Subject: PM Techniques IV - Traditional Indian

Subject : PM Techniques IV – Traditional Indian
Unit 3 – Women’s wear - sari, blouse and cut choli
Quadrant 1 – e-Text
Learning Objectives
The learning objectives of this unit are to:
• Draw a basic four darts sari blouse with sleeve. Follow the instruction and true the darts.
• Describe the grain line, seam allowance, cut number and trace the pattern to muslin to cut
and develop the muslin fit
• Analyze the test fit problems of the basic sari blouse.
• Develop the basic and production pattern with all information.
• Develop a cut Choli block pattern by following the measurement.
3.1 Blouse with Four Darts Block
Form 8
Follow the general measuring method.
Length (From cervical point towards = 14”

waist, measure required length
Back Shoulder Slop (From center of the bottom = 14.3/4”

waist line to shoulder tip at
back)
Front Shoulder Slop -(From center of the bottom = 14.3/4''
waist line to shoulder tip at
front through bust point)
Shoulder (From shoulder tip to shoulder = 15”
tip)
Bust Round (The circumference of the bust = 34.5”
on the bust level through bust
point)
Waist Round (The circumference of waist = 28”
where the length ends)
Across Back (from center back to mid of = 6.75”
back armhole)
Across Front (from center front to mid of = 6.5”
front armhole)
Bust Height (From shoulder tip to bust = 9”
point)
Bust Span (Bust point to bust point) =7.5”
Sleeve Length (From shoulder tip to the = 8”
required length towards the
wrist)
Sleeve Round (The circumference measure at = 12”
the end of the sleeve length)
3.2 Back Part Measurements
0-1 = Length, Draw a perpendicular line as center back line (14'')

0-2 = ¼ of bust round - 1'' (7 6/8'') square out the chest line, waist line
0-3 = ½ shoulder (7 1/2'' ) 3 is squared down to 4
2-5 = ¼ of bust round + ½ inch (9 1/4'')
6 is squared from 5
1-7 = ¼ of waist round + 1'' (8'')
Join the side seam from 5 to 7
0-8 = 1/12 bust round – ¼ inch (3'')
8-9 = ¾ inch up. Draw the back neck from 0 to 9
1-10 = shoulder slope + ⅛ inch (14 7/8'')
Draw the shoulder from 9-10
11 is mid of 2-4
12 is squared from 11
11-13 = 1''
12-14 = 1/2''
12-15 = 1/2''
Draw the Dart from 15, 11 and 14

Mark 16 at across back line at arm hole and square to 17
17-18 across back (7 1/4'')
Draw the back armhole from 10, 18 and 5
3.3 Sari Blouse Front
0-1 = length + ¾'' (14 3/4'') 0-A = Length 14''

0-2 = ¼ bust round – 1'' (7 6/8''), Draw the chest line at 2. Draw the bottom line at 1
0-3 = ½ shoulder,(7 1/2''), 4 is squared from 3
2-5 = ¼ bust round + ¾'' (9 1/2'') squared down to 6
1-7= ¼ waist round + 1 ½'' + 1/4'' (9 3/4''). Join 5 and 7
0-8 = 1/12 bust round – ¼'' (3'')

0-9 = 1/12 bust round + ¼ / 4 inch, draw the front neck from 8-9
1-10 = front shoulder slop + ⅛ inch, join 10 and 8 as shoulder

11 is mid of 10 - 4, square across to 12
12-13 = across chest (6 1/2''). Draw the front arm hole from 10, 13 and 5
Mark the bust point by ½ bust span + ¼'' from center front and front shoulder slope + ⅛'' from 10
14 is squared from BP, BP-15 = 1''
14-16=14-17= ¾ inch, draw the dart from 17, 15 and 16
Square out the bust point towards center front at 18. Mark 19 at 1½'' away from BP on the line,
and take a dart at 18 as ½'' intake
23 is 1½'' away from BP and join to 24, take dart at 24 by ¾'' as intake of the armhole dart.
21 is 1½ inch away from BP and join to 22 by 2½ to 3'' above from side waist, and take a dart at
22 as ¾ intake of dart, True all the darts and mark the details.
3.4 Sleeve
0 Arm hole measurement = 15.5''

0-1 = sleeve length (8'')
0-2 = ¼ of armhole, (3 4.5/8'') square out the lines.
0- 3 = ½ armhole, join 0-3
1 1-4 = ½ arm round (6''), join 3-4
2 Divide 0-3 into four equal parts and mark 5, 6, 7
3 5-8 = 3/4'' upwards
4 6-9 = half of 5-8, (3/8'') upwards
5 7-10 = ½ inch downwards
6 5-11 = half of 5-8. Draw the back arm hole from 0, 8, 9 and 3
7 Draw the front armhole from 0, 11, 6, 10 and 3
Note: Allow the seam allowance and inlace (at the side seam for further alteration) as per
requirements and make the facing and production pattern to stitch the block.
3.5 Cut Choli Blouse Front Block

Follow the general measuring method.(caption)
The measurement and back and sleeve drafting details are the same as four dart sari blouse.
0-1 = Length (14.5'')

0-2 = ¼ bust – 1'' (7.65'')
0-3 =½s
Shoulder, (7.5'') square across all the points
4 is squared from 3
2-5 = ¼ bust + ¾, 6 is squared down from 5
0-7 = Under bust length, square out 7 to 8
0-9 = 1/12 bust – ¼''
1-10 = Front shoulder slope + 1/8'', join 9 to 10

0 -11 = 1/12 bust +1/4'', draw the front neck nine from 9 to 11
4-12 = ½ of 12 to 10, 12 - 13 = 5/8'', draw the arm hole 10, 13 and 5
Mark the bust point following the bust length + 1/8'' and center front to bust point as bust span +
¼''. 14, 15 is square down from bust point.
BP – 14 = 1/2'', 15 – 16 = 15 – 17 = 1''. Draw the under bust dart from 16, 14 and 17
19 is square across from BP, take a center front dart from 19 - 18 as ½'' intake. 18 is ½''- 11/2''
away from BP. BP - 21 = 11/2''. Take armhole dart at 21 = 20 as ½'' intake
7- 22 = 1'', 8 - 23 = 1'' 23 - 24 = 3/8''. Draw the under bust shape from 22, 16, 17, 23 and 24. Join
5 and 24 as side seam.
3.6 Waist Band
1 - 2 = back side seam length – front side seam length

2 - 3 = ¼ waist + 1/2'' (7.5''), square 1, 2, 3, and 4
1 - 5 = ½''
4 - 6 = 1/2''
6 - 7 = 1/2'' and draw the under bust shape from 7, 6 to 5. Join 7 and 3
7 - 5 = the measure of 22 - 16 + 17 - 24
Note:
This block has the actual shape of the front body with the ease, without seam allowance. True all
the darts to develop the block. The back and the sleeve block drafting detail is to be followed as
per the sari blouse drafting details.
3.7 Conclusion
In this unit you have learnt to draws a basic four darts sari blouse with sleeve. Follow the
instruction and true the darts.

Subject: PM Techniques IV - Traditional Indian

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Subject : PM Techniques IV – Traditional Indian

Unit 3 – Women’s wear - sari, blouse and cut choli

The learning objectives of this unit are to:

• Analyze the test fit problems of the basic sari blouse.

• Develop the basic and production pattern with all information.

• Develop a cut Choli block pattern by following the measurement.

3.1 Blouse with Four Darts Block

Follow the general measuring method.

Length (From cervical point towards = 14”

Back Shoulder Slop (From center of the bottom = 14.3/4”

3.2 Back Part Measurements

0-1 = Length, Draw a perpendicular line as center back line (14'')

Draw the Dart from 15, 11 and 14

3.3 Sari Blouse Front

0-1 = length + ¾'' (14 3/4'') 0-A = Length 14''

1-7= ¼ waist round + 1 ½'' + 1/4'' (9 3/4''). Join 5 and 7

0-8 = 1/12 bust round – ¼'' (3'')

1-10 = front shoulder slop + ⅛ inch, join 10 and 8 as shoulder

0 Arm hole measurement = 15.5''

3.5 Cut Choli Blouse Front Block

0-1 = Length (14.5'')

1-10 = Front shoulder slope + 1/8'', join 9 to 10

3.6 Waist Band

1 - 2 = back side seam length – front side seam length

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