2014 2015 05 1 TR - Baixa
2014 2015 05 1 TR - Baixa
2014 2015 05 1 TR - Baixa
Research Report
Many techniques in the world of Patisserie are completely unknown to most of the people;
and even more so, a great science hides behind each and every aspect of the delicious
pastries prepared in this field of work. It has a biological science, which concerns the
moment a person tastes the pastry, and there is also a great part of physicochemical
science in the making of those pastries. The first two hypotheses center upon how the
organoleptic properties of the dessert change when different physical and/or chemical
processes are applied in the making of the pastry. The third hypothesis concerns the
various biological reactions humans have while tasting the pastries and how it varies when a
change is made from the original product.
To have a better understanding upon the chemistry and physics behind some of the most
often used ingredients, research had to be done, such as reading books, consulting
nutritionists, or conducting various experiments to make conclusions. (The most common
ingredients would include eggs, sugar, gelifiers, dairy products, and chocolates.) After some
research, I postulated that if a chemical manipulation was done to the proteins found in the
egg whites, it would affect the organoleptic results of a dessert called macarons. Therefore,
an experiment had to be conducted to see if the hypothesis was correct; and to a good
surprise, the results showed a drastic change in the macarons’ organoleptic properties when
the manipulation was omitted in difference to when it was sought through. Additionally,
research of various chemical procedures and some more experiments were conducted to
prove and support the current hypothesis. I could conclude from it that each time that a
chemical change was made to an ingredient it would ultimately alter the organoleptic
properties of the result.
I also hypothesized that physical changes play a very important part in the organoleptic
properties of the desert. Therefore, I conducted an experiment regarding the physical
changes that could be done to whipping cream, such as changing its temperature to see if it
would alter the final product, (making sure that only physical manipulations would be
involved.) The results showed in an obvious way that the organoleptic properties changed
when the temperature varied, especially in the texture and density of the whipping cream.
Finally, I got interested in the science concerning the body’s (or more specifically the
nervous system’s) biological reaction when eating a pastry. As it turned out to be, I found
out that the factors responsible for the perception of a food’s organoleptic properties are the
neurons. Furthermore, after learning that there are 5 basic sense reception systems, I
hypothesized that each one influences and is connected to the other systems. In order to
verify this, I conducted an experiment consisting in changing one of the perceptions, (the
visual one,) by ‘blindfolding’ the test subjects and surveyed if they’d had a different
organoleptic experience when tasting a brownie in comparison to when they had their eyes
open. After the survey, I discovered that 92% of the people found a difference in either the
taste, the texture, both, or even the temperature! I therefore concluded that the perception
of the pastries’ features varied upon the different stimuli the environment offered to the
person tasting them.
It is safe to say that all this research, experimentations, analysis, and observations
permitted me to learn all about the science behind “patisserie.”
Throughout this report, I have been very privileged to get help from some extremely unique
and kind people. Firstly, I would like to give my thanks to my wonderful tutor, Geni Duch,
who has followed my report, supported my decisions, given me the right advice at the right
moment, and most of all, given me a huge motivation to continue making my report as best
as I could.
Secondly, I just need to mention how helpful and selfless my father (Didier Masson) was
when I had to format and arrange the esthetic appeal of the report. He helped me even
though he was tired and didn’t have the time himself. Without him, it would not have turned
out as eye-catching as it did and I really appreciate that teamwork.
I should also mention: my mom, Consuelo Sangabriel, my sister Claire Masson, my friend
Monica Sanz, and my brothers, David, François and Yannick Masson… who have supported
me throughout the year, thus, supported me throughout the report.
Finally, as the help that a certain person has brought to me throughout this ‘adventure’ is
surely indescribable by words, I would simply like to add: thank you, Hilmi.
Introduction ........................................................................................1
Chemical Manipulations ........................................................................4
Important chemical changes in Patisserie....................................................... 4
Cooking ............................................................................................................ 4
Brownie experiment: How the brain can trick our perception .......................... 49
Before anything, I would like to state that I already had much experience on this subject
and used this to my advantage on my research. I did some research on the side, using
professional sources, (such as interviewing scientists, reading published articles, or learning
from pastry books) in order to get ideas to make the experiments I needed and to clarify
After thinking for some time, I came up with a hypothesis that needed to be proven and
foremost, to be explored: “the physical and chemical manipulations of the
ingredients affect the organoleptic properties of the dessert.” This made me question
many things about what would happen if a change was made in the pastry and why. For
example, what would happen if a change was made in the physical processes, or
appearance, and how would that affect our perception of the new pastry?
Another doubt I had was about the chemical processes chefs used in order to change the
ingredients and the importance of those procedures, etc. Every single one of those changes
affected the taste, texture, temperature, or any of the organoleptic aspects of the dessert.
Yet, all these doubts put together lead to what I found to be the most important question:
“how does the perception of those modified pastries affect our bodies and
particularly, our nervous system?”
The things I intended to achieve by doing this research report were to be able to prove my
hypotheses and discover new information about the procedures made to make such
incredible pastries. Additionally, I wanted to share the fascinating complexity behind the
making of a dessert with the public. Furthermore, I wished to know more about the human’s
response when eating sweets. However, most importantly, I planned to carry out this
assignment as a valuable experience in the field of patisserie, my favorite hobby.
Throughout my research, I have had the luck to encounter very few problems;
nevertheless, those few problems helped me find out interesting things and deepen my
knowledge in the matter.
Finally, I would like to say that my intention upon making this report was not only to learn
about pastries, but also in order to spread the knowledge of this delicious science to other
people and hope that they will see it as fascinating as I see it.
------
Note: sub-index numbers stand for the word’s corresponding glossary number. (Ex:
organoleptic7)
In the following, I will explain the various and most popular chemical changes there are in
patisserie. Each and every one of the manipulations is vital for the result and acts in a
different way to the ingredient (I will explain the reasons of why they are so important
later). First, there will be the different ways of baking ingredients and batters. Then, I shall
introduce the most important manipulations made with and to eggs, as it is the most
important ingredient in most of the recipes. Afterwards, I will explain the various ways one
can obtain gelification4 as it is a very important process in creams, cold desserts, tarts,
custards and so on… Finally there will be an explanation of the most recent and popular
chemical manipulation in modern gastronomy: spherification.
Cooking
Baking
Because of the dryness of the oven, it usually makes the pastry develop a crust even if its
just a slight soft layer. Also, due to the air bubbles expanding because of the heat, it makes
pastries very fluffy, light, and sponge-like. Due to the special way in which the pastry cooks
completely in the oven it usually gives off a product that can be conserved for longer
periods of time too. However, it really all actually comes down to what one is baking, as a
person can also make creams, mousses, puddings, and other various desserts with different
textures...
In addition, one can bake the ingredients in order to dry, soften, cook them or bring out
their flavors. An example for roasting (or drying) an ingredient through the oven is
pistachios or pistachio powder. Because sometimes they have too much water if they are
very fresh and are not suitable for a certain recipe one needs to dry them first.
To conclude I would like to say that the thing which is most sought for when baking
something in the oven is the
characteristic crust that all the
products will obtain after that
process and the new flavors it
will bring.
Steaming
One must not forget that steaming can be quite tricky, especially when dealing with bread
or something containing any kind of starch or flour in it. Why? Well, because if one over
steams these kinds of mixtures, by, for example, having the fire too high or making the
water evaporate too quickly, it is highly probable that the product will get a very firm and
unpleasant texture.
Bain-Marie
oxidation.
Be it with pectin, sucrose, glucose, fructose or other similar glucids, true caramelization can
work as long as the reaction ends up forming caramelan, caramelen, or caramelin. What are
those compounds? They are the products that come from heating up sugars to a certain
degree. (Fig 12)
First, the individual sugars dimerize (two sugars come together to form one molecule) into a
new form that contains two rings attached by a third central ring (see compound a at Fig 13
in the next page). In the case of fructose, this structure is called a di-D-fructose
Dianhydride. From this point, the chemistry gets a little hand-wavy. The difructose
dianhydride molecules can further react on three different pathways that are the caramelan,
caramelen, and caramelin mentioned before. Let’s not forget that apart from those
compounds many other flavor molecules are released together with dehydration products.
I've thought for many years, along with most cooks, confectioners, and carbohydrate
chemists that heat melts sugar, and then begins to break it apart and create the delicious
mixture we call caramel. This concept has actually been wrong all along!
It turns out that sugar doesn't actually need to melt before caramelizing. It can actually
caramelize while it's still solid! So proved chemist Shelly Schmidt and her colleagues at the
University of Illinois in studies published a few years ago.
After careful analysis, Professor Schmidt found that whenever sugar gets hot enough to turn
from a solid into a liquid, some of its molecules are also breaking apart at the same time.
Sucrose, for example, has a range of temperatures in which its molecules are energetic
enough to shake loose from their neighbors, and a range in which the molecules break
themselves apart and form new ones. What is very interesting about it is that these two
ranges overlap! Whenever sugar gets hot enough to liquefy, it's also breaking down and
turning into caramel, but it can start to break down even before it starts to liquefy. And the
more that sugar breaks down while it's still solid, the lower the temperature at which it will
liquefy.
Caramelizing usually gives off a crunchy, sweet, and sometimes bitter product. Some
important molecules that are produced during caramelization are the furans (have a nutty
aroma), diacetyl (smells like butter), maltol (toasty), and ethyl acetate (fruity).
Eggs are known to have high protein content; thanks to those proteins, we are able to
manipulate the eggs in order to achieve various creams, mousses, tarts, doughs and other
components for pastries. The egg whites contain 90% water and 10% proteins whilst the
egg yolk contains (approximately) 17% proteins, 31% lipids, and the rest are water,
vitamins, or other kinds of molecules.
Proteins in egg whites are the best among all kinds of protein because its amino acid
composition resembles human bodies. (Actually only ten percent of the egg whites’
composition is protein, peptides, or amino acids as the rest of it is only water!)
Furthermore, its application has been limited for its special properties such as heat
instability and high viscosity. The properties of proteins in egg whites can actually be
improved by enzymatic hydrolysis and thus its application could be widened, for example,
the decline of viscosity is beneficial to process fluids and for stirring.
What happens during hydrolysis is that the enzymes found in the egg start breaking down
the proteins into smaller molecules, more concretely, peptides, dipeptides, or even amino
acids. These smaller peptide or amino acid groups will give door for more micelles6 to form,
which is great for making meringues.
Egg-white proteins contain both hydrophilic and hydrophobic amino acids. When the protein
is curled up, the hydrophobic amino acids are packed in the center away from the water and
the hydrophilic ones are on the outside closer to the water. When an egg protein is up
against an air bubble, part of that protein is exposed to air and part is still in water. The
protein uncurls so that its ‘water-loving’ parts can be immersed in the water and its ‘water-
fearing’ parts can stick into the air. Once the proteins uncurl, they bond with each other just
as they do when heated, creating a network that can hold the air bubbles in place. (Fig 16)
When you heat these captured air bubbles, they expand as the gas inside them heats up.
Treated properly, the network surrounding bubbles solidifies in the heat, and the structure
doesn’t collapse when the bubbles burst. However, in comparison with original protein, the
hydrolysate is more digestible due to its low molecular weight, its biological utilization rate
is increased, its allergy is decreased, and it may have potential biological functions too!
Normally, one has to separate the whites from the yolk and let them in the fridge for 1-4
days depending on the freshness of the egg and the coolness of the fridge. Before using it,
in order to achieve complete hydrolysis and the best result possible, one has to take it out
of the fridge one hour before so it comes down to room temperature. This creates a more
liquid and digestible state for the egg whites. Also, it is sometimes essential for the
ingredients mixed together to be at the same temperature, or it could change the batter’s
consistency.
As it becomes more liquid it is a sign that the proteins have either broken down into smaller
peptides or uncurled, therefore it becomes easier and faster to incorporate air due to the
increase in opportunity to create micelles. However, most importantly, by hydrolyzing the
egg whites through enzymatic action, smaller air bubbles can be created. The smaller the
bubble is, the less likely it is to break during the mixing and cooking processes. Therefore
we obtain the same air inside as if it were not hydrolyzed, but with much bigger stability
and uniformity. Thanks to the size and quantity of those air bubbles, any meringue-based
pastry will increase incredibly in volume when put in the oven as the air expands.
The making of meringue is a very tricky subject in patisserie, due to a quantity of factors
that can make it go wrong. What is actually sought for when making meringue, is adding
the most air possible into the mixture so it can be airy and smooth. This is achieved through
the formation of air micelles by the peptides in the eggs. The temperature is a very
important factor for example; on one side higher temperatures make it easier to make a
French meringue because it helps coagulate, but on the other it will cause the meringue to
The way of making a French meringue is a very old but reliable technique. It basically
consists on beating the egg whites while adding sugar from time to time until it becomes
fluffy, consistent, and smooth. Nevertheless, it can still be tricky, because if too much sugar
is added, it will become more liquid and much less airy then it should be. This is because,
by dissolving, the sugars are taking up the hydrogen bonds in the water and consequently
lowering the surface tension. A decrease in the surface tension of the water will impair the
formation of the air micelles in the egg whites. The sugar will will, however, make the
mixture denser and bring more consistency to it. This means that if the sugar is not added
at the right moment it may cause the meringue to be either too airy or too liquid and
usually not sturdy enough.
Egg Yolks
The egg yolks have many different types of molecules in them such as vitamins, proteins,
lipoproteins, fats, and many more that help in various processes. They are usually used in
creams since they serve as a natural gelling agent that helps with the mixture’s sturdiness
and texture. They also help form emulsions, as they contain proteins with both hydrophilic
and hydrophobic amino acids. The amino acids in the proteins as well as the loose ones will
facilitate the formation of micelles. When mixing egg proteins thoroughly with oil and water
one part of the protein will stick to the water and another part will adhere to the lipids.
Figure 20 : Lecithin
Egg yolks are also used for coloring creams as they give off these golden-orange hues that
are perfect for improving the aspect of many deserts, such as for the curd in lemon tarts.
This color actually comes from the β-Carotene (a pro-vitamin) found in the yolk.
Furthermore, they are used as enhancers for lifting cakes or doughs during the baking
process because they too can form tiny air micelles, which expand with the heat.
Gelatinization
Eggs in gelatinization
Talking about eggs, as mentioned before, they can Figure 21: Egg Flan
serve as natural gelling agents when heated in
creams, but how does this work exactly? When one applies heat, one agitates the placidly
drifting egg proteins, bouncing them around. They slam into the surrounding water
molecules. All this bashing about breaks the weak bonds that kept the protein curled up.
Starches in gelatinization
Most people use cornstarch, wheat flour or other kinds of flours to densify creams or to
bake cakes, because: it is quick, mostly tasteless, and it brings consistency to the mix. All
those different grinds have some things in common: they derive from plants and they all
have a form of starch. For example, cornstarch is made up of many molecules of glucose,
specifically amylopectin and amylase that the corn plants produce in granules so they can
store up energy. When starch is heated with water, the granules swell and burst, causing
them to break down and release the glucose molecules into the water. (Fig 22) This process
is known as gelatinization.
When the heated water solution and cornstarch cools down, the amylase molecules can bind
to each other again and create a molecular mesh. The more amylase molecules present, the
firmer, or more viscous, the mesh will become. After heating, a solution with more starch
will turn out to be firmer as well as stickier. Because it is more viscous, a solution with a
higher percentage of starch will spread out much less than one with a lower percentage,
once cooled. This is why, cooling down any cream or gel is important after baking the
starch, as it will finalize the process. Different gels can be made using different starches
because their consistencies vary with the proportions of amylase and amylopectin that
comprise them.
What is “Basic Spherification?” What is “Reverse Spherification?” Well, as the word may
imply, it is a process that turns something into a sphere through a certain gelatinization.
However, it is much more complicated then it may look like, especially when that particular
sphere has to be delicious, sweet and literally bursting in flavor!
Basically, in order to make spherification, one needs a ‘bath’ made mostly out of water, and
an ingredient or fluid that has to be put into that bath. The thing is, either one of the two
components needs to have a 5% sodium alginate content while the other needs to have its
equal reactant, in which calcium chloride is usually used. As the ingredient is put directly
into the bath, the sodium alginate reacts with the calcium chloride (or any similar reactant
containing calcium) and forms a special network of calcium alginate strings, which will
actually form the gel layer. (Fig 23) The longer the ingredient is put into the bath, the
thicker the gel layer will be
Gelatin
Using gelatin is the quickest and easiest way to jellify something, however it is not the most
recommended one because the texture of the jellified mix tends to become too dense or
wobbly to work with, if used in excess. Nevertheless, it is one of the most reliable methods
to keep creams, mousses, or such components sturdy enough for making complicated
desserts. Gelatin is actually a form of partially hydrolyzed collagen molecules, or more
concretely, a mixture of peptides or proteins that will dissolve at warm temperatures. It can
come from animal by-products or from plants. When these collagen by-products are
dissolved into a solution, they will tend to create a web-like structure together with the
molecules found in the mix when cooled down. (Similar to how the jellifying of the eggs
work.) There is one thing that people need to be aware of when using gelatin: sometimes,
hydrolytic enzymes can be found in various ingredients and more commonly in fresh fruit.
Those enzymes will stop the proteins and peptides from forming a structure by breaking
them, preventing the jellification4 to take place. This will ruin the whole purpose of the
gelatin’s use.
For this experiment I centered on a chemical process and a physical process that had to be
made to two ingredients in the general macaron recipe. A macaron is a very popular French
pastry characterized by its “crown,” it contains all the textures of a cake in a “simple,” coin
sized meringue delicacy. Apparently, there are two steps that are vital if one wishes to
achieve the pastry successfully; making a physical and a chemical change in two of the
main ingredients. In order to test out the “old sayings” and “grandmother tips” given for
this recipe and truly understand their importance, I decided to ignore them, and see if it
would turn out wrong! I later on compared the results with the original macarons who
indeed had undergone those two procedures and observe the organoleptic differences that
appeared.
I was immediately baffled by the complexity of baking macarons as I saw that they had all
cracked, and none had the special “crown” they should have around the bottom. Instead,
after I took them out of the oven and let them cool, I found out they were completely
hollow inside. Just as if one had mixed water with soap, created bubbles, and with time all
the bubbles disappeared. (Fig 28)
Figure 28: Macarons made without having the egg white hydrolyzed
I have then confirmed that by changing only a slight chemical procedure in one of the
ingredients, the final result will change considerably.
Finally, I made the normal recipe, following the instructions, including the hydrolysis of the
egg white and the pulverization of the sugar. To my expectations, everything was all right,
the aspect, texture, consistency, etc. of the batter seemed ok, the sugar had dissolved, and
the meringue was perfect. I piped those too, waited 25 minutes, and let them cook in the
oven for 12 minutes just like the others. The result was as I expected: normal, beautiful-
looking French macarons.
After doing this experiment, I have proved that by changing the chemical procedures in
certain ingredients, it directly affects the final result. Also I have demonstrated, that those
chemical procedures are essential for the success of the recipe and have also explained why
they are necessary.
Spherification Ingredients
There are a few ingredients necessary for Basic Spherification and Reverse Spherification
but there are only two that are essential and absolutely required to start the spherification
process: sodium alginate and some calcium element. The calcium element can be found
naturally in dairy products or other similar foods, so depending on what is it that one is
spherifying and if it is reverse or basic, one may or may not need to add some extra calcium
chloride.
Sodium Alginate: It
is a natural product
extracted from brown
seaweed that grows in
cold-water regions.
(Fig 30) It is soluble
in cold and hot water
with strong agitation
and can thicken and
bind. In presence of
calcium it forms a gel
without the need of Figure 30: Sodium Alginate, from seeds to powder
heat. Sodium Alginate
is used in the food
industry to increase viscosity and as an emulsifier. What is great about this product is that it
has no discernable flavor; therefore it can easily be used when making desserts that need
this particular gelification process.
Calcium Lactate: It is used to increase the calcium content of the main ingredient in
Reverse Spherification. It provides a less bitter taste than calcium chloride when added to
the main ingredient and it can also dissolve in fats as it is a amphipathic1 product. It is often
added to sugar-free foods to prevent tooth decay and to fresh cut fruit to keep it firm and
extend shelf life.
Calcium Lactate Gluconate: It is an ideal product for increasing the calcium content of
the main ingredient in Reverse Spherification. The main ingredient consistency and flavor is
not altered by the addition of calcium lactate gluconate as it has no discernable flavor and
dissolves in cold liquid without altering its density. It is versatile as it can be used in liquids
with high acid, alcohol or fat contents. To avoid difficulties in dissolving, one must add the
calcium lactate gluconate before any other powder product.
Sodium Citrate: It can be used to reduce the acidity of the main ingredient when doing
Basic Spherification. The Basic Spherification process does not work if the main ingredient is
too acidic (pH<3.6). Sodium citrate has a sour taste as well as having a salty taste so one
should use it in moderation when adding it to the main ingredient in order not to alter its
taste too much.
Xanthan: It is used to thicken the main ingredient in Reverse Spherification. When the
main ingredient density is too liquid to form spheres in the alginate bath, a thickener like
Xanthan is used. It is obtained from the fermentation of cornstarch with Xanthomonas
campestris bacteria (found in cabbage). It is gluten free and can be used as a substitute for
gluten in baking (used along with non-gluten containing flours). It is soluble in hot or cold
water, stable over a range of pH or temperatures, it can thicken items with high alcohol
content, and it is compatible with systems containing high concentrations of salt.
There are several utensils that are almost if not vital to make a proper and well-done
spherification. Here are the most vital tools known in spherification.
Spherification Experiment
The main goal of the experiment consisted on Figure 34: Appetizer Spoons
directly observing the chemical reactions that
take place during basic and reverse spherification. First of all, I made sure to have all the
material necessary in order to make a successful spherification. As the sodium alginate,
calcium chloride and distilled water were not in my possession, I had to order them at a
pharmacy… Unfortunately, the sodium alginate was out of stock, causing my research on
spherification to be delayed for a month! Once I had all the ingredients in hand I could
finally carry on with the spherification.
Basic Spherification
Reverse Spherification
For the reverse spherification, I used a passion fruit juice in which I added cream in order to
add some calcium content into the mix. After preparing the juice, I made a 5% sodium
alginate bath, specifically with distilled water so the sodium alginate wouldn’t react with any
minerals found in everyday water. Once the bath was ready and the material was in place, I
used a dosing spoon to carry the juice in a spheric fashion, carefully placing it into the bath.
The physical manipulations applied to ingredients, pastries, and mixes end up being
responsible for the texture, aspect, and some of the organoleptic properties of the finished
product. In this section, the science behind the most important and common physical
procedures or changes will be explained.
A very common physical change in pastries is the change in aspect; be it through the color,
shine, texture, or even arrangement of the pastry itself. In restaurants, chefs pay close
attention to how the desserts are arranged. Sometimes the pastry is rearranged in a way
that the cream is on one side of the plate whilst the chocolate is in the other. The dessert
might even actually be scattered around, changing the organoleptic properties of it, as
everything is tasted separately
instead of together as found in the
traditional pastries. The chefs might
also play with the colors, making the
desserts more, let’s say, “appeasing”
or “passionate” depending on the
intensity of their hues.
Change in Color
Change in Gleam
Chefs tend to mix cool creams or mixes along with warm one so that there is a greater
contrast in the organoleptic features of the whole dessert when tasted. The temperature will
also play a great part in the formation of micelles, as mentioned earlier, so by applying one
physical change, it will open room for many more.
The most difficult but important physical manipulation there in in pastry is to control the
amount and size of crystals that certain ingredients or mixes may form in order to influence
the aspect and texture directly. The following will be about the most commonly used
ingredients or desserts in which crystal manipulation is made.
Ice-Cream
The fat content can also influence the size of the ice crystals as fat globules could
mechanically impede the ice crystal growth. It is important to keep the milkfat percentage
high in ice cream in order to develop a smooth and creamy texture. Sugar also influences
the size of the crystals, because in ice cream, higher sucrose content produces smaller ice
crystals and an increase in sugar content from 12 to 18% decreases ice crystal size by
about 25%.
Air bubbles also play a major roll in ice cream… When an ice cream mix is frozen in an ice
cream maker, air bubbles are whipped into the mix. A low overrun (a small amount of air
As for the temperature, in order to achieve small initial ice crystals, the ice cream mix must
be rapidly frozen in a freezer, after it has been churned in the ice cream maker, to promote
nuclei formation and minimize ice crystal growth. Temperatures as low as -30°C are used in
order to promote rapid nucleation in the freezer! Several ideas involving liquid nitrogen
have also been developed to promote rapid nuclei formation. When ice cream is removed
from the ice cream maker, it must be immediately hardened in a freezer. The longer the ice
cream spends at room temperature once it has been churned in the ice cream maker, the
more ice will melt and the larger the ice crystals will be. The temperature and rate of
hardening determine the final ice crystal size and the physical sensory properties of the
product. Time to accomplish hardening has been assumed to be the time for the
temperature at the center of the package to drop to -18°C or lower, preferably -25 to -
30°C.
All these things are the reasons why one has to keep in mind so many things while trying to
manipulate the crystal formations in ice cream and why it is so difficult to achieve the right
consistency when making that particular dessert.
Making sugar crystals is one of the best ways to observe crystallization because it is
relatively easy to do and there are fast results. There are several different parts to the
crystal-making process, and there are also two different ways that the crystals can be
formed, as there is a faster way and a slower way. Though they are the same, the faster
way simulates what happens in the slow way in a much quicker manner.
Even when a water solution has been saturated with sugar, it still takes time for crystals to
form. Usually it takes about three weeks to get a good number of crystals. When using the
evaporation method of making crystals, it can take even longer than that. The evaporation
method of making crystals is the same way that mineral crystals are formed in nature. The
water slowly evaporates over time and the mineral, or in this case sugar, deposits are left in
a crystal formation. Usually when growing sugar crystals one needs to give the crystals
something on which to form. This is generally a string suspended above and through the
sugar solution. The reason that it is necessary to have the string is so that the crystals form
faster and in a way that makes them easier to view. The string acts like a guide for where
the crystals should form.
1,3-Distearoyl-2-oleoylglycerol
Figure 47
If one heats and cools chocolate without controlling the temperature, the crystallization of
cocoa butter will result in crystals of different sizes (bad crystals) forming, and the
chocolate will bloom – that is to say it will appear matt and covered with white patches. So
in order to achieve the right uniform crystalline structure, a chocolatier has to temper the
chocolate, that is to say, manipulate the melting and cooling of the chocolate in a slow
fashion so that it gives it time for the triglycerides to form the right crystalized pattern. The
easiest but priciest way of tempering10 chocolate is to buy a tempering machine. This heats
up the chocolate very, very slowly then cools it down equally slowly, leaving the finished
chocolate silky smooth.
Whipping cream, apart from making this fabulous, smooth, airy, and soft cream we all know
so well, has actually many secrets; and one of them is that it has to have a 30%-40% fat in
order to be turned into a successful whipped cream. After reading an article about whipping
cream from ASHLAND, a book called the Chemistry of Food, and a website about Milk
Chemistry I was able to understand fully well what was going on in the cream. I learned
about the factors that made it transform to this stiff smooth product after whipping it for
three minutes or so.
Cream is actually made out of the higher butterfat layer skimmed from the top of the milk
before homogenization and it obviously contains a relatively high percentage of milk fat. The
percentage comes around naturally and as I mentioned before, it is crucial for the making of
whipped cream; however, because of the present low-fat diets, many companies are prone
to make “low-fat” or “only 7% fat” creams by taking out some of the fat. These sort of low
fat creams are useless for making whipped cream.
What could this fat that has been mentioned so many times be made out of? Actually 98%
of milk or cream fat is made out of triacylglycerides. As shown in the picture below, a
triacylglycerol consists on a glycerol (at the left) and three fatty acids (in the middle) that
unite through esterification (at the right). However, many people now may wonder, fat and
water don’t mix, how can it be that they mix in the cream?
Well, triacylglycerides have a polar part and a non-polar part. The polar part actually mixes
with water, while the non-polar part does not mix well with water. So what happens is that
these triacylglycerides accumulate on the surface of the cream, having the polar part
exposed to the water, and the non-polar part exposed to the air. This is very important for
the formation of micelles, a crucial factor for the whipping cream.
The micelles are formed when the triacylglycerides in the surface are agitated and mixed in
with the water. What will happen is that those triacylglycerides will now be immersed in the
water and its polarity will force them to create a bubble, usually with air inside. The non-
polar part will be pointing towards the interior, and the polar part will point towards the
water. So this is how micelles are made and as a consequence, whipped cream!
Curiously, what is actually happening in whipped cream or in milk is that the casein proteins
are able to create complicated “micelles” of their own, (with the help of calcium phosphates)
as seen in the image below. Those complicated micelles have the casein proteins and the
calcium phosphates acting up as a barrier in order to imprison the sub micelles made out of
triacylglycerides. It is therefore important for the making of macro micelles and it is
consequently vital for the stiffness of whipped cream.
As one may know now, these micelles stabilize the cream, make it more solid, and add air
to it. Now, the thing is, depending on the temperature, micelles are less or more likely to
form; and this is where the experiment comes in.
This experiment proves that by changing the physical state of an ingredient, such as the
temperature, it will ultimately affect the final results’ organoleptic properties. Whipped
cream A turned out to be stiff, smooth, and homogeneous. Whipped Cream B turned out to
be less airy, more liquid, and less homogeneous. Finally, Whipped cream C was completely
liquid and couldn't even be considered whipped cream!
For the second part of the experiment, I centered on a physical process that had to be made
to an ingredient in the general macaron recipe. The most important physical procedure for
the making of macarons is to change the size of a very well known ingredient: simple sugar.
In order for the recipe to be successful it is said that one has to use pulverised (or
powdered) sugar and NOT normal sized sugar crystals. (See Fig 58 and 59)
This pulverised sugar will be later mixed with almond to make what's called a tant pour tant
Therefore, the only thing I changed from the original recipe was that I did not pulverize the
sugar. I could already tell that the tant pour tant was different, it was lumpy and we could
distinguish the sugar grain from the almond. In difference to this, the usual tant-pour-tant
is very dry, powdery, and smooth; also we cannot distinguish what is sugar and what is
almond anymore. This is surely due to the size of the sugar crystals, by being smaller, it
becomes easier to homogenize, and therefore it becomes difficult to distinguish what is
sugar and what is almond.
The next step is making a meringue, for the meringue I made it as authentic to the usual
meringue as there could be: taking hydrolyzed egg whites, adding sugar bit by bit, and
mixing it until it becomes white and fluffy. It turned out perfect! Then, I had to mix the
meringue with the tant pour tant. After what is called “macaronage” all the lumps found
I finally piped the macarons with a piping bag into the oven paper sheet and let them sit for
25 minutes (an essential procedure for the macaron to form a slight crust.) The aspect
before putting them in the oven was very normal and usual, so I started being skeptic as to
whether using normal sugar would be so dramatic. Then, as I usually did, I finally put them
in the oven and let them bake for 12 minutes exactly. After 5 minutes I already knew my
macarons were not macarons, they did not form the ‘crown3.’ Normally, at five minutes
exactly my macarons always lift up and create the macaron collarette3.
After it was done, I took them out of the oven and waited for them to cool; they had most
definitely not made the typical macaron crown. Their aspect was therefore different. The
color stayed the same, if not a bit too colored, and it actually looking like a butter cookie
more than a macaron. (Fig 52) The texture was a bit dry upon tasting it and very crunchy,
but it was soft in the interior. So, it was dryer than the usual but not too much, however the
crunchiness was too pronounced. As for the taste, it was basically the same familiar sweet
subtle roasted-like almond taste any unflavored normal macaron has.
As one can see, using normal sugar just can’t work, but why? The big reason is because of
the dissolution problem, it just cannot dissolve as easily as powdered sugar can without the
need of excessive mixing. Since powdered sugar has such small crystals, it dissolves almost
instantly. Now, why would the fact that it has not dissolved cause a problem? Because the
undissolved sugar forms a crust around the macarons when they are put in the oven; as
some of the crystals accumulate and dry on the top layer with the heat, a hardened cover is
created.
After doing this whole experiment, I have proved that by changing the physical or chemical
procedures in certain ingredients, it directly affects the final result. Also I have
demonstrated, that those chemical and physical procedures are essential for the success of
the recipe and have also explained why they are necessary.
When tasting a treat or dessert, we react in a certain way because the body and nervous
system get stimulated through chemical messages that those sweet pastries send when
they reach the mouth and even the digestive system. There are always variations to how
one will react to a certain food because of the genetic factor affecting the experience of
one’s perception when tasting it. The taste, texture, crunch, appearance, sound and aroma
of the dish will all be very important in sending different messages to the brain. (The
environment actually plays a significant role in influencing the sensitivity of the organoleptic
features in a certain pastry.) In the following, the science behind those biological reactions
will be explained in further detail.
Chemoreception (Odor)
In humans, olfaction occurs when odorant molecules bind to specific sites on the olfactory
receptors. These receptors are used to detect the presence of smell. They come together at
the glomerulus, a structure which transmits signals to the olfactory bulb (a brain structure
directly above the nasal cavity and below the frontal lobe). Humans have two distinct
olfactory systems—the main olfactory system, and the accessory olfactory system (used
mainly to detect pheromones). The main olfactory system detects volatile chemicals, and
the accessory olfactory system detects fluid-phase chemicals. Olfaction, along with taste, is
a form of chemoreception. The chemicals themselves that activate the olfactory system, in
general at very low concentrations, are called odorants. Although taste and smell are
separate sensory systems in land animals, water-dwelling organisms often have one
chemical sense.
The binding of the ligand (odor molecule or odorant) to the receptor leads to an action
potential, a short-lasting event in which the electrical membrane potential of a cell rapidly
rises and falls. Sensory neurons will then project axons to the brain within the olfactory
Chemoreception (Taste)
The sence of touch, or somatic system, is very important as it will let a person know if a
pastry is dry, moist, hot, cold, or more, be it through the hands, the mouth or any other
way… The neurons will be in charge of percieveing the texture and temperature of the
dessert and send the message to the brain. Processing will primarily occure in the primary
somatosensory area in the parietal lobe of the cerebral cortex: information is sent from the
receptors via sensory nerves, through tracts in the spinal cord and finally into the brain.
This will also activate the limbic system and cause a surge of different emotions.
Similarly to the other systems, the neurons of the auditory system will recieve an exterior
stimulation and send signals to the brain, also consequently influencing the limbic system.
During eating, many sounds are produced, which will help the brain determine if the food in
question is crunchy, sizzling, popping, resistant, or many more. The sound waves produced
will then enter the auditory canal, into the inner ear, unto the Organ of Corti where the
receptor cells will translate the information into nerve signals. These nerves signals will
finally reach the brain’s auditory cortex and the sound will finally be percieved.
Photoreception (Sight)
The great biological importance of photoreceptors is that they convert light (visible
electromagnetic radiation) into signals that can stimulate biological processes. To be more
specific, photoreceptor proteins in the cell absorb photons, triggering a change in the cell's
membrane potential. They will later on send those signals through the optic nerve unto the
brain, more concretely, unto the visual cortex. The visual cortex will then send signals to
the limbic system, causing an emotional output or reaction caused by that visual
stimulation. Depending on the organoleptic features of the pastry, one might react in
surprise, enthusiasm, pleasure, or in many more different ways when tasting the pastry…
For the first experiment, I intended to challenge the brains of the test subjects in order to
find out if they would distinguish a difference between two brownies, when there was
actually none! The basic idea was to give a certain pastry to the test subjects when their
eyes were closed, and afterwards make them taste the exact same pastry but with their
eyes open and see if they would note a difference. However; first of all I had to prepare the
brownies, make the survey, and find the test subjects; which I will later on explain.
Afterwards I had to draw conclusions from my results and interpret them in order to start
proving one of my hypotheses: “our perceptions of the organoleptic properties change
depending on the “environment” we are submitted to when tasting those pastries.” So I
finally started doing this delicious and incredibly interesting experiment...
Before even starting the experiment, I had to get the idea and have a general view of how it
would turn out. I actually thought of this experiment as I watched a video of a
gastronomical scientist, (a person who specializes in the molecular science of cooking), who
made an experiment which consisted on changing the aspect of the food and see the
reaction of the people who ate it in contrast to when it had a normal aspect. This made me
think that our eyes could easily deceive our brain and therefore influence our perceptions.
Furthermore, I started doubting what would happen to our nervous system when we
completely closed our eyes, and if that would
that vary our perceptions of the pastry…
After I had my hypothesis, my recipe, and my questions in mind, I wrote down a survey
asking carefully about the “differences” people would maybe notice (or not) when
comparing the two pastries. The following list shows the questions I asked and why I have
asked them:
1. Did you find a difference in texture between brownie A (eyes open) and brownie B (eyes
closed)? If so, what was the difference?
2. Did you find a difference in taste? If Figure 59: Brownies from experiment
so, please specify.
I tried asking this question because I was curious to know if the taste would also be
affected by the situation, meaning that either, 1) Since they are closing their eyes, their
senses become more dull as people “shut down” and therefore will sense less taste...Or
2) Since people cannot see, they will be more alert and therefore concentrate more upon
the perception of “dangerous” tastes, such as the sour taste the dark chocolate might
have…
3. Was there an overall obvious difference between the two pastries or were they the
same?
This question was the most important question, as the answer was a direct “yes” or “no”
it would tell me whether my hypothesis was correct or not. If the people noted a
This question was actually far-fetched because I doubted that they would note a
difference as the brain fools the perception of temperature much less easily than the
ones of texture and taste. However, something (which I will later on explain) very
unexpected happened.
5. What were your feelings at the time you put brownie A in your mouth?
6. In difference to brownie A, did you have a different feeling when tasting brownie B?
I addressed those last two questions in order to know if the difference in perception (if
there was one) could be caused by the feelings of the person when tasting it, or (vise
versa:) if the feelings of the person would be subject to how they perceived the pastry.
The color of something influences our brain in a very particular way. As it seems, when
something has “warm colors” that is to say, red, yellow, brown, orange, etc. we perceive it
as warmer. Therefore, that means that as they closed their eyes, the subjects could not be
influenced by the color of the pastry, so they perceived it “cooler” than when they actually
saw it. More appropriately said, the second one “was warmer” to them, as the brown color
influenced their perception by tricking the brain into thinking that brown means warm.
After conducting the experiment, I researched more upon the possibilities of making
chemical manipulation to ingredients, such as different ways of cooking them, jellification,
and different ways of achieving hydrolysis. Through this, I learned about the science behind
caramelization, the maillard reaction, the formation of micelles, and even about
spherification.
To be sure, I conducted the second part of the macarons experiment, which consisted upon
changing the size of the sugar crystals into smaller ones, or more commonly said, by
pulverizing the sugar. The sugar’s chemical structure did not change whatsoever, so by only
changing its physical structure, I deduced it would not affect the mixture enough to cause a
difference in the organoleptic properties of the dessert. Nevertheless, half way through the
experiment, as mentioned before, I already started to notice a change in the texture, and in
Thanks to this research and experimentation upon the physical changes applied in pastries,
I concluded and proved that some of the organoleptic features of the pastry will
greatly vary from applying a different physical process.
Finally, I studied how the response of the nervous system worked upon eating sweets on
the whole sensory system. This allowed me to learn the complex mechanism of how the
neurons received a “message” from the outside and transformed it into nerve signals, which
would ultimately affect the limbic system and other important parts of the brain. I learned
that depending on which organoleptic features a dessert has, the brain will receive and
generate different signals upon sensing it. The reaction and response of these signals may
be altered depending on the brain’s current activity, on the environment in which a person
is submitted, and on the state of mind in which one receives them.
I therefore concluded that the perception of the pastries’ features varied upon the
different stimuli the environment offered to the person tasting them.
This research in the science behind pastries helped me understand how vital chemical and
physical procedures are for affecting the organoleptic features of the desserts. Furthermore,
it made me learn valuable information about how the sensory system works and made me
realize that the perception of pastries in the brain is linked to all those factors. Definitively,
it made me realize that in “patisserie” there is an immense complexity behind achieving
successful, delicious, attractive and beautiful pastries for the costumers’ sensory
experience.
Gateau
Brownies d’Anniversaire
Main Processes
Main Processes
- Baking
- Baking
- Starch Gelatinization
- Melting
-Melting
-Emulsion
Macarons à la
Gateau des
Pistache
Cent-trois Ans
Main Processes Main Processes
- Hydrolysis -Emulsion
-Baking -Baking
- Egg Gelatinization - Egg Gelatinization
-Melting
Cheesecake Pavlova au
Decoré Fruits
Main Processes
- Baking Main Processes
-Egg and Starch - Baking
Gelatinization - Hydrolysis
-Emulsion
Macarons aux
caramel Muffins aux
Mirtilles
Main Processes
- Hydrolysis Main Processes
-Baking - Baking
- Egg Gelatinization
Fondant au
Chocolat
Fraisier
Main Processes Main Processes
- Baking - Baking
-Emulsion -Melting
-Emulsion
Paris Brest
Macaron au
Donuts aux
Chocolat
chocolat
Main Processes
-Hydrolysis
Main Processes
- Baking
- Frying
-Emulsion
- Temperage
-Temperage
Macarons à la
Madeleines Vanille
Main Processes
Main Processes
- Baking
- Baking
- Hydrolysis
-Egg gelatinization
Figure 12: Caramelan, caramelen and caramelin: Formula from scienceofcooking.com ...... 9
Figure 19: Sugar syrup being added to half beaten egg whites: Photo from marmiton.com ...15
Figure 22: Cornstarch granules being heated (before, during and after heating from left to
right): Photo from GuelphCerealLab on youtube.com ................................................... 17
Figure 23: Sodium alginate and Calcium chloride reaction: Photo from chemistryofood.com .18
Figure 28: Difference between successful and cracked macaron: Personal photo ............ 21
Figure 29: Macarons made without having the egg white hydrolyzed: Personal photos .... 21
Figure 30: Successful macarons, at last: Personal photo from experimentation .............. 22
Figure 31: Sodium Alginate, from seeds to powder: Photo from sciencegeist.net ............ 23
Figure 37: Strawberry juice “caviar”: Personal Photo from experimentation ................... 27
Figure 39: Reverse Spherification taking place: Personal Photo from experimentation ..... 27
Figure 40: Macarons of different colors and flavors: Photo from visualphotos.com .......... 28
Figure 42: Strawberry mousse at solid state: Photo from moderngastronomy.com ......... 30
Figure 43: Vapor sweet strawberry and vanilla dessert: Photo from moderngastronomy.com ..30
Figure 47: Difference between non-tempered chocolate (left) and tempered chocolate
(right): Photo from foodchemistry.com ...................................................................... 34
Figure 49: Types of chocolate crystal formations: Illustration from chocolatealchemy.com ....34
Figure 50: Formation of the β (V) structure with triglycerides: Illustration from
chocolatealchemy.com............................................................................................. 35
Figure 60: Macaron made without powdered sugar: Personal photos from experimentation ..42
Figure 64: Various visually appealing pastries: Photo from visualphotos.com ................. 45
Figure 67: Girl eating ice cream: Photos from visualphotos.com ................................... 47
Figure 70: Brownie from experiment: Personal photo from experimentation .................. 50
Figure 71: Chart 1: Closing their eyes: Pie chart made with chartgo.com ...................... 51
Figure 72: Chart 2: Of those who noticed a change: Pie chart made with chartgo.com .... 52
Figure 76: Little girl with ice-cream: Photo from dreamstime.com ................................ 56
1. Amphipathic: A compound having both a polar and a non-polar end. This makes it
soluble in both polar and in nonpolar dissolvents. This property can usually lead to creating
micelles.
2. Crème anglaise: A light pouring custard used as a dessert cream or sauce; it is a mix of
sugar, egg yolks and hot milk or cream, often flavored with vanilla.
3. Crown or collarette: The identity that defines the macaron, without it one cannot name
it “macaron.” It is a lifted area of the meringue that forms uniformly around the border of
the pastry.
5. Macaronage: The process of mixing meringue with tant pour tant with a spatula, slowly
folding and mixing the batter at the same time so that most of the air bubbles stay.
Strangely, in this process, we purposely take out some air bubbles because otherwise the
macarons will grow too much and crack. However, we also avoid mixing the batter too much
because the destruction of too many air bubbles would cause the macarons not to lift at all.
7. Organoleptic: That has to do with the senses: texture, taste, touch, sight, smell,
temperature, etc.
8. Spherification: The culinary process of shaping a liquid into spheres, which visually and
texturally resemble caviar.
9. Tant pour tant: A mixture of a certain quantity of pulverized white almonds with equal
quantity of pulverized sugar, mixed and sifted. This concept is only used for macarons.
11. Triglyceride: An ester obtained from glycerol by the esterification of three hydroxyl
groups with fatty acids, naturally occurring in animal and vegetable tissues: an important
energy source forming much of the fat stored by the body.
References Caramelizing:
Lee, J. W. et al. Investigation of the heating rate dependency associated with the loss of
crystalline structure in sucrose, glucose, and fructose using a thermal analysis approach
(Part I). J Agric. Food Chemistry 2011, 59: 684-701.
References Eggs:
J. William, B. Steven. 1994. Enzymatic Production of Protein Hydrolysis for Food Use. Food
Technology, 10:68-71
References Spherification:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BeRMBv95gLk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPNo79U77yI
F.B. Yahya. Extraction of aroma compound from pandan leaf and use of the compound to
enhance rice flavor. School of Chemical Engineering: The University of Birmingham, October
2011, 18-19.
Hartel, R. W. 1996. Ice Crystallization During the Manufacture of Ice Cream. Trends Food
Sci. Technol. 7:315-321.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3r78hnYbtg
http://www.chocolatealchemy.com/illustrated-tempering/
http://www.compoundchem.com/2014/04/19/the-polymorphs-of-chocolate/
Ashland Article:
http://www.ashland.com/Ashland/Static/Documents/ASI/Food/TIB_VC-
636_Hydroxypropyl_Cellulose_Whipping_Cream.pdf
http://books.google.es/books?id=-
IdyAgAAQBAJ&pg=PA479&lpg=PA479&dq=whipped+cream+micelles&source=bl&ots=UMR3
2gcaZW&sig=VecQ1I-S5QZd7EHbyzULJNE-
gd8&hl=en&sa=X&ei=OFFSU_C6Leam0QWmkoD4Dg&ved=0CC4Q6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=
whipped%20cream%20micelles&f=false
Milk chemistry:
http://www.ilri.org/InfoServ/Webpub/fulldocs/ilca_manual4/Milkchemistry.htm
Hayes JA, Keast RSJ. (2011) Two decades of supertasting: Where do we stand? Physiology
and Behavior.
Chaudhari N, Roper SD. (2010) The cell biology of taste. Journal of Cell Biology. 190:285-
296.
http://psychology.about.com/od/sensationandperception/a/colorpsych.htm
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2013/01/130103073238.htm
Betina Piqueras-Fiszman, Charles Spence. The Influence of the Color of the Cup on
Consumers' Perception of a Hot Beverage. Journal of Sensory Studies, 2012; 27 (5): 324
DOI: 10.1111/j.1745-459X.2012.00397.x
Ohla K, Le Coutre J, Hudry J, 2010, "How what we see affects what we taste" Perception 39
ECVP Abstract Supplement, page 145