FUNDAMENTALS OF HAIR COLORING AND HAIR

BLEACHING
Hair coloring (tinting) is the science and art of changing the color of the hair. Hair
coloring involves the addition of an artificial color to the natural pigment in the hair, or the
addition of color to the lightened hair. Hair lightening is a partial or total removal of the
natural pigment or artificial color form the hair. The Art and Science of hair color is a
transforming experience. It’s a process of reinvention that brings hair to life in a new way
through chemistry —the way product formulas react with hair. That’s why the application of
hair color is both an art and a science that requires imagination, creative expression, intuition,
the ability to listen and consult plus technical knowledge and skill. The combination is
inspiring, and the possibilities are endless.
PRELIMINARY STEPS ON HAIR COLORING
A. Health and Safety Precautions
Observing safety precautions is a primary
requirement when conducting hair coloring service.
Cosmetic art science has developed precise practices
for every type of hair coloring available. These
procedures are followed in all modern salons and are
complaint with State and Federal Laws. Each procedure
covered in this module is the acceptable and customary
method for the specified application. Be cautious while
performing hair coloring applications and never underestimate the necessity of
observing every level of safety. Hair coloring involves the application of a variety of
potentially harmful chemicals. Therefore, the care you take in handling products and
preparing yourself and the client is absolutely critical to safe and successful coloring.
 Ensure all tests are carried out
 Always gown your client properly so that they are protected from spill
of chemicals
 Always wear personal protective equipment every time you perform
hair coloring service.
 Wear disposable gloves, dry hands thoroughly and regularly moisturize
to prevent contact dermatitis
 Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions; never deviate from the
tried-and-tested formula.
 Make sure that your work position is clear and that your posture is
correct.
 Make sure that the client is comfortable throughout, as they will be
sitting for some considerable time.
 Avoid inhalation of powder lighteners – be very careful when you
dispense powder lightener into a bowl. The particles are very small and
tend to ‘dust’ into the air very easily. This is a hazardous chemical
compound which can cause respiratory condition
B. Initial Client Consultations
The first procedure for any hair coloring service is the initial client
consultation. Prior to patch tests, strand tests or any other format of analysis, we must
find out what the client wants in order to know what directions to go in. Find out if
the client wants to go lighter, darker, highlights, or lowlights, new growth retouch,
virgin color, cover gray, color correction or a combination of those services. Conclude
if the goal is realistic and achievable in regard to her natural color level, and the
condition of her hair.
The consultation should be done facing the client and observing her hair in
natural sun light and not under artificial lightings, many salons do not have natural
sunlight at their work stations, and that’s the case for you, go to a window area where
the sunlight is available in order to see the true level and shade of her hair. If the
client has had previous color treatments, look for any over processed areas or
discoloration. Look at her new growth, mid length and ends. Look at her scalp for any
signs of conditions.
C. Hair Assessment
Analyze the client’s hair to determine the amount of gray, texture, length, and
condition. Observe her seasonal color pallet. Is she warm, cool, what color are her
eyes and skin undertones? Ask her leading questions to get her talking about what she
wants so you can be fully informed of her ideas. Allow her to speak with no
interruptions. She might remember additional information such as chemical services
in the past that maybe she had forgotten about that might still remain on her ends.
This would be important to know. Getting a full and complete history is irreplaceable
in the color consultation. Hair analysis is an important elements of client consultation
helping you to determine the condition of the hair and scalp. Senses of sight, smell
and touch provide a wealth of information to the skilled stylish. However correct
testing is required is required to confirm the condition of the cortex, the porosity of
hair, any allergic sensitivity to a product and the presence of chemicals from previous
treatment.

Porosity Test
Porosity is a measure of the hair`s capacity to absorb moisture. Damaged hair
will be highly porous with an open cuticle layer
exposing the inner cortex. Hair in this condition will
look dull and dry, and may be prone to breaking. The
more porous hair is, the faster a treatment will take
effect and processing times should be adjusted
accordingly. Porosity will vary, this is particularly
common in long hair, with oily roots and dry ends.
How to assess or determine the coarseness of the
hair.
Smooth and glassy- the cuticle is dense and hard. Hair with poor porosity may lack
moisture and maybe resilient to treatment.
Slightly rough – usually indicates healthy , normal hair.
Rough- Too porous hair may have been treated previously. Use a preconditioning
treatment
 Very rough, brittle and dry- Indicates damaged hair, which maybe the result of over
processing. Use a repair treatment or cut out the damaged parts.
Diameter test- fine hair will normally be more prone to excessive oil or overloading
or thick hair may take longer to react to a treatment. Assessing the diameter of hair
will provide useful information when deciding on a repair treatment or adding color
or curl.

Elasticity Test
The elasticity of hair can be determined by the condition of the cortex, well-
conditioned hair is springy and bouncy. In order to test, for elasticity take a single
strand of hair between both thumbs and forefingers and stretch the hair.
Healthy hair will stretch roughly an extra 1/3 its length and return to original size.
While dry or brittle hair may break when put under tension. Use the results from this
test to determine whether additional care is required prior to any treatment.

5 BASIC RULES OF HAIR COLOR EVERY STYLIST SHOULD KNOW

1. Learn how to use the color wheel.
2. Understand how to add and remove hair color pigments.
3. Determine the correct Hair Color darkness levels.
4. Always know how long hair takes to absorb.
5. Apply Hair Color approximately to each hair section.
Hair color is a science. That is one of the reasons why chemistry is covered in beauty schools.
Hair coloring works by using chemicals to penetrate each hair cuticle and bond with the hair.
You need to understand the basics of hair color so you can achieve the right color and don’t
damage your client`s hair.
1. How to use the Color Wheel
Understanding how to use the hair color wheel is essential. Mixing two complimentary colors
will achieve a neutral brown color. When you are trying to achieve a certain color for your
client, you`ll need to understand the natural pigment of the hair, then find the correct level of
color on the opposite side of the color wheel.
2. Understand how to add or remove color pigments
All hair contains yellow, red, and blue pigments. When you`re lightening hair, you are
removing pigment. When you`re darkening hair, you`re filling with color. You must know
what pigments you`re adding or removing in order to know what color will remain.
3. Determine the correct hair color darkness levels
The darkness level of hair is determined by a scale of 1-10. One is always black and ten is
always the palest blonde.
4. Always know how long hair color takes to absorb
A timing error can damage your client’s hair. Coarse hairs generally take more time to absorb
color, while the fine hair takes less time to absorb color. Dry or permed hair may also absorb
color more quickly. The best way to preview the hair color is always a strand test.

5. Apply hair color approximately to each hair strand

If your client has uneven hair, you must break down the areas of the head and formulate color
accordingly for each area. You cannot apply the color from scalp to ends and get even results.
Apply each section approximately and you`ll get even results on uneven hair.

PRODUCTS, IMPLEMENTS AND SUPPLIES

Coloring is arguably the most exciting and often most difficult aspect of hairdressing.
The increasing demands and expectations of clients have made coloring, and in particular
special color effects, the ‘must have’ of hairdressing. Our clients are better informed,
have a better understanding, are more aware of what’s on offer and are often keen to have
a go themselves. This has led to a change in salon coloring. The amount of business done
by the home coloring market is huge and this has had a particular impact on salon-based
work. It is now more technically demanding than ever before, but this new challenge is
not a threat. It now enables all hairdressers to be more professional in their role, explore
their creativity and further develop their technical skills.
A. Coloring Tools and Equipment and their Use
a. Measuring flasks and mixing bowls–
measuring hydrogen peroxide at any strength
must be accurate; the amount used in relation to
color is a critical factor to successful outcome.
All gel and cream colors, when mixed, will be
stiff enough not to run or drip when either on
the brush or on the hair.
b. Brushes – used to distribute color evenly and
accurately on the hair; these must be thoroughly
washed and sterilized between clients.
c. Sectioning clips – these are used to section the hair to make applying the color
easier; they also prevent different sections of hair touching once the color has
been applied.
d. Barrier cream – used as a physical barrier to prevent staining around the client’s
face/hairline. Also, particularly useful if client has any general sensitivity to
chemical-based products.
e. Disposable vinyl gloves – It is recommended as best practice to wear a glove of
30cm in length to offer protection to the wrist area.
f. Towels and gowns – each client must have a fresh, clean towel and gown. These
should be washed on a suitable (washing machine) wash program at 60°C to
remove any soiling or staining and to prevent the spread of infection by killing
any bacteria. Fabric conditioners may be used to provide a luxurious softness and
freshness. Most salons have special ‘color-proof’ gowns for coloring and
 lightening processes. These gowns are resistant to staining and are made from
finely woven synthetic materials that will stop color spills from getting through
onto the client’s skin or clothes.
B. Hair Coloring Products
There are two categories of hair coloring products: oxidative and non-
oxidative. Oxidative hair color agents incorporate the used of developers to increase
the longevity of the color. They penetrate the hair strand and through oxidation
become part of it. Oxidation is when the chemical substances combine with oxygen.
Non-oxidative color agents are applied without developers and stay primarily on the
outside or just under the surface of the cuticle layer. They are released through the
shampooing process.
 Permanent hair tint- oxidative
 Demi-permanent hair tint- oxidative
 Semi-permanent hair tint/toners- non-oxidative
 Temporary color rinses/shampoos- non-oxidative
 Lighteners (bleaching agents)- oxidative
● Lightening agents–in permanent tints are hydrogen peroxide and ammonium persulfate-
based product that will diffuse natural pigment. When the color is sufficiently lightened, only
then will the deposit process of the tint pigment take place. Once pigment is removed, it will
not return to that area of the strand, and tints with lightening agents should not be reapplied to
that area. Reintroducing a product with lightening agent will only compromise the integrity of
the hair structure, producing a much weaker strand. If fading has occurred or if a different
shade is desired, consider applying a demi-permanent product.
● Pigment–dye ingredients derived from a coal tar product, are known to cause sensitivity or
allergic reaction. A patch, predisposition or skin test must be done on the client’s skin 24/48
hours prior to application as required by law. Pigment from this source behaves more like
natural melanin than any other dye product. It penetrates into the strand and remains fixed to
the internal structure through the oxidation process. As it gains entrance to the strand, it
expands when it is oxidized and becomes trapped beneath the cuticle layer. Healthy hair
strands keep the newly formed granules in place with little if any fading. Manufacturers use
primary color pigments to create various shades of color based on a ppm (parts per million)
formula. They incorporate the amount necessary to infuse an average textured hair strand for
maximum coverage of existing melanin or replacement of diffused melanin. Pigments present
are coordinated with lightening agents in permanent tints. In dark tints, there is far less
lightening agent than pigment for deposit. In high lift tints, the opposite is true; the mixture is
predominantly lightening agent with very little pigment for deposit.
● Shampoo or cleansing agent–activated by water at the conclusion of the service, these
products are included for the easy removal of the tint. Tints are designed to be worked into a
lather with the addition of warm water. This is a step most commonly skipped, colorists
usually perform a thorough rinsing of the tint product and then application of a separate
shampoo. This is counterproductive to the nature of the shampoo ingredient which is to
release the majority of the tint product from the hair. The foaming action reduces the density
of the product allowing it to lift from the hair and scalp.
● Alkalizing agent–Hair naturally has an acidic pH, whereas alkalizing agents are bases.
During the tinting process, a change in pH opens the cuticle and shifts the internal salt bonds
to expand the strand, allowing the natural melanin to disburse and give room to the newly
oxidized color granules. Once the hair’s pH is restored with the removal of the tint, the hair
remains slightly enlarged, which adds body to the strand.
● Conditioning agents–typically a form of oil is used to add shine and softness to the hair.
● Peroxide based developers are added to permanent tints prior to application. Many
developers are a mixture of water, peroxide, cetearyl alcohol, alkalizing agents and
phosphoric acids.

TYPES OF HAIR COLOR

It’s important to understand the types of hair color products that are available to guests
depending on the desired outcome and how long they want the color to last. There are
four categories of hair color:

A. Permanent
Permanent hair coloring products are designed to lift existing color deposit product
color. Professional permanent hair coloring tints penetrate into the interior of the hair
strand and have the capability of darkening a light shade to the lowest level of darkness.
Be aware of what primaries are missing in the strand so it can be reintroduced to avoid off
tones in the darker levels. Permanent tints also have the ability to lift out natural pigment
and lighten the shade up to three levels. For example, when looking at a color chart, going
from a level 5 up to an 8 is quite a remarkable difference. Consider the ability of a tint in
the event that a client has hair at a natural level of 7 or above. Using a hair lightener
(bleaching agent) in this situation instead of a tint is purely overkill. High lift tints give
outstanding results with perfectly toned shades in warm, neutral and cool colors. High lift
tints are gentler on the strand than lighteners. They effectively remove natural pigment
and give the strands a polished tonal value in one application. Basically, permanent hair
coloring products completely change one’s hair color and/or enhance one’s natural hair
color by brightening it or darkening it.
Permanent hair coloring products require patch test 24 to 48 hours before application
because it contains aniline derivatives. Permanent hair coloring products create a
permanent change in the hair by lightening the existing natural color by removing color
pigments. This is the primary reason that are called permanent colors- because of
permanent removal of natural pigment.
B. Demi-Permanent
Demi-permanent hair coloring products are designed to only deposit product color.
They contain coal-tar dyes that adhere to the hair shaft. Demi-permanent hair coloring
products are not designed to lighten natural hair. Demi-permanent hair coloring products
are used in coloring services for the following purposes: (1) To refresh previously colored
that has faded. (2) To enhance one’s natural hair color. (3) To deemphasize gray hair so it
 blends in better to the overall color of the person’s hair. (4) To use as a toner to
chemically pre-enlightened hair. (5) To use as a filler for a color correction procedure.
Demi-permanent hair coloring products are oxidative thus require patch test before
performing the procedure. They require a developer. They only deposit color and do not
lighten. They are less alkaline than permanent hair coloring products and require lower
volume developer. Many demi-permanent hair coloring products do not use hydrogen
peroxide as the oxidizing agent like with permanent hair coloring products. They do
contain the same dyes as permanent hair coloring products therefore requiring a patch
test. Demi-permanent hair color products do not have the ability to decolorize hair. Demi-
permanent color is a great choice for refreshing the hair shaft area and ends when
performing a new growth hair color service. It keeps hair coloring build-up to a minimum
using this technique.
C. Temporary Hair Coloring Products
Temporary hair coloring products are non-oxidative thus they do not require patch
test. They do not require a developer. Temporary hair coloring products only coat the hair
and are easily shampooed away. No chemical change in the hair occurs. There are various
types of temporary hair coloring products in the marketplace and many new products
arriving frequently.
D. Semi-Permanent
Semi-permanent hair coloring products are designed to fade over time. They often last
about four to six weeks depending on how many times the hair is shampooed. Semi-
permanent hair coloring products are not mixed with peroxide. Although, they do not
lift or lighten the natural hair color and only deposit color semi-permanent hair color
still requires patch test.

TYPES OF HAIR COLORING APPLICATION

Hair color application is a chemical process that requires a neat and organized
workspace and logical work flow. Proper sectioning and sub sectioning lay the foundation for
thorough product application and consistent hair color results. There are two major types of
application.
1. Applicator bottle: Part the hair with the nozzle. Hold the bottle in your dominant
hand and distribute product on the hair. Bottle should be large enough to hold both
the color product and developer and there should be enough space for shaking
product to thoroughly mix. For a 1:1 ratio, pour 1 ounce of developer into bottle
and add 1 ounce of color; put top on bottle; shake gently. For 2:1 ratio, pour 2
ounces of developer into bottle; add 1 ounce of color, and mix.
2. Bowl and brush: Part the hair with the brush end. Scoop products with the brush
and apply liberally to both sides of the sub-section. Use a nonmetallic mixing
bowl; measure developer into bowl; add color or colors you have selected in
appropriate proportions; using tint applicator brush, stir mixture until thoroughly
blended.
HAIR AND SCALP ANALYSIS
The hair and scalp are carefully examined to determine if it is safe to use an aniline
derivative tint and whether any special hair tinting problems exist. The result of such
examination may indicate the need for any of the following:
1. Reconditioning treatment
2. Removal of hair color
3. Testing hair for discoloration
4. Testing hair for breakage
An aniline derivative tint should not be used if the following conditions are recognized:
1. Signs of positive skin test
2. Scalp irritation or eruptions
3. Contagious scalp or hair disease
4. If metallic dye or compound dye is present
If the scalp and hair are in a healthy condition, carefully observe and record data on a
permanent record card.

ALLERGY REACTIONS TO HAIR COLORING PRODUCTS

Hair dye allergies occur when the immune system responds to certain chemicals that are
placed on the skin. The most common form of hair dye allergy manifests as contact
dermatitis, an itchy, flaky rash. Generally, this is the result of an allergen that comes into
contact with the skin, which then elicits an immune response from the body: antigens form
and interact with T-lymphocytes (part of the immune system's defense mechanism), and this
triggers a release of inflammatory cytokines, which causes a localized inflammatory response
to fight off what the body sees as a foreign invader. Rarely, the body will release a substance
known as immunoglobulin E (IgE) into the bloodstream as a result of a more serious allergic
reaction to dye. The release of IgE will trigger the eruption of specialized white blood cells,
known as mast cells, which flood the body with histamine. Histamine is the substance that
triggers the cascade of symptoms we recognize as an allergy. The chemical in hair dye most
likely to cause an allergy is para-phenylenediamine (PPD). PPD is found in more than two-
thirds of permanent hair dyes and is effective at not only penetrating the hair shaft but
binding to proteins in the skin. Other potential allergens include cobalt found in brown hair
dyes and glyceryl thioglycolate used for permanent cold hair waves.
Symptoms
The hallmark symptoms of hair-dye related contact dermatitis are redness, itchiness, and rash
on the face, eyelids, ears, and neck. While rashes are less common on the scalp due to the
thickness of the skin, there may be a stinging or burning sensation as well as a generalized
redness. The allergic reaction will usually develop within two to three days of using the dye
and resolve within several days to weeks. In rare instances, exposure to hair chemicals can
cause a potentially life-threatening, all-body reaction known as anaphylaxis. Anaphylaxis
tends to develop rapidly, within hours rather than days, and manifest with serious symptoms
such as:
 Raised and swollen hives
 A severe blistering rash
 Swollen eyes, lips, tongue, hands, or feet
 Lightheadedness or fainting
 Wheezing and shortness of breath
 Nausea and vomiting
 Confusion
Diagnosis
While a hair dye allergy will often be self-evident, an allergy test may be appropriate if a
person has multiple allergies or has experienced a particularly bad reaction. Some people will
also take the test to determine if there are other dye products they can use. Allergy testing
should be performed in a physician's office. The most common form is the patch test in which
a battery of suspected allergens is placed on the skin. The patch is typically removed after 48
hours, and a final reading approximately four days after the initial placement is performed to
see what, if any, reactions have taken place. A positive result is characterized by the
appearance of small, red bumps or blisters. Note that small areas of redness seen on the day
that the patch is removed may go away by the final reading, and in that case would simply
indicate an irritant reaction and not constitute a true positive allergy.
Treatment
If you experience a hair dye allergy, topical corticosteroid creams may be used to relieve
inflammation and itching. Weaker versions such as hydrocortisone 1% are available over the
counter but more potent formulations require a prescription and would be used in more
significant reactions. Overuse of stronger formulations can lead to the permanent thinning of
the skin (known as cutaneous atrophy). This is especially true on the delicate tissues of the
face. Topical corticosteroids are generally not used around the eyes, and should only be used
in that area when directed by a physician. There are other topical formulations, such as Elidel
and Protopic, that may be more appropriate for treating a facial rash. Severe allergies may
require systemic corticosteroids delivered either in pill form or as an injection.

THE EFFECTS OF HAIR TREATMENT TO HAIR COLORING ACTIVITY

Changing up your look can be refreshing. Trying out the latest hair trend or straying
from your natural hair color is a fun and exciting way to go about updating your look. But
when it comes to color-treating your hair, there’s a lot to consider. From which look to go for
to which colorist to visit, the entire experience can feel like information overload. In many
cases, color-treatment clients step out of the salon and take a breath of relief as they show off
their new ‘do. However, the process of color-treating your hair shouldn’t stop when you leave
the salon chair.
Taking care of your hair so it remains healthy and holds onto that new color is just as
important as the initial treatment. Since color-treated hair tends to be a little more fragile than
unprocessed hair, it’s important to be gentle when heat styling. Blow drying, curling, and
straightening hair without a proper heat protectant can lead to irreversible damage and,
eventually, breakage. If possible, limit the frequency of your heat styling to once per week.
When you do style your hair with heat, make sure to use a quality heat protectant product to
minimize damage.
Color treatments can leave hair feeling dry and brittle, so it’s important to restore your
hair’s moisture by regularly using a deep conditioner. This can be in the form of a leave-in
conditioner, a traditional deep conditioner to be used in the shower, or a hair mask. These
products add much-needed nutrients to your hair and help to quench your thirsty tresses.
Make sure to use a treatment like this weekly, or as needed. If your scalp tends to be on the
oily side, focus the product on your ends — this is most likely where your hair needs
moisture the most anyway.
Whether your hair is processed or not, split ends and breakage are natural. Since
processed hair tends to dry out more easily, it needs to be trimmed regularly to keep the ends
nice and healthy. Getting rid of those dry ends will improve the overall appearance of your
hair. It’s also smart to discuss your hair goals with your stylist so you two are in alignment
with the direction you want to take your hair. For example, if your stylist is aware that you’re
trying to grow your hair out, he or she should take that into consideration when trimming
your hair. If you establish a regular trimming regimen, only trimming off a tiny bit each time
will be effective.
There are tons of chemicals and elements that you come into contact with daily that
can be damaging to color-treated hair. Try being hyper-aware of any potential damage: if
you’re going to spend the day in the sun, try throwing on a cute hat to protect your hair from
the damaging rays. If you’re going swimming in a chlorine-treated pool, wear a swim cap or
put your hair in a bun and avoid submerging your head. The gentler you are with your
precious tresses, the healthier they will be.

PERFORMING THE PATCH TEST

Patch tests are not intended for diagnosis or treatment of health conditions. A patch
test is also known as predisposition test. The term predisposition is defined as: the state of
being predisposed or susceptible to something, especially to a disease or health problem. In
this case it refers to a client being predisposed to being allergic or sensitive to the aniline
derivative tint in the hair coloring product. Therefore, to determine whether a client will have
a negative reaction, we must perform the patch test 24-48 hours before the procedure.
To perform a patch test:
1. Choose a testing area either on the inside of the elbow or behind the
ear.
2. Wash a small area with a gentle soap, rinse and dry
3. Mix a small amount of the hair coloring product (used the shade and
brand that you intend on using for the service) in the same ratio as a
customary application
4. Using a cotton swam, apply color mixture to the cleansed area.
 5. Do not rinse or remove for 24 to 48 hours.
6. After 24 to 48 hours look at the patch test area to determine if there are any signs of
inflammation, rash or welts
7. Record the results onto the client’s service and record card

PERFORMING THE SKIN TEST

A skin allergy test is the test that checks whether you are allergic to the hair color.
Even a person who has used hair color for many times in the past without any irritation has a
chance of having irritation due to constitution change. Be sure to conduct the skin allergy test
two days (48 hours) before coloring hair every time. When conducting take the following
procedure. The skin allergy test is the most effective method to check the potential of allergic
reaction by hair color. There is no alternative to the skin allergy test at the present time. To
judge the condition, it is necessary to check the immediate-type reaction that occurs after
short time from starting the test and the delayed-type reaction that occurs after long time from
starting the test. To achieve that it is necessary to check the test part twice in total after 30
minutes and after 48 hours. Follow the instruction leaflet and be sure to conduct the skin
allergic test 48 hours before coloring hair every time. In case any irritation occurs
immediately see a dermatologist. The longer it takes to get appropriate medical attention the
longer it takes to treat the symptoms. It is important to get medical treatment as soon as
possible.
Method of skin allergy test
1. Prepare the test mixture. Mix small amounts of Colorant and Developer of the hair
color to be used at a specified proportion with a cotton swab on a saucer (do not use a
metallic saucer) to prepare the test agent.
2. Apply the test agent. Apply the test agent on the medial side of the arm by using a
cotton swab in a size of about 1 square inch. Naturally dry the test agent. If the
applied test agent does not dry even after approximately 30 minutes lightly wipe with
tissue paper.
3. Leave for 48 hours. Leave for 48 hours without touching. Be sure to check and
follow the time instruction. Avoid taking a bath or shower on the day of the skin
allergic test if at all possible. If taking a bath or shower is unavoidable pay close
attention not to wet or rub the skin where the test agent is applied.
4. Be sure to observe the test part twice after 30 minutes and after 48 hours from
application of the test agent. At that time if there is any rash, redness, itch, blister,
irritation or any other skin abnormality, rinse the test part with water immediately. Do
not rub the test part with hand. Do not use the hair color. If any of above symptoms
appears even before 48 hours from the test, abort the test immediately and rinse off
the test part. Do not use the hair color. If there is any skin abnormality as a result of
the skin allergic test see a dermatologist.
A negative skin test shows no
sign of inflammation.
A positive skin test is recognized by redness, swelling, burning, itching, blisters, or
eruptions.

APPLYING HAIRCOLOR
A. Tinting to a Lighter Shade

Materials: Talcum powder

Towels Selected color tint
Hydrogen peroxide
Cape Tools:
Color chart mixing bowls
Protective gloves comb
Rinse Timer
Cotton Applicator
Record card Tint Brushes
Shampoo Swab Sticks

Preliminary Steps:
1. Give preliminary patch test 24 hours before coloring
2. Proceed with the coloring if the patch test is negative.
3. Examine patron’s scalp.
4. Color maybe applied with an applicator bottle or brush
Preparation
1. Prepare all needed materials and implements.
2. Prepare the patron.
3. Re-examine patron’s scalp.
4. Select desired color.
5. Put on protective gloves.
6. Make color strand test.
7. Prepare the formula.
Procedure
1. Section the hair into four quarters.
2. Sub-divide section into one fourth-inch strands.
3. Pick up a strand of hair. Hold it away from the head.
4. Apply color to the hair one-inch from the scalp to hair ends.
5. Finish the application of color section by section.
6. Let color develop for about 15 minutes.
7. Take strand test to check color development.
8. Apply tint mixture to scalp area. Be sure all hair is saturated
9. Leave tint until the desired color has developed evenly from scalp to the ends.
10. Rinse hair with lukewarm water to remove excess color.
11. Remove stains around the hairline, ears, and neck.
12. Shampoo hair and rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Towel dry
 13. Style hair.
14. Fill out record card and file

B. Tinting to a Darker Shade

Follow the same preparation and procedure as used for one step tint to a lighter
shade with the exceptions:
1. Select color darker than client’s/patron’s natural hair color.
2. Apply the tint from the scalp area to hair ends.
3. Shampoo and rinse in the usual manner when the color has developed evenly
from scalp area to hair ends.

DIMENSIONAL HIGHLIGHTING
A partial highlight service is when a stylist adds highlights that are visible around the
face and on the sides of the hair. The stylist does not touch the back of the hair. This is
probably not the look for clients that wear your hair half up and half down often. Typically, a
stylist does a partial highlight for a client that is seeking color dimension. Dimension is a
contrast of light and dark tones. An example of dimensional color might be created by
adding lighter hair color to natural hair color creating a contrast and the “dimensional color”
look. For even more dimension, clients will request lowlights to darken part of the hair.
Partial highlights and lowlights are often requested when a client is seeking even more
contrast. Lowlights create a darker toner while the highlights brighten the look of the hair.
This is perfect if you are seeking a dimensional color like the one shown in the picture.
 PREPARE CLIENT
The first procedure for any hair coloring service is the client consultation. Prior
to patch tests, strand tests or any other format of analysis, we must find out what the client
wants in order to know what direction to go in. Find out if the client wants to go lighter,
darker, highlights, lowlights, new growth retouch, vignette color, cover gray, color correction
or a combination of those services. Conclude if the goal is realistic and achievable in regard
to her natural color level, and the condition of her hair.
The consultation should be done facing the client and observing her hair in natural sun
light and not under artificial lighting. Many salons do not have natural sun light at their work
stations, and if that is the case for you, go to a windowed area where the sun light is available
in order to see the level and shade of her hair. If the client has had previous color treatments,
look for any over processed areas or discoloration. Look at her new growth, mid length and
ends. Look at her scalp for any signs of conditions.
Millen booking the client for the consultation, pencil-in no less than 15 minutes. If she
is a new client introduce yourself and tell her a little bit about your services and your salon.
Make her feel welcome and at ease. There should be an understanding of etiquette to all
employees in your salon that interruptions or intrusions are forbidden when stylists are with
their clients. Give the client an information card and pencil so she can give you information
about her hair care history and any previous chemical services she has had.
Analyze the client's hair to determine amount of gray, texture, length and
condition. Observe her seasonal color pallet. Is she warm, cool, what color are her eyes and
skin undertones? Ask her leading questions to get her talking about what she wants so you
can be fully informed of her ideas. Allow her to speak with no interruptions. She might
remember additional information such as chemical services in the past that maybe she had
forgotten about that might still remain in her ends. This would be important to know. Getting
a full and complete history is irreplaceable in the color consultation.
If you are consulting at your work station, remember to face the clients and do
not look at her through the mirror to communicate. It is impersonal to communicate in
that manner. Look directly at her and not her reflection to see all things and to communicate
all things. It is however acceptable to do that later while servicing the clients, but not during
the consultation stage.
When speaking with the client, ask her questions that give you precise knowledge
about what she has in mind. Ask her directly, “are you thinking more of a temporary color
change or a permanent color change?”. Are you thinking of overall color or highlights? Are
you thinking of overall color enhancement similar in my styling to what your natural color is?
Would you like to look at several models in my styling books that demonstrate these
examples?
Show her your portfolio. Nothing personalizes your relationship more with your
client than to show her photos of your work. It’s also the most accurate way to show her your
level of ability.
 Show her color swatches of different shades that are possible to achieve her
planned new hair color. Show her colors that are best for her skin tone and eye color. Keep
in her appropriate color pallet with either warm, cool, or neutral shades.
If the client says, “I want a dark chocolate brown shade”, then by showing her color
swatches you will be able to determine exactly what level of “dark chocolate brown” she
plans to go. In her mind, it may be dark chocolate but in reality, she may point to a color
swatch that is in fact more of a light brown as in a “milk chocolate” or tan family. Having an
understanding of your client’s idea of color level is imperative. What better way to find out
the true meaning of her terminology than what a visual example.
Upon reaching an understanding of what the client wants, it is now time to explain to
her what processes need to happen to achieve it. Explain to her whether it will be one or two
steps (or more) and the reality of how close you can come to exactly what she has described.
If several steps are involved and there is not sufficient time to perform them in one
day, let the client know that it will take several visits to complete.
The service can be scheduled 24 to 48 hours before patch test is performed. Upon
determining that the patch test is negative the hair coloring process can be performed at any
time thereafter. Make clear that the hair coloring service is completely contingents upon
having a negative patch test.
Also, different hair coloring services are going to be different prices. You must be
complete and accurate in quoting the exact cost for the services. If there are any problems
with affordability for the client to get what she wants, you can suggest alternative services
that will still give her a desirable color change but will fit better for her budget. For example,
if the client really wants an overall color to cover gray and additional highlights in 2 different
shades from the occipital bone and up that could run into quite a bill at the end of the day. If
the client cannot afford that, suggest a one-step color that will cover the gray as well as
lighten her level 2 shades. Suggest that she can come back in a couple of weeks to add a more
dimensional look using highlights/lowlights, when she can work that in to her budget. Often
times the client will see that suggestion as a good alternative and it allows them to still be
able to make an immediate change for a new look. So, get creative not only with your
haircoloring talents but with alternative budget solutions. The client will appreciate your
thoughtfulness and it will prevent the client from feeling embarrassed about her monetary
limitations. You could gain a customer for a life-time by making sure that she never feels
humiliated. Remember to discuss hair color maintenance. Give her true ideas of how often
she will need to come back for touch-ups to maintain her new look. Give her the estimated
price for those future visits as part of the initial consultation. The following is a simple of a
simple Client Intake Form. This form is to be presented to the client just before you begin the
formal consultation.
10 key points to every basic consultation.
1. Review the Client Intake Form: P1ease do not interrupt the client when she is
completing the Client Intake Form Wait to begin your conversation after she is done and you
have thoroughly read all of her answers. Do not ask her the same questions that she has just
answered on her form Ask questions that relate or give your further information about
specifics that she has listed
 2. Assess your client's hair style: Observing the overall style of the client and her
current hairstyle can give you insight as to what she may want, however do not underestimate
the possibility that the client may want to go with a whole new look It is typical that a person
with an older classic style may want to stay classic -but would like a newer more updated cut
and color Keep an open mind with your observation.
3. Client preferences: Ask the client what are her when it comes to styling her hair at
home. Does she mind spending 20 minutes Instead of 10? Does she incorporate blow-drying
or flat-ironing? Find out what she about her current style and what she doesn't like.
4. Analysis: Assess the length, thickness, condition, texture and color of your client’s
hair Make notes especially if you observe any problems that will need attention in the
upcoming service. Take note of baldness, thinness, discolorations, damage or breakage.
5. Lifestyle of the client: A client's lifestyle often dictates the amount of time and
effort she is willing to give to her hair on a daily basis. Is she solely in a professional
environment in which her hairstyle is a significant part of her persona, or does she work at
home in which she can have a less formal styling regimen?
6. Show her visuals: During the consultation provide the client with hairstyling
books and see what styles she gravitates to. See if she has unrealistic expectations, or If she
seems drawn to near-opposite half textures as to what she possesses. If she tends to be drawn
to smooth straight styles but her hair is over-curly, she will need to be Informed of the
process that would be necessary in achieving straight hair and what it will take to maintain
and style it. However, most people are abundantly aware of the hair that is on their head and
what it will and will not do. Be open to what they tell you. The client is the one who has
experienced the ups and downs personally and she will be your best source of knowledge.
7. Cut suggestions: After gathering this vast array of knowledge, use your best
judgment and lay out the possibilities. Consider her hair type, her facial shape, her body type,
her lifestyle and her color pallet Show her haircuts that suit her hair texture.
8. Color suggestions: show her hair coloring applications that fit her persona,
lifestyle and hair type. Show her color swatches and color charts and explain several looks
you could achieve and the colors you could use. Find out which ideas appeal to her the most.
9. Maintenance: Inform the client as how often she will need to visit the salon to
maintain cut and color. Inform her about home haircare, products that she will need to use
and products or environmental elements to avoid.
10. Re-cap the plan: Repeat the plan to the client and confirm with her each step-
and that is all understood.
Client consultation and analysis should not be a daunting task. What makes it unpleasant to
some professionals is the seeming overload of information to be gathered, sorted and
processed, all in a short period of time. Being insecure of your ability to determine texture
variances, porosity, and evaluation of underlying pigment will hinder the gathering portion.
Sorting is akin to placing information in a specific file for easy retrieval. If these issues make
the process seem loathsome, ease your stress by creating a system and make it an ingrained
habit. By creating a tactile routine and using your senses of touching, visualizing, speaking
and hearing, your muscle memory and auto pilot processes will kick in. If your current
system doesn’t include a written record, create one. Or if one exists and the document is
arranged in a disorganized manner, make changes that make sense to you. Like in written
math problems, they can be presented in the long form or you can use the short form. Either
one is perfectly usable, but one works better for some than others. This is the key; use what
works, make it work for you. If you work in a salon where there is a standard form that is
mandated for all employees to use, great! But if it’s not meeting your needs to organize your
analysis, why not also use your own “worksheet”? Over the years, there have been many
samples of analysis forms for various salon services in textbooks that were merely copied and
put into use. Most are outdated, and may contain too many line items that are check box
nightmares or have unusable or poorly presented data requests. Frequent updates or review of
printed documents and supplies are needed. An example of a client consultation worksheet
would contain the
following statistics:
● Client’s name and the usual demographics such as address and contact information.
● Standard hair analysis indicators such as form, length, texture, density and porosity.
● Evidence of previous color service or chemical texture service in the hair, list
product used if possible.
● Natural color level, tone, underlying pigment and intensity. Indicate whether it
varies from scalp to ends.
● Percentage of unpigmented or gray hair.
● Detailed description desired color. Indicate single or multiple shades and placement
of color hues. Drawing of the head shape showing placement may be helpful.
● Color formulations used, include volume of developer.
● Processing time.
● Comment section for your opinion on the outcome and for theclient’s opinion as
well.
Compare your client’s pre-service analysis to that of a doctor’s exam of a patient.
Consider the implications of an incorrect diagnosis from a doctor. You are in effect making a
diagnosis for your client. Take into account the years a doctor spends in education,
specifically the residency portion of training. This is the hands-on element, with real patients,
with real medical concerns. How much time did your training devote to hands on client
analysis? Obviously, the medical profession has a seriously greater impact on life events than
hair coloring, but this analogy should help to verify the importance of a regimented process
that gets easier with lots and lots of practice and exposure to variables. Statistics show that
activity training causes a more learned response than that of reading or listening to lecture. At
the end of these segments, there will be suggestions for activities to improve the analysis
process that have been used with great success.
Analysis of hair qualities is the single most important step in a pre-service consultation. It is
after all the very fabric that you are changing. A caution to performing accurate assessments
regarding hair qualities is the presence of product in the hair. The nature of styling aids is to
leave behind gloss, body or texture as well as rigidity. Also, some shampoos and conditioners
infuse oils or polymers onto the strand. The best analysis is done on hair that is clear of
buildup. Many inaccurate conclusions are derived due to a coating on hair strands. Texture is
the size or diameter of the individual hair strand. Among individuals, hair texture is varied
regardless of race, ethnicity or state of colorlessness. That is to say that not all Caucasian hair
is fine, not all Asian or African American hair is coarse. And regardless of genetics, not all
gray hair is coarse or wiry.
Texture is directly related to the lack of or presence of a medulla layer, the amount of fibrous
cords in the cortex as well as the mass of the cuticle layer. The concentration of the cortex
fibers and the number of layers in the cuticle provide bulk to the strand. These layers increase
in size with exposure to chemicals. Therefore, it is entirely possible to alter the texture of the
hair through salon services such as hair color. When judging texture, be sure to evaluate the
entire strand. There may be a variance in diameter from scalp to ends. This will assist in
formulation. Texture is described as: Fine, medium, and coarse. Medium texture is generally
accepted as the one most commonly found.
APPLYING HAIR COLOR