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Herbal Cosmetics: Used for Skin and Hair

Kumar Sumit1*, Swarankar Vivek1, Sharma Sujata1, Baldi Ashish1
Abstracts: The concept of beauty and cosmetics is as ancient as mankind and civilization. Women are obsessed with looking
beautiful. So, they use various beauty products that have herbs to look charming and young. Indian herbs and its significance are
popular worldwide. An herbal cosmetic have growing demand in the world market and is an invaluable gift of nature. Herbal
formulations always have attracted considerable attention because of their good activity and comparatively lesser or nil side
effects with synthetic drugs. Herbs and spices have been used in maintaining and enhancing human beauty. Indian women have
long used herbs such as Sandalwood and Turmeric for skin care, Henna to color the hair, palms and soles; and natural oils to
perfume their bodies. Not too long ago, elaborate herbal beauty treatments were carried out in the royal palaces of India to
heighten sensual appeal and maintain general hygiene. The herbal cosmetics manufactured and used commonly for daily
purpose include herbal face wash, herbal conditioner, herbal soap, herbal shampoo etc. The industry is now focusing on the
growing segment with a vast scope of manifold expansion in coming years. Herbal cosmetics are defined as the beauty products
which posses desirable physiological activity such as healing, smoothing appearance, enhancing and conditioning properties
because of herbal ingredient. Here we reported the introduction, classification, common herbs used in cosmetics.

INTRODUCTION nature compiled in the ayurveda. The science of ayurveda

The word cosmetic was derived from the Greek word had utilized many herbs and floras to make cosmetics for
“kosm tikos” meaning having the power, arrange, skill in beautification and protection from external affects 10. The
decorating 1. The origin of cosmetics forms a continuous natural content in the botanicals does not cause any side
narrative throughout the history of man as they developed. effects on the human body; instead enrich the body with
The man in prehistoric times 3000BC used colours for nutrients and other useful minerals 11. The cosmetics,
decoration to attract the animals that he wished to hunt according to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act is defined as
and also the man survived attack from the enemy by articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or
colouring his skin and adorned his body for protection to sprayed on, introduced into or otherwise applied to the
provoke fear in an enemy (whether man or animal) 2. The human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying,
origin of cosmetics were associated with hunting, fighting, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance12. The
religion and superstition and later associated with cosmetic does not come under the preview of drug license.
medicine 3. The herbal cosmetics are the preparations containing
Herbal Cosmetics, here in after referred as Products, are phytochemical from a variety of botanical sources, which
formulated, using various permissible cosmetic ingredients influences the functions of skin and provide nutrients
to form the base in which one or more herbal ingredients necessary for the healthy skin or hair 13. The natural herbs
are used to provide defined cosmetic benefits only, shall be and their products when used for their aromatic value in
called as “Herbal Cosmetics 4”. cosmetic preparation are termed as herbal cosmetics 14.
Beginning 1990's cosmetic manufacturer adapted a There is common belief that chemical based cosmetics are
term 'cosmeceuticals' to describe the OTC skin care harmful to the skin and an increased awareness among
products that claims therapeutic benefit by addition of consumers for herbal products triggered the demand for
plant based active ingredient such as alpha-hydroxy natural products and natural extracts in cosmetics
acid, retinoic acid, ascorbic acid and coenzyme Q10 5. preparations15.The increased demand for the natural
These active ingredients serves many purposes viz. product has created new avenues in cosmeceutical market.
increase in skin elasticity, delay in skin aging by The Drug and Cosmetics Act specify that herbs and
reducing the wrinkles, protection against UV radiation essential oils used in cosmetics must not claim to penetrate
by antioxidant property and to check degradation of beyond the surface layers of the skin nor should have any
collagen respectively 6. therapeutic effect 16. The legal requirement and the
The skin and hair beauty of individuals depends on the regulatory procedures for herbal cosmetics are same as
health, habits, routine job, climatic conditions and that for other chemical ingredients used in cosmetic
maintenance7. The skin due to excessive exposure to heat formulations 17.
will dehydrate during summer and causes wrinkle, freckles, The requirements for the basic skin care:
blemishes, pigmentation and sunburns. The extreme winter x Cleansing agent: which remove the dust, dead cells and
cause damages to the skin in the form of cracks, cuts, dirt that chokes the pores on the skin. Some of the
maceration and infections8. The skin diseases are common common cleansers include vegetable oils like coconut,
among all age groups and can be due to exposure towards sesame and palm oil 18.
microbes, chemical agents, biological toxin present in the x Toners: The toners help to tighten the skin and keep it
environment, and also to some extend due to malnutrition9. from being exposed to many of the toxins that are
The only factor they had to rely on was the knowledge of floating in the air or other environmental pollutants.
Some of the herbs used as toners are witch hazel,
1Department of Quality Assurance, I. S. F. College of Pharmacy, Moga-
geranium, sage, lemon, ivy burdock and essential oils19.
142001, Punjab, India.
E-mail: [email protected]
x Moisturizing: The moisturizing helps the skin to become
*Corresponding author soft and supple. Moisturizing shows a healthy glow and

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Table 1: Skin Types and their Care

Suitable Skin Care

Skin Type Features
Herbal Essential oils
Chamomile, Fennel,
Has even tone, soft, smooth texture, no Pomegranate leaves
Geranium, Lavender,
Normal visible pores or blemishes and no greasy juice, Herbal Face Pack,
Lemon, Rose, Sandal Wood,
patches or flaky areas. Gingili Oil
Patchouli.
Low level of sebum and prone to Chamomile, Fennel,
Aloe Vera, Olive Oil,
sensitivity. Has a parched look, feels Geranium,Lavender,
Dry Calendula
“tight. Chapping and cracking are signs of Lemon,Rose, Sandal Wood
Comfrey
extremely dry, dehydrated skin. Patchouli, Almond, Avocado
Aloe Vera, Burdock Root
Shiny, thick and dull coloured Chronically Bergamot, Cypress
chamomile Horsetail, Oat Straw,
oily skin has coarse pores and pimples Frankincense Geranium,
Oily Thyme, Lavender, Lemon Grass,
and other embarrassing blemishes. Prone juniper, Lavender, Lemon,
Liquorice, Rose Buds, Witch
to black heads Sage Evening Primrose
Hazel
Some parts of your face are dry or flaky,
Witch Hazel, Menthol,
while the center part of your face, nose, Citrus Oils, Jasmine
Combination Aloe Vera, Turmeric,
chin, and forehead (called the T- zone) is Oil, Sandal Wood Oil
Wheat Germ, Sweet Flag
oily.

Table 2: Special Skin Problems and Herbal Remedies

S. No. Skin Problem Features Remedies

Application of oils of St.John Wort, Olive Oil or
Rough texture which sometimes causes the Mashed Avocado after bathing or massaging
1. Chapped Skin
skin to crack with warm Olive Oil, Mustard or Coconut Oil
half an hour before bathing
Carrot Juice along with a mixture of egg white
2. Withered Skin Very tough texture, full of wrinkles
and honey
No color look, skin becomes lusterless and
3. Sallow Skin Inclusion of Vitamin B in diet.
shows lack of vitality
React quickly to both heat and cold.
Sunburns and wind burns occur easily. Use of essential oil of Chamomile, Lavender
4. Sensitive Skin
Skins become dry delicate and prone to Neroli, Rose and Sandal Wood Oil.
allergic reactions.
Pockets of infection that manifest as red
5. Acne Usage of Red Sanda Wood Oil.
sores, boils and pimples.

Table 3: List of Plants with Cosmetic Application for Skin Care

Scientific Name Common Name Part Uses Uses

Acarus calamus (Araceae) Sweet flag, Rhizome Aromatic, Dusting powders, Skin lotions
Alhagi camelorum (Leguminosae) Jawasa Leaves Skin disorders
Allium sativum (Liliaceae) Garlic Bulb Promotes skin healing, Antibacterial
Aloe vera (Liliaceae) Aloe vera Leaf Moisturizer, Sun screen, Emollient
Alpinia galangal (Zingiberaceae) Galanga Rhizome Aromatic, Dusting powders
Avena sativa (Gramineae) Oat Fruit Moisturizer, Skin tonic
Azadiracta indica(Meliaceae) Neem Leaf Antiseptic, reduce dark spots, Antibacterial
Bauhinia racemosa (Leguminosae) Kanchivala Bark and leaves Skin disorders
Calendula ofjicinalis (Compositae) Marigold Flower Skin care, Anti-inflammatory, Antiseptic Creams.
Centella asiatica (Apiaceae) Brahmi Plant Wound healing, Reduce Stretch marks
Mesua ferrea (Guttiferae) Cobras saffron Flower Astringent
Panax ginseng (Araliaceae) Ginseng Root Stimulate blood flow to skin
Zizyphus jujube (Rhamnaceae) Zizyphus Fruit Skin Care
Zingiber zerumbet (Zingiberaceae) Zamabad Rhizomes Skin Care

are less prone to aging 20. Some of the herbal x Cosmetics for enhancing the appearance of facial skin
moisturizers include vegetable glycerin, sorbitol, rose x Cosmetics for hair growth and care
water, jojoba oil, aloe vera and iris 21. x Cosmetics for skin care, especially in teenager22 (acne,
pimples and sustaining)
Herbal Cosmetics Can Be Grouped Into Following Major x Shampoos, soaps, powders and perfumery, etc.
Categories x Miscellaneous products

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Indian Extracts for Herbal Cosmetics leaves are appetizer, cholagogue, depurative, digestive,
Herbs play a significant role, especially in modem imes, diuretic, hypoglycaemic, laxative and tonic 33. It favors
when the damaging effects of food processing and over- blood circulation by making blood more fluid and allowing
medication have assumed alarming proportions 23. They are it a better travel through vein and arteries.
now being increasingly cosmetics, foods and teas, as well as
alternative medicines. The growing interest in herbs is a part Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum)
of the movement towards change in life-styles 24. This Holy basil, called Tulsi in India, is ubiquitous in Hindu
movement is based on the belief that the plants have a vast tradition. Perhaps its role as a healing herb was
potential for their use as a curative medicine. instrumental in its "sacred" implication 34.

Oat (Avena sativa) Ghritkumar (Aloe vera)

It is a species of cereal grain grown for its seed, which is It is a most ingenious mixture of an antibiotic, an astringent
known by the same name (usually in the plural, unlike coagulating agent, a pain inhibitor and a growth stimulator
other grains) 25. Oats are not only consumed for nutritional (also called a "wound hormone"), whose function is to
purposes, but are also recognized as possessing healing and accelerate the healing of injured surfaces 35. It is used for
soothing properties. The gentle process used to extract oat pain relief and healing of 'hemorrhoids, applied externally
oil from the whole oat kernels ensures that the biological and internally it‟s also used for sunburn, scratch and a
value remains unaltered. Oat oil is rich in antioxidants, cleansing purge for the body or skin. It is an aid to growing
essential fatty acids and natural emollients26. Oat oil is used new tissue and alleviating the advance of skin cancer
in many lotions, creams, facial oils, salves and balms since caused by the sun 36.
its properties add unique benefits.
Multani Mitts (Fullers Earth)
Marigold (Calendula officinalis) It is Mother Nature's own baby powder 37. Clay was one of
Calendula officinalis is a plant known as pot marigold. It the earliest substances to be used as a beauty mask to draw
should not be confused with other types of plants more oils from the skin, natural moisturizers for hairs, teeth,
commonly known as marigold, such as those in the gums and hair, To remove pimple marks, treating sunburn,
genus Tagetes 27. A number of ingredients used in helps unclog pores, to cleanse the skin of flakes and dirt 38.
cosmetics and personal care products are made
from Calendula officinalis, including an extract of the whole Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)
plant (Calendula officinalis Extract) the flowers, flower Matricaria chamomilla, known as scented mayweed
extract and flower oil (Calendula officinalis Flower Extract, or German chamomile (also spelled camomile), is an annual
Calendula officinalis Flower Oil) and the seed oil (Calendula plant of the composite family Asteraceae 39. Chamomile is
officinalis Seed Oil) 28. Of the Calendula-derived ingredients, also used cosmetically, primarily to make a rinse for blonde
the flower extracts are the most commonly used in hair and as a yellow dye for fabrics 40.
cosmetics and personal care products.
Raktachandan
Wild Cherry Bark (Prunus serotina Bark) This was another natural component available in attractive
Wild cherry bark is the bark of Prunus serotina29. Wild color and hence was used as fresh, red bindi / tika (dot) on
Cherry Bark has properties that makes the hair smooth, the forehead 41.
silky, and adds body to the hair. The dried stem bark of
Prunus serotina, collected in autumn in North America. Aloe vera
Used in lipsticks and cherry flavorings for food and With the traits that prevent aging and regenerate growth of
medicines 30. Also used as a sedative and expectorant cells this was used as an essential component to keep
medicinally oneself fit, protect the skin 42, prevents and heals skin
irritations 43.
Chicory (Cichorium intybus)
Chicory, Cichorium intybus, is somewhat Chandan and Vertiver (Usheer)
woody, perennial herbaceous plant usually with bright It was used as scrubs and face packs that were applied on
blue flowers, rarely white or pink 31. It was believed that face and whole body to remove dead cells, regenerate
the plant could purify the blood and liver, while others growth of new cells and give a young look 44.
have relied on the herb for its power to cure passions of the
heart. Chicory continues to be a popular herbal remedy due Haldi (Turmeric)
to its healing effects on several ailments32. Chicory is taken It was used as a face pack along with usheer (vertiver) and
internally for loss of appetite, jaundice, gallstones, gout and also as an antiseptic 45.
rheumatism. In addition, the leaves of chicory may also be
used as compresses to be applied externally to ease skin Medicinal Herbs used in Cosmetics
inflammations and swellings. As a mild diuretic, it increases The medicinal herb mentioned in ayurveda by
the elimination of fluid from the body, leading to its use as a experienced sages basically state that the function of
treatment for rheumatism and gout. The root and the ayurvedic herbs is to purify blood and eliminate vitiated

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doshas (vata, pitta, kapha) from the body as they are x Throughout the world, herbal medicine has provided
mainly responsible for skin disorders and other diseases many of the most potent medicines to the vast arsenal
46. Among the written information on ayurveda like in of drugs available to modern medical science, both in
Charakh Samhita, the sage Charakh stated numerous crude form and as a pure chemical upon which modern
medicinal plants in Varnya Kashaya. The herbs mentioned medicines are structured 55.
can be used to obtain glowing complexion. Various herbs
for which description and usage can be found in ayurvedic Limitations of Herbal Medicines
inscriptions are chandana, Nagkeshara, Padmak, Khus, Like any other branch of science and technology,
Yashtimadhu, Manjistha, Sariva, Payasya, Seta (shweta present scenario of herbal medicine has its own
durva), Lata (shyama durva) 47. There is also the mention limitations arising out of its own technical constituents.
of various herbs from Kushthagna Mahakashaya that are The prominent limitations of herbal medicines can be
effective curatives for skin disorders are Khadira, Abhaya, summarized as follow 56:
Amalaki, Haridra, Bhallataka, Saptaparna, Aragvadha,
Karavira, Vidanga, Jati. Like the notifications of charakh Dry Skin Treatment
and other sages, Sushrut said that Eladi Gana contains,-Ela, Coconut oil
tagar, kusstha, jatamansi, tvak, dhmamaka, patra, Coconut oil comes from the fruit or seed of the coconut
nagkeshar, priyangu, harenuka, vyaghranakha, shukti, palm tree Cocos nucifera, family Arecaceae. The melting
stouneyaka, choraka, shriveshta, khus, goggol, sarjarasa, point of coconut oil is 24 to 25°C (75-76°F) and thus it can
turushka, kundaru, agaru, ushira, devdaru, keshara, and be used easily in both liquid and solid forms and is often
padmakeshara 48. All these herbs can eliminate toxins from used in cooking and baking 57. Coconut oil is excellent as a
the body, clear the complexion that leads to a glow on the skin moisturizer and softener. A study shows that extra
skin and alleviates puritus, kusstha and boils (Table 2 and virgin coconut oil is effective and safe when used as a
Table 3). moisturizer, with absence of adverse reactions. (3) A study
found that coconut oil helped prevent protein loss from the
The Benefits of Herbs May include the Following wet combing of hair when used for fourteen hours 58.
x Enhance physical and mental well-being
x Strengthen the immune system Sunflower Oil
x Detoxification It is the non-volatile oil expressed from sunflower seeds
x Aid in sleeping, digestion obtained from Helianthus annuus, family Asteraceae.
x Increase stamina and reduce fatigue etc. Sunflower oil contains lecithin, tocopherols, carotenoids
Herbal products in cosmetics or herb in cosmetics can and waxes. In cosmetics, it has smoothing properties and is
also be referred as botanical origin products in cosmetics considered noncomedogenic 59.
49. According to the Drugs and Cosmetics Act 1940

cosmetics may be defined as, any substance intended to be Aloe

rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or otherwise applied to human A native of southern Africa, the aloe vera plant has fleshy
being for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness spiny-toothed leaves and red or yellow flowers 60. It is an
50. Cosmeceuticals are the cosmetic products which contain ingredient in many cosmetics because it heals moisturizes,
biologically active principles or ingredients of plant origin and softens skin. Simply cut one of the aloe vera leaves to
having effect on user or they are combination product of easily extract the soothing gel.
cosmetics and pharmaceuticals intended to enhance the
health and beauty of skin 51. Herbal cosmetics are defined Anti-Aging Treatment
as the beauty products which posses desirable Golden Root
physiological activity such as healing, smoothing Rhodiola rosea (Roseroot, Aaron's rod), is a plant in the
appearance, enhancing and conditioning properties Crassulaceae family that grows in cold regions of the world.
because of herbal ingredient 52 (Table 3). The Rhodiola root has long been used in the traditional
medical systems in Europe and Asia to increase an
Advantages of Herbal Medicine organism’s resistance to physicalstress , currently; it is
x Herbal medicine have long history of use and better widely thought to have antioxidative properties 61.
patient tolerance as well as acceptance.
x Medicinal plants have a renewable source, which is our Carrot
only hope for sustainable supplies of cheaper medicines It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota belonging to
for the world growing population 53. family Apiaceae. .It is a valuable herb since ages as it is rich
x Availability of medicinal plants is not a problem natural source of Vitamin A along with other essential
especially in developing countries like India having rich vitamins. Carrot seed oil is indicated for anti-aging,
agro-climatic, cultural and ethnic biodiversity. revitalizing and rejuvenating 62. As it promotes the
x The cultivation and processing of medicinal herbs and formation of new cells and helps in reducing wrinkles. It
herbal products is environmental friendly 54. acts as Natural toner and rejuvenator for the skin.
x Prolong and apparently uneventful use of herbal
medicines may offer testimony of their safety and efficacy. Ginkgo

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Ginkgo comes from the ginkgo tree, Ginkgo biloba belongs

to family Ginkgoaceae, which grows to a huge size. It is best Almond Oil
known, as a circulatory tonic, in particular for The almond oil is obtained from Prunus dulcis. The almond
strengthening the tiny little capillaries to all the organs, but oil basically contains about 78% of this fat. This oil contains
especially to the brain63. The capillaries become more very small amounts of super-unsaturated Omega-3
flexible and as a result more oxygen is delivered to the essential fatty acids 75. It proves to be very nourishing, and
brain and eyes (to protect against degenerative eye softens and strengthens the hair 76. The almond oil also
diseases like macular degeneration),so important as we proves to be a very good cleansing agent. Almond oil has
age. Ginkgo also protects the nervous system and fights been used for many centuries, even before it's spread as a
oxidation 64. commercial agro-product 77.

Dandruff Treatment CONCLUSION

Ayurved has numerous natural medications wherein the The knowledge of medicinal plants used by the people of
most common herbs include Neem, Kapoor (naphthalene), seems to be well known to its culture and tradition 78. In
and Henna, Hirda, Behada, and Amalaki, Magic nut, the present study we identified many plants used by the
Bringaraj, Rosary Pea, Sweet Flag, Cashmere tree and people to cure dermatological disorders and as cosmetics
Mandor 65. 79. Some of the plants were found to have dual use, both as

curative and cosmetic. Quality control test must be carried

Henna out for herbal cosmetics. It is assumed to be safe for longer
Henna comes from the plant, Lawsonia inermis family periods of time 80.
Lythraceae, which contain a dye molecule called Lawsone,
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