Textile Raw Material-II

COURSE CODE: TEX2101

BASIC CONCEPT ON TEXTILE FIBRE

Textile Process Flow Chart

Raw materials / Fibre

Spinning

Weaving / Knitting

Dyeing, printing, finishing

Garments
Fiber Yarn Fabric
 Fiber

Yarn

Fabric

Garments
Fiber to Garments Flow Chart (In broad sense)

Monomer

Polymer

Fiber

Yarn

Fabric

Garments
Fiber

Fiber is a natural or chemical substance consisting of

flexibility which has a high ratio of length to its
diameter (Normally length is 1000 times greater then
its diameter)

 A substance can be a fibre if its fulfill to main

conditions-
 It must be flexible.
 It must have a sufficient length which is 1000
times greater than its diameter.
Textile Fiber

A Textile Fiber is a natural or chemical substance

which has all the requirements to be a fiber and
must have sufficient strength, inter attraction force,
fineness and spinnability. A fiber which is
spinnable is called textile fiber.
Elements of Textile fiber

 All substances are constructed out of about 118

basic chemical elements. The smallest individual
component in chemistry is the atom. Atoms build
up a molecule and molecules build up the basic
building blocks of chemical compounds. The most
important atoms in fiber forming materials are
carbon(C), Hydrogen(H), Nitrogen(N), Sulphur(S)
and Silicon(Si).
Monomer

The individual small molecule from which polymer is

formed is called monomer. The word mono means one
and the word mer means unit. So monomer means one
unit or single unit.

Mono + Mer = Monomer

One Unit One Unit

Polymer

Fiber molecules which formed monomer is called

polymer. The word poly means many and mer means
unit. So polymer means many unit bonded together with
covalent bonds.

Poly + Mer = Polymer

Many Unit Many Unit

The process by which the monomer molecules are linked to
formed a big polymer molecule is called polymerization.
Monomer molecules are linked together and formed a chain
that is called polymer chain.

n A Polymerization A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A-A ……………n

n A + B Polymerization A-B-A-B-A-B-A-B-A-B-A-B-A-B
………n

At the molecular level the polymer is extremely long and

linear where as the monomer is very small. Monomers are
usually reactive where as polymers tend to unreactive.
Arrangement of Polymer Chain

 Crystallinity: Crystallinity is the crystalline or regular

arrangement of polymer chain in a polymer system. In
crystalline region polymer chains are being parallel or
near about parallel one to another.

 Influences:
 Polymer chains are being parallel or near about parallel
one to another. So that the hydrogen bonds among
polymer chains are very strong. Strength increases in the
polymer system.
 There is small gap or no gap between two polymer chain.
So that the water molecule can not easily enter into the
polymer system. Water absorbency of polymer system
reduces.
 Amorphous: Amorphous is the irregular arrangement of
polymer chain in a polymer system. In amorphous region
polymer chains are being irregular or random one to
another.

 Influences:
 Polymer chains are being irregular or random one to
another. So that the hydrogen bonds among polymer
chains are very weak. Strength decreases in the polymer
system.
 There is many gap between two polymer chain. So that
the water molecule can easily enter into the polymer
system. Water absorbency of polymer system increases.
Crystalline & Amorphous Region
Effect of Crystalline and Amorphous Region in Fiber

 Crystalline region Regular arrangement Strength

Water absorbency Moisture regain
Static Electricity Comfortness

 Amorphous region Regular arrangement Strength

Water absorbency Moisture regain
Static Electricity Comfortness
Difference between Crystalline and Amorphous Fibre

Crystalline Fibre Amorphous Fibre

Stronger Weaker
Less absorbent More absorbent
More durable Less durable
Less easily degraded by chemicals More easily degraded by chemicals.
Less easily dyed More easily dyed
Less pliable, stiffer handling More pliable, softer handling
Moisture Regain (M.R)

Moisture regain is the amount of water taken from

environment in its oven dry weight when any substance
are kept into the open environment. Mathematically
Moisture regain is the ratio of weight of water taken
from the environment to its oven dry weight. It is
usually expressed as percentage.
M.R % of Various Fiber

Fiber Name M.R%

Cotton 8.5%
Jute 13.75%
Silk 11%
Wool 16%
Polyester 0.4%
Nylon 6%
 What is
swelling????
Forms of Man Made fibre
 Filament
 Staple
 Filament tow.
Filament: Filament fibres are spun from spinnerets with 350 holes or less is
determined by the size of the yarn to be made. The number of holes in the spinneret
determines the no of filaments in the yarn. Filaments are of two types:
 Mono filament
 Multi filament
Monofilament: This filament is made only of a single filament.
Multifilament: These filaments are made of more than one filament.
 Staple fibre: Staple fibre is of limited and relatively short length . The
length of the staple fibre depends on its use. Staple fibre is a unit of matter
which is usually at least 100 times longer than its thick.

 Filament Tow: The product of 100 or more spinnerets is collected into a

large rope of fibres called Tow. This rope or tow is crimped and then made
into staple by cutting or breaking.
 Advantages & Disadvantages of MMF

 Production does not depend on  Fabrics made of MMF are difficult

climate & location. to stitch
 Quality & quantity can be  Low air permeability
controlled  Uncomfortable
 Length & thickness can be  Unhygienic
controlled
 Hydrophobic
 Staple length can be controlled
 Smoothness & high luster
 Fiber processing is easier
 High productivity & low cost
Properties required for Fibre forming
polymer:
 Molecular weight should be high.
 Crystallinity – high not suitable.
 Resistance to different chemical.
 Orientation – Physical and chemical symmetry.
 Straight chain structure.
 Glass Transition Temperature (Tg) – Should be near to room Temp.
 Crystalline Melting Point (Tm) - 200o – 300o c is suitable.
 Polymer should be soluble in some solvent from which it can be spun.
 Hygroscopic nature – Should be hydrophobic.
 Chain length – Should be at least 100 m
 Should be Linear.
Spinneret

A plate or nozzle containing many fiber holes or slits through which a fiber
forming polymer solution is extruded in the fiber manufacturing process. The
number of holes varies with desired number of filaments required.

Made of:
-Platinum, Iridium, Stainless steel etc.
-Should be corrosion resistant metal.
Different shapes of spinneret
Features of Spinneret

 Spinneret holes are slightly wider at the entry than the

exit.
 The denier of filament extruded through a hole does not
depend upon its size, but it has some significance on the
efficient extrusion depending on melt delivery speed.
 Special spinnerets are required for the production of
hollow fibres and bi-component fibres.
 Afterlong use the spinnerets get checked and it is
essential to clean them.
 The spinneret holes may be broken spotted.
Flow chart of MMF production

1. Manufacture of the fiber forming polymer.

2. Spinning ( extrusion through spinneret)
3. Stretching/Drawing ( improving strength and crystallinity)
4. Texturing/Crimping ( developing natural fibre properties)
5. Intermingling/Interlacing( applied instead of twisting)
6. Heat setting( made dimensionally stable)
1.Manufacturing of the fibre forming
polymer
All man made fibres are composed of long chain molecules
known as polymer which are formed by chemical processing.
The polymer manufacturing process is the determining factor
for many basic characteristics such as density, melting point,
dyeing behavior, moisture absorption etc.
Common groups in polymers –
I)Amide or Peptide groups ( -CO-NH-)
II)Benzene ring
III)Ether linkage( -C-O-C-)
IV)Ester linkage(-C-O-O-)
V)Hydroxyl group (-OH)
VI)Nitrile group (-C-N-)
2.Spinning:

 The conversion of polymer into fibre is called spinning.

The fibre forming substance is made temporarily fluid,
extruded through spinneret and then returned to solid
state (by solidification) in fibre form.
 Three types of spinning process:
 Melt spinning.
 Wet spinning.
 Dry spinning.
1. Melt spinning

 The process of spinning by which fibre or filament is produced from melted

polymer chips by extruding through spinneret continuous filament produced
here. Number of filament depends on number of holes in spinneret.
Fiber: Nylon, polyester, and polyolefin, poly propylene fibres.
Properties: Uniformity, crystallinity, and orientation are imparted to the yarn
during processing.
Working process

 The polymer in the form of hot molten material is forcely fed to the
spinneret.
 In the way to spinneret , the solution is purified by filter.
 Thus the filaments are extruded from spinneret .
 At last the filaments are strengthened by coolant air to solid form.
 Finally we get undrawn yarn for next subsequent process Drawing.
Requirements

 The polymer should not be volatile.

 The melting point of polymer should be less than
its decomposition temp.
Typical melt spinning

Polymer Melting point

Nylon-6,6 264 c
Nylon-6 220 c
PET 264 c
Polypropylene 167 c
Polyethylene 125 c
Advantage:

1. Can be used for both staple and continuous filament.

2. Direct and simple process.
3. No environment pollution.
4. No solvent required.
5. Non toxicity and no risk of explosion.
6. High production speed (2500 – 3000 ft/min)
Disadvantage:

 Required more proper maintenance of the m/c.

 For flat yarn separate stretching operation is reqd.
 Heat of input is high.
 2.Dry spinning
 In dry spinning, the fiber forming polymer dissolved in a volatile solvent is introduced
into a heated drying chamber where the solvent is evaporated and solid fibre is
obtained through spinneret. This process is used for Acetate and some polyacrylonitrile
fiber.
Dry spinning process:
 At first , the solid polymer & suitable solvent is dissolved together in the solution
vessel to form spinning solution which is forcely fed to the spinneret.
 In the way, it is purified by filter.
 Thus the filaments are extruded from the spinneret.
 At last, the filaments are strengthened to solid form by vaporizing the solvent by
means of hot air.
 Finally we get undrawn yarn for next process.
Process of Dry spinning
Dry spinning solvent:

Fiber Solvent
 Cellulose - Acetone + (2-6) % water
 Triacetate - Methylene chloride (40%) + Methanol (10%)
 Poly acrylonitrile - Di-methyl formamide or Dimethylacetamide.
 Spandex - DMF, DMAC.
 Modacrylic - Acetone.
Advantage:
 Suitable for producing fine denier fibers.
 No need of wash of fiber.
Disadvantage:
 Investment cost is high.
 Toxic and risk of explosion.
 Heat input is very high.
 Can not be used for staple fiber production.
 3.Wet spinning:
In wet spinning a suitable solvent is used to prepare fiber forming
solution and another coagulant is used in coagulating bath. Solution
is extruded through spinneret and in contact of coagulant cellulose is
regenerated. It is used for viscose rayon, PVA, PAN.
Process:
1.At first, the solid polymer & solvent is dissolved in the solution
vessel to form the spinning solution which is forcely fed to the
spinneret.
2. In the way to spinneret it is purified by filter.
3. Thus the filaments are extruded from the spinneret.
4. At last, the filaments are strengthened to solid form by extraction
of solvent instead of vaporizing used in dry spinning. The extraction
of solvent is done simply by washing it out or by chemical reactions
between the polymer solution & the reagent in the spinning bath.
5. Finally, we get the undrawn yarn for next process.
Wet spinning Process:
Wet spgn solvent & coagulant:

Fiber Solvent Coagulant

 Viscose Alkaline water Dill H2SO4 + Na2SO4 + ZnSO4
 PVA Water Aqueous NaOH
 PAN DMF/DMC +60% ZnCl2 Aq DMF/DMC + 40% ZnCl2
Advantages & Disadvantages:

 Suitable for staple fibre.  Slow spgn speed.

 Both organic and inorganic solvent  Washing and bleaching of fibres are
can be used. needed.
 Low temp reqd.  Toxic.
 Higher production due to continue
spgn.
 Softener process.
 Investment cost is low.
 4 April 2020
Differentiate between melt, dry and wet spinning
Parameter Melt spgn Dry spgn Wet spgn
1. Investment cost Low High Low
2. Hazard Non toxic Toxic Toxic
3. Heat of spgn High Very high Low
4. Spinneret hole 2 – many thousands 300 – 900 20000 – 75000

5. Spgn speed 2500 – 3000 ft/min 2500 – 3000 ft/min 150 – 300 ft/min

6. Productivity High Low High

7. Application Filament or staple Filament Filament or staple

8. Solvent Not required Only volatile organic Both organic and

solvent inorganic solvent can
be use.
53
 3.Drawing:

The process by which the yarn/ fiber is elongated by passing it

through a series of pair of rollers, each pair moving faster than the
previous one is called drawing. Drawing is always carried out in a
plastic condition. It is a system which removes stable, weak and
brittle properties of filament.
Object:

I)To increase strength of fiber.

II)To reduce elongation at break.
III)To reduce creep property.
IV)To increase orientation and crystallinity.
V)To remove brittleness and instability of the filament.
Construction & Mechanism of Spinning
Machinery:
They have several basic elements in common:

1) Polymer Supplying Device

2) Feeder/Hooper
3) A reservoir (Melting of Polymer)
4) Metering pump/Extruder (A fluid in which the filaments are formed, Extrusion of molten
Polymer/The fiber-forming material)
5) A spinning jet (spinneret ),the fiber forming device
6) Stretching/Drawing (Orientation of fiber forming polymers macromolecules)
7) Spin-Finish with wax/fat/oil
8) Texturising/crimping (Make a natural texture/twist in fiber)
9) Cutting according to staple length
10) A take-up mechanism which draws the filaments and winds them onto a package.
 5.Texturisation:
Texturisation is the process by which flat filaments are distorted to have crimps,
coils, curls or loops along their length to achieve bulk and greater absorbency.
Advantages & Disadvantages

 Crease resistance, dimensionally  Create problem in laundering.

stable.
 Reduce strength.
 Better appearance, softer handle.
 Decrease abrasion resistance.
 Higher absorbency and better
 Creates hairiness of fibre.
perspiration conductivity.
 Capability to yarn formation
 Better air permeability.
 More flexibility.
 5.Intermingling:

 The process by which can be made the synthetic yarn smooth by adding
additives or spot welding to protrude filament ends is called intermingling.
 It is very hard and costly to twist the man made fiber. The fibers that are
composed of more that filament those are interminglinged.

Spot welding: Heat treatment /adhesives are used Air Jet method: Composed air at high pressure.
Objects: Advantages:
1. To impart smoothness to synthetic 1.Cheap
yarn.
2.Very effective
3.Simple process
4.Very quick
 6. Heat Setting:
The process of imparting dimensional stability to fibre, yarns, fabrics or garments with
successive heating and cooling in dry and moist conditions is called heat setting.

Objects:
• To make the yarn, fabric, fibre
dimensionally stable.
• To remove shrinkage of fabric.
Disadvantage:
• The fibres become very stiff.
• Uneven shade due to uneven heat
set.
• If heat set is done after dyeing then
elimination of dyes as a result of
patchiness.
Morphology of chemical fiber:

Profile of fibers:
 Topography, fiber diameter, Cross section , fineness, Texture, amorphous- and
crystalline, semi-crystalline, lamellar crystals in a fibrous polymer.

Physical change:
 Strength , Elasticity , Plasticity , Porosity , Solubility , Swelling , Hydration ,
Capillarity.
S.N Name of the Instrument Measured Property
1 HVI (High Volume Instrument ) Fiber length, strength, fineness, color and trash
2 AFIS (Advanced Fiber Information Fiber length, trash and neps.
System )
3 X-Ray Diffraction System Amorphous and crystal part of a fiber.

Vibromate Individual strength of fiber

4 UV-Spectroscope Chemical composition & structures.

5 IR or FTIR-Spectroscope Chemical composition & structures with functional groups.

6 GPC (Gel-Permeation- Mass-molecular distribution

Chromatography)
7 DSC(Different Scanning Calorimeter) Thermal properties of fiber.

NMR Spectroscopy Structure of fiber

8 TGA(Thermo-Gravimetric Analysis) Thermal properties of fiber
9 SEM and AFM Surface topography of a fiber 63

10 Zeta potential meter Charge on fiber surface.