1971 Chevrolet Vega OM Ocr PDF

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INTRODUCTION
Your Vega has many fine features. One of these is a designed-in
ease of service and maintenance. Sooner or later you're going to
want to try your hand at performing some of these maintenance
procedures yourself. This booklet has been prepared especially for
those of you who are new to this kind of undertaking but will be of
equal interest if you have had wider mechanical experience. You'll
find all you need to know, written in an easy to follow style giving
needed parts, tools and procedures. The Table of Contents will
locate general areas, the Maintenance Schedule will help you relate
specific procedures to the recommended time and mileage intervals,
and the Index at the rear of the booklet will locate specific items.
We know you'll enjoy your Vega and part of this enjoyment will
be in keeping it in top shape yourself.
Caution: As with any machinery. extreme care should be taken when

performing any maintenance or repairs so as to prevent accidental
injury. Improper or incomplete servicing could also result in vehicle
operational problems. Should you have any question about performing
any service. have the service performed by a qualified mechanic.
We welcome your comments and suggestions.
All informati'o ncontained

in this booklet is the lat- Chevrolet Motor Division
est product information
available at the time of General Motors Corporation
printing. The right is re- Detroit, Michigan 48202
served to make changes at
any time without notice.
ST-302-71 Part No. 3988975

© General Motors Corporation 1970 Third Edition, February, 1971
1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
Maintenance Schedule Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Lubrication ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .......... 6
Engine ......... . . ................... . . . . . 6
Front Suspension ...... ' ... . ..... ... .... . . . 10
Powerglide and Torque Drive .. . .... . 11
Manual Transmission .................. 14
Rear Axle ........... .. .. ... . .. . .. . . . . . . . . . 15
Manual Steering ..... . .. .. . ... .. .. . .... ... . . 16
Power Steering ........ . .. .. ..... ...... .... . 16
Brake Master Cylinder .......... . .. .. . .. . ... . 18
Body Parts ... . .... . . . .. .. .. . .... .. . . . . . . 18
Wheel Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Tune-Up. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Battery Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Belt Condition and Tensioning .. . ..... 29
Distributor Maintenance ... . . .. ....... 31
Spark Plugs ......... . ..... . .. " 37
What Spark.Plugs Can Tell You About
Your Engine . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ... . .. .. .. 38
Engine Timing ... ........ . ........... '. 43
. Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve .......... . . 45
Evaporation Emission Canister . . . . . .. . ... .. . 46
Carburetor ......... . . . ... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48
Valve Adjustment ..... . . .. .. . .... . . .. . 52
Lighting ....... .. . ............ . ... ...... . . . . 55
Head Lamps ............................ 55
Tum Signal Lamps . . .. . . . .. ... . .. .. ..... 59
Side MarkerLamps . . .......... 60
License Plate Lamps . . . . . . . ............" 62
Dome Lamp ......... ................. 63
Instrument Cluster Lamps 63
Automatic Transmission Shift Quadrant Lamp 64
Tum Signal Flasher . . . .......... 65
Four-way Hazard Flasher . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Instrument Cluster ........ . . . . .. .. . ... . .... " 66
Fuses . . . . . .. .... ..... . . . ..... . .... . . . 69
2
TABLE OF CONTENTS (cont'd.)
Page
Tires and Shock Absorbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 70
Tires ....... . . ... ...... . .. .. . .. 70
Tread Wear Indicator .............. 70
Tire Inspection . . . . . . .. . .. . ........ . ... 71
Tire Changing .... . . . . . . . . . . .. . ....... . . 74
Tire Rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Shock Absorbers 76
Front Shock Absorbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 77
Rear Shock Absorbers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Engine Cooling and Air Conditioning . . . .. . . 79

Cooling System ............ 79
Cooling System Flushing .. . , . . . . . . . . . . 80
Air Conditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81
Inspection ........ 81
Refrigerant Quick Check Procedure 82
Brakes and Clutch . . ... . ... .. ....... . _... .. . . . . 84

Brakes 84
Brake Lines 85
Parking -Brake 85
Front Brakes 86
Rear Brakes ......... 90
Bleeding the Hydraulic System. 90
Clutch 92
. Clutch Pedal Free Play Adjustment ... . . ... . . . 92
Sheet Metal 93
Sheet Metal Removal . 93
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement 99
Minor Trouble Shooting . . . . .. 100

Trouble Shooting Guide . 101
Fuel System and Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Electrical System ..... . .. . .. . . .. .. . ... .. .... 103
Cooling System . .......... . 104
Vehicle Support Information . . . . .. . . . .. . . . .. ... . 105
Index . . . ... . . . . .. . .. .... 109
3
MAINTENANCE
SCHEDULE
INDEX
Periodically
Page
• Check the oil level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . .. 8
• Check the energizer fluid level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
• Check all the lights for proper operation . .. . .. .... ... . . . 55
• Inspect seat belts . . See Owners Manual
• Inspect tires . ..... . ... 70
Every 6,000 Miles or 4 Months
(whichever comes first)
• Change the engine oil-more often during severe
operating conditions 8
• Change the oil filter at the first oil change, then
at every other oil change . ....... 8
• Lubricate the front suspension and steering linkage . ... 10
While working under the car you should also:
• Lubricate the parking brake cables .20
• Check the lubricant level of the:
Standard Transmission . .... . .. .. . . . . . . .. .. .. 14
Rear Axle . ... ... . ....... . .15
• Inspect the:
Brake lines and hoses . . 85
Exhaust system for proper mounting, leaks,
missing or damaged parts ... See Owners Manual
Parking brake linkage
Tires . ..... . . . .. .. 70
Now, moving to the engine compartment:
• Check the fluid level of the:
Energizer (battery) . .. ... . . . .. . . 28
Brake master cylinder .... .. . . .... . .... 18
Powerglide and TorqueDrive transmission ... .. . ... 11
Power steering pump . ... .. . . 16
Radiator. . . . .. . .. . ... .... .. 79
• Inspect the:
Air conditioning refrigerant charge . . . .. . . . . . . . 82
Accessory drive belts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Power steering lines and hoses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
Throttle linkage . . . ..... . . ........ 49
4
• Lubricate body parts ... . .... . 18
• Check and, if necessary, adjust Emission
Control items:
Carburetor idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 50
Solenoid idle speed .. . ... . ... .. . ....... .... . . 50
. Ignition timing .... . .. .. . . . .... . ...... . . ... 50
Every 6,000 Miles
• Rotate the tires ............ ..... ....... . ..... . .... 75
Every 12,000 Miles or 12 Months
(whichever comes first)
• Tune your engine; which includes such items as:
Energizer fluid level check (battery) . .... ... ...... 28
Accessory drive belt tensioning .. . .. . ....... . ..... 29
Distributor cap and rotor inspection . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . 31
Points, inspection and replacement .. . ........ . .. . . 33
Distributor cam lubricator .... ..... . ... . . ... . .. . 37
Condenser, inspection and replacement ... . . ... . ... 36
Spark plug replacement .............. . . . . . ... .. 37
Timing the engine .... . .. . . . ... . ..... .... . .. ... 43
Fuel filter replacement . . . . . . . . ; . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Carburetor adjustments ......... .. . .. . . ... .. . .. 50
Emission canister filter replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 46
• Check the headlamp aim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
• Inspect the brake lines and brake system for leaks . . . . . . . . 85
Every 24,000 Miles
• Repack the front wheel bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
• Replace distributor cam lubricator .. . .... .... . . . . .. ... 37
• Replace the PCV valve* . .......... . ...... .. .. ... .. 45
• Adjust the engine valves .... ............. .. ... . .. . . . 52
• Drain automatic transmission and add fresh
fluid-adjust the low band on the Powerglide and
Torque Drive transmissions . . ........... . . . . . . ... . 11
Every 2 Years
• Drain radiator coolant, flush and refill the system . . ... . . .. 80
Every 36,000 Miles
• Check the manual steering gear for seal leakage . . . . . . . . . . 16
Every 50,000 Miles
• Replace the air cleaner (more often during dusty
driving conditions) ............... ..... .. . . . . . . .. . 48
*or 24 months. (whichever comes first)
5
r.
~ . .
lUBRICATION
/1
ENGINE LUBRICATION
Engine oil should be selected to give the best per-
formance under the climatic and driving conditions in
the territory in which your Vega is driven.
During warm or hot weather, an oil which will pro-
vide adequate lubrication under high operating tem-
peratures is required.
During the colder months of the year, an oil which
will permit easy starting at the lowest atmospheric
temperature likely to be encountered, should be used.
When the engine is drained and refilled, the engine
oil should be selected, not on the basis of the existing
teinperature at the time of the change, but on the lowest
temperature anticipated for the period during which
the oil is to be used.
Unless the engine oil is selected on the basis of vis-
cosity or fluidity at the anticipated temperature, diffi-
culty in starting will be experienced at each sudden
drop in temperature.
SAE Viscosity Oils
SAE Viscosity Numbers indicate only the viscosity or
body of the oil, that is, whether an oil is a light or a
heavy body oil, and do not consider or include other
properties or quality factors.
6
The lower SAE Viscosity Numbers, such as SAE 5W SAE
lOW which represent the light body oils, are recommended for
use during cold weather to provide easy starting and instant lubri-
cation. The higher SAE Viscosity Numbers such as SAE 30 and
SAE 30W, which represent heavier body oils, are recommended
for use during warm or hot weather to provide improved oil econ-
omy and adequate lubrication under high operating temperatures.
Oils are available which are designed to combine the easy start-
ing characteristics of the lower SAE. Viscosity Number with the
warm weather operating characteristics of the higher SAE Vis-
cosity Number. These are termed "multi-viscosity oils," SAE
5W-20, SAE 5W-30, SAE 10W-30, SAE 10W-40, SAE 20W-40.
The following chart will serve as a guide in selecting the proper
oil viscosity. In addition to providing proper lubrication, the cor-
rect viscosity helps assure good cold and hot starting by reducing
friction and thus · increasing cranking speed.
Please Note:
• SAE 5W-20 oils are not recommended for sustained high speed driving .
• SAE 30 oils may be used at temperatures above 40 degrees F.
RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY NUMBER

I I
I •
.
'_l'_lIlY.t11ri(• • tWIll.- •
-30
r I
-20
I
•
0
I
I
20
1-
I
I I
•
40
I
I I
60
I I
80
-
TEMPERATURE RANGE ANTICIPATE!) BEFORE NEXT OIL CHANGE, OF.

100
Types of Oils- How to Determine the Quality of Oil

You Are Getting
In service, engine oils may form sludge and varnish and, under
some conditions, corrosive acids unless protected against oxidation.
To minimize the formation of these harmful products and to
assure the use of oil best suited for present day operating conditions,
automobile manufacturers have developed a series of sequence.tests
designed to evaluate the ability of any oil to properly lubricate
automobile engines.
Only those oils which are certified by their suppliers as meeting
(a) MS service requirements and (b) car makers tests are of the
quality tQ be used in Chevrolet engines.
7
Checking
and Maintaining the
Oil Level
Warm up the engine, turn off
the ignition and allow a few
minutes so the oil can return to
the crankcase before checking
the level.
The engine oil dipstick is lo-
cated in the left rear corner of 2. Replace it and make sure it
the engine compartment next is seated in the tube.
to the engine. The dipstick is 3. Remove it again and in-
marked "FULL" and "ADD". spect it to see if the oil falls
The oil level should be main- between the two marks.
tained between the two marks,
neither going above the "FULL"
line nor below the "ADD" line.
1. Remove the dipstick from
the tube and wipe it off
with a rag.
4. Add oil only if the level falls

below the "ADD" mark.
One quart will raise the
level from the "ADD" mark
to the "FULL" mark.
5. Replace dipstick firmly.
Engine Oil Change

To ensure continuation of best performance, low maintenance
cost and long engine life, it is necessary to change the crankcase oil
whenever it becomes contaminated with harmful foreign materials.
Under normal driving conditions draining the crankcase and refill-
ing it with fresh oil every 4 months or every 6000 miles (whichever
occurs first) is recommended.
In certain types of service including trailer hauling, extensive
idling, short trip operation at freezing temperatures (engine not
thoroughly warmed-up), the oil change interval should not exceed
2 months or 3,000 miles, (whichever occurs first).
8
Parts Necessary
3 Quarts of the Appropriate Engine Oil (without Filter
Change) (2Yz Quarts Imperial)
4 Quarts of the Appropriate Engine Oil (with Filter
Change) (3IA Quarts Imperial)
1 Oil Filter: AC type "PF-25"
Tools Necessary
% 6 Inch Wrench Funnel
4 Quart Capacity Drain Pan Can Opener
Oil Filter Removal and Installation Tool*
*This tool can be purchased at most auto supply stores at a nominal price.
It is always advisable to drain the crankcase only after the engine

has become thoroughly warmed-up or reached normal operating
temperature.
Caution: Stand clear of and never get beneath the car when it is
supported only by a jack. The jack is designed only for use when
changing wheels. Always use safety stands or blocks beneath the
wheels to support the car if necessary to get underneath.
1. Run the engme until it

reaches operating tempera-
ture, then shut it off.
2. Place the drain pan under
the engine oil pan.
3. Remove the engine drain
plug with a 716 inch wrench.
4. Allow the engine oil to
drain thoroughly into the
drain pan.
5. Replace and tighten the
drain plug.
6. If you are replacing the oil
filter:
a. Attach the oil filter can
removal and installation
tool and turn counter-
clockwise to remove the
filter.
b. Replace with a new AC
type "PF-25" filter and
tighten securely by hand.
9
7. Fill engine with oil through 10. Start engine and run for a
filler hole in valve cover, few seconds. While the en-
three quarts for oil change gine is running check the
only or four quarts if the oil filter to make sure it is
oil filter has been changed. not leaking.
8. Check the oil level to make 11. Turn off engine.
sure it is full but not over- 12. Check again to be sure the
filled. oil level falls between the
9. Add more oil if necessary. two marks on the dipstick.
FRONT SUSPENSION
LUBRICATION
Parts Necessary
EP Chassis Lubricant
This lubricant must meet GM Specification GM 6031 M. It is avail·
able from your local Chevrolet Dealer. Ask for part number 1051195.
Tools Necessary
1 Grease Gun*
Some Old Rags
*A hand grease gun can be purchased at many auto supply or de-
partment stores.
Please Note: Ball joints should not be lubricated unless their temp-
erature is 10°F. or higher.
1. Apply chassis lubricant tings on the linkage.

with the grease gun to the Apply until the lubricant
steering linkage grease fit- is seen oozing from around
tings. the rubber seals. Wipe off
There are seven grease fit- excess.
10
2. Apply chassis lubricant to
the control arm ball joint
grease fittings until the
lubricant is seen oozing
from around the rubber
seals. There are four con-
trol arm ·grease fittings.
3. Rub the same lubricant on guide located between the

the steering stops and also body floor pan and the
on the parking brake cable drive shaft.
POWERGLIDE AND TORQUE

DRIVE LUBRICATION
Checking and Maintaining the Lubricant Level
Transmission at Operating Temperature (180°F.)
For the most accurate fluid level check, drive the car several
miles making frequent starts and stops, to bring the transmission
up to normal operating temperature.
Park the car on a level surface, carefully place selector lever in
PARK, apply the parking brake firmly and leave the engine run-
ning at normal idle.
11
scribed, when the transmis- mark on the dipstick to
sion reaches normal oper- allow for expansion of the
ating temperature, the fluid fluid which occurs as the
level will appear at the transmission temperature
"FULL" mark. rises to its normal operating
The fluid level is set at point of 180 degrees.
1AI inch below the "ADD" DO NOT OVERFILL
Changing the Automatic Transmission Fluid
Parts Necessary
11/2 Quarts General Motors DEXRON® Automatic Trans-.
mission Fluid (1 % Quarts Imperial).
Tools Necessary
'Vs Inch Wrench Funnel
2-Quart Capacity Drain Pan Can Opener
1. Run the engine for a min-

ute or two in neutral prior
to changing.
2. Be sure vehicle is level or
on a slight rise from the
rear only.
3. Place the drain pan under
the drain plug.
4. Remove the drain plug with
a % inch wrench.
5. Allow the fluid to drain
thoroughly into pan.
6. Tightly replace drain plug. the transmission through all
7. To refill the transmission ranges.
remove the dipstick from its 9. Since the fluid is still rela-
tube and refill through that tively cool, a level just
tube using 1Yz quarts (11A1 below the "ADD" mark
quarts Imperial) of General should be sufficient as men-
Motors DEXRON@ Auto- tioned previously in Trans-
matic Transmission Fluid. mission at Room Tem-
8. Start the engine and shift perature.
13
Powerglide and
Torque Drive Low and Torque Drive low band.
Band Adjustment This adjustment requires a
At the first transmission fluid special torque wrench which is
change 1 have your Chevrolet unlikely to be found in the
Dealer adjust the Powerglide home.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
LUBRICATION (3 and 4 Speed)
The lubricant in the manual transmission does not require chang-
ing.However, the level should be checked every time you have the
engine oil changed.
Parts Necessary (if addition is required)

SAE 80 GL-5 Gear Lubricant
This lubricant must meet the American Petroleum Institute's
specification GL-5 (API-GL-5)
Tools Necessary
9j,6 Inch Wrench (to Inspect and lor Add Lubricant)
Turkey Baster (Use For Manual Transmission and Rear
Axle Lube Only).
3 Feet of %2 Inch (ID) Rubber Tubing (for Adding
Lubricant.)
Inspection
1. Remove the filler plug nut
on the side of the trans-
mission housing with a
%6 inch open end wrench.
2a. If the transmission is at
operating temperature the
fluid should be level with
the bottom of the filler
plug hole.
2b. If the transmission is not
at operating temperature Lubricant Addition
the fluid level should be 1. Remove the filler plug with
liz inch below the bottom the %6 inch wrench.
of the filler plug hole. 2. Draw fresh lubricant into
14
the turkey baster and tube. the bulb to force fluid into
3. Holding the baster nose the transmission until it be-
down, place the tube in the gins to run out the hole.
filler plug hole and squeeze 4. Reinstall the filler plug.
REAR AXLE LUBRICATION

The lubricant in the rear axle does not require changing. How-
ever, the level should be checked every time you have the engine
oil changed.
Parts Necessary (if addition is required)

Standard Axle
SAE 80 or 90 "Multi-Purpose" Gear Lubricant.
This lubricant must meet the American Petroleum Institute's
specification GL -5 (API-GL-5).
Positraction Axles
This axle requires a special positraction lubricant which
can be purchased at your local Chevrolet dealership. Ask
for Part No. 1051022.
Tools Necessary
9/'6Inch Open End Wrench (to Inspect and/or Add
Lubricant)
Turkey Baster (Use For Manual Transmission and Rear
Axle Lube Only).
3 Feet of %2 Inch (ID) Rubber Tubing
Inspection
1. Remove the filler plug on
the side of the housing
with the %6 inch open end
wrench.
2a. If the axle is at operating
temperature the fluid
should be level with the
bottom of the filler plug
hole.
2b. If the axle is cold the fluid
15
level should be ~ inch the turkey baster and tube.
below the bottom of the 3. Holding the baster nose
filler plug hole. down, place the tube in the
filler plug hole and squeeze
Lubricant Addition the bulb to force fluid into
1. Remove the filler plug with the axle until it begins to
the %6 inch wrench. run out the hole.
2. Draw fresh lubricant into 4. Reinstall the filler plug.
MANUAL STEERING INSPECTION

The manual steering gear is
factory filled with lubricant. No
lubrication is required for the
life of the steering gear.
Every 36,000 miles the steer-
ing gear should be inspected for
seal leakage. If it is leaking
actual solid grease should ap-
pear-not just an oily film. If
solid grease does leak from the
gear see your authorized Chev-
rolet dealer.
POWER STEERING
The most common cause of noise and poor power assist from the
power steering system is the lack of proper belt tension.
With the engine turned off, check the belt driving the power
steering pump, which is located at the left front of the engine com-
partment. (Belt tension checking procedure may be found in the
Tune Up Section, see the index).
Parts Necessary
GM Power Steering Fluid
This may be obtained from your Chevrolet dealer. ask for Part No.
1050017.
Tools Necessary
None
16
Inspection
1. Open the hood. The power
steering pump is located at
the left front of the engine
compartment.
2. Remove the filler cap. The

power steering pump dip-
stick is attached to it.
3. If the fluid is not at operat-

ing temperature, it will
register low on the stick. If
it is at operating tempera- Fluid Addition
ture, it should register high. L Remove cap.
However, the fluid level 2. Inspect.
should not be allowed to 3. Add fluid as necessary to
fall below the end of the meet requirements of step 3
dipstick. of inspection.
Hose Inspection
The power steering hoses run from the pump to the steering gear.
They carry very high pressure power steering fluid.
The hoses should be inspected for:
1. Fluid leakage at all fittings.
2. Bends causing hose restriction.
3. Interference with parts of the vehicle which could cause chafing.
If any such problems exist, they should be brought to the atten-
tion of your authorized Chevrolet dealer.
17
BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
The brake master cylinder is mounted on the left side of the fire
wall. It contains the brake fluid used in all the brake lines. The fluid
in the master cylinder should be checked each time your engine
oil is changed.
Parts Necessary
Hydraulic Brake Fluid
Use Delco Hydraulic Brake Fluid Supreme No. 11 or equivalent.
Tools Necessary
Screwdriver
1. Take care to prevent for- retaining wire off the cover.

eign matter entering the Remove the cover.
master cylinder while cover 3. Add brake fluid until the
is removed. level is within l,4 inch of
2. Use screwdriver to snap the the top.
4. Replace the cover and snap the retainer back into place.
BODY PART LUBRICATION
The mechanical parts of the body with contacting surfaces that
have relative motion with other parts should be lubricated every
6 months, or if you prefer every other oil change.
Parts Necessary
Lubriplate Grease, Part No. 1050110
Lubriplate Spray,Part No. 1050520
Spray-A-Squeak Silicone Lubricant Part No. 1050018
(for use on weatherstrips).
EP Chassis Grease for the Hand Brake Cable.
Tools Necessary
Old Rags.
1. Remove all dirt and old 2. Spray or wipe the lubricant

lubricant from the surfaces on those surfaces which rub
to be serviced. together.
18
The following should be lubricated:
All hinges and latches: Hood A and B; Doors C, D and E; Rear
Deck Lids, G and H; The Trunk Torque Rods I. Transmission Shift
Linkage J. Door Weather Strips F (only if they squeak) .
19
Hand Brake and Linkage. Clutch Pulley.
WHEEL BEARING LUBRICATION

In order to repack the front wheel bearings, the disc brake cali-
per must be removed. The procedure for disc brake caliper removal
may be found on page 87.
Parts Necessary
Brake:
4 Retaining Pin Clips
4 Retaining Pins
4 Pin Bushing Assemblies
. 2 Wheel Bearing Cotter Pins
Wheel bearing lubricant Part No. 1051195 (a special
lubricant formulated especially for use with disc brakes).
CAUTION: "Long fiber" viscous type lubricants should not
be used.
Tools Necessary
Hammer
Set of Slot Screwdrivers
Pair Adjustable Pliers
1 Inch Box End Wrench
% Inch Nut Driver
2 Inch x 2 Inch Block of ~ Inch Wood
1 Pint of Kerosene
1. Remove the disc caliper

and hang it from the front
suspension never from the
brake lines.
2. Remove the dust cap with a
pair of adjustable pliers.
20
3. Remove the cotter pin from
the end of the spindle and
remove the nut. Discard the
cotter pin.
4. With both hands pull even-

lyon the disc to release the
outer bearing.
5. Remove the disc from the

spindle and clean the spin-
dle.
6. Using a wooden hammer

handle knock out the dust
seal and inner bearing.
21
7. Thoroughly clean the inside
of the disc and the bearings
with kerosene. They should
be completely free of old
lubricant and any foreign
material.
8. Place a small amount of

lubricant in the palm of
your hand. Force the lubri-
cant into the sides of the
bearings, filling them as
much as possible. Grease
should reach the top of the
roller retainer.
9. Replace the inner bearing

and install the dust seal
with light taps from the
hammer.
10. Replace the disc on the
spindle.
11. Insert the outer bearing and

washer.
22
12. Tighten the nut while ro-
tating the disc assembly.
This is the most critical part
of adjusting the front wheel
bearings. If they are too
loose, it will result in a lack
of steering stability causing
wheel wander, shimmy and
excessive tire wear. If it's
too tight, bearings may over
heat and prematurely fail.
13. While rotating the disc,
tighten the spindle nut until
the force necessary to rotate
the disc increases slightly.
This seats the bearing. If
you have a torque wrench,
this would amount to 12 ft.
lbs. of torque.
14. Back off the adjusting nut
to the nearest hole and in-
sert a new cotter pin. Bend
ends of cotter pin in oppo-
site directions around the
nut. At this point, the nut
should be finger tight on the
spindle.
This should give zero
preloadoand .001" to .OOSH
end movement.
15. Replace the dust cap using
a hammer and a screw-
driver, tapping around the
circumference of the cap.
16. Make absolutely sure no
grease or foreign material
comes in contact with the
disc. If grease has contami-
nated the disc face, it must
be thoroughly cleaned.
17. Reinstall the brake caliper
as outlined in the Brake
Section.
23
TUNE-UP
An engine tune-up is very important to the modern
automotive engine with its vastly improved power and
performance. Improved electrical systems, and ad-
vances in air pollution control, make today's engines
more sensitive, and have a decided effect on power,
performance and fuel consumption.
It is seldom advisable to attempt a tune-up by cor-
rection of one or two items only. Time will normally
be saved and more lasting results assured if you will
follow a more definite and thorough procedure of an-
alysis and correction of all items affecting power, per-
formance and economy.
The tune-up as outlined in this section is performed
in a logical sequence which includes inspection, replace-
ment and adjustment.
All tune-up specifications should be strictly adhered
to, to assure the proper performance of the engine and
pollution control devices. The engine is designed to run
with these pollution devices. Any alterations of these
devices or the tune-up specifications will substantially
impair the engine's operation.
24
Parts Necessary
On inspection, some of the following items may prove to be in
satisfactory condition. However, they will be listed for refer-
ence.
1 Set of Distributor Contact Points
1 Condenser
1 Distributor Cam Lubricator @ 24,000 Mile Intervals
4 Spark Plugs: AC Type R42TS
1 Fuel Evaporation Canister Filter
1 PCV Valve: AC Type CV-758c
1 Fuel Filter
a. One-Barrel Carburetor-paper element: AC Type GF-427
b. Two-Barrel Carburetor-bronze element.
1 Valve Cover Gasket (every 24,000 miles)
1 Air Cleaner (every 50,000 miles, more often under severe
operating conditions): AC Type A-375c
Tools Necessary
Please Note:
In order to tune an engine properly, special tools are required.
The tools used on your Vega can also be used on other cars.
If you plan on tuning your Vega, purchases of such equipment
will be a good investment.
Dwell Meter or Combination Dwell Tach.
Tachometer or Combination Dwell Tach.
Timing Light 1 Inch Wrench
Spark Plug Gapping Tool Medium Size Slot Screwdriver
Set of Flat Feeler Gauges Large Size Slot Screwdriver
'Ys Inch Deep Socket Point File
% Inch Socket Vs Inch Allen Wrench
Ratchet Handle Pair of Pliers
'/.i Inch Wrench Wire Brush
¥s Inch Wrench Piece of Chalk
Yz Inch Wrench 1 Pint Kerosene
Please Note:
When working in the engine compartment place transmission
in neutral (Manual Trans.) or Park (Auto. Trans.) and firmly
apply the parking brake. Always remove the ground (-)
terminal from the Energizer (battery).
Engine Exhaust Gas Caution: Avoid inhaling exhaust gases

because they contain carbon monoxide. which by itself is colorless and
odorless. Carbon monoxide is a dangerous gas that can cause uncon-
sciousness and is potentially lethal. Do not run engine in an enclosed area.
25
12
1. Air Cleaner
2. Cam Belt Cover
3. Cylinder Head
4. Distributor
5. Spark Plug Wire
6. Spark Plug Boot
7. Temperature Switch
8. Starter
9. Cylinder Block
10. Oil Pan
11. Fan
12. Belt
26
1
1. Air Cleaner
2. Valve Cover
3. Oil Filler Plug
4. PCV Valve
5. Oil Filter
6. De1cotron
7. Oil Dip Stick
27
ENERGIZER (BATTERY)
MAINTENANCE
Level Indicator
The Energizer features an proper level, the lower tip of the
electrolyte level indicator, rod is immersed, and the ex-
which is a specially designed posed top of the rod will appear
vent plug with a transparent rod very dark; when the level falls
extending through the center. below the tip of the rod, the top
When the electrolyte is at the will appear to glow.
o INDICATOR
The indicator reveals at a tom of the vent well features a

glance if water is needed, with- split vent which will cause the
out the necessity of removing surface of the electrolyte to ap-
the vent plugs. pear distorted when .it makes
The level indicator is used in contact. The electrolyte level is
only one cell (second cell cap correct when the distortion first
from positive Energizer termi- appears at the bottom of the
nal) because when the electro- split vent.
lyte level is low in this one cell,
it is normally low in .all cells.
Thus, when the indicator shows
water is needed, check the level
in all six cells.
An alternate method of
checking the electrolyte level is TOO OK
to remove the vent plug and vis- LOW
ually observe the electrolyte
level in the vent well. The bot-
28
Electrolyte Level OVERFILL because this will
The electrolyte level in the cause loss of electrolyte result-
Energizer should be checked ing in poor performance, short
regularly. In hot weather, par- life, and excessive corrosion.
ticularly during trip driving, Caution:
checking should be more fre- During service only water should be
quent because of more rapid added to the Energizer. not electrolyte.
loss of water. If the electrolyte The liquid level in the cells
level is found to be low; then, should never be allowed to drop
colorless, odorless, drinking below the top of the plates, as
water should be added to each the portion of the plates ex-
cell until the liquid level rises to posed to air may be permanently
the split vent located in the bot- damaged with a resulting loss
tom of the vent well. DO NOT in performance.
Water Usage
Excessive usage of water indicates the Energizer is being over-
charged. The most common causes of overcharging are too high
a voltage regulator setting and poor regulator ground wire connec-
tion. Normal Energizer water usage is appoximately one to two
ounces per month.
Condition of the Energizer
The external condition of the Energizer should be checked peri-
odically for damage such as cracked cover, case and vent plugs or
for the presence of dirt and corrosion. The Energizer should be
kept clean.
Energizer Carrier and Hold Down
The Energizer carrier and hold-down should be clean and free
from corrosion before installing the battery. The carrier should be
in a sound mechanical condition so that it will support the Energizer
securely and keep it level.
To prevent the Energizer from shaking in its carrier, the hold-
down bolts should be tight. However, the bolts should not be tight-
ened to the point where the Energizer case or cover will be placed
under a severe strain.
BELT CONDITION AND TENSIONING

With the engine turned off, tension. Belts which are in poor
inspect the accessory drive belts condition should be replaced
for wear, fraying, cracking, and immediately.
29
Check belt tension by apply-
ing moderate thumb pressure
midway between the pulleys. If
the center to center distance be-
tween pulleys is 13 to 16 inches,
the belt should deflect 1/2 inch.
If the center distance is 10 to 13
inches, the belt should deflect
¥s inch. If the distance is 7 to
10 inches, the belt should de-
flect 1;4 inch. Loose belts should
be retensioned to give correct
deflection.
The De1cotron is mounted on
either the left side of the engine
(standard steering) or the right
side (power steering).
Standard Steering
1. Place the large screwdriver
under the De1cotron and
through the hole in the
mounting bracket.
2. Loosen the adjusting nut
with the 1/2 inch wrench.
3. Pull on the screwdriver until
the deflection is ¥s of an
inch and tighten the adjust-
ing nut.
Power Steering
1. Place the large screwdriver
between the mounting
bracket and the De1cotron.
2. Loosen the adjusting nut
with the Vz inch wrench.
3. Using the screwdriver as a
lever, move the De1cotron
until the deflection is Vz an
inch, and tighten the adjust-
ing nut.
30
DISTRIBUTOR
MAINTENANCE
Distributor Cap
1. Using a slotted screwdriver,
remove the distributor cap.
2. The cap should be wiped off
both inside and outside with
a clean cloth and visually
inspected for chips, cracks
and carbonized paths which
would allow high voltage
leakage to ground. If the
cap is defective it will re-
quire replacement.
Distributor Rotor
1. Remove the rotor by pull-
ing it off the shaft.
2. The rotor should be wiped
off with a clean cloth and
visually inspected for chips,
cracks and carbonized paths
which would allow high
voltage leak to ground.
3. The metal rotor tip should
be examined for excessive
burning. If the rotor is bad-
ly corroded, scrape it clean.
4. Check the spring on the top
of the rotor for sufficient
tension to ensure good con-
tact with the carbon button
located in the center of the
distributor cap.
S. Rotor replacement may be
necessary as indicated by
the above checks.
31
5
1. Point Set
2. Point Set Retaining Screw
3. Point Gap Adjusting Notch
4. Condenser Retaining Screw
5. Condenser
6. Distributor Cam Lubricator
7. Distributor Cam
8. Rubbing Block
9. Primary and Condenser
Lead Clip
32
Contact Point Inspection
Under most normal ·operating conditions, distributor contact
points will provide many thousands of miles of service. Points which
have undergone several thousand miles of operation will have a
rough surface or slight transfer of material, but this should not be
interpreted as meaning that points are wQrn out. Rough contacts
which are "greyish" in color often have a greater area of contact
than new contacts, and should continue to provide satisfactory
service.
Pitted or transferred contacts, therefore, are normal conditions
and should not necessarily be replaced unless the transfer has ex-
ceeded .020 of an inch.
1. Burned contact points should be replaced:
• If the tungsten is worn off.
• If the transfer is greater than .020 of an inch.
• If the points are burned, the cause of burning should be
determined before new points are installed (see 2 below).
2. Most common causes of point burning (low mileage since last
replacement) .
• Presence of oil or other foreign material:
This is easy to detect since the oil produces a smudgy line
under the contact points. A clogged PCV system may permit
crankcase pressure to force oil or vapors up into the dis-
tributor.
• Defective Condenser:
Higher series resistance in the condenser, a loose condenser
mounting or lead connection, or defect within the condenser
will cause the points to arc and bum rapidly. If diagnosis
equipment is not readily available it's easier to simply replace
the condenser when replacing the points.
• Improper point adjustment:
If the contact point opening is too small (dwell angle too
large), the points will be closed a high percentage of the
total operating time, thus average current flow through the
points will be too high causing the points to burn rapidly.
Excessive arcing will also occur between the points causing
low secondary voltage and engine miss.
• High Primary Voltage:
High voltage causes an excessively high current flow through
the contact points which produces sufficient heat to rapidly
burn them. High voltage can result from an improperly ad-
justed or inoperative voltage regulator. The voltage regulator
is a transistor type integrated into the De1cotron. If voltage
33
regulator problems are suspected an electrical check should
De performed. See your authorized Chevrolet dealer.
Contact Point Cleaning
1. Clean the points with a few strokes of a clean, oil-free, fine cut
point file. Do not attempt to remove all roughness or file the
point surfaces smooth; merely remove the scale and dirt. Never
use emery cloth or sandpaper to clean points since the abrasive
particles will adhere to the point surface and cause arcing and
rapid burning.
2. Clean the area of filings .and foreign material. Make sure no
excessive oil or filings are left near the contacts.
Contact Point
.. Replacement
1. Remove the two leads that the contact points (be care-
clip into point set. ful not to drop the screw) .
3. Remove the points.
2. Using a slot screwdriver re-

move the screw retaining
4. Replace with a new set of

points by reversing the
above procedure.
Please Note:
Be sure the new point surfaces are free
of small amounts of oil that may be
present to prevent corrosion. Use a
clean soft ·cloth to clean them.
5. Replace the screw, tighten-
ing it lightly.
34
LATERAL PROPER
MISALIGNMENT LATERAL ALIGNMENT
6. Check the point alignment

and make sure they are ,"
!~ L'
.;: k
IJ,..
, iP
Ii!
~
Ii'
"
<Ii
~
aligned properly. ORRECT
LATERAL MISALIGNMENT BY
BENDING FIXED CONTACT SUPPORT
~ BEND BREAKER LEVER
7. Place the % inch socket bing block on the point arm

wrench on the crankshaft (to make turning the engine
drive pulley nut and rotate easier, remove the spark
the engine clockwise until a plugs with a % inch deep
lobe on the distributor cam socket).
is directly opposite the rub-
8. Adjustthe point gap to .019

of an inch for new points
or .016 of an inch for used
points. Make sure that your
feeler gauge is clean and
free of dirt and oil. Tighten
the retaining screw.
Recheck the point open-
ing. Points set too close may
tend to burn and pit rapidly.
Points with excessive sepa-
ration tend to cause a weak
spark at high speeds caus-
ing the engine to miss.
35
9. After checking and adjust-
ing the contact point open-
ing to specifications, the
cam angle or dwell should
be checked with a dwell
meter if such equipment is
available. The point dwell
angle for the Vega should
be 31 to 34 degrees. If the
dwell angle is less than the
specified minimum, check
for defective or misaligned
contact points or worn dis-
tributor cam lobes. The
variation in cam angle read-
ings between idle speed and
1750 engine rpm should
not exceed three degrees.
Excessive variation in this
speed range indicates wear
in the distributor.
1. If you decide a new con-

Please Note: denser is necessary, remove
Cam angle readings when at speeds the old one by removing the
cf11OV'e 1750 engine rpm may prove
unreliaMe for some dwell meters. retaining screw.
Condenser Replacement
Contact point pitting results
from a slight out-of-balance
condition in the ignition system
which causes transfers of tung-
sten from one point to the other
so that a tip builds up on one
point while a pit forms in the
other.
If the points show severe pit-
ting or transfer of material,
(over .020 of an inch as pre- 2. Replace the old condenser
viously mentioned) the con- with a new one and secure
denser should be replaced. it to the breaker plate.
36
3. The leads from the distribu- sure it is seated in its locat~
tor and the condenser go ing groove.
back to back and snap into 2. Reinstall the cap and tighten
the point set behind the the hold down screws.
spring.
Both leads should straddle SPARK PLUGS
the stud and the spring should Removal of Spark Plugs
press up against them, with the
1. Remove the spark plug wire
stud protruding through the
by pulling on the boot, not
hole. on the wire itself. Pulling on
the wire will cause the car-

bon center to separate, thus
Distributor Cam damaging the wire. The
Lubricator spark plug wires are of a
Rotate the distributor cam special resistance type, more
lubricator 180 degrees follow- easily damaged than the old
ing its first 12,000 miles of copper core wire. For this
operation. At 24,000 m.ile inter- reason, the spark plug wires
vals it should be replaced. are removed by pulling on
1. To remove the lubricator, the spark plug boot only.
simply pull it from the re- If the wire is stretched, the
taining stud. core may be broken with no
2. Slip the new lubricator over evidence of damage on the
the retaining stud. After a outer insulation. The termi-
few minutes, it will return nal may also pull off the
to its original cylindrical wire. If the core is broken,
shape. it will cause the engine to
miss. In the case of wire
Distributor Reassembly damage, it is necessary to
Reverse the procedure for replace the complete wire
reassem.bling the distributor. assembly because a satisfac-
1. Reinstall the rotor making tory repair cannot be made.
37
2. Wipe ignition wires with electrode, or the electrodes
cloth moistened with kero- are burned or worn, the
sene and wipe dry. Care- spark plug should be dis-
fully bend the wires to carded. Spark plugs which
check for brittle, cracked, or are in good condition ex-
loose insulation. Defective cept for carbon or oxide de-
insulation will permit mis- posits should be thoroughly
sing or cross-firing of en- cleaned and adjusted.
gine, therefore defective
wires should be replaced. What Spark Plugs Can
3. If the wires are in good con- Tell You About An
Engine
dition, clean any terminals
that are corroded and re-
place any terminals that are
broken or distorted. Re-
place any broken or de-
teriorated cable nipples or
spark plug boots.
4. Remove the spark plugs
using a %" deep socket
wrench. Use care in this
Under normal operating con-

ditions, spark plugs wear out
due to the destructive action,
under intense heat of sulphur
and lead compounds in the fuel,
operation to avoid cracking and bombardment of the elec-
spark plug insulators. Keep tric spark on the electrodes.
the plugs in order so you It is reasonable to expect
know what cylinders they 12,000 miles of useful life from
came from. a spark plug which has been
5. Carefully inspect the insu- cleaned and regapped at regular
lator and electrodes of all intervals. However, operating
spark plugs. Replace any conditions are an important
spark plug which has a factor and life expectancy of the
cracked or broken insula- spark plug will vary with the
tor. If the insulator is worn type of service in which the en-
away around the center gine is used.
38
The same type of spark plug used in two different engines of the
same make and model may frequently show wide variation in
appearance. The cause of such differences lies in the condition of
the engine, its piston rings, carburetor setting, kind of fuel used,
and conditions under which the engine is operated.
Spark plugs are frequently blamed for faulty engine operation for
which they are not responsible. Replacement of old spark plugs by
new, may temporarily improve poor engine performance because of
the lessened demand new plugs make on the ignition system. This,
however, cannot permanently cure poor engine performance caused
by worn rings or cylinders, weak coil, worn contact points, faulty
carburetion or other engine ills.
Pictured here are some commonly encountered appearances and
causes of spark plug problems. It is hoped that these pictures will
make it possible to make a correct diagnosis of many types of under-
the-hood troubles by removing and examining used spark plugs.
Normal Operation
accumulate on the insulator are

by-products of combustion and
come from the fuel and lubri-
cating oil, both of which today
generally contain additives.
Most powdery deposits have no
adverse effect on spark plug
operation; however, they may
cause intermittent missing under
severe operating conditions, es-
Brown to grayish-tan de- pecially at high speeds and
posits and slight electrode wear heavy loads.
indicate correct spark plug heat
range and mixed periods of high
and low speed driving. Spark
plugs having this appearance
may be cleaned, regapped and
reinstalled.
Deposit Fouling-"A"
Red, brown, yellow and
white colored coatings which
39
If the insulator is not too glazed deposits, so when they
heavily coated, the spark- plugs occur the plug should be re-
may be cleaned, regapped and placed.
reinstalled.
Sometimes, even after clean-
ing, an invisible shunt path re-
mains. The only remedy under
such circumstances is to replace
the plugs. Carbon Fouling
Deposit Fouling-'~B"
Most powdery deposits, as
shown in "A", have no adverse
effect on the operation of the
spark plug as long as they re-
main in the powdery state.
However, under certain condi-
tions of operation, these de-
posits melt and form a shiny
yellow glaze coating on the in-
sulator which, when hot, acts
as a good electrical conductor.
This allows the current to fol- Dry, fluffy black carbon de-
low the deposits instead of posits may result from overrich
jumping the gap, thus shorting carburetion, or a faulty auto-
out the spark plug. matic choke. A clogged air
cleaner can restrict air flow to
the carburetor causing rich mix-
tures. Poor ignition output
(faulty breaker points, weak
coil or condenser, worn igni-
tion cables) can reduce voltage
and cause misfiring. Fouled
spark plugs are the result-not
the cause of this problem. After
the cause has been eliminated,
spark plugs having this appear-
Glazed deposits .can be ance can be cleaned, regapped
avoided by not applying sud- and reinstalled.
den load, such as wide open Excessive idling, slow speeds
throttle acceleration, after sus- under light load also can keep
tained periods of low speed and spark plug temperatures so low
idle operation. It is almost im- that normal combustion de-
possible to effectively remove posits are not burned off.
40
Oil Fouling
Wet, oily deposits with a Heat Shock Failure

minor degree of electrode wear
may be caused by oil pumping
past worn rings. "Break-in" of
a new or recently overhauled
engine, before rings are fully
seated, may also result in this
condition. Another possibility
of introduction of oil into the
combustion chamber is exces-
sive valve stem guide clearances.
Usually, these spark plugs
can be degreased, cleaned and
reinstalled. Heat shock is a common
cause of broken and cracked in-
sulator tips. Over-advanced ig-
nition timing and low grade fuel
are usually responsible for heat
shock failures. Rapid increase
in tip temperature under severe
operating conditions causes the
heat shock and fracture results.
Another common cause of
chipped or broken insulator tips
is carelessness in regapping by
either bending the center wire
to adjust the gap, or allowing
the gapping tool to exert pres-
sure against the tip of the center
electrode or insulator when
bending a side electrode to ad-
just the gap.
41
Improper Installation
Dirty threads in an engine
head will result in the plug seiz-
ing before it is actually seated.
This results in poor heat trans-
fer and causes the spark plug to
overheat.
To ensure proper seating of
anew spark plug in the head,
dirty cylinder head threads
should be cleaned with a
greased thread chaser of the
proper size or a wire brush can
be used to clean the threads.
Detonation
Overadvanced ignition tim~
ing, or the use of low octane
fuel will result in detonation
commonly referred to as engine
knock.
This causes severe shock in-
side the combustion chamber
resultjng in damage to adjacent
parts including the spark plugs.
A common result of detonation
is to have the sidewire of a
spark plug torn off.
Insufficient Installation
Torque
Failure to install a spark plug
with sufficient·torque results in
poor contact between the spark
plug and the engine seat.
The lack of proper heat
transfer, resulting from poor
seat contact, causes excessive
overheating of the spark plug
and, in many cases, severe dam-
age as shown.
42
Pre-Ignition
Pre-ignition, causing burned
or blistered insulator tip and
badly eroded electrodes, indi-
cates excessive overheating.
Cooling system stoppages or
sticking valves can also result
in pre-ignition. Excessively lean
fuel-air mixtures are an addi-
tional cause as is sustained high dislodged when the plugs
speed, heavy load service. were removed.
5. Install the spark plug ,
Gapping and Installation screwing it in by hand until
of Spark Plugs it seats.
1. File the center -and side 6. Using a %" deep socket,
electrodes with a small, tighten the spark plug down
clean, fine, cross cut file. firmly (for those having a
2. The plugs should be gapped torque wrench, the specifi-
with a round wire type gauge cation is 15 foot pounds).
to .035 inch. This includes 7. Reinstall spark plug wires.
new spark plugs as well as
old. Bend the side or ground
electrode to meet this speci-
fication.
3. Clean the threads of the
plug and the insulator
thoroughly.
4. Crank the engine several
times to blow-out material
ENGINE TIMING
In order to time the engine accurately, a timing light is required.
Two types of lights are available: One requires a twelve volt power
source, your car battery. This type offers brightest light which
makes reading the timing marks easier. The other is fired by the
ignition spark. This type produces a dim light, however it is the
cheaper of the two. Both types are available at most automotive
supply stores.
Caution:
The secondary circuit of the ignition system which includes the coil. distributor cap,
spark plugs, and spark plug wires, generates up to 40,000 volts when in operation. Use
caution when working on or near these items while the engine is running.
Never let the engine run in an enclosed area.
43
Caution: Keep yourself and all tuneup equipment away from the
fan. belts and pulleys.
1. Disconnect the distributor

vacuum hose.
2. Plug the hose.
3. Connect the timing light
according to the instruc-
tions received with it. If you
have no instructions for
your light, the following
are general instructions for
its attachment.
A. External Source Light:

1. Connect the black paired lead to the negative terminal of the
battery. or to a ground point on the vehicle.
2. Connect the red paired lead to the positive terminal of the
battery.
3. Connect the single lead to the number one terminal on the dis-
tributor. The number one spark plug wire should still be con-
nected to the terminal and the plug. (In most cases a small
attachment will be provided with the light to make complete
connection possible.)
B. High Voltage Source Light:
1. Connect the number one spark plug wire to one lead of the
light and the other lead to the spark plug. The circuit then runs
from the distributor. through the light. to the spark plug. In
other words. the spark voltage fires the light as well as the
spark plug in the engine.
4. Locate the light in a secure still.) Each peak indicates

place so that neither it nor four degrees. The "BE-
its leads will interfere with FORE" means advance and
the fan when the engine is the "0" is the 0 degree ref-
started. erence point.
5. Rub chalk on the timing
mark tab and the timing
notch on the pulley.
6. Start the engine.
7. Point the timing light at the
timing marks. (Keep the
timing light and yourself
out of the way of the fan. It
may appear to be standing
44
8. The specifications for tim-
ing may be found on the
"Vehicle Emission Con-
trol Information" sticker
found in the engine com-
partment.
9. In order to set the correct
timing, loosen the distribu-
tor lock nut and slowly ro-
tate the distributor until the
specified timing is reached
as indicated by the timing
marks.
10. Tighten the distributor lock 12. Reinstall the distributor
nut. vacuum hose.
11. Turn the engine off. 13. Disconnect the timing light.
POSITIVE CRANKCASE
VENTILATION VALVE
Regular replacement of the rcv valve is recomttlendedat 24
month or 24,000 mile intervals as noted by the Maintenance
Schedule.
All engines have "Closed Positive" ventilation systems utilizing
manifold vacuum to draw fumes and contaminating vapors into
the combustion chamber where they are burned. Since it affects
every part of the engine, crankcase ventilation is an important
function and should be understood and serviced properly.
In the "Closed Positive" ventilation system, air is drawn through
the engine crankcase into the manifold (through a regulating
valve), drawing crankcase vapors and fumes with it to be burned.
This ventilation system draws the clean air from the carburetor air
cleaner and has a non-vented oil filler cap.
1. Inspect for deteriorated or

plugged hoses.
2. Inspect all hose connec-
tions.
3. Remove the PCV valve
from the valve cover by
pulling.
45
4. Pinch the valve retaining
clip with a pair of pliers
and remove the valve.
5 Install new valve and re-
<
install in valve cover.
EVAPORATION EMISSION
CANISTER
The emission canister is designed to reduce fuel vapor emission
that normally vents to the atmosphere from the gasoline tank and
carburetor fuel bowl. The filter mounted on ·the bottom of the
canister requires replacement at 12,000 mile intervals.
Filter Replacement
1. Remove the hoses. Pinch
the hose clamps with a pair
of pliers and remove the
hoses from the top of the
emission .canister. The hose
may adhere to the fitting
after the clamp has been
loosened. If this happens,
lightly twist the hose at the
fitting until it can be pulled
off.
2. Loosen the hex head screw

retaining the canister with a
% inch open end wrench.
46
· 3.' Remove the canister.
4. Remove the old filter from

the canister and replace it
with a new one.
5. Reinstall the canister in

your Vega.
6. Connect the hoses to the
proper fittings as marked on
the canister top.
47
CARBURETOR
Air Cleaner Replacement

Your Vega is equipped with
a new type of air cleaner which
requires replacement as a unit
every 50,000 miles under nor-
mal driving conditions. How-
ever, when used in dusty areas
for prolonged periods it may be
necessary to change it sooner.
1. Unscrew the wing nut on
top of the air cleaner.
2. Lift the nose of the air
cleaner up and rotate it
clockwise slightly to aid in
releasing the crankcase vent
pipe from the rear of the
cam cover.
3. Lift the air cleaner straight
up after the crankcase vent
pipe has been released.
4. Save the grommet from the
old air cleaner for use in the
new one.
Choke Linkage Cleaning

If the linkage does not move
freely it will be necessary to
clean it.
1. Clean the linkage with any
common mineral-spirits
cleaning fluid.
2. Clean off all old lubricant
and foreign material.
48
Throttle Linkage
Inspection
The throttle linkage runs • Kinks or bends in the
from the carburetor to the ac- throttle cable that may
celerator pedalin the car. cause restriction.
Inspect the throttle linkage • Free movement of the gas
for: pedal.
• Free operation at the carbu- • Condition of the throttle re-
retor.
Fuel Filter Replacement 5. Reinstall and carefully

1. Using a 1h inch open end tighten the fuel line.
wrench disconnect the fuel 6. Start the engine and check
line at the inlet fuel filter for leaks.
nut.
2. Remove the inlet fuel filter
nut from the carburetor
with a 1 inch wrench. A
spring behind the filter will
push it out.
3. Install the new filter.
4. Reinstall the inlet fuel filter
nut and gasket to complete
replacement.
49
Air Mixture Screws
The carburetor air mixture screw on your Vega is adjusted at
the factory and should not be tampered with. If a carburetor over-
haul becomes necessary, it should be done by your local Chevrolet
dealer who is properly trained and equipped to handle such a repair.
Adjustment Specifications
The table below contains adjustment specifications for your
Vega. The explanation of what they mean and how to use them can
be found further on in this section.
90 H.P. 110 H.P.

Powerglide Powerglide
Manual Torque Drive Manual Torque Drive
Solenoid RPM 850 650' 1200 650'
Carb Speed 550' 550'
700 700
Screw RPM
' Parking brake set firmly, wheels blocked with objects large
enough to prevent their movement. and transmission in gear.
There is a tune-up specification sticker mounted in the engine com-

partment. It may be possible for the sticker specifications to differ from
these mentioned above. If they are different. the specifications have
changed since the last printing of this manual. If they have changed.
follow the Vehicle Emission Control Information sticker specifications.
Adjusting Carburetor hose from the vapor canis-

First of all, the engine should ter.
be at normal operating temper- 2. Disconnect and plug the
ature. vacuum hose leading to the
1. Disconnect the "Fuel Tank" distributor.
3. Check and adjust the igni-
tion timing to meet specifi-
cations. (see Engine Tim-
ing.)
50
Please Note:
Make all adjustments with engine at normal operating temperature. air cleaner on.
choke open and air conditioning on if so equipped.
4. Disconnect the solenoid

electrically.
5. Set the carburetor speed

screw to the specified RPM
which, as you will note, var-
ies with the transmission
used.
6. Reconnect the electrical
connection at the solenoid
and open the throttle for a
moment.
7. Adjust solenoid plunger

using a % inch open end
wrench to the specified
RPM.
8. Reconnect the fuel tank
hose and the distributor
vacuum hose. Be sure to
unplug the vacuum hose.
51
VALVE ' ADJUSTMENT
The mechanical valve tappet assemblies require adjustment at

24,000 mile intervals, This assembly has two parts, a tappet and an
adjustment screw. The valve lash adjustment screw is threaded on
an angle in the tappet.
One side of the screw is ground flat to mate with the valve stem
tip. The valve adjustment is made by turning this screw. Each 360
degree rotation of this screw accounts for an adjustment of .003 of
an inch, THERE IS NO IN-BETWEEN. Because of the design of
the adjuster, the flat portion of the screw must mate with the valve
stem tip. The engine must be Gold when adjusting the valves. When
cranking the engine for tbis adjustment be sure that the transmission
is in neutral (std.) or park (auto) and the parking brake is firmly
applied.
Parts Necessary Tools Necessary

1 Valve Cover Gasket Vs Inch Socket or Nut Driver
Set of Flat Feeler Gauges
Piece of Chalk
lis Inch Allen Wrench
52
1. Use chalk to write the num- % inch socket to turn the nut
ber of each plug' wire on the attaching the belt pulley clock-
metal base below the plas- wise to rotate · the crankshaft
tic distributor cap so that and the engine.
each position can be identi- 5a. When the rotor points to
fied after the cap is re- number one (the points
moved. open), the following
2. Remove the coil wire (the valves can be adjusted:
high tension wire leading Cylinder 1 Exhaust
from the coil to the distribu- , Intake
tor cap). Cylinder 2 Intake
3. Remove the distributor cap. Cylinder 3 Exhaust
4. Crank the engine until the 5b. When the rotor points to
distributor rotor points to the number four terminal
the number one position (points open), the follow-
(marked by the chalk), and ingvalves can be adjusted:
the points are open. Cylinder 2 Exhaust
Cylinder 3 Intake
Cylinder 4 Intake
Exhaust
If cranking the engine to

achieve the correct position
proves difficult, you may use a
53
6. Remove the air cleaner
and valve cover. /
,,--,,
,, "\
7 a. The intake valves are the
I
/ \
,
first, third, fifth and sev-
enth valves from the front
of the engine. The intake
,
I
,
\
manifold also indicates the

position of the intake
valves. These valves call
for a .015 inch lash.
7b. The exhaust valves are the 9. If the gauge is loose be-
second, fourth, sixth and tween the two, remove the
eighth valves from the gauge and turn the adjust-
front of the engine. The ing screw with a 1h inch
exhaust manifold indi- Allen Wrench 360 degrees
cates their position. These clockwise (one full turn).
valves call for .030 inch This will reduce the gap by
lash or gap between the .003 of an inch. Turning
cam lobe and the tappet. the screw counter-clock-
wise one full turn will in-
8. Place a clean feeler gauge crease the gap by .003 of
an inch. (You will be able
between the desired cam
to feel the adjuster index if
lobe and the tappet. you add finger pressure to
the lifter while adjusting.)
Adjust the screw until the
feeler gauge no longer fits
between the cam and the
lifter. Then, back the screw
off one full turn. This will
give you the proper valve
adjustment.
10. Perform this adjustment on
aU valves.
11. Replace valve cover being
The adjustment must be
sure to use a new valve
made when the tappet is ad- cover gasket if the old gas-
jacent to the base circle of ket is damaged.
the cam (where the cam 12. Reinstall distributor cap
face is closest to the center and wire, and the air
of the cam). cleaner.
54
•
LIGHTING
HEADLAMP
Specifications for aiming headlamps are as follows:
In 25 feet of travel the lights should be 0 to 4 inches
from the center line to the right and down. Anywhere
within that range is acceptable. This can be done with-
out the use of a special aiming tool.
55
Headlamp Adjustment
Parts Necessary
None
Tools Necessary
Yardstick or Tape Measure
No.2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
1. Aiming should be done with one-half a tank of gas, with no

extra weight in the trunk besides the tire and jacking equip-
ment.
2. Select a level surface and position the vehicle perpendicular
to a wall or screen twenty-five feet away.
3. Measure the distance between the center of the headlamp and
the ground.
4. Mark the same height on the wall or screen (B).
5. Determine exactly where the center lirie of the vehicle would
be if it were extended to the screen (A).
6. Measure the distance between the two headlamps and recreate
it on the screen (C) .
i
.".
c ---<i
A <i
c ~--:--<i I
25'
',I
56
7. Turn on the low beams.
8. The center of the "hot-spot" of the beam should fall within zero
to four inches below and to the right of the intersection of the
headlamp height line (B) and the headlamp position line (C).
f 9. Adjust the headlamp so the "hot-spot" falls within the specifi-
cations mentioned in step 8. The adjusting screws are accessible
1<'
~, .
without removing the bezel.
A
I
c <i c
I I
<i <i
Headlamp Replacement

Headlamp No. 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
GM Part Number: 5961874 Coat Hanger (hanger wire)
Trade Number: 6014
L, 1. Remove the headlamp

bezel by removing the three
attaching screws.
57
2. Bend a coat hanger into a
hook.
3. With the hook, pull the re-
taining spring to one side
to release the headlamp.
4. On the right headlamp, ro-

tate the headlamp clock-
wise to release it from the
aiming pins. On the left
headlamp rotate it counter-
clockwise.
5. Remove the electrical con-

nector.
6. Remove the metal retain- '-~

ing ring.
7. Install the new lamp in the
retaining ring and install it
in the vehicle by reversing
the previous procedure.
8. Reaim the headlamp (see
page 56).
58
TURN SIGNAL AND
BACK-UP LAMPS
Parts Necessary
Front Turn Signal and Parking Lamp
1 Bulb: GM Part Number: 9428904
Trade Number: 1157 Natural Amber
Tail and Stop Lamp
Trade Number: 1157
Back-up Lamp
Trade Number: 1156
Tools Necessary
No. 2 Phillips Screwdriver
Front Signal Lamp Replacement

If one turn signal bulb is burned out, the turn signal will not flash
on that side. The good bulb will wink rapidly when the turn signal
is in the turn position. Replace the bulb which is not functioning.
1. Remove the turn signal 3. Replace the bulb by push-
lens using the Phillips screwing in and turning c1ock-
driver. wise.
2. Lightly pushing in on the 4. Replace the lens.
bulb, turn it counterclock-
wise and remove.
59
Sedan Rear Turn signal Station Wagon Rear
and Back-up Lamp Turn Signal and Back-up
Replacement Lamp Replacement
1. Open the trunk. 1. Remove the Phillips screws
2. Hold the bulb retainer with from the lens retaining ring.
two fingers and turn coun- 2. Remove lens.
terclockwise. This exposes
the bulb.
3. Remove the bulb by push-

ing in lightly and turning
the bulb counterclockwise.
4. Replace the bulb by push- 3. Lightlypushing in the bulb,
ing in and turning clock- turn counterclockwise and
wise. remove.
5. Replace bulb retainer in 4. Replace bulb by pushing in
housing by turning clock- and turning clockwise.
wise. 5. Replace lens.
SIDE MARKER LAMPS

The side marker lamps are located on the sides of the Vega both
front and rear. They function when the parking lights and head-
lamps are turned on.
60
Parts Necessary
Bulb: GM Part Number: 9421330
Trade Number: 194
Tools Necessary
No.2 Phillips Head Screwdriver (rear only).
Front Side Marker

Lamp Replacement
1. The bulb socket is accessi-
ble from the front wheel
well. Reach around and
turn the bulb socket coun-
ter-clockwise.
2. Remove the bulb by simply
pulling it from the socket.
3. Replace in the same man-
ner.
,,
Rear Side Marker Lamp
Replacement
The front lamps also can be
removed in the same manner
as described below for rear
lamps if desired.
1. Remove the two Phillips
head screws.
61
2. Remove the lamp housing.
3. Remove the bulb carrier
from the housing.
4. Pull on the bulb to remove
it.
5. Replace with a new bulb.
6. Reassemble.
LICENSE PLATE LAMP

Replacement
The license plate lamp is
mounted in the bumper above
the license plate.
clockwise. This will release

the bulb.
Parts Necessary
Bulb: GM Part Number: 142450
Trade Number: 67
Tools Necessary
5. Replace the bulb and re-
No.2 Phillips Head
Screwdriver install the lens and lamp
assembly.
1. Remove the two screws re-

taining the lamp assembly.
2. Remove the lamp.
3. Remove the two screws re-
taining the lens.
4. Push the bulb into the
socket, against spring pres-
sure, and tum counter'-
62
DOME LAMP
Bulb: Screwdriver
GM Part Numbers: 9414045
9422525
Bulb:
Trade Number: 211
211-1
Replacement
1. Place the blade of a screw-
driver between the dome
lamp bezel and lens.
2. With a light prying action
remove the lens.
3. Remove and replace the
bulb.
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER LAMPS

There are two instrument clusters, the standard cluster with
"tell~tale" warning lamps and the GT duster with gauges. On both ,
clusters, the bulbs can be reached from behind the instrument panel.

Illumination bulbs: None
GM Part Number: 9425542
Trade Number: 168
Indicators:
Hi Beam
Direction Signal
Oil Pressure
Parking Brake
Generator
Temperature
Trade Number: 194
63
Replacement
1. Determine whether the bIe by reaching under the
burned out bulb is to the instrument panel just to the
right or left of the steering left of the radio.
column. 5. Find the bulb that is to be
2. Determine whether the replaced.
burned out bulb is an illu- 6. Turn the bulb socket coun-
mination bulb or an indica- terclockwise. This will re-
tor bulb. lease the bulb socket and
3. On the left side of the col- bulb from the cluster.
umn, bulbs are accessible 7. Remove the bulb by pulling
by reaching under the in- it from its socket.
strument panel near the 8. Push a new bulb into the
headlamp switch. socket and reinstall the
4. On the right side of the col- socket into the cluster.
umn, the bulbs are accessi- 9. Test for proper operation.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SHIFT

QUADRANT LAMP
The shift quadrant of the automatic and semi-automatic trans-
mision is illuminated by a bulb and socket similar to those behind
the instrument panel.
Parts Necessary
Trade Number: 194
Tools Necessary
No.2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
Replacement
1. Remove the four Phillips move the socket from the
head screws from the con- assembly.
sole. 4. Pull the bulb straight out
2. Lift the console up the shift of the socket.
lever. 5. Replace with the specified
3. The bulb socket is mounted bulb.
in front of the metal assem- 6. Reinstall the socket in its
bly. Turn in a counter- carrier and test.
clockwise direction to re-
64
TURN SIGNAL FLASHER
If the turn signals operate in one direction and not the other, it
means that a bulb has burned out. If they do not operate in either
direction, it means that two bulbs are burned out, one on either
side, or the flasher unit is defective. The latter is probably the case.
Parts Necessary
Turn Signal Flasher (Two Bulb)
Tools Necessary
None
Replacement
1. The flasher is located under
the left end of the dash, just
behind the instrument
panel.
2. Reach up and pull down on
the flasher. It will release
easily from its spring clip
attachment.
3. Unplug the old flasher from 4. Reinsert the flasher in the
the wire connector and re- spring clip retainer.
place it with a new one.
FOUR-WAY HAZARD FLASHER

Parts Necessary
Hazard Flasher
Tools Necessary
None
Replacement
The four-way hazard flasher is actuated by a switch on the steer-
ing column. If the flasher does not function and the turn signals
still operate, it will be necessary to replace the flasher unit. The
flasher unit is located in one corner of the fuse block.
Please Note: The hazard flasher will not operate with the brake pedal depressed.
65
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
The gauges in the instrument cluster of your Vega can be re-
moved individually from the carrier without removing the carrier
from the vehicle or dropping the steering column.
Parts Necessary
As Required
Tools Necessary
No•.2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
1,4 Inch Nut Driver
Small Slot Screwdriver
Standard Cluster
Removal
1. Disconnect ground cable

(-) from battery.
2. Using the Phillips head

screwdriver, remove the
nine screws from the bezel.
3. Pull the bezel out and re-

move.
66
4. Remove the clock stem set
knob (if so equipped) with
the small screwdriver.
5. Remove the six lens attach-
ing hex headed screws using
the nut driver.
6. Remove the two metal

shield attaching screws us-
ing the nut driver, and re-
move the shield.
67
7. At this point, the speedom-
eter assembly and illumina-
tion bulbs are accessible.
To remove the speedo as-
sembly, remove the two
outside attaching screws
with the nut driver and pull
straight out. The speedom-
eter cable does not have to
be disconnected.
GT Cluster Removal
1. Disconnect gmund cable
(-) from battery.
2. Remove the screws retain-
ing the trim plate.
3. With a small screwdriver
remove the screw in the
clock adjusting knob.
4. Remove the trim plate.
5. Remove the six screws re-

. taining the lens and the rear
of instrument bezeL This
makes all the gauges acces-
sible.
68
6. To remove gauges simply The speedometer cable does
remove attaching hex head not have to be removed in
screws with the nut driver order to remove speedo
and disconnect the wire head.
connector.
FUSES
The fuse block is located be-
neath the dash just above and
to the right of the headlamp
dimmer switch.
If electrical failures occur,
check for blown fuses and re-
),i- place. The fuse amperage and
the electrical circuits it protects
is marked on the fuse block
itself.
If a fuse blows out again,
see your authorized Chevrolet
dealer who is equipped and
trained to locate and eliminate
the cause of such problems.
69
'/
/
..
\ 41RES AND
SHOCKS
TIRES
Every few thousand miles and at each lubrication,
tires should be checked for sharp objects or stones in
the tread.
Tread Wear Indicators
The original equipment tires on your Vega incorpo-
rate built-in tread wear indicators to assist you in de-
termining when tires have been worn to the point of
needing replacement.
These indicators are molded into the bottom of the
tread grooves and will appear as Yz inch wide bands
when the tire tread depth becomes 1f16 of an inch. When
the indicators appear in two or more adjacent grooves,
tire replacement due to tread wear is recommended.
70
Tire Inspection
Misalignment
This is wear due to excessive toe-in or toe-out.
In either case, tires will revolve with a side motion and scrape
the tread rubber off. If misalignment is severe, the rubber will be
scraped from both tires; if slight, only one will be affected.
The scraping action against the face of the tire causes a small
featheredge of rubber to appear on one side of the tread and this
feather edge is certain indication of misalignment. The remedy is
to have the front em! of your Vega aligned.
Side Wear
This may be caused by incorrect wheel camber, under-inflation,
high cambered roads or taking corners at too high a rate of speed.
The first two causes are the most common. Camber wear can be
readily identified because it occurs only on one side of the tread,
whereas under inflation causes wear on both sides.
71
Cornering Wear
Power steering has enabled
drivers to negotiate curves at
higher rates of speed with the
same feeling of security that
they had with standard steering
at lower speeds. Consequently,
curves are being taken at higher
speeds with the result that a type
of tire wear called "Cornering
Wear" frequently appears.
When a car makes an extremely fast turn, the weight is shifted
from normal loading on all four wheels to an abnormal load on the
tires on the outside of the curve and a very light load on the inside
tires due to centrifugal force. This unequal loading may have two
unfavorable results.
First, the rear tire on the inside of the curve may be relieved of
so much load that it is no longer geared to the road and it slips
grinding off the tread on the inside half of the tire at an excessive
rate.
Second, the transfer of weight may also over-load the outside tires
so much that they are laterally distorted resulting in excessive wear
on the outside half. !
Cornering wear can be most easily distinguished from abnormal

camber wear by the rounding of the outside shoulder or edge of
the tire and by the roughening of the tread surface which denotes
abrasion.
Cornering wear often produces a fin or raised portion along the
inside edge of each row in the tread pattern.
In some cases this fin is almost as pronounced as a toe-in fin, and
in others, it tapers into a row of tread blocks to such an extent that
the tire has a definite step wear appearance.
The only remedy for cornering wear is proper driving habits.
72
Center Wear
This is caused primarily by
over inflation of the tire.
Invisible fabric damage can
also be caused by over inflation.
Under inflation causes wear on
both sides.
Uneven Wear
Uneven or spotty wear is due
to such irregularities as unequal
caster or camber,bent front or
rear suspension parts, out-of-
balance wheels, brake drums
out-of-round, brakes out-of-ad-
justment, or other mechanical
conditions. The remedy in each
case consists of locating the me-
chanical defect and correcting
it. Your local Chevrolet dealer
is best equipped to do this.
73
Tire Changing
To change the road wheels using the jack that comes with your
Vega, proceed as follows:
1. Set hand brake firmly and block front wheels if rear wheel is
being changed.
2. Remove hub cap and break wheel mounting nuts loose.
3. Set lever on jack to the UP

position. Properly· position
the load rest, which en-
gages bumper, by moving
base of jack slightly under
the car and engage tang of
bracket in bumper notch,
then bring the jack back
toward an upright position
before jacking. Raise vehi-
cle until the wheel clears the
ground.
4. Remove wheel mounting
nuts and remove wheel
from hub or drum.
5. To replace road wheel, re-
verse the above instruc-
tions. Proper torque on nuts
(for those who have access
to a torque wrench) is 55-
75ft. lbs. torque.
74
Caution:
Stand clear of and never get beneath the car when it is supported only
by a jack. The jack is designed only for use when changing wheels.
Always use safety stands or blocks beneath the wheels to support the
car if necessary to get underneath. On cars equipped with POSITRAC-
TION DIFFERENTIAL, do not run the engine with one drive wheel off
the ground since the car may drive through the wheel remaining on the
ground. .
Tire Rotation
To minimize the possibility of tire noise and to equalize tire wear,
it is recommended that tires be interchanged every 6,000 miles or
more frequently in case of extremely heavy wear.
Interchanging tires will effectively prevent undue wear on any
particular tire. If tire interchanging is followed as recommended
above, all tires will have the same number of miles in each wheel
position at the end of the fourth change. When interchanging tires,
inspect for signs of abnormal wear, bulging, etc. Stones, glass, and
nails should be removed before reinstallation. Also, tire pressure
must be adjusted (Front and Rear) in accordance with recommen-
dations on the tire inflation placard on the door.
The five wheel rotation can be performed using the jack that
comes with the car. The four wheel rotation requires all four wheels
to be off the ground at one time.
III III 111111 111111
III
1I I1 ,IIIIIIJ
IXI
111111 111111
--
5 WHEELS .4 WHEELS
75
SHOCK ABSORBERS
The shock absorbers prevent your Vega from bouncing con-
tinually after you have hit a bump. To check each shock absorber,
simply push down on one corner of the car and release. If it bounces
up and down more than once the chances are the shock absorber is
bad. To further check, examine the shock for leakage. If they are
leaking and/ or if they do not appear to dampen bouncing, they
should be replaced.

Shock Absorbers ~ Inch Wrench
(where necessary) ~.Inch Wrench
%6 Inch Wrench
76
Front Shock
Replacement
1. Remove the shock tower

cap in the engine compart-
ment to allow light to shine
down on the retaining nuts.
2. Turn the steering wheel

hard right for working on
the left shock and hard left
for the right shock.
3. From within the wheel well,
hold the shock rod with the
%" wrench while loosen-
ing the fastening nut with
the %6" wrench. Remove
the nut.
4. From under the front sus-

pension control arm remove
the two Vz" cap screws se-
curing the lower part of the
shock to the control arm.
5. Remove the shock.

6. Install the new shock by
reversing the above pro-
cedure.
11
77
I
Ji.
Rear Shock Replacement
Caution: The rear axle should

be supported during removal of the
shock absorbers to prevent stretch-
ing of the brake hose.
1. Hold the rear shock with

one hand and remove the
nut retaining the lower por-
tion of the shock to the axle.
2. With a Vz" wrench, reach

up and disconnect the two
nuts securing the top of the
shock to the body underpan.
3. To install, fasten the top of
the new shock to the body
pan.
4. Extend the lower portion of
the shock to the axle fasten-
ing location and tighten nut.
78
ENGINECOOLING
AND
AIR CONDITIONING
COOLING SYSTEM
Cooling System Inspection
1. Inspect the cooling system for leaks, weak hoses,
loose hose clamps and correct coolant level.
79
Caution: When an engine is at normal operating temperature or
above. the internal pressure that builds up in the cooling system
will blowout scalding fluid and vapors if the radiator cap is suddenly
removed. To prevent loss of coolant and to avoid the danger of being
burned. the coolant level should be checked or coolant added only
when the engine is cool. To remove the cap when engine is cool.
slowly rotate cap counterclockwise to the detent or when it stops
itself (DO NOT PRESS DOWN WHILE ROTATING). Wait until any residual
pressure is relieved. as indicated by a hissing sound. then press down
on the cap while continuing to rotate counterclockwise. Radiator pres-
sure caps should be checked by a qualified technician periodically for
proper operation and replaced as required with the applicable AC type.
Cooling System Inspection

Regardless of whether freezing temperatures are or are not ex-
pected, cooling system protection should be maintained at least to
o degrees F. to provide adequate corrosion protection. Your Chev-
rolet Dealer or local service station can quickly check the anti-freeze
content of your radiator. When coolant additions are required be-
cause of coolant loss or to provide additional protection against
freezing at temperatures lower than -20 °F., (-32 °F. in Canada)
a sufficient amount of an ethylene glycol base coolant meeting GM
Specification 1899-M should be used. Such anti-freeze can be pur-
chased from your local Chevrolet Dealer.
Cooling System Flushing

Every two years the cooling system should be serviced by flushing
with plain water, then completely refilled with a fresh solution of
water and a high-quality, inhibited (permanent-type) glycol base
coolant meeting GM Specification 1899-M (GM part number
1050027) and providing freezing and corrosion protection at least
to 0 degrees F. In addition, Cooling System Inhibitor and Sealer
should be added then and every fall thereafter. GM Cooling System
Inhibitor retards the formation of rust or scale and is compatible
with aluminum components. .
Parts Necessary
GM Anti-freeze Part NUlllber: 1050027 (Canada 5791952).
Tools Necessary
A Garden Hose or Large Pan and Funnel
80
1. Drain . the coolant through
the radiator drain valve (see
the caution note on the pre-
vious page).
2. Close the valve and add a
sufficient amount of plain
water to fill the system.
3. Run the engine until the
normal operating tempera-
ture is reached.
4. Drain and refill the system, glycol base coolant meeting
as described in steps 1, 2, GM Specification 1899-M
and 3, a sufficient number to provide the required
of times until the drained freezing and corrosion pro-
liquid is colorless. tection.
5. Allow the system to drain 7. Run the engine until normal
completely and then close operating temperature is
the radiator drain valve reached.
tightly. 8. Check and adjust level of
6. Add the necessary amount coolant after the system has
of high quality inhibited cooled sufficiently.
AIR CONDITIONING
Inspection
1. Inspect the condenser, mounted in front of the engine radiator,
to be sure that the fins are not plugged with leaves or other
foreign material. If it is plugged this will limit the system's cool-
ing capacity considerably. From the engine side of the radiator
remove large debris by hand and flush remaining dirt from the
condenser using a garden hose.
2. Check the evaporator drain tube for dirt or restrictions, clean
it if necessary.
3. Check the compressor belt tension. Adjust if necessary. (The
belt tension check procedure may be found on page 29 of this
manual.)
4. Check for an indication of an oil leak from the compressor (a
slight moistening of oil at the front of the compressor is con-
sidered normal). If there is a major leakage, do not operate the
system or serious compressor damage will result. See your au-
thorized Chevrolet Dealer as soon as possible.
5. Check for proper refrigerant charge. The following procedure
explains how.
81
Refrigerant Quick-Check Procedure
The following procedure can be used to quickly determine
whether or not the air conditioning has a proper charge of refrig-
erant.
1. Place the transmission in

neutral (manual), or Park
(Auto) and firmly set the
parking brake. Block the
front wheels with a suitable
size object to prevent wheel
movement. Start engine and
place on fast idle.
2. Set controls for maximum
cold with blower on high.
3. Remove the cover from the
air conditioning sight glass
mounted on the receiver de-
hydrator in the engine com-
partment and observe the
sight glass.
a. Bubbles present in sight
glass. This means that the
system is low on charge. If
this is the case see your
Chevrolet Dealer for fur-
ther inspection and recharg-
ing.
b. Sight glass clear, no bub-
bles. This indicates that the
system is either fully
charged or empty. Feel the
high and lower pressure
hoses at the compressor.
One should be warm and
the other cold.
82
1). IF THERE IS NO AP- a). If the refrigerant in the
PRECIABLE TEMPER- sight glass remains clear
ATURE DIFFERENCE, for more than 45 sec-
it indicates that the sys- onds (before foaming
tem is empty of refriger- and settling away from
ant. For leak detection the sight glass) an over-
and system charging see charge is possible (see
your authorized Chevro- your Chevrolet Dealer).
let Dealer as soon as pos- b). If the refrigerant foams
sible. If empty there is a and then settles away
chance that water vapor from the sight glass in
has entered the system. less than 45 seconds, it
Water vapor and air are can be assumed that
two prime contaminants there is a proper charge
which can damage the of refrigerant in the sys-
system if left too long. tem.
2). IF THERE IS A NOT-
ABLE TEMPERA-
TURE DIFFERENCE,
there exists the possibility
of a refrigerant over-
charge (an overfilled sys-
tem will result in poor
cooling during low speed
operation). Disconnect
the compressor clutch
connector while observ-
ing the sight glass.
83
BRAKES AND
CLUTCH
BRAKES damage or excessive bend-

ing.
Brake Line Inspection
Inspect the flexible hoses for:
The brake lines are routed
1. Brake fluid leakage.
from the main brake cylinder in
2. Bend in the hose that may
the engine compartment to the
cause a restriction.
front and rear wheel brake cyl-
3. Friction wear.
inders. They consist of metal
4. Cuts or cracks.
tubing protected by coiled wire
5. Bulges when the brake is
and flexible couplings at the
applied heavily.
front wheels and rear axle.
Inspect the metal lines for: Inspect couplings for brake
1. Brake fluid leakage. fluid leakage.
2. Cracking. If any abnormalities are
3. Friction wear. found take your Vega to your
4. Restrictions due to stone local Chevrolet dealer.
84
-.
Parking Brake juster is located underneath the

Adjustment car, between the driveline tun-
nel and the drive shaft.
Tools Necessary 1. Pull the parking brake up
Yz Inch Wrench to the second notch, and
% Inch Open End Wrench put the transmission in neu-
tral.
2. Jack up the rear of the vehi-
cle and place a safety stand
beneath the axle. (On vehi-
cles equipped with a limited
slip differential, both rear
wheels must be off the
ground. See page 105).
3. Release the jam nut on the
Check your parking brake equalizer using the 1/z"
occasionally, as outlined in your wrench and the 3;.4 " wrench.
Owner's Manual. If loose, the 4. Turn the adjusting nut
cable must be adjusted. The ad- clockwise one tum.
., 85
5. Check the rear wheel to see 1. Set the parking brake.
if it spins freely. 2. Raise the front end of the
6. Continue adjustment until vehicle and place safety
the rear wheel begins to stands underneath.
drag. 3. Remove wheel and tire as-
7. Hold adjusting nut with the sembly.
% Inch Open End Wrench
and tighten the jam nut.
Front Disc Pad
Inspection.
The front disc brake mounts
on the rear of the steering
knuckle. The single piston slid-
ing caliper assembly utilizes a
one piece housing with the in-
board side of the housing bored 4. Inspect the disc pads from
for the piston. A seal, within the the front and the rear. There
housing bore, provides a hy-
draulic seal between the piston
and housing wall.
When the brake pedal is de-

pressed, hydraulic pressure
forces the piston and shoe
against the inner surface of the
disc. This force causes the cali-
per to slide inboard, on the
mounting bushings, forcing the
outer brake shoe against the
outer surface of the disc.
86
should be not less than Va plate of , the shoe. If it is
of an inch of shoe material less than Va of an inch the
remaining on the backing shoes should be replaced .
..
Front Brake Caliper Removal (for Wheel Bearing
Lube)
Parts Necessary
4 Mounting Sleeves
4 Retaining Pin Clips
4 Retainer Nuts
Silicone Lubricant
All available from your Chevrolet Dealer
Tools Necessary
Screw Drivers; Small, Medium and Large
% Inch Nut Driver
Rubber Hammer
Pair Pliers
2 Inch x 2 Inch Piece of~ Inch Thick Wood
1. Set the parking brake.

2. Raise the front end of the
vehicle and support with 4. Remove the two mounting
safety stands. Never get be- pin retainer nuts ·and dis-
neath the car when it is sup- card the nuts.
ported only by a jack; the
jack is designed for use
when changing wheels only.
(See page 105.)
3. Remove the wheel and tire
assembly.
87
5. Remove the pins.
6. Lift the caliper off the disc.

Do not let the caliper hang
by the brake line. If you
plan to leave the vehicle at
this point, put the 1;2 inch
piece of wood between the
shoes and hang the caliper
from the front suspension
using a piece of baling wire
or hanger wire.
FRONT BRAKE CALIPER REPLACEMENT
1. Mount the caliper on the

vehicle.
88
2. Spray the mounting pins
with a silicone lubricant.
Care must be taken to make
sure no lubricant comes in
contact with the brake disc
or brake pads.
3. Install the mounting pins

from the outside.
4. Install the retainer nuts

using the end of a nut
driver to force the nut over
the mounting pin.
Please Note:
When installing new retainer nuts. push
on the outer edge only while seating.
5. Pump the brakes.

6. Add new brake fluid to
bring the fluid level to with-
in ;4 inch of the top of the
main cylinder.
7. Replace the main cylinder
cap.
8. Install front wheels.
9. Lower vehicle.
89
Rear Brakes
Special tools are required to properly service this new design
semi-self-adjusting rear brake. We recommend that you not attempt
to service them. Take your Vega back to your Chevrolet dealer for
an inspection if you feel it is required.
Bleeding The Hydraulic System

The hydraulic brake system must be bled whenever any line
has been disconnected or air has in some way entered the system.
A "spongy" pedal feeling when stopping under normal operation
may indicate presence . of air in the system. The system must be
absolutely free of air at all times.
Parts Necessary
Hydraulic Brake Fluid:
Use Delco Hydraulic Brake Fluid, Supreme No. 11
or equivalent when servicing the brakes.
Please Note: When working with brake fluid caution must be taken
to keep it away from painted areas. Brake fluid will damage paint.
Tools Necessary
Helper (a friend)
3fs Inch Open End or Box End Wrench
Rubber Tubing %2 Inch (inside diameter)
A Clear Container (glass or a bottle)
1. Remove the cap from the

main cylinder.
2. Fill the main cylinder (if
necessary) with brake fluid
and reinstall the cap.
3. Begin the following opera-
tion at anyone of the four
wheels.
4. Pour a sufficient amount of
brake fluid in a transparent
container. Enough to en-
sure that the end of the
bleeder hose will remain
submerged during bleeding.
90
5. Place the wrench and one
end of the bleeder hose on
the bleeder fitting at the
wheel.
6. Place the other end into the

transparent container.
7. Open the bleeder valve by
turning the % inch open
end wrench 1;3 of a turn
counterclockwise.
8. Have your helper SLOW-
L Y depress the brake
pedal. When the brake
pedal reaches the end of its
travel close the bleeder
valve and allow the brake
pedal to return slowly to
the released position.
9. Check the fluid level in the
master cylinder, replenish
if necessary using fresh
brake fluid.
91
10. Repeat steps 8 and 9 until
the expelled brake fluid
flows in a solid stream with- Tools Necessary I
out the presence of air bub-
bles, then close the bleeder
Helper (a friend)
% Inch Open End Wrench
.1
valve tightly. ~ Inch Allen Wrench !
11. Remove the hose and
wrench from the bleeder
valve and repeat steps 2 1. Loosen the locknut holding
through 10 at each remain- the ball ·stud.
ing wheel. . 2. Tum the ball stud counter-
12. After bleeding, a "soft" clockwise with the Allen
pedal feel may be noted wrench until the clutch free
when ·your Vega is station- play is about one inch. Have
ary; however, during actual a friend sit in the driver's
stopping operation the ped- seat and tell you when the
al should have a solid feel. free play is one inch.
If it does not, rebleed 3. Tighten the locknut.
brakes.
CLUTCH
Clutch Pedal Free Play
Adjustment
The free play on your clutch
pedal should be close to one
inch.
Clutch free play is the dis-
tance the clutch pedal travels
from the completely released
position to the point where
clutch pressure is felt.
92
SHEET METAL
SHEET METAL REMOVAL
All front end sheet metal components can be easily
removed with a minimum of tools, effort and time.
Parts involved include the:
Grille
Bumper
Valance Panel
Hood Filler Panel
Both Front Fenders
93
Each of these sheet metal components can be removed and
replaced without disturbing any other components.
A socket set would be of great value to you since the ratchet
wrench in such a set is more convenient to use than the standard
open end wrench.
Parts Necessary
As Required
Tools Necessary
Ratchet Handle No. 2 Phillips Screwdriver
2 Inch Extension % 6 Inch Open End Wrench
6 Inch Extension ~ Inch Open End Wrench
% Inch Socket % Inch Open End Wrench
~ Inch Socket
The following is a sequence of the removal of the front end sheet

metal parts. Each of the items, as previously mentioned, can be
removed separately. However, in this sequence we will show you
how to remove each component in turn.
94
Headlamp Assembly
The first step in removing the hood filler panel, or the fenders, is
to remove the headlamp bezels and assemblies.
The headlamp assembly removal procedure can be found in the
lighting section of this manual.
Grille
Remove the Phillips head screws from the grille attaching loca-
tions.
Slip the grille out from behind the bumper .
95
Valance Panel
The fiberglass valance panel is attached to the underbody by %
inch nuts and can be removed easily using a % inch socket, exten-
sion and ratchet.
96
..
-
Bumper
The bumper is removed using a %6 inch wrench or socket.
97
Fender and Hood Filler Panel
The fender requires a ~ inch wrench and/or socket to remove
the bolts.
"
"
98
Before removing the fender, tape the edge of the door and
bumper to guard against scratching. If you are removing the fender
only, you may have to loosen the bumper to gain access to the
attaching nuts under the bumper.
The hood filler panel also requires a V2 inch wrench and/ or
socket. Remove the bolts and the' panel.
."
;-~
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
The Vega is equipped with
Trico Windshield Wiper
Blades. To remove them simply
press down on the wiper arm
and the tab (where the wind-
shield wiper arm meets the
blade connector) simultaneous-
ly. Pull the blade from the arm.
To replace snap the arm into the
blade connector.
99
MINOR
TROUBLE SHOOTING
The chart and the information on the pages which
follow, contain information designed to aid the average
driver to discover, and possibly correct, conditions
resulting in minor mechanical difficulties in his car. The
chart, designed to point out possible solutions to several
ofthe most common automotive malfunctions and point
out a logical checking sequence, will lead step by step
to the most likely causes and corrective procedures. If,
after making the checks and adjustments suggested, the
source of the trouble has not been found and corrected,
it is strongly recommended that an Authorized Chev-
rolet Dealer inspect the vehicle and make whatever re-
pairs or adjustments are necessary.
100
101
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Tune-Up Suggested'
FUEL SYSTEM AND ENGINE
If the ignition switch will cause the engine to "tum over" or
"crank" but the car will not start,check Steps A throughD below.
NOTE: If continual "flooding" of the carburetor is evidenced by a carburetor wet
with fuel or black exhaust smoke. perform the operation suggested in paragraph
o only.
(A) The first and most obvious, and one of the most frequently
overlooked, items to check when you have difficulty in starting
your car is the amount of fuel in the tank. Make it a habit to check
the FUEL GAUGE regularly and most especially at a time when
the engine will "tum over" ·but will not start.
(B) If the fuel tank is not empty, you may check further to see
whether the fuel is reaching the carbur~tor. Remove the air cleaner
and look down into the throat of the carburetor. Actuate the throttle
by pulling on the throttle cable while in the engine compartment
or have someone in the driver's seat step on the gas pedal a few
times. There should be a spurt of fuel into the carburetor for each
stroke of the throttle. If the small stream of fuel doesn't appear in
the carburetor throat there is no fuel in the carburetor bowl. The
fuel filter or fuel lines may be clogged, frozen or the fuel pump may
be inoperative.
(C) Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and remove the
fuel filter nut and filter (See the Tune-Up Section for the pro-
cedure) " If the filter appears clogged replace it. Should the engine
still not start, the fuel pump or the fuel lines may be the problem.
Inspect the fuel pump fuse (ELEC FUEL) and the gauge fuse
(GAUGE TCS) in the fuse block located near the head lamp dim-
mer foot switch, If either fuse is blown, replace it. If it immediately
blows again, see your authorized Chevrolet Dealer to correct the
problem.
(D) If the fuel seems to be reaching the carburetor properly,
the problem may be: a FLOODED CARBURETOR caused by a
"stuck open" condition; or a stuck CHOKE valve. Remove the air
cleaner from the carburetor. Check that the choke valve moves
freely and is not stuck. (Don't mistake normal spring tension for a
.
stuck valve.) Tap the side of the carburetor carefully several times
with a light tool such as a screwdriver handle or pliers. Replace the
air cleaner and attempt to start the engine in the normal manner.
(E) If the car will start but stalls when hot or has a rough idle,
you can suspect a faulty IDLE ADJUSTMENT, a malfunctioning
AUTOMATIC CHOKE or an extremely dirty and blocked AIR
CLEANER ELEMENT, replace your air cleaner if necessary.
102
If the above Fuel System checks. and the checks suggested under
the Electrical System following do not correct the malfunction, it is
recommended that you turn to your Authorized Chevrolet Dealer
" for further checks, adjustments or repairs.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
If, when the ignition key is turned to "Start," the engine will not
turn over, you have good reason to suspect electrical trouble.
(F) When there is no response at all to attempts to start the car,
check the obvious - your AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
SELECTOR LEVER must be in Neutral or Park position before
the engine can be started. Turning the IGNITION SWITCH
rapidly forward and back several times will sometimes correct a
poor internal switch contact.
(G) The ENERGIZER may be discharged. If so, lights will be
dim and the horn will have a poor tone if it will blow at all. Usually
a garage recharge will be necessary to return the energizer to opera-
tion. Occasionaly, however, a long drive will recharge the battery.
NOTE: If the energizer is determined to be dead. and for no apparent reason. have
your Authorized Chevrolet Dealer check the energizer. the DElCOTRON and the
VOLTAGE REGULATOR. Never remove Delcotron "BAT" lead withoutfirst discon-
necting Energizer ground cable.
POOR ENERGIZER CONNECTIONS may be suspected if the

car has operated properly a short time before and now not even
the horn will operate. Check both ends of both battery cables. If
the connections are corroded, a car may sometimes be restored to
operation by removing all cable ends, scraping all contacting sur-
faces clean with a pen knife, and reassembling. If the cables are
broken, they must be replaced. The power supply should now be
restored unless the Energizer is dead.
'" (H) If, however, the lights and horn work properly but the
starter will still not turn over, check the STARTER connections.
A "click" from the starter solenoid indicates that the wiring to the
starter is properly installed. If the wiring seems to be clean and
tightly installed, the trouble is probably in the starter itself and
should be referred to your Authorized Chevrolet Dealer.
When the engine will "turn over" but will not start, the following
items may be checked along with the Fuel System Checks listed
previously.
(I) With a clean dry cloth wipe the ceramic portions of the
spark plugs dry. In particularly damp or rainy weather dampness
may be the cause of not starting, especially when the engine is cold.
103
(J) Check the cables at the top of the distributor and coil as well
as each spark plug cable for tightness.
(K) If the car will still not start, check for spark at the spark
plugs in the following manner:
Pull one of the spark plug wires off its spark plug. Insert a short
piece of bare wire (such as a bobby pin) between the rubber cup
at the end of the spark plug wire and the tubular metal connector
inside of it. If the spark plug wire is wet or oily, wipe it dry. Wrap
a dry handkerchief or facial tissue, folded several thicknesses,
around the wire at least three inches back from the end and grasp
the wire at this point. Hold the bare wire about Y<I. inch from the
bare tip of the spark plug from which you removed the wire. When
the engine is "turned over" a spark should jump across the Y<I. inch
space, indicating ample current supply. If there is no spark, the
difficulty is probably caused by a defective ignition part and should
be corrected by your Authorized Chevrolet Dealer.
COOLING SYSTEM
When the car will run but evidences serious overheating, there
are several items which may be checked.
(L) Engine overheating will occur when the OIL LEVEL falls
dangerously low. Check the oil level as a matter of course.
(M) Low COOLANT LEVEL will, of course, cause engine
overheating. Determine the cause of the low coolant level and have
it corrected if necessary. See page 79 for Cooling System instruc-
tions.
(N) Check the RADIATOR CORE. Clean it if it is plugged
with bugs, leaves or other foreign material.
(0) Condition of the TIMING-FAN BELT is very important,
not only for engine cooling but also for valve timing.
If any problems are suspected or encountered see your authorized
Chevrolet dealer.
104
VEHICLE SUPPORT
. INFORMATION
As mentioned numerous times in this manual you should not get

under any car while it is supported only by the jack. You also should
not try to slide under the vehicle if it is not securely blocked and
braked to prevent it from rolling. The diagram on this page indi-
cates the areas of your Vega which are meant for use when lifting
or supporting.
Some things you should know about using jack stands and blocks:
• Always use the safety stands and wheel blocks in pairs.
105
• Always use the pairs on the front or rear or both, but never on
one side only.
• When raising the front end of the vehicle remove the ground ( - )
terminal of the battery so the engine cannot be accidentally •
started. Firmly set the parking brake and put the transmission
in PARK (auto) or REVERSE (manual).
• When raising the rear, make sure the front wheels are blocked
to prevent vehicle movement.
• The jack with which your Vega is equipped is designed to lift the
vehicle just enough to be able to remove the wheels. Conse-
quently jack stands to accommodate that height will be necessary.
• Blocks or chocks used to block the front wheels should be small
enough so the wheels will not push them away and large enough
to prevent the wheels from rolling over them. Wheel chocks are
commercially available that are designed for this specific purpose.
106
SERVICE LITERATURE AVAILABLE
FOR ·CHEVROLET'S VEGA 2300
The following Chevrolet publications covering the operation and
servicing of the Vega can be purchased by filling out the reverse
side of this order form and mailing it with your check or money
order1:O Helm, Inc.
Vega Service Publications
FORM NO. DESCRIPTION PRICE
ST300-71 VEGA SHOP MANUAL $3.50

Includes: on-the-car adjustment,
maintenance, and overhaul of
minor assemblies; off-the-car
overhaul of major components and
all specifications. Will handle all
chassis service and overhaul
requ i rements .
ST 301-71 VEGA BODY SERVICE MANUAL $2.00

Includes: Complete Body Service
Information for all Vega 2300
body styles.
ST 302-71 VEGA "DO IT YOURSELF" $1.25

SERVICE MANUAL
Includes: basic service procedures
presented in a manner which will
enable the average owner to per-
form necessary service and mainte-
nance operations on his Vega.
ST 303-71 VEGA OWNER'S MANUAL .50¢
Prices subject to change
NOTE: Please fill in reverse side of this form completely

NOTE: Please fill in order form completely and MAIL TO:
HELM, Incorporated All orders will be mailed within

Post Office Box 7706 10 days of receipt. Please allow
Detroit. Michigan 48207 adequate time for postal service.
QUANTITY FORM NO. PRICE EACH TOTAL

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Michigan Purchasers-Add ~% Sales Tax -+ Michigan Sales Tax $
Grand Total $
Make check or money order (NO STAMPS) for this amount

payable to Helm. Inc.
NOTE: Purchasers outside domestic U.S.A. must add 30; to each publication
for mailing expense. Funds MUST be payable in U.S. currency.
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This is your shipping l a b e l " Please print clearly
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INDEX
A. Adjustments Body Parts,
Clutch Pedal Free Lubrication 18
Play . .. .. .... . 92 Brakes 84
Headlamps ...... . 55 Brake Lines 84
Parking Brake .... 85 Front Brake Caliper 86
PowerGlide and Master Cylinder . .. 18
Torque Drive Parking, Adjustment 85
Low Band . .... 11 Rear . 90
Specifications, Breaker' Points 33
Carburetor . . . . . 50 Bulbs, see Lamps
Valves . . . 52 Bumper 93
Air Cleaner . . . . . . .. 48
Air Conditioning 81 C. Cam, Distributor
Refrigerant Quick Lubricator 37
Check Precedure . 82 Canister, Emission
Air Mixture Screws 50 Filter 46
Antifreeze 79 Cap, Distributor . 31
Automatic Capacitor, see
Transmission 11 Condenser
Changing Fluid 12 Carburetor . . . 48
Low Band Adjustment 50
Adjustment ~ . 14 Adjustment
Maintaining Level . If Specifications 50
Shift Quadrant Air Cleaner 48
Lamp 64 Air Mixture Screws 50
Axle, Lubrication 15 Choke Linkage . 48
Fuel Filter 49
B. Battery . .. .... . 28 Throttle . .. . . . . 49
Carrier and Hold Checking Fluid Levels
Down Straps 29 Axle . 15
Condition . . . 29 Automatic
Electrolyte Level 29 Transmision 11
Level Indicator 28 Battery 28
Water Usage 29 Brake Master
Bearings, Cylinder . 18
Wheel Lubrication . 20 Engine Oil 8
Belts, Condition ~nd Manual Steering 16
Tensioning 29 Manual
Power Steering . . 30 Transmission 14
Manual Steering . . . 30 Power Steering . 16
Bleeding Hydraulic Choke Linkage
System 90 Cleaning . . . . ... . 48
109
IN DEX-Continued
Cluster, Instrument . . 66 Free Play Adjustment-
GT Removal ..... 68 Clutch 92
Lamp Replacement . 63 Front Brakes .... . . . 84
Standard Cluster 66 Front Lamps
Clutch, Free Play Headlamps . 55
Adjustment 92 Side Marker 60
Condenser .. . . . . . 36 Turn Signal 59
Contact Points 33 Front Shock Absorbers 77
Cooling System 79 Front Suspension .... 10
Antifreeze 79 Fuses .. .. 69
Flushing .... . . . 80
D. Disc Brake. ... . . . . 86 G. Gapping Spark Plugs .. 43

Distributor . . . . . .' 31 Grille 93
Cam Lubricator .. , 37 GT, Instrument Cluster 68
Cap .. 31
Condenser ....... 36
Contact Points 33 H. Hazard Flasher . . . . . . 65
Rotor ........... 31 Headlamps 55
Dome Lamp .. . . . . . ' 63 Hose Inspection
Drum Brake 92 Power Steering 17
Hydraulic System
Bleeding . . . . . . . . . 92
E. Electrolyte Level,
Battery. . . 29
Emission Canister 46 I. Indicator
Engine Tire Wear . . 70
Cooling 79 Battery Fluid Level. 28
Lubrication ...... 6 Instrument Cluster . .. 66
Oil Change . 8
Timing 43
Evaporative Emission L. Lamps
Canister . . . . . . . . . 46 Dome ..... . . . .. 63
Headlamp .. .... . 55
F. Fender, see Instrument Cluster . 63
Sheet Metal License Plate 62
Filter Shift Quadrant . . . . 64
Emission Canister 46 Side Marker 60
Fucl 49 Turn Signal 59
Flasher Lash, Valve 52
Hazard . . ... . .. . 65 Lights, see Lamps
Turn Signal 65 Lines, Brake 85
110
INDEX-Continued
Lubncation Powerglide 11
Axle . 15 Fluid Change 13
Body Parts .. .. . , . 18 Low Band
Brake Master Adjustment 14
Cylinder .... . . . 18 Power Steering 16
Engine 6
Front Suspension 6 Q. Quality of Oils 7
Manual Steering .. . 16
Manual R. Rear
Transmission 14 Axle 15
Powerglide Brakes . ... ·90
Transmission 11 Shocks 78
Power Steering 16 Refrigerant Quick
Rear Axle 15 Check Procedure 82
Torque Drive 11 Rotor, Distributor 31
Wheel Bearings 20
S. SAE Viscosity Oils 6
M. Maintenance Schedule . 4 Schedule, Maintenance 4
Manual Steering . 16 Semi Automatic, see
Manual Transmission . 14 Torque Dr~ve
Marker Lamps, see Sheet Metal 93
Lamps Shift Quadrant Lamp . 64
Master Cylinder, Brake 18 Shock Absorbers
Mixture Screws 50 Front ... . . . . .. 77
Rear . . . .. . . . . 78
O. Oil Change Signal, Turn
Automatic Lamps, see Lamps
Transmission 13 Flashers, see Flasher
Engine ..... 8 Spark Plugs 37
Torque Drive 13 What Spark Plugs
Oils Can Tell You .
Viscosity 6 About an Engine . 38
Types of . . .. . .... 7 Standard Instrument
Cluster . 66
P. Parking Brake 85 Steering
Plugs, Spark; see Manual 16
Spark Plugs Power 16
PCVValve . .. 45 Suspension, Front 10
Points, Contact 33
Positive Crankcase T. Tension, Belt 29
Vent Valve 45 Throttle Linkage 49
111
INDEX-Continued
Timing, Engine 43 V. Valve, Engine;
Tires Adjustment , ,52
Changing
Inspection
74
71
Valve, Positive
Crankcase .'
Rotation · . . . . . . . . 75 Ventilation 45
Wear Indicator , 70 Vega ; the brightest star
Torque Drive in the Constellation
TranSmission 11 Lyra
Transmission Viscosity, Oil . . . . . . . 6
Manual · . . . . . . 14
Powerglide 11 W. Water Usage, Battery, , 29
Torque Drive 11 Wear Indicator, Tires . 70
Tune up 24 Wear Inspection, Tires 7.1
Turn Signal Wheel Bearings 20
Flasher · .. . . .. 65 Wiper Blade . , 99
Lamp · . . .. . .. 59 Windshield Wiper
Types of Oils 7 Blade 99
III ·
112
U lho In U.S.A.

1971 Chevrolet Vega OM Ocr PDF

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Caution: As with any machinery. extreme care should be taken when

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All informati'o ncontained

ST-302-71 Part No. 3988975

Engine Cooling and Air Conditioning . . . .. . . 79

Brakes and Clutch . . ... . ... .. ....... . _... .. . . . . 84

Minor Trouble Shooting . . . . .. 100

RECOMMENDED SAE VISCOSITY NUMBER

TEMPERATURE RANGE ANTICIPATE!) BEFORE NEXT OIL CHANGE, OF.

Types of Oils- How to Determine the Quality of Oil

4. Add oil only if the level falls

Engine Oil Change

It is always advisable to drain the crankcase only after the engine

1. Run the engme until it

1. Apply chassis lubricant tings on the linkage.

3. Rub the same lubricant on guide located between the

POWERGLIDE AND TORQUE

Changing the Automatic Transmission Fluid

1. Run the engine for a min-

Parts Necessary (if addition is required)

REAR AXLE LUBRICATION

Parts Necessary (if addition is required)

MANUAL STEERING INSPECTION

2. Remove the filler cap. The

3. If the fluid is not at operat-

1. Take care to prevent for- retaining wire off the cover.

1. Remove all dirt and old 2. Spray or wipe the lubricant

WHEEL BEARING LUBRICATION

1. Remove the disc caliper

4. With both hands pull even-

5. Remove the disc from the

6. Using a wooden hammer

8. Place a small amount of

9. Replace the inner bearing

11. Insert the outer bearing and

Engine Exhaust Gas Caution: Avoid inhaling exhaust gases

The indicator reveals at a tom of the vent well features a

BELT CONDITION AND TENSIONING

2. Using a slot screwdriver re-

4. Replace with a new set of

6. Check the point alignment

7. Place the % inch socket bing block on the point arm

8. Adjustthe point gap to .019

1. If you decide a new con-

the wire will cause the car-

Under normal operating con-

accumulate on the insulator are

Wet, oily deposits with a Heat Shock Failure

1. Disconnect the distributor

A. External Source Light:

4. Locate the light in a secure still.) Each peak indicates

1. Inspect for deteriorated or