37

FIGURE 3-1: DON JUSKO’S RCW COLOR WHEEL

In this chapter, we refer to Don Jusko’s Real On the RCW, the colors on the outside of
Color Wheel and how it relates to the the wheel are pure hues. What you can add
Makeup Artist. to alter these colors is a tint with white, a
tone with white and the complement color,
HOW TO USE THE COLOR WHEEL or a shade with just the complement color.
This will determine the final outcome of
A color wheel in this true form gives
that color, including the addition of
the artist a tool to create different hues
analogous relationships next to each other
and to shade them to neutral darks. The
on the wheel. Always start matching or
Makeup Artist would take this one step
plotting a pure color from the outside of the
further by considering what colors also
color wheel—this is the pure hue. Finding
would work under different conditions:
the correct color or area of color, you can
lights, color corrections, color grading, and
decide where to go from there. For example,
so forth. The following will give you the
if you want to find the complement of the
basic language used to decipher the
color that you have already plotted, go to
blending of hues.
the opposite side of the color wheel. You
To begin to understand how to use the will know the color will work. You can then
color wheel, it is important to know where to tint, tone, or shade that hue to get the
start. desired effect.
 FIGURE 3-2: APPLE PRIMARY COLORS

38
C OL O R

FIGURE 3-3: SECONDARY COLORS AND A WHEEL

TERMS Secondary Colors (Figure 3.3): Colors that

Hue: Any color. are made by mixing together two primary
colors.
Primary Color (Figure 3.2): There are three
Red: Made by mixing yellow and
primary colors. They can be mixed together
magenta.
to make all other colors. Transparent Yellow
is PY 150 or PY 153. Transparent Magenta Blue: A combination of magenta and
is PR 122. Transparent Cyan is PB 15. cyan.
 FIGURE 3-5: A BLACK & WHITE SCALE

FIGURE 3-4: A TINTS COLOR WHEEL

39

Green: A mixture of cyan and yellow.

Tints (Figure 3.4): Made by adding white to
any hue. FIGURE 3-6: DOTS OF COLOR

Dual Tone: A pigment that changes hue

from mass tone to top tone. In other words,
Classic color schemes will help you to
a color that changes as it gets lighter—not
decipher which way to plot a color on the
just in value, but in its actual color. For
color wheel.
example, a brown color that changes to a
bright yellow color is a dual tone. Purple Monochromatic (Figure 3.5): Any one color
that changes from a cool dark to a warm mixed with white.
light is a dual tone.
Analogous (Figure 3.6): Colors next to each
Top Tone: Adding white to a color. other on the color wheel—for example,
orange and red or yellow, orange and red,
Mass Tone: Color right out of the tube or
or cyan and green.
pure powder pigment.
Complementary (Figure 3.7): Any
Undertone: Adding clear media
colors 180 degrees apart on a 360-degree
Transparent: Dyes are clear—you can see wheel.
through transparent dyes.
Triadic: Any three colors that are 120
Translucent: Milk is translucent—it can degrees apart on the wheel, usually primary
never be transparent by adding a clear colors.
medium.
Split complementary colors are formed like
Opaque: Dense, like a small rock—it a Y on the color wheel—one color on each
cannot be seen through. side of a complementary color.
40
C OL O R

FIGURE 3-7: RCW WHEEL

Opposition, or complementary, pigments

make neutral darks. If you mix two opposite
pigments, the color will result in a darker
hue. This enables the Makeup Artist to work
with darker pigments without using black. FIGURE 3-8: CADMIUM YELLOW LIGHT, CADMIUM
It is also a great way to mix pre-existing YELLOW MEDIUM, ULTRAMARINE BLUE

makeup when you want to form a darker

shade. Because the pigments complement
each other, there will be a natural look to
your work. The darker pigments will not
Blue (Figure 3.8). Notice that yellow
clash against the skin tone of the person
darkens to brown. Brown and ultramarine
you are working on.
make the neutral dark.
The following outlines the six opposition • Cadmium Orange is opposite Cobalt Blue
colors and the neutral darks they will (Figure 3.9).
generate.
• Burnt Sienna (Figure 3.10), which
• Cadmium Yellow Light and Cadmium is a dark orange, is opposite Cobalt
Yellow Medium are opposite Ultramarine Blue.
• Opaque Cadmium Red Light and Red yellow green to be used as the opposition
Dark are opposite Cyan (Figure 3.11). color.
Cyan is also called Thalo Blue. The chart in Figure 3.14 illustrates how
• Quinacridone Magenta Transparent you can combine pigments to produce
PR122 is opposite Thalo Green (Figure browns.
3.12). The chart will also show you how to mix
• Purple is opposite Yellow Green (Figure pigments that will give you cool browns or
3.13). Green Oxide Opaque is a dark warm browns. Brown neutral tones in

41

FIGURE 3-9: CADMIUM ORANGE AND COBALT BLUE FIGURE 3-13: PURPLE OPPOSITE YELLOW GREEN

FIGURE 3-10: BURNT SIENNA

FIGURE 3-11: OPAQUE CADMIUM RED LIGHT, CADMIUM

RED DARK AND THALO BLUE

FIGURE 3-12: QUINACRIDONE MAGENTA TRANS. PR:122 FIGURE 3-14: BROWN PIGMENT CHART WITH YELLOW
AND THALO GREEN TO BROWN NATURAL OXIDES, BOTH RAW AND BURNT
 makeup are generally complementary to are colors used to get skin tones. Colors
most skin tones, and especially with eye from yellow to red all darken to brown,
shadow for a more natural look. For either by adding brown or by mixing
natural-looking makeup, a variety of neutral brown. All skin colors have a range of 10
browns flatters and registers well for the tints and 10 darks for each of the seven
camera. Highlighting and contouring with colors. To make a skin tone lighter, you will
neutral browns has a less harsh effect. In take the color already plotted and lighten it
situations where browns register darker on with white or yellow. To make a skin tone
film, staying with neutral browns avoids darker, you will take the color already
having your brown registering too dark and plotted and darken with browns and the
unflattering. Remember that what you complement color. The Makeup Artist can
decide to use is the outcome of the problem also change existing foundations or mix
solving for the makeup situation you have your own by using the color wheel.
42 at the time. What is the skin tone? What is
the lighting situation? Is this a makeup
COLOR FUNCTION
C OL O R

special effect? What medium is it? Are you

Usages and combinations of color greatly
working in theatre, film, television, HDTV,
affect your final makeup application
or print? Whatever the situation, knowing
(Figure 3.15).
what pigments make brown is a plus.
You will also need to address the
undertones in the skin, eyes, and lips. Color
MIXING PIGMENT FOR
can balance, conceal, correct, or show
FLESH TONES
emotion. Example: If there is too much red
by Don Jusko in the face, you can apply a green or yellow
Every skin tone is unique. All the colors and under or over the foundation to neutralize
ranges of colors from #1 yellow to #7 red the red.

FIGURE 3-15: TUBE PIGMENTS FOR COLOR FUNCTIONS

You need to understand how colors neutralize reds (for example, to tone down
function in relation to makeup artistry. ruddy skin tone or broken capillaries in the
face). Warm greens (with yellow added)
Red is one of the secondary colors. Magenta look good on golden tones, or golden skin
is a primary color. The complementary tones. Cool greens (with cyan or blue
color to red is cyan. Red is made by mixing added) look good on cool tones, or skin
yellow and magenta. A cool cherry red with cool undertones. Green is also used in
(RCW #12.6.5) will bring life into a darker bruising and to portray illness, cold, or
cool skin tone, but only if the skin tone is rotting. Green is also used to cover tattoos.
cool as well. Orange red will give a healthy Green or shades of green should not be
glow to golden skin. Red is also used in used in greenscreen work—anything green
makeup effects to show sun damage, alcohol becomes invisible.
abuse, windburn, crying, skin lesions and
rashes, bruising and trauma to the skin, Orange is a warm color that is between 43
and to neutralize any gray undertones in yellow and red on the RCW. The
appliances, and tattoo cover-up. complementary color to orange is
halfway between cyan and blue, called
Blue is a secondary color. The complement Cobalt Blue (RCW #22). Orange is a
to blue is yellow. Cyan is a primary color. vibrant color that can be used as a
Blue is a combination of magenta and cyan. highlighter on warm and dark skin tones.
Blue will work with most skin tones. Blue Orange is a good color to use for masking
and shades of blue should not be used for out blue, as in beard stubble and covering
bluescreen work—it will disappear. Blue tattoos. Orange also will neutralize blue
can be used in makeup to portray illness, undertones (or blue lighting) in dark skin
death, cold, and freezing, as well as bruising tones.
of the skin.
Violet (RCW #14) is the color between
Yellow is a primary color. The purple and magenta. Violet is a cool color.
complementary color to yellow is blue. The complementary color to violet is
Yellow is used to add warmth to other chartreuse. Violet is used to correct too
colors. Yellow browns (gold) in eye much yellow or shallowness in skin tone.
shadows, blushers, and lipsticks flatter Most cool skin tones look good in the color
golden skin tones. In makeup, yellow can violet. In makeup, violet and combinations
be use to portray illness, weakness, rotting, of violet are used for bruising, wounds,
and bruising. freezing, and death.

Green is a secondary color. Green is a Pink is red with tint (white) added. There is
combination of cyan and yellow. The a warm pink, which is a light red, and a
complement color to green is magenta. cool pink, which is magenta. Pink is
Green can be cool (blue green) or warm flattering to most skin tones. Magenta pink
(yellow green). In makeup, green is used to is good on cool skin tones. Warm pink
 (with golden tones added) looks good on edges. Use the RCW in Figure 3.1 for
warm skin tones. In makeup, pink is used reference.
in eye shadows, lipsticks, and blushers to 2. Paint in the correct colors on your
show good health. wheel.
Black is often used to darken another color 3. After you are done painting, number and
and make a shade of that color. Shading name the wheel.
colors can also be made by mixing opposite
colors together. Black mixed with white Lesson Two: Complementary Pigments Make
makes a neutral gray. Cool, darker skin Neutral Darks
tones tend to look good in black. In 1. Draw three simple contour drawings of
makeup, black is used in eye shadows, an object or face.
eyeliners, brow color, and mascara. Black 2. Pick three of the opposition colors in
can be used to add drama or depth to Figure 3.7 to use as details, shadows, or
44
existing colors. highlights (for example, Cadmium
Orange and Cobalt Blue are opposition
C OL O R

White is added to other colors to make

colors).
tints. In makeup, white or off-white can be
used as highlighters, or to make darker 3. Use the colors separately and mixed
colors stand out. Cool, darker skin tones together to create neutral darks.
tend to look good in white.
Lesson Three: Complementary Pigments Make
COLOR LESSONS Neutral Darks
1. Use the example from Lesson Two, but
Color is one of the most important things to
instead follow the brown pigment chart
have a good understanding about. The more
(Figure 3.14) for reference.
you use what you read, the easier using
color becomes. Whether you use a
Lesson Four: Creating Several Skin Tones
traditional color wheel or the Real Color
1. On artist paper, create several skin tones
Wheel is up to you. The lessons address
by using pigments that have been tinted
using the different primary colors, but the
or darkened accordingly. Remember to
knowledge can also be used for more-
use all the ranges of color from #1
traditional ways of color mixing. Just think
yellow to #7 red.
of these color lessons as a way to mix to get
even more color choices. 2. Darken these colors to brown by mixing
your browns.
Lesson One: The Color Wheel 3. When you come up with skin tones you
1. Using artist paper and a pencil, like, write down, next to the color, the
draw a Real Color Wheel. Be sure to use exact combination you used. This is a
the correct dimensions and straight way to keep records for future use.