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Vietnam Ch 01 020–051 5/15/03 12:26 PM Page 20

National Highway 1, stretching the length of Vietnam from the Chinese border in the north to
the Mekong Delta in the south, allows the transport of people and goods along the country’s
3,260 kilometers of coastline. Shown here is Hai Van Pass (Pass of the Ocean of Clouds), a steep
and sometimes perilous mountain pass between Hue and Danang in central Vietnam.
Vietnam Ch 01 020–051 5/15/03 12:26 PM Page 21

one country,
many journeys
Oscar Salemink 1

M any people are surprised to learn that Vietnam has

the second largest population in Southeast Asia after Indonesia.
At almost 80 million (over 76 million according to the 1999 census), it is
larger than France, England, or Italy. Vietnam’s population is also
immensely diverse, with over fifty officially recognized ethnic groups
speaking more than fifty languages (some linguists claim more than one
hundred) belonging to three language families subdivided into eight lan-
guage groups. In addition, most of the world’s major religions are repre-
sented in Vietnam—Buddhism, Confucianism, Taoism, Islam, Hinduism,
Christianity (Catholic and Protestant)—besides myriad other religious
beliefs and practices, often described as animism, shamanism, spirit wor-
ship, or ancestor worship.

21
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22 oscar salemink

This diverse reality may clash with

some images that Westerners have of Viet-
nam. For decades American and Euro-
pean interest in Vietnam was largely
provoked by wars and related events dur-
ing the Cold War. Westerners were caught
by the image of Vietnam either as an
enemy of the free world or as David
defeating a series of imperialist Goliaths.
Both of these images are far from an accu-
rate picture of the country and its history.
In numerous books, reports, and films
In Hue a Vietnamese tourist dons the
imperial robes of the Nguyen dynasty, about Vietnam, the people with the conical hats are portrayed as living in
traveling back imaginatively to a rural village communities that have changed little over time, their lives
moment in the past for a souvenir
photograph. steeped in tradition. The irony is that such notions and their attendant
visual images emerged when Vietnamese society was undergoing a sea
change, when much of the countryside was ravaged and villages were being
resettled, when much of its population had left the villages to fight a war
whose horizons lay far beyond the village boundaries, when migration,
both domestic and international, was increasing, when Vietnam’s global
integration was accelerated by virtue of its being one arena in which the
international Cold War was fought. The irony is, too, that a great deal of
Vietnam’s history and culture is about movement, migration, travel, and
change, as revealed by much of its popular art and literature. Rather than
discuss various images of Vietnam (accurate or inaccurate), therefore, this
overview will pay attention to changes—the journeys of the Vietnamese
people over time, in space, and spiritually—without, however, denying sig-
nificant continuities in Vietnam’s culture and history.

River Deltas, Coasts, and Mountains

v i e t n a m i s a t r o p i c a l c o u n t r y in mainland Southeast Asia,

located between the Tropic of Cancer and the eighth parallel in the North-
ern Hemisphere. To the south and east we find the South China Sea (East
Sea) and, farther on, the islands of Hainan and Taiwan, the archipelago of
Vietnam Ch 01 020–051 5/15/03 12:26 PM Page 23

one country, many journeys 23

the Philippines, and the island of Borneo. To the north Vietnam shares a
border with China, and to the west lie Laos and Cambodia, which until
1954 were, with Vietnam, part of French Indochina. The shape of present-
day Vietnam is like an S, with the major deltas of the Red River and the
Mekong connected by a narrow coastal strip and a mountain range known
as the Annam Cordillera (Truong Son in Vietnamese). The northern delta,
where the capital, Hanoi, is located, has four seasons, with surprisingly cold
winters brought by wet winds coming down from the northern Chinese
mainland. The monsoon climate in the southern half of the country results
in a rainy season from April to November and a dry season from December
through March.
Historically, much of South-
east Asia’s present population is
the result of myriad waves of
migration. Whereas it is assumed
that insular Southeast Asia and
O ne day the
dragon god Lac Long
Quan, who ruled the Kingdom
Quan then decided that he
and Au Co belonged to differ-
ent worlds. Because he was a
Polynesia were settled by speak- of Lac Viet, eloped with the dragon and she a fairy, they
ers of proto-Austronesian lan- fairy Au Co, who came from had to live apart—he in the
guages coming from the coasts of water, and she on the land.
■ T H E S TO RY O F O N E
Vietnam and southern China, Half the children would live
HUNDRED EGGS
the population structure of main- with her on the land, and half
land Southeast Asia is the result the north (China). He lived in would follow him under the
of successive migrations from an underwater palace while water. They would live apart
China southward, of such groups she lived in a palace on top but help one another in times
as Thai, Burmese, Lao, and of a mountain. Out of their of need. Thus it happened,
Hmong. According to tradition, union she laid one hundred and the fifty children of Au
the Vietnamese themselves had eggs from which one hundred Co became the rulers of Lac
their origin in the Red River human children hatched and Viet, known as the Hung
Delta, about two thousand years grew. When Au Co went on a kings, the remote ancestors of
ago. The legend of Au Co and journey to visit her home the present-day Vietnamese.
Lac Long Quan tells the story of country in the north, she was
stopped at the border by [Adapted from Vietnamese
the birth of Vietnam, the result Legends and Folk Tales.
of a marriage between the ele- Hoang De, the emperor of Hanoi 2001: The Gioi.]
ments of water and land. This heaven, who threatened to
legend, graphically depicted in a invade Lac Viet. Lac Long
four-hundred-year-old bas-relief
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24 oscar salemink

In 248 C.E. Trieu Thi Trinh (Lady

Trieu), at the age of nineteen, led
a courageous insurrection against
the Chinese. Legend has it that this
woman general rode an elephant
into battle, wearing golden armor, a
golden scarf, and ivory clogs. Today
she is a popular symbol of national
unity and independence, as evoked
in this woodblock print by Nguyen
Dang Che of Dong Ho village.

in Binh Da village near Hanoi, is now taken to mean that all ethnic groups
stem from the same source, thus signifying the essential national unity of
the country. The revival of the celebration of the Hung King Festival in
Phu Tho province has recently been taken up as symbol of the birth of an
indigenous Vietnam before the Chinese became players in its history.
The French scholar George Coedès has stated that Indochina was not
just a geographic space between India and China but also a site of cultural
cross-fertilization by Indian and Chinese influences.1 While Coedès
described the Khmer and Lao civilizations as “Hinduized,” Vietnam was
“Sinicized,” thoroughly influenced by Chinese civilization. From 211 b.c.e.
to 938 c.e. the northern part of what is now Vietnam was occupied by a suc-
cession of Chinese dynasties. During this millennium, Chinese technology,
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one country, many journeys 25

In 938 Ngo Quyen vanquished

the Chinese invaders and in 939
proclaimed himself king, setting up
the first independent Vietnamese
state, after nearly a thousand years
under Chinese occupation. This
woodblock print by Nguyen Dang
Che depicts Ngo Quyen’s successful
battle in the Bach Dang Estuary,
where retreating Chinese ships sank,
impaled on the spikes his troops had
submerged so they would not be visi-
ble to the invaders when they sailed
in at high tide.

culture, and political and religious concepts exerted a deep influence over
Vietnam. After breaking loose from China, Vietnam—as one of the states
paying tribute to the Middle Kingdom—continued to model itself on
China in many ways,2 although part of the Vietnamese national narrative is
the story of the struggle against China for independence. In recent years,
however, Vietnamese archaeologists and historians have begun to stress
that the roots of the Vietnamese nation preceded cultural influences from
China and, to a lesser extent, India. These roots, found in the Dong Son
culture with its famous bronze drums, are often portrayed as alien to Chi-
nese civilization and resembling the material culture of some indigenous
ethnic groups of the Annam Cordillera and Central Highlands. Even though
such bronze drums have been found all over mainland and insular South-
east Asia, from Yunnan in China to Timor, Vietnamese historical narra-
tives now appropriate the Dong Son culture as quintessentially
proto-Vietnamese.
Another major part of the Vietnamese national narrative is the so-called
Nam Tien, or March to the South, of the Kinh (Viet). When Vietnam
finally became independent from China, the successive dynasties of Ly
(1009–1225), Tran (1225–1400), and Le (1428–1786) attempted to pacify their
border with China by recognizing China’s suzerainty over Vietnam in the
form of political and moral overlordship marked by regular tributes to the
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26 oscar salemink

Chinese emperor. That saved economic and military resources for expan-
sion south through the gradual absorption of Champa, a seafaring Hin-
duized polity in what is now central Vietnam. The Austronesian-speaking
Cham had developed a civilization bearing similarities to the Khmer civi-
lization and the premodern states of Srivijaya and Mataram in what is now
Indonesia. Beginning in the seventeenth century, the Kinh absorbed the
declining Champa Kingdom. Kinh culture, actively promoted by the south-
ern Nguyen lords, did not saturate the entire Mekong Delta until the twen-
tieth century. During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, north and
south remained politically separate. In the northern part of the country the
Le dynasty was kept alive by the Trinh lords, whereas in the south the
Nguyen lords had carved out a separate domain while formally recognizing
the Le emperors. This led to a state of perennial hostility and a constant
search for economic and military resources. The Nguyen lords in particular
attempted to increase their domain through southward expansion, gradually
absorbing areas where Cham and Khmer populations lived.
After the country’s reunification by the Tay Son rebellion (1786) and the
subsequent “reconquest” by the Nguyen dynasty, which from 1802 on
asserted hegemony throughout Vietnam, the attention of Vietnam’s rulers
turned west. During parts of the nineteenth century, a stronger Vietnamese
state controlled parts of what is now Cambodia and Laos and clashed with
Siam (Thailand), which was expanding eastward.3 This process was
stopped by the imposition of French colonial rule and the marking of bor-
ders between French Indochina and Siam. Still now, at the dawn of the
twenty-first century, Vietnam has privileged relationships with Cambodia
and especially Laos. In the second half of the nineteenth century, the
French first annexed the southern part of Vietnam, Cochin China, as a
colony and imposed a protectorate over Annam and Tonkin, the central
and northern parts of the country, formally leaving the Nguyen dynasty and
its mandarinate intact. Vietnam’s western borders with Laos and Cambodia
became fixed under French colonial rule, creating the political space for a
westward movement of the majority Kinh people into the highlands. The
creation of a modern nation-state with fixed borders also meant that a vari-
ety of upland populations became ethnic minorities in Vietnam.
A key element of French colonial rule was the attempt to link people—
both individuals and local/ethnic groups—to particular places, either
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one country, many journeys 27

One of Vietnam’s important national heroes, Le Loi led a successful ten-year (1418–1428)
uprising against the Chinese. According to legend, Le Loi returned the sword that gave him
victory to Hoan Kiem Lake (now the center of Hanoi), where it was retrieved by a giant
turtle. Here, his story is portrayed by water puppets.

inhibiting movement or, where necessary, promoting tightly supervised

migration. One example of such supervised migration was the exploitation
of “coolies” from northern Vietnam on the rubber plantations in eastern
Cochin China and the various plantations in the Central Highlands and
Tonkin.4 In terms of village rule, the French attempted to shore up their
control of village administration by undermining traditional village auton-
omy.5 Administrative measures imposed by the French made the move-
ment and migration of peasants more difficult. According to Jan Breman
and John Kleinen, such colonial interventions in village administration
had the effect of creating more tightly knit communities, which were sub-
sequently regarded as the traditional model of the village.6
Colonial rule introduced sweeping changes in Vietnam, propelling it
into the modern world in sometimes unexpected ways. The modern
nationalism of the twentieth century was largely fed by contacts with over-
seas intellectuals and often led by members of a diaspora of Vietnamese liv-
ing in other Asian countries. The influential Dong Du movement
(meaning “study in the east,” i.e. in Japan) and the Vietnamese Commu-
nist Party leadership based in China until World War II are two examples of
how travel and migration—the movement of people, goods, and ideas—
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28 oscar salemink

Labeled “The Automobile, the

Bicycle, and the Hunt [courtship?],”
these ironic woodblock prints from
were at the root of Vietnam’s most successful nationalist movement. When
the mid-1920s by Vietnamese artists the struggle for independence in Vietnam eventually resulted in an all-out
show the peculiar clothing, strange
guerrilla war against the French under the Communist Viet Minh move-
vehicles, and ambiguous courtship
maneuvers of the French, who were a ment, villagers from all over the country were mobilized. The temporary
colonial presence from 1858 to 1954.
separation of the country in 1954 along the seventeenth parallel, after the
The prints refer to these behaviors,
perhaps sarcastically, as “new mores” Viet Minh victory over the French at Dien Bien Phu and the Geneva
and “the progress of civilization.” Agreements, undid the previous three-part division of Vietnam and almost
The figures engage in obscure collo-
quial conversation, saying in the left- restored the division between the Trinh and Nguyen lords that had existed
hand frame, “I couldn’t give a damn,” before the Tay Son rebellion of 1786. This division was accompanied by a
and in the right-hand one, “You
watch it!” massive movement of Viet Minh cadres to the north and of anti-Communist
Vietnamese, mostly Catholics, to the south.
Enormous upheavals and population movements resulted when the
Second Indochina War (known as the Vietnam War or American War)
broke out between North and South in 1960, aggravated by the deployment
of U.S. troops in 1965. The famous Ho Chi Minh trail, the supply route for
Vietnam Ch 01 020–051 5/15/03 12:27 PM Page 29

one country, many journeys 29

This woodblock print, originally made by Nguyen Dang Tuy in 1945

and reproduced here by his son Nguyen Dang Che, shows a literacy
class for the common people. Mass literacy was a top priority for the
revolutionary nationalist leadership fighting for Vietnam’s inde-
pendence from the French. Although Vietnam historically had a
long educational tradition based on the Confucian canon and elite
mastery of Chinese and Sino-Vietnamese (Han nom) ideographs,
illiteracy prevailed during the colonial period. Vietnam’s literacy
rate is estimated at 85 percent.

troops and resources from north to south during that conflict, can be seen
as a recapitulation of the Nam Tien in another form and historical context.
Successive southern regimes resettled villages and populations on a mas-
sive scale in an attempt to gain control over these populations and separate
them from the guerrillas. Many villagers from predominantly rural Viet-
nam fled the war in the countryside and settled in rapidly expanding cities,
especially Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) and Danang.
After 1975, the now reunified Socialist Republic of Vietnam also resorted
to resettlement as an instrument of political control and economic man-
agement. Many southern city-dwellers were moved to New Economic
Zones in the Mekong Delta and the Central Highlands, many farmers
from the densely populated northern deltas came to the south in search of
land, and cadres from the north came south to establish social and ideolog-
ical institutions that would serve as the foundation for the new regime. This
movement can be seen in part as another instance of the Nam Tien, with
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30 oscar salemink

“Bravo for Vietnamese women! Heroes in production as well as in battle!” Celebrated as

leaders in the family, as workers in the economy, and as soldiers in the wars for national
independence, Vietnamese women are shown planting rice and ready to defend their
country in this contemporary reproduction of a woodblock print from the 1960s.

the additional westward movement into the Central Highlands near the
western border constituting something of a Tay Tien, or March to the West.
Vietnam remains a largely rural society, with over 75 percent of the pop-
ulation living in the countryside. For many villagers, service in the army
constituted not only exposure to the horrors of war but also an escape from
geographic and social immobility. After the war, countless demobilized sol-
diers or cadres settled in new places or returned to their home communi-
ties as agents of change. These population movements evoked feelings of
bereavement and loss and an intense nostalgia for the home village (que
huong) that was inextricably mixed with memories of childhood (tuoi tho),
before adult worries and sorrows took away the innocence of youth. This
feeling of nostalgia is the stuff of poetry and novels, music and films, both
in Vietnam and in the Vietnamese diaspora. In contemporary literature,
one of the most poignant evocations of nostalgia and loss of innocence is
Bao Ninh’s novel The Sorrow of War; in cinema, Tran Anh Hung’s The
Scent of Green Papaya.
If literature and biography can by any measure be taken as a mirror of
society, then it is worthwhile to look at representative works from the liter-
Vietnam Ch 01 020–051 5/15/03 12:27 PM Page 31

one country, many journeys 31

ary canon in Vietnam. Vietnam’s most famous novel is Nguyen Du’s

Truyen Kieu (The Tale of Kieu), written in 1813 and comprising 3,250
verses in nom, Vietnam’s own character script. It tells the story, in
beautiful verse, of a young girl’s spiritual and geographic journey
through medieval China. The girl, Kieu, rescues her family from ruin
by sacrificing herself, giving up her true love. After a life’s journey with
a succession of husbands, lovers, and pimps, during which her spirit
remains pure, she finds her family and her first love again. This novel,
though set in China, has been embraced by generations of Vietnamese
as representing profoundly Vietnam’s cultural identity. Millions of
Vietnamese can recite verses from the novel. But why? Perhaps
because the novel tells a story of separation and alienation, of appro-
priation by strangers while preserving one’s own spirit. However, when
Kieu is finally reunited with her family and her first love, they cannot
simply pick up where they left off; as in The Sorrow of War, the past
cannot be redeemed, save in memory and nostalgia.7
Vietnam’s most famous and influential biography is that of Ho Chi
Minh, whose importance lies more in his exemplary life (tam guong)
than in his writings, which together constitute what Vietnamese call
“Ho Chi Minh thought” (tu tuong Ho Chi Minh). All Vietnamese are
familiar with the main narrative of his official biography, especially his
travels to the United States, France, the Soviet Union, and China.
Moreover, he adopted many different identities, literally traveling from
one identity to another, before finally becoming Ho Chi Minh—or Bac
Ho (Uncle Ho), as he is affectionately called. The image of Ho Chi
Minh as unmarried and childless, without family interests, makes it pos-
sible for everyone to see him as Bac Ho, Uncle Ho, the uncle of all of
Vietnam’s children. His portrait adorns many offices and homes, and in
temples and pagodas Uncle Ho is not only revered but already wor- These scenes illustrate episodes from
the most famous work of Vietnamese
shipped as one of the legendary heroes who have become mediators literature, The Tale of Kieu, by Nguyen
with the spirit world or even as a bodhisattva.8 Ho’s journey, then, has Du (1765–1820). His work marked an
important stage in the development of
many dimensions: geographic, temporal, political, ritual, and aesthetic. the Vietnamese language, and his por-
This very sketchy history tells us that Vietnam’s tortuous and event- trait of his heroine’s courageous struggle
against feudalism and the strictures of
ful history of struggle is as much a saga of travel as it is of continuity
Confucian society achieved great
and stability. popularity.
Vietnam Ch 01 020–051 5/15/03 12:27 PM Page 32

Praying at the Cao Dai Temple in Tay Ninh. Caodaism was founded in 1926, and its followers are concentrated in the southeast.
It is an eclectic mixture of Taoism, Buddhism, Confucianism, and indigenous beliefs, with some elements of Catholicism. Under
“the supreme saint,” the pantheon includes figures from world religions and also some historical figures such as Victor Hugo.
Vietnam Ch 01 020–051 5/15/03 12:27 PM Page 33

one country, many journeys 33

Culture, Religion, Politics

as embodied in the name indochina, Vietnam was influenced

by both the Indian and Chinese civilizations, but because of the long Chi-
nese occupation and China’s proximity, Vietnam adopted most of its major
cultural and political concepts from China. The word nam means “south,”
which situates Vietnam in relation to the cultural and political center,
China, the Middle Kingdom. Three major religious traditions found their
way to Vietnam from China: Buddhism, Confucianism, and Taoism.
Buddhism’s Four Truths teach that adherence to eight moral precepts of
perfection brings a gradual detachment from earthly suffering in successive
reincarnations. A decentralized religion, Buddhism is visible in Vietnam’s
hundreds—perhaps thousands—of pagodas, important centers of learning
inhabited and maintained by monks or nuns, who often meditate and
study. Lay people regularly visit pagodas to pray and acquire wisdom. Bud-
dhism was introduced to Vietnam from India in the third century C.E.; Zen
(Thien) Buddhism arrived from China around 580. When Vietnam won
independence in 938, Mahayana Buddhism, which offers broad possibil-
ities for salvation through the merciful intercession of bodhisattvas, became
the dominant religion and its temples the most important centers of learn-
ing. Elsewhere in Southeast Asia, Theravada Buddhism, which empha-
sizes a rigorous and solitary path to enlightenment, predominates.
Taoism is a philosophy and particular understanding of the world and
the cosmos rather than a religion per se. Lao Tzu, the founder, seems to
have lived in China in the sixth century b.c.e., but his teachings, known as
the Tao Te Ching, were written down about three centuries later. The Tao
(the Way, Dao in Vietnamese) deals with balance within the cosmos,
between nature and man, between mind and body, and especially between
the various forces or principles shaping the world. The complementary yin
and yang principles (in Vietnamese am and duong) have to be in balance
in order to find or create harmony. This harmony leads to spiritual and
physical health and well-being and affirms one’s place in the cosmos. Such
concepts are also important in traditional Asian medicine and acupunc-
ture, geomancy (widely known as feng shui, or phong thuy in Vietnamese),
astrology and fortune-telling, and martial arts.
Vietnam Ch 01 020–051 5/15/03 12:27 PM Page 34

34 oscar salemink

These two boys are being raised in a

Buddhist temple in Hue. When they
are older, they will choose between a
monk’s calling or lay life. Buddhism is
the predominant religion in Vietnam,
and its traditional festivals have been
revived.

A moral and political doctrine superimposed on ancient Chinese reli-

gious and social concepts about the relation between the celestial order
and the affairs of the world, Confucianism was established by Confucius,
who lived around 600 B.C.E. As a moral doctrine, Confucianism focused
on proper relationships in family, society, and the cosmos. Within fami-
lies, authority rested with male elders, and women had to subject them-
selves to the authority of their fathers, brothers, husbands, and, in old age,
sons. Filial piety and respect were also key Confucian values. As a political
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one country, many journeys 35

doctrine, Confucianism established the relationship between rulers and

subjects by emphasizing authority and respect, regulated and punctuated
by correct behavior and rituals. At the same time, Confucius emphasized
learning and wisdom as a condition for enlightened rule. Hanoi’s Temple
of Literature (Van Mieu), where the scholars and future mandarins of
Vietnam have taken their exams since the eleventh century, is dedicated
to Confucius.
During the Chinese occupation, Taoism and Confucianism were intro-
duced into Vietnam and existed alongside Buddhism. In this era, Thien
(Zen) Buddhism absorbed the mysticism of the Tao, emphasizing the indi-
vidual search for Buddha within oneself through meditation, withdrawal
from the world, and finally bliss. During the first centuries of Vietnam’s
independence from China, Buddhism was the dominant state doctrine
and developed in opposition to Confucianism, which as a moral and polit-
ical doctrine emphasized this-worldly virtues. With the development of the
Vietnamese state, the ruling elite gradually turned to Confucianism as the
moral and organizational basis for its regime, especially from the brief Chi-
nese occupation in the early fifteenth century until the French conquest in
the nineteenth century. Although Buddhism gradually lost its influence
over the ruling classes and even lost the favor of the kings, it retained strong
appeal for the largely rural population, who had little to expect in this life
from Confucian doctrine.
Despite the several religious traditions practiced in Vietnam, for the
large majority of the population distinctions between the various religions
and cults are not overly important. In theory, Buddha is venerated in the
temple (chua); Confucius and Confucian saints in van chi or mieu; kings
and national heroes in the temple (den); the tutelary spirits of the village in
the communal house (dinh); and the ancestors at an altar in the home. In
practice all these religions blend into one national brand characterized by
syncretism. This combination of religious traditions makes Vietnam very
different from the neighboring nations of Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, and
Burma, which all follow Theravada Buddhism from India. In Vietnam we
can easily imagine a state official who in the morning places offerings on
his ancestors’ altar at home, who attempts to uphold Confucian values of
respect and hierarchy in dealing with both his family and his office staff,
who seeks out a diviner to determine the propitious date for a new venture
Vietnam Ch 01 020–051 5/15/03 12:27 PM Page 36

36 oscar salemink

Catholicism, introduced by Por-

tuguese and Spanish missionaries in
the seventeenth century, has about
five million followers in Vietnam.
Here, a woman with a rosary takes
part in an Easter procession in a
small village on the Nam Dinh coast,
April 2000.

or a feng shui specialist for the location of a building, and visits the local
pagoda on evenings of the fifteenth day of the lunar month. In the same
vein, the portrait or bust of Ho Chi Minh will not only be in all government
offices and in many homes, but also in many temples and pagodas.
While Vietnam’s religious traditions were introduced by travelers, their
development has been predicated on continued contacts with other coun-
tries and communities where these religions are practiced. During the past
several centuries, a number of new and alien concepts were brought to Viet-
nam, some of which blended less well with the syncretistic mix in place.
In the seventeenth century Christianity was introduced to Vietnam by
Portuguese, Spanish, and French missionaries, who met with mixed suc-
cess. It seemed to temporarily gain a foothold when Pierre Pigneau de
Béhaine, Catholic bishop of Adran, supported the pretender to the throne,
Nguyen Anh, who became Emperor Gia Long, founder of the Nguyen
dynasty. Gia Long tolerated the fairly successful Catholic missionaries, but
his son and successor, Minh Mang, who reigned from 1820 to 1841, was less
indulgent toward the Catholic community, which he saw (correctly, as it
turned out) as a fifth column for French colonial designs on Southeast
Asia. During the piecemeal French conquest of Vietnam under his succes-
sors, the French indeed used the need to protect the Catholic minority as
Vietnam Ch 01 020–051 5/15/03 12:27 PM Page 37

one country, many journeys 37

an important pretext for incursion into Vietnam. This Catholic community

has continued to stand apart in Vietnamese society. The Diem regime,
allied with the United States in the early 1960s, was largely rooted in this
Catholic community, which constituted only 10 percent of the population,
a situation that resulted in significant Buddhist protests.9
Communism is another alien doctrine introduced into Vietnam. Al-
though an atheist doctrine that rejects religion as an ideology of oppression,
Communism shares a number of important aspects with religion: the
expectation of liberation from suffering, organizational machinery, and
devotion, including martyrdom. In actuality, the Vietnamese Communist
Party has learned to tolerate religious beliefs and practices, even among its
members, and has lately embraced a wide variety of religious practices as a
way to chart a road toward modernization via the market economy. Besides,
many Vietnamese point to similarities in Confucian and Marxist practice:
the reliance on doctrinal texts, the emphasis on literacy and education, the
bureaucratic nature of its governance, the idea of the perfectibility of peo-
ple (“New Socialist Man”).
Twice during its rule, the Communist Party attempted radical reform:
with the land reforms in the North from 1953 to 1955 and with the massive
collectivization of the economy after the reunification of the country in
1975. During these same years Marxist and like-minded scholars had a
lively debate about the nature of Vietnam’s society and its mode of produc-
tion and socioeconomic formation. Participants in this debate shared a
common belief in a unified national history—the idea that there was and is
one Vietnam, emanating from a center (Hanoi and, briefly, Hue). Keith
Taylor, however, convincingly debunked that notion by pointing out the
regionalism in Vietnam’s history, a regionalism that has been glossed over
by the unifying narrative.10 Taylor pointed to a number of decisive episodes
in Vietnam’s history that can be interpreted as a struggle for hegemony
between various regions in what is now Vietnam. In some cases, national
heroes like Le Loi, who liberated Vietnam from Chinese occupation in the
fifteenth century, or the Tay Son brothers, three peasant rebels who over-
threw the warring dynasties in the south and north and unified the country
in the late eighteenth century, came from very marginal places in the
mountains, not the typical Vietnamese heartland. Indeed, when Viet-
namese travel about the country, they are constantly asked where they come
Vietnam Ch 01 020–051 5/15/03 12:27 PM Page 38

A calligrapher creates special

requests and messages to the
spirits that people will pur-
chase and send up by burning
them at temples during holi-
days such as Tet.
Vietnam Ch 01 020–051 5/15/03 12:27 PM Page 39

one country, many journeys 39

from by people hoping to find a bond based on common regional roots. If

two people establish the existence of such shared roots, they bond in a way
that is otherwise somewhat uncommon among Vietnamese. If Taylor’s the-
sis is correct, then regionalism, and hence the journeys that bind regions,
are a permanent factor in Vietnamese society.

Doi Moi: Renovation, Reform, and Growth

one reason the radical centralizing reforms after 1953

and 1975 failed is that they did not take sufficient account of the hetero-
geneity of Vietnam’s population, though there are many other factors. After
reunification in 1975 collectivization resulted in a loss of productivity and a
breakdown in the distribution system in a country that was almost 80 per-
cent rural, bringing hunger to a large part of the population and demoral-
izing the most important resource for development: people. The swollen
cities in the south had lived off the war economy and were largely unpro-
ductive, while the economic policies of the new government initially did
very little to stimulate investment. On the contrary, the so-called bourgeois
class—including many ethnic Chinese in Saigon—was distrusted. Many
people deemed redundant and unproductive were sent to New Economic
Zones, where they faced a life of hardship. Many people who had been
affiliated with the former Saigon regime were sent to reeducation camps
for months or years, often reappearing with broken spirits. In many cases,
their potential to contribute productively and positively to Vietnam’s devel-
opment was overlooked and largely wasted. Moreover, a conflict with Demo-
cratic Cambodia under the Khmer Rouge degenerated into war by late
1978. In 1979 conflict with China not only brought further death and
destruction but also forced an impoverished Vietnam to maintain one of
the largest standing armies in Asia, absorbing millions of healthy young
men and enormous resources in the process.
General poverty and extreme hardship, the lack of opportunity to over-
come hardship with one’s own resources in the collectivized economy, and
disaffection among many who were affiliated with the former regime caused
hundreds of thousands of people to take the desperate step of leaving the
country by boat. Leaving behind everything and everybody, people spent
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40 oscar salemink

significant sums to get into small, rickety boats, risking storms, starvation,
and pirates, in the hope—fanned by radio stations outside Vietnam—of
being picked up and accepted by a Western country. Many perished in the
flight. In the 1980s such escape was replaced by the Orderly Departure Pro-
gram, which provided eligible people with the opportunity to emigrate,
supervised by international organizations and with the consent of the Viet-
namese state. The result is a diaspora of millions of Vietnamese in such
countries as the United States, Canada, Australia, France, and other coun-
tries in Western Europe. For Vietnam these events initially meant an enor-
mous brain drain and destruction of human capital, but in the 1990s the
economic significance of the overseas Vietnamese community came to be
seen in a positive light. First, the remittances to family members and rela-
tives in Vietnam amount to many billions of dollars each year, much more
than foreign investment and international aid. Second, overseas Vietnamese
spearhead foreign investment, perhaps not so much in monetary terms, but
in providing the connections and know-how to do business in Vietnam.
In the early 1980s, when some regional leaders realized that continued
collectivization would ruin the country, they started to experiment with sys-
tems allowing for a degree of private farming. After some successful experi-
ments in the early 1980s, the champion of these local reforms, southern
leader Nguyen Van Linh, became the secretary-general of the Communist
Party. This paved the way to expansion, beginning in 1986, of local reforms,
effectively stopping the centralizing forces by giving individual households
the right to enjoy the fruits of their crops and labor and to use and manage
their land on a long-term basis. A new, more liberal foreign investment law
in 1987 opened the door to foreign investment and, consequently, to a wide
range of contacts with the region and the world. As a result, Vietnam saw
the slow introduction of economic reforms and the liberalization of the
industrial and service sectors. This process of comprehensive market and
other reforms is called Doi Moi, or Renovation, a term retaining some rev-
olutionary rhetoric. The collapse of the Eastern European Communist
bloc in 1989 and of the Soviet Union in the early 1990s had the dual effect
of leaving Vietnam as one of the few remaining Communist countries and
of abruptly ending the Cold War, facilitating the entry of Vietnam into
regional and international bodies. An important benchmark of regional
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one country, many journeys 41

In the mid 1990s billboards advertis-

ing international companies line the
integration was Vietnam’s admission in 1995 to ASEAN (the Association of
urban landscape of crowded Ho Chi
Southeast Asian Nations), which was originally set up in 1967 as an anti- Minh City (formerly Saigon), the
Communist alliance. An important benchmark of international integration main center of finance, industry,
and tourism in the south.
and cooperation was the signing of a comprehensive trade agreement with
the United States, thus completing the normalization of U.S.–Vietnam
relations begun in 1993 under President Clinton’s leadership and paving
the way for Vietnamese access to the World Trade Organization. To the
outside world, Vietnam is no longer simply the site of a war but a “normal”
country with a market economy and a society facing the opportunities and
challenges of globalization.
Economic and social changes do not mean that Vietnam has completely
given up on its socialist ambitions. Certainly at a rhetorical level, those
ambitions remain. Slogans used in everyday life and posted everywhere
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42 oscar salemink

A cooperative pig farm in Dien Ban

district, Quang Nam province, 1983.
The economic era of collectivization
and centralized planning changed in
1986 with the advent of Doi Moi
(Renovation), the introduction of a
limited free market and the corpora-
tization of many state industries.

indicate that Vietnam is not implementing liberal capitalist reforms but is

creating a “socialist market economy.” The regime justifies its departure
from orthodox socialism by promising that a socialist Vietnam will be fully
industrialized and modernized by the year 2020. By then, Vietnam will be,
as the slogans say, a “rich country, have a just and equal society, and its citi-
zens will be civilized people.” Most significantly, Vietnam strives to build
“an advanced culture imbued with national identity.” This rhetoric is
important because in the eyes of many, industrialization and moderniza-
tion essentially mean Westernization. Official support for expressions of
national culture and conservation of heritage are seen to reinforce Viet-
nam’s sovereignty as a counterweight to the seductions of the West.

The State of Vietnam’s Population

vietnam is a densely populated country, with over 76 million

people living on 330,000 square kilometers, an area about the size of the
state of New Mexico. The population density is around 230 per square kilo-
meter (similar to that of the United Kingdom), which is high for a country
with a largely rural population and agrarian economy. The population is
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one country, many journeys 43

An early-twentieth-century view of
the backbreaking work of transplant-
diverse, with fifty-three officially recognized ethnic minorities speaking per- ing rice in water in southern Vietnam.
haps more than a hundred languages, and among the majority Kinh (ethnic Rice, which is still planted in this way,
remains the most important crop in
Viet) population many regional differences obtain.11 Traditionally the the country.
Kinh—85 percent of the population—practice lowland wet-rice cultivation,
which requires the construction and maintenance of elaborate irrigation
works. Since the 1950s, however, many Kinh have migrated and settled in
the midlands and uplands of Vietnam, the traditional abode of most ethnic
minority groups. These highlands, almost three-quarters of Vietnam’s land
area, currently contain about one-third of the population—around 25 mil-
lion—of whom almost 10 million can be classified as members of an ethnic
minority. The modes of subsistence of these minority groups are extremely
diverse but often entail some combination of wet-rice cultivation, perma-
nent rain-fed cultivation, rotational or itinerant shifting cultivation, fruit
orchards and cash crops, livestock, hunting, fishing, and harvesting of tim-
ber and other forest products.
Some 50 million people, then, are living in the lowlands of the Red
River Delta, Mekong Delta, and the smaller delta pockets along the east-
ern seaboard. Despite the rapid growth of the cities in recent years and the
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44 oscar salemink

Coffee is one of the cash crops of the

country, with farms concentrated in
the Central Highlands. Members of
the Ede minority, like this woman,
are involved in coffee production.

massive influx of migrants, over 70 percent of Vietnam’s population still

lives in the rural areas—a high proportion compared with other countries
in the region and developing nations elsewhere. Overall, more than half of
Vietnam’s entire population is engaged in agriculture, often as smallhold-
ers. The average size of Vietnam’s smallholder farms in the lowlands is less
than one hectare, and agriculture is very intensive. Despite its limited agri-
cultural land, during the Doi Moi era Vietnam has become a major player
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one country, many journeys 45

in the world markets for rice (second global rice exporter in 2000) and cof-
fee (second global coffee exporter in 2000), thereby subjecting itself to the
vagaries of the global market.
With the continued reforms in the 1990s, farmers were allowed to buy
and sell land (officially, they were granted long-term land use rights), and as
a result social and economic differentiation is becoming increasingly mani-
fest. Poor households, often lacking labor or knowledge and skills, become
indebted because of a medical or natural calamity or lack of labor and must
sell off their land, a challenge plaguing the many female-headed house-
holds in Vietnam. Many ethnic minority farmers in the Mekong Delta and
the Central Highlands lack the skills to compete in the market and conse-
quently lose their land, often because of indebtedness to loan sharks. The
emphasis on cash crops creates economic opportunities but can make farm-
ers more vulnerable. Coffee cultivation attracted hundreds of thousands of
migrants from northern Vietnam to the Central Highlands, who cleared
hundreds of thousands of hectares of forest to establish coffee gardens. But
the drop in the price of coffee in the world market in the 1990s, especially
the lower robusta quality grown in Vietnam, bankrupted thousands of small-
holding coffee farmers, leading the government to develop a plan to convert
one-third of the total coffee acreage in Vietnam.
Apart from large-scale and smallholder agriculture, other important eco-
nomic activities in the rural areas are animal husbandry, fisheries, forestry,
and handicrafts. Many farmers (i.e., the women) are raising pigs, cows, and
poultry, for a variety of purposes but mostly to earn money in the local mar-
ket. For farming households fish, especially sweetwater fish caught in rice
fields, ponds, streams, and rivers, is a more important source of protein than
meat. With the development of more powerful fishing boats and modern
cooling and distribution systems, many marine fisheries have grown to com-
mercial levels, catering to urban and international markets. Shrimp farming
is a lucrative sideline to this trade.
Forestry is especially strong in the highlands, where most of the remain-
ing forests are located. The forestry sector was slower to decentralize than
the agricultural sector, partly because timber harvesting was—and is—
more lucrative and partly because of the growing concern about the rapid
rate of deforestation and concomitant degradation of land and other
resources. These two considerations combined to slow down the allocation
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46 oscar salemink

Fishing is one of Vietnam’s primary

industries, and fish have traditionally
provided a major source of protein in
the Vietnamese diet. Fishing with
beach seines, as seen here in May
2000 at Nam Dinh, dominated in the
1960s and 1970s but by 2000 was
regarded as a side activity for farmers
on the coast, while fishing from small
boats has become more common.

of forest land to individual households or groups of households, as was

done with agricultural land. In the context of the many foreign-funded for-
est protection and reforestation schemes, allocating the right to protect for-
est land for a fee and for certain limited harvesting rights is as far as the
government wishes to go.
Handicrafts are an important source of income for many households,
especially during slack seasons or through employment of otherwise unpro-
ductive labor, like the elderly. Handicrafts tend to be concentrated in craft
villages that specialize in particular goods, like pottery (Bat Trang pottery
village near Hanoi is famous; see chapter 6), basketry, carpentry, rattan and
bamboo products, lacquer products, silk production and weaving, bronze
casting, and paper and printing. In the 1990s, the export and general
turnover in the handicraft sector has grown considerably, attracting more
attention as a viable income-earner.
In the cities the industry and service sectors are quickly gaining ground,
with annual two-digit growth rates. Vietnam’s industrial exports have grown
immensely since the 1980s, despite the Asian financial crisis of 1997. With
its low GDP—somewhat more than $400 per capita, up from $200 in the
1980s—and consequent low wages, Vietnam is an attractive manufacturing
base, especially for such capital-extensive and labor-intensive industries as
the garment sector, which employs tens of thousands of young women and
men from the countryside in factories in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly
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one country, many journeys 47

The accelerated harvesting of wood

has led to the denuding and shrinking
of the country’s forests, especially in
the Central Highlands. These workers
are in an Ede area in Dak Lak
province, 2000.

Saigon), Hanoi, Bien Hoa, Can Tho, Vung Tau, Da Nang, and Hai Phong.
The alleged abuses in the factories that produce for brand names like Nike
have led to increased international scrutiny of the subcontracting system
through which multinationals operate their production systems. Foreign
and domestic investors tend to concentrate on the bigger cities that meet
the logistical requirements of export production, and as a result the stan-
dard of living in these cities has risen dramatically since 1985. With the ris-
ing standard of living, these cities have diversified their economies, starting
with their industrial base and their service sector, followed by their infra-
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48 oscar salemink

structure and educational and health facilities. A new class of nouveaux

riches and a new middle class display substantial wealth, considering it
must have been accumulated in a relatively short period of time. The cities
abound in cars and motorbikes, fancy houses and furnishings, fashionable
clothes and personal gadgets like cell phones, and entertainment. More
recently, people have been sending their children overseas to study.
In sharp contrast to this emerging upper and middle class stand the
many people who are part of the so-called informal sector, the people who
often bridge countryside and city. Every morning starting at two o’clock,
women on bicycles bring flowers into Hanoi shops and markets from the
surrounding villages, quietly chatting as they pedal along. And later in the
morning other women in the open-air markets sell their flowers to middle-
men who take the flowers to the shops. The informal sector can include
almost anything—peddling food, newspapers, souvenirs, clothes, or ciga-
rettes on the sidewalks or streets; selling fresh produce like vegetables, fruit,
and flowers; picking up garbage and seeking out what can be profitably
recycled; providing services ranging from transport on motorbikes and bicy-
cle repairs to casual labor and sex. Informal work is not always low paid or
badly regarded; for instance, many teachers and university professors con-
duct classes after hours for extra money. The distinctive feature of this sec-
tor is that it is not formally organized and that it escapes formal and official
regulation. It can be very visible out on the street—as any visitor from a
Western country can see—but it is not very visible to an administrative
gaze. For many people, especially women, the informal sector provides a
relatively secure, convenient, and solid income while allowing them to pre-
serve their autonomy. Research into the informal sector has revealed that
women often value the fact that they control their own time and thus can
combine informal work with child care more easily than formal employ-
ment would allow.
Children are another ubiquitous sight in Vietnam’s streets, a sure sign
that the population is growing fast. Their presence outside is also a sign that
the education system is overloaded, as many schools operate in shifts to
accommodate all the students. Although many in the West think of Viet-
nam as a country tainted by war, most Vietnamese were born after 1975.
They know about the French and American wars only from hearsay, from
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one country, many journeys 49

A woman on her way to market in

stories told by adults, or as history that they learn from books and films. the Mekong Delta, one of the richest
agricultural regions of the country for
Much like young people in North America and Europe in the 1960s who such crops as rice, coconuts, fruit,
were not much interested in looking back at World War II, Vietnam’s and sugarcane.

young people pursue interests that differ sharply from those of their parents.
In a country that values formal education and prides itself on a high literacy
rate (though the official figures of 85 percent may be a bit inflated), young
people’s first priority is to succeed at school. Students study hard and take
extra classes in order to pass the entrance exams for the universities of their
choice. For them and their parents, admission to a good university is a tan-
gible sign of social success and a passport to a future career. Given the
amount of time and money it takes to succeed in the ever more commer-
cialized educational sector, with paid extra classes, fees, and private
schools, the number of dropouts is considerable,12 and there is a sharp
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50 oscar salemink

social differentiation, with well-to-do urban citizens having a marked

advantage. The second priority for contemporary Vietnamese youth is hav-
ing fun, and young people complain about the lack of entertainment,
though this is slowly changing in the big cities. Teenagers can be seen
hanging out on the streets, like their Euro-American counterparts, experi-
menting and taking risks. Many experiment with sex, a situation that has
led to one of the world’s highest abortion rates for unmarried women,13 and
according to regular reports in the Vietnamese press, some experiment with
drugs, a growing problem in high schools, colleges, and universities.
To limit population growth and be able to provide higher-quality serv-
ices to fewer people, Vietnam implemented a rigorous birth control pro-
gram in the 1990s, putting pressure on parents through a system of positive
stimuli and fines to limit their number of children to two. Although this
program has been praised by the United Nations Population Fund as effec-
tive in curtailing the population growth on a national scale, it has not been
as effective in enhancing the reproductive rights of individual women.
Partly as a consequence of postwar demographics, women are still a major-
ity in Vietnam, rendering their position more precarious. Despite the influ-
ence of patriarchal Confucian morals, however, many observers state that
gender relations in Vietnam resemble those of Southeast Asia rather than
China; women are not as overtly subservient as in China and play a pivotal
role in the household and in the household economy, being the ones who
hold the purse strings. In general, women have comparatively good educa-
tional opportunities and are not formally barred from particular profes-
sions; in addition, the overall economic improvement during Doi Moi has
created better work conditions and more opportunities for employment for
many women, though the proportion of women in leadership positions is
still very low.14
Despite progressive legislation and the activities of organizations like the
Vietnam Women’s Union and the National Commission for the Advance-
ment of Women, several issues surfaced in the late 1990s that seem to indi-
cate a downward trend for women, though perhaps they have only become
more visible. I will mention two. Since the late 1990s it has become appar-
ent that domestic violence persists. The incidence of wife beating remains
high and is one of the major causes of divorce.15 Another issue is ongoing
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one country, many journeys 51

trafficking in girls and women, often across borders. Girls and women,
tricked by promises of employment or marriage, tend to end up as sex work-
ers in brothels in Cambodia or Thailand or find themselves married to
older men in Taiwan or China and reduced to the status of domestic ser-
vants, almost like slaves.16 Measures are being taken by the Vietnamese
authorities and nongovernmental organizations to counter these practices.

Conclusion

vietnam, a country that struggles with many of the same chal-

lenges that face other countries today, including drugs, generation gaps,
and fears of globalization, has been shaped by myriad movements in both
space and time, ones involving the body, the mind, and the spirit. At the
end of the twentieth century, the international image of Vietnam was col-
ored by just a few of these journeys: the journey of American soldiers to
Vietnam to fight against perceived Communist threats to freedom emanat-
ing from China and the Soviet Union, the hasty departure of these Ameri-
can soldiers, and the exodus of the refugees known as boat people. Although
this dominant image is shaped by important contemporary events, it is far
from hegemonic; indeed, when judged against the thousands of years of
Vietnamese history, against the relations and movements that have been
occurring for millennia, these events are but a tiny mark on Vietnam’s
journey through time.