatillo sauce over
the eggs. Serve while the eggs are still hot.
NURI FONSECA
RECETAS DE AMERICA LATINA
Spanish Fried Eggs
H uevos Fritos a la Espanola
To serve 4
4 eggs 4
Y2 cup olive oil 125 mi.
large onion, chopped 1
4 medium-sized ripe tomatoes, peeled 4
and chopped
3 green peppers, halved, seeded, 3
deribbed and chopped
salt
toasted bread, cut into triangles
(optional)
Heat 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of the oil in a saucepan and cook
the onion, tomatoes and peppers in it until slightly softened.
Season with salt, cover and cook slowly for 40 minutes, or
until the vegetables are cooked to a thick puree. Place the
puree in a warmed serving dish.
Fry the eggs in the remaining oil; break them into a cup
first if desired and slide them into the hot oil.
When they are cooked, place the eggs on top of the puree
to serve. If desired, garnish with triangles of toasted bread.
MARIA PILAR JEREZ
TU COCINA
Eggs the Antidame Way
The title of this 18th Century recipe probably indicates that
the ingredients were considered rather strong for refined
feminine tastes.
To serve 6
10 eggs 10
V3 cup olive oil 75 mi.
2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
2 tbsp. finely cut fresh chives 30 mi.
2 salt anchovies, filleted, soaked in 2
water for 30 minutes, drained, patted
dry and finely chopped
1 tbsp. capers, rinsed and finely chopped 15ml.
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
fresh lemon juice
Pour the olive oil into a heatproof serving dish and break six
of the eggs into it. Cook over low heat until the whites of the
eggs are just set, the yolks still soft.
Meanwhile, separate the yolks and whites of the four
remaining eggs. Whip the whites stiff. Put the yolks with the
parsley, chives, anchovies and capers and beat them all to-
gether; season with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg and lemon
juice. Fold in the egg whites, then put this composition over
the other eggs that are already in the dish, and bake in a
preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven until the top is slightly set; a
moment is enough. When they are done enough, serve hot.
VINCENT DE LA CHAPELLE
THE MODERN COOK
Eggs with Shrimp Sauce
Uova alla Salsa di Gambero
These eggs may be prepared in individual egg dishes, the
sauce poured over when they are half-cooked, and finished
under a broiler. The recipe serves six as a first course.
The original version of this recipe calls for prawns - crus-
taceans about the size of large shrimp but with the appearance
of tiny lobster tails. The tails are sometimes available frozen
in the United States.
To serve 3
6 eggs 6
5 oz. raw unshelled shrimp 150 g.
5tbsp. butter 75 mi.
1 tbsp. olive oil 15 mi.
2 tbsp. finely chopped onion 30 mi.
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
salt
Y2 oz. pine nuts, toasted and pounded in a 15 g.
mortar
5 or 6 tbsp. hot water 75or90ml.
Melt 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the butter in a pan with the oil.
Fry the onion and parsley gently until the onion is transpar-
ent, about 10 minutes. Add the shrimp and a pinch of salt,
and cook for 10 minutes. Add the pine nuts and cook for
another five minutes. Add the hot water, cover and simmer
over very low heat for 30 minutes. Pound the contents of the
pan in a mortar and press the mixture through a sieve. Re-
heat the sieved sauce.
Cook the eggs in the remaining butter until the whites
are barely set. Slip the eggs onto a warmed serving dish and
pour the reheated sauce over them before serving.
G. B. AND GIOVANNI RATTO
CUCINIERA GENOVESE
93
FRIED EGGS I POACHED AND MOLLET EGGS
94
Chard Croquettes with Egg Yol k
and Butter Sauce
Oui in Sublisi
To roast almonds, place blanched almonds on a baking sheet
in a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven for 10 minutes, or until
lightly browned.
To serve 3 or 4
4 eggs, beaten 4
y4 lb. Swiss chard, ribs removed, leaves 100 g.
parboiled for 3 minutes, squeezed dry
and chopped ( Y2 cup [ 125 mi.])
2 tbsp. butter or olive oil 30 mi.
1 scallion, chopped 1
1 tsp. chopped fresh sweet marjoram leaves 5 mi.
and flowers
1 tbsp. chopped roasted almonds 15 mi.
salt and pepper
Y4 tsp. ground cinnamon 1 mi.
3 cup milk 150 mi.
1 cup fl our Y4 liter
3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, or 150 mi.
Y2 cup [125 mi .] shredded provolone
cheese
1 cup dry bread crumbs Y4 liter
olive oil for deep frying
Egg yolk and butter sauce
2 egg yol ks 2
16 tbsp. unsalted butter (Y2 lb. [Y4 kg.]), diced 240 mi.
1 tbsp. cold water 15ml.
3 tbsp. flour 45 mi.
2Y2 cups tepid water, lightly salted 625 mi.
1 tbsp. strai ned fresh lemon juice 15 mi.
salt and pepper
For the croquettes, first heat the butter or oil in a saucepan
and add the chard, scallion, marjoram, almonds, salt, pepper
and cinnamon. Stir in the milk, and cook over low heat until
the liquid is almost completely absorbed. Add about 1 t able-
spoon [15 ml.] of the flour, half of the beaten eggs and all of
the cheese, and mix well . Cook for a minute or two longer
until the mixture is thick, then allow it to cool.
Shape the mixture into eight to 12 small cylinders, roll
them in the r emaining flour, then in the r emaining eggs,
and finally in the bread crumbs. Deep fry these croquettes a
few at a time in oil preheated to 365 F. [185 C.] until golden
brown, two to three minutes. Drain on absorbent paper, and
keep the croquett es warm while you prepare the sauce.
For the sauce, stir the egg yolks and cold water in a bowl.
Over low heat, melt 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of the butter in a
heavy saucepan, add the flour and stir until the mixture
begins to bubble. Off the heat, whisk in the tepid salted
water; return the pan to the heat and whisk again until the
mixture boils. Remove from the heat to cool for a minute,
then add t he egg yolks and return the pan to the heat. Whisk
until the sauce thickens slightly. Do not let it boil.
Off the heat, add the lemon juice and the r emaining but-
ter, and whisk steadily until t he sauce is smooth. Correct the
seasoning and serve the sauce immediately as an accompa-
niment to t he croquettes.
8
1 cup
IPPOLITO CA V ALCANTI
CUCINA TEORICOPRATICA

and Mollet
Eggs in Cream
Uoui alla Crema
To serve 4
eggs
heavy cream
salt and freshly ground pepper
8
% li ter
Pour the cream into a large enameled-iron gratin dish and
place it over high heat. Boil the cream until it has reduced by
half. Reduce t he heat, break the eggs into the cream, season
with salt and pepper, and cook until the eggs are almost set.
Place the dish under the broiler for about two minutes to
finish cooking the egg whites; the yolks should stay soft.
IL CUOCO PIEMONTESE RIDOTTO ALL'ULTIMO GUSTO
Eggs Poached in Wine
Uova in Camicia al Vino
This is a real connoisseur's dish that one rarely comes across
these days, and then only in the old families of Versilia. If
red wine is used instead of the white wine called for, the dish
becomes less delicate.
12
2 cups
3
2
3 tbsp.
12
To serve 6
eggs
dry white wine
onions, sliced
garlic cloves
thyme
bay leaf
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg (optional )
butter, kneaded with 1 tsp. [5 mi.] of
fl our
slices fi rm-textured white bread, fried
in butter
12
Y2 liter
3
2
50 mi.
12
Pour the wine into a saucepan and add the onions, garlic, a
pinch of thyme, the bay leaf, salt, pepper and, if desired, a
touch of nutmeg. Bring the mixture to a boil , reduce the heat
and simmer for 15 minutes.
One at a t ime, break the eggs into a small cup and slide
them into the wine, gently spooning the white over the yolk,
as for poached eggs. Cook no more than three eggs at a time.
The wine should barely simmer. After about three minutes,
remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and keep them warm.
When all of the eggs are cooked, remove the bay leaf and
puree the wine mixture through a fine sieve into a clean pan.
Whisk the kneaded butter into the wine, and cook it over low
heat until this sauce is reduced and thickened to a creamy
consistency. Place a poached egg on each piece of fried bread
and pour the sauce over the eggs.
MARIO SALVATORI DE ZULIANI
LA CUCINA DI VERSILIA E GARFAGNANA
Poached or Soft-boiled Eggs
with Fines Herbes
Oeufs Mollets Fines Herbes
These can be made either with poached eggs or oeufs mol-
lets-soft-boiled eggs-that is, eggs put in boiling water
and boiled for four to five minutes, st eeped in cold water and
shelled. The white is cooked and t he yolk remains soft with-
out being runny.
This is one of those excessively (and deceptively) simple
dishes which can make the reputation of a good cook; the
process takes only about two minutes, so provided that the
eggs are prepared beforehand and the herbs ready-chopped,
the di sh can be made at the last minute.
2
1 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
To serve 1
eggs, poached or soft-boiled
chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley,
chives and tarragon
butter
fresh lemon juice
2
15 mi.
15 mi.
Melt the butter , put in the eggs and saute them without
letting the butter burn. Sprinkle in the herbs and a squeeze
of lemon juice, and serve immediately.
12
1 quart
2 tbsp.
2
2
2
3
1 tbsp.
1
1 tbsp.
ELIZABETH DAVID
FRENCH COUNTRY COOKING
Eggs in Red Wine
Oeufs au Vin Rouge
To serve 6
eggs, at room temperature
red wine
rendered goose fat (or substi tute
butter)
shallots or l onion, sliced
carrots, sliced
leeks, white parts only, sliced
garlic cloves, crushed to a paste
fl our
bouquet garni
salt and pepper
vinegar
12
1 liter
30 mi.
2
2
2
3
15ml.
1
15 mi.
Melt the goose fat in a saucepan and add the shallots or
onion, the carrots, leeks and garlic. Cook for 10 minutes, or
until the vegetables are softened. Sprinkle in the flour, mix_
well, and stir in the wine. Add the bouquet garni and season
this sauce mixture with salt and pepper. Cook, uncovered,
over low heat for 45 minutes, or until the sauce is reduced by
half. Discard the bouquet garni.
Bring a large saucepan of water to a simmer and add the
vinegar. Poach the eggs, four at a time, in this liquid for four
to five minutes, using a slotted spoon to wrap the whites over
the yolks. Remove and drain the eggs, and trim the whites
neat. To serve, slide the eggs gently into t he wine sauce.
HENRI PHILIPPON
QUERCY PERIGORD
95
POACHED AND MOLLET EGGS
96
Poached Eggs in Wine Sauce
Oeufs en Matelote
To serve 4
4 eggs, poached 4
Y2 cup dry white wine 125 mi.
% lb. fresh button mushrooms {about 1 YJ 125 g.
cups [325 mi.])
y4 lb. pearl or small boiling onions, peeled 125 g.
(about 1 cup [Y4 liter])
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
1 tbsp. flour 15 mi.
Y2 cup beef stock (recipe, page 164) 125 mi.
2 egg yolks, beaten 2
4 slices bread, toasted 4
Saute the mushrooms and onions in the butter for about five
minutes, or until they begin to soften. Sprinkle in the flour,
and stir in the stock and wine. Cook, uncovered, over low
heat for 20 minutes, or until the onions are tender and the
sauce is thickened.
Remove the pan from the heat and cool the sauce slightly.
Stir the egg yolks into the sauce. Heat the sauce gently for a
minute or two to thicken it without letting it boil.
Arrange a poached egg on each slice of toast, pour the
sauce over the eggs, and serve.
A. B. DE PERIGORD
LE TRESOR DE LA CUISINIERE ET DE LA MAiTRESSE DE MAISON
8
2 oz.
4 tbsp.
Eggs, Cheese and Truffles
Oeufs, Fromage et Truffes
To serve 4
eggs
Fontino cheese, cut into small pieces
(about Y4 cup [50 mi. ] )
fresh white truffle, very thinly sliced
butter
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
8
50 g.
60 mi.
Melt the butter in a large skillet set over low heat, add the
cheese and let it melt. Add the slices of truffle and mix well.
Break the eggs onto the cheese and truffles and season them
with salt, pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Let the eggs set-
about five minutes-then serve.
F. AND T. RARIS
LES CHAMPIGNONS, CONNAISSANCE ET GASTRONOMIE
Eggs with Green Herb Sauce
To serve 6
6 eggs
1 cup fresh chervil, parsley, chives, tarragon
and watercress leaves, blanched for
1 minute in boi li ng water
6 capers, rinsed
oi l-pocked flat anchovy fil let, rinsed
and potted dry
1 Y4 cups white sauce (recipe, page 165)
6 slices bread, fried in butter
6
Y4 liter
6
300 mi.
6
Pound the herbs in a mortar with the capers and anchovy.
Pass the mixture through a sieve, and stir it into the whit e
sauce. Poach the eggs in simmering water. Arrange each
poached egg on a square offr ied bread, and pour a portion of
the sauce over each.
8
1 cup
1
4 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
1 tsp.
A. KENNEY HERBERT
FIFTY BREAKFASTS
Eggs with Mixed Vegetables
Uova alla Giardiniera
To serve 4
eggs, freshly poached and still worm
onion, chopped
freshly shelled peas
small celery heart, halved, cored and
chopped
butter
chopped fresh parsley
chopped f resh marjoram
salt
8
Y4 liter
60 mi.
30 mi.
5 mi.
Melt half of the butter in a saucepan and cook the onion until
soft. Add the peas, celery, parsley and marjoram; cover and
cook over very low heat until t he peas are tender, about 20
minutes. Add a tablespoon [15 ml.] of wat er to the pan after
the first 10 minut es ifthe pan looks dry. Off the heat, swirl in
the remaining butter and season t o taste.
Pour the vegetable mixture int o a ser ving dish, arrange
the poached eggs on top and serve.
VINCENZO CORRADO
IL CUOCO GALANTE
12
21b.
%cup
5 or6
Eggs Poached in Tomatoes
U ova al Pomodoro
To serve 6
eggs
very ripe plum tomatoes, peeled and
chopped
olive oil
garlic clove, chopped
salt and pepper
fresh basil leaves, each torn into
2 or 3 pieces
12
1 kg.
50 mi.
5 or6
Heat the oil in a large saucepan, preferably one made of
terra cotta. When it is hot, saute the garlic lightly until pale
golden in color. Add the tomatoes and cook them over low
heat for about 15 minutes. Check to be sure t hey are very soft
and of a saucelike consistency, and if necessary cook them a
little longer; do not add any water or broth. Add salt and
pepper to taste.
Add the basil to the saucepan. Carefully br eak t he eggs
into the tomato sauce. Sprinkle salt and pepper over the
eggs; let t hem poach for about eight minutes. Bring t he eggs
to t he table in t he pan.
GIULIANO BUGIALLI
THE FINE ART OF ITALIAN COOKING
Doctor's Eggs
Oeufs du Docteur
To serve 6
6 eggs 6
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
4 shallots, very finely chopped 4
1 cup chopped fresh mushrooms % liter
4 lettuce leaves, cut into thin shreds 4
YJ cup dry white wine 75 mi.
3
/4 cup veal stock(recipe, page 164), boiled 175 mi.
until syrupy and reduced to 4 tbsp.
[60 mi.]
1 cup heavy cream Y4 liter
1 tbsp. chopped fresh chervil 15ml.
1 tbsp. chopped fresh tarragon 15 mi.
rough puff pastry (recipe, page 166)
Roll out the dough to form an oval, using the trimmings to
make a border around the edge. Place t he oval on a floured
baking sheet and bake it in a preheated 400 F. [200 C.]
oven until it is puffed and golden, about 15 to 20 minutes.
Put the pastry on a large serving dish and keep it warm.
Heat the butter and cook the shallots in it until t hey are
soft but not brown. Add the mushrooms and lettuce leaves.
Moisten with t he wine, then cook the mixture over medium
heat until the liquid is reduced by half. Add the reduced
stock and t he cream, and continue cooking until t he sauce is
lightly t hickened.
Poach the eggs in a pan of simmering water, drain them,
and arrange them on the pastry shell. Add t he cher vil and
tarragon to the sauce and cover the eggs with it.
70 MEDECINS DE FRANCE
LE TRESOR DE LA CUISINE DU BASSIN MEDITERRANEEN
Poached Eggs with Sorrel Juice Sauce
Oeufs au Jus d'Oseille
If desired, the eggs may be served on slices of fried or toasted
bread, with the sauce poured over them.
To serve 6
6 eggs, poached
6
1 Y4 cups chopped fresh sorrel 300 mi.
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
2 tbsp. butter, cut into small pieces 30 mi.
2 egg yolks
2
1 cup veal stock (recipe, page 164) Y4 liter
In a mortar, pound the sorrel well, extracting all of the juice
from it. Whisk t he juice with all of the remaining ingredi-
ents except the poached eggs. Put the mixture in a saucepan
and stir it over low heat until lightly thickened; it must not
boil. Arrange the poached eggs in a warmed serving dish,
pour t he sauce over them and serve.
MARIN
LES DONS DE COMUS
97
POACHED AND MOLLET EGGS
98
6
% cup
Y2 cup
1 tsp.
4
1 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
Y4 tsp.
Eggs Poached in Creole Sauce
To serve 3
eggs
fi nely chopped green pepper
finely chopped scallions
chopped fresh mushrooms
salt
medium-sized tomatoes, peeled,
seeded, chopped and cooked until
soft, or pureed raw through a food mill
garlic clave, crushed to a paste
sugar
alive ail
pepper
chapped fresh parsley
6
50 mi.
50 mi.
125 mi.
5 mi.
4
15 mi.
30 mi.
1 mi.
50 mi.
Mix together all of the ingredients except the eggs, and place
them in a broad saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook for five
minutes. Turn off the heat . Break the eggs into a saucer and
slip them one at a time into the sauce. Let them st and for fi ve
minutes, or until the whites are just set. Serve each egg with
a portion of the sauce.
SUETRIBUS
THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF BREAKFAST
Eggs in Caul
Oeufs en Crepines, aCe que l'On Veut
Pork caul is a fatty stomach membrane, used as a natural
casing and obtainable at butcher shops. In place of t he
stewed onions, you may use any other diced cooked vegeta-
bles or meats, their cooking juices r educed and thickened.
Serve the dish with a sauce of your choice.
To serve 4
5 eggs, 4 poached, 1 beaten 5
4 pieces of pork caul, each about 4
6 inches [ 15 em.] square
5 tbsp. butter 75 mi.
1 Y3 cups chapped onions 325 mi.
2 salt anchovies, filleted, soaked in water 2
for 30 mi nutes, patted dry and chopped
3 egg yolks 3
3 tbsp. heavy cream 45 mi.
salt and pepper
Melt the butter, add the onions, and cook over very low heat
unt il soft but not colored, about 30 minutes. Stir in the
chopped anchovies. Beat together the egg yolks and cream
and, off the heat, stir them into the onion mixture. Return to
low heat and cook, stirring, until well t hickened. Season.
Trim any ragged edges from the poached eggs. Lay the
pieces of caul on a flat surface and brush them with beaten
egg. Place a spoonful of t he onion mixture on each piece of
caul, make a hollow in the mixture with the back of the
spoon, and slip a poached egg upside down into each hollow.
Mound the remaining mixture around the eggs, and wrap
the edges of the caul over the top to seal. Turn the packages
over, seam sides down, onto a baking sheet and bake in a
preheated 425 F. [220 C.] oven for about 10 minutes, or
until the caul is golden 6n top.
MENON
LES SOUPERS DE LA COUR
Brains in Red Sauce
Cervelles Sauce Rouge
The original version of this recipe called for sheep brains,
which are rarely available except from slaughterhouses.
To serve 6
6 eggs 6
4 calf's brains, soaked in cold water far 4
1 hour and membranes removed
1 cup water % liter
salt
2 dried red chilies 2
3 tbsp. chopped fresh coriander leaves (or 45 mi.
1 tsp. [5 mi. ] coriander seeds,
crushed)
4 garlic cloves 4
1 tbsp. paprika 15 mi.
Y2 cup ail 125 mi.
Put the brains in a saucepan with the water. Salt them, and
add the chilies, coriander and garlic. Dissolve the paprika in
the oil and add it to the pan.
Cook the brains over low to medium heat for 20 minutes,
or until they are cooked through but still firm. Three min-
utes before taking the pan from the heat , add the eggs, one
by one, and poach them in the sauce.
IRENE LABARRE AND JEAN MERCIER
LA CUISINE DU MOUTON
6
6
3
% tbsp.
Eggs Benedict
To serve 6
eggs, poached
thin slices ham
English muffins, halved, toasted and
generously buttered
butter
Madeira (optional)
hollandaise sauce (recipe, page 165)
paprika
fresh parsley sprigs
6
6
3
7 mi.
Trim the ham to fit the muffins. Sizzle the ham in a frying
pan in a small amount of butter, turn, and add the Madeira,
if used. Lay one slice of ham on each muffin half, top with a
poached egg, and-Gover with hollanda.ise sauce. Sprinkle
with paprika and garnish with parsley. Serve hot.
IDA BAILEY ALLEN
BEST LOVED RECIPES OF THE AMERICAN PEOPLE
Mollet Eggs with Haddock
The techniques of cooking and shelling mollet eggs are dem-
onstrated on pages 24-25. The haddock may be baked or
poached until it flakes easily.
To serve 4
4 mollet eggs, shelled 4
%lb. cooked haddock, flaked (about Y4 kg.
2 cups [Y2 liter] )
l cup white sauce (recipe, page 165) Y4 liter
Y2 cup light cream 125 mi.
salt and pepper
2 garlic cloves, fi nely chopped 2
1 tbsp. vegetable oil 15 mi.
Keep the shelled eggs warm in a bowl of hot water. Bring the
white sauce to a boil, stir in the cream and boil rapidly for
five minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Crush the garlic until smooth with teaspoon [1 ml. ]
salt, using the flat side of a knife blade. In a saucepan, cook
the crushed garlic in the oil for a few minutes, then add the
haddock. Beat the mixture over the heat, gradually adding
three quarters of the white sauce; check the seasoning. Turn
the haddock mixture into a warm serving dish. Remove the
eggs from the water, drain them well and arrange them on
top. Coat the eggs with the remaining sauce and serve for
lunch with toast or garlic bread.
THE EDITORS OF HOUSE & GARDEN
HOUSE & GARDEN'S NEW COOK BOOK
Eggs Poached on Tomatoes
and Smoked Herring
Aijja au Hareng Fume "Lzza bi Ringa"
Harissa is a hot condiment widely used in North African
cooking. To make it, combine dried re,d chilies, chopped gar-
lic, cumin seeds, salt and olive oil in proportions to taste, and
pound them together in a mortar or grind them to a smooth
paste in a blender or food processor.
4
4
3 oz.
l cup
Y2 cup
l tbsp.
2 tsp.
3 or4
1% tsp.
1
To serve 4
eggs
medi um-sized tomatoes, peeled and
si eved
smoked herring, broiled for
5 to 7 minutes, skinned, filleted and
crumbled
water
olive oi l
harissa
paprika
garl ic cloves, thinly sliced
caraway seeds, pounded to a paste
medium-sized sweet red pepper,
halved, seeded, deri bbed and diced
salt
4
4
100g.
Y4 liter
100 mi.
15ml.
10ml.
3 or 4
7 mi.
Heat the oil in a skillet. Stir in the tomatoes, harissa, papri-
ka, garlic and caraway seeds. Add t he herring and the water.
Simmer the mixture for five minutes, then add the red pep-
per. Continue cooking over low heat for about 20 minutes, or
until you have a thick sauce.
Correct t he seasoning and break the eggs, one by one,
onto the sauce. Cook until the whites set, and serve hot.
AHMED LAASRI
240 RECETTES DE CUISINE MAROCAINE
99
POACHED AND MOLLET EGGS I HARD-BOILED EGGS
Egg Sausage
Natural sausage casings are cleaned beef, lamb or pork intes-
tines. For this recipe, lamb or pork casings may be used. They
are available in bulk from wholesalers and in smaller quanti-
ties from butchers.
These sausages may be treated like any meat sausage:
sauteed or poached, or sliced and eaten cold.
To serve 4
6 eggs, beaten until frothy 6
1 tsp. salt 5ml.
Y2 tsp. white peppercorns, crocked 2 mi.
Y4 tsp. cayenne pepper 1 mi.
1 tsp. finely cut fresh chives 5ml.
1 tsp. finely chopped onion 5 mi.
1 tsp. finely chopped green pepper 5ml.
1 tsp. finely chopped olives 5ml.
1 cup heavy cream Y4 liter
2 lomb or pork sausage casings, each
8 inches [20 em.] long, thoroughly
rinsed with cold water
2
Add to the eggs all of the ingredients except the cream and
the sausage casings. Beat in the cream.
Tie one end of each sausage casing very tightly with
string. Use a large funnel to fill the casings with the egg
mixture, being careful not to let air pockets form. Leaving
about 2 inches [5 em.] of the casing unfilled to allow for
expansion, tie off the ends. Bring a large pot of water to a
rolling boil and drop in the filled casings. Remove from the
heat and let the sausages stand in the cooking liquid for 30 to
45 minutes, occasionally stirring with a spoon (which avoids
punctures) so that the filling does not separate.
Have a pot of cold water ready, and when the sausages
are firm, remove them from the hot water and drop them into
the cold water. Let them stand for 30 minutes. Store in the
refrigerator; they will keep for a few days.
MEL MARSHALL
THE DELECTABLE EGG AND HOW TO COOK IT

Dot Heart Eggs
Any number of servings can be boiled at the same time, as
this Chinese way of boiling eggs enables them to be kept, if
necessary without refrigeration, for a day or two. In the trop-
ics, I have found it better to immerse them in fresh water and
100
keep them in the refrigerator as t hey become too salty with
keeping. They are eaten for breakfast, taken on picnics or
used for snacks, known as "dot hearts," or hunger appeasers.
The eggs are almost soft again after t his prolonged boiling.
To serve 12
12 eggs 12
1 Y2 tsp. salt 7 mi.
2 tsp. teo leaves 10 mi.
thinly pored peel of 1 tangerine
In a thick saucepan, boil the eggs in water for one hour.
Drain them, immerse them in cold water until cool, then tap
gently to crack the shells, but do not peel them. Return the
eggs to the saucepan with fresh water just to cover, bring to a
boil and add the salt, tea and tangerine peel. Simmer over
very low heat for two hours. Remove the saucepan from the
heat, but leave the eggs in the water. Serve hot or cold.
MARY SLATER
CARIBBEAN COOKING FOR PLEASURE
c __ _ ---J/
Gratin of Chopped Eggs
Oeufs au Gratin
To serve 4
7 eggs, 6 hard-boil ed and chopped, 1
lightly beaten
1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
1 garlic clove, crushed to a paste
salt and pepper
1 cup white sauce(recipe, page 165), cooled
2 tbsp. butter
Y4 cup dry bread crumbs
2 tbsp. olive oil
7
15 mi.
1
Y4 liter
30 mi.
50 mi.
30 mi.
Mix the chopped eggs with the parsley and garlic; season
with salt and pepper. Stir the beaten egg into the white
sauce, and mix the sauce with the chopped eggs.
Spoon the mixture into a buttered shallow ovenproof
dish. Dot the top with the butter, and sprinkle it with the
bread crumbs. Bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for
20 minutes, or until the mixture is firm but not dried out.
Before serving, sprinkle the top with the oil.
E. AURICOSTE DE LAZARQUE
CUISINE MESSINE
Baked Stuffed Eggs
Oeufs Gratines
To serve 4
8 eggs, hard-boiled 8
2 egg yolks, beaten 2
l cup fresh white bread crumbs Y4 liter
Y4 cup chopped mixed herbs 50 mi.
1 cup shredded Gruyere cheese Y4 liter
4 tbsp. butter, softened 60 mi.
l tbsp. heavy cream 15ml.
salt and pepper
Mix the beaten egg yolks with the bread crumbs in a small
bowl. Halve the hard-boiled eggs lengthwise while they are
still warm and place the hard-boiled yolks in the bowl with
the bread-crumb mixture. Add the herbs, cheese and 2 table-
spoons [30 ml.] of the butter, and mix well. Stir in the cream
to make a soft consistency. Season with salt and pepper.
Use halfofthe yolk mixture to stuffthe egg whites, and
spread the remaining mixture in the base of a buttered gra-
tin dish just big enough to hold the egg halves. Place the
stuffed eggs on top, dot with the remaining butter and cover
with foil. Bake in a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven for five
to six minutes. Remove the foil and return the eggs to the
oven for one minute to brown the tops.
6
2 tbsp.
Y2
1 tbsp.
2 cups
Y2 cup
%cup
Y2 cup
Y2 tsp.
Y2 cup
NINETIE LYON
LESOEUFS
Eggs Ponce de leon
To serve 4 to 6
eggs, hard-boiled
butter
onion, diced
flour
tomato juice
chopped celery
chopped green peppers
mushrooms
salt and pepper
Worcestershire sauce
white sauce(recipe, page 165)
cracker crumbs
6
30 mi.
Y2
15 mi.
Y2 liter
125ml.
50 mi.
125 mi.
2 mi.
125 mi.
Chop the whites of the eggs, and mash the yolks. Brown the
onion in 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of the butter, add the flour and
blend well. Put in the tomato juice, celery and peppers, and
cook slowly until done. Add the mushrooms, the seasoning
and the Worcestershire sauce. When this is all done, add the
white sauce, the egg yolks and the chopped egg whites. Place
in a shallow buttered casserole. Sprinkle with cracker
crumbs, dot with the remaining butter and bake in a pre-
heated 375 F. [190 C.] oven until brown-about 10 to 15
minutes. Serve hot.
LILLIE S. LUSTIG, S. CLAIRE SONDHEIM AND SARAH RENSEL (EDITORS)
THE SOUTHERN COOKBOOK OF FINE OLD RECIPES
Old-fashioned Egg Pie
Tourte d'Oeufs a l'Ancienne
To serve 4 to 6
6 eggs, hard-boiled and sliced 6
2 cups sliced, fresh mushrooms, sauteed in
3 tbsp. [ 45 mi.] of butter for 5 minutes
Y2 liter
salt and whi te pepper
1 cup white sauce(recipe, page 165) Y4 liter
l egg yolk, beaten
Crepe batter
Y4 cup flour SO mi.
salt
egg, beaten
Y2 cup milk or water 125 mi.
2 tbsp. butter, melted 30 mi.
rough puff pastry (recipe, page 166, but
double the quantities called for)
To make the crepes, put the flour in a mixing bowl with a
pinch of salt. Add the egg, the milk or water and finally, the
melted butter, whisking to blend thoroughly. Heat a lightly
greased 10-inch [25-cm. ] crepe pan or skillet and pour in half
of the crepe batter, swirling it around the base of the pan to
make a large crepe. Cook for about two minutes on each side
until golden brown, then make a second crepe with there-
maining batter.
Roll out the pastry in two rounds and use one to line a 10-
inch quiche pan. Place a crepe in the lined pan. Mix the eggs,
mushrooms, salt and pepper, and white sauce, and fill the pie
with this mixture. Cover with the second crepe, then with
the second round of pastry, sealing the edges well. Brush the
top with the egg yolk, score decoratively with a fork, and
bake in a preheated 425 F. [220 C.] oven until golden and
crusty, about 40 minutes. Serve bubbling hot.
EDOUARD M. NIGNON
LE LIVRE DE CUISINE DE L'OUEST-ECLAIR
101
HARD-BOI LED EGGS
Hard-boiled Eggs with Basil
and Parmesan Sauce
Oeufs Durs au Pistou
French pistou, like the Italian pesto sauce, must be made from
fresh basil. Dried basil will not give the authentic flavor.
To serve 4
4 eggs, hard-boiled 4
Y4 cup chopped fresh basil 50 mi.
Y2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 125 mi.
3 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 3
salt and pepper
7 to o!ive oil 105 to
10 tbsp.
150 mi.
Halve the eggs lengthwise and arrange them on a plate.
Crush the garlic with Y<l t easpoon [1 ml.] of t he salt in a
mort ar and add the basil, pounding unt il you have a smoot h
past e. Gradually add t he cheese and oil alternately until the
sauce has t he consistency of thick cream. Add pepper and
more salt t o t aste, spoon the sauce over the eggs and allow
them to marinat e for at least 30 minutes before serving.
8
1 cup
1
1 tbsp.
V3 cup
3 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
NINE'ITE LYON
LESOEUFS
Mushroom Baked Eggs
Oeufs au Gratin
To serve 4
eggs, hard-boiled
chopped fresh mushrooms
shallot, finely chopped
chopped fresh parsley
tomato sauce (recipe, page 166)
salt and pepper
butter, melted
dry bread crumbs
8
Y4 liter
15ml.
75 mi.
45 mi.
30 mi.
Halve the eggs lengthwise. Remove the yolks and mash
them wit h the mushrooms, shallot and par sley. Add t he t o-
mato sauce, salt and pepper, and 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of the
butter. Cook the mixture for a few minutes.
Arrange the egg whites in a gratin dish . Stuff them wit h
the cooked yolk mixt ure. Sprinkle t he tops with t he bread
crumbs, then with the remaining butter. Bake in a preheat -
ed 400 F. [200 C.] oven for about 15 minutes, or until the
eggs are golden on t op. Ser ve hot.
LA CUISINE LYONNAISE
102
Hard-boiled Eggs in Onion Sauce
Oeufs a la Provenc;ale
R ocambole is also known as giant garlic because of the size of
its stems, not its bulbs. I ts bulbs have brown skins and flesh
and are somewhat milder in taste than garlic.
To serve 4
8 eggs, hard-boiled and sliced 8
2 scal lions, chopped 2
2 shallots, chopped 2
3 tbsp. chopped rocambole, or substitute garlic 45 mi.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
1 tbsp. flour 15ml.
3 tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley 45 mi.
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
heavy cream 50 mi.
%cup oil 175 mi.
6 tbsp. strained Sevi lle orange juice 90 mi.
Melt t he butter in a heavy saucepan, stir in the flour, and
add the parsley, scallions, shallots and rocambole or garli c.
Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and stir in the cream
and oil. Cook over low heat, stirring, until the mixture forms
a smooth, thick sauce-about 15 minutes.
Correct t he seasoning, st ir in the orange juice, add the
sliced eggs and continue to cook until the eggs are heated
t hrough. Serve hot.
MARIN
LES DONS DE COMUS
Eggs in Onion Sauce
Oeufs a la Tripe
The name of this dish indicates its similarity in texture to
tripe and onions. To give the sauce extra body and color, stir
in two or three raw egg yolks and 1 tablespoon [15 ml. ] of
chopped fresh parsley just before the sliced eggs are added.
To serve 6
12 eggs, hard- boiled and sl iced into rounds 12
6 onions, thinly sliced 6
8 tbsp. butter 120 mi.
salt and pepper
1 tbsp. flour 15 mi.
1 cup light cream Y4 liter
In a saucepan, melt the butter, add t he onions, and season
them with salt and pepper. Cook over low heat until the
onions are soft and golden, but not browned-eight to 10
minutes. Sprinkle in the flour and pour in the cream. Turn
up the heat to bring t he sauce to a boil , then reduce t he heat
at once and cook, stirring, for 25 to 30 minutes. Add the
sliced eggs and heat them briefly in the sauce without allow-
ing the mixture to boil. Serve very hot.
JULES BRETEUIL
LE CUISINIER EUROPEEN
Hard-boiled Eggs with Potatoes
and Shallots
Oeufs Durs aux Pommes de Terre et aux Echalotes
To serve 4
5 eggs 5
4 medium-sized potatoes 4
3 shallots, finely chopped 3
7 tbsp. butter 100 mi.
solt and pepper
3 tbsp. wine vinegar 45 mi.
Boil the potatoes in their skins until just t ender. Hard-boil
the eggs. Plunge them into cold water, then shell them and
put them into hot water to keep warm.
Preheat the oven to 300 F. [150 C.]. Melt 2 tablespoons
[30 ml. ] of t he butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the
shallots, cover and cook gently until they are soft and gold-
en, about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, peel the potatoes and slice t hem Yz inch [1
em.] thick. Slice the eggs the same way. Arrange the egg and
potato slices alternately in a buttered, shallow ovenproof
serving dish. Cover the dish with foil, and keep the eggs and
potatoes warm in the oven.
When the shallots are done, sprinkle them over the eggs
and potatoes. Season with salt and pepper. In the same skil-
let, cook the remaining butter until it is nut brown, and pour
it over the egg mixture. Return the skillet to high heat, add
the vinegar and bring it to a boil. Pour it over t he eggs and
potatoes and serve at once.
MARTINE J OLLY
REUSSIR VOTRE CUISINE
Eggs Marie- Louise
Oeufs Marie-Louise
To serve 4
6 eggs, hard-boiled and sl iced 6
2 potatoes, boiled, peeled and thinly 2
sliced while still hot
Y2 celeriac, peeled, diced and steamed Y2
for 25 minutes until tender
2 cups white sauce ( recipe, page 165) Y2 liter
Y4 cup freshly shredded Gruyere cheese 50 mi.
2 tbsp. dry bread crumbs 30 mi.
Carefully mix the egg slices, potato slices, and celeriac into
the white sauce. Spoon the mixture into a gratin dish, sprin-
kle with the shredded cheese and bread crumbs, and bake in
a preheated 400 F. [200 C. ] oven for 20 minutes, or until
golden and bubbling.
6
4
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
1 cup
EDOUARD M. NIGNON
LE LIVRE DE CUISINE DE L'OUESTECLAIR
Egg Pie
Pate aux Oeufs
To serve 4
eggs, 5 hard-boiled, 1 beaten
medium-sized potatoes, boiled,
peeled and mashed
butter
heavy cream
sal t and pepper
grated nutmeg
chopped fresh parsley
white sauce (recipe, page 165)
6
4
30 mi.
50 mi.
30 mi.
Y4 liter
Shell the hard-boiled eggs and cut t hem into slices not too
thin. Mix the potatoes with the butter and cream; season
well with salt, pepper and a very little nutmeg.
Line the bottom of a buttered 1 Yz-quart [1 liz-liter] casse-
role with the potato mixture, then make a layer of sliced
eggs. Scatter over some parsley and cover with a little white
sauce. Continue these layers until the eggs are used up. Let
the last layer be a coating of sauce, and cover t he top with
mashed potatoes. Smooth this over carefully with a wetted
knife and mark a neat pattern on top with a fork or t he point
of a knife; brush over with the beaten egg and bake in a
preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for about 30 minutes, or
until the top is browned.
C. HERMAN SENN
HOW TO COOK EGGS AND OMELETS IN 300 DIFFERENT WAYS
103
HARD-BOILED EGGS
Hard-boiled Eggs
with a Green Sauce
Oeufs Durs a la Farce
Purslane, or portulaca, is a weed common in New England. It
is a thickly branched, spreading, fleshy plant with yellow-
green flowers . Its small, narrow leaves taste like spinach.
To serve 4
10 eggs, 8 hard-boiled, 2 beaten 10
Y2 lb. sorrel, chopped y4 kg.
Y2 lb. Swiss chord, green ports only, chopped %kg.
Y2 lb. young spinach, chopped y4 kg.
1 cup finely chopped purslane leaves
(optional)
% liter
2 tbsp. finely cut fresh chives 30 mi.
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30ml.
4 tbsp. butter 60ml.
salt
Y2 tsp. mixed spices 2 mi.
Melt the butter in a skillet, add the greens and herbs, season
with salt and spices, and cook over low heat, stirring occa-
sionally, until the greens are tender and their liquids have
been reabsorbed, about 10 to 15 minutes. Add the yolks of
four hard-boiled eggs and mix them into the greens, crush-
ing them with a wooden spoon. Off the heat, stir in the beat-
en eggs. Return this sauce to low heat and stir until it thick-
ens slightly. Chop or slice the four remaining hard-boiled
egg whites; halve or quarter the other four hard-boiled eggs.
Spread the sauce evenly on a warmed platter and arrange
the egg halves or quarters on it. Seatter the chopped or sliced
egg whites over the top. Serve hot.
NICOLAS DE BONNEFONS
LES DELICES DE LA CAMPAGNE
Gratin of Hard-boiled Eggs
in Creamed Sorrel
Gratin d'Oeufs Dur a la Creme d'Oseille
To serve 4 to 6
6 eggs, hard-boiled and halved 6
10 oz. sorrel 300 g.
salt and pepper
8 tbsp. butter 120 mi.
%cup fresh bread crumbs 175 mi.
1 cup heavy cream Y4 liter
If the sorrel is young and tender, cut it into fine shreds and
stew it gently, salted, in 3 tablespoons [45 ml.] of the butter.
104
If older, plunge the leaves first into boiling water and drain
them the moment the water returns to the boil. Then stew
them in 3 tablespoons ofbutter, stirring regularly, for about
20 minutes, or until the liquid has evaporated and the sorrel
has melted into a puree. Stir in the cream a little at a time,
permitting it to absorb the sorrel and thicken before adding
more; grind in pepper, and taste for salt.
While the sorrel is stewing, put the bread crumbs to cook
in the remaining 5 tablespoons [75 ml. ] of butter over low
heat, stirring or tossing until they are lightly golden.
Butter a gratin dish just large enough to hold the eggs.
Arrange the eggs, cut surfaces up, side by side. Spoon the hot
sauce over them, evenly masking all of the eggs. Sprinkle
the sauteed bread crumbs regularly over the entire surface,
and bake in a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven for about 15
minutes, or until the gratin is well heated through and the
surface is lightly browned.
8
2
1 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
2 cups
8 tbsp.
1 cup
Y2 cup
2
2 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
1 cup
RICHARD OLNEY
SIMPLE FRENCH FOOD
Stuffed Eggs in Wine Sauce
Oeufs Farcis a la Bourguignonne
To serve 4
eggs, hard-boiled, halved lengthwise,
the yolks separated from the whites
egg yol ks
chopped fresh parsley
chopped scallion
salt and pepper
mixed spices
grated nutmeg
fresh bread crumbs, soaked in Y2 cup
[ 125 mi.] heavy cream
butter, softened
Wine sauce
red wine
diced, leon cooked hom
small oni on, finely chopped
shallots, finely chopped
butter
flour
sto ck (recipe, page 164), cooked,
uncovered, until it is reduced by half
truffle, sliced
8
2
15 mi.
30 mi.
Y2 liter
120 mi.
125 mi.
2
30 mi.
15 mi.
% liter
To make the sauce, brown the ham, onion and shallots in
half of the butter in a saucepan. Add the wine and simmer
until the liquid is reduced by half. Melt the remaining butter
in another pan and stir in the flour to make a roux. Press the
reduced wine mixture through a sieve into the roux, stirring
to make a smooth sauce. Add the reduced stock. Simmer the
sauce over very low heat, removing the skin that forms on
the top, until it is lightly thickened-about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, pound the parsley and onion with the salt,
pepper, mixed spices and a very little nutmeg to form a
paste. Then pound in the hard-boiled and raw egg yolks, the
bread crumbs and butter. Force this paste through a sieve.
Stuff about half of the egg whites with the mixture,
mounding it up to give the whites the shape of whole eggs.
(Reserve the rest of the whites for another use.) Spread the
remaining stuffing in a buttered shallow gratin dish, and
arrange the stuffed eggs on top.
Place the dish of eggs in a preheated 325 F. [170 C.]
oven for about 15 minutes to brown the eggs lightly without
letting them dry out. Add the truffie to the sauce and serve it
very hot to accompany the dish of eggs.
4
GASTON DERYS
LES PLATS AU VIN
Hard-boiled Eggs Deep-fried in
Minced Pork Coating
Yuk Yerng Chung-Dahn
To serve 4
eggs, hard-boiled
1 Y2 cups pork, very finely chopped
Y2 tsp. salt
1 tbsp. soy sauce
2 tsp. ri ce wine or dry sherry
2 scallions, finely chopped
1 tbsp. cornstarch
vegetable oil for deep frying
head lettuce, shredded
4
375 mi.
2ml.
15 mi.
10 mi.
2
15ml.
Add the salt, soy sauce, rice wine or sherry, scallions and
cornstarch to the pork. Mash and stir the mixture to a very
smooth consistency.
Coat each egg with a quarter of the pork mixture, encas-
ing the egg evenly. Deep fry the eggs in hot oil until golden
brown, five to 10 minutes.
Drain, then slice each egg in halflengthwise and arrange
the halved eggs on a bed of shredded lettuce.
JOHN D. KEYS
FOOD FOR THE EMPEROR
Upside-down Eggs
KaiKuam
Fish sauce (nuoc mam is one variety) is a thin brownish sauce
produced by fermentation of salted fresh fish. It is extremely
salty and smells strongly of fish, but when used in modera-
tion, provides a surprisingly subtle flavor. It is obtainable
bottled, as "fish's gravy," at Oriental grocery stores. If duck
eggs are not available, the same number ofj umbo-sized chick-
en eggs may be substituted.
In Laos caviar made from the eggs of the giant Mekong
River catfish (Pangasianodon gigas) was traditionally used
for this dish. But this species has become extremely rare,
and even in Laos it would now be normal to substitute an-
other cured fish roe (preferably, but not necessarily, from a
fresh-water fish).
To serve 5
10 eggs, hard-boiled and cut in half
lengthwise
10
3 duck eggs, beaten 3
Y2 cup ground lean pork 125 mi.
2 garlic bulbs, unpeeled 2
5 shallots, unpeeled 5
2 tbsp. caviar or other cured fish roe 30ml.
1 to 2 tsp. fish sauce (optional) 5to10ml.
2 tsp. ground black pepper 10 mi.
2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh coriander leaves 30 mi.
2 tbsp. lard 30 mi.
Sear the ground pork in an ungreased pan until it gives off a
good aroma (about two minutes).
Remove the yolks from the hard-boiled eggs. Cook the
garlic and shallots in the embers from a charcoal fire, or
bake them in a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven for 20 min-
utes, until they are soft. Then peel them and pound them in a
mortar with the hard-boiled egg yolks, pork and caviar.
Taste. If the taste is not strong enough, add a little fish
sauce. Then add half of the pepper and half of the coriander.
Mix thoroughly and stuff the mixture into the whites of the
hard-boiled eggs. Put the two halves of the eggs together.
Put the lard in a wok or large frying pan and set it on high
heat. When the lard is hot, dip the stuffed eggs in the beaten
duck eggs and fry them until they are golden.
Arrange the fried stuffed eggs on a serving dish, garnish
them with the remaining black pepper and coriander leaves
and serve them, either hot or lukewarm.
PHIA SING
TRADITIONAL RECIPES OF LAOS
105
HARD-BOILED EGGS /BAKED EGGS
Egg Croquettes with Bacon
To serve 2
5 eggs, 4 eggs hard-boiled and
chopped, 1 egg beaten
5
Y2 cup chopped cooked ham or fried bacon 125 mi.
(optional)
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
4 tbsp. flour 60 mi.
2IJ cup milk 150 mi.
salt and pepper
Y4 cup dry breod crumbs 50 mi.
fat for deep frying
Melt the butter in a saucepan, add 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of
the flour , then add the milk by degrees and cook for five to 10
minutes, or until the sauce is thick. Add the chopped eggs
and t he ham or bacon if liked. Season to taste.
Let the mixture cool, and form it into small rolls. Flour,
egg and crumb these, and deep fry t hem in hot fat for two
minutes, or until the croquettes are golden brown. Serve
wit h mixed vegetables.
6
Y2 cup
2 tbsp.
Y4 cup
1 cup
1 tsp.
Y2 cup
SHIRLEY M. HANSON (EDITOR)
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Creamed Eggs with Shrimp
Huevos de Montevideo
To serve 6
hard-boiled eggs, chopped
shelled, deveined, cooked shrimp
butter, melted
dry mustard
cream
chopped fresh parsley
salt and pepper
shredded mozzarella cheese
6
125 mi.
30 mi.
50 mi.
Y4 liter
5 mi.
125 mi.
Mix the butter with the shrimp, mustard, cream, parsley,
and salt and pepper to taste. Place the chopped eggs in a
buttered ovenproof dish and pour the butter-shrimp mixture
over them. Sprinkle the top with the shredded cheese. Bake
in a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven for 10 minutes, or until
the cheese starts to brown. Serve immediately.
106
NURI FONSECA
LATINOAMERICA EN SU COCINA
A Fricassy of Eggs:
Lady Powis's Receipt
This recipe is from a book, subtitled "Secrets of a Seventeenth-
century Housewife," that was recently reissued in a compila-
tion by Madeleine Masson.
To serve 6
6 eggs, hard-boiled and thinly sliced 6
6 egg yolks 6
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
2IJ cup dry red or white wine 150 mi.
1 salt anchovy, filleted, soaked in water 1
for 30 minutes, drained, patted dry
and chopped
1 tsp. fines herbes 5 mi.
1 tsp. grated onion 5 mi.
1 tsp. freshly grated lemon peel 5 mi.
grated nutmeg
Put the sliced eggs into a frying pan with the butter and,
when they are hot, pour off t he butter, and put to them claret
or white wine which you like best, all but 1 tablespoon [15
ml.], with the anchovy, herbs, onion and lemon peel. Let all
boil up, then have in readiness the egg yolks well beaten
with 1 tablespoon of wine and some nutmeg, put into the pan
and cook a little to thicken and serve it up.
REBECCA PRICE
THE COMPLEAT COOK
~ k e d ~ g g s
Eggs on Toast
The author of this 1923 recipe suggests that the dish was often
called "ox eyes" -presumably because of its appearance.
To serve 4
8 eggs 8
8 slices white or brown bread, toasted 8
butter
salt and pepper
Y2 cup heavy cream 125 mi.
Stamp out a round from each slice of toast, and cut out the
centers of the rounds with a smaller cutter so as to form rings
of toast. Spread a little fresh butter over the rings, and place
t hem on a well-buttered baking dish. Break an egg carefully
into each ring of toast, season with a little salt and pepper,
and pour a spoonful of cream around each egg. Bake in a
preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for about 10 minutes, or
until the whites begin to set. Great care must be taken that
the eggs do not get overcooked and, above all , that the yolks
are not disturbed during the process of cooking. Send the
dish to the table as hot as possible.
C. HERMANN SENN
BREAKFAST DISHES AND SA VOURIES
Eggs with Shrimp
Les Oeufs Meulemeester
To cook the shrimp required in this recipe, simmer Y2 lb. [1,4
kg.] of fresh shrimp in salted water for five minutes. Drain the
shrimp and peel them.
This recipe from Bruges, Belgium, is several centuries
old and is much appreciated in Holland and Flanders.
6
5 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
1 tsp.
1 cup
To serve 4
eggs
cooked shrimp
butter, 1 tbsp. [15 mi.] cut into small
pieces
Dijon mustard
chopped mixed fresh parsley and
chervil
salt and pepper
heavy cream
shredded Gruyere cheese
6
125 g.
75 mi.
15 mi.
5 mi.
Y4 li ter
125 mi.
Immerse the eggs in boiling water, boil them for seven min-
utes and plunge them into cold water. Peel immediately.
Melt 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of t he butter in a saucepan
over low heat, and quickly slice the warm eggs into the but-
ter. Add the shrimp, mustard, parsley and chervil, and sea-
son with salt and pepper. Add the cream, and slide the pan
back and forth rapidly until all of the ingredients are thor-
oughly combined.
Pour this mixture into a buttered gratin dish. Sprinkle
the surface with t he shredded Gruyere cheese and dot with
the cut-up pieces of butter. Set under the broiler or in a
preheated 4 75 F. [240 C.] oven for five minutes, or until the
top is browned and bubbling. Serve immediately.
PAUL BOUILLARD
LA CUISINE AU COIN DU FEU
Slovakian-Style Eggs
Eier auf Slowakische Art
To serve 4
8 eggs, the yolks separated from t he
whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
8 slices whi te bread, toasted
1 Y4 cups mi lk
salt and pepper
8
8
300 mi.
Soak the toast in the milk for one minute, then arrange the
slices side by side in a large, shallow, buttered baking dish.
Season the egg whites with salt and spread them on the
toast. With a teaspoon, make a depression over the center of
each slice of toast; place a yolk in each depression. Sprinkle
the yolks with salt and pepper. Bake in a preheated 350 F.
[180 C. ] oven for about 15 minutes, or until t he egg yolks
are set. Serve immediately.
6
6
4 tbsp.
1 cup
Y2 cup
Y4 tsp.
ELEKMAGYAR
KOCHBUCH FOR FEINSCHMECKER
Egg Yolks on Toast
Rossi d'Uvo al Canape
To serve 6
egg yolks
slices firm-textured white bread, cut
1 inch [2Y2 em.] t hick, and the crusts
removed
butter
white sauce (recipe, page 165)
f reshly grated Parmesan cheese
ground ci nnamon or grated nutmeg
sal t
6
6
60 mi.
Y4 liter
125 mi.
1 mi.
Make a hollow in the center of each slice of bread, being
careful not to cut all of the way t hrough. Fry the bread cases
in the butter until they are golden. Place them in an oven-
proof serving dish, and put an egg yolk into each hollow.
Heat the sauce gently and stir in the cheese, cinnamon or
nutmeg, and a pinch of salt. Cool the sauce slightly, and pour
it over the bread and yolks.
Bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 15 minutes,
without allowing the yolks to become hard. Serve hot.
PELLEGRINO ARTUS!
LA SCIENZA IN CUCINA E L'ARTE 01 MANGIAR BENE
107
BAKED EGGS
Baked Eggs in Curds
To serve 6
6 eggs 6
2 cups cottage or curd cheese, beaten well Y2 liter
2 tbsp. butter, melted 30 mi.
1 tsp. cayenne pepper 5 mi.
1 tsp. ground cumin 5 mi.
Y4 tsp. ground turmeric 1 mi.
salt and pepper
fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped
Pour equal amounts of melted butter into six individual
ovenproof bowls. To the beaten cheese curds, add the cay-
enne pepper , cumin, turmeric, and salt and pepper. Beat
unt il thoroughly blended. Spoon the cheese into the individ-
ual bowls. Break one egg into each bowl and bake in a pre-
heated 450 F. [230 C.] oven for about 10 minutes, or until
t he eggs are well set. Sprinkle with the coriander leaves and
serve immediately.
PREMILA LAL
THE EGG & CHEESE COOK-BOOK
Cantal Eggs
Oeufs a la Cantalienne
To serve 4
8 eggs, the yolks separated from the
whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
8
%cup shredded Cantal cheese 125 mi.
salt and pepper
3 tbsp. heavy cream 45 mi.
Butter a round, fairly deep gratin dish. Salt and lightly pep-
per the egg whites, and spread them in the dish. Make eight
dents in the whites, with t he back of a spoon, and put a yolk
in each dent. Cover the yolks with cream, then sprinkle the
whole surface with the cheese. Bake in a preheated 350 F.
[180 C.] oven for 10 minutes.
EUGENIE BRAZIER
LES SECRETS DE LA MERE BRAZIER
108
4
%cup
4 tbsp.
Eggs with Cream in Ramekins
Oeufs a la Creme en Cocotte
To serve 4
eggs
heavy cream
butter, cut into small pieces
salt and pepper
4
50 mi.
60 mi.
Heat four ramekin dishes in a 350 F. [180 C.] oven for five
minutes. Bring the cream to a boil and pour a tablespoon [15
ml.] of it into each ramekin. Break an egg into each dish and
season with salt and pepper. Top each egg with 1 t ablespoon
of the cut-up butter.
Set the ramekins in a roasting pan and pour in enough
hot water to come halfway up the sides. Cook the eggs on top
of t he stove or in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 10
minutes, or until the whites of the eggs are set and the yolks
are still soft.
MARIE BISSON
LA CUISINE NORMANDE
Eggs Baked with Cheese
Oeufs Gratines au Fromage
Any firm mild-flavored cheese may be used to prepare this
dish: Gruyere, Emmentaler, Edam, Cheddar, Muenster or
Monterey Jack.
To serve 2
4 eggs 4
Y4 lb. cheese, grated or shredded 125 g.
2 medi um-sized onions, finely chopped 2
5 tbsp. butter 75 mi.
4 slices firm- textured white bread, cut 4
into 3- to 4-inch [8- to l 0-cm.] rounds
and fried in butter
1 cup beef stock (recipe, page 164) Y4 liter
f reshly ground pepper
Fry the onions in 2 tablespoons [30 ml. ] of t he butter until
they are soft and transparent, about 15 minutes. Fill the
base of a deep round dish with the onions and place the fried
bread croutons on top. Pour in enough stock to nearly cover
the bread. Break an egg onto each crouton and sprinkle the
eggs with the cheese. Season with pepper. Melt the remain-
ing butter and pour it over t he eggs. Place the dish in a
preheated 425 F. [220 C.] oven, or under a hot broiler, until
the cheese melts and the eggs are just set (about seven min-
utes). Serve hot.
PROSPER MONTAGNE AND A. GOTTSCHALK
MONMENU
6
1 Y2 cups
6 or 7
%cup
4 tbsp.
Swiss Eggs in a Shell
To serve 4 to 6
eggs
shredded Emmentoler cheese
thin slices fresh white bread, buttered
on both sides
butter, softened
salt and pepper
cream
grated Parmesan cheese
6
375 mi.
6 or 7
175 mi.
60 mi.
To form a shell, fit the bread slices into a 9-inch [23-cm. ] pie
plate like a pinwheel, with the slices overlapping and radiat-
ing from the center so t hat their outer corners project in
points beyond t he rim. Fill in t he center of the shell with the
last slice. Set the shell in a preheated 475 F. [250 C.] oven
for fi ve minutes to toast it lightly. Remove the shell , then
reduce the oven heat to 350 F. [180 C. ].
Sprinkle the shell with t he Emmentaler cheese. Break
the eggs into the shell over the cheese. Sprinkle with salt
and pepper to taste. Pour the cream over the eggs. Sprinkle
the top with the Parmesan. Bake until the eggs are set,
about 10 minutes.
RUTH CONRAD BATEMAN
I LOVE TO COOK BOOK
Black Beans and Eggs
To serve 6
6 eggs
1 Y2 cups dried block beans, soaked in water
overnight and drained
salt and pepper
1 cup finely chopped onions
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
boy leaf
basil
1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese
2 tbsp. dry sherry
6
375 mi.
Y4 liter
2
1 mi.
Y4 liter
30 mi.
Cover the beans with water, bring to a boil, boil for 10 min-
utes, cover and simmer for two hours or more, until tender.
Now add salt, pepper, the onions, garlic, bay leaf and basil.
Remove the beans from the heat and let them stand at
room temperature for about three hours. Or cool the beans
and r efrigerate them overnight.
Warm up the beans and mash them well with a fork. If
the mixture does not mash easily, cook it until it does. Then
stir in the cheese, reduce t he heat and stir again until t he
cheese melts. Add the sherry.
Distribute the bean mixture among six buttered rame-
kins. Make a hollow in the center of each filled ra:nlekin and
slide an egg into each hollow. Bake in a preheated 350 F.
[180 C.] oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until the eggs are firm.
CAROL COLLVER THURBER
THE CALYPSO COOKBOOK
Eggs Baked with
Savoy Cabbage and Caraway
If the crinkly-leaved Savoy cabbage is not available, a green
cabbage may be substituted.
In the summer, use green beans, scallions and tomatoes
for a lighter texture, and flavor them with fennel.
8
1 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
1
4
1 cup
To serve 4
eggs
Savoy cabbage, tough outer leaves
discorded, halved, cored and
shredded
caraway seeds
olive oi l
onion, thinly sliced
garlic clove, finely chopped
medium-sized ripe tomatoes, peeled
and chopped
sour cream
8
15 mi.
30 mi.
4
Y4 liter
Put the cabbage into a saucepan with the oil, onion, garlic,
tomatoes and half of t he caraway seeds. Cover the pan and
set it over medium heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasional-
ly. Take the pan from the heat, cool the cabbage a little and
stir in half of t he sour cream.
Put the cabbage into a large, shallow ovenproof dish and
make eight indentat ions in it. Break the eggs into these. Mix
the remaining sour cream and caraway seeds together and
spoon t hem over the eggs, covering the yolks if possible.
Cover the dish completely with buttered or oiled foi l and
put it into a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven for 20 minutes,
or until the egg whites are set, but the yolks still liquid.
GAIL DUFF
GAIL DUFF'S VEGETARIAN COOKBOOK
109
BAKED EGGS
6
8 to 10
2 tbsp.
Baked Eggs with Carrots
Oeufs ala Mont-Bry
To serve 6
eggs
medium-sized carrots, julienned
butter
salt and pepper
sugar (optional)
heavy cream
6
8 to 10
30 mi.
125 mi.
Cook the carrots with the butter until they are soft but not
brown, about 15 minutes, keeping the heat low and adding a
few drops of water occasionally. Add seasoning to taste and,
if desired, a very little sugar.
' When the carrots are cooked, butter six individual oven-
proof dishes and divide the carrots among them. Break an
egg into each dish and cover it with cream. Stand t he dishes
in a shallow baking pan partly filled with hot water. Put
them into a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven and bake for
about 10 minutes, or until the whites are firm and the yolks
are still soft. Season again lightly after removing from the
oven, and serve the eggs hot.
CAROLINE MIQUEL
LES BONNES RECETI'ES DE TANTE CAROLINE
Eggs Glaz'd with Cucumbers
Despite its name, the cookbook from which this recipe is an-
thologized was published in 1733.
Eggs may be prepared in t he same way with chicory,
lettuce, celery, asparagus tips, peas or artichoke bottoms.
To serve 4 or 8
8 eggs 8
6 small cucumbers, peeled, quartered
lengthwise, seeded and sliced
6
salt and pepper
2 onions, sliced 2
Y2 cup vinegar 125 mi.
Y2 cup water 125 mi.
3 tbsp. butter 45 mi.
------------------------------------------
1 tbsp. fl our 15 mi.
1 cup veal. or chicken stock( recipe, page 164) Y4 liter
grated nutmeg
Marinate t he cucumbers with salt , pepper, t he onions, vin-
egar and water for about two hours. Drain the cucumbers
thoroughly and dry them in a cloth. Put them in a pan with 2
110
tablespoons [30 ml.] of the butter, and fry them until they
are lightly colored. Sprinkle them with the flour and wet
them with the stock. Simmer them for five minutes, skim the
sauce and taste for seasoning.
Arrange this ragout in a large shallow ovenproof dish.
Break your eggs at equal distances among the cucumbers,
and season the top of each egg with a little salt and nutmeg.
Place t he dish in a preheated 425 F. [220 C.] oven for 10
minutes, or until t he eggs are just set. When your eggs are
done and not hard, serve hot.
6
y4 lb.
2 cups
2
2 cups
Y4 tsp.
1 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
VINCENT DE LA CHAPELLE
THE MODERN COOK
Eggs in Cases with Mushrooms
To serve 6
eggs
fresh mushrooms, trimmed, trimmings
reserved
mil k
egg yol ks, lightly beaten
fresh bread crumbs
salt and pepper
ground allspice
butter
flour
toasted dry bread crumbs
6
125 g.
Y2 li ter
2
Y2 liter
1 mi.
15 mi.
15 mi.
45 mi.
Stew the mushrooms in 1 cup [!f.! liter] of the milk for about
15 minutes over low heat. Drain them, reserving the milk,
and chop them up small.
Add the egg yolks to the milk and cook, stirring, over low
heat until the mixture thickens without coming to a boil.
Stir in the chopped mushrooms and the fresh bread crumbs
to make a mixture with the consistency of a stuffing. Season
with salt and allspice.
Line six well-buttered china ramekins with this mixture,
leaving a hollow in the center of each, into which break a
fresh egg. Set the dishes in a shallow pan with hot water
1 inch [ ~ em.] deep around them and bake them in a pre-
heated 350 F. [180 C. ] oven for 10 minutes, or until the
whites of the eggs are set.
For the sauce, simmer the mushroom trimmings in the
remaining milk for 20 minutes. Season with a pinch each of
salt and pepper . Strain the mixture. Work the butter and
flour together, and whisk it into the broth. Cook until the
sauce thickens. Coat the top of each egg with the sauce, dust
with toasted bread crumbs and serve.
A. KENNEY HERBERT
FIITY BREAKFASTS
8
3 tbsp.
Maria Luigia's Eggs with Cheese
Uova al Formaggio alla Maria Luigia
To serve 4
eggs
heavy cream
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
small onion, very finely chopped
pepper
8
50 mi.
45 mi.
Put the cream into a large shallow ovenproof dish, break the
eggs into the cream, sprinkle them with the cheese and last-
ly, add the onion. Bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.) oven
for about 10 minutes, or until the whites are set and the
yolks still soft. Season with pepper to taste, and serve.
FERRUCCIO BOTTI
GASTRONOMIA PARMENSE OSSIA PARMA CAPITALE DEI BUONGUSTAI
Butcher's Wife Eggs
Oeufs sur le Plat a la Bouchere
To serve 6
6 eggs 6
y4 lb. leon beef, finely chopped 125 g.
salt and pepper
4 tbsp. butter, melted 60 mi.
YJ cup tomato sauce (recipe, page 166) 75 mi.
Butter six individual shallow ovenproof egg dishes. Season
the meat with salt and pepper, and make a ring of meat in
the base of each dish. Break an egg into each ring. Spoon a
little melted butter on top of each yolk, then bake in a pre-
heat ed 450 F. [230 C.) oven for 10 minutes, or until the
whites are cooked but the yolks still soft. Salt and pepper the
eggs, and pour a little tomato sauce around each one.
PROSPER MONTAGNE AND A. GOTTSCHALK
MONMENU
Baked Eggs in a Crust with Watercress
To serve 4
4 Iorge eggs 4
4 bread cases 4
2 Iorge bunches watercress, trimmed 2
12 tbsp. unsalted butter 180 mi.
salt and pepper
3 Iorge scal lions 3
2 tbsp. flour 30 mi.
1 Y2 cups mi lk 375 mi.
grated nutmeg
Melt 4 tablespoons [60 ml.) of the butter and, using a pastry
brush, coat t he bread cases inside and out with t he butter.
Place the cases on a baking sheet and bake them for 10
minutes in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.) oven.
Bring a small saucepan of salted water to a boil. Select 16
handsome watercress sprigs and set them aside for garnish.
Throw the remaining watercress and the scallions into the
water and blanch for one minute. Drain and refresh them
under cold water. Wrap the greens in an old kitchen towel
and squeeze them very hard unti l they ar e dry. Puree in a
food processor or blender and set aside.
Melt 2 tablespoons [30 ml.) of butter in a small saucepan.
Stir in the flour and whisk over low heat for four minutes.
Slowly stir in 1 cup [14 liter) of the milk, season with salt,
pepper and nutmeg, t hen cook over low heat for 15 minutes.
Then add the watercress-and-scallion puree and let the
sauce simmer another 10 minutes. It should be very thick.
Use two thirds of this sauce to coat t he interiors of the
bread cases. Break an egg into each hollow and return t he
cases to the oven for 10 to 12 minutes. (The whites ofthe eggs
should set; the yolks should remain liquid.)
Place the saucepan containing the remaining watercress
sauce over low heat. Whisk in the remaining milk and bring
to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat and whisk in the
remaining butter. Taste for seasoning.
Pour the sauce onto four warm dinner plates. Set a baked
egg case in the middle of each prepared plate and garnish the
plates with the reserved sprigs of watercress.
JUDITH OLNEY
COMFORTING FOOD
111
BAKED EGGS
Tom a toes Stuffed with Eggs
Paradais Rosii Umplute cu Oua
To serve 4
4 small eggs 4
4 Iorge ripe tomatoes 4
salt
6 tbsp. butter, melted 90 mi.
freshly ground block pepper
lf3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 75 mi.
1 tbsp. fi nely cut fresh fennel leaves 15 mi.
1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 15 mi.
Y4 cup heavy or sour cream (optional) 50 mi.
Slice off the stem ends of the tomatoes, reserving these lids,
and scoop out the pulp, seeds and ribs. Sprinkle the insides
with salt, and invert the tomatoes in a colander to drain for
10 to 15 minutes.
Arrange the tomatoes in a well-buttered baking dish just
large enough to hold them upright. Pour a little melted but-
ter into each tomato case. Sprinkle with pepper. Break each
egg into a saucer and slide it into a tomato case. Sprinkle the
top with the cheese, par sley and fennel. Pour in the rest of
the butter and replace t he cut-off tomato lids.
Bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for about 20
minutes; the cheese should bubble up to the top of the toma-
toes, and the skins should be almost ready to burst. Serve the
tomatoes sprinkled with the baking-dish juices and herbs,
and the cream, if desired.
ANISOARA STAN
THE ROMANIAN COOKBOOK
Bacon and Eggs in a Mug
To serve 4
8 eggs, 4 beaten 8
shredded Gruyere cheese 125 mi.
salt and pepper
crisp, crumbled bacon 125 mi.
1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 15 mi.
chopped, sauteed fresh mushrooms 125 mi.
4 tbsp. heavy cream 60 mi.
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
Use 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the butter to grease the interi-
ors of four medium-sized ovenproof coffee mugs, and sprin-
kle t he bottoms and sides of the mugs with some of the grated
cheese. Season the beaten eggs and divide them among the
112
mugs. Mix the bacon, parsley and mushrooms together and
spoon this mixture in a neat layer over the beaten eggs.
Break an egg into each mug, season it, and pour a t able-
spoon [15 ml.] of cream over each egg yolk. Cover the eggs
with the remaining cheese and place a morsel of the remain-
ing butter on top.
Put the mugs in a pan containing 1'12 inches [ 4 em.] of hot
water and cook the eggs, loosely covered with foil , either
over low heat or in a preheated 300 F. [150 C. ] oven for 10 to
12 minutes, or until the whites of the eggs are set. The yolks
should r emain soft. At no time should the water boil. Place
the mugs under the broiler for a brief moment so the cheese
can begin to brown.
JUDITH OLNEY
COMFORTING FOOD
Baked Eggs, Navarre-Style
H uevos al Plato a la Navarra
Chorizo is a spicy pork sausage flavored with paprika and
garlic and is sold at Mexican or Latin American food stores.
This recipe calls for shallow individual earthenware
dishes of the kind used throughout Spain for H u.evos alP lato.
To serve 4
8 eggs 8
4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped 4
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
salt and pepper
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
8 slices chorizo 8
Y4 cup shredded Gruyere cheese 50 mi.
Cook the tomatoes in the butter for 15 minutes, or until they
form a thick puree. Season them with salt and pepper and
add the parsley.
Butter four individual baking dishes and divide the to-
mato sauce among them. Break two eggs into each dish and
place a slice of the chorizo beside each yolk. Sprinkle the
cheese over the eggs.
Bake them in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 15 to
20 minutes. The yolk should remain soft.
ANA-MARIA CALERA
365 RECETAS DE COCINA VASCA
Grilled Eggs with Lamb
To make the coconut milk called for in this recipe,pour about
Va cup [75 ml.] of boiling water over 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of
freshly grated coconut. After five minutes, strain through a
cloth, pressing to extract all of the milk.
6
21b.
8 oz.
4
10
6
8
2
%-inch
1 tbsp.
l-inch
To serve 6
eggs
lean boneless lamb, cubed
cottage cheese
salt
ghee
large onions, thinly sl iced and 1 slice
coarsely chopped
coconut milk
ground saffron, dissolved in 1 tbsp.
[15 mi.] milk
Ginger paste
slice fresh ginger root, peeled
onion, finely chopped
6
1 kg.
%kg.
4
50 mi.
1 mi.
6-mm.
garlic cloves, crushed to a paste 10
Masala
dri ed red chilies, stemmed and 6
seeded
whole cardamoms, the pods removed 8
and discarded
peppercorns 2
cumi n seeds 1 mi.
slice turmeric root (or substitute Y2 tsp. 6-mm.
[2 mi.] ground turmeric)
coriander seeds 15 mi.
stick cinnamon 2Y2-cm.
onion, chopped
Prepare the ginger paste and mas ala by pounding the ingre-
dients for each in a mortar or putting them through a food
grinder or processor. Set aside in separate bowls.
Blend the lamb with the cheese and a little salt. Set aside
for one hour. Heat a little ghee and in it fry the coarsely
chopped onions for 10 minutes, or until light brown. Add the
ginger paste and fry until dark brown. Add the lamb mixture
and cook over medium heat until the meat is almost tender,
about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat.
In another pan, heat some more ghee and fry the onion
slices lightly, then add the mas ala. When the slices are gold-
en brown, add the lamb mixture and cook until tender. Pour
in the saffron and mix well. Add salt to taste and break the
eggs over the lamb. Place under the broiler and cook until
the eggs set. Serve immediately.
PREMILALAL
THE EGG & CHEESE COOK-BOOK
Eggs with Calf's Brains
Oeufs en Cocotte Sagan
To serve 6
6 eggs 6
2 calf's brains 2
ice water
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 30 mi.
1 cup chicken stock (recipe, page 164) % liter
Y2 cup heavy cream 125 mi.
4 tbsp. butter, melted 60 mi.
sal t and freshly cracked black pepper
Y4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 50 mi.
Prepare the brains by soaking them in ice water to cover,
mixed with the lemon juice, for about 30 minutes. Drain
them and remove all of the membranes, using a small paring
knife. Pat them dry with a paper towel.
Put the brains in a little pan and cover them with the
stock. Simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Drain them,
cool slightly, and chill them for a few minutes in the refrig-
erator. Cut them into '12-inch [1-cm.] cubes, mix them with
half of the cream and half of the melted butter, and season
with salt and pepper.
Have ready six ramekins or cocottes and a shallow pan of
hot water about '12 inch [1 em.] deep. Fill each ramekin half-
way with the brains and break one egg on top. Sprinkle with
a little salt and pepper. Spoon the remaining cream over the
eggs and sprinkle with the cheese and the remaining butter.
Set the ramekins in the pan of hot water and bake for six
minutes in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven. Remove from
the oven. Place each hot ramekin on a folded napkin on a
plate. Serve at once.
DIONE LUCAS AND MARION GORMAN
THE DIONE LUCAS BOOK OF FRENCH COOKING
11 3
BAKED EGGS I SCRAMBLED EGGS
Egg Mold with Remoulade Sauce
Pain d'Oeufs, Sauce Remoulade
This dish can be prepared in advance, since it is eaten cold.
All that remains to be done just before serving the meal is to
make the sauce.
6 to 8
1 tbsp.
2
2;3 cup
1 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
2 tsp.
5
1 or 2
Y2 tsp.
To serve 4
eggs
butter, melted
salt
Remoulade sauce
egg yolks
salt
olive oi l
fresh lemon juice
shallot, finely chopped
chopped fresh parsley
chopped fresh chervil
chopped fresh tarragon
capers, rinsed and chopped
oil-packed flat anchovy fi llets, rinsed,
patted dry and.fi nely chopped
white pepper
Dij on mustard
6 to 8
15 mi.
2
150 mi.
15 mi.
15 mi.
10 mi.
5
1 or 2
2 mi.
Butter a straight-sided, small (about 2-cup [lh-liter]) mold.
To do this more easily, pour a little melted butter into the
bottom of the mold and allow it to cool, then use a knife to
spread additional softened butter on the sides of the mold.
Break enough eggs into the mold to fill it almost to the rim,
though not more than eight eggs. Take care to prevent the
yolks from breaking. Sprinkle each egg with a little salt.
When the mold is full, place it in a pan of hot water and bake
it in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 30 minutes, or
until the mass of eggs has set completely. Let the mold cool
for 15 minutes, then turn the eggs out onto a small dish,
cover with an inverted bowl and refrigerate.
Fifteen minutes before serving, prepare the sauce. Place
the egg yolks in a mortar with a pinch of salt, and stir with a
pestle, turning always in the same direction. Pour in the
olive oil, drop by drop, until the sauce is quite thick and firm
and comes away from the sides of the mortar. Continuing to
stir, add a few drops of lemon juice. Finish the sauce by
stirring in the shallot, herbs, capers and anchovies, white
pepper, and mustard. To serve, cover the egg mold with a
thick layer of the sauce.
114
MME. JEANNE SA VARIN (EDITOR)
LA CUISINE DES FAMILLES
;.
4
7 tbsp.
Eggs on a Savory Base
Oeufs au Gratin
To serve 4
eggs
butter
1 Y2 cups fresh bread crumbs
1 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
6
salt anchovy, filleted, soaked in water
for 30 mi nutes, drained, patted dry
and chopped
chopped fresh parsley
finely cut fresh chives
shallot, finely chopped
egg yolks, beaten
salt and pepper
4
105 mi.
375 mi.
15ml.
15ml.
6
Melt 4 tablespoons [60 ml. ] of the butt er in a skillet, add the
bread crumbs, and cook, stirring, until the butter is ab-
sorbed. Off the heat, stir in the anchovy, parsley, chives,
shallot and egg yolks. Spread the mixture in a buttered heat-
proof gratin dish. Cook over low heat until the mixture be-
gins to set, about five minutes, then break the whole eggs on
top. Season with salt and pepper. Cook in the hot oven for a
few minutes, or slide the dish under a hot broiler until the
whites set, then serve.
NOUVEAU MANUEL DE LA CUISINIERE BOURGEOISE ET ECONOMIQUE
8
24
Eggs Baked with Oysters Normandy
Oeufs au Plat ala Normande
To serve 4
eggs
live oysters, shucked and thei r liquor
reserved
8
24
Y2 cup heavy cream 125 mi.
sal t and pepper
Put 2 tablespoons [30 ml. ] of cream with salt and pepper to
taste into each of four small ovenproof dishes. Put six oysters
in each dish and pour a bit of their liquor over them.
Break the eggs over the oysters-two to each dish-and
bake them in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 10 min-
utes, or until the whites are set, but the yolks are still liquid.
Serve the eggs in their baking dishes.
MARIE BISSON
LA CUISINE NORMANDE
8
16 tbsp.
Scrambled 'Eggs
Francis Picabia's Eggs
Oeufs Francis Picabia
To serve 4
eggs, mixed well with a fork
salt
butter {Y2 lb. [ Y4 kg.]), cut into
small pieces
8
240 mi.
Add salt, but no pepper, to the eggs. Pour them into a sauce-
pan and put it over very, very low heat. Keep turning the
eggs with a fork while very slowly adding the pieces of but-
ter. It should take 30 minutes to prepare this dish, which
does not scramble but thickens to a suave consistency.
ALICE B. TOKLAS
THE ALICE B. TOKLAS COOK BOOK
Eggs with Cheese
Uovi al Formaggio
Savoy cheese is also sold as tom me de Savoie; it is a soft cheese
from the Savoy region of France. Tallegio or Bel Paese are two
suitable alternatives.
To serve 3
6 eggs, beaten 6
y4 lb. Savoy cheese, shredded {about 1 cup 125 g.
[ Y4 liter])
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi.
1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 15 mi.
2 tbsp. chopped scallion 30 mi.
grated nutmeg
Y3 cup dry white wine 75 mi.
3 sli ces white bread with the crusts 3
removed, cut into strips
Put the cheese, butter, parsley, scallion, a pinch of nutmeg
and the wine in a saucepan. Simmer over low heat, stirring
constantly until the cheese has melted. Add the eggs, mix
well, and continue to cook over low heat until the eggs are
just set. Pour the mixture into a warmed serving dish and
arrange the strips of soft bread around the edge.
IL CUOCO PIEMONTESE RIDO'ITO ALL'ULTIMO GUSTO
Scrambled Eggs with Dandelion
Dandelion is not only good as a salad, but also delicious
cooked and used with eggs. The hearts only are used; all the
coarser, big leaves should be removed and only a small por-
tion of the root - carefully scraped-left, just enough to
keep the small leaves together. They should be well washed,
then well dried.
To serve 4
8 eggs, beaten with salt and pepper 8
8 dandelion hearts, chopped 8
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
Melt the butter in a saucepan over low heat. Stir in the
dandelion hearts and cook them until they begin to wilt.
Pour in the eggs, and cook and stir until they are scrambled.
6
Y2 lb.
4 tbsp.
1 cup
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
3
MARCEL BOULESTIN AND ROBIN ADAIR
ONE HUNDRED AND TWENTY WAYS OF COOKING EGGS
Swiss Eggs
Oeufs a la Bonne Suisse
To serve 4 to 6
eggs, the yolks separated from the
whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
Gruyere cheese, shredded {about 2
cups [Y2 liter] )
butter
dry white wine
chopped fresh parsley
chopped scallions
pepper
grated nutmeg
slices firm-textured white bread, cut
into strips and fried in butter until
golden
6
% kg.
60 mi.
Y4 liter
30 mi.
30 mi.
3
Put the cheese, butter, wine, parsley, scallions, pepper and
nutmeg into a saucepan. Place the saucepan on a trivet in a
larger pan partly filled with hot water. Stir over low heat
UJ?.til the cheese melts. Add the egg yolks and whites, and
cook them as you would scrambled eggs. Transfer the eggs to
a serving dish and garnish them with the strips of fried
bread. Serve hot.
LE MANUEL DE LA FRIANDISE
11 5
SCRAMBLED EGGS
Scrambled Eggs with Cheese and Wine
La Fondue
To serve 4
6 eggs 6
Y2 cup shredded Gruyere cheese 125 mi.
1 cup dry white wine 200 mi.
1 garlic clave, chapped 1
4 tbsp. butter, softened 60 mi.
salt and pepper
Put the wine and garlic in a saucepan and boil t he mixture
until the garlic is soft and the wine reduced by half, about 15
minutes. Strain the liquid and let it cool.
Beat the eggs with the cheese, butter, reduced wine, and
salt and pepper to taste. Cook the mixture over low heat,
stirring it continuously with a fork. When the eggs begin to
set, remove the pan from the heat and continue to stir for two
minutes, or until the eggs are set.
MENUS PROPOS SUR LA CUISINE COMTOISE
Eggs with Gruyere Cheese
Oeufs au Fromage
To serve 4
6 eggs, beaten 6
1 Y4 cups shredded Gruyere cheese 300 mi.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
salt and pepper
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
2 tbsp. finely cut fresh chives 30 mi.
2;3 cup dry white wine 150 mi.
4 tbsp. fried bread crumbs or small croutons 60 mi.
(recipe, page 166)
Put together in a saucepan t he cheese, butter, salt and pep-
per, parsley, chives and wine. Cook gently, stirring, until the
cheese has melted.
Add the eggs, stirring continuously over low heat until
the mixture becomes thick and creamy. Transfer it to a ser v-
ing dish and garnish with the bread crumbs or croutons.
NOUVEAU MANUEL DE LA CUISINIERE BOURGEOISE ET ECONOMIQUE
116
Scrambled Eggs with Eggplant
Rdntotta Torokparadicsommal
This Bulgarian-influenced dish is still part of the everyday
repertoire in southern Hungary. Somet imes it is made with
onion and tomato puree, without garlic and dill.
To serve 10
lO eggs 10
3 small or 2 medium-sized eggplants, 3
diced
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
1 garli c clove, crushed to a paste 1
1 tsp. fi nely cut f resh dill 5 mi.
ground mace
salt and pepper
Melt the butter and saute the eggplants. When they are soft,
add the garlic and cook for a few minutes more. Sprinkle
with the dill and a pinch each of mace and pepper.
Beat the eggs lightly and add salt to taste. Pour the eggs
over the eggplants and cook the mixture over low heat, stir-
ring continuously, until the eggs are scrambled.
8
GEORGE LANG
THE CUISINE OF HUNGARY
Scrambled Eggs with Mustard
Oeufs a la Robert
To serve 4
eggs, beaten 8
1 to 2 tsp. Di jon mustard 5 to 10 mi.
4 tbsp. butter
onion, chopped
degreased meat roasting juices, or Y2
cup [ 125 mi. ] meat stock (recipe, page
164) , boiled unti l it is reduced by half,
and cooled
salt and pepper
60 mi.
50 mi.
Melt 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the butter and gently cook the
onion in it until soft. Dice t he remaining butt er and add it to
t he eggs with the meat j uices, salt and pepper, and the onion.
Pour the mixt ure into a heavy saucepan and cook it over
very low heat, stirring all the time with a wooden spoon,
unt il the eggs are scrambled to a creamy consistency. When
t he eggs are almost ready, stir in must ard to tast e.
MENON
LES SOUPERS DE LA COUR
Eggs Scrambled with Tom a to and Basil
Brouillade de Tomates au Basilic
To serve 4
8 to 10 eggs, beaten 8 to 10
4 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and 4
coarsely chopped
handful fresh basil leaves and flowers,
chopped
salt
3 or 4 garlic cloves, flattened with the side of
a knife blade
3 or 4
bouquet garni of bay leaf, thyme and
a celery rib, or 1 pinch of crumbled
mixed herbs
Y2 tsp. sugar 2 mi.
Y4 cup olive oil 50 mi.
4 tbsp. butter, cut into small pieces 60 mi.
Cook the tomatoes, salted, with the garlic, bouquet garni or
the mixed herbs, and the sugar in the olive oil over low
heat-tossing the mixture from time to time-until the free
liquid is evaporated and the tomatoes seem only to be coated
with oil. Discard the garlic and the bouquet garni.
Add the butter to the eggs, season to taste, beat the mix-
ture lightly with a fork and, with a wooden spoon, stir it into
the tomato mixture, keeping it over low heat and continuing
to stir constantly. When the eggs begin to thicken, add the
basil, chopped at the last minute to prevent it from blacken-
ing. Remove the eggs from the heat just before the desired
consistency is achieved and continue stirring.
RICHARD OLNEY
SIMPLE FRENCH FOOD
Wild Onions and Eggs
The author has adapted this recipe from The Indian Cook
Book, which was published in 1933 by the Indian Women's
Club of Tulsa, Oklahoma.
Wild onions are a native American plant that, until now,
have always defeated domestication. If you are lucky enough
to find a place where wild onions grow, you will be able to
secure, year after year, enough for the household. They
freeze well. If you cannot find any, you may substitute one
bunch of scallions, a piece of garlic the size of a small Spanish
peanut and 1 tablespoon [15 ml. ] of cut fresh chives. Mash
the garlic with salt. Chop scallions and chives together, then
mix with the garlic salt. This mixture will fairly resemble
the flavor of wild onions.
To serve 8
8 eggs 8
2 bunches wild onions, 10 to 12 in each bunch 2
4 thick bacon slices, cut into Y2 -i nch 4
[1-cm.] strips
2 tbsp. water 30 mi.
Y2 cup milk 125 mi.
sal t and freshly ground black pepper
Wash the onions, remove the outer leaves and peel the roots.
Cut the green parts into 2-inch [5-cm.] lengths, then coarse-
ly chop them. Place the chopped onions in a cold frying pan
along with the pieces of bacon and fry over medium heat,
stirring once in a while, until the bacon starts to turn brown
and the onion becomes limp. Add the water and a sprinkling
of salt, and continue cooking for another 10 to 15 minutes.
Beat the eggs with the milk and salt and pepper to taste,
then add the eggs to the onion mixture. Scramble fast and
serve immediately.
LOUIS SZATHMARY
AMERICAN GASTRONOMY
Eggs in Stewed Vegetables
Chachoucka
A spicy dish from Africa. Sometimes okra is added to the
other vegetables.
To serve 4
8 eggs 8
2 medium-sized onions, sliced 2
Y3 cup olive oil 75 mi.
2 medium-sized green or red peppers, 2
broiled, peeled, seeded and cut into
small pieces
2 medium-sized tomatoes, peeled and
chopped
2
salt and pepper
Cook the onions in hot olive oil in a fireproof dish until they
are soft. Add the peppers and, after five minutes, the toma-
toes. Season with salt and pepper and cook slowly for about
15 minutes, or until the mixture is almost reduced to a pulp.
Push the vegetables to the sides of the dish.
Beat the eggs, pour them into the center, and scramble
them until cooked; or break them in whole, and cook them
until the whites are set.
X. MARCEL BOULESTIN AND A. H. ADAIR
SAVOURIES AND HORSD'OEUVRE
117
SCRAMBLED EGGS I OMELETS
Scrambles with Wild Rice
To cook the wild rice in this recipe, stir [50 ml.] of rice
into 1 cup of boiling water. Cook covered until the
water has been completely absorbed, about 40 minutes.
To serve 4 to 6
8 eggs 8
1 cup cooked wild rice Y4 liter
Y4 cup chopped celery 50 mi.
Y4 cup chopped green pepper 50 mi.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Y2 cup light cream 125 mi.
salt and pepper
Saute t he celery and t he green pepper in the butter in a large
skillet set over medium heat . Lightly beat the eggs with t he
cream; stir in the wild rice.
Pour the egg mixture onto the sauteed vegetables in t he
skillet and scramble until the eggs are set but still soft,
about five minutes. Season wit h salt and pepper.
BETH ANDERSON
WILD RICE FOR ALL SEASONS COOKBOOK
Satchel Eggs
This dish may be served with any hot, well-flavored sauce,
such as tomato sauce (recipe, page 166) or veloute sauce (rec-
ipe, page 165).
6
6 tbsp.
Y2 cup
3,14 cup
Y3 cup
To serve 4
eggs, beaten
small French loaf or 4 crusty rolls, split
lengthwise and the soft centers removed
butter
salt and pepper
chopped cooked ham
chopped fresh mushrooms
shredded Gruyere cheese
6
90 mi.
125 mi.
175 mi.
75 mi.
Butter the insides of t he bread crusts with 4 tablespoons [60
ml. ] of t he butt er. Bake in a preheat ed 400 F. [200 C.] oven
for six to eight minutes, or unt il t hey are lightly browned.
Meanwhile, season t he eggs wit h salt and pepper; mix in
t he ham and mushrooms. Melt the remaining butter and
lightly scramble t he egg mixture in it . Pile the eggs in one
half of the split loaf, top t he eggs with t he cheese and bake in
a preheated 450 F. [230 C.] oven for about fi ve minutes, or
unt il the cheese has melted and browned on top.
Put the empty half-crust on t op and ser ve immediat ely
with a sauce on the side.
MARGARET SHERMAN
THE WINE AND FOOD SOCIETY'S GUIDE TO EGGS
118
Eggs with Late Summer Vegetables,
Bilbao-Style
4
7 tbsp.
1
4 to 5
3
1 cup
2
2
4
Pisto ala Bilbaina
To serve 4
eggs, beaten
oil
onion, thinly sliced
small zucchini, peeled and cubed
ripe tomatoes, peeled and mashed
finely diced cooked ham with its fat
garlic cloves, thinly sli ced
green peppers, broiled until the skin
blackens and blisters, peeled, seeded
and cut into pieces
salt
bread sl ices, cut into triangles and
fried in oil or butter until golden (optional)
4
100 mi.
4 to 5
3
2
2
4
Heat t he oil in a heavy pan. First saute the onion until the
slices are soft, then add the zucchini cubes, cover, and cook
them slowly for about five minutes.
Add the tomatoes, ham, garlic and peppers, season with
salt to taste, cover, and cook until the zucchini is just tender.
Just before serving, add the eggs to the vegetables and
stir unt il t he eggs are set. Serve in a warmed dish, garnished
if desired with triangles of fried bread.
ANA-MARI A CALERA
365 RECETAS DE COCINA VASCA
Golden Tripe
To serve 6
4 eggs 4
5 tbsp. f reshly grated Parmesan cheese 75 mi.
21b. precooked honeycomb tripe, washed 1 kg.
3 cups court bouillon (recipe, page 164) 3,14 li ter
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
6to finely chopped fresh parsley 90 to
8 tbsp. 120 mi.
Y4 cup olive oil 50 mi.
4 sl ices bacon, finely chopped 4
1 onion, thinly sliced 1
salt and pepper
Cover the tripe with the court bouillon and simmer it, cov-
ered, for about an hour, or until the tripe is tender . Drain it,
reserving the stock, and cut the tripe into 1 Y2-inch [ 4-cm.]
squares. Saute the garlic and parsley in 2 tablespoons [30
ml. ] of the olive oil until the garlic is golden. Remove the
garlic and parsley with a slotted spoon.
Add the remaining oil, the bacon and onion, and saute
until the onion slices are limp. Add the garlic mixture, tripe,
and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer the mixture for two to
three minutes. Add % cup [150 ml. ] of the reserved stock;
cover and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes.
Just before serving, beat the eggs together with t he
cheese. Pour the egg mixture over the tripe; stir lightly and
cook until the eggs are just set, about one or two minutes.
The eggs should have a creamy consistency. Serve at once.
8
2
1 Y4 cups
4 tbsp.
3 or 4
JANA ALLEN AND MARGARET GIN
INNARDS AND OTHER VARIETY MEATS
Eggs Scrambled with Cream
Oeufs Brouilles ala Creme
To serve 6
egg yolks, beaten
egg whites, beaten
heavy cream
butter
fresh mushrooms, coarsely chopped
bouquet garni
thi n slice cooked ham, cut into julienne
2 oz. veal trimmings, diced
2I:J cup veal stock (recipe, page 164)
8
2
300 mi.
60 mi.
3 or 4
60 g.
150 mi.
2 or 3 tbsp. veal or other meat roasting juices,
degreased (optional)
30 or 45 mi.
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
1 cup croutons (recipe, page 166) Y4 liter
Over low heat, melt 1 tablespoon [15 ml. ] of butter and saute
the mushrooms, bouquet garni, ham and veal until all of the
meat is well browned. Add the stock, let it boil until it is
nearly reduced to syrup, then add the cream and simmer,
stir ring often, until the liquid is reduced by about half.
Pass the mixture through a sieve, pressing firmly to ex-
tract all flavor from the residue. Gradually stir into this
sauce the roasting juices, egg yolks and whites. Season to
taste with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg.
Stirring all the time, cook t he mixture in the top of a
double boiler over simmering water until the eggs are set
but still creamy and soft. Garnish with the croutons.
MARIN
LES DONS DE COMUS
8
3
4 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
<9melets
Raw Egg Omelet
Omelette aux Oeufs Crus
To serve 4
eggs, beaten with salt and pepper
egg yol ks, lightly beaten
butter
finely cut fresh chives or chopped fresh
watercress
8
3
60 mi.
15 ml.
Heat the butter in a large omelet pan and pour in the eggs.
When the omelet is almost set and moves easily in the pan,
mix the egg yolks with the chives or watercress and spread
this mixture over the omelet. Fold it in half and serve.
8
2 tbsp.
1 tsp.
FREDERICK ELLES AND SACHA SOSNO
99 OMELETTES ORIGIN ALES
Flamed Vodka Omelet
Omelette Aletti
To serve 4
eggs, the yolks separated from the
whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
vodka
butter
onion, chopped
paprika
salt
3 to 4 tbsp. heavy cream
8
50 mi.
30ml.
5 mi.
45,to 60 mi.
Heat 1 t ablespoon [15 ml.] of the butter in a small pan and
gently cook the onion until it is transparent, adding tea-
spoon [1 ml.] of the paprika. Allow the onion to cool, then
mix it with the remaining butter. Press this paprika-butter
mixture through a sieve.
Mix the egg yolks and beaten egg whites together and
season with salt . Melt the paprika butter in a skillet and add
the eggs. Cook until the omelet is almost set. Mix t he cream
with the remaining paprika and spread it in the center of the
omelet. Fold the omelet into thirds.
Heat the vodka in a ladle or small saucepan, set it alight,
and pour it, fl aming, over the omelet. Serve immediately.
ROBERT COURTI NE
MES REPAS LES PLUS ETONNANTS
119
OMELETS
Egg Symphony
Symphonie d'Oeufs
For the basic techniques of hard-boiling and poaching eggs,
see pages 24-25 and 26-27. To prepare a tomato sauce to serve
with this dish, peel, seed and roughly chop four medium-
sized ripe tomatoes. Season them to taste with salt,pepperand
herbs, and simmer them over medium heat until they have
reduced to a fairly thick puree -about 20 minutes.
To serve 4
14 eggs 14
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
salt and pepper
Hard-boil two of the eggs, cool and shell them, and chop them
fine. Poach four of the eggs and keep them warm.
Beat the eight remaining eggs together, and season them
with salt and pepper. Heat a quarter of the butter in a small
omelet pan. When the butter foams, but before it browns,
pour in a quarter of the beaten eggs. Cook, pulling the edges
of the omelet toward the center, until the entire mixture is
set. Slide the omelet out onto a warmed plate, and repeat the
operation three times more.
Sprinkle the omelets with the chopped, hard-boiled eggs,
and place a poached egg in the center of each. Fold the edges
of the omelets over the poached eggs. Serve immediately,
with a hot tomato sauce.
EUGENIE BRAZIER
LES SECRETS DE LA MERE BRAZIER
Cheese and Mint Omelet
Omelette au Brocciu eta la Menthe
The original version of this recipe calls for brocciu, a Corsican
fresh sheep's-milk cheese, known as brousse in mainland
r a n c e ~ Since neither brocciu nor brousse is available in the
United States, Tallegio cheese can be used instead.
To serve 2
4 eggs, beaten 4
5 oz. T allegio cheese, mashed to a paste
with a fork
150 g.
3 or 4 fresh mint leaves, cut into quarters 3 or 4
salt and pepper
2 tbsp. butter or oil 30 mi.
Mix the cheese, mint, and salt and pepper well into the eggs.
Heat the butter or oil in an omelet pan, pour in the egg
mixture and cook for about one minute, or until the omelet is
just set. Roll it as you slide it from the pan.
120
MARIA NUNZIA FILIPPINI
LA CUISINE CORSE
2
Puffed Cheese Omelet
To serve 1
eggs, the yol ks separated from the
whites
salt
T a basco sauce
1 Y2 tbsp. butter, cut into bi ts
Y2 cup finely shredded Cheddar
2
22 mi.
125 mi.
Add a pinch of salt to the egg whites and two or three drops of
Tabasco sauce to the yolks. With a rotary beater, beat the
whites rapidly until they form firm, unwavering peaks.
Then, using the same beater (do not bother to wash it), beat
the yolks long enough to combine them.
With a rubber spatula, scrape the yolks over the whites,
and fold the two together until only a few streaks of the
whites are apparent. Be careful not to overfold.
Drop the butter bits into a 10-inch [25-cm.] frying pan
with a nonstick surface. Set the pan over medium heat.
When the butter melts, tip the pan from side to side to coat
the bottom and sides evenly.
With the rubber spatula, scrape the omelet mixture into
the center of the pan. Then, with a small metal spatula,
quickly spread the omelet so that it covers the bottom of the
pan. With the tip of the spatula, shape the edges of the om-
elet to make it as round as possible. Reduce t he heat to low.
Cook the omelet for about one minute to firm the under-
side, then slide the pan gently back and forth across the
burner until the omelet moves freely in one foamy mass.
Now let the omelet cook for about two minutes more, or until
the underside of the omelet is golden brown and the top feels
warm, not hot, to the touch.
Immediately remove the pan from the heat and scatter
the shredded cheese evenly over the omelet. Grasp the han-
dle of the pan securely and hold the pan tilted, with its far
edge just inside the edge of the warmed plate. Insert the
metal spatula under the edge of the omelet away from the
handle, simultaneously drawing the pan back until about
half the omelet has come to rest on the plate while the other
half remains in the pan. Now confidently push the tilted
pan forward, using its rim to fold the remaining half of the
omelet over as it slides from the pan. This forms a puffed,
golden-brown crescent, the cheese enclosed within it. Serve
the omelet at once on a preheated plate.
MICHAEL FIELD
COOKING ADVENTURES WITH MICHAEL FIELD
Cheese and Jelly Omelet
Tortilla de Jalea con Queso
To serve 4
4 eggs, the yolks separated from the 4
whites
3Y2 oz. cheese, cut into cubes 100 g.
Y4 cup milk 50 mi.
salt
1 tbsp. melted butter 15 mi.
guava or other fruit jelly
Combine the cheese cubes with the milk and cook, stirring
occasionally, over low heat until the cheese melts. Remove
from the heat and cool the mixture slightly. Beat the egg
yolks with the salt and add them slowly to the milk. Salt to
taste. Beat the egg whites until stiff and gently fold them
into the mixt ure, being careful to keep it slightly lumpy.
Melt the butter in a medium-sized ovenproof skillet.
Pour in the egg mixture and cook over low heat until the
omelet rises slightly and the bottom sets, about five minutes.
Then bake in a preheated 325 F. [160 C.] oven for 15 min-
utes, or until the omelet is dry and golden on top. Remove it
from the oven and place it on a flat serving dish. Spread jelly
on one side of the omelet and fold it in half; then spread more
jelly on top. Serve immediately.
8
7 or 8
5 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
2 or 3
NURIFONSECA
LATINOAMERICA EN SU COCINA
Asparagus Omelet
Aumelette d'Asperges
To serve 4
eggs, beaten 8
medium-sized asparagus spears 7 or 8
(about Y2 lb. [Y4 kg. ] ), tough ends
removed and stalks cut into pea-sized
pieces
butter 75 mi.
flour 15 mi.
salt and pepper
chopped fresh parsley 15 mi.
chopped scallions 2 or 3
heavy cream 125 mi.
Heat half of the butter and stir in t he flour. Add the aspara-
gus, salt, pepper, parsley and scallions. Cook gently for
about 10 minutes, or until the asparagus is tender but still
firm. Then stir in the cream, bring it to a boil and remove the
skillet from the heat.
Heat t he remaining butter in a large omelet pan. Mix t he
eggs well into t he asparagus. Pour the mixture into the pan
and cook it for about three or four minutes, unt il the omelet
is brown on t he bottom. Reverse it immediately onto a
warmed plate for serving, or place it under the broiler for a
minute or two to set the top before serving.
L'ESCOLE PARFAITE DES OFFICIERS DE BOUCHE
Broad Bean Omelet
Omelette de Feves V ertes
There are many variations on this recipe, and other vegeta-
bles, first sweated in butter, then gently simmered in cream,
may be used in place of the broad beans. These include mush-
rooms, garden peas, asparagus tips, artichoke bottoms,
white or black truffies, spinach and sor rel.
To serve 2
4 eggs, beaten 4
2 1b. young broad beans, shelled and
peeled
1 kg.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 15 mi.
2 tsp. finely cut fresh chives or finely
chopped scallions
10ml.
1 cup heavy cream Y4 liter
salt and pepper
2 egg yolks 2
In half of the butter, gent ly saute t he broad beans with the
parsley and chives or scallions. Add lh cup [125 ml.] of the
cream, season lightly with salt and pepper, and cook over
low heat for about 10 minutes, or until the beans are soft. Set
aside off the heat.
Beat half of t he remaining cream into the eggs; salt to
taste. Heat the remaining butter in a small omelet pan, pour
in t he eggs and make a flat omelet, cooking about two to
three minutes until the eggs are set but the center creamy.
Slip t he omelet onto a warmed serving plate.
Beat t he egg yolks with the remaining cream and stir
them into the creamed beans. Return the beans to low heat,
stirring until the sauce thickens. Do not let the sauce boil.
Pour the sauced beans over the omelet, and serve.
MASSIALOT
LE CUISINIER ROIAL ET BOURGEOIS
121
OMELETS
Artichoke Omelet
This is a Roman specialty and one of the best. According to
the century-old method, roast-meat drippings are the fat
used for cooking it, and may replace olive oil here.
6
2or3
3 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
1 tsp.
To serve 6
eggs, beaten
plump tiny artichokes, spiky leaves
and chokes removed, bottoms
quartered
strained fresh lemon juice
olive oil
salt and pepper
chopped fresh parsley
6
2 or 3
45 mi.
30 mi.
5 mi.
Before cooking the artichokes, let them stand for a few min-
utes in a bowl of cold water, with the lemon juice added to
prevent them from going black.
Now drain, and cook them in a medium-sized omelet pan
with the olive oil, salt, pepper and a dash of water if the pan
threatens to cook dry.
When the artichokes are cooked (about 10 minutes), pour
in the eggs with the parsley. Cook over medium-low heat for
about five minutes longer, so that the eggs are mixed with
the artichokes and nearly set. The omelet is ready.
SOPHIA LOREN
IN THE KITCHEN WITH LOVE
Roman Omelet
U ova alla Romana
The original recipe calls for provatura, a fresh Roman cheese
made from water-buffalo milk. It is not available in the U.S.
8
4 tbsp.
21b.
1 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
2 oz.
To serve 4
eggs
butter
broad beans, shelled and peeled
(3 cups [3;'4 li ter] )
small boiling or pickling onions
chopped fresh herbs (savory,
marjoram, parsley)
salt and pepper
ground allspice
heavy cream
T al legio or Bel Paese cheese, sliced
8
60 mi.
1 kg.
125 g.
15 mi.
30 mi.
60 g.
Melt half of the butter in a saucepan and add the broad
beans, onions, herbs and seasonings. Cover and cook gently
for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Beat
122
together the eggs and cream, and stir in the cheese and the
vegetable mixture.
Heat the remaining butter in a large omelet pan and,
when the butter foams, pour in the egg mixture. Cook for five
minutes, or until the omelet is set. Place the omelet under
the broiler briefly to cook the top. Serve the omelet unfolded.
6
4 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
VINCENZO CORRADO
IL CUOCO GALANTE
Cauliflower Frittata
Frittata di Cavolfiore
To serve 4
eggs, beaten
small caul iflower (about 10 oz. [300
g.]), trimmed, cored, broken into
fl orets, boiled unti l just tender and
finely chopped
butter
olive oil
sal t and pepper
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
6
60 mi.
15 mi.
30 mi.
Heat the butter and oil in a medium-sized omelet pan, put in
the cauliflower, and season it with salt and pepper. Cook the
cauliflower gently until it has absorbed the butter and oil.
Beat the eggs with the cheese and a pinch of salt. Pour them
over the cauliflower, and cook until the omelet is set. It
should not be necessary to turn it.
PELLEGRINO ARTUSI
LA SCIENZA IN CUCINA E L' ARTE DI MANGIAR BENE
Lettuce Omelet
As the lettuce for the omelet, you can use Bibb, Boston hearts
or buttercrunch hearts.
To serve 2
4 eggs, beaten 4
small lettuce, coarsely sliced
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
salt and pepper
2 or 3 tbsp. white sauce (recipe, page 165) 30 or45 mi.
Saute the lettuce in half of the butter until softened. Season
it with salt and pepper, and combine it with the white sauce.
Melt the remaining butter in a medium-sized omelet
pan. Pour the eggs into the pan and let the omelet cook until
almost set. Put the lettuce filling into the center of the om-
elet, fold it over and serve.
NARCISSA CHAMBERLAIN
THE OMELETTE BOOK
Leek Omelet
Omelette aux Poireaux
To serve 4
8 eggs 8
4 or 5 leeks, white parts only 4 or 5
2 tbsp. heavy cream 30 mi.
salt and pepper
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Cook the leeks in a few spoonfuls of water for 10 minutes.
Drain the leeks, and boil the cooking liquid until it is re-
duced to about 1 tablespoon [15 ml. ]. Chop the leeks fine; stir
the cream into the leeks.
Beat the eggs with salt, pepper, and the reduced cooking
liquid. Melt the butter in a large omelet pan. When the but-
ter is hot, pour in the beaten eggs and allow them to set.
Spread the leeks down the center of the omelet, and fold t he
omelet over the leeks just before you t urn it out of the pan.
6
3
Y2 cup
2
FREDERICK ELLES AND SACHA SOSNO
99 OMELETIES ORIGIN ALES
Cold Frittata, Country-Style
Frittata Fredda alla Rustica
To serve 4
eggs
small eggplant, peeled and cut into
slices Y2 inch [1 em.] thick
salt and pepper
artichokes, outer leaves discarded,
sliced into water acidulated with fresh
lemon juice
olive oil
green peppers, broiled until the skin
blackens and blisters, peeled, seeded
and cut into thin strips
6
3
125 mi.
2
Sprinkle t he eggplant slices with salt and let them stand in a
colander for one hour. Drain and pat the eggplant dry. Drain
the artichoke slices well on absorbent paper.
Heat half ofthe oil in a skillet, and when it is hot add the
artichokes and eggplant. Cover and cook over low heat for 30
minutes or until very tender, adding a little water if needed.
In a bowl , beat the eggs with a pinch of salt and a little
pepper. Remove the artichokes and eggplant from the pan
and drain them well on absorbent paper. Chop them and add
them to the eggs with the pepper strips. Mix well.
In a 10-inch [25-cm.] skillet, heat the remaining oil until
it sizzles. Pour in the egg-and-vegetable mixture and cook
until the eggs are set. Turn the frittata out onto a serving
platter. Cool and then cut into small wedges. Serve cold.
WAVERLEY ROOT
THE BEST OF ITALIAN COOKING
Eggs in a Greatcoat
Uova in Surtout
To serve 6
13 eggs, 7 hard-boiled and quartered,
6 beaten
13
8 tbsp. butter 120 mi.
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
2 tbsp. chopped scall ion 30 mi.
1 cup chopped fresh mushrooms % liter
1 tbsp. finely cut fresh chives 15 mi.
1 tbsp. flour 15ml.
1 cup milk Y4 liter
salt and freshly ground pepper
Y4 cup dry bread crumbs 50 mi.
Melt 2 tablespoons [30 ml. ] of the butter in a saucepan over
low heat. Put in t he parsley, scallion, mushrooms and
chives, and cook until the vegetables are soft. Mix the flour
with the milk and stir t hem into t he pan. Season with salt
and pepper. Bring the sauce to a boil and stir it until it
thickens, about five minutes. Add the egg quarters, cook for
a moment, and then arrange the eggs and sauce in a heat ed
shallow serving dish, 8 inches [20 em.] in diameter.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large omelet pan,
pour in the beaten eggs and cook until this omelet is set,
turning it to brown both sides lightly. Place the omelet over
the eggs and sauce so that sauce and eggs are completely
hidden. Melt the remaining butter and brush a little of it
over the top of the omelet. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, pour
on the rest of the butter and put the dish under t he broiler for
a minute or two to brown the crumbs.
IL CUOCO PIEMONTESE RIDOTTO ALL'ULTIMO GUSTO
123
OMELETS
Dried Mushroom Omelet
L'Omelette aux Cepes Sees ou aux Mousserons Sees
To serve 4
8 eggs, lightly beaten 8
2 oz. dried cepes or fiel d mushrooms, 60g.
soaked in hot water for 2 hours, rinsed
in warm water, drained and diced
Y4 cup olive oil 50 mi.
shallot, chopped l
Y2 garlic clove, chopped Y2
Y2 cup diced cooked ham 125 mi.
salt and pepper
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Heat the oil in a skillet and cook the shallot for five minutes,
or until softened. Add the mushrooms, garlic and ham, and
cook, stirring, for 10 minutes, or until the mushrooms are
soft. Cool the mixture slightly.
Stir the mushroom mixture into the eggs, season to taste,
and let the eggs stand for 30 minutes.
Melt the butter in a large omelet pan, pour in the egg
mixture, and cook until the omelet is almost set but still
creamy in the center. Fold the omelet as you slide it onto a
warmed serving dish.
ALBIN MARTY
FOURMIGUETTO: SOUVENIRS, CONTES ET RECETTES DU LANGUEDOC
Lyons Onion Omelet
Omelette Lyonnaise
To serve 4
8 eggs, beaten with Y4 cup [50 mi.] water 8
2 onions, thinly sliced 2
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
3 tbsp. butter 45 mi.
salt and pepper
Y4 cup white wine vinegar 50 mi.
Heat the butter in a large omelet pan over low heat , and in it
brown the onions, mixed with the parsley. Season them with
salt and pepper, then pour the eggs over the onion mixture
and cook the omelet until the underneath is brown and the
top almost set. Turn it over like a pancake, cook for another
minute and transfer it to a warmed serving dish.
Add the vinegar to the hot pan, bring it quickly to the boil
and sprinkle it over the omelet just before serving.
124
FELIX BENOIT AND HENRY CLOS JOUVE
LA CUISINE LYONNAISE
Feydeau' s Omelet
Omelette Feydeau
To serve 3
lO eggs, 7 beaten, 3 poached or soft-
boiled
lO
l ib. fresh mushrooms Y2 kg.
lO tbsp. butter, 6 tbsp. [90 mi.] diced 150 mi.
Y2 cup freshly grated Parmesan or Gruyere
cheese
125 mi.
2Y2 cups white sauce (recipe, page 165) 625 mi.
Y3 cup heavy cream 75 mi.
small truffle, cut into julienne (optional) l
sal t and pepper
Put the raw mushrooms through a food processor, then saute
them in 2 tablespoons [30 ml. ] of the butter until all of their
liquid has evaporated.
Over low heat, add most of the grated cheese to the white
sauce. Add 4 t ablespoons [60 ml. ] of the diced butter, then
stir in the cream and the truffie if using.
Add 2 tablespoons of diced butter to the beaten eggs with
salt and pepper. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter
in a large omelet pan, then pour in the eggs. Cook until the
omelet is almost set , but still liquid on top. Roll the omelet as
you slide it onto a warmed ovenproof serving dish. Slit the
top of the omelet to form a pocket. Spoon the mushroom
pur ee into the pocket.
Place the poached or soft-boiled eggs on top of the filling.
Cover with the cheese sauce, sprinkle with the remaining
cheese and put under a hot broiler for two to three minutes,
or until the cheese browns.
PROSPER MONTAGNE
THE NEW LAROUSSE GASTRONOMIQUE
Mashed Potato Omelet
Omelette Markode
A meat omelet may be cooked in the same way. Replace the
potatoes with 1 pound [lh kg. ] well-cooked beef or lamb,
chopped with onions and spices.
To serve 4
8 eggs 8
5 medium-sized potatoes, peeled, 5
halved and steamed for 35 to
40 minutes
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 3
3 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 45 mi.
salt and pepper
3 tbsp. olive oil 45 mi.
lemon wedges or prepared mustard
In a bowl, crush the potatoes with a fork. Add the garlic and
parsley. Beat the eggs into the potatoes, one by one, and
season the mixt ure with salt and pepper.
Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet, pour in the egg
mixture and cook over low heat for 15 minutes, or until t he
underneath is browned and the top almost set.
Take the skillet off the heat, cover it wit h an inverted
plate, turn it over so that the omelet falls onto the plate, and
slide the omelet back into the skillet. Cook t he second side
for 10 minutes, or until browned. Serve hot or cold, wit h
lemon wedges or mustard.
IRENE AND LUCIENNE KARSENTY
LA CUISINE PIEDNOIR
Grated Potato and Cheese Omelet
La Rapee
2
2
1 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
To serve 2
eggs, beaten
medium-sized potatoes, peeled and
grated (about 1 Y4 cups [300 mi.])
salt and pepper
finely chopped onion
garlic cl ove, finely chopped
finely shredded Gruyere cheese
butter
2
2
15 mi.
30 mi.
30 mi.
Mix together the eggs, potatoes, salt and pepper, onion, gar-
lic and cheese. Melt the butter in a medium-sized omelet
pan, pour in the egg mixture and cook for five minutes on
each side, or until golden and firm.
EDOUARD M. NIGNON
LE LIVRE DE CUISINE DE L'OUEST-ECLAIR
Swiss Stuffed Omelets
Omelettes Farcies ala S uisse
The rolled, stuffed omelets may alternatively be sprihkled
with bread crumbs and melted butter and broiled, or dipped
in beaten egg, then in crumbs and fried in butter.
7
~ u p
8 tbsp.
3
2
Y4 cup
To serve 6
eggs, beaten
heavy cream
salt
butter
thick slices white bread with the crusts
removed, cut into strips
egg yolks, beaten
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Sorrel stuffing
Y2 lb. fresh sorrel, stemmed and shredded
2 tbsp. butter
YJ cup heavy cream
salt
1 Y2 cups fresh white bread crumbs
Y2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
3 hard-boiled egg yolks, mashed
7
150 mi.
120 mi.
3
2
50 mi.
30 mi.
75 mi.
375 mi.
125 mi.
3
Mix the beaten eggs with 3 or 4 tablespoons [ 45 or 60 ml.] of
the cream and a pinch of salt. Heat 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of
butter in a large omelet pan and make seven t hin, flat om-
elets with t he egg mixture, stacking them in reserve while
you make the stuffing.
For the stuffing, cook the sorrel in the butter until it is
melted to a puree. Add the cream, season with salt, and
simmer until slight ly t hickened. Off the heat, stir in t he
bread crumbs, cheese and egg yolks.
Spread out six of the omelets on a clean cloth, divide half
of the stuffing among them and roll them up. Fry the bread
strips slowly in 4 tablespoons [60 ml.] of the butter until they
ar e golden. Dip one side of each strip into the beaten egg
yolks, and arrange t he strips- dipped sides butward-to
form a wall around t he edge of a shallow ovenproof dish just
large enough to hold the omelets. Cut the stuffed omelets in
half crosswise and arrange them in the dish; fill any gaps
and cover t he t ops of the omelets with the remaining stuff-
ing. Pour the rest of the cream over the top.
Place the remaining omelet fl at on top of t he dish as a
cover. Sprinkle it with the cheese, dot with the remaining
butter and bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 30
minutes, or until the top omelet is golden.
LOUIS AUGUSTE DE BOURBON
LE CUISINIER GASCON
125
OMELETS
Sorrel Omelet
Omelette a l'Oseille
To serve 2
4 eggs, beaten wi th salt and pepper 4
3 oz. fresh young sorrel leaves, stems and
middle ribs removed, finely cut with a
knife
90 g.
Y2 garlic clove, chopped Y2
1 tbsp. chopped fresh chervil 15 mi.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Mix the sorrel with your eggs, and add the garlic and chervil.
Melt the butter in a medium-sized omelet pan. Pour in the
eggs and allow t hem to set. The omelet should be made rath-
er t hick so t hat, the inside being less cooked, the sorrel that
is t here remains almost raw. This gives it a peculiar acid
taste, extremely pleasant and fresh.
X. MARCEL BOULESTIN
SIMPLE FRENCH COOKING FOR ENGLISH HOMES
Omelet Sandwich with Sorrel Filling
Omelette ala Gendarme
To serve 4
6 eggs, 4 beaten, the yolks of 2
separated from the whites
6
Y2 lb. sorrel, finely chopped (about 2 cups y4 kg.
[ Y2 liter])
6 tbsp. butter 90 mi.
%cup heavy cream 50 mi.
1 cup fresh bread crumbs Y4 liter
2;3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 150 mi.
salt and pepper
4 slices firm-textured white bread, cut 4
into fingers and fried in butter
Cook the sorrel in 2 tablespoons [30 ml. ] of the butter until it
is reduced to a puree. Beat the two egg yolks with the cream
and stir t hem into the sorrel with most of t he bread crumbs
and cheese, reserving about 2 tablespoons of each.
Heat 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of t he butter in a large omelet
pan. Season the four beaten eggs with salt and pepper, and
pour half of the egg mixture into the pan. Cook until just set,
and slide the omelet onto a serving dish.
Lightly beat t he two egg whites, dip the fried bread fin-
gers into t he whites and arrange them around t he edge of the
omelet. Spread the sorrel mixture on t he center of the om-
elet. Heat another tablespoon of butter in t he omelet pan and
make another thin omelet with the remaining egg mixture.
126
Slip this omelet over the fi lling, moist side uppermost, so
that the sorrel is completely hidden.
Melt the remaining butter and sprinkle it on top, then
sprinkle on the remaining bread crumbs and cheese. Bake in
a preheated 450 F. [230 C. ] oven for about five minutes,
then place the omelet under a preheated broiler for a minute
or two to brown the top.
MENON
LES SOUPERS DE LA COUR
Spinach Omelet from Nice
Omelette Nic;arde aux Epinards
To serve 4
8 eggs, beaten 8
y4 lb. Swiss chard, leaves chopped (about 125 g.
1 Y2 cups [375 mi. ])
1 Y2 cups chopped fresh spinach 375 mi.
8 tbsp. olive oi l 120 mi.
YJ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 75 mi.
1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 15 mi.
1 tbsp. chopped fresh basi l 15ml.
2 garlic cloves, chopped 2
Cook the chard and spinach in half of the olive oil until the
oil is completely absorbed. Cool the mixture slight ly, and
add it to the eggs with the cheese, parsley, basil and garlic.
Heat the remaining oil in an omelet pan that will make
an omelet two fingers thick (an 8-inch [20-cm.] pan). Pour in
the egg mixture and cook over medium heat for 10 minutes,
or until t he omelet is set.
C. CHANOT-BULLIER
VIEILLES RECETTES DE CUISINE PROVEN GALE
California Omelet
To serve 3 or 4
6 eggs, lightly beaten 6
small garlic clove, crushed to a paste
4 tbsp. olive oil 60 mi.
12 large ri pe olives, pitted and chopped 12
Y2 cup heavy cream 125 mi.
2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced 2
avocado, halved, pitted, peeled and diced
Heat t he garlic in 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the oil. Remove
the garlic, add the olives and cream, and heat them gently.
Heat the remaining oil in a large omelet pan, pour in the
eggs and cook until they are set and the underside is brown.
Add the tomatoes and avocado to the cream mixture just as
the omelet is nearing completion. As soon as the vegetables
are heated (no cooking please!), pour one third of the mixture
onto the omelet.
Fold the omelet, turn it onto a hot platter and pour the
rest of the vegetable mixture around the omelet.
HELEN BROWN
HELEN BROWN'S WEST COAST COOK BOOK
Green Tom a to Frittata
Frittata di Pomodori Verdi
To flour green tomato slices, pat the cut surfaces dry and place
the slices on a flour-covered plate for a few seconds, turning
them to lightly coat both sides. Flour the slices as you use
them, just before adding them to the hot oil.
To serve 6
6 eggs, very lightly beaten with a pi nch
of salt
6
4 large green tomatoes, cut into slices 4
Y2 inch [l em.] thick
1 cup olive oil % liter
l cup flour % liter
salt and freshly ground pepper
Heat all but 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of the oil in a frying pan.
While the oil is heating, flour the tomato slices.
When the oil begins to sizzle, place only as many tomato
slices in the pan as will make a single layer. Saute until
golden brown on both sides, then transfer to a paper towel to
drain; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Fry the remaining to-
mato slices in the same way.
Heat the remaining tablespoon of oil in a large omelet
pan. When it is hot, add the tomato slices. (The slices are
reduced in size from having been sauteed, so they should all
fit in one layer .) Pour the eggs over the tomato slices.
When the eggs are well set and the fri ttata is well de-
tached from the bottom of the pan, place a plate, face down,
over the pan. Holding the plate firmly, reverse t he pan and
turn the frittata out.
Return the pan to the heat. Carefully slide the frittata
into the pan to cook the other side. After one minute, reverse
the frittata onto a serving dish. Serve either hot or cold.
GIULIANO BUGIALLI
THE FINE ART OF ITALIAN COOKING
Zucchini Flower Omelet
I have seen this omelet turn out more successfully if, instead
of cooking the flowers whole, you tear them up into pieces of
more or less equal size.
To serve 2
4 eggs, beaten 4
4 to 6 zucchini flowers 4 to 6
2 tbsp. olive oil 30 mi.
salt
1 tsp. chopped fresh parsley 5 mi.
Cook the flowers over low heat in half of the oil and a sprin-
kling of salt for two to three minutes, or until wilted. Pour
them into the eggs, without forgetting to add the parsley.
Heat the remaining oil in a medium-sized omelet pan,
pour in the egg mixture and cook the omelet for about five
minutes, or until it sets and the underside begins to brown.
6
2
4 tbsp.
2 tsp.
l
213 cup
SOPHIA LOREN
IN THE KITCHEN WITH LOVE
Zucchini Omelet
Omelette aux Courgettes
To serve 4
eggs, beaten
medium-sized zucchini, peeled,
1 diced and 1 cut into thin rounds
oil or butter
chopped fresh parsley
garlic clove, chopped
salt and pepper
tomato sauce (recipe, page 166)
6
2
60ml.
10ml.
150 mi.
Lightly saute the diced zucchini in 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of
the oil or butter until they are soft; add half of the parsley.
Remove them, and saute the zucchini rounds in an addition-
al tablespoon of oil or butter until they are soft and golden.
Sprinkle them with the remaining parsley and the garlic,
then set them aside.
Season the eggs with salt and pepper, and add the diced
zucchini. Heat 1 t ablespoon of oil or butter in a large omelet
pan, pour in half of the egg mixture and cook until the omelet
is set. Turn it out flat onto a round serving dish and cover it
with the zucchini rounds.
Make a second omelet with the rest of the egg mixture
and place that on top of the first. Surround the omelet with a
ring of tomato sauce.
PROSPER MONTAGNE AND A. GOTTSCHALK
MONMENU
127
OMELETS
Swiss Chard Omelet from Nice
Omelette Niqoise ala Blette
As a variation on this recipe, you may add a few spinach
leaves to the chard.
To serve 4
8 eggs, beaten 8
about 10 Swiss chard leaves about 10
3 tbsp. butter 45 mi.
Y2 garlic clove Y2
Y2 cup shredded Gruyere cheese 125 mi.
salt and pepper
Heat 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of the butter and gently cook the
chard leaves in it for 10 minutes. Coarsely chop t hem wit h
the garlic. Add the cheese, salt and pepper to the leaves, and
mix this with the eggs.
Melt the remaining butter in a large omelet pan, pour in
the egg mixture, and cook the omelet for about five minutes,
or until it has set but is still creamy in the middle. Fold the
omelet as you slide it from the pan.
BENOIT MASCARELLI
LA TABLE EN PROVENCE & SUR LA COTE D'AZUR
Iraq Walnut Omelet
To serve 3 or 4
6 eggs, beaten 6
%cup finely chopped walnuts 175 mi.
Y2 cup dried currants, soaked in warm water 125 mi.
far 15 minutes and drained
Y4 tsp. ground saffron 1 mi.
Y4 tsp. ground turmeric 1 mi.
2 tbsp. finely cut fresh chives
30 mi.
Y4 cup fresh bread crumbs 50 mi.
salt and pepper
1 to 2 tbsp. butter 15 ta30 mi.
Mix t he walnuts, currants, saffron, t urmeric, chives, bread
crumbs, salt and pepper into the eggs. Melt 1 tablespoon [15
ml. ] of the butter in a large omelet pan over high heat and
pour the egg mixture into it. When set and brown on one
side, add more butter to the pan if necessary, turn the omelet
and lightly cook the other side.
128
NARCISSA CHAMBERLAIN
THE OMELETTE BOOK
8
2
%cup
6 tbsp.
Rouen Omelet
Omelette Rouennaise
To serve 4
eggs, beaten
duck livers, clinging membrane or fat
removed, and thinly sliced
salt and pepper
red wine
butter
8
2
175 mi.
90 mi.
Bring half of the wine to a simmer. Add the duck livers and
cook them gently for 10 minutes until the slices are firm but
still pink in the center. Drain and set them aside.
Heat 3 tablespoons [45 ml.] of the butter in a large omelet
pan over high heat, season the eggs with salt and pepper,
and add them to the butter. When they have begun to set,
arrange the duck-liver slices over the eggs.
While the omelet finishes cooking (in approximately two
minutes), bring the rest of the wine to a boil with the remain-
ing butter. Fold the omelet over the duck livers and sprinkle
the wine-and-butter mixture over it.
MARIE BISSON
LA CUISINE NORMANDE
Duck-Egg Omelet with Coconut
Telur Dadar Padang
If duck eggs are not available, substitute the same number of
jumbo-sized chicken eggs. Unsweetened or natural coconut
can be found in block form in the frozen-food section of Orien-
tal grocery stores. American baking coconut is sweetened,
and not suitable for this recipe.
This savory omelet is thick and satisfying, and can be
eaten either as a main dish with rice and vegetables or as a
snack with salad.
3
1 or
2 tbsp.
2
1 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
To serve 4
duck eggs
grated fresh or dried, unsweetened
coconut
shallots
garlic clove
dried red chili, stemmed and seeded,
or Y2 tsp. [2 mi. ] cayenne pepper
cold water
salt
vegetable oil
3
15ar
30 ml.
2
15 mi.
30 mi.
Either chop the shallots, garlic and chili fine or, better still,
pound them together. Mix them with the coconut and water,
and add a little salt to taste. Then beat the mixture thor-
oughly with the eggs. It needs more beating than an ordi-
nary plain omelet, and should become quite fluffy.
Heat the oil in a wok or a large skillet, and spoon it over
the sides or tilt and turn the wok so that the sides are well
coated with oil. Pour the omelet mixture into the hot wok;
swirl it around so that the omelet is not too thick in the
center. Let it cook for two or three minutes.
Turn it over carefully (it should be perfectly circular) and
cook slowly for another three or four minutes until the mid-
dle, which of course is still the thickest part, is firm and the
whole omelet is lightly browned. The edges should be deli-
cately crisp. Serve hot or cold, cut up into wedges like a cake.
PETITS PROPOS CULINAIRES
Spanish Omelet
Tortilla M urciana
This omelet is usually accompanied by a salad made with
whatever vegetables are seasonally available.
6 to 8
7 tbsp.
1 cup
2
To serve 4
eggs
olive oil
chopped cooked ham
onion, diced
green pepper, stemmed, seeded,
deribbed and diced
eggplant, peeled and diced
small zucchini, diced
ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped
salt
6 to 8
100 mi.
Y4 liter
2
Heat the oil in a large skillet and gently cook the ham, onion
and green pepper for about 10 minutes. Add the eggplant
and zucchini to the skillet, and cook gently until all of the
vegetables are tender. Add the tomatoes and allow their
juice to evaporate. When the tomatoes, too, are soft, season
with a little salt, bearing in mind that the ham may be salty.
Beat the eggs lightly with a little salt and pour them over
the vegetables. Cook over medium heat for about two min-
utes. When the underside is lightly browned, turn the om-
elet to brown the other side. Serve cut into wedges.
MARiA DOLORES COMAS
THE BEST OF SPANISH COOKING
-. ~ - _
=
Catalan Omelet
Tortilla a la Catalana
The original version of this recipe calls for botifarra, a pork
sausage produced in Catalonia and the Balearics. Black boti-
farra is a kind of blood sausage, but pine nuts, cumin seeds,
almonds and ground cinnamon give it a distinctive flavor.
White botifarra is a mild fresh sausage.
8
Y2 cup
To serve 4
eggs, beaten
olive oil ; or 2 tbsp. [30 mi. ] lard
blood sausage or mild fresh sausage,
sliced Y2 inch [1 em.] thick
8
50 mi.
125 g.
dried kidney beans, soaked in water 125 mi.
overnight, drained, boiled in fresh water
for 2 hours or until tender, drained again
salt
Heat the oil in a large skillet and fry the sausage slices until
lightly browned. Remove them from the pan, add the beans
and fry them lightly. Salt the eggs lightly, and add the sau-
sage and beans. If necessary, put a little more oil or lard into
the skillet, pour in the egg mixture and cook until browned
on the bottom. Turn to brown the other side.
VICTORIA SERRA, TRANSLATED BY ELIZABETH GILl
TIA VICTORIA'S SPANISH KITCHEN
Omelet with Liver
Omelette de Foye de Lapin ou de Levrau
The original version of this recipe calls for the liver of a rabbit
or a leveret -a young European hare.
To serve 2
4 eggs, beaten 4
2 chicken livers, coarsely chopped and 2
pounded
1 tbsp. fines herbes 15 mi.
salt and white pepper
2 tbsp. lard, melted 30 mi.
2 tbsp. lamb roasting juices 30 mi.
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 30ml.
Beat the liver and herbs into the eggs, and season with salt
and pepper. Add half of the melted lard. Heat the remaining
lard in a medium-sized omelet pan, pour in the egg mixture
and cook until the omelet is almost set. Roll it as you slide it
out of the pan onto a warmed serving dish. Sprinkle it with
the lamb juices or stock and with the lemon juice, and serve.
PIERRE DE LUNE
LE NOUVEAU CUISINIER
129
OMELETS
6
1 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
Veal Kidney Omelet
Frittata colla Pietra di V itella di Latte
To serve 4
eggs, beaten
veal kianey, encased in its fat
oil
salt and pepper
chopped fresh parsley
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
butter
6
15 mi.
15 mi.
30 mi.
Halve the kidney lengthwise; leave on all of its fat. Brush
the kidney with oil, season it with salt and pepper, and broil
it for four minutes on each side, or until it is cooked through.
Cut it crosswise into small, thin slices. Season the eggs with
salt and pepper and mix in the parsley and cheese. Add the
kidney slices and mix well.
Melt the butter in a large omelet pan and, when it stops
foaming, pour in the egg mixture. When the omelet is almost
set, fold it in half and slide it onto a warmed serving dish.
4
2 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
PELLEGRINO ARTUS!
LA SCIENZA IN CUCINA E L'ARTE 01 MANGIAR BENE
Parsley and Anchovy Omelet
Omelette aux Fines Herbes
To serve 2
eggs, beaten
chopped fresh parsley
salt anchovy, fi lleted, soaked in water
for 30 minutes, drained, patted dry
ond chopped
salt and pepper
butter
oil
4
30 mi.
15ml.
30 mi.
Season the eggs with salt and pepper, and mix in the parsley
and the anchovy.
Heat the butter and oil in a medium-sized omelet pan
and, when hot, pour in the eggs. When the eggs are set, tilt
the pan and fold the omelet by letting it roll forward. It
should still be creamy in t he center .
130
CHARLES DURAND
LE CUISINIER DURAND
Scots Omelet
Milt is the reproductive gland of male fish, and is sometimes
called soft roe because it is softer than the egg-filled roe of
female fish. If herring milt is not available, substitute 2 pairs
of female herring roe.
To serve 4
6 eggs, beaten 6
4 fresh herring milts (soft roe) 4
salt
cayenne pepper
1 tbsp. finely cut fresh chives 15 mi.
1 tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley 15 mi.
1 tbsp. finely chopped fresh chervil 15 mi.
4 thin slices smoked salmon 4
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
2 tbsp. fines herbes 30 mi.
Sprinkle the milt with salt, cayenne, chives, parsley and
chervil. Wrap each milt in a slice of the smoked salmon and
cook over gentle heat in 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of t he butter
for five minutes.
While t he milt is cooking, season the eggs and beat into
them the fines herbes. Then heat the remaining butter in a
medium-sized omelet pan. Pour in the eggs and cook the
omelet for about two minutes, or until it is al most set. Set the
wrapped milt aslant in the center of the omelet, roll it up and
serve it immediat ely.
F. MARIAN MC NEILL
THE BOOK OF BREAKFASTS
Carp Roe Omelet
Aumelette Farcie en Maigre
Shad or herring may be substituted for carp roe.
Variations on this omelet may be made by using pound
[125 g.] of chicken breast or veal kidney instead of the carp
roe. Slice or dice the meat fine and half-cook it in butter.
Season it well, adding, if you like, 1 teaspoon [5 ml.] of
chopped candied lemon peel. Alternatively, you may use %
cup [150 ml.] of sliced fresh mushrooms, stewed with
pound of finely sliced rabbit liver and seasoned with 2 tea-
spoons [10 ml.] of fines herbes.
To serve 4 to 6
12 eggs, beaten 12
Y2 lb. fresh carp rae, sliced y4 kg.
5 tbsp. butter 75 mi.
%lb. fresh mushrooms, thinly sl iced 125 g.
salt and white pepper
2 tbsp. fines herbes 30 mi.
Melt 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] ofthe butter and saute the mush-
rooms-seasoned with the salt, pepper and fines herbes-
over high heat for a minute or two. Reduce the heat, add the
roe, cover and stew them gently until firm, about five min-
utes. Cool. Season the eggs and add the roe mixture to them.
Heat the remaining butter in a large omelet pan. When
the butter is foamy and beginning to brown, pour in the egg
mixture. Stir once, and allow the omelet to set, lifting the
edges so that the liquid egg runs underneath. When the
bottom of the omelet is set and golden, but the top is still soft,
turn the omelet out of the pan onto a warmed serving plate,
inverting it so that the golden surface is uppermost.
6
2 cups
2 tbsp.
1 tsp.
l cup
3 tbsp.
L'ESCOLE PARFAITE DES OFFICIERS DE BOUCHE
Egg Foo Yong
To serve 3
eggs
bean sprouts, washed and drained
finely chapped anion
sal t
pepper
crab meat, cooked shrimp or ather fish
salad ail
Soy-flavored sauce
light Chinese say sauce or Japanese
soy sauce
1 tbsp. sugar
1 tbsp. cornstarch
1 Y2 cups water
6
Y2 liter
30 mi.
5 mi.
Y4 liter
45 mi.
15 mi.
15 mi.
375 mi.
The batter can be made ahead. Beat the eggs. Add the bean
sprouts, onion, salt, pepper to taste, and the crab meat,
shrimp or fish. Refrigerate, if desired. To serve, beat to mix
again. Grease a skillet with a little salad oil. Cook six sepa-
rate pancakes on both sides until golden brown. Keep them
warm as they are done.
Make a sauce as follows, preparing the mixture ahead of
time: Mix the sugar and cornstarch; add the soy sauce and
water. When ready to serve, cook the mixture until thick-
ened, stirring occasionally. Serve hot with hot pancakes.
MARIAN BURROS
PURE & SIMPLE
Hangtown Fry
According to some Californians, Hangtown Fry was created
in 1849. A miner from Shirttail Bend hailed into Hangtown
with a poke full of nuggets, plonked his fortune down on the
counter of Cary House, and said he wanted the finest, most
expensive meal they had. When he was told that oysters and
eggs were the most expensive items on the menu (in those
days whisky was $1,500 a barrel, turnips a dollar each), he
told the cook to put them together and serve up the food. The
dish was made, originally, with the small Pacific Coast
Olympic oysters.
To serve 4
9 eggs 9
12 live oysters, shucked and drained on 12
absorbent paper
2 tbsp. flour 30 mi.
salt and pepper
1 cup cracker crumbs Y4 liter
3 tbsp. butter
45 mi.
Beat one egg well. Season the flour with salt and pepper. Dip
each oyster in the flour, then in the beaten egg, last of all in
the cracker crumbs. Heat the butter and fry the oysters in it
over medium heat for about five minutes, or until nicely
browned on both sides.
Beat the remaining eight eggs with salt and pepper. Pour
them over the oysters and cook for about five minutes, or
until the mixture is firm on the bottom. Turn the omelet
with a large spatula and cook the second side for a minute or
two longer, or until set.
THE EDITORS OF AMERICAN HERITAGE
THE AMERICAN HERITAGE COOKBOOK
131
OMELETS/CUSTARDS, PUDDINGS AND SOUFFLtS
Oyster Omelet
Omelette aux Huitres
If you prefer to buy the oysters already shucked, be sure to ask
the fish store to reserve their liquor for you.
It is essential to drain the oysters thoroughly before they
are cooked, otherwise the liquor they contain will keep the
oysters from mixing properly with the eggs once the omelet
has set, and the appearance of the dish will be spoiled.
To serve 6
12 eggs 12
36 live oysters in thei r shells 36
Y4 cup chopped fresh parsley 50 mi.
2 tbsp. heavy cream 30 mi.
pepper
2 thick slices dry bread, cut into Y2 -inch 2
[1 -cm.] cubes
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Open the oysters over a saucepan in order to catch all of their
liquor. Remove and discard their shells and put the oysters
in the pan with the liquor. Place the pan over low heat until
the oysters begin to whiten. Drain the oysters; strain and
reserve the liquor.
Break the eggs into a large bowl. Add the parsley, cream
and 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the reserved oyster liquor. Sea-
son with pepper and beat rapidly for about one minute.
For the croutons, dry and lightly toast the cubes of bread
in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for about 20 minutes.
Melt half of the butter in a large omelet pan and, when it is
quite hot, pour in half of the beaten eggs. When the eggs
begin to set, add half of the oysters and half of the croutons.
Continue cooking, fold the finished omelet and keep it hot.
Make a second omelet in the same way and serve both om-
elets very hot.
CELINE VENCE AND ROBERT COURTINE
THE GRAND MASTERS OF FRENCH CUISINE
Cold Omelet Loaf
Gateau de Crespeus
This gateau is a loaf of multitiered omelets. Be organized
when you make it. Prepare the fi ve basic flavorings plus the
sorrel puree and line them up in bowls near the stove. Before
cooking the omelets, line up five plates or a couple of large
132
platters so as to be able to stack omelet s of different fl avors
separately. Keep a flexible spatula at hand just in case an
omelet should stick to the pan (should t his happen -even
though the omelet has been successfully turned out and the
pan appears to be clean-rub the pan with salt before con-
tinuing to the next omelet).
Count about 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of olive oil for the
cooking of each omelet and reheat the pan for a few seconds
each time before beginning another. The omelets should be
from 1.4 to Yz inch [6 mm. to 1 em.] thick, depending on the
material (the zucchini and spinach omelets will be thicker
than the olive and mushroom omelet s; the tomato mixture is
more flexible).
A salad of cucumbers in a dill-flavored lemon-and-cream
sauce is an exquisite accompaniment.
To serve 12 to 15
about 20 eggs, lightly beaten about 20
4 or 5 smal l firm zucchini (about 1 lb. 4 or 5
[Y2 kg. ]), trimmed and coarsely grated
10 tbsp.
1 tsp.
3Y2 to
4 oz.
2
Y2 tsp.
1 lb.
2 tbsp.
10 oz.
1 cup
213 cup
or cut into julienne
salt
olive oil
finely chopped fresh marjoram
f lowers (or Y2 tsp. [2 mi.] dried
marjoram or crumbled fresh oregano)
onion, halved and thi nly sli ced
green pepper (t he frying variety, if
possible), halved lengthwise, seeded
and sli ced t hin crosswise
ripe fi rm tomatoes, peeled, seeded
and coarsely chopped
large garlic clove, crushed slightly,
peeled and sliced thin
sugar
cayenne pepper
spi nach, stems removed
firm fresh mushrooms, very thinly
sli ced
butter
pepper
sorrel, stems removed
natural black olives (no vinegar),
pitted or wi t h flesh removed and
coarsely chopped
heavy cream
First , prepar e the various fl avorings as follows.
150 mi.
5 mi.
100to
125 g.
2
2 mi.
Y2 kg.
125 g.
30 mi.
300 g.
Y4 liter
150 mi.
Arrange the zucchini in layers in a mixing bowl, each
layer sprinkled with salt. Leave to stand for about 30 min-
utes and press the mass together, squeezing to release t he
water. Pour the contents of the bowl into a sieve and, taking
the mass in both hands, squeeze tightly and repeatedly to rid
the zucchini of all the liquid possible. Saute in 2 tablespoons
[30 ml. ) of olive oil over relatively high heat, tossing regu-
larly, for six to seven minutes. Add the marjoram or oregano
after removing from the heat.
Stew the onion and pepper gently in 3 tablespoons [ 45
ml.) of olive oil until soft, stirring regularly -10 to 15 min-
utes. Add the tomatoes, garlic, sugar, salt and a small pinch
of cayenne pepper. Toss the mixture for about a minute over
high heat, then cook gently at a simmer, tossing occasional-
ly, for about 15 minutes. Toss for another couple of minutes
over high heat until all of the liquid has evaporated.
Parboil the spinach in a large quantity of generously
salted, rapidly boiling water-two or three minutes only.
Drain, rinse in cold water, squeeze tightly and repeatedly
with both hands, and chop. If you like, you can saute the
chopped spinach briefly in butter for extra flavor.
Saute the mushrooms in 1 tablespoon [15 ml.) of butter,
seasoned with salt and pepper, over high heat, tossing re-
peatedly, until their liquid is completely reabsorbed (three
or four minutes-or more, depending on the size of the pan).
Cut the sorrel into a fine chiffonade and put it directly to
stew, salted, in 1 tablespoon of butter over low heat, stirring
from time to time, for about 20 to 30 minutes, until all liquid
is evaporated and the sorrel is reduced to a puree. Season the
eggs with pepper (no salt-or very little). Make two omelets
each from the zucchini, tomatoes, spinach, mushrooms and
olives-first putting half of each of these preparations into a
soup plate and stirring in enough egg to bind well: The zuc-
chini will take little-the equivalent of something less than
one egg for each omelet; the tomato mixture will require
about double that of the zucchini, etc. Salt each to taste,
bearing in mind the amount of seasoning in the original
preparations-it is possible that only the spinach will re-
quire additional salt. Use a 7-inch [18-cm.) omelet pan. The
remaining olive oil should suffice for cooking the omelets.
Cut two rounds ofkitchen parchment paper to the dimen-
sions of the top and bottom of a 2-quart [2-liter) charlotte
mold or round enameled ironware casserole about 7 inches
in diameter. Butter the mold liberally, butter both sides of
one round of paper for the bottom, and press it carefully into
the bottom of the mold, leaving no air spaces or unstuck
edges where the egg might run beneath.
Whisk together the sorrel puree, the cream and the re-
mainder of the beaten eggs, adding more eggs if necessary-
there should be the equivalent of about five eggs in the mix-
ture. Salt and pepper to taste.
Pour a small ladle of sorrel cream into the bottom of the
mold and stack the omelets in alternating colors and flavors,
pressing each gently into place and pouring a small bit of
sorrel cream over each before placing another. Pour in
enough sorrel cream to barely submerge the omelets, tap the
bottom of the mold smartly against a muffied tabletop (a
couple of folded towels on it to soften the blow) to settle the
contents and chase out any trapped air bubbles, and add
more of the sorrel cream if necessary for the top omelet to be
just covered (if there is any left over, it can be poached in a
small buttered mold apart). Butter the other round of paper
and place it, buttered side down, on the surface.
Place the mold in a water bath so that it is immersed to
about two thirds its height in boiling water, and cook in a
preheated 375 F. [190 C.) oven for about 45 minutes, mak-
ing certain that the center of the loaf is firm and elastic to
slight pressure before removing it from the oven.
Let the loaf cool for about one hour until only just tepid.
Lift the paper off the surface, run a knife all around the
sides, and unmold onto a serving dish (placing the dish up-
side down over the mold and turning it and the mold over
together). If not to be served immediately, press plastic wrap
over the entire surface to protect it from contact with the air,
and refrigerate.
Just before serving, decorate it simply (a ribbon of
chopped parsley or fines herbes strung around the edge and a
rosette of finely sliced tomato in the center, for instance;
pitted black olives sliced into rings or chopped hard-boiled
egg yolks are also good decorative elements). To serve, cut
into approximately 'h-inch [1-cm.) slices, using a spatula to
transfer them to individual plates.
l cup
2 cups
2
l tsp.
RICHARD OLNEY
SIMPLE FRENCH FOOD
'"Puddings
and t>ouffles
Cheese Custard
To serve 4
shredded Cheddar cheese
milk
eggs, lightly beaten
salt and pepper
cayenne pepper
prepared mustard
Y4 liter
Y2 liter
2
5 mi.
Stir the cheese and milk over low heat until the cheese has
melted; the milk must not boil. Remove the pan from the
heat, add the eggs and season with salt, pepper, a pinch of
cayenne and the mustard. Pour the mixture into a buttered
1-quart [1-liter) ovenproof dish, or into four individual cas-
seroles or ramekins, and bake in a preheated 350 F. [180
C.) oven until set, about 20 minutes for a large dish and 10
minutes for small ones.
MARY MAC KIRDY
RECIPES FOR YOU
133
CUSTARDS, PUDDINGS AND SOUFFLtS
Chinese Savory Custard
To serve 4
4 eggs 4
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
Y4 tsp. pepper 1 mi.
2 tsp. soy sauce 10ml.
2 cups hot chicken stock (recipe, page 164) Y2 liter
4 chopped scallions 4
Beat the eggs; add the salt, pepper and soy sauce; gradually
stir the mixture into the stock; blend; pour into a heatproof
dish; sprinkle with scallions; cover and cook on a trivet in a
bain-marie until the custard sets. Serve with r ice.
NINA FROUD
THE WORLD BOOK OF EGG AND CHEESE DISHES
Steamed Egg Custard
with Bean Curd
Koya Mushi
The original version of this recipe calls for yurine, or lily root,
a Japanese root vegetable with a slightly sweet taste. It is not
available in the United States. Yuri, a dried lily flower, can be
substituted. Mitsuba, or trefoil, is a pungent herb used in
salads and soups. Dashi is a J apanese soup stock that can be
made by dissolving 3 tablespoons [45 ml.] of dried dashi in
1 V2 quarts [1 % liters] of boiling water. Yuri, mitsuba, dried
dashi and tofu (bean curd) are available from Oriental gro-
cers. Sake (rice wine) is sold at liquor stores.
6
1 lb.
12
2 tbsp.
6
1 Y2
quarts
2 oz.
To serve 6
eggs, lightly beaten
fresh tofu, drained under a weight for
20 to 30 minutes, and cut into 2-inch
[5-cm.] squares
fresh sea scallops
salt
sake (optional)
large fresh mushrooms, stems trimmed
yuri, separated into segments, soaked
in warm water for one hour (optional)
dashi or chicken stock (recipe, page 164)
mitsuba or fresh spinach or watercress,
coarsely chopped
6
Y2 kg.
12
30 mi.
6
1 Y2
liters
60g.
Arrange the tofu in t he bottoms of six individual buttered
casseroles. Season t he scallops with a little salt and, if de-
134
sired, a sprinkling of sake. Arrange the scallops, mushrooms
and yuri segments on top of t he tofu.
Heat the stock to tepid and gradually add it to the eggs,
mixing well. Strain this custard and pour it carefull y into
the casseroles. Put t he casseroles in a baking pan and pour
boiling water into the pan until it comes halfway up their
sides. Bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 15 min-
utes. Add the greens to the casseroles, gently pushing them
down into the custard. Return to the oven and continue to
bake unt il set, about 20 minut es more. Serve hot.
8
%cup
%cup
%cup
1 cup
3
.4 cup
2 tbsp.
1 tsp.
2I:J cup
1 Y4 cups
PETER AND JOAN MARTIN
JAPANESE COOKING
Farmer's Wife Egg Loaf
Pain d'Oeuf a la Fermiere
To serve 6 to 8
eggs, beaten
thinly sliced carrot
thinly sliced turni p
freshly shelled peas
thinly sl iced green beans
thinly sliced peeled potato
butter
salt and pepper
sugar
grated nutmeg
whi te sauce (recipe, page 165)
heavy cream
8
175 mi.
175 mi.
175 mi.
Y4 liter
175 mi.
30 mi.
5 mi.
150 mi.
300 mi.
Cook all the vegetables for 15 minutes with the butter, salt
and sugar in a saucepan with a tightly fitting lid, adding a
very little water if the vegetables are not young and fresh.
Meanwhile, add salt, pepper and nutmeg to the eggs,
then add the white sauce and half ofthe cream. Butter a deep
2-quart [2-liter] timbale or charlotte mold, pour in t he mix-
ture, and cook in a baking dish of water in an oven preheated
to 375 F. [190 C.] for 15 to 18 minutes, or until the eggs are
just set. Turn the egg mold onto a round serving dish and
cover it with the remaining cream, lightly salted. Arrange
t he vegetable garnish around the edges.
LE CORDON BLEU
2
21b.
Y2 tsp.
1 cup
1 tsp.
3 tbsp.
6
Y2 cup
1 cup
Spinach Timbales
witll Ripe Olive Sauce
To serve 6
eggs, beaten
spinach, parboiled for 2 minutes,
drained, squeezed dry and finely
chopped
garlic clove
salt
milk
fresh lemon juice
butter
pepper
toast rounds
Ripe olive sauce
chopped ripe pitted olives
white sauce (recipe, page 165)
fresh lemon juice
salt and pepper
2
1 kg.
2 mi.
Y4 liter
5 mi.
45 mi.
6
125 mi.
% liter
Pound the garlic and salt to a paste in a mortar. Add the
garlic paste to the chopped spinach. Mix in the milk, beaten
eggs, lemon juice, melted butter and a little fresh pepper,
with more salt if necessary. Pour the mixture into six but-
tered custard cups. Place the custard cups in a bain-marie
and bake in a preheated 325 F. [160 C.] oven for about 30
minutes, or until the timbales are firm.
Meanwhile, heat the white sauce in a saucepan. Add the
ripe olives, fresh lemon juice, and salt and pepper to taste.
Turn the timbales out onto the toast rounds and pour the
ripe olive sauce over them.
HELEN BROWN
HELEN BROWN'S WEST COAST COOK BOOK
Cheese and Egg Custard
Pain d'Oeufs ala Villageoise
The technique for preparing this custard demonstrates an
alternative way to use the salt-pork dice: sprinkled into the
bottom of the mold rather than incorporated into the egg-and-
cheese mixture.
If the cheese used is very soft, drain off its excess liquid
before using it. To do this, wrap the cheese in muslin or a
double thickness of cheesecloth, then tie the corners of the
cloth to form a bag and suspend the bag -on a wooden spoon
set over a deep pot or bowl-for 30 minutes or so.
lib.
10
7 tbsp.
2 cups
3
/.! cup
To serve 8 to 10
farmer or pot cheese
eggs, beaten
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
butter, beaten until soft (optional)
tepid milk
salt pork with t he rind removed, diced,
blanched in boiling water for
5 minutes, and drained
heavy cream, warmed
10
100 mi.
Y2 liter
100 g.
175 mi.
Fry the salt -pork dice for two to three minutes, or until they
start to crisp. Drain them. In a bowl, mix the cheese with the
salt and pepper and a pinch of nutmeg. Add the butter, un-
less the cheese is very rich and creamy. Stir the eggs and
t hen the milk into the cheese. Add the pork dice.
Pour the cheese mixture into one buttered 2-quart [2-
liter] charlotte mold, or two buttered 1-quart [1-liter] molds.
Place the mold, or molds, in a bain-marie, and bake in a
preheated 325 F. [170 C.] oven until the custard has set,
about 40 minutes for two smaller molds, at least one hour for
t he large mold. Remove the custard from the bain-marie and
let it settle for 10 minutes.
To serve, unmold the custard and pour the cream over
it. Serve it hot.
1 cup
1 cup
2
PHILEAS GILBERT
LA CUISINE DE TOUSLES MOIS
Cheese and Bacon Cream
Creme au Lard
To serve 2 to 4
shredded cheese (preferably
Gruyere)
heavy cream
egg, beaten
thin slices bacon, fried until crisp,
drained and broken into small pieces
2
Mix the cheese, cream and egg together well; aad the crisp
bacon pieces. Fill four buttered, individual souffle dishes
(one for each person) with the mixture and bake the creams
in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for about 20 minutes,
until the mixture is set and slightly browned.
X. MARCEL BOULESTIN
A SECOND HELPING OR MORE DISHES FOR ENGLISH HOMES
135
CUSTARDS, PUDDINGS AND SOUFFLtS
6
2 cups
1 cup
Mother Poustiquet's Timbales
La Timbale de la Mere Poustiquet
To serve 6
eggs, 3 hard-boiled and finely diced,
3 beaten
finely diced cooked ham
heavy cream
shredded Gruyere cheese
salt and pepper
6
Y2 liter
Y4 liter
50 mi.
Mix t he diced hard-boiled eggs with the ham; add the cream
and then the cheese. Add the beaten eggs to the mixture.
Season lightly, remembering that the ham may be salty.
Butter six individual ovenproof dishes and fill them with
the mixture. Bake the timbales in a bain-marie in a preheat-
ed 375 F. [190 C. ] oven for 20 minutes. Serve hot in the
individual dishes.
CAROLINE MIQUEL
LES BONNES RECETIES DE TANTE CAROLINE
Parmesan Egg Timbales
Oeufs a la Parmesane
Meat glaze is dark, strong meat stock reduced by boiling to a
syrup. It is added to gravy and sauces to improve the taste.
Gruyere cheese may be substituted for the Parmesan
that is sprinkled over the finished dish.
To serve 3
7 eggs, 6 eggs beaten 7
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
salt and pepper
2 tbsp. heavy cream or white sauce (recipe, 30 mi.
page 165)
%cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 175 mi.
1 cup tomatosauce(recipe, page 166) Y4 liter
2 tbsp. meat glaze, or Y4 cup [50 mi.] beef 30 mi.
stock (recipe, page 164) boiled to
reduce it by half, and cooled
Place the beaten eggs in a saucepan with the butter, season
with salt and pepper, and add the cream or white sauce.
136
Scramble the eggs over low heat, or over hot water, stirring
with a whisk until they form a thick cream but are not yet
set. Remove from the heat and add % cup [150 ml. ] of the
cheese, then stir in the remaining egg.
Fill individual buttered timbale molds with this mix-
ture, place them in a roasting pan of hot water, and bake in a
preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven for three to four minutes, or
until the eggs are set like a custard.
Unmold the eggs onto a warmed round serving dish. Mix
the tomato sauce with the meat glaze and pour it over the
eggs. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese, and serve.
LE CORDON BLEU
Ham and Cheese Pudding
Nelle Savoyarde
To serve 4
6 eggs, beaten 6
10 to 12 slices cooked ham 10 to 12
Y2 cup shredded Gruyere cheese 125 mi.
3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 150 mi.
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
3 tbsp. fl our 45 mi.
2 cups milk Y2 liter
salt and pepper
nutmeg
tomato sauce (recipe, page 166)
Line a buttered charlotte mold with the ham slices. Melt the
butter and blend in the flour. Gradually add the milk and
cook, stirring, until this sauce is thick and smooth. Season to
taste with salt, pepper and a little nutmeg; stir in the cheese.
Remove the sauce from the heat and stir in the eggs.
Pour the sauce into the ham-lined mold and place foil on
the mold, tying it down firmly. Place the mold on a rack over
boiling water in a deep kettle, cover the kettle and steam the
pudding for one and a quarter hours, replenishing the water
when it evaporates too much.
Remove the mold from the steamer and take off the foil.
Bake it in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 15 to 20
minutes, or until it is completely set . Unmold it and serve
with the tomato sauce.
JAMES BEARD
HOW TO EAT BETIER FOR LESS MONEY
Anchovy and Egg Custard
Anjouismunahyydyke
This dish may be made with canned Scandinavian sprat fil-
lets, smoked herring or kipper fillets.
6
12
2 cups
To serve 4
eggs
oil-packed flat anchovy fillets, rinsed
and patted dry
mi lk
salt and pepper
6
12
Y2 liter
Bring the milk almost to a boil, then remove it from the heat
and let it cool a little. Meanwhile, fork the eggs lightly to-
gether, with a little seasoning, and combine them with the
milk. Stir a little, but do not beat.
Dispose the anchovy fillets in the bottom of a buttered 2-
to 4-cup [lh- to 1-liter] ovenproof dish, pour the mixture over
them and set the dish to cook in a bain-marie in an oven
preheated to 400 F. [200 C.].
It will be ready in 40 minutes, when the custard is set.
ALAN DAVIDSON
NORTH ATLANTIC SEAFOOD
Mystery Eggs
Oeufs a l'Intrigue
To serve 8 to 10
24 eggs, 18 beaten, 6 poached
1 Y4 cups heavy cream
salt and pepper
% cup finely chopped scallions
Y2 cup
4 tbsp.
1 cup
4
2 tbsp.
fines herbes
butter
diced Gruyere cheese
salt anchovies, filleted, soaked in
water for 30 minutes, drained, patted
dry and diced
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
fresh lemon juice
24
300 mi.
175 mi.
125 mi.
60 mi.
Y4 liter
4
50 mi.
30 mi.
Mix the beaten eggs with the cream, salt and pepper, scal-
lions and fines herbes. Heat half of the butter in a wide
shallow fireproof casserole, and pour in a third of the beaten
egg mixture. Allow it to set over medium heat. Cover this
layer with half of the Gruyere and half of the anchovies, and
arrange three poached eggs on top.
Pour in another third of the beaten egg mixture, cover
the casserole and cook until the beaten eggs are almost set.
Cover with the remaining Gruyere, anchovies and poached
eggs. Pour in the rest of the beaten eggs. When the last layer
ofbeaten eggs is almost set, dot the top with butter, sprinkle
it with Parmesan and place the dish in a preheated 400 F.
[200 C.] oven for about 10 minutes, or until the top is set and
golden. Sprinkle with lemon juice and serve.
PIERRE DE LUNE
LE NOUVEAU CUISINIER
Bread Pudding with Sliced Cheese
Ramequin mit Kasescheiben
To serve 4
8 slices Gruyere cheese (about Y2 lb. [ Y4 kg.]) 8
8 slices bread
8
2Y2 cups milk 625 mi.
2 eggs, lightly beaten 2
salt
grated nutmeg
Place alternate layers of bread and cheese in a buttered,
deep pie dish or shallow 1-quart [1-liter] casserole, with the
slices overlapping in each layer. Finish with a layer of
cheese. Mix together the milk, eggs, salt and nutmeg to
taste, and pour the mixture over the bread and cheese. Stand
the pie dish in a bain-marie and bake for 30 minutes in a
preheated 425 F. [220 C.] oven. The top should be golden
and t he egg-and-milk mixture set.
EVA MARIA BORER
TANTE HEIDI'S SWISS KITCHEN
Cheese Pudding
To serve 2
1 cup shredded Cheshire cheese Y4 liter
1 Y4 cups mil k 300 mi.
1 Y2 cups fresh bread crumbs 375 mi.
2 eggs, the yolks separated from the
whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
2
salt and pepper
1 tsp. English prepared mustard 5ml.
Boil the milk, stir in the crumbs, take the pan from the
heat and add the cheese, egg yolks and seasoning. Fold in
the whites, and pour the mixture into a buttered 1-quart
[1-liter] ovenproof dish. Bake the pudding in an oven pre-
heated to 375 F. [190 C.] for 20 to 25 minutes, or until it is
brown and set. Serve hot.
MARY MAC KIRDY
RECIPES FOR YOU
137
CUSTARDS, PUDDINGS AND SOUFFLtS
Cheddar Cheese Pudding
The original version of this recipe specifies farmhouse Ched-
dar, an English white Cheddar that may range in flavor from
mild to sharp.
To serve 2
Y2 cup shredded Cheddar cheese 125 mi.
1 Y4 cups milk 300 mi.
1 cup fresh white bread crumbs Y4 liter
salt and pepper
Y2 tsp. prepared mustard 2 mi.
1 egg, lightly beaten 1
Boil the milk, pour it over the bread crumbs, add the cheese,
seasonings and mustard, and stir in the egg. Pour the mix-
ture into a buttered 2V2-cup [625-ml.] deep-dish pie dish or
casserole, and bake in a preheated 375 F. [190 C. ] oven for
about 30 minutes, or until golden brown and well risen.
AUDREY PARKER
C01"rAGE AND COUNTRY RECIPES
Swiss Cheese Ramekin
Waadtliinder Kiiseauflauf
There are almost as many recipes for this dish as there are
Swiss cantons. One alternative ver sion is to arrange thick
slices of bread and cheese in layers in the dish , and pour on
the well-seasoned egg and milk mixture.
1 Y4 to
1% cups
4
2 cups
8
7 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
To serve 4
grated Emmentaler cheese
eggs, the yol ks separated from the
whites, and the whi tes stiffly beaten
sal t
grated nutmeg
milk, or 1 cup[ % li ter] milk and
1 cup cream
thick slices fi rm-textured white bread
butter
kirsch
300to
425 mi.
4
Y2 liter
8
105 mi.
30 mi.
Whisk the egg yolks with salt, nutmeg to taste and the
cheese. Gradually add the milk, or milk and cream, and
finally fold in the egg whites. Fry the bread in the butter
until it is golden brown on both sides.
Arrange the bread slices in layers in a buttered 22-quart
[2Yz-liter] souffie dish, add the kirsch and pour in the egg
mixt ure. Bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 30 t o
40 minutes or until golden. Serve immediately.
138
GRETE WILLINSKY
KULINARISCHE WELTREISE
Farmer's Loaf
To serve 4
1 lb. cottage cheese Y2 kg.
4 tbsp. butter, softened 60 mi.
1 cup diced cooked ham Y4 liter
6 eggs, well beaten 6
salt and pepper
Butter sauce
6 tbsp. butter 90 mi.
1 tbsp. fl our 15 mi.
%cup salted water 150 mi.
5 tbsp. heavy cream (optional) 75 mi.
Put the cot tage cheese into a bowl and work into it the soft-
ened butter. Mix in the diced ham. Salt and pepper the eggs
well, work them by degrees into the cheese and ham, and
then pour t he mixture into a buttered 1 liz- to 2-quart [1 Y2- to
2-liter] ovenproof mold. Stand the mold in a pan of water and
put it into a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for one hour
until it is set. Turn it out onto a dish, and serve either hot
with butter sauce or cold with salad.
For the sauce, melt 4 t ablespoons [60 ml.] of the butter in
a saucepan, add the flour and stir unt il it is well blended,
then add the wat er gradually until all of it is absorbed, stir-
ring const antly so that no lumps can form. Let the mixture
boil for a minute or two, then take the pan off the stove and
stir in the remaining butter as soon as the sauce has ceased
to boil. A littl e cream is a great improvement, added when
the last of the butter has been smoothly absorbed.
MARY A YLE'IT
COUNTRY FARE
Steamed Bacon and Egg Pudding
Toserve 4
4 eggs, slightly beaten 4
4 sli ces bacon, diced and fried until crisp 4
6 s l i e ~ stale bread 6
butter
salt and pepper
1 quart mil k 1 liter
Cut the bread slices into finger s and use half of them to line a
deep buttered dish. Sprinkle the slices with the bacon and its
fat ; cover with the remaining bread slices. Season the eggs to
t aste. Heat the milk almost to the boiling point, remove it
from the heat and gradually st ir it into the eggs. Pour the
egg mixture over the bread and let it stand for 20 to 30
minutes. Set the dish in a pan of hot water and bake in a
preheated 375 F. [190 C.] oven for 45 minutes. Serve the
pudding from the same dish.
NINA FROUD
THE WORLD BOOK OF EGG AND CHEESE DISHES
Perfect Cheddar Cheese Souffle
To serve 6
1 Y2 cups shredded Cheddar cheese 375 mi.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
2 tbsp. flour 30 mi.
1 Y4 cups milk 300 mi.
3 egg yolks 3
1 tsp. salt 5ml.
Y2 cup finely cut fresh dill leaves or chives 125 mi.
5 egg whites, stiffly beaten 5
Melt the butter in a saucepan. When it has stopped foaming,
add the flour and mix well. Slowly add the milk and stir until
the sauce is thick. Remove the pan from the heat and beat in
the egg yolks, one at a time, then all but 1 tablespoon [15
ml. ] of the shredded cheese, t he salt and the dill or chives.
Stir about one third of the egg whites into the yolk mixture
and fold in t he rest. Do not overmix.
Put the souffle in a buttered 6-cup [1 liz-liter] souffl e dish.
Sprinkle the remaining tablespoon of cheese on top. Bake in
a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven for 30 to 35 minutes, or
until the souffl e has risen and the top is golden brown.
1 Y2 lb.
20
2Y2 cups
2Y2 cups
1 tbsp.
6
SONDRA GOTLIEB
THE GOURMETS CANADA
Pizza Souffle
To serve 6
mozzarella, Bel Poese or Fontino
cheese, sliced
thin slices bread
milk
tomato sauce ( recipe, page 166)
finely chopped fresh oregano
eggs
4 to 5 tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese
3 tbsp. butter, cut into small pieces
%kg.
20
625 mi.
625 mi.
15 mi.
6
60 to 75 mi.
45 mi.
Soak the bread sli ces in the milk for 15 minutes, then drain
off the excess liquid. Line the bott om of a buttered 2 'lz- to
3-quart [2 liz- to 3-liter] casserole with bread slices. Top the
slices with a layer of tomato sauce, sprinkle with a bit of
oregano and add a layer of cheese.
Continue making the layers, fini shing by covering the
last layer of bread with just t he tomato sauce and oregano.
The casserole should be nearly full.
Beat the eggs wit h t he Parmesan cheese. Pour the mix-
ture over t he bread and, with a fork, pierce through the
layers in three or four places until the egg mixture is com-
pletely absorbed by the bread.
Distribute t he butter pieces over the top, and bake the
casserole in a preheat ed 350 F. [180 C. ] oven for about one
hour, or unti l the top is browned and puffed.
1 Y4 cups
5 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
1 cup
4
LES PETITS PLATS ET LES GRANDS
Cheese Souffle
Souffle au Fromage
To serve 4
shredded Gruyere cheese
butter
flour
milk, heated to boiling
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
eggs, the yolks separated from the
whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
300 mi.
75 mi.
45 mi.
Y4 li ter
4
In a heavy saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons [60 ml. ] of the but-
ter over medium heat. Stir in the flour and, when the mix-
ture is smooth, gradually stir in the boiling milk. Season the
sauce with salt , pepper and a little nut meg. Cook, stirring,
until the sauce thickens, about five minutes.
Off the heat, stir in the remaining butter. Then add the
egg yolks, one by one, stirring vigorously with a wooden
spatula after each addition. Add all but 1 tablespoon [15 ml. ]
of the shredded cheese, and fold in the egg whites.
Pour the mixture into a buttered 1 liz-quart [1 liz-liter]
souffle dish. It should come halfway up t he sides of t he dish.
Sprinkle the top with the remaining cheese. Bake t he souffle
in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or
until the souffle is well risen and the top is browned. Serve
immediately from t he baking dish.
EUGENI E BRAZIER
LES SECRETS DE LA MERE BRAZIER
139
CUSTARDS, PUDDINGS AND SOUFFLtS
Swiss Souffles
Souffles a la Suissesse
The technique of preparing Swiss souffles is demonstrated
on pages 78-79.
The composition of these souffies differs from that of an
ordinary cheese souffie only in that the latt er contains one
more beaten egg white. The final result in no way r esembles
a classic souffie, but more nearly brings to mind quenelles.
about
1 cup
1 cup
about
Y3 cup
2 tbsp.
3
2
1 Y2 cups
To serve 6
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
mil k
flour
salt
freshly ground whi te pepper
freshly grated nutmeg
butter
egg yolks
egg whites, stiffly beaten
heavy cream
about
Y4 liter
Y4 liter
about
75 mi.
30 mi.
3
2
375 mi.
Bring the milk to a boil, leave until lukewarm and pour it
slowly into the flour, stirring to avoid lumping. Season with
salt, pepper and nutmeg and, stirring constantly with a
wooden spoon, cook over medium heat until thickened.
Leave to cool for several minutes. Add the butter, something
over half of the grated cheese, and the egg yolks, and mix
thoroughly. Fold the egg whites in gently but thoroughly.
Butter six individual molds or porcelain ramekins, spoon
them about two thirds full of the mixture, place them in a
large pan, and pour enough hot but not boiling water into the
pan to immerse them by two thirds. Poach in a preheated
350 F. [180 C.] oven for 15 or 20 minutes, or until the
souffies are firm and spongy to the touch. Unmold them
carefully so as not to damage them, one by one, first running
the blade of a knife around the edges to loosen them. This
first cooking process may be carried out in advance.
Butter a shallow baking or gratin dish of the right size to
hold the little souffies, placed side by side but not-or bare-
ly-touching. Sprinkle the bottom of the dish with half of
the remaining cheese, place the souffies on top, and pour
over enough cream to immerse them by half. Sprinkle the
rest of the cheese over the surface. Return the souffies to the
oven for another 15 or 20 minutes-or until the cream is
nearly all absorbed and a light, golden gratin has formed.
RICHARD OLNEY
THE FRENCH MENU COOKBOOK
140
Ramekins
This is a recipe from the beginning of the 19th Century.
The batter for ramekins is equally good over macar oni
when boiled tender; or on stewed broccoli, celery or cauli-
flower , a little of the stewing gravy being put in the dish with
them, but not enough to make the vegetable swim.
1 cup
1 cup
Y2 cup
8 tbsp.
4
To serve 6
shredded Cheshi re cheese
shredded Cheddar cheese
dinner roll wi th the crusts removed,
crumbled
light cream
butter
eggs, the yolks separated from the
whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
dry white wi ne (optional)
Y4 liter
Y4 liter
125 mi.
120 mi.
4
125 mi.
Boil the crumbs of the r oll in the cream for about five min-
utes or until soft. Beat the cheeses and the butter in a large
mortar with the egg yolks and the cream mixture. Add the
wine, if using it, and fold in the egg whites.
Divide the mixture among six individual buttered rame-
kins, and bake them in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven
until they are a fine brown, about 20 minutes. They should
be eaten quite hot.
MRS. RUNDELL
MODERN DOMESTIC COOKERY
Savory Egg Cream on Toast
Creme aux Oeufs sur Croutes
To serve 4
4 eggs, the yolks separated from the 4
whites, and the whi tes stiffly beaten
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
2 tbsp. flour 30 mi.
Y2 cup heavy cream 125 mi.
Y3 cup milk 75 mi.
salt and pepper
cayenne pepper
1 tsp. chopped mixed fresh parsley, 5 mi.
tarragon and chervil
4 slices bread, toasted 4
Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and let it cook a
little. Stir in the cream and milk, and simmer, stirring con-
stantly, until the mixture thickens-taking care that it does
not burn or curdle.
Off the heat, mix the egg yolks with the sauce, and season
it with salt, pepper and cayenne. Fold in the egg whites with
the herbs. Put the mixture onto the slices of toast, heaping it
up; smooth over with the blade of a knife. Put into a preheat-
ed 425 F. [220 C.] oven until a golden color-about 10
minutes-dish up, and serve quickly.
C. HERMANN SENN
HOW TO COOK EGGS AND OMELETS IN 300 DIFFERENT WAYS
Semolina Souffle with Cheese
Griessschaum-A uflauf mit Kase
Semolina is milled from the heart of durum-wheat berries. It
is ground to different degrees of fineness, ranging from flour
to coarse granules. Farina may be substituted for semolina.
To serve 4
~ u p freshly grated Parmesan cheese 150 mi.
Y2 cup shredded Emmentaler cheese 125 mi.
3
/4 cup coarse semolina 175 mi.
2 cups milk Y2 li ter
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
5 eggs, the yolks separated from the 5
whi tes, and the whites stiffly beaten
salt
paprika
Place the milk and butter in a saucepan and bring them
gently to a boil. Sprinkle in the semolina and cook over low
heat for a few minutes, stirring continuously, until the mix-
ture thickens. Remove the pan from the heat and allow the
mixture to cool slightly.
Meanwhile, butter a 1-quart [1-liter] souffle dish or four
individual molds.
Stir the egg yolks and the cheeses into the semolina mix-
ture, season with a pinch each of salt and paprika, and fold in
the egg whites. Pour the mixture into the souffle dish or
molds and place the dish in a roasting pan containing
enough hot water to come halfway up the sides of the dish.
Bake in a preheated 425 F. [220 C.] oven until the top of the
souffle is crusty and brown. This will t ake about 30 minutes
for one large souffle and 15 to 20 minutes for individual ones.
Serve in the baking dish or molds.
HERMINE KIEHNLE AND MARIA HADECKE
DAS NEUE KIEHNLE-KOCHBUCH
Tom a to Cheese Souffle
To serve 4
1 Y4 cups shredded Cheddar or Gruyere
cheese
300 mi.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
3 tbsp. flour 45 mi.
%cup milk 175 mi.
bay leaf 1
whole clove 1
4 sprigs parsl ey 4
4 thin onion slices 4
dill 1 mi.
pureed tomato 125 mi.
salt and pepper
4 eggs, the yolks separated from the
whites, the whites stiffly beaten with
Y3 tsp. [ 1 Y2 mi.] sal t
4
dry mustard 1 mi.
Melt the butter, stir in the flour, and cook until this roux
mixture is frothy and bubbling, but not brown. Heat the
milk to the boiling point with the bay leaf, clove, parsley,
onion and dill. Strain the milk into the roux. Add the pureed
tomato, stirring constantly, then add the cheese. Season to
taste with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and let the
cheese sauce cool slightly. Beat the egg yolks lightly, add the
mustard and beat again until well blended. Gradually stir
the egg-yolk mixture into the cheese sauce, beating briskly
after each addition. Lastly fold in the beaten egg whites.
Pour into a buttered souffle dish, and bake in a preheated
400 F. [200 C.] oven for 20 to 25 minutes until the souffle is
well puffed up and nicely browned on top. Serve at once.
LOUIS P. DE GOUY
THE GOLD COOK BOOK
141
CUSTARDS, PUDDINGS AND SOUFFLtS /PIES AND QUICHES
Cheese Roll , Four Ways
The technique of filling and shaping a cheese roll is demon-
strated on pages 80-81. The roll may be served either warm or
cold, and filled with either the mushroom duxelles below, or
with 12 tablespoons [180 ml.] of butter creamed with% cup
[150 ml.] of chopped walnuts. If it is to be served warm, the
roll may be covered with tomato sauce, or it may be sprinkled
with 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of melted butter and 3 cup
[75 ml.] of grated Parmesan cheese, then placed in an oven
preheated to 350 F. [180 C.] for 10 to 12 minutes, or until a
light crust has formed and the roll is heated through.
2I:J cup
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
1 cup
5
2 cups
4 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
Y2 tsp.
Y4 tsp.
To serve 8
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
butter
flour
milk
eggs, the yolks separated from the
whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
chopped fresh parsley or a bunch of
fresh watercress (optional)
tomato sauce (recipe, page 166),
heated
Mushroom duxelles
fresh mushrooms, very finely chopped
butter
finely chopped shallots
fresh lemon juice
salt
freshly ground block pepper
150 mi.
30 mi.
30 mi.
Y4 liter
5
Y2 liter
125 g.
60ml.
45 mi.
15ml.
2ml.
1 mi.
Butter or oil a jelly-roll pan, 17 by 11 inches [ 42 by 27 em.].
Line it with wax paper, and butter 6r oil the paper. Melt the
butter over a medium-high heat and stir in the flour. Cook,
stirring with a wooden spatula, for two minutes-do not let
it brown. Remove the pan from the heat and add the milk,
whisking vigorously. Return the pan to the heat and cook,
stirring, until the mixture t hickens and boils. Remove the
mixture from the heat and cool for five to 10 minutes. Beat
the egg yolks and beat them into the sauce, mixing thor-
oughly. Stir in a third of the egg whites, then fold in the
remainder. Lightly fold in the grated Parmesan cheese.
Spread this egg-sponge mixture in the prepared pan and
bake it in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, for the duxelles filling, cook the shallots in
the butter over high heat until transparent. Then add the
mushrooms, lemon juice and seasoning. Cook over medium
heat, stirring constantly, until the vegetables are soft and
all excess liquid has evaporated.
Remove the baked sponge from the oven and t urn it out
onto two sheets of wax paper that overlap lengthwise.
142
Spread the sponge with the duxelles and roll it up, jelly-roll
fashion. Serve it garnished with chopped parsley sprinkled
over the roll or with a large bunch of watercress at one end of
the platter. Pour the hot tomato sauce over the roll.
6
Y4 cup
1 cup
4 tbsp.
J ULIE DANNENBAUM
MENUS FOR ALL OCCASIONS
Egg Souffle with or without Ham
Oeufs Frais Souffles avec au sans Jambon
To serve 6
eggs, 3 hard-boiled, the yolks of 3
separated from the whites, and the
whites stiffly beaten
dry bread crumbs
milk, wormed
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
butter, or YJ cup [75 mi.] heavy cream
plus 2 tbsp. [30 mi. ] butter
6
50 mi.
Y4 liter
60 mi.
finely chopped cooked hom
(optional )
125 mi.
Stir the bread crumbs into the milk, and let them soak until
the mixture forms a thick paste.
Quarter the hard-boiled eggs lengthwise, remove the
yolks, and arrange the whites in a star shape in a buttered 1-
quart [1-liter] souffle dish. Mash the hard-boiled yolks with
the bread-crumb mixture and the raw yolks. Season with
salt, pepper and nutmeg. Melt 2 tablespoons [30 ml.] of the
butter and add it-or the heavy cream-to the yolk mix-
ture with the ham, if you are 'including it. Fold in the beaten
egg whites, and pour the mixture over the hard-boiled egg
whites in the dish. Dot the top with the remaining 2 table-
spoons butter, and bake the souffle in a preheated 425 F.
[220 C.] oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Serve at once when the
souffle has risen well.
EDOUARD M. NIGNON
LE LIVRE DE CUISINE DE L'OUEST-ECLAIR
\
~ ~
4 tbsp.
2h cup
Y2 tsp.
~ i s and Quiches
Cheese Pie
To serve 4
shredded Cheddar cheese
butter
rolled ootmeal, coarsely ground in a
blender or food processor
salt
dry mustard
egg, beaten
short-crust pastry (recipe, page 166)
125 mi.
60 mi.
150 mi.
2 mi.
Roll out the dough and use it to line an 8-inch [20-cm. ] pie-
pan. Melt the butter in a saucepan. Take the pan from the
heat and stir in the cheese, oats, a pinch of salt, the mustard
and the egg. Mix wel l. Put the mixture into the lined pan and
bake the pie in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 30
minutes, or until golden brown. Serve with salad.
1 lb.
6 tbsp.
Y2 tsp.
Y4 tsp.
1 tbsp.
1 tsp.
3
Y4 cup
SHIRLEY M. HANSON <EDITOR)
FOOD FOR THOUGHT
Country Cheese Pie
To serve 4
farmer cheese (about 2 cups [Y2 liter])
plain yogurt
ground coriander
grated nutmeg
finely cut fresh chives or chopped
scalli on
sugar
sal t and pepper
eggs, beaten
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
short-crust pastry (recipe, page 166)
Y2 kg.
90 mi.
2 mi.
1 mi.
15 mi.
5 mi.
3
50 mi.
Preheat the oven to 400 F. [200 C. ]. Roll out the pastry and
line a 9-inch [22-cm.] piepan with it. Prick the bottom of the
pastry shell and bake it blind for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, mix together in a bowl the farmer cheese,
yogurt, coriander, nutmeg, chives or scallion, sugar and pep-
per to taste. Taste for salt before adding any. Beat t he cheese
mixture with a wooden spoon until it is smooth. Add the eggs
gradually and beat the mixture thoroughly again.
Pour the batter into the baked pie shell and smooth t he
top with a spatula. Sprinkle the pie with the Parmesan
cheese. Reduce the oven temperature to 375 F. [190 C.] and
bake the pie for 45 minutes, or until the top is nicely browned
and puffy. Serve immediately.
CAROL CUTLER
THE SIX-MINUTE SOUFFLE AND OTHER CULINARY DELIGHTS
Brie Tart
Tarte de Bry
This cheese tart should be eaten immediately, while it is still
hot, as it puffs up r ather dramatically. Like a souffle, it is
delicious cold as well, but not quite so impressive to look at.
It could be made with any of the soft cheeses of Northern
France. It makes a delicious savory ending to a meal-and a
novel way of eating the cheese.
Y2 lb.
To serve 4 to 6
very ripe Brie cheese, scraped from
its crust
1 to 2 tbsp. light cream (optional )
2 eggs, beaten
1 Y2 tsp.
1 tsp.
superfine sugar
ground ginger
ground saffron
salt
short-crust pastry (recipe, page 166,
but double the quantities called for)
15 to30 mi.
2
7 mi.
5 mi.
1 mi.
Line an 8-inch [20-cm. ] piepan with the pastry and bake it
blind for 10 to 15 minutes in an oven preheated to 425 F.
[220 C. ]. Allow the pastry shell to cool.
Melt the cheese very slowly in t he top of a double boiler,
adding a little cream if it seems lumpy. Add t he remaining
ingredients, mixing thoroughly. Pour the mixture into the
pastry shell and bake it in a preheated 375 F. [190 C.] oven
for about 30 minutes, or until the t art is lightly browned and
puffy. Serve immediately.
MICHELE BROWN
FOOD BY APPOINTMENT
143
PIES AND QUICHES
Cheese Tart from Obwalden
Gateau au Fromage d'Obwald
The original version of this recipe calls for sbrinz cheese, a
Swiss cheese, not obtainable in the United States, that is simi-
lar to aged Gruyere, although higher in fat content.
To serve 6
2 oz. aged Gruyere cheese, shredded 60 g.
(about Y2 cup [125 mi.])
1% cups flour 425 mi.
7 tbsp. butter, softened 105 mi.
1 tbsp. distilled white vinegar, diluted with 15 mi.
7 tbsp. [ 105 mi.] water
% tsp. salt 1 mi.
Two-cheese filling
5 oz. aged Gruyere cheese, shredded 150 g.
(about 1 % cups [300 mi.])
5 oz. Emmentoler cheese, shredded (about 150 g.
1 Y2 cups [375 mi.])
1 cup milk Y4 liter
1 cup heavy cream Y4 liter
2 eggs, the yolks separated from the
whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
2
salt and pepper
Heap the flour on a pastry board and make a well in the
center. Into this, put the Gruyere cheese, butter, diluted
vinegar and salt. Mix the ingredients together with your
finger tips to make a smooth dough. Roll it into a ball, wrap it
in a floured cloth and let it rest for 30 minutes in a cool place.
For the filling, mix the milk, cream and egg yolks. Fold in
the whites. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Roll out the pastry Vs to
1
.4 inch [3 to 6 mm.] thick. Butter
an 8-inch [20-cm.] pie plate, line it with the pastry and prick
the pastry all over with a fork. Dust it with flour, sprinkle on
the shredded cheeses and pour in the egg mixture. Place the
tart on a baking sheet and put it into a preheated 400 F.
[200 C.] oven. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the filling
is set and the top is golden.
PIERRE ANDROUET
LA CUISINE AU FROMAGE
Roquefort Quiche
Tarte Aveyronnaise
There is a good case for the use of two 6-inch [16-cm.] quiche
pans for this quiche rather than one large one. It is a ques-
tion of synchronization. In small pans the yeast pastry and
the fillings are ready at precisely the same moment, whereas
144
in one big pan the filling tends to cook more quickly than the
dough. To a certain extent this depends upon your oven. It is
in any case a wise precaution to use the buttered wax paper
covering as directed.
Roquefort varies a good deal in quality. If it is very strong
use a little less, and compensate for the difference with extra
cream or milk.
1 cup
1 tsp.
3 tbsp.
3% to
4 oz.
3 tbsp.
2
4 tbsp.
To make one 10-inch [25-cm.] quiche or
two 6-inch [I 6-cm. ] quiches
Yeast pastry
unbleached flour
coke yeast or Y2 tsp. [2 mi.] dried yeast
creamed with 2 tbsp. [30 mi. ] tepid
water
salt
egg
heavy cream, or softened unsalted
butter
Roquefort filling
Roquefort cheese
heavy cream
eggs
milk
freshly grated nutmeg
freshly ground pepper
salt
Y4 li ter
7 g.
5 mi.
45 mi.
100 to
125 g.
45 mi.
2
60 mi.
To make the pastry: Warm the flour very slightly by putting
it in its bowl in a slow oven for a few minutes, add the salt,
then the egg and the creamed yeast. Mix all of the ingredi-
ents into a light dough. Add the cream or softened butter
and, with your hands, beat the dough into a soft batter. Dry
this by sprinkling it with a little flour, form it into a bun, and
cover the bowl with a plate or cloth.
Leave in a warm place for approximately two hours, until
the dough has doubled in volume and is light and spongy.
Break it down, sprinkle again with flour, reshape into a bun.
Unless you are going to use the dough at once, cover the bowl
again, and this time leave it in a cold place-not the refrig-
erator-until the next day.
To mix the filling: Mash the cheese to a paste. Add the
cream. Stir rather gently until the two are amalgamated.
Beat the eggs and the milk-the blender can be used for this
operation but not for mixing the cheese and cream-and
amalgamate the two mixtures. Season with nutmeg, pepper
and salt to taste . . Gentle stirring with a fork or spoon is
necessary now, and t here is no cause for worry ifthere are a
few recalcitrant lumps of cheese in the filling. They will
smooth themselves out during the cooking. On the other
hand, overvigorous whisking can curdle t he cream and the
cheese, a minor disaster which does not affect the flavor but
results in a rather flat filling when the quiche is cooked.
When the time comes to cook the quiche, butter and flour
a 10-inch [25-cm.] quiche pan with a removable base. Work
the dough into a ball, and put this into the center of the pan.
Sprinkling the dough with flour from time to time, press it
out gently with your knuckles until it covers the base of the
pan. Leave it, covered with a sheet of plastic wrap or wax
paper, and in a warm place, for about 25 minutes, until it has
again become very pliable and has sufficiently risen to be
gently pressed out again to line the sides of the pan.
To bake the quiche: Have the oven preheated to 425 F.
[220 C.]. Spoon the filling into the dough-lined pan, and put
this quickly onto a baking sheet on the center shelf of the
oven. Bake for 15 minutes before reducing the oven heat to
375 F. [190 C.], covering the filling with buttered wax pa-
per and cooking the quiche for another 10 minutes. Serve
quickly, before the filling sinks.
ELIZABETH DAVID
ENGLISH BREAD AND YEAST COOKERY
Cheese and Herb Tart
Tartre Bourbonoise
The technique of baking a tart shell blind, or empty, is demon-
strated on pages 74-75. If Swiss chard is not available, 1
pound [!h kg.] of spinach may be substituted.
1 Y2 lb.
5
1 Y2 lb.
1 tbsp.
7 tbsp.
To serve 6 to 8
farmer cheese or ricotta
eggs
Swiss chard, the ribs removed and the
leaves chopped
chopped fresh parsley
chopped fresh marjoram flowers and
leaves
salt and freshly ground pepper
ground saffron, dissolved in 1 tbsp.
[15 mi.] boiling water
lard or butter, softened
12-inch [30-cm.] baked tart shell
made from short-crust pastry (recipe,
page 166, but double the quantities
called for)
5
3;4 kg.
125 mi.
15 mi.
1 mi.
105 mi.
Mash the cheese in a bowl and beat in four of the eggs. Add
the chopped chard leaves, the parsley, marjoram, salt and
pepper, half of the dissolved saffron, and the lard or butter.
Mix with your hands until thoroughly blended.
Fill the tart shell with the cheese mixture. Bake the tart
in a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven. After about 15 min-
utes, when the tart is half-cooked, beat the remaining egg
with the remaining saffron liquid and pour the mixture
evenly over the surface of the tart. Continue to bake until
the surface is golden and slightly puffed at the center-
about 15 minutes more.
BAPTISTE PLATINE DE CREMONNE
LE LIVRE DE L'HONNESTE VOLUPTE
Spinach and Feta Pie
The techniques of shaping a pastry shell and blind baking it
partially are demonstrated on pages 74-75.
To serve 6
Y2 cup crumbled feta cheese 125 mi.
21b. spinach, chopped, cooked and
drained
1 kg.
2 eggs 2
2 egg yolks 2
Y2 cup plain yogurt 125 mi.
Y2 cup mil k 125 mi.
1 tbsp. chopped f resh parsley 15 mi.
Y2 tsp. each salt and crumbled dried tarragon 2 mi.
grated nutmeg
1 tbsp. butter, melted 15ml.
9-inch [23- cm.] short- crust pastry shell
(recipe, page 166), baked partially
First prepare the pastry-lined pan and spread with a thin
coating of mustard. Beat eggs and egg yolks until blended
and mix in yogurt, milk, parsley, salt, tarragon, nutmeg,
spinach and feta . Spoon the mixture into the pastry-lined
pan and drizzle the top with melted butter. Bake in a pre-
heated 400 F. [200 C.] oven for 10 minutes; reduce the heat
to 350 F. [180 C.] and bake 25 minutes longer or until set.
Let the pie cool five minutes before cutting it.
LOU SEIBERT PAPPAS
EGG COOKERY
145
PIES AND QUICHES
Asparagus Quiche
The techniques of shaping a pastry shell and blind baking it
partially are demonstrated on page pages 74-75.
To serve 4 to 6
Y2 to% lb. asparagus Y4 to Y3 kg.
Y4 cup chopped scallions, white ports only 50 mi.
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi.
1 cup half-and-half cream Y4 liter
2 eggs, beaten 2
Y2 tsp. salt 2 mi.
Y4 tsp. white pepper 1 mi.
Y4 tsp. savory 1 mi.
Y2 cup shredded Gruyere cheese 125 mi.
paprika
8-inch [20-cm.] short-crust pastry shell
(recipe, page 166), partially baked
Slice the aspar agus on the diagonal, parboil for three to five
minutes and drain. Saute the scallions in the butter until
soft and combine t hem with the asparagus. Arrange in t he
pastry shell. Beat together the cream, eggs and seasonings,
strain the mixture over the aspar agus, and sprinkle with the
cheese and paprika. Bake in a preheat ed 375 F. [190 C.]
oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or unt il a toot hpick inserted in the
center comes out clean.
CORALIE CASTLE AND BARBARA LAWRENCE
HORS D' OEUVRE ETC.
Cheese and Tomato Flan
The techniques of shaping a pastry shell and blind baking it
partially are demonstrated on pages 74-75.
1 Y2 cups
2
2
1 tbsp.
1 to
1 Y4 cups
8
To serve 4
shredded Cheddar cheese 375 mi.
medium-sized tomatoes, peeled and sli ced 2
eggs, beaten 2
flour 15 mi.
milk 250 to
salt and pepper
butter
flat oil -pocked anchovy fillets, drained
8-inch [20-cm. ] short-crust pastry shell
(recipe, page 166), partially baked
300 mi.
8
Mix the cheese, eggs, f]. our and sufficient milk t o make a soft
paste, spread the h e ~ s e mixture inside the pastry shell, and
146
season with t he salt and pepper. Place the sliced tomatoes
over the cheese mixture. Dot the top with butter and season-
ing, and bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C. ] oven for 20 to
30 minutes, or until the filling is set. Garnish the flan with
the anchovy fi llets.
IRISH RECIPES TRADITIONAL AND MODERN
Open-faced Cheese Pie
Quiche au Fromage
The techniques for baking cheese pie appear on pages 74-75.
To make on 8- to 9-inch [20- to 23-cm.] pie
%cup shredded Gruyere cheese, or 175 mi.
shredded Gruyere and freshly grated
Parmesan cheese combined
1 tsp. butter 5 mi.
6 slices leon bacon, cut in Y4 -inch 6
[6-mm.] pieces
2 eggs, plus 2 egg yolks. 2
1 Y2 cups heavy cream 375 mi.
Y2 tsp. salt
2 mi.
white pepper
2 tbsp. butter, cut in tiny pieces 30 mi.
8- to 9-inch [20- to 23-cm.] partially
baked short-crust pastry shel l (recipe,
page 166)
In a heavy 8- to 10-inch [20- to 25-cm.] skillet, melt t he
butter over medium heat. When t he foam subsides, cook the
bacon until it is lightly browned and crisp. Remove it from
t he skillet wit h a slotted spoon and drain it on paper towels.
Beat the eggs, egg yolks, cream and seasonings together in a
large mixing bowl. Stir in the cheese.
Place the cooled pastry shell on a baking sheet. Scatter
t he bacon over the bottom of the shell and gently ladle t he
egg-cheese custard over it. To prevent spilling and allow for
expansion, leave a clearance of at least Vs inch [3 mm.] be-
tween t he top of the custard and the rim of the shell. Sprinkle
the top with dots of butter and bake in the upper t hir d of a
preheated 375 F. [190 C.] oven for 25 minutes, or until t he
custard has puffed and browned and a knife inserted in the
center comes out clean. Serve hot or warm.
FOODS OF THE WORLD/THE COOKING OF PROVINCIAL FRANCE
Italian Cheese Pie
Pizza Rustica
This pie may be made on a baking sheet, by simply pinching
the edges of the pastry together.
Pizza has a much wider meaning in Italy than it does in
the United States or Britain. In its wider sense it means pie,
and to call the following recipe a pizza would be misleading
to anyone other than Italians.
In winter, two Italian pork sausages are added to the pie.
They are first fried until brown, then skinned, and the meat
crumbled and spread over the bottom of the pastry before the
rest of the filling is added.
1 Y4 cups
5 oz.
7 oz.
1 2!3 cups
5
4 oz.
2 to 3
3 cups
12 tbsp.
2
To serve 6
ri cotta or good-quality cottage
cheese
smoked provolone cheese, diced
mozzarella cheese, diced
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
eggs, lightly beaten
prosciutto or salami , diced
sprigs fresh parsley, finely chopped
salt and pepper
Rich short-crust postry
flour
butter
small eggs, lightly beaten
salt
300 mi.
150 g.
200 g.
400 mi.
5
125 g.
2 to 3
%li ter
180 mi.
2
For the pastry, sift the flour onto a pastry board and make a
well in the center. Work in the butter with your finger tips.
Add the two beaten eggs and a pinch of salt. Working quick-
ly, mix the ingredients into a dough. Put it aside in a floured
bowl , cover and let it stand for 30 minutes.
To make the filling, mix the cheeses in a bowl and add
four of the beaten eggs, the ham or salami, the parsley and a
pinch each of salt and pepper. Put the mixture aside.
Divide the dough into two pieces, one slightly larger than
the other. Roll out both pieces into round sheets-sufficient
to cover a 12-inch [30-cm.] flan or quiche pan. Line the pan
with the larger sheet of pastry. Trim the edges. Spread the
pastry shell with the filling and cover it with the remaining
sheet of pastry. Press down the edges firmly. Gather togeth-
er the scraps ofthe pastry and roll them into a long strip, like
a thin cord. Press the cord lightly around the edges. Prick the
top of the pie all over with a fork. Brush the pastry with the
remaining beaten egg.
Bake the pie in a preheated 375 F. [190 C.] oven for one
hour, or unt il the top is golden brown. Serve warm or cold.
ADA BON!
ITALIAN REGIONAL COOKING
Shabra Chipple and Bacon Pie
Shabra is an old Welsh word -probably spelled sgabrwbh-
that means quick. Chipple translates as scallion.
To serve 4 to 6
6 scallions, sliced lengthwise 6
4 slices bacon, chopped 4
1 tbsp. lard or rendered bacon fat 15 mi.
4 eggs 4
3 oz. cream cheese 90 g.
2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley 30 mi.
salt and freshly ground black pepper
short-crust pastry (recipe, page 166)
Roll out the short-crust pastry and use it to line a 9-inch [23-
cm. ] buttered quiche or flan pan. Press well-buttered foil
over the pastry and bake it in a preheated 400 F. [200 C.]
oven for 10 minutes, or until the pastry is firm. Reduce the
heat to 350 F. [180 C.], remove the foil, and bake the pastry
case for a further 10 minutes so that it is crisp but not col-
ored. Take it out of the oven and cool. Heat the lard or bacon
fat in a frying pan, add the bacon pieces and cook over medi-
um heat for five minutes. Lift out the bacon with a slotted
spoon and drain. Arrange the bacon in the pastry shell.
Add the scallions to the juices in the frying pan and cook
over low heat until they are soft and transparent. Drain off
the excess fat and arrange the scallions over the bacon.
Beat the eggs with the cream cheese (a rotary beater is
best for this) until the mixture is smooth. Mix in the parsley
and season fairly generously with salt and pepper.
Pour the egg mixture over the bacon and scallions, put
the pie into a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven and bake it for
20 to 30 minutes, or until the eggs are just set. Cover the pie
with foil if the edges of the pastry tend to get too brown.
MARIKA TENISON HANBURY
RECIPES FROM A COUNTRY KITCHEN
147
PIES AND QUICHES
Quiche Piperade Biscayne
The techniques of shaping a pastry shell and blind baking it
partially are demonstrated on pages 74-75.
To serve 4 to 6
3 eggs, beaten 3
2 tbsp. olive oil 30 mi.
1 small onion, sliced 1
1 green pepper, seeded, deribbed and
diced
1
2 cups peeled, seeded and diced tomatoes Y2 liter
1 clove garli c, finely chopped
1 tbsp. diced pimiento 15 mi.
Y2 cup diced smoked Virginia hom 125 mi.
salt and pepper
1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 15 mi.
9-inch [23-cm.] short-crust pastry shell
(recipe, page 166), partially baked
In a saucepan, heat the oil and add the onion and green
pepper. Saute for two minutes. Add the tomatoes, garlic,
pimiento, ham, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 10
minutes. Cool and add the eggs and parsley.
Pour the mixture into the pie shell and bake for 25 min-
utes in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven.
RENE VERDON
THE WHITE HOUSE CHEF COOKBOOK
Aunt Carla's Tart
Torta della Zia Carla
The techniques of shaping and blind baking a pastry shell are
demonstrated on pages 74-75.
1 lj3 cups
3
5 oz.
1 cup
To serve 6 to 8
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
eggs, 1 egg lightly beaten
prosciutto or other row cured hom,
diced (about 1 cup[% liter])
white sauce (recipe, page 165)
short-crust pastry (recipe, page 166,
but double the quantities called for
and odd 1 egg to the dough)
325 mi.
3
150 g.
Y4 liter
Line a buttered 10-inch [25-cm.] piepan with the pastry.
Brush the pastry with the beaten egg, line it with a piece of
148
wax paper, fill the lining with dried beans and bake the
pastry shell blind for 15 minutes in a preheated 375 F. [190
C.] oven. Remove the paper and beans.
Stir the grated cheese, the two remaining eggs and the
ham into the white sauce. Fill the pastry shell with the
cheese mixture. Reduce the oven temperature to 325 F.
[170 C.] and bake for 20 minutes, or until the filling is set.
FERRUCCIO BOTTI
GASTRONOMIA PARMENSE OSSIA PARMA CAPITALE DEI BUONGUSTAI
Sausage and Egg Pie
Torta di Salsiccia
Serve the pie for lunch with salad, or cut it into small wedges
and serve as an appetizer.
12
2 1b.
2 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
To serve 6 to 10
eggs, beaten
fresh Italian pork sausage
finely chopped fresh parsley
freshly grated Parmesan or Romano
cheese
salt and pepper
short-crust pastry (recipe, page 166,
but double the quantities called for)
12
1 kg.
30 mi.
45 mi.
Remove the casing from the sausage, and brown the meat in
a large skillet over medium heat. Then remove the sausage
from the heat.
Add to the eggs the parsley, cheese, and salt and pepper
to taste. Add the sausage and mix well. Set aside.
Roll out half of the pastry to line a baking pan 8 by 8 by 2
inches [20 by 20 by 5 em.]. Pour the sausage-and-egg mix-
ture into the pie shell. Roll out the remaining pastry and use
it to cover the pie.
Bake the pie in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for one
hour, or until the top crust is golden. Remove the pie from
the oven and let it cool before slicing.
JOE FAMULARO AND LOUISE IMPERIALE
THE FESTIVE FAMULARO KITCHEN
Crab Quiche
The techniques of shaping a pastry shell and blind baking it
partially are demonstrated on pages 74-75.
To serve 4 to 6
2Y2 cups flaked crab meat 625 mi.
Y2 cup finely chopped scallions, white parts 125 mi.
only
Y4 cup finely chopped celery 50 mi.
2 tbsp. finely chopped shallots 30 mi.
Y2 tsp. finely chopped garlic 2ml.
2 tbsp. butter 30ml.
2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley 30ml.
1 Y2 cups half-and-half cream 375 mi.
3 eggs, beaten 3
Y4 tsp. salt 1 mi.
Y4 tsp. whi te pepper 1 mi.
Y4 tsp. grated nutmeg 1 mi.
Ya tsp. cayenne pepper Y2 mi.
1 cup shredded Gruyere or Emmentaler Y4 liter
cheese
Y2 tsp. paprika 2 mi.
1 0-inch [25-cm.] short-crust pastry
shell( recipe, page 166), partially baked
Saute the scallions, celery, shallots and garlic in the butter
until soft. Cool. With a fork, stir in the crab meat and pars-
ley. Place the mixture in the pastry shell. Beat the half-and-
half cream with the eggs and seasonings. Strain the cream
mixture over the crab-meat mixture and sprinkle the top
with the cheese and paprika. Bake in a preheated 375 F.
[190 C.] oven for 30 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick
inserted in the center of the filling comes out clean.
CORALIE CASTLE AND BARBARA LAWRENCE
HORS D'OEUVRE ETC.
Crab Meat Quiche
Quiche au Crabe
The techniques of shaping a pastry shell and blind baking it
partially are demonstrated on pages 74-75.
This quiche of crab is a rich combination of eggs and
cream. It is versatile enough to be used as a hot hors
d'oeuvre, baked in an oblong baking pan and cut into bite-
sized squares, or as a main-course supper or luncheon dish. I
find it rather too substantial as a first course. It may be
cooked in advance and r eheated. If used in this way, do not
refrigerate unless you plan to keep it for several days.
6
1 cup
%cup
Y2 tsp.
1 tsp.
To serve 6 to 8
eggs
shredded crab meat
heavy cream
salt
cayenne pepper
freshly grated pepper
Worcestershire sauce
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
9-inch [23-cm.] short-crust pastry shell
(recipe, page 166), partially baked
6
Y4 liter
175 mi.
2 mi.
5 mi.
50 mi.
Break the eggs into a mixing bowl, pour in the cream and
beat with a whisk until thoroughly blended. Add the salt,
cayenne, two twists of black pepper, and the Worcestershire
sauce. Stir in the crab meat and mix until it is evenly distrib-
uted. Pour the mixture into the pie shell, sprinkle the sur-
face with Parmesan cheese and bake in a preheated 350 F.
[180 C.] oven for 30 minutes, or until golden brown and set.
MAURICE MOORE-BETTY
COOKING FOR OCCASIONS
Cheese Tricorns
Corniottes
To make 12 tricorns
Y2 lb. farmer or pot cheese % kg.
Y2 lb. Gruyere cheese, shredded (2 cups [Y2
liter])
Y4 kg.
4 eggs, beaten 4
salt and pepper
3 tbsp. creme fralche or substitute heavy 45 mi.
cream
short-crust pastry (recipe, page 166, but
double the quantities called for)
Mix the two cheeses into three of the beaten eggs, season
with salt and pepper, and add the creme fra'iche. Roll out the
pastry very thin and cut it into 6-inch [15-cm.] rounds, using
the rim of a bowl as a guide. Place 2 or 3 tablespoons [30 or 45
ml.] of the cheese mixture on each round. Fold up the edges
of the dough toward the center in three segments to create
triangular pastries; pinch the edges of the dough together to
seal them. Brush the pastries with the remaining beaten
egg. Bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 25 min-
utes, or until lightly browned.
JEHANNE JEAN-CHARLES
LE LEXIQUE DES EONS PETITS PLATS
149
PIES AND QUICHES I FONDUES AND RABBITS
Cheese Custard Tarts
Flans Suisses au Fromage
Scraps of puff pastry may be used in this recipe instead of the
short crust. An alternative method is to bake the pastry
cases blind at 350 F. [180 C.] for 10 to 15 minutes, or until
they are three quarters cooked. They are then filled with the
mixture and baked for about 15 minutes at 400 F. [200 C.].
To make 24 torts
4 tbsp. freshly grated Parmesan cheese 60 mi.
1 tbsp. flour 15 mi.
4 eggs, the yolks separated from the
whites, and the whites stiffly beaten
4
2 egg yolks
2
1 cup light cream Y4 liter
2 tbsp. butter, cut into small pieces 30 mi.
grated nutmeg
sugar
pepper
salt
short-crust pastry (recipe, page 166,
but double the quantities called for)
Lightly oil24 small oval tart pans. Roll out the pastry thinly
and line the pans with it.
Put the cheese in a bowl with the flour, egg yolks and
cream. Mix them together and press t he mixture through a
fine sieve into a saucepan. Add the butter, a pinch each of
nutmeg, sugar and pepper, and very little salt. Place the pan
over medium heat and stir until the butter melts. Remove
the cheese mixture from the heat and fold in the egg whites.
Divide the cheese mixture equally among the pastry
shells. Place them on baking sheets and bake them in a
preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for about 20 minutes, or
until the filling is set and the pastry golden brown.
URBAIN DUBOIS AND EMILE BERNARD
LA CUISINE CLASSIQUE
Pastry Boats with Blue-Cheese Cream
B lauwschuitjes
The original version of this recipe calls for saingorlon, a mild
French blue cheese, made to imitate Gorgonzola, but not ob-
150
tainable in the United States. The techniques of shaping and
blind baking a pastry shell are shown on pages 74-75.
To serve 6
5 oz. Gorgonzola or other mild blue cheese, 150 g.
crumbled (about 1 Y4 cups [300 mi.])
Y2 cup
6
8 tbsp.
shallot, finely chopped
dry white wine
eggs, lightly beaten
butter, flaked
salt and pepper
ground allspice
rough puff pastry (recipe, page 166, but
double the quantities called for)
125 mi.
6
120 mi.
Roll out t he dough and use it to line 16 small oval barquette,
or boat, molds. Bake the pastry boats blind, then keep them
warm while you make the cream.
In a saucepan simmer the shallot in the wine over gentle
heat, until the wine is reduced by half. Rub the mixture
through a fine sieve and cool.
In a second saucepan or fondue pan, combine the eggs
with the blue cheese, butter, salt, pepper and a pinch of
allspice. Stir in the wine with a wooden spoon and continue
to stir over very low heat until the mixture is smooth.
Fill the pastry boats with the warm cheese cream and
serve immediately.
HUGHJANS
VRIJ NEDERLANDS KOOKBOEK
Chester Cakes
These little cakes are also excellent without the filling, and
they keep well in an airtight container.
6 oz.
To make about 12 filled cokes
Cheshire cheese, shredded (about
1 Y2 cups [375 mi.])
12 tbsp. butter, softened
1 Y2 cups flour
2 tbsp.
2 oz.
4 tbsp.
salt
cayenne pepper
heavy cream
Cheshire filling
Cheshire cheese, shredded (about Y2
cup [125 mi. ])
butter, softened
175 g.
180 mi.
375 mi.
30 mi.
60 g.
60 mi.
Cream the butter on a marble slab; then, with your hand,
work in the flour, cheese, salt, cayenne pepper and cream.
Handle the dough as lightly as possible. When it is blended,
flour your hands and roll the dough into a ball. Let it rest in a
cool place or in the refrigerator for about one hour.
Roll the dough about If.! inch [6 mm. ] thick; stamp out
l-inch [2 lh-cm.] rounds. Bake the rounds in an oven preheat-
ed to 350 F. [180 C.] for 20 minutes, or until t hey are golden
brown. Meanwhile, make the filling by creaming the cheese
and butter together.
Cool the cakes a little on t he baking sheet. Use the filling
to stick the cakes together in pairs. Reheat the fill ed cakes
slightly, and serve them on a hot dish.
ANDRE L. SIMON
CHEESES OF THE WORLD
Farm Cheese Patties
Kirkcudbright is a town in Scotland.
This Kirkcudbright recipe is at least 155 years old. Any
type of pastry may be used. As an alternative method, you
may put the pastry and filling in an 8-inch [20-cm.] piepan
and bake the pie for about 25 minutes.
Y2 lb.
2
1 tbsp.
1 tbsp.
Y2 cup
To make 18 to 24 tarts
mild Cheddar cheese, shredded
(about 2 cups [Y2 liter])
eggs, beaten
butter, melted
dry bread crumbs
heavy cream
sal t and pepper
cayenne pepper
garlic clove, crushed, or 1 tsp. [5 mi.]
grated onion (optional)
rough puff or short-crust pastry
(recipe, page 166, but double the
quantities called for)
% kg.
2
15 mi.
15 mi.
125 mi.
Roll the pastry out thin and line small buttered patty or tart
pans with it. Mix the remaining ingredients together and
put a little into each lined pan. Bake the tarts in a preheated
400 F. [200 C.] oven for 15 minutes, or until the tops are
beginning to color.
BEE NILSON (EDITOR)
THE WI DIAMOND JUBILEE COOKBOOK
Gf'ondues and ~ i t s
Mother T ant Pis' Fondue
Fondue de la Mere Tant Pis
Potato flour is made by grinding dehydrated potatoes to a
flourlike consistency. If not obtainable, 1 teaspoon [5 ml.] of
all-purpose flour may be substituted.
To prepare the fondue, I use a small earthenware dish-
with a handle-measuring about 6 inches [15 em.] across. In
Geneva t his is called a caclon.
To serve 4
14 oz. Gruyere cheese, cut into small pieces
garlic clove, halved
1 Y4 cups very dry white wine
4 tbsp.
Y2 tsp.
freshly ground white pepper
grated nutmeg
kirsch
potato flour, mixed with 2 tbsp.
[30 mi.] whi te wine
dry French bread, cubed
360 g.
300 mi.
60 mi.
2 mi.
Rub the inside of a suitable earthenware pot with the cut
sides of the garlic clove. Pour in the wine, season it with
pepper and nutmeg, add the cheese and bring the mixture to
a boil. Whisk over medium heat for eight to 10 minutes:
Gradually the cheese melts and the wine begins to turn
milky. The cheese forms a mass in the middle of the codon
and the wine remains obstinately separate. This is the mo-
ment to use the potato flour.
Pour in the dissolved flour little by little, beating all the
time. Gradually the mixture thickens and the wine mixes
with the cheese. Then add t he kirsch and continue to beat.
The fondue is reaching its final texture. Boil for one minute.
If the flavor of alcohol is too strong, boil for three or four
minutes longer. Taste it again-delicious. Set the pot on a
hot plate or over an alcohol burner adjusted to keep the
fondue just bubbling.
Serve each guest about 20 pieces of dry bread, each fairly
thick, but small enough to be eaten in one mouthful. The
bread is speared on a fork and dipped into the fondue pot.
EDOUARD DE POMIANE
COOKING WITH POMIANE
151
FONDUES AND RABBITS
Geneva Fondue
Fondue Genfer
This is a cr eamy cheese mixture that can be served with
toast, but is also delicious with pasta, or potatoes boiled in
their jackets.
To serve 4 to 6
1 lb. Emmentaler or Gruyere cheese, Y2 kg.
shredded (about 4 cups [1 liter])
5 tbsp. heavy cream 75 mi.
3 or 4 egg yolks 3 or 4
V3 cup dry white wine 75 mi.
pepper
grated nutmeg
Mix all ofthe ingredients in a fireprooffondue dish. Stir over
the lowest possible heat until the mixture melts and begins
to t hicken. It must not be allowed to boil, or it will curdle.
Serve the fondue in the fireproof dish, keeping it warm.
14 oz.
2 cups
7 tbsp.
8
EVA MARIA BORER
TANTE HEIDI'S SWISS KITCHEN
Cheese Fondue with Truffles
Fondue aux Truffes
To serve 4 to 6
Fontina cheese, cut into small cubes
mil k
butter
egg yolks
white pepper
fresh white truffle, very finely sliced
400 g.
Y2 li ter
105 mi.
8
Place the cheese in a bowl, cover with the milk and let it soak
for several hours.
To prepare the fondue, use either a double boiler or a
saucepan set in a pan of hot water. Place half of the butter in
the top pan together with the egg yolks, cheese and milk.
Melt over low heat, mixing continuously with a whisk. The
cheese will turn into a thick cream; add a little white pepper
at this point. Cut the remaining butter into small pieces and
add them to the cheese mixture. Stir for a few moments and
serve at once, sprinkled with the slices of truffle. This fondue
is eaten with a fork, like scrambled eggs.
F. AND T. RARIS
LES CHAMPIGNONS, CONNAISSANCE ET GASTRONOMIE
152
Baked Rarebit
To serve 4
6 oz. Cheddar cheese, thinly sliced 175 g.
2 cups fresh bread crumbs Y2 liter
2 eggs, lightly beaten 2
1 Y4 cups mi lk 300 mi.
salt and pepper
Butter a fairly deep 1-quart [1-liter] ovenproof dish and put
in some of the cheese slices, then a layer of crumbs. Repeat
the layers until the dish is about three quarters full. Mix the
eggs with the milk and the seasoning, and pour the mixture
over the cheese and crumbs. Bake uncovered in a preheated
350 F. [180 C.] oven for about 30 minutes, or until the
mixture is set and golden brown on top.
MARY MAC KIRDY
RECIPES FOR YOU
A Scotch Rabbit
The original version of this recipe calls for porter, a rich,
dark, sweet ale with a heavy foam. Porter is not obtainable in
the United States, but stout-although somewhat lighter-
may be used instead. To replace the old-fashioned cheese
toaster, you may substitute a fondue pot or other heatproof
serving dish.
Some gourmands use red wine for this dish instead of
porter; but the latter liquor is much better adapted to the
flavor of cheese. Others use a proportion of soft ripened
cheese, or the whole of it in that state.
To serve 4
6 oz. Stilton, Gouda or Cheshire cheese,
crumbled or shredded (about
175 g.
1 Y2 cups [375 mi.])
4 tbsp. butter (optional) 60 mi.
%cup stout 150 mi.
1 tsp. prepared English mustard 5 mi.
pepper
hot toast, buttered if desired
Put the cheese into a cheese toaster, with the butter if you
wish. Add the stout and mustard, and pepper to taste. Stir
over low heat until the mixture is completely dissolved, then
put it under a hot broiler for two minutes to brown the top.
Serve the cheese, keeping it warm if possible over a pan
of boiling water or over an alcohol burner. Serve dry or but-
tered hot toast on a separate dish. The cheese mixture is
ladled onto the toast.
MISTRESS MARGARET DODS
THE COOK AND HOUSEWIFE'S MANUAL
Cheese Soup
Glarus
Despite its title, this recipe produces a dish more akin to a
fluid Welsh rabbit than to a soup.
Another method of making this dish is not to stir the
bread and cheese in the pan, but to make a pancake of it,
turning it to cook it on both sides. In this case, double the
amount of butter.
To serve 3 or 4
1 cup _____ s_h_re_d_d_e_d __ _____________ __ lit __ er
8 thi n sli ces bread, toasted in a 350 F. 8
[1 80 C.] oven
2 Y2 cups boili ng water 625 mi.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Lay the cheese in a bowl in alternating layers with the
bread. Pour the water over them and leave for 10 minutes.
Press the bread and cheese down firmly and pour off the
superfluous water .
Melt the butter in a frying pan on medium heat and put
in the bread and cheese. Cook, stirring all the time, till the
cheese has melted and the whole becomes shiny (about two
minutes). Serve very hot.
HELEN GUGGENBOHL <EDITOR)
THE SWISS COOKERY BOOK
Welsh Rabbit (Rarebit)
The addition of a little Worcestershire sauce and mustard
will give extra flavor to this traditional British dish. The
author suggests that the bread may be fried in bacon fat in-
stead of being toasted and buttered.
To serve I
shredded Cheddar cheese 125 mi.
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi.
2 tbsp. al e 30 mi.
salt and pepper
slice bread, toasted and buttered
Put the butter into a saucepan and melt it. Add the ale, a
pinch of salt and two pinches of pepper. When just about to
boil , stir in the cheese (stir only just lightly enough to dis-
solve the cheese). On no account let the mixture boil after the
cheese is in--and cook it only just long enough to blend it.
Put the toast on a heatproofplate, pour the rabbit quickly
over it, and place it under the broiler for a few seconds until
the top browns.
DOROTHY HARTLEY
FOOD IN ENGLAND
Eggs with Cheese, Minorcan-Style
Huevos con Queso
In Spain, which has few native cheeses, any grating cheese of
the hard Gruyere type would be used for this dish.
To serve 6
1 cup freshly grated cheese Y4 liter
6 eggs
6
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
1 onion, chopped l
1 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley 15 mi.
Y2 cup dry white wine 125 mi.
Heat the butter in a saucepan. Add the onion to the pan and
cook gently for five minutes without browning. Add the grat-
ed cheese, parsley and wine, and simmer until the cheese has
melted-about five minutes. Break the eggs into this mix-
ture and poach them slowly in the cheese-and-wine sauce
until just set.
LUISRIPOLL
NUESTRA COCINA: 600 RECETAS DE MALLORCA, MENORCA,
IBIZA Y FORMENTERA
Way Down South Rarebit
To serve 4 to 6
4 cups shredded cheese 1 liter
1 Y2 tbsp. butter
22 mi.
1 onion, shredded l
21b. tomatoes, cooked (3 cups [% li ter]) 1 kg.
1 Y2 tbsp. sugar 22 mi.
2 eggs, lightly beaten 2
Y4 tsp. salt
1 mi.
Y2 tsp. pepper 2 mi.
Get a good thick frying pan and fry the onion in your butter,
and then add the tomatoes and sugar. Never letting this
mixture boil, add the cheese a little at a time, stirring so that
it melts. Then stir in the eggs and season with salt and
pepper. Serve t he rarebit piping hot on fried bread.
T. A. LAYTON
THE WINE AND FOOD SOCIETY'S GUIDE TO CHEESE
AND CHEESE COOKERY
153
FONDUES AND RABBITS I SPECIAL CHEESE PRESENTATIONS
Rum Tum Tiddy, Rink Tum Ditty, etc.
(Old Boston Style)
Rum Tum Tiddy is the name used for many early American
versions of Welsh rabbit, or rarebit.
%lb.
1 tbsp.
1 tsp.
2
l tbsp.
To serve 2
Cheddar cheese, shredded (about
3 cups [% liter])
onion, finely chopped
butter
salt
pepper
medium-sized tomatoes, peeled,
seeded, chopped and cooked
until soft
sugar
egg, lightly beaten
350 g.
15 mi.
5 mi.
2
15 mi.
Slowly fry the onion bright golden in the butter; season and
add the tomatoes with the sugar. Heat to just under the
bubbling point. Don't let the mixture boil. Add the cheese,
little by little, shaking the pan until all of the cheese melts.
Then stir in the egg gently and serve very hot.
BOB BROWN
THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHEESE
Tiri Mezedes
This flavorful melted-cheese dish is eaten, like a fondue, by
dipping chunks of crusty bread into it.
In Greece one eats the most delicious mezedes (appetiz-
ers)-they are so good and so varied one is often tempted to
make a meal of them. One of my favorites is simply made
with cheese- usually from fresh white feta.
lib.
3 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
To serve 2 to 4
feta cheese, cut into Y2 -inch [ 1-cm.]
slices
unsalted butter
strained fresh lemon juice
freshly ground pepper
Y2 kg.
45 mi.
45 mi.
Melt the butter in a shallow fireproof dish; arrange the feta
slices in layers in the dish, seasoning them with a little
154
pepper. Warm over low heat until the cheese softens and
begins to bubble slightly. Add the lemon juice and serve at
once, garnishing with coarsely chopped celery leaves or un-
curled parsley, or with a sprinkling of poppy seeds. Serve
very hot-if this dish cools, much of the flavor is lost.
T.A. LAYTON
THE WINE AND FOOD SOCIETY'S GUIDE TO CHEESE
AND CHEESE COOKERY
Roasted Cheese
Raclette
Johanna Spyri described the prototype of all Swiss national
dishes made from melted cheese in Heidi, in a famous scene
where t he old grandfather cooks the cheese at an open fire.
Basically, raclette is just that-cheese fried in the fire; and
in Canton Wallis, and many restaurants all over Switzer-
land, this specialty is prepared at an open wood fire. A ma-
ture Gomser raclette cheese is halved and the cut side held in
the flames till the surface begins to melt. The melting cheese
is scraped onto a warm plate-racler means to scrape-and
eaten with small potatoes, salt cucumbers and onions pick-
led in vinegar. Raclette can easily be made at an open fire in
the sitting room. In Switzerland there are electric stoves to
put on the dining table, not as romantic as an open fire, but
not as hot and messy either.
about
%lb.
To serve 4
raclette or Gruyere cheese, in
1 piece
egg yolk, beaten (opti onal )
about
Y3 kg.
Fix the piece of cheese on the end of a toasting fork, hold t he
piece in front of the flames of an open fire, or over glowing
coals, and scrape the melting cheese off into a warmed dish.
To make an easy and equally tasty, if not quite so genu-
ine raclette, butter the inside of a fireproof dish, remove the
rind from the cheese, and place the cheese in t he dish. Brush
it very thinly with the egg yolk, and allow the cheese to melt
in a preheated 450 F. [230 C.] oven for about 15 minutes.
EVA MARIA BORER
TANTE HEIDI'S SWISS KITCHEN
Toasted Cheese
This is a good ver sion of a favorite Victorian dish. Quantit ies
seem tiny, but they are enough for eight for a first course.
Y2 lb.
6 tbsp.
3
To serve 4
aged Cheddar cheese, grated (2 cups
[ Y2 liter])
butter
heavy cream
egg yolks
salt and pepper
cayenne pepper
90 mi.
125 mi.
3
Melt the butter in a pan over low heat; add the remaining
ingredients, stirring them vigorously together. Heat slowly
until you have a thick cream. Keep under the boiling point,
but give the whole thing time to thicken. Divide among four
or eight small pots, and brown lightly under the grill. Serve
with plenty of toast fingers, or pieces of baked bread.
J ANE GRIGSON
FOOD WITH THE FAMOUS
Special Cheese
<presentations
Cheese Cutlets
Cotolette di Scamorza
The original version of this recipe calls for scamorza-a soft,
white, mild-flavored cheese that is made in Italy, but not ex-
ported to the United States.
To serve 6
13/4 lb. mozzarella cheese, cut into 12 slices, 850 g.
Y2 inch [1 em. ] thick
Y2 cup fl our 125 mi.
2or3 eggs, beaten 2or3
1 cup dry bread crumbs Y4 liter
vegetable oil for deep frying
Dip the slices of cheese in flour, coat them with beaten egg
and then roll them in the bread crumbs, being careful to
cover the edges and corners. Heat the oil in a deep frying pan
to 375 F. [190 C.] and fry the cheese cutlets one or two at a
time, over very high heat , until they are browned, about five
to 10 minutes. Keep the prepared cutlets warm. When all are
ready, serve immediately.
1 cup
1 cup
Ys tsp.
Y4 tsp.
5
2 cups
2 tsp.
1 tbsp.
3
Y4 cup
3 cups
12
JEANNE CAROLA FRANCESCONI
LA CUCINA NAPOLETANA
Fried Cheese Squares
Fondue Bruxelloise
To serve 6
shredded Gruyere cheese
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
cayenne pepper
grated nutmeg
egg yol ks
sal t and pepper
whi te sauce (recipe, page 165, but
double the quantities called for)
water
peanut oil
eggs, lightly beaten
flour
fresh bread crumbs
oil or fat for deep frying
sprigs fresh parsley, washed and
thoroughly dried
Y4 liter
Y4 liter
Y2 mi.
1 mi.
5
Y2 liter
10 mi.
15 mi.
3
50 mi.
3
14 liter
12
Stir the Gruyere, Parmesan, cayenne pepper, nutmeg, egg
yolks, and salt and pepper to taste into the white sauce. Put
the sauce on low heat and cook, stirring constantly, until it
thickens. Do not boil the sauce. Remove it from the heat.
Butter a 13-by-9-inch [32-by-23-cm.] or a 9-inch [23-cm.]
square baking pan generously and pour the sauce into it.
Spread the sauce smooth with a spatula. Cover it with but-
tered wax paper and refrigerate it overnight or longer. It will
become quite firm. Cut the firm mixture into squares, rec-
tangles, rounds or diamond shapes.
Beat the water, peanut oil, and salt and pepper to taste
into the eggs. Coat t he croquettes on all sides with the flour,
dip them into the egg mixture and shake off the excess. Fi-
nally, coat the croquettes on all sides with the bread crumbs,
tapping them lightly with the flat side of a knife so that the
crumbs will adhere better.
Fry the croquettes in oil or fat, preheated to 375 F. [180
C.], until golden; drain on kitchen toweling. Deep fry the
parsley and use it to garnish the croquettes.
NIKA HAZELTON
THE BELGIAN COOK BOOK
155
SPECIAL CHEESE PRESENTATI ONS
Geneva Cheese Fritters
Genfer Kasebeignets
This can be served as a rich, hot starter for eight people or,
with a salad or vegetables, as a main course for four.
1 lb.
1 cup
1% cups
2
To serve 4 to 8
Emmental er or Gruyere cheese, cut
into 8 sl ices Y2 inch [ 1 em.] thick by
3 inches [8 em. ] square
flour
salt and pepper
egg
dry white wine, warmed
egg whites, stiffly beaten
prepared mustard
fat for deep frying
Y2 kg.
Y4 liter
300 mi.
2
Sift the flour into a bowl and season with a pinch each of salt
and pepper. Make a well in the center and break the egg into
it. Gradually work the egg into t he flour, then slowly stir in
about half of the wine. Beat well, then stir in the remaining
wine and fold in the egg whites.
Spread the cheese slices thinly with mustard and dip
them into the fritter batter. Fry them in very hot deep fat
until they are golden on both sides. Serve hot.
GRETE WILLINSKY
KULINARISCHE WELTREISE
Parmesan Bavarian Cream
Parmesan Bavarois
Essentially this is a Bavarian cream, but it is not sweetened
and it is not a dessert but rather a cold entree. In France it
might be spooned directly from its own glass bowl or terrine.
Others may prefer to mold it, in a ring perhaps, and garnish
it with hearts of lettuce or romaine.
To serve 4
%cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 50 mi.
1 Y4 cups mil k
300 mi.
4 egg yolks, beaten
4
1 tsp. unflavored powdered gelatin 5 mi.
YJ cup heavy cream, whipped
75 mi.
Put 1 c u p ~ liter] of the milk in a saucepan over medium
heat. When it is about to boil, pour the milk over the egg
156
yolks and stir well. Return the mixture to the saucepan,
place it over low heat and stir without boiling until the
mixture coats the spoon. Remove the custard from the heat
and allow it to cool, stirring from time to time to prevent a
skin from forming.
Soften the gelatin in the remaining milk, heat the mix-
ture, stirring constantly, and add it to the custard. Stir to
dissolve the gelatin thoroughly. Add the cheese, and allow
the mixture t o cool completely. Fold in the whipped cream,
and pour the mixture into a serving dish or a 1-quart [1-
liter] mold. Place the dish in the refrigerator for at least one
hour, or until the cream is set. U nmold, if desired, to serve.
ALICE B. TOKLAS
AROMAS AND FLAVORS OF PAST AND PRESENT
Cottage-Cheese Dumplings,
Moravian-Style
Handcke Noky
Quark is a German fresh cheese with a tangy flavor. It can be
made by hanging yogurt in a cloth to drain. A suitable substi-
tute is the farmer cheese demonstrated on pages 10-11.
To serve 8 to 10
14 oz. quark or farmer cheese, drained 400 g.
(about 1
3
,4 cups [425 mi.])
12 tbsp. butter, 5 tbsp. [75 mi.] softened, the 180 mi.
rest melted
3 eggs, lightly beaten 3
salt
1 Y2 cups mil k 375 mi.
flour
%cup grated dry pumpernickel 50 mi.
Place the cheese in a bowl and gradually beat in the softened
butter, eggs and a pinch of salt. Add the milk, alternately
with addit ions of flour, until you have a soft dough. The
quantity of flour depends on t he consistency of the cheese.
Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and, when t he
dough is thor oughly mixed, form small dumplings, using a
spoon dipped in cold water so that the dough doesn't stick to
it. For each dumpling, scoop out a little dough and drop it
into the boiling water. Boil for 10 minutes. When the dump-
lings rise to t he surface, r emove one and cut it in half to
make sure it is cooked through.
When t hey are cooked, drain t he dumplings, sprinkle
t hem with t he grated pumpernickel and pour t he melted
butter over them.
JOZA BRfZOV A AND MARYNA KLIMENTOV A
TSCHECHISCHE KOCHE
Malakoffs
To serve 8
8 slices Swiss cheese ( Ys inch [3 mm.] 8
thick)
1 cup flour % liter
salt
Y4 cup warm water 50 mi.
1 tbsp. olive oil 15ml.
3 eggs, beaten until foamy 3
2 tbsp. butter 30ml .
Hungarian paprika
Mix the flour, a pinch of salt, the water and olive oil to a
smooth paste with a wooden spoon. Fold the eggs into the
paste. Coat the slices of cheese with this batter and fry them
in the melted butter until they are brown. Sprinkle with a
little paprika and serve immediately.
SIGRID SCHULTZ (EDITOR)
OVERSEAS PRESS CLUB COOKBOOK
Parmesan Balls
These delicate balls should be mixed and rolled quickly, then
deep fried immediately-before the egg whites collapse.
To make 10 to 12 small bolls
%cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 175 mi.
2 egg whites, stiffly beaten 2
cayenne pepper
vegetable oil for deep frying
Heat oil to 375 F. [190 C.]. Mix % cup [150 ml. ] of the
cheese with the egg whites and cayenne. Roll the mixture
into small balls, using the remaining cheese instead of flour
to dust your hands. Deep fry the balls in the oil, about six at a
time, until they are light brown. Drain; pile them up on a hot
dish and serve at once.
MARY MAC KIRDY
RECIPES FOR YOU
An Old-fashioned Cheese Pastry
Flamiche a l'Ancienne
The original recipe calls for mariolles cheese-a pungent,
semisoft French cheese not available in the United States.
Port-Salut makes a satisfactory substitute. Cut into strips or
wedges, this pastry may be served as a first course, a light
luncheon dish or an accompaniment to drinks.
To serve 4
3Y2 oz. Port-Salut cheese, shredded and
mashed to a paste (about % cup
[1 75 mi.])
100 g.
1% cups flour 300ml.
2 eggs, beaten 2
Y4 cup water 50 mi.
salt
7 tbsp. butter, softened lOOml.
Put the flour on a board and make a well in the center. Add
the eggs, water and salt, and incorporate them into the flour
with your fingers. Knead the dough for about 10 minutes,
unt il it is springy, then allow it to rest in a cool place for 30
minutes. Roll out the dough on a floured board to a thickness
of lf2 inch [1 em.].
Work together the cheese and butter, form the mixture
into a ball, and place it in the center of the pastry. Fold the
pastry over the cheese mixture and seal the edges to enclose
it. Roll the pastry to a thickness of lf2 inch [1 em.] and fold it
in half. Turn the dough 90 degrees and roll it out again. This
is the first turn. Let t he pastry rest for 15 minutes in the
refrigerator , then repeat the folding and rolling process
twice more, chilling the dough after each one and turning
the pastry 90 degrees in the same direction each time.
Butter an 8-inch [20-cm.] pie plate and lay the pastry in
it. Bake it in a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven for 35 min-
utes, or until it is golden brown.
PIERRE ANDROUET
LA CUISINE AU FROMAGE
157
SPECIAL CHEESE PRESENTATIONS
Farmhouse Macaroni and Cheese
To serve 4
1 lb. sharp Cheddar cheese, coarsely
shredded (about 4 cups [1 liter])
Y2 kg.
Y2 lb. elbow macaroni, boiled in salted Y4 kg.
water for 8 to 10 mi nutes, or until
barely tender, and drained
1 tbsp. butter 15 mi.
1 cup milk Y4 liter
2 eggs, beaten 2
1 tsp. salt 5 mi.
Ya tsp. pepper Y2 mi.
Turn the macaroni into a buttered 5- to 6-cup [Ph-liter]
baking dish, and toss it with the butter until the butter is
melted. Add 3 to 3lh cups [750 to 875 ml.] of the cheese and
toss it with the macaroni . Mix the milk, eggs, salt and pep-
per. Pour this mixture over the macaroni. Sprinkle there-
maining cheese over the macaroni.
Bake in a preheated 325 F. [160 C.] oven for 30 minutes
or until the milk is absorbed and the cheese on top is melted
into a golden mass.
JEANNE A. VOLTZ
THE FLAVOR OF THE SOUTH
Cottage-Cheese Pancakes
Blintzes
To serve 4 to 6
1 Y2 lb. dry cottage cheese
3,4 kg.
salt
2 egg yolks, beaten 2
1 tbsp. melted butter 15 mi.
1 tbsp. sugar
15 mi .
Pancakes
1 cup milk Y4 liter
4 eggs, beaten
4
1 cup flour
Y4 liter
1 tsp. salt
5 mi.
butter
Press the cheese through a strainer; stir in salt to t aste, and
add the egg yolks, melted butter and sugar.
To make the pancakes, first add the milk to the eggs;
gradually stir in t he flour, add the salt and mix until smooth.
Heat a heavy 6-inch [15-cm.] skillet; butter it lightly. Pour
158
in only enough batter to make a very thin pancake, tipping
the pan from side to side until the batter covers the bottom of
the pan. Bake the pancake on one side only until it blisters;
toss it onto a board fried side up. Proceed in this manner
until all of the batter has been used.
Place a rounded tablespoon [20 ml.] of the cheese filling
in the center of each pancake. Fold over both sides and roll
into an envelope shape. Fry the envelopes on both sides or
bake them until golden brown. Serve hot with sugar or with
sour cream and jam.
THE SET1'LEMENT COOKBOOK
Fried Stuffed Peppers with Cheese
Pul neni Chushki sus Sirene
The sweet peppers in this recipe should be the long, single-
tipped variety without grooves. Choose ones that are thin-
fleshed so that they take more stuffing.
To serve 2
4 long green frying peppers
Y2 lb. feto cheese, crumbled
1 tsp. finely chopped flat-leafed parsley
freshly ground block pepper
2 egg yolks
flour
egg, lightly beaten
about oi l
1 Y4 cups
4
5 mi.
2
about
300 mi.
Broil the peppers over charcoal or under a broiler, turning
them frequently, until the skins puff and scorch evenly all
over, and the flesh becomes soft. Put the peppers into a small
saucepan and cover with a well-fitting lid. When they ar e
quite cold, peel off the scorched skins and carefully remove
t he cores and seeds, leaving the shells intact.
Combine the crumbled cheese with the parsley, a little
pepper and the egg yolks, and stuff the pepper s with this
mixture. Flatten t he peppers slightly, fl our t hem thorough-
ly, patting a little flour onto the opening over the filling.
Then roll t he peppers in the beaten egg.
Select a deep frying pan that will accommodate t he pep-
pers easily. Pour in oil to a depth of about Y2 inch [1 em.] and
place the pan over medium heat. You can test the oil by
dipping in a pepper stem; when the oil froths on contact with
the stem, put in the peppers. Turning them occasionally, fry
t he peppers for about 10 minutes, reducing the heat if they
are browning too quickly. Drain the peppers. Serve the pep-
pers cold, with bread and a tomato salad.
SONYA CHORTANOVA
NASHA KUCHNIY A
l cup
lib.
l tbsp.
2 tbsp.
l tbsp.
l cup
2
Cheese and Dandelion Roll
To serve 4
shredded Cheddar cheese
dandelion leaves or other greens
(spinach, beet or turnip greens,
sorrel) , parboiled for 2 minutes,
drained and chopped
butter
tomato ketchup
grated horseradish
cooked hominy grits or rice
eggs, hard-boiled and sliced
Y4 liter
15 mi.
30 mi.
15 mi.
Y4 liter
2
300 mi. l Y4 cups tomato souce(recipe, page 166)

Combine the cheese, greens, butter, ketchup, horseradish
and grits or rice. Form the mixture into a cylindrical rol l.
Place it on a buttered baking sheet and bake it in a preheat-
ed 350 F. [180 C.] oven for 25 minutes.
Place t he roll on a warmed serving dish and garnish with
the egg slices. Serve with tomato sauce.
4
2
l tbsp.
l cup
2 cups
ANDRE L. SIMON
CHEESES OF THE WORLD
Chilies Stuffed with Cheese
Chiles Rellenos con Queso
To make 8 stuffed chilies
Monterey Jock cheese
conned peeled green chilies, drained
and halved lengthwi se
flour
eggs, the yolks separated from the whites
oil for deep fryi ng
Tomato sauce
medium-sized onion, chopped
small clove garlic, crushed to a paste
oil
drained conned tomatoes
chicken broth (recipe, page 164)
salt and pepper
oregano
15 mi.
Y4 liter
Y2 liter
Cut the cheese in eight rectangles, each about V2 inch [1 em.]
thick and 1 inch [2 V2 em.] long. Wrap a strip of chili around
each piece of cheese. Roll t he stuffed chilies in flour. Make a
batter by beating the egg whites until stiff and beating the
yolks lightly. Fold the yolks into the whites, then fold in 2
tablespoons [30 ml.] flour.
Drop t he stuffed and floured chilies into t he batter one at
a time. Pick up each chili with a spoon and transfer it to a
saucer; then slide it from t he saucer into about 1 V2 inches [ 4
em.] of moderately hot oil. This technique keeps the chilies
neater and holds more of t he batter on them. Basting with
hot oil, fry them until golden brown on each side, but work
quickly. Drain them well on absorbent paper and let stand.
Don't worry if the nice puffy coating deflates. It will puff up
again when heated in the thin sauce before serving.
To make the sauce, first cook the onion and garlic in the
oil until wilted. Add the tomatoes, pressing them through a
strainer. Put in a pot with the stock and bring to a boil, then
season to taste with salt, pepper, and oregano rubbed be-
tween the palms of the hands. At serving time, heat the
chilies in the boiling sauce for about five minut es.
ELENA ZELA YETA
ELENA'S SECRETS OF MEXICAN COOKING
Scalloped Potatoes with Reblochon
Gratin de Pommes de Terre au Reblochon
Serve this hot, as an accompaniment to white meats or to
poultry. The baking dish should be only half-full; otherwise
the cheese sauce will overflow.
To serve 4 to 6
reblochon cheese, crust removed, 2j3 kg.
mashed to a paste
medium-sized potatoes, peeled and 6
thinly sli ced into rounds Ys inch [3 mm. ] thick
heavy cream l 00 mi.
milk 200 mi.
salt and white pepper
grated nutmeg
garlic clove, halved
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Plunge the potatoes into boiling wat er for three minutes.
Drain them, run cold water over them and drain again. In a
saucepan, melt the reblochon cheese in t he cream and milk
over very low heat. Add salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.
Rub the cut sides of the garlic over t he inside of a shallow
casserole, then butter the dish well. Arrange the potatoes in
the casserole and pour the cheese mixture over t hem.
Bake t he potatoes in a preheat ed 400 F. [200 C.] oven
for 30 minutes. Reduce the heat to 325 F. [170 C. ] and bake
for a further hour, or until the t op is well browned and the
potatoes are completely soft.
PIERRE ANDROUET
LA CUISINE AU FROMAGE
159
SPECIAL CHEESE PRESENTATIONS
Baked Eggplant, Mozzarella,
Eggs and Tomatoes
Tortino di Melanzane e Mozzarella
To serve 3 or 4
Y2 to mozzarella cheese, cut into %-inch
3
/4 lb. [6-mm.] slices
4 eggplants, each about 6 inches
[15 em.] long, trimmed, peeled and
cut int0 Y4 -inch [6-mm.] slices
3 eggs, hard-boiled and sliced
2
4
1 cup
2
% cup
Iorge ripe tomatoes, peeled and cut
into Y4 -inch [6-mm.] slices
salt and freshly ground pepper
oil-pocked flat anchovy fillets, drained
and finely chopped
chopped fresh flat-leafed parsley
chopped fresh basil leaves or 2 tbsp.
[30 mi.] dried basil
garlic cloves
olive oil
%to
V3 kg.
4
3
2
4
Y4 liter
50 mi.
2
50 mi.
Put the slices of eggplant on a large platter and sprinkle
each slice with about Vs teaspoon [% ml.] of salt. Let the
slices stand at room temperature to draw out their excess
moisture. Drain the eggplant slices and dry them between
sheets of paper towels. Spread a little of the chopped ancho-
vies on each tomato slice.
In a buttered shallow ovenproof dish, which can go to the
table, or a pie plate (10 inches [25 em.]), make overlapping
rows of the slices of eggplant, hard-boiled egg, tomato and
mozzarella, in that order. Sprinkle with very little salt (the
eggplant slices and the anchovies are salty) and pepper.
Chop the parsley, basil and gar lie together until they are
finely minced. Sprinkle the mixture over the vegetables and
cheese, and sprinkle everything with olive oil. Cover the
dish with foil. Bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven for
30 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for about 10 minutes
longer, to let any excess moisture in the dish evaporate. The
cheese should begin to brown. Serve hot, lukewarm or cold,
but not chilled.
NIKA HAZELTON
THE REGIONAL ITALIAN KITCHEN
Baked Cheese, Shopski-Style
Pecheno Sirene po Shopski
Before use, the feta cheese should be rinsed and-for those
who prefer less salty cheese-can be soaked in cold water for
up to one hour. This recipe may be varied by the addition of
160
frankfurters, salami or broiled and peeled green peppers,
diced and added to the bowls with the tomatoes.
To serve 4
% lb. feto cheese, coarsely crumbled Y3 kg.
2 medium-sized tomatoes, peeled and 2
chopped
4 tbsp. butter, sl iced 60 mi.
8 eggs
8
salt
4 fresh hot chilies, green or red,
stemmed and seeded
4
paprika
Butter four small earthenware ovenproof bowls and distrib-
ute the cheese among them. Put the chopped tomatoes over
the cheese, then add half of the butter.
Bake the mixture on the top shelf of a preheated 400 F.
[200 C.] oven for 10 to 12 minutes.
Whisk the eggs lightly with a pinch of salt and pour them
over the tomato-and-cheese mixture. Into each bowl put a
whole fresh chili. Add the remaining butter and sprinkle
each bowl with a pinch of paprika. Bake for a further 10 to 15
minutes, or until the tops are a deep copper brown. Serve hot.
BULGARIAN CUISINE
Deep-fried Cheese Balls
Any cheese firm enough to grate, such as aged Cheddar or
Gruyere, may be used for this dish. As an alternative to oil, the
author suggests frying the cheese balls in ghee-the Indian
version of clarified butter.
To serve 4 to 6
1 cup grated cheese Y4 liter
1 cup mil k Y4 liter
1 cup flour
Y4 liter
6 tbsp. butter 90ml.
salt
1 tsp. cayenne pepper 5ml.
3 eggs, beaten
3
oil for deep fryi ng
tomato sauce (recipe, page 166, but
double the quantities called for)
In a large saucepan, warm the milk and gradually add the
flour, stirring constantly so that no lumps are formed. Add
the butter and, when the mixture thickens, remove it from
the heat and add the cheese. Blend well. Add salt to taste, the
cayenne pepper and the beaten eggs. When cool, the mixture
should be thick enough to shape into balls.
Heat the oil to 350 F. [180 C.]. Make approximately 24
balls the size of a lemon from the mixture and drop a few of
them at a time into the hot oil. Deep fry until the balls are a
golden brown on all sides (about two minutes). Drain. Serve
immediately with tomato sauce.
PREMILA LAL
THE EGG & CHEESE COOK-BOOK
Neapolitan Crepes
To serve 6
6 oz. mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced 175 g.
o/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 150 mi.
6 eggs, beaten 6
2 tbsp. flour 30 mi.
YJ cup milk 75 mi.
salt
about vegetable oil about
4 tbsp. 60 mi.
tomato sauce(recipe, page 166)
In a bowl, mix the eggs with half of the milk. Mix the flour to
a paste with the remaining milk, and stir the paste into the
egg mixture. Add a pinch of salt.
Heat 1 tablespoon [15 ml.] of the oil in a crepe pan, and
use the batter to make 12 thin crepes, cooking them on both
sides until lightly browned. They must be wafer-thin, practi-
cally transparent. As they are fried, lay them on absorbent
paper to drain. Add more oil to the pan as necessary.
Place a slice of cheese on each crepe. Roll it up. Arrange
the rolls in a baking dish, packing t hem very tightly. Cover
the rolls with the tomato sauce, sprinkle them with the grat-
ed Parmesan and bake in a preheated 350 F. [180 C.] oven
for 30 minutes. Serve very hot.
SOPHIA LOREN
IN THE KITCHEN WITH LOVE
Cheese in Vine Leaves
The author does not specify what sort of cheese to use, but you
will find any fairly firm well-flavored type suitable -Ched-
dar, Gouda, S wiss or goat's-milk cheese among them.
A recipe from t he cave village ofTroo in t he Bas Vendo-
mois region of western France. This recipe can be used for
any old end of cheese-it was a way of using up the last dried
pieces-and in winter, pickled vine leaves make a good sub-
stitute for fresh. Buy them in j ar s or from the brine tub.
Canned leaves are too tender. The fresh, slightly lemony
taste of the vine leaves has a revivifying effect on the cheese.
In the old days, the packages went into the oven when the
bread came out, to cook in the dying heat, and then to be
eaten with the still-warm bread.
To serve 4
12
3
/4-inch [2-cm. ] cheese cubes 12
12 vine leaves, fresh or pickled 12
12 slices bread, f resh or toasted in a 12
400 F. [200 C. ] oven for 5 minutes
If using fresh leaves, just wash them and wrap them around
the pieces of cheese. Place the little packages, seam side
down, close together in an ovenproof dish. Put them in a
preheated 450 F. [230 C. ] oven for about 15 minutes, or
until the leaves darken and stick slightly, and the whole
thing feels soft when you press it. Serve on slices of bread.
For pickled leaves, pour boiling water over them, sepa-
rate them carefully with a wooden spoon, and leave them for
20 to 30 minutes. Drain and cover them generously with cold
water. Now taste a corner-if the leaves are not too sharply
salty, they can be used. If they are still very strong, repeat
the boiling water procedure. Wrap the leaves around t he
pieces of cheese and complete as above.
Y2 lb.
1 cup
1
6 tbsp.
1 cup
2 oz.
1 oz.
2 tbsp.
Y4 cup
JANE GRIGSON
OBSERVER MAGAZINE
Gratin of Ricotta
Ricotta Gratinata
To serve 6
ricotta cheese (1 cup [% liter])
flour
egg
milk
sal t
finely chopped fresh parsley
prosciutto, diced (about Y2 cup
[1 25 mi. ])
salami, diced (about % cup [50 mi. ])
butter, cut into small pieces
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
y4 kg.
Y4 liter
90ml.
% liter
60 g.
30 g.
30 mi.
50 mi.
Mix the flour and the egg in a small earthenware bowl. Add
the ricotta and dilute it with the milk, beating the mixture
unt il it resembles a thick cream. Season it with a pinch of
salt, and add the parsley, prosciutto and salami. Butter an
8-inch [20-cm. ] gratin dish and pour in the ricotta mixture.
Dot t he top with the butter and sprinkle with the Parmesan.
Bake the gratin in a preheated 375 F. [190 C.] oven for 20
minutes, or until it is firm and browned. Serve hot.
LUIGI VOLPICELLI AND SECONDINO FREDA
L'ANTIARTUSI: 1000 RICETTE
161
SPECIAL CHEESE PRESENTATIONS/BASIC CHEESES
Cheese, Ham and Almond Croquettes
Delicias de Queso, Jam6n y Almendras
To roast almonds, place blanched almonds on a baking sheet
in a preheated 400 F. [200 C.] oven for 10 minutes, or until
lightly browned.
To serve 4 to 6
2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese Y2 liter
3 oz. ham, finely chapped (% cup [175 mi.]) 100 g.
12 roasted blanched almonds, very thinly 12
sliced
6 egg whites 6
salt and pepper
2 cups fresh brea.d crumbs Y2 liter
2 eggs, beaten (optional ) 2
butter
Beat the egg whites until stiff. Fold the cheese, ham and
almonds into the egg whites and season to taste. The mix-
ture will be a very thick paste that can be easily shaped.
Form the paste into small, round croquettes. Roll these in
the bread crumbs, then the eggs, and again in the crumbs.
(The egg coating may be omitted if desired. ) Melt 2 table-
spoons [30 ml. ] of butter in a skillet and saute the croquettes
a few at a time until evenly browned. Drain the croquettes
on paper towels. Serve at once, while they are hot and fresh.
NURI FONSECA
RECETAS DE AMERICA LATINA
GJ3asic Cheeses
A recipe for basic farmer or pot cheese
appears in StandardPreparations, page 166.
Curd or Cottage Cheese
I f you wish to make this cheese with pasteurized milk, sour it
by adding to it 1 cup [ liter ] of distilled white vinegar or
strained fresh lemon juice. The technique of draining curd
cheese is demonstrated on pages 10-11.
Some cooks mash and rub the cheese thoroughly with the
cream; others dress it with sugar, cream and a little nutmeg,
omitting the salt and pepper. Another way is to chop fine,
162
add salt to taste, work in a very little cream or butter, and
mold into round balls.
To make about 2 pounds [ 1 kg. ] cheese
1 gallon raw mi lk, soured 4 liters
salt and pepper
2 Y2 cups heavy cream 625 mi.
Set the milk over t he lowest possible heat or in an oven at its
lowest setting, leaving the door open.
As the curd begins to separate from the whey, cut it int o
squares with a knife. Stir gently now and then until it is
about as warm as the finger will bear and the whey shows all
around the curd.
Pour all into a coarse bag, and hang to drain in a cool
place for three or four hours, or overnight if made in the
evening. When wanted, turn from the bag, chop the cheese
rather coarse with a knife, and dress it wit h salt, pepper
and the cream.
THE BUCKEYE COOKBOOK
A Strong Potted Cheese
Foudjou
This recipe is from the lower Ardeche. Traditionally t he
cheese pot is never emptied, and a great connoisseur, native
to the region, describes knowing a house where the bottom of
such a brech-or pot-had not been seen for 15 year s. Eat
this cheese with hot potatoes, boiled in their jackets and
peeled as you eat them.
1 lb.
lib.
3 tbsp.
3 tbsp.
2 or 3
2 tbsp.
To make 2 pounds [ 1 kg. ] cheese
fresh goat cheese, mashed to a paste
dried goat cheese wi th the rind
removed, grated, ond forced through
a sieve or the fine di sk of a food mill
brandy
olive oi l
pepper
garlic cloves, crushed to a paste and
sieved
salt
mixed dried herbs, pulverized (thyme,
marjoram, oregano, savory)
Y2 kg.
50 mi.
50 mi.
2 or 3
30 mi.
Put the fresh and dried cheeses in a bowl and sprinkle t he
brandy and olive oil over them. Season the mixture well with
pepper and add the garlic. Add the salt and herbs, and knead
the mixture until it is well blended. Put it in a pot with a lid,
cover it and let it mature for two to t hree months in a cool
place before opening it.
PIERRE ANDROUET
LA CUISINE AU FRO MAGE
Cream Cheese
Heavy cream that is not ultrapasteurized is available at
health-food stores. Rennet tablets are sold at health-food
stores and some supermarkets.
To make about 1 Y2 cups [37 5 mi.] cheese
l quart whole milk l liter
l cup heavy cream (not ultroposteurized) Y4 liter
Y4 cup buttermilk 50 mi.
. l
rennet tablet l
l tbsp. water 15 mi.
Y4 tsp. salt l mi.
Combine the milk, cream and buttermilk in a stainless-
steel, enameled or flameproof-glass saucepan. Warm the
mixture over low heat, stirring, until its temperature regis-
ters 100 F. [38 C.] on an instant-response thermometer, or
until a few drops on the inside of your wrist feel neither cool
nor warm. Remove from the heat.
Dissolve the rennet tablet in the water. Add the rennet to
the milk mixture, stirring for one minute. Cover the pot and
let it rest undisturbed at room temperature for 16 to 24
hours, or until a firm curd has formed. At this stage there
will be an ample amount of clear, faintly yellowish liquid
(whey) over and around a solid-appearing cake of curd.
Line a fine-meshed sieve with two layers of dampened
cheesecloth (or, better yet, fine-meshed nylon curtain net-
ting) cut large enough to be tied into a bag later. Set the sieve
over a bowl and ladle into it first the whey, then the curd.
Let the mixture drain until only an occasional drop of whey
falls into the bowl. The curd will still be quite soft.
Tie the corners of the cloth to make a bag and hang it over
a bowl or the sink to drain for a few hours (contrive a way to
hang it in the refrigerator if the weather is hot). Work in a
little salt, then refrigerate the cheese in a covered bowl; it
will be fairly soft. Alternatively, if you want a firmer consis-
tency, fold the ends of the cloth over the cheese in the sieve,
then cover the cheese with a saucer or small plate. Set the
sieve over a bowl that will fit in the refrigerator and weight
the plate with an object weighing about a pound [lh kg.].
Refrigerate. Double the weight after a few hours and let the
cheese drain overnight, or until it is as firm as you like.
Remove the cheese from the cloth and work in a little
more salt. Either pack it into a bowl and cover it with plastic
wrap, or mold it as follows: Line a small wicker basket, a
bowl, a large, flat-bottomed cup or a small coeur d la creme
mold with cheesecloth. Pack in the cheese and fold the cloth
over it. Set the basket or coeur mold upright on a small plate,
or invert the bowl or cup on a plate covered with folded paper
towels (this will facilitate a little further draining). Wrap
the mold and plate in plastic wrap and refrigerate.
To unmold, lift the cheese by the wrapping, peel back the
cloth and invert the cheese onto a serving dish. The cheese
will be at its best for three days, though it will keep longer.
HELEN WI'ITY AND ELIZABETH SCHNEIDER COLCHIE
BE'ITER THAN STOREBOUGHT
Lancaster County Egg Cheese
To serve 8
6 eggs, beaten
6
2 cups buttermilk Y2 liter
l tsp. salt 5ml.
2 tsp. sugar l Oml.
2 quarts mil k, wormed 2 liters
Add to the beaten eggs the buttermilk, salt and sugar. Beat
lightly and pour the mixture into the warmed milk. Cover
the pan and let it stand for several minutes over medium-low
heat, stirring only occasionally.
Remove the lid and watch for the curds (the cheese) and
the whey to separate. Immediately spoon the curds gently
into a pierced mold, using a slotted spoon. Balance the mold
on a bowl into which the liquid can drip and let the curds cool
and drain. It is the gentle spooning into the mold that pre-
vents the cheese from getting solid and heavy. If you drop the
curds into a sieve, the cheese will get as heavy as lead. The
curds should be removed very delicately from the pan and
just laid in the mold.
When cold and drained, unmold the cheese onto a dish
and serve it with bread and molasses.
lib.
2 cups
2
Y4 cup
2 tbsp.
2 tbsp.
l tsp.
JOSE WILSON AND BE'ITY GROFF
GOOD EARTH & COUNTRY COOKING
Farmer or Pot Cheese with Herbs
Ceruelle de Canut
To serve 6 to 8
former or pot cheese, well beaten
fines herbes
shallots, very finely chopped
garlic clove, crushed to a paste
salt and pepper
heavy cream (opti onal)
dry white wine (optional)
oil (optional)
vinegar (optional)
Y2 kg.
Y2 liter
2
50 mi.
30 mi.
30 mi.
5ml.
Beat the herbs, shallots, garlic, salt and pepper to taste into
the cheese. If desired, beat in the cream, wine, oil and/or
vinegar. To serve, form the cheese into a round on a plate.
Tightly covered and refrigerated, it will keep for several
days, becoming more strongly flavored the longer it stands.
FELIX BENOIT AND HENRY CLOS JOUVE
LA CUISINE LYONNAISE
163
BASIC CHEESES/ STANDARD PREPARATIONS
Ricotta
Although ricotta is traditionally made with whey or a mix-
ture of whey and milk, this whole-milk version is more practi-
cal for the modern cook.
Unlike most fresh cheeses-cottage and cream cheese,
for example-the curd of this bland, light cheese is formed
by the addition of acid to the milk, not by fermentation. For
that reason, the time required to make it is gener ally short.
Try this Italian favorite in place of cottage cheese, as well as
in Italian recipes for such dishes as lasagne and manicotti.
You' ll find it is a bit creamier than most cottage cheeses,
with a much finer curd.
For a pleasant light milk dessert, sweeten this ricotta
slightly and sprinkle with grated chocolate or cinnamon.
2 quarts
3 tbsp.
To make about 1 pound [Y2 kg. ] cheese
milk
di stilled white vinegar or Y4 cup
[50 mi.] strained fresh lemon juice
salt (optional )
2 liters
45 mi.
Pour the milk into a heavy stainless-steel or enameled
saucepan and stir in the white vinegar or lemon juice. Set
the pan over very low heat and bring the milk very slowly to
the simmer (a reading of200 F. [95 C.] on a thermometer).
There will be fine beads around the edge of the milk, which
will look foamy but will not appear to be boiling.
Remove the pan from the heat and set it, covered, in a
spot where it can remain undisturbed and where the tem-
perature will remain between 80 and 100 F. [25 and 40
C.]. (An unheated oven, without a pilot light, is a good spot. )
Let the milk stand for about six hours, or until a solid curd
floats above the liquid (the whey). More or less time may be
required, depending on the temperature of the environment
and the characteristics of the milk.
Line a fine sieve with doubled, dampened cheesecloth (or,
better yet, two layers of very fine-meshed nylon curtain net-
t ing, dampened) and set it over a bowl. Ladle the curds and
whey into the sieve and allow the whey to drain off until the
ricotta is as thick as yogurt. If you want firmer cheese, tie the
corners of the cloth to form a bag and hang it up to drain
further. (In warm weather, the draining might well be com-
pleted in the refrigerator.)
When the texture of the ricotta is to your liking, add a
little salt (from \4 to 1h teaspoon [1 to 2 ml.]) if you wish.
Store the cheese, covered, in the refrigerator. It will be at its
best after it has been chilled for at least 24 hours, and it will
keep well for four to five days.
164
HELEN WITTY AND ELIZABETH SCHNEIDER COLCHIE
BETTER THAN STORE-BOUGHT
Standard c;preparations
Court Bouillon
To make 1 Y2 quarts [ 1 Y2 liters ] court bouillon
l Y2 quarts water l Y2 li ters
2 onions, thinly sliced 2
2 carrots, thinly sliced 2
bouquet gorni
l tbsp. salt 15 mi.
l cup dry white wine (optional) Y4 li ter
In a large saucepan, boil the water with t he oni ons, carrots
and bouquet garni for 10 to 15 minutes. Add t he salt, and t he
wine if desired, and continue to cook for another 15 minutes.
Before using the court bouillon, strain it through a sieve set
into a bowl or clean pan.
Basic Meat Stock
This stock may be made, according to your taste and recipe
needs, from beef, veal, pork or chicken-or a combination of
t hese meat s. For the beef, use such cuts as shank, shor t ribs,
chuck and oxtail; for t he veal, use neck, shank and ri b t ips;
for the pork, use hocks, Boston shoulder and back ribs; for
the chicken, use backs, necks, wings and car casses. Adding
gelatinous elements such as calfs feet, pig's feet or pork r ind
will make the finished stock set to a clear, fi rm jelly t hat can
serve as an aspic if prepared carefully enough.
To make about 2 quarts [2 liters] stock
4 to Sib. meat, bones and tri mmings of 2 to 2Y2 kg.
beef, veal , pork or chicken
l lb. pig's, calf's or chicken feet, pig's Y2 kg.
ears or fresh pork rind (optional )
3 to w o ~ r ~
4 quarts 4 liters
4 carrots 4
2 Iorge onions, l stuck with 2 or 3 whole 2
cl oves
rib celery
leek, spl it and washed
Iorge bouquet gorni
Put the pieces of bone on a rack in the bottom of a heavy
st ock pot, and place the meat and t r immi ngs on top of them.
Add cold water to cover by 2 inches [5 em.]. Bring to a boil
over low heat, start ing to skim before the liquid comes to a
boil-this may take one hour. Keep skimming, occasionally
adding a glass of cold water , unti l no scum rises-this may
take up to 30 minutes. Do not stir, lest you cloud the stock.
Add the vegetables and bouquet garni to the pot, pushing
them down into the liquid so that everything is submerged.
Continue skimming until the liquid again reaches a boil.
Reduce the heat to very low, partially cover the pan, and
cook undisturbed at a bare simmer for two hours if you are
using only chicken trimmings, otherwise for five hours.
Skim off the surface fat. Then strain the stock by pouring
the contents of the pot through a colander into a large bowl
or clean pot. Discard the bones and meat trimmings, vegeta-
bles and bouquet garni. Cool the strained stock and remove
the last traces of fat from t he surface with a folded piece of
paper towel. If t here is any residue at the bottom of the
container after the stock cools, pour the clear liquid slowly
into another container and discard the sediment.
Refrigerate the stock if you do not plan to use it immedi-
ately; it will keep safely for t hree to four days. To preserve
the stock longer, refrigerate it for only 12 hours-or until
the last bits offat solidify on the top-then scrape off the fat
and warm t he stock enough so that it may be poured into four
or fi ve pint-sized freezer containers. Be sure to leave room in
the containers to allow for expansion, and cover the contain-
ers tightly. The freezer stock will keep for six months while
you draw on t he supply as necessary.
Basic White Sauce
Use this recipe whenever bechamel sauce is required.
To make about I Y2 cups [37 5 mi.] sauce
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
2 tbsp. flour 30 mi.
2 cups milk Y2 liter
salt
white pepper
grated nutmeg (optional)
heavy cream (optional)
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan. Stir in the flour and
cook, stirring, over low heat for two to fi ve minutes. Pour in
all of the milk at once, whisking constantly to blend the
mixture smoothly. Raise the heat and continue whisking
while the sauce comes to a boil. Season with very little salt.
Reduce the heat to very low and simmer for about 40 min-
utes, stirring every so often to prevent the sauce from stick-
ing to the bottom of the pan.
When t he sauce thickens to the desired consistency, add
white pepper and a pinch of nutmeg if desired; t aste for sea-
soning. Whisk again until the sauce is perfectly smooth,
t hen add cream if you prefer a richer and whiter sauce.
Veloute Sauce
To make I Y2 to 2 quarts [I Y2 to 2 liters] sauce
4 tbsp. butter 60 mi.
flour 50 mi.
2 quarts veal or chi cken stock 2 liters
Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over low heat and stir in
the flour until this roux mixture is smooth. Cook, stirring
constantly, for two to three minutes. When the roux stops
foaming and is a light golden color, pour in the stock and
whisk continuously until the mixture reaches a boil. Move
the saucepan half off the heat, so that t he liquid on one side
of the pan maintains a steady, but very light, boil. Skim off
fat and impurities that form on t ~ surface of the other, calm
side of the liquid. From time to time spoon off the skin. Cook
for 30 minutes, or until the sauce is the desired consistency.
Hollandaise Sauce
This sauce can be turned into a mousseline sauce by the
addition of cream. Whip % cup [175 ml. ] heavy cream until
foamy but not stiff, and stir it into the prepared hollandaise
sauce, off the heat.
3
1 tbsp.
16 tbsp.
1 tsp.
To make about I cup [ Y4 liter ] sauce
egg yolks
cold water
cold unsalted butter ( Y2 lb. [ Y4 kg.]),
finely diced
salt and white pepper
cayenne pepper
strained fresh lemon juice
3
15 mi.
240 mi.
5 mi.
Pour water to a depth of about 1 inch [2 Yz em.] into the
bottom of a double boiler, or a large saucepan or fireproof
casserole if you are making a bain-marie. Heat the wat er
until it simmers, then reduce the heat to low. Place the top of
the double boiler over the bottom; or set a rack or trivet into
the water bath and place the saucepan on the rack or trivet.
Put the egg yolks and the cold water in the upper pan and
beat the yolks unt il smooth. Whisk a handful of the butter
into the yolks and beat until the butter has been absorbed;
continue adding diced butter in this way until all of it has
been used. Beat until t he sauce becomes thick and creamy.
Season the sauce to taste with salt, white pepper and cay-
enne pepper. Then add t he lemon juice.
165
STANDARD PREPARATIONS
Tomato Sauce
When fresh ripe tomatoes are not available, use 3 cups [%
liter] of drained, canned Italian plum tomatoes.
6
1 tbsp.
1 tsp.
1 tsp.
To make about 1 cup [ Y4 liter] sauce
medium-sized ripe tomatoes,
chopped
onion, diced
olive oil
garl ic clove (optional )
chopped fresh parsley
mixed dried basi l, marjoram and
thyme
6
15 mi.
5 mi.
5 mi.
1 to 2 tbsp. sugar (optional) 15 to 30ml.
salt and freshly ground pepper
In a large enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, gently fry
the diced onion in the oil until soft, but not brown. Add the
other ingredients and simmer for 20 to 30 minutes, or until
the tomatoes have been r educed to a thick pulp. Sieve the
mixture, using a wooden pestle or spoon. Reduce the sauce
further, if necessary, to reach the required consistency. Ad-
just the seasoning.
Olive and Anchovy Sauce
Tapenade
This highly flavored mixture has many variations. If you
wish, you can pound in thyme or powdered bay leaf, garlic
cloves or tuna, or stir in a small amount of Cognac. If desired,
the mixture may be prepared in a food processor.
To make about 1 cup [ % liter] sauce
Y2 cup pitted ri pe oil-packed olives, coarsely 125 mi.
chopped
2 salt anchovies, fi lleted, soaked in 2
water for 30 minutes, patted dry and
coarsely chopped
Y4 cup capers, rinsed and drained 50 mi.
about olive oil about
Y4 cup 50 mi.
2 to 3 tsp. fresh lemon juice 10to 15ml.
freshly ground pepper
1 tsp. dry mustard (optional) 5 mi.
In a large mortar, pound together the olives, anchovies and
capers until they form a paste. Little by little, stir in enough
oil to make a sauce of rather fir m consistency. Then season
the mixture with the lemon j uice, pepper to taste, and dry
mustard if you are using it.
1166
Creamed Spinach
This preparation may be used as the basis for a gratin of
hard-boiled eggs or as a filling for layered omelets. To make
a similar dish of creamed sorrel, the sorrel should be coarsely
chopped and then sauteed in t he butter-parboiling is not
necessary if t ender young leaves ar e used.
To serve 4 to 6
21b. spinach, stemmed 1 kg.
2 tbsp. butter 30 mi.
Y2 cup heavy cream 125 mi.
salt and pepper
grated nutmeg
Bring a large pot of water to a boil, plunge in the spinach and
parboil it for two minutes. Drain the spinach in a colander,
running cold water over it to stop the cooking. With your
hands, squeeze out t he excess moisture. Chop the spinach.
Over medium heat, melt the butter and stir in the chopped
spinach. Stir until any excess moisture has evaporated. Re-
duce the heat. Stir in the cream, being careful not to let the
mixture boil. Season with salt, pepper and a little nutmeg.
Basic Farmer or Pot Cheese
The demonstration on pages 10-11 shows how to gauge the
temperature of milk for cheese making with a dairy ther-
mometer. The quantities given in this recipe may be halved
or quartered, and finished cheese may be flavored in a vari-
ety of ways. You can add chopped garlic and mixed fresh
herbs, or grated lemon peel or crushed green peppercorns. A
small cheese shaped into a cake or cylinder may be rolled in
paprika or cracked black pepper, or wrapped in vine leaves.
Small cheeses may be shaped in perforated cheese molds:
Spoon the drained cur d into the molds, salt the surface and
drain the cheese until it is firm enough to be unmolded. The
cheeses then may be flavored or wrapped, or left to ripen on
layers of straw- turned and sal ted every day-for several
days, or until the desired degree of ripeness is achieved.
The unflavored cheese may, of course, be used in any of
the Anthology recipes calling for cottage cheese. If the mix-
ture is beaten until smooth, it may be used in any recipe
calling for farmer or pot cheese.
Tomake2 to2 Y2 pounds [1 to 1% kg. ]cheese
4 Y2 quarts milk 4 Y2 liters
2 tbsp. buttermilk 30 mi.
sal t
In a saucepan set in a larger pan of hot water, slowly heat the
milk to a temperature of 80 F. [27 C.], then add the butter-
milk. Stir thoroughly, cover the milk and let it stand for up
to 24 hours at a room temperature of 65 to 70 F. [18 to 21 o
C.]. If the curd has not set, put the milk pan in a larger pan of
tepid water and let it stand, covered, for two hours.
When the curd forms a mass that can be seen to be sepa-
rate from the surrounding clear whey, line a large colander
with dry cheesecloth. Pour in the curd and drain it for five
hours. Then pull up the corners of the cloth, tie them tightly
and hang up the resulting bag to allow the curd to drain
thoroughly. After six to eight hours, or longer depending on
the degree of firmness you want, salt the curd to taste, and
flavor it if you wish. Beating will make the curd creamier.
Croutons
You can substitute olive oil or clarified butter for the combi-
nation of butter and oil specified in this recipe.
To make about 1 cup [ % liter] croutons
2 bread slices, Y2 inch [1 em.] 2
thick, cut from a day-old, firm-textured
white loaf
4 tbsp. butter
oil
60 mi.
50 to
125 mi.
Remove the crusts from the bread and cut the slices into
cubes. Combine the butter and 14 cup [50 ml. ] of the oil in a
large skillet. Melt the butter over medium heat and, as soon
as the butter-and-oil mixture is hot, add the bread cubes and
increase the heat to high. Turn the cubes frequently on all
sides, and add more oil as necessary to keep the cubes from
burning. The croutons will be done in about two or three
minutes. Before serving, drain the croutons on paper towels.
Short-Crust and Rough Puff Pastry
One simple formula produces dough for both plain short-
crust pastry and for rough puff pastry. The difference is in
how you roll it out.
1 Y2 cups
12 tbsp.
To make enough pastry for on 8- to 10-
inch [20- to 25-cm. ] pie shell or about
twelve 3-inch [8-cm. ] tort shells
flour
salt
cold unsalted butter, cut into small
pieces
4 to 6 tbsp. cold water
375 mi.
1 mi.
180 mi.
60 to90 mi.
Mix the flour and salt in a mixing bowl. Add the butter and
cut it into the flour rapidly, using two table knives, until the
butter is in tiny pieces. Do not work for more than a few
minutes. Add half the water and, with a fork, quickly blend
it into the flour-and-butter mixture. Add just enough of the
rest of the water to allow you to gather the dough together
with your hands into a firm ball. Wrap the dough in plastic
wrap or wax paper and refrigerate it for two to three hours,
or put it in the freezer for 20 minutes until the outside sur-
face is slightly frozen.
To roll out short-crust pastry: Remove the ball of pastry
dough from the refrigerator or freezer and put it on a cool,
floured surface (a marble slab is ideal). Press the dough out
partially with your hand, then give it a few gentle smacks
with the rolling pin to flatten it and render it more supple.
Roll out the dough from the center until the pastry forms a
circle about Vz inch [1 em.] thick. Turn the pastry over so
that both sides are floured and continue rolling until the
circle is about Vs inch [3 mm.] thick.
To roll out rough puff pastry: Place the dough on a cool,
floured surface and smack it flat with t he rolling pin. Turn
the dough over to make sure that both sides are well floured.
Roll out the pastry rapidly into a rectangle about 1 foot [30
em.] long and 5 to 6 inches [13 to 15 em.] wide. Fold the two
short ends to meet each other in the center, then fold again to
align the folded edges with each other. Following the direc-
tion of the fold lines, roll the pastry into a rectangle again,
fold again in the same way and refrigerate for at least 30
minutes. Repeat this process two or three more times before
rolling the pastry into a circle about Va inch thick as de-
scribed above for short-crust pastry. Always let t he pastry
dough rest in the refrigerator between rollings.
167
Recipe Index
All recipes in the index that follows ore
listed by English titles except in cases
where a dish of foreign origin, such as
blintzes, is universally recognized by its
source nome. Entries ore organized in
separate categories for eggs and
cheese and also by major ingredients
specified in recipe titles. Fillings and
sauces ore listed separately. Foreign
recipes ore listed under the country or
region of origin. Recipe credits appear
on pages 174-176.
Almond: cheese, hom and,
croquettes, 162
Anchovy:
and egg custard, 137
olive and, sauce, 166
parsley and, omelet, 130
Artichoke omelet, 122
Asparagus:
omelet, 121
quiche, 146
Aunt Carla's tart, 148
Bacon:
cheese and, cream, 135
egg croquettes with, 106
and eggs in a mug, 112
shobro chipple and, pie, 147
steamed, and egg pudding, 138
Baked eggs, 106-114
Basic cheeses, 162-164
Basic white sauce, 165
Basil:
eggs scrambled with tomato and,
117
hard-boiled eggs wi th, and
Parmesan sauce, 102
Bavarian cream, Parmesan, 156
Bean:
black, and eggs, 109
broad, omelet, 121
Bean curd: steamed egg custard with,
134
Belgian recipe: fried cheese squares,
155
Blintzes, 158
Brains:
eggs with calf's, 113
in red sauce, 98
Bread pudding with sliced cheese,
137
Brie tart, 143
Bulgarian recipe: baked cheese,
Shopski-style, 160
Butcher's wife eggs, 111
Butter:
chard croquettes with egg yolk and,
sauce, 94
egg yolk and, sauce, 94
sauce, 138
Cabbage: eggs baked with Savoy,
and caraway, 109
168
California omelet, 126
Cantal eggs, 108
Caraway, eggs baked with Sovoy
cabbage and, 109
Caribbean recipes:
black beans and eggs, 109
dot heart eggs, 100
Carp roe omelet, 130
Carrots, baked eggs wi th, 110
Cases: eggs in, with mushrooms, 110
Catalan omelet, 129
Caul, eggs in, 98
Cauliflower frittata, 122
Cheese:
and bacon cream, 135
baked, Shopski-style, 160
basic farmer or pot, 166
bread pudding with sliced, 137
Cheddar, pudding, 138
chilies stuffed with, 159
country, pie, 143
cream, 163
curd or cottage, 162
custard, 133
custard tarts, 150
cutlets, 155
and dandelion roll, 159
and egg custard, 135
eggs with, 115
eggs baked with, 108
eggs with Gruyere, 116
eggs with, Minorcan-style, 153
eggs, and truffl es, 96
farm, patties, 151
farmer or pot, with herbs, 163
farmhouse macaroni and, 158
fondue with truffles, 152
fried, squares, 155
fri ed stuffed peppers with, 158
Geneva, fritters, 156
grated potato and, omelet, 125
ham and almond croquettes, 162
ham and, pudding, 136
and herb tart, 145
Italian, pie, 147
and jelly omelet, 121
Lancaster County egg, 163
Maria Luigia's eggs with, 111
and mint omelet, 120
and old-fashioned, pastry, 157
pastry boats with blue-, cream, 150
perfect Cheddar, souffle, 139
pie, 143
pie, open-faced, 146
pudding, 137
puffed, omelet, 120
reblochon, scalloped potatoes with,
159
roasted, 154
roll, four ways, 142
scrambled eggs with, and wine,
116
semolina souffl e with, 141
souffle, 139
soup, 153
a strong potted, 162
Swiss, ramekin, 138
tart from Obwolden, 144
toasted, 155
and tomato lion, 146
tomoto, souffle, 141
tricorns, 149
two-, filling, 144
in vine leaves, 161.
See also Brie; Cottage cheese;
Curds; Feto; Parmesan; Ricotta;
Roquefort
Cheese bolls:
deep-fried, 160
Parmesan, 157
Chester cokes, 150
Chilies: stuffed with cheese, 159
Chinese recipes:
egg foo yong, 131
hard-boiled eggs deep-fried in
minced pork coating, 105
savory custard, 134
Coconut, duck-egg omelet with,
128
Cottage cheese:
curd or, 162
dumplings, Moravian-style, 156
pancakes, 158
Court bouillon, 164
Crab:
meat quiche, 149
quiche, 149
Cream:
blue-cheese, pastry boots with, 150
cheese and bacon, 135
eggs in, 94
eggs with, in romekins, 108
eggs scrambled with, 119
Parmesan Bavarian, 156
savory egg, on toast, 140
Cream cheese, 163
Creole sauce, eggs poached
in, 98
Crepe batter, 101
Crepes, Neapolitan, 161
Croquettes:
chord, with egg yolk and butter
sauce, 94
cheese, hom and almond, 162
egg, with bacon, 106
Croutons, 167
Cucumbers, eggs gloz'd with, 110
Curds, 162;
baked eggs in, 108
Custard:
anchovy and egg, 137
cheese, 133
cheese and egg, 135
cheese, tarts, 150
Chinese savory, 134
steamed egg, with bean curd, 134
Custards, puddings and
souffles, 133-142
Czechoslovakian recipe: cottage-
cheese dumplings, Moravian-style,
156
Dandelion:
cheese and, roll , 159
scrambled eggs with, 115
Doctor's eggs, 97
Dot heart eggs, 100
Dumplings: cottage-cheese,
Moravian-style, 156
Dutch recipe: pastry boots with blue-
cheese cream, 150
Ouxe//es, mushroom, 142
Eggplant:
baked, mozzarella, eggs and
tomatoes, 160
scrambled eggs with, 116
Eggs:
anchovy and, custard, 137
the antidame way, 93
bacon and, in a mug, 112
baked, with carrots, 110
baked with cheese, 108
baked, in a crust with watercress,
111
baked, in curds, 108
baked eggplant, mozzarella, and
tomatoes, 160
baked, Navarre-style, 112
baked with oysters Normandy, 114
baked with Savoy cabbage and
caraway, 109
baked stuffed, 101
Benedict, 99
black beans and, 109
butcher' s wife, 111
with calf's brains, 113
Cantal, 108
in cases with mushrooms, 110
in caul, 98
chard croquettes with, yol k and
buttersauce,94
with cheese, 115
cheese and, custard, 135
with cheese, Minorcan-style, 153
cheese and truffles, 96
Clementine, 92
in cream, 94
with cream in ramekins, 108
creamed, with shrimp, 106
croquettes with bacon, 106
doctor' s, 97
dot heart, 100
duck-, omelet with coconut, 128
farmer' s wife, loaf, 134
foo yong, 131
Francis Picabia's, 115
a fricassy of eggs: Lady Powis's
receipt, 106
to frye an egge as round as a boll,
92
glaz'd with cucumbers, 110
gratin of chopped, 100
gratin of hard-boiled, in creamed
sorrel, 104
in a greatcoat, 123
with green herb sauce, 96
gri lled, with lamb, 113
with Gruyere cheese, 116
Hangtown fry, 114
hard-boiled, with basil and
Parmesan sauce, 102
hard-boiled, deep-fried in minced
pork coating, 105
hard-boiled, with a green sauce,
104
hard-boiled, in onion sauce, 102
hard- boiled, with potatoes and
shallots, 1 03
Lancaster County, cheese, 163
with late summer vegetables,
Bilbao-style, 118
Maria Luigia' s, with cheese, 11 1
Marie-Louise, 103
with mixed vegetables, 96
mold with Remoulade sauce, 114
mallet, with haddock, 99
mushroom baked, 102
mystery, 137
old-fashioned, pie, 101
in onion sauce, 102
Parmesan, timbales, 136
pie, 103
poached in Creole sauce, 98
poached or soft-boiled, with lines
herbes, 95
poached, with sorrel juice sauce, 97
poached in tomatoes, 97
poached on tomatoes and smoked
herring, 99
poached in wine, 95
poached, in wine sauce, 96
Ponce de Leon, 101
rancher-style, 92
raw, omelet, 119
in red wine, 95
satchel, 118
sausage, 100
sausage and, pie, 148
on a savory base, 114
savory, cream on toast, 140
scrambled, with cheese and wine,
116
scrambled with cream, 119
scrambled, with dandelion, 115
scrambled, with eggplant, 116
scrambled, with mustard, 116
scrambled with tomato and basil,
117
with shrimp, 107
with shrimp sauce, 93
Slovakian-style, 107
souffle with or without ham, 142
Spanish fried eggs, 93
steamed bacon and, pudding, 138
steamed, custard with bean curd,
134
in stewed vegetables, 117
stuffed, in wine sauce, 104
Swiss, 115
Swiss, in a shell, 109
symphony, 120
on toast, 106
tomatoes stuffed with, 112
upside-down, 105
wild onions and, 117
yolk and butter sauce, 94
yolks on toast, 107
Farmer or pot cheese:
basic, 166
with herbs, 163
Farmer's loaf, 138
Feta {cheese): spinach and, pie, 145
Feydeau's omelet, 124
Filling:
Cheshire, 150
Roquefort, 144
two-cheese, 144
Fines herbes: poached or soft-boiled
eggs with, 95
Flan: cheese and tomato, 146
Fondue:
cheese, with truffl es, 152
Geneva, 152
MotherTant Pis', 151
Fondues and rabbits, 151-155
Francis Picabia's eggs, 115
French recipes:
asparagus omelet, 121
asparagus quiche, 146
baked eggs with carrots, 110
baked stuffed eggs, 101
brains in red sauce, 98
Brie tart, 143
broad bean omelet, 121
butcher's wile eggs, 11 1
Cantal eggs, 108
carp roe omelet, 130
cheese and bacon cream, 135
cheese and egg custard, 135
cheese and herb tart, 145
cheese and mint omelet, 120
cheese souffle, 139
cheese tricorns, 149
cold omelet loaf, 132
crab meat quiche, 149
crab quiche, 149
doctor's eggs, 97
dried mushroom omelet, 124
egg mold with Remoulade sauce,
114
egg pie, 103
eggs baked with cheese, 108
eggs baked with oysters
Normandy, 114
eggs with calf's brains, 113
eggs in caul, 98
eggs, cheese and truffles, 96
eggs Clementine, 92
eggs with cream in ramekins, 108
eggs with Gruyere cheese, 116
eggs Marie-Loui se, 103
eggs in onion sauce, 102
egg souffle with or without ham,
142
eggs in red wine, 95
eggs on a savory base, 114
eggs scrambled with cream, 119
eggs scrambled with tomato and
basil, 117
eggs with shrimp, 107
eggs in stewed vegetables, 117
egg symphony, 120
Iarmer or pot cheese with herbs,
163
Iarmer's wile egg loaf, 134
Feydeau's omelet, 124
flamed vodka omelet, 119
Francis Picabia's eggs, 115
grated potato and cheese omelet,
125
gratin of chopped eggs, 100
gratin of hard-boiled eggs in
creamed sorrel, 104
ham and cheese pudding, 136
hard-boiled eggs with basil and
Parmesan sauce, 102
hard-boiled eggs with a green
sauce, 104
hard-boiled eggs in onion sauce,
102
hard-boiled eggs with potatoes
and shallots, 103
leek omelet, 123
Lyons onion omelet, 124
mashed potato omelet, 125
Mother Poustiquet's timbales, 136
mushroom baked eggs, 102
mystery eggs, 137
an old-fashioned cheese pastry,
157
old-fashioned egg pie, 101
omelet with liver, 129
omelet with sorrel fi lling, 126
open-laced cheese pie, 146
oyster omelet, 132
Parmesan Bavarian cream, 156
Parmesan egg timbales, 136
parsley and anchovy omelet, 130
perfect Cheddar cheese souffle,
139
poached eggs with sorrel juice
sauce,97
poached eggs in wine sauce, 96
poached or soft -boiled eggs with
lines herbes, 95
quiche piperode Biscayne, 148
raw egg omelet, 119
Roquefort quiche, 144
Rauen omelet, 128
savory egg cream on toast, 140
scalloped potatoes with reblochon,
159
scrambled eggs with cheese and
wine, 116
scrambled eggs with mustard, 116
sorrel omelet, 126
spinach omelet from Nice, 126
spinach timbales in ripe olive sauce,
135
a strong potted cheese, 162
stuffed eggs in wine sauce, 104
Swiss chard omelet from Nice, 128
tomato cheese souffle, 141
zucchini omelet, 127
A lricassy of eggs: Lady Powis's
receipt, 106
Fried eggs, 92-94
Frittata:
cauliflower, 122
cold, country-style, 123
green tomato, 127
Fritters, Geneva cheese, 156
To frye an egge as round as a ball, 92
German recipe:
semolina souffle with cheese, 141
Ginger paste, 113
Gratin:
of chopped eggs, 100
of hard-boiled eggs in creamed
sorrel, 104
of ricolta, 161
Greek recipes:
cheese in vine leaves, 161
spinach and leta pie, 145
tiri mezedes, 154
Haddock, mallet eggs with, 99
Ham:
cheese, and almond croquettes,
162
and cheese pudding, 136
egg souffle with or without, 142
Hangtown fry, 131
Hard-boiled eggs, 1 00-106
Herb:
cheese and, tart, 145
eggs with green, sauce, 96
Iarmer or pot cheese with, 163
poached or soft -boiled eggs with
lines herbes, 95
Hollandaise sauce, 165
Hungarian recipes:
malakoffs, 157
scrambled eggs with eggplant, 116
Indian recipe: deep-fried cheese
balls, 160
Indonesian recipe: duck-egg omelet
with coconut, 128
Iraqi recipe: Iraq walnut omelet, 128
Irish recipe: cheese and tomato l ion,
146
Italian recipes:
artichoke omelet, 122
Aunt Carla's tart, 148
baked eggplant, mozzarella, eggs
and tomatoes, 160
caul iflower lriltata, 122
chard croquettes with egg yolk and
buttersauce,94
cheese cutlets, 155
cheese pie, 147
cold lrittato, country-style, 123
eggs with cheese, 115
eggs in cream, 94
eggs in a greatcoat, 123
eggs with mixed vegetables, 96
eggs poached in tomatoes, 97
eggs poached in wine, 95
eggs with shrimp sauce, 93
egg yolks on toast, 107
gratin of ricolta, 161
green tomato lrittata, 127
Maria Luigia's eggs with cheese,
111
Neapolitan crepes, 161
pizza souffle, 139
ricotta, 164
Roman omelet, 122
sausage and egg pie, 148
veal kidney omelet, 130
zucchini flower omelet, 127
Japanese recipe: steamed egg
custard with bean curd, 134
Jelly: cheese and, omelet, 121
Jewish recipe: cottage-cheese
pancakes, 158
Lamb: grilled eggs with, 113
Laotian reci pe: upside-down eggs,
105
Leek omelet, 123
Lettuce omelet, 122
Liver, omelet with, 129
Loaf:
cold omelet, 132
Iarmer's, 138
Iarmer's wile egg, 134
Macaroni : farmhouse, and cheese,
158
Malakoffs, 157
Maria Luigia's eggs with cheese, 11 1
Moso/o, 113
169
Meat stock, basic, 164
Mexican recipes:
chilies stuffed with cheese, 1 59
rancher-style eggs, 92
Mint: cheese and, omelet, 120
Mollet eggs with haddock, 99
Moroccan recipe: eggs poached on
tomatoes and smoked herring, 99
Mother Poustiquet's timbales,
136
Mother T ant Pis' fondue, 151
Mozzarella: baked eggplant, eggs
and tomatoes, 160
Mushroom:
baked eggs, 102
dried, omelet, 124
duxel/es, 142
eggs in cases with, 110
Mustard, scrambled eggs with, 116
Olive:
and anchovy sauce, 166
ripe, sauce, 135
ripe, sauce, spinach timbales with,
135
Omelet:
artichoke, 122
asparagus, 121
brood bean, 121
California, 126
corp roe, 130
Catalan, 129
cheese and jelly, 121
cheese and mint, 120
cold, loaf, 132
dried mushroom, 124
duck-egg, with coconut, 128
Feydeou's, 124
flamed vodka, 119
grated potato and cheese, 125
Iraq walnut, 128
leek, 123
lettuce, 122
with liver, 129
Lyons onion, 124
mashed potato, 125
oyster, 132
parsley and anchovy, 130
puffed cheese, 120
row egg, 119
Roman, 122
Rauen, 128
Scots, 130
sorrel, 126
with sorrel filling, 126
Spanish, 129
spinach, from Nice, 126
Swiss chord, from Nice, 128
Swiss stuffed, 125
toasted, 92
veal kidney, 130
zucchini, 127
zucchini flower, 127
Omelets, 119-133
Onion:
eggs in, sauce, 102
hard-boiled eggs in, sauce, 102
Lyons, omelet, 124
wild, and eggs, 117
Oysters:
eggs baked with, Normandy, 114
170
Hongtown fry, 131
omelet, 132
Pancakes, cottage-cheese, 158
Paraguayan recipe: cheese, hom and
almond croquettes, 162
Parmesan (cheese):
bolls, 157
Bavarian cream, 156
egg timbales, 136
hard-boiled eggs with basil and,
102
Parsley and anchovy omelet, 130
Pastry:
boots with blue-cheese cream, 1 SO
on old-fashioned cheese, 157
rich short-crust, 147
rough puff, 167
short-crust, 167
yeast, 144
Peppers: fried stuffed, with cheese,
158
Pie:
cheese, 143
country cheese, 143
egg, 103
Italian cheese, 147
old-fashioned egg, 101
open-faced cheese, 146
sausage and egg, 148
shabra chipple and bacon, 147
spinach and leta cheese, 145
Pies and quiches, 143-151
Pizzo souffle, 139
Poached and mollet eggs, 94-
100
Pork: hard-boiled eggs deep-fried in
minced, cooling, 1 OS
Potatoes:
grated, and cheese omelet, 125
hard-boiled eggs with, and shallots,
103
mashed, omelet, 125
scalloped, with reblochon, 1 59
Pot cheese:
basic former or, 166
former or, with herbs, 163
Pudding:
bread, with sliced cheese, 137
Cheddorcheese, 138
cheese, 137
hom and cheese, 136
steamed bacon and egg, 138
Quiche:
asparagus, 146
crab, 149
crab meat, 149
piperade Biscayne, 148
Roquefort, 144
Rabbit:
baked rarebit, 152
rum tum Iiddy, rink tum ditty, etc.,
154
o Scotch rabbit, 1 52
way down South rarebit, 1 53
Welsh rabbit (rarebit). 153
Romekins, 140;
eggs with cream in, 108
Swiss cheese, 138
Rancher-style eggs, 92
Rarebit. See Rabbit
Remoulode sauce, 114;
egg mold with, 1 14
Rice, scrambles with wild, 118
Ricotta, 164;
gratin of, 161
Roman omelet, 122
Roquefort:
filling, 144
quiche, 144
Rauen omelet, 128
Rough puff pastry, 167
Rumanian recipe: tomatoes stuffed
with eggs, 112
Rum tum Iiddy, rink tum ditty, etc.
(Old Boston style). 154
Russian recipe: fried stuffed
peppers with cheese, 158
Satchel eggs, 118
Sauce:
basic white, 165
butter, 138
egg yolk and butter, 94
hollandaise, 165
olive and anchovy, 166
ripe olive, 135
Remoulode, 114
soy-flavored, 131
tomato, 166
tomato, for chilies stuffed with
cheese, 159
veloute, 165
wine, 104
Sausage:
egg, 100
and egg pie, 148
Scandinavian recipe: anchovy and
egg custard, 137
Scottish recipes:
form cheese potties, 151
o Scotch rabbit, 1 52
Scots omelet, 130
Scrambled eggs, 11 5- 119
Scrambles with wild rice, 118
Semolina: souffle with cheese, 141
$habra chipple and bacon pie, 147
Shallots: hard-boiled eggs with
potatoes and, 103
Short-crust pastry, 167
rich, 147
Shrimp:
creamed eggs with, 106
eggs with, 107
eggs with, sauce, 93
Smoked herring, eggs poached
on tomatoes and, 99
Sorrel:
gratin of hard-boiled eggs in
creamed, 104
omelet, 126
omelet with, filling, 126
poached eggs with, juice sauce, 97
stuffing, 125
Souffle:
cheese, 139
egg, with or without hom, 142
perlectCheddorcheese, 139
pizza, 139
semolina, with cheese, 141
Swiss, 140
tomato cheese, 14 1
Soup, cheese, 153
Soy-flavored sauce, 131
Spanish recipes:
baked eggs, Navarre-style, 112
Catalan omelet, 129
eggs with cheese, Minorcon-style,
153
eggs with late summer vegetables,
Bilboo-style, 118
fried eggs, 93
omelet, 129
Special cheese presentations,
155-162
Spinach:
creamed, 166
and leta pie, 145
omelet from Nice, 126
timbales with ripe olive sauce, 135
Standard preparations, 164- 167
Stock, basic meat, 164
Swiss chord:
croquettes with egg yolk and butter
sauce, 94
omelet from Nice, 128
Swiss recipes:
bread pudding with sliced cheese,
137
cheese custard torts, 1 SO
cheese fondue with truffles,
152
cheese soup, 153
cheese tort from Obwolden,
144
eggs, 115
eggs in o shell, 1 09
Geneva cheese fri tters,
156
Geneva fondue, 152
Mother T ant Pis' fondue, 151
roosted cheese, 1 54
souffles, 140
stuffed omelets, 125
Swiss cheese romekin, 138
Tapenode, 166
Tort:
Aunt Carlo's, 148
Brie, 143
cheese custard, 130
cheese and herbs, 145
cheese, from Obwolden, 144
Timbales:
Mother Poustiquet's, 136
Parmesan egg, 136
spinach, with ripe olive sauce, 135
Tiri mezedes, 1 54
Toast:
eggs on, 106
egg yolks on, 107
savory egg cream on,
140
Tomatoes:
baked eggplant, mozzarella, eggs
and, 160
cheese and, lion, 146
cheese souffle, 14 1
eggs poached in, 97
eggs poached on, and smoked
herring, 99
eggs scrambled with, and basil,
117
green, l rittata, 127
sauce, 166
sauce, for chil ies stuffed with
cheese, 159
stuffed with eggs, 112
Tricorns: cheese, 149
Tripe, golden, 118
Truffles:
cheese fondue with, 152
eggs, cheese and, 96
General Index/
Glossary
Included in this index to the cooking
demonstrations ore definitions, in italics,
of special culinary terms not explained
elsewhere in this volume. The Recipe
Index begins on page 168.
Aluminum: affecting flavor of milk,
10; reacting with sorrel, 33; reacting
with tomatoes, 34
American cheeses: processing, 7
Anchovies: boning, 33; in egg
assembly, 39; removing excess salt
from,33
Appenzeller cheese, 16; ripening
process, 6
Aromatics: all substances -such as
vegetables, herbs and spices -that odd
aroma and flavor to food when used in
cooking; 54
Artichoke bottoms: in assembly
with stuffed hard-boiled egg, 40-41;
as cases lor mallet eggs, 39;
preventing discoloration of, 36;
removi ng chokes from, 36
Asiago cheese, 16; substituting lor
Parmesan, 13
Asparagus: in egg assembly, 39;
parboiling, 33; peeling, 33; slices of,
added to scrambled eggs, 52
Aspic: clarifying stock, 46; making
from veal stock, 46-47; mallet eggs
set in, 30, 46-47
Austrian Monastery cheese, 14
Upside-down eggs, 1 OS
Uruguayan recipe: creamed eggs
with shrimp, 106
Veal kidney omelet, 130
Vegetables:
eggs wi th late summer, Bilbao-style,
118
eggs wi th mixed, 96
eggs in stewed, 117
Veloute sauce, 165
Vine leaves, cheese in, 161
Bacon: in quiche, 7 4
Bain-marie. See Water bath
Baking: bread cases, 37; cheese, 7;
cheese cubes wrapped in grape
leaves, 88-89; cheese custard, 72-73;
cheese pie, 86-87; cheese souffle, 76-
77; cheesetart,86-87; eggs in
creamed spinach, 28-29; gratin, 64;
layered cheese casserole, 84-85;
layered omelet loaf, 65-67; pie shell,
74-75; quiche, 74; roll ed cheese
souffle, 80-81; shirred eggs, 20, 21;
short-crust tart shells, 37
Banon cheese, 14
Basil, fresh: adding to scrambled
eggs, 54-55
Beer: cooking cheese in, for Welsh
rabbit, 82
Bel Paese cheese: qualities of, 5,
14, 15
Blanch: to plunge food into boiling
water for a few moments. Done to
Facilitate the removal of skins or shells
or to soften vegetables or fruits before
cooking. Another meaning is "to
whiten."
Bleu de Bresse cheese, 14
Blintzes, 90
Blue cheese: cutting, 12; treating,
with mold, 6, 12; wine with, 7
Bouquet garni: a bunch of mixed
herbs - the classic three being parsley,
thyme and boy leaf -tied together or
wrapped in cheesecloth and used for
flavoring stocks, sauce, braises and
stews.
Boursault cheese, 14
Bread: cases lor deep-fried eggs,
Vodka: flamed, omelet, 119
Walnut: Iraq, omelet, 128
Watercress, baked eggs in a crust
with, 111
Way down South rarebit, 153
Welsh rabbit !rarebit), 153
White sauce, basic, 165
Wine:
eggs poached in, 95
eggs in red, 95
poached eggs in, sauce, 96
39; cases l or egg assembly, 36, 37;
cases filled with prosciutto and
poached eggs, 38; croutons, 53;
crumbs, coating cheese cubes with for
deep frying, 88; crumbs, coating
croquettes with, 44; crumbs,
preparing lor gratin, 42; fried, strips
bordering omelet sandwich, 60-61; in
layered cheese casserole, 84-85;
served with fondue, 82, 83
Brick cheese, 14, 15; pressing, 6;
ripening process, 6; wine wi th, 7
Brie cheese, 14, 15; buying, made
from raw milk, 13; in cheese tart, 86-
87; cooking with, 7; judging quality
of, 12- 13; labeling, 7; melting in water
bath, 86; rind on, 12- 13; texture of,
12; wine with, 7
Broiling cheese, 7
Bucheron cheese, 14; flavor of, 6
Butter: adding to hollandaise sauce,
35; adding to white-sauce base, 78;
cutting into pastry flour, 37; frying
eggs in, 20; in omelet, 56; sauce
made with herbs, 26-27; in scrambled
eggs, 52
Buttermilk: as starter in making
cheese, 10
Caerphilly cheese, 16, 17
Camembert cheese, 14, 15;
buying, made from raw milk, 13;
judging quality of, 12; ripening
process, 6
Cantal cheese, 16, 17
Cases for egg asemblies:
artichoke bottoms, 36, 39, 40-4 1;
bread, 36, 37, 38, 39; pastry shells,
36, 37, 38, 39; potatoes, 36, 39;
sauce, 104
scrambled eggs with cheese and,
116
stuffed eggs in, sauce, 104
Yeast pastry, 144
Yugoslavian recipe: Slovakian-style
eggs, 107
Zucchini:
fl ower omelet, 127
omelet, 127
tomato halves, 36; vegetables, 36, 38,
39,40-41
Cheddar cheese, 16, 17; aging,
12; cooking with, 7; gratin finish, 64;
grating, 13; pressing, 6; storing, 13;
substitutions lor, 13; treating curds of,
6; in Welsh rabbit, 82; white, in souffl e
pudding, 78; wine with, 7
Cheese: adding to omelets and
sauces, 7; age of, 12-13; ammonia
smell in, 12; baking, 7; broiling, 7;
buying, made from raw milk, 13;
buying specialized, 12; color in, 12-
13; composition of, 5-6; cooking with
natural cheeses, 7, 13; cutting off
surface molds, 13; cutti ng and slicing,
12, 13; danger of high heat, 7, 71; lot
content of, 6, 14; gratin finish, 38, 39,
40, 58, 60-61, 63, 64; grating when
chilled, 13; homemade Iarmer
cheese, 10- 11; made from cream-
enriched milk, 6; made with goat's
milk, 6; made with sheep's milk, 6;
made from skim milk, 6; melting, 82;
nutrients in, 5; pressing in molds, 6,
12; processed, 7; production, 5-7;
rind on, 12-13; selecting, 12-13;
separating curds and whey, 10- 11;
separation of fat and protein, 7, 71,
82; shredding and grating, 12- 13;
storing at home, 13; substi tutions for,
13; using dried-out cheese, 13;
varieties of fi rm and hard, 16-17;
varieties of soft and semisoft, 14-15;
wine with, 7. See a/so Individual
cheeses
Cheese casserole, 70, 84-85
Cheese dishes: blintzes, 90; cubes
171
coated wi th bread crumbs and deep
fried, 88-89; cubes wrapped in vine
leaves, 88-89; custard, 72-73; fondue,
82-83; layered casserole, 70, 84-85;
pie, 86-87; quiche, 74-75; rolled
cheese souffle, 80-81; souffle mode
with Gruyere and Parmesan, 76-77;
souffle pudding, 78-79; tort, 86-87;
Welsh rabbit, 82
Cheese making: adding starter, 6;
aging, 6; American cheeses, 7;
bacteria in, 6, 10; coagulating agents,
6; coagulation of milk solids, 5-6;
curdling milk, 6, 10; cutting and drying
curds, 6; draining whey, 6, 10-11; milk
in, 5-6; pressing, 6; producing lactic
acid, 6, 1 0; rennet, 6, 1 0; ripening
processes, 6, 12; treating cheese with
molds and bacteria, 6-7, 12
Cheese pie, 86-87; cheeses for, 86;
fluting edge, 87
Cheese tart, 86-87; baking shell,
87; melting cheese for, 86
Cheshire cheese: quali ties of, 5,
16
Chickens: breeding, 5
Cholesterol, 5
Coddling eggs, 23
Colby cheese: substituting lor
Cheddar, 13
CoHage cheese: buying, 12;
principles of cheese making, 10-11;
storing, 13
Cream: adding to shirred eggs, 20,
21; adding to souffle pudding, 79;
adding to vegetable purees, 32, 33;
baking eggs in creamed spinach, 28-
29; beaten with ricotto in rolled
cheese souffle, 80-81 ; combining with
Brie in cheese tort, 86; in pureed
sorrel, 65, 66; steaming eggs with, in
romekins, 28-29; stewing morels in,
32, 33; with tomato sauce on cheese
custard, 72-73
Cream cheese: buying, 12;
principles of cheese making, 10-11
Cream havarti cheese, 14
Creme fraiche : o French term for
lightly fermented or tort cream. An
American version con be made by
heating 1 cup [% liter ] of heavy - but not
u/tropasteurized -cream with 1 Y2
teaspoons [7 mi. ] of buttermilk or sour
cream to 85 F. [30 C. ]. The mixture is
then covered and allowed to stand at
room temperature (60 to 85 F. [15 to
30 C.] for six to eight hours. When a
spoonful lifted out and dropped onto
the surface forms o ring, the cream is
ready to use. Refrigerated, it will keep
for about o week.
Croquettes: fried, mode with hard-
boiled eggs and bread crumbs, 44-45
Croutons: souteeing bread cubes,
53
Curds: breaking down milk, 6;
composition of, 6; drying, 6; in English
Cheddar, 6; separating from whey, 6,
10- 11
Custard: baking in charlotte mold,
72-73; baking in romekins, 72, 73;
172
cheeses lor, 72; with lettuce, 73; of
eggs and cream, mixed with pureed
sorrel, 65, 66; with salt pork, 72-73
Danbo cheese, 16, 17; slicing, 13
Deep frying: eggs in assemblies,
38, 39; eggs in bread cases, 39;
cubes of cheese coated with egg and
bread crumbs, 88-89; eggs, 22;
testing temperature of oil, 22, 88
Duxelles, 80
Edam cheese, 16, 17; regulating
production, 7
Egg assemblies: artichoke bottoms
with mollet eggs, 39; artichoke
bottoms with puree of peas and
stuffed hard-boiled eggs, 40-41;
bread cases wi th prosciutto and
poached eggs, 38; cases lor, 36-37;
creamed sorrel gratin, 40-41;
croquettes, 44-45; deep-fried eggs in
bread cases, 38, 39; garnishes, 32-
33; gratineed, 38, 39, 40, 42-43, 58,
60-61, 63, 64; hard-boiled eggs in
onion-flavored white sauce, 42-43;
mallet eggs set in aspic, 46-47; pastry
shells with creamed morels and
poached eggs, 38; pastry shells with
poached eggs and asparagus, 39;
preparing eggs lor, 38; sauces, 34-
35; vegetable purees, 32-33
Egg dishes: baked in creamed
spinach, 28-29; in cheese souffle, 76-
77; in custard, 72-73; filled omelet,
58-59; layered omelet loaf, 65-67;
omelet gratin, 64; omelet sandwich,
60-61; pancake omelets, 62-63;
rolled omelet, 56-57; scrambled,
American-style, 50-51; scrambled,
French-style, 52-53; scrambled, with
tomatoes and basil, 54-55;
scrambled, with white wine and
cheese, 54-55; souffle omelet, 68-69
Eggs: adding raw yolk to a raux, 44;
age of, and peeling, 9, 24; air pocket
in, 8; albumen, 5; assembled dishes,
30, 31, 38-47; baked, 28-29; beating
whites in copper bowl, 68, 69;
buoyancy test, 8, 9; buying, 8-9;
cases lor assemblies, 36-37;
characteristics of whites and yolks, 5,
8-9; cholesterol in, 5; clarifying stock
with shells and whites, 46;
coagulation of whites and yolks, 5;
coddled, 23; cooki ng with (basic
techniques), 5, 19-29; cooking with
beaten eggs, 5, 8, 48-69; cooki ng
with whole eggs, 5, 9, 18-29; deep-
fried, 19, 22; dispersion test, 9; egg
wash, 75; garnishes lor assemblies,
32-33; glaze, 87; grading date, 9;
hard-boiled, 24-25; judging sizes and
grades, 8-9; mashing and seasoning
hard-boiled yolks, 40; mallet, 24;
nutrients in, 5; pan-fried, 20-21 ;
poaching, 26-27; production, 5;
proteins in, 5; sauces lor assemblies,
34-35; separating, .68; shell color, 9;
shirred, 20, 21; size categories, 8-9;
soft-boil ed, 23; steamed, 28-29;
testing for age, 8-9; trapping air in
whites, 5; wine with, 7
Emmentaler cheese, 16, 17; in
pastry shell, 75; pressing, 6; rind on,
12; shredding, 12; substitutions lor, 13
Farmer cheese: in blintzes, 90;
cooking with, 7; in custard, 72-73;
homemade, 10- 11; seasoning with
herbs, 1 0, 11; storing, 13
Feta cheese: qualities of, 5, 6, 14;
texture of, 12
Fines herbes: a mixture of finely
chopped fresh herbs -the classic herbs
being parsley, chives, tarragon and
chervil; 56, 65
Fondue, 82-83; cheeses lor, 82;
serving, 83; stabilizing, 82, 83
Fontina cheese, 16; coating cubes
with egg and bread crumbs and deep
frying, 88-89
Garam masala: an Indian ground-
spice mixture usually containing
cardamom, cinnamon, cloves,
coriander, cumin and black pepper. It
is available at stores that sell Indian
foods.
Garnishes: lor aspic, 46; for egg
assemblies, 32-33; raw vegetable,
32-33
Ghee: an Indian cooking fat made by
melting unsalted butter over low heat
and letting it simmer for 45 minutes to
enrich its flavor, then decanting the
clear liquid and discarding the milk
solids. Simple clarified unsalted
butter - produced by just melting
butter, letting it settle and decanting
it -may be substituted for ghee.
Gjetost cheese, 16, 17; heating
whey in, 6
Glaze: for pastry, 87
Goat's- milk cheese: baking
cheese wrapped in grope leaves, 88-
89; flavor of, 6, 12
Gorgonzola cheese, 14-15
Gouda cheese, 16-17; cutting, 12;
judging quality of, 12; regulating
production, 7; substituting for
Cheddar, 13
Grapevine leaves: using
preserved leaves, 88; wrapping bi ts
of cheese in and baking, 88-89
Gratin: the French term for a crust,
usually of cheese and/or bread crumbs
(although some gratins contain neither) .
It is formed by strewing the gratin
ingredients over the food and placing
the dish in a hot oven or under a broiler
so that the top crisps. The word is also
used for a cooked dish - a "gratin" -
that has such a finish; 7, 25, 38, 39, 40,
42-43, 58, 60-61. 62, 63, 64
Gratin assembly: creamed sorrel,
42-43; white sauce in, 38; zucchini-
flavored pancake omelet, 64
Green peppercorns: soft,
unripened peppercorns, obtainable at
shops specializing in spices and herbs.
Gruyere cheese, 16, 17; in
fondue, 82-83; in quiche, 74-75; in
rolled cheese souffle, 80-81; in
scrambled eggs with wine, 54-55; in
souffle, 76-77; substituting lor
Emmentaler, 13
Ham: in cheese pie, 86-87
Hard-boiled eggs: in assemblies,
40-41; cooki ng, 24-25; in creamed
sorrel gratin, 42-43; in croquettes, 44-
45; mashing yolks with butter and
mustard, 40; mollet eggs, 24; with
onion-flavored white sauce, 42-43;
peeling, 24, 25; preventing discolored
yolks, 24, 25; stuffing, 40-41
Herbs: adding to Iarmer cheese, 10,
11; adding to layered cheese
casserole, 85; adding to scrambled
eggs, 52, 54; in butter sauce with
poached eggs, 26-27; in rolled
omelet, 56
Hollandaise sauce: adding butter
to, 35; cooking in water bath, 34-35;
in egg assembly, 38; thinning, 35
Jarlsberg cheese, 16, 17;
substituting lor Emmantoler, 13
Julienne: o French term for food cut
into strips.
Kirsch: an alcoholic beverage made
by distilling small block Morello
cherries. It has a bitter-almond flavor
derived from the crushed cherry stones;
83
Lactic acid, 6, 10
Lettuce: in cheese custard, 73
Liederkranz cheese, 6, 15; beer
and ole with, 7; cutting curds of, 6
Limburger cheese, 15; beer and
ole with, 7; storing, 13
Livarotcheese, 14, 15; buying, 13;
buying, made from raw milk, 13
Marinade: a seasoning mixture,
usually liquid, in which food is steeped.
Most marinades are based on oil and a
tenderizing but flavorful acid liquid such
as vinegar, wine or lemon juice.
Marinate: to steep raw food in
flavoring ingredients, often o liquid
mixture, before cooking, in order to
impart flavor to the food and, in the
case of meat, to tenderize it.
Milk: in cheese-making process, 5-6,
1 0; coagulation of solids, 5-6, 1 0;
pasteurizing, 6; skim-milk cheeses, 6;
varieties of, 6
MimoleHe cheese, 16, 17
Mixed spices: a combination of
equal portions of ground spices and
herbs -classically, nutmeg, mace,
cinnamon, cayenne pepper, white
pepper, cloves, bay leaf, thyme,
marjoram and savory. It may be bought
ready-mode or con be assembled ot
home.
Molded dishes: cheese custard,
72-73; layered omelet loaf baked in
charlotte mold, 65-67; souffle
pudding, 78-79
Mollet eggs, 24; in assembled
dishes, 38, 39; peeling, 24; set in
aspic, 30, 46-47
Monterey Jack cheese, 14, 15;
wine with, 7
Montrachet cheese, 15
Morels: in egg assembly, 38;
stewing in cream, 32, 33
Mozzarella cheese, 15;
combining with other cheeses in pie,
86-87; in layered casserole, 70, 84-85
Muenster cheese, 15; wine with, 7
Mushrooms: in omelet loaf, 65-67;
puree, in egg assembly, 39; puree, in
omelet, 58-59; pureeing, 32
Mustard: mashing hard-boiled egg
yolks with, 40
Neufchatel cheese: buying, 12
Noekkelost cheese, 16, 17
Oil: deep frying cheese in, 88; deep
frying eggs in, 22; frying croquettes in,
44; testing temperature of, 22, 44, 88;
seasoning a new omelet pan with, 49
Oka cheese, 14, 15; ripening
process, 6
Olive oil: brushing wrapped cubes
of cheese with, for baking, 89; deep
frying cubes of cheese in, 88; deep
frying eggs in, 22; frying eggs in, 20;
and scrambled eggs, 54
O lives: in omelet loaf, 65-67
Omelet: beating eggs for, 56; fi lling
rolled omelet with mushroom puree
and poached eggs, 58-59; filling
rolled omelet with salmon and sour
cream, 56; fillings, 56; fresh herbs in,
56; gratin finish for, 58, 60-61, 62, 63,
64; incorporating cheese in, 56;
layered loaf of omelets, 65-67; pan
for, 56; pancake, 62-63, 64; pancake
filled with spinach, 62-63; pancakes
filled with zucchini, 62-63, 64; rolled,
48, 56-57; sandwich, 60-61;
seasoning a new pan, 49; slitting to
form pouch, 58-59; souffle omelet,
68-69; vegetable fillings, 60, 62;
zucchini-flavored, with gratin finish,
64
Onion: flavoring white sauce with,
42-43
Oregano: in layered cheese
casserole, 85
Pancake omelets: filled with
spinach, 62-63; filled with zucchini,
62-63, 64; gratin finish for, 64
Pan frying: basting eggs with fat,
20; blintzes, 90; croquettes, 44-45;
eggs, 20-21; fat for, 20; link
sausages, 50; sauce with eggs, 20,
21; turning and flipping fried eggs, 18,
20
Parboil: to cook food briefly in
boiling water or stock in order to soften
it or to shorten its cooking time; 28, 32,
33,39,52,60,62, 72
Parmesan cheese: in cheese pie,
86-87; cooking with, 7; cutting and
drying curds of, 6; grating, 7, 13, 76;
gratin topping, 38, 39, 40, 58, 60-61,
63; judging quality of, 12; qualities of,
5, 6, 17; in quiche, 74-75; in rolled
souffle, 80-81; storing, 13;
substitutions for, 13
Pastry (short-crust) : baking
empty shell, 74-75; baking in stack of
tart pans, 37; cases for egg
assemblies, 36, 37, 38, 39; casing for
cheese pie, 86-87; filling a tart shell
with melted cheese, 86-87; preparing
and rolling dough, 37; quiche shell,
74
Peas: puree of, in egg assembly, 40-
41; pureeing, 32
Pecorino Romano cheese, 16, 17
Peppers: roasted and charred, to fill
rolled cheese souffle, 81
Pipo crem' cheese, 15
Poached eggs: in assemblies, 38,
39; in bread cases, 38; cooking in
water, 26-27; filling omelet with, 58-
59; keeping older eggs from
spreading, 26; liquids, 26; pan for,
26; in pastry shells, 38, 39; in potato
cases, 39; trimming, 26, 27; wine with,
7
Pont l ~ v e q u e cheese, 15; rind
on, 12
Port-Salut cheese, 15; ripening
process, 6; wine with, 7
Potatoes: case for egg assemblies,
38, 39; sieving, 36
Prosciutto: in egg assemblies, 38,
39
Proteins: in cheese, 6, 7; in eggs, 5
Provolone cheese, 16, 17; in
cheese pie, 86-87; regulating
production, 7
Pureeing: mushrooms, 32; peas,
32; potatoes, 36; sorrel, 32, 33;
spinach, 32, 33; tomatoes, 34, 35;
vegetables, 32-33
Pyramide cheese, 14, 15
Quatre epices: o French term for o
mixture of ground spices, usually
pepper, nutmeg and cloves and either
cinnamon or ginger, making four in all.
Although ovoi/ob/e commercially, it con
easily be assembled by combining Y2
teaspoon [2 m/. ] of ground cloves, 7
teaspoons [35 mi.] of ground white
pepper, 2 teaspoons [10m/.] of ground
ginger and 1 teaspoon [5 mi. ] of
ground nutmeg. The proportions may
be adjusted to your taste.
Quiche au fromage, 74-75;
cheeses in, 74; fillings for, 74
Raclette cheese, 17
Ramekins: baking cheese custard
in, 72, 73; baking eggs in, 28-29;
cooking souffle pudding in, 78-79;
steaming eggs and cream in, 28-29
Reblochon cheese, 15; buying,
made from raw milk, 13
Reduce: to boil down o liquid to
concentrate its flavor; 33, 34, 35, 54
Render: to refine animo/ or poultry
fat for cooking by melting the pure fat
out of the fleshy tissues.
Rennet: used in making cheese, 6,
10
Ricotta cheese: in cheese pie, 86-
87; cheese-making process, 6, 10- 11;
filling rolled cheese souffle, 80-81;
heating whey in, 6
Ri cotta salata cheese, 17
Rolled cheese souffle, 80-81;
baking filled roll, 81; cheese for, 80;
fillings, 80; ratio of egg whites and
yolks, 80
Rolled omelet: filled with
mushroom puree and poached eggs,
58-59
Romano cheese: cooking with, 7;
grating, 7; substituti ng for Parmesan,
13
Roquefort cheese, 15; fl avor of, 6;
heating whey in, 6; ripening process,
6; wine with, 7
Saffron: the dried stigmas from a
species of crocus. Used to import o
distindive aroma and yellow color to
certain dishes. Sold in thread or
powdered form.
Sage Derby cheese, 16, 17
Salmon: and sour cream fi lling in
rolled omelet, 56
Salt pork: flavoring cheese custard
with, 72-73
Sapsago cheese, 16, 17; texture
of, 12
Sauce: for egg assemblies, 34-35; in
gratins, 38; with hard-boiled eggs,
42-43; herb-and-butter, 20, 21;
hollandaise, 34-35; onion-flavored
white, 42-43; with pan-fried eggs, 20,
21; tomato, 34, 35; white, 34-35. See
also Individual sauces
Sausage: border for omelet
sandwich, 60; pan frying, 50; piercing
to release fat, 50
Saute: to fry food in just enough oil
or fat to prevent it from sticking; 32, 33,
36,41,42,52,53,62,63
Scrambled eggs: adding water,
50; American-style, with sausages,
50-51; beating eggs for, 50; cooking
time, 49, 50; French-style, on wire
rack set in hot water, 52-53; with
tomatoes and basil, 54-55; with white
wine and Gruyere, 54-55
Shirring eggs, 20, 21
Simmer: to heat o liquid to a
temperature ranging from 135to 160
F. [60to 70C. ]. The surface of the
liquid will tremble but the bubbles will
not burst violently; 33, 34, 35, 42
Soft-boiling eggs: coddling, 23;
cooking fresh egg, 23; opening soft-
boiled egg, 23
Sorrel: cream, in omelet loaf, 65-67;
creamed, gratin, 42-43; filling for
omelet sandwich, 60; pureeing, 32,
33; reaction with aluminum or cast
iron, 33
Souffle, 76-77; baking time and
temperature, 76; beating egg whites,
76, 77; cheeses for, 70, 76; making a
cap, 76; ratio of white sauce and
cheese to eggs, 76
Souffl e omelet, 68-69; beating
eggs, 68; beating whites, 69; reaction
of egg whites with copper, 68
Souffle pudding, 78-79; adding
cream and grated cheese, 79; adding
extra yolks, 78; cheeses for, 78;
sauces with, 78; white-sauce base, 78
Spinach: baking eggs in creamed,
28-29; in egg assembly, 39; in omelet
loaf, 65-67; in pancake omelet, 62-
63; parboiling, 28, 62; pureeing,
32, 33
Steaming: eggs and cream in
ramekins, 28-29
Stilton cheese, 17; wine with, 7
Swiss cheese, 17; storing, 13
Taleggio cheese, 15
Tapenade, 40; flavoring hard-
boiled yol ks, 40
Tarragon: in herb-and-butter
sauce, 26-27
Tomato: halves for cases, 36;
loosening skins, 54; in omelet loaf,
65-67; reaction with aluminum, 34; in
scrambled eggs, with basil, 54-55
Tomato sauce, 34, 35; adding to
layered cheese casserole, 85; adding
to white sauce, 34, 38, 41 ; and
cream, served with custard, 72, 73; in
egg assembly, 39; reducing
tomatoes, 34, 35; served with
croquettes, 45
Tomme de Savoie cheese, 15
Truffles: adding to scrambled eggs,
52
Veal stock, 46-47; adding
gelatinous meats, 46; clarifying with
egg whites and shells, 46; removing
fat, 46; setting, 47; skimmi ng, 46
Vegetables: cases for egg
assemblies, 36; in cheese pie, 86;
fillings for omelet sandwich, 60;
garnishes, 32-33; in omelet loaf, 65;
in pancake omelets, 62; parboiling,
32; pureeing, 32-33; in quiche, 74; in
scrambled eggs, 52, 54. See a/so
Individual vegetables
Vinegar: in sauce for pan-fried
eggs,20,21
Water bath: o Iorge pot or vessel
containing water that surrounds a
smaller container placed on o rock.
Used to gently cook or reheat sauces
and other preparations that ore too
delicate to withstand contod with o
stove's burner, or that might bum or
crust on the bottom in the oven; 10, 19,
28,29,34-35, 49, 52-53,65,67,72-
73, 78-79, 86
Watercress: in aspic, 46-47; wilting,
46
Welsh rabbit, 82
Whey: drinking, 1 0; heating to
coagulation, 6; separating from
curds, 6, 10- 11, 16
White sauce: as base for other
flavorings, 34; as base for souffle
puddi ng, 78; cooking, 34-35; in
croquettes, 44-45; in egg assemblies,
36, 38, 39, 40-41 ; enriching with egg
yolk, 44; in filled omelet, 58-59; in
gratin, 38; onion-flavored, with hard-
boiled eggs, 42-43; ratio of, to eggs,
in souffle, 76; removing taste of fl our
from, 34, 42; roux, 34; in souffle, 76,
77; tomato-flavored, 34, 38, 41
Wine: with cheese platter, 7; cooking
cheese in, 82; in fondue, 82-83;
reducing, 54; in scrambled eggs, 54-
55; serving with eggs and cheese, 7
Zucchini: in omelet loaf, 65-67; in
pancake omelet, 62-63, 64; shredding
and salting, 63
173
Recipe Credits
The sources for the recipes in this volume ore shown below.
Poge references in parentheses indicate where the recipes
appear in the anthology.
Allen, Ida Bailey, Best Loved Recipes of the American
People. Copyright 1973 by Ruth Allen Castelli. Reprinted
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Francesconi, Jeanne Carola, Lq Cucino Napoletano.
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Laasri, Ahmed, 240 Recenes de Cuisine Marocaine.
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Publishers, London(106). How to Cook Eggs and Omelets in
300 Different Ways. Word Lock Ltd., London. Published
by Word, Lock & Co., limited, London. By permission of
Word Lock Limited Publishers, London(103, 140).
Serra, Victoria, Tio Victoria' s Spanish Kitchen. Engli sh
text copyright Elizabeth Gili, 1963. Published by Kaye &
Word Ltd., London, 1963. Translated by permission of Eliz-
abeth Gi li from the original Spanish entitled "Sobores: Co-
cine del Hog or" by Victoria Serra Sunol. By permission of
Kaye & Word Ltd.( 129).
The Settlement Cookbook. Copyright 1965, 1976
by the Settlement Cookbook Co. Reprinted by permission
Acknowledgments
The indexes for this book were prepared by Louise W.
Hedberg. The editors ore particularly indebted to Pot
Alburey, Hertfordshire, England; Shelley Bartholomew,
Washington, D.C.; Maggie Block, London; Barbaro Day,
Eagl e Wine and Cheese, Washi ngton, D.C.; Roland S.
Golden, Tracy Schonrock, Richard Webber, Dairy
Standardization Branch, U.S. Deportment of Agri culture,
Washington, D.C.; and Ann O'Sullivan, Majorca, Spain.
Picture Credits
The sources for the pictures in this book ore listed be/ow.
Credits for each of the photographers and illustrators ore
listed by page number in sequence with successive pages
indicated by hypl:ens; where necessary, the locations of
pictures within pages a/so ore indicated -separated from
page numbers by dashes.
Photographs by John Elliot: 9 - top, 18, 20 - top, 21 - top
and bottom right, 22, 26-30, 33 - center and bottom, 34 -
bottom, 35 - bottom left and bottom center, 37- bottom
right, 38-45, 46-47 - top, 48, 52-53, 58-59,62, 63 - top
left and top center, bottom left ond bottom center, 64,
66 - bottom right, 77 - bottom, 78-81, 86-87 - top.
176
of Simon & Schuster, a division of Gulf & Western
Corporation ( 158).
70 Medecins de France, Le Tresor de Ia Cuisine du
Bassin Mediterroneen. Published by Les Loborotoires du Dr.
Zizine(97).
Sherman, Margaret, The Wine and Food Society's
Guide to Eggs. The Wine and Food Society Publ ishi ng
Company 1968. Published by Michael Joseph Ltd., Lon-
don, in association with The Wine and Food Society. By
permission of Michael Joseph Ltd.( 118).
Simon, Andre L., Cheeses of the World. Copyright An-
dre L. Si mon, 1956. Published by Faber and Faber Ltd.,
London. By permission of Faber and Faber Ltd.(150-151,
159).
Sing, Phia, Traditional Recipes of Laos. Prospect Books
1980. Published by Prospect Books, London and Washing-
ton, D.C. By permission of the publi sher(105).
Slater, Mary, Caribbean Cooking for Pleasure. Copy-
right Mary Slater 1970. Published by The Homlyn Publish-
ing Group limited, London. By permission of The Homlyn
Publishing Group limited( lOO).
Stan, Anisoara, The Romanian Cookbook. Copyright
1951 by Anisooro Sta n. Published by Citadel Press, Inc.,
New York, 1969. By permission of Ci tadel Press, Inc.
(112).
Szathmary, Louis, American Gastronomy. Copyright
1974 by permission of Contemporary Books, Inc.,
Chicogo(1 17).
Tendret, Luci en, La Table au Pays de Brillot-Savorin.
Published by Li broirie-Dordel , Chombery 1934. Translated
by permission of Jacques Groncher, Editeur, Poris( 113).
T enison, Marika Hanbury, Recipes from a Country
Ki tchen. Moriko Hanbury Tenison 1978. Published by
Hart-Davis, MocGibbon Ltd./Granada Publishing Ltd.
Hertfordshire, Englond(147).
Thurber, Carol Coliver (The Mod Hotter), The Calypso
Cookbook. Published by Ashley Books Inc., New York
1974. By permission of Ashley Books lnc.( 109).
Toklas, Alice B. , The Alice B. Toklos Cook Book. Copy-
right 1954 by Alice B. T oklos. Published by Harper and
Row Publishers, Inc., New York. By permission of Harper
The editors also wish to thank: Sue Altman, London; Pierre
Androuet, Fromogers Androuet S. A, Paris; Alison
Attenborough, Essex, England; Mary Attenborough, Essex,
England; Caroline Boum, York, Englond; .The British Egg
Information Service, London; Emma Codrington, Surrey,
England; Beryl Downing, Warwickshire, England; English
Country Cheese Council, London; Mimi Errington, London;
Susan Foresman, Arlington, Virgi nia; Henrietta Green,
London; Foyol Greene, London; Harrods Cheese
Deportment, London; Maggie Heinz, London; Brenda
Joyes, London; Mario Johnson, Hertfordshire, England;
Photographs by Bob Komar: 20 - bottom, 21 -bottom left
and bottom center, 23 - top right and bottom, 33-34 -
top, 35 - top and bottom right, 36 - top, 37 - center
middle and center right, bottom left and botlom center, 54-
55, 70, 72: 73, 82-85,86-87 - bottom, 88-89 - top.
Other photographs (al phabetically): Tom Belshaw, 32 -
bottom, 36 - center and bottom, 56 - top and bottom
right, 57,88-89 - bottom. John Cook, 10-1 1,47 - bottom
right, 60-61, 63- top right and bottom right, 65, 66-
except bottom right, 67, 68 - top right and bottom, 69, 76,
77 - top. Alan Duns, cover, 4, 8, - top, 23- top left, 24-
25, 32 - top, 35 - center right, 37 - top and center left,
46 - bottom, 47 - bottom left and bottom center. Louis
Klein, 2. Aldo Tutino, 8-9 - bottom, 12-17, 50-51,56-
bottom left, 68 - top left, 74-75,90.
and Row Publishers, lnc.(115). Aromas and Flavors of Post
and Present. 1958 by Al ice B. T oklos and 1955 and
1956 by the Hearst Corporation. Published by Michael Jo-
seph Ltd., London. By permission of Michael Joseph
Ltd.( I 56).
Tribus, Sue, The Wonderful World of Breakfast. Copy-
right 1964 Pergamon Press Ltd. Publ ished by Pergamon
Press Ltd., Oxford. By permission of Pergamon Press
Ltd.(98).
Vence, Celine and Robert Courtine, The Grand
Masters o f French Cuisine. Copyright 1978 by G. P. Put-
nom's Sons, New York. O riginally published in France as
Les Grands Moltres de Ia Cuisine Fron>oise. Copyright
1972 Editions Bordas. Published by G. P. Putnam's Sons,
New York. By permission of G. P. Putnam's Sons(132).
Verdon, Rene, The White House Chef Cookbook. Copy-
right 1967 by Rene Verdon. Reprinted by permission of
Doubleday & Company lnc.(148).
Volpicelli, Luigi and Secandino Freda, L'Antiortusi:
1000 Ricette. 1978 Pan Editrice, Milano. Published by
Pan Editrice, Milan. Translated by permission of Pan
Editrice(161 ) .
Voltz, Jeanne A., The Flavor of the South. Copyright
1977 by Jeanne A Voltz. Published by Doubleday & Com-
pony, Inc., New York. By permission of Doubleday &
Company, lnc.(158).
Willinsky, Grete, Kulinorische Weltreise. 1961 by
Mary Hohns Kochbuchverlog, Berl in W. Published by Bu-
chergilde Gutenberg, Frankfurt. Translated by permission
of Mary Hohns Kochbuchverlog, Munich(138, 156).
Wilson, Jose and Betty Grott, Good Earth and Coun-
try Cooking. Published by Stackpole Books, Harrisburg,
Pennsylvania . By permission of Stackpole Books(163).
Witty, Helen and Elizabeth Schneider Colchie,
Better Than Store-Bought. Copyright 1979 by Helen Witty
and Elizabeth Schneider Colchie. Published by Harper &
Row, Publishers, Inc., New York. By permission of Harper
& Row, Publishers, lnc.(163, 164).
Zelayeta, El ena, Elena's Secrets of Mexican Cooking.
Copyright 1958 by Prentice-Hall, Inc. Published by Pren-
tice-Hall , Inc., Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey(159).
Dr. Norman Knowles, The Eggs Authority, Kent, England;
Edouord Longue, Paris; Ninette Lyon, Paris; Carol
Mason, Washington, D.C.; Pippa Millard, London;
Sonya Mill s, Kent, England; Wendy Morris, London; Dilys
Naylor, Surrey, England; Paxton & Whitfield Ltd.,
London; Michael Schwab, London; Anne Stephenson,
London; Stonegote Formers Ltd., London; Fiona
Tillet, London; Jeremiah Tower, Son Francisco;
J. M. Turnell & Co., London; Ti na Walker, London;
Caroline Wood, London; Stacy Zacharias, Alexandria,
Virginia; A P. Zender, London.
Illustrations: From the Mary Evans Picture Library and
private sources and Food & Drink: A Pictorial Archive from
Nineteenth Century Sources by Jim Horter, published by
Dover Publications, Inc., 1979, 93- 167.
Library of Congress Cataloguing in Publication Doto
Time-life Books.
Eggs and cheese.
(The Good cook, techniques & recopes)
Includes index.
1. Cookery (Eggs) 2. Cookery (Cheese) I. Time-life Books
11. Seroes: Good cook, technoques & recipes.
TX745.E43 641.6'75 80- 14824
ISBN 0-8094-2893-8
ISBN 0-8094-2892-X (lib. bdg.)
ISBN 0-8094-2887-3
Printed in U.S.A.