Bearing Run-In Procedures

There are two common methods of bearing run-in. The first method, called continuous
run-in, gradually increases speed until the final operating speed is reached. This
procedure, which can require more than 16 hours to complete depending on final
operating speed, allows the operator to detect potential problems before they can cause
damage. Consider using this method for new equipment as all bearing manufacturers
recommend it.

The second method, called intermittent run-in, is used for existing equipment that has
previously undergone a thorough run-in but has been disassembled and the bearings
repacked with fresh grease or the max RPM is less than 4500. This method can typically
be completed in less than one quarter of the time as continuous run-in.

Continuous run-in:
This first procedure is typically done in 8~16 stages depending on your max RPM
with each stage taking up to an hour to complete.

Begin by dividing the final operating speed by 750, this tells us how many stages,
divide the final operating speed by the number stages, this value gives us our
starting running speed and becomes the incremental value for each new stage.

Start by running the spindle at 500 RPM (or 1/10 of the final operating speed if
less than 5000 RPM) for 15 minutes.

This first step expels any excess grease and will alert you to potential problems
before they cause damage.

Next, begin the process of cycling through incremental stages until full speed is
reached and the temperature has stabilized.

Run each stage for 45 minutes monitoring the temperature during this process and
allow cooling for 15 minutes, the temperature must be stabilized before
graduating to the next stage. (See Monitoring Bearing Temperature)

If the temperature does not stabilize within the acceptable limit, allow it to cool to
room temperature and begin the process from the previous RPM stage.

IT IS ADVISED THAT THIS RUN IN BE PERFORMED

CONTINUOUSLY WITHOUT INTERRUPTIONS OR BREAKS SO
ENSURE YOU HAVE SCHEDULED SUFFICIENT TIME TO COMPLETE
THE RUN IN BASED ON YOUR TARGET RPM.
Intermittent run-in:
Begin by dividing the final operating speed by 10, this value gives us our starting
running speed and becomes the incremental value for each new stage.

Stages one through X are divided into 10 cycles, each one minute in duration
making each stage total time 10 minutes.

Run the spindle up to the target speed and hold for 15 seconds. Stop the spindle
for the remaining 45 seconds and repeat until 10 cycles has been executed.

This method is not recommended where the maximum RPM exceeds 4000.

Monitoring Bearing Temperature:

Stabilizing the bearing temperature at an acceptable level is critical to a successful
run-in procedure. Before moving to the next stage, the temperature should be
constant or dropping. If, at any time, the bearing temperature exceeds 71°C
(160°F) stop the process and allow the bearing to cool to 36°C (98°F) before
continuing.

Ultimately, the target constant temperature, when measured at the housing, should
not exceed 55°C (132°F)

Do not attempt to hurry the process by blowing air over the housing as this will
cause an excessive internal preload and may damage the bearing.

When you consider how much effort and expense goes into the manufacture and
setup of precision bearings and machine tool spindles, it’s not surprising that a
proper run-in procedure takes time. Think of it as maximizing your returns.

NOTE
FRONT BEARINGS ARE MATCHED PAIR SEALED 7006 25DEG OR 40DEG
MEDIUM PRELOAD ANGULAR CONTACT P4 RATED OR BETTER
BEARINGS SUCH AS NTN 7006ADLLBDBP42 (USE ONLY MATCHED PAIR).

ALTERNATELY YOU CAN USE A MATCHED PAIR OF OPEN (NON SEALED)

7006 25DEG OR 40DEG P4 RATED MEDIUM PRELOAD BEARINGS AND
INSTALL A 5MM X 5MM FELT WIPER IN THE GROVE PROVIDED IN THE
FRONT BRARING RETAINER (OIL THE FELT WIPER WELL WITH 80W OR
90W OIL BEFORE INSTALLING ON THE SHAFT, ROLL A SOCKET INSIDE
THE FRONT BREAING RETAINER TO PRE-COMPRESS THE FELT WIPER).

REAR BEARINGS ARE RUBBER SEALED 6005-2RS P5 OR P4 BEARINGS.

 Bearing Replacement.
1) Remove the pulley nut.

2) Remove the pulley and the pulley key.

3) Remove the front bearing retainer.

4) Push the shaft out.

5) Push out the two rear bearing, and the wave springs.

6) Clean any debris from inside the spindle body.

7) Insert the wave springs and push in the two bearings.

8) Remove the front bearing nut and remove the bearings.

9) Install the new front angular contact bearings back to back configuration.

10) Tighten the front bearing nut.

11) Push the shaft into the housing and rear bearings until fully seated.

12) Install the front bearing retainer.

13) Install the key in the key-hole and tap with a brass hammer to fully seat.

14) Install the pulley and tighten the pulley nut.

NOTE
YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE DRAWBAR OR PETAL CLAMP TO
REPLACE BEARINGS.

THE PULLEY AND FRONT BEARING NUTS HAVE A LOCKING SET SCREW,
CARE MUST BE TAKEN TO ENSURE THEY ARE NOT OVER-TIGHTENED
AS THIS WILL MAKE IT DIFFICULT TO REMOVE THESE NUTS.

SUFFICIENT MATERIAL IS PRESENT SO IF YOU NEED TO REGRIND THE

SHAFT TAPER (8DEG, 17MIN, 49SEC), USE CARE WHEN REMOVING THE
DRAWBAR AND ONLY REMOVE THE DRAWBAR WHEN THE DRAWBAR
NUT IS FULLY DEPRESSED (NEVER REMOVE THE PETAL-CLAMP FROM
DRAWBAR) AND RESET THE KNOCK DEPTH WHEN RESINSTALLING THE
DRAWBAR.
 Drawbar Knock Adjustment
1) Loosen the drawbar set screw two to three full turns.

2) Fully depress the drawbar nut.

3) Using a flat-blade screwdriver turn the petal-clamp (in/out) to adjust the knock depth
so that the tool holder is pushed out of the socket 0.005in to 0.010in.

4) Slowly release the drawbar nut.

5) Tighten the drawbar set screw to lock the drawbar.

CAUTION!!!!
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THE DRAWBAR NUT TO ADJUST THE PETAL
CLAMP KNOCK DEPTH.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO ADJUST THE PETAL-CLAMP WHILE THE

DRAWBAR NUT IS NOT DEPRESSED.

DO NOT TURN THE PETAL-CLAMP ALL THE WAY DOWN SO THAT THE
DRAWBAR THREAD BOTTOMS OUT AS THE FORCE REQUIRED TO
UNLOCK IT MAY LOOSEN THE PETAL-CLAMP FROM THE DRAWBAR
WHICH WILL RESULT IN DRAWBAR AND/OR PETAL-CLAMP FAILURE.

THE PETAL-CLAMP IS SECURED TO THE DRAWBAR WITH A LOCKING

SET SCREW REQUIRING A 2.0MM KEX KEY.
 BT / ISO Shaft End Cap
1) Remove the spindle front bearing retainer (12 x 4mm socket hex cap screws).

2) Remove the shaft end cap (6 x 3mm socket hex cap screws).

3) Separate the end cap using a brass drift (brass chisel) by supporting the shaft to prevent
damage to bearings as you lightly tap it, once you have achieved separation you should
be able to remove it by hand.

4) Install the desired shaft end cap (6 x 3mm socket hex cap screws).

5) Install the front bearing retainer (12 x 4mm socket hex cap screws).

CAUTION!!!!
THE SHAFT END CAP ARE VERY SNUG FITTING AND CAN BE TAPPED ON
USING A RUBBER HAMMER OR A PIECE OF WOOD OR NYLON TO
PREVENT DAMAGE AND ONCE SEATED, IT WILL TURN USING NEEDLE-
NOSE PLIERS IN TWO HOLES OR YOU CAN HOLD IT WITH PLIERS TO
ALIGN THE HOLES, CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN NOT TO CLAMP IT IN A
VISE OR USE VISE-GRIPS AS THIS WILL DAMAGE THE SHAFT AND OR
SHAFT END CAP.

BT Shaft Dogs (old style)

1) Remove / Install the dogs on the front of the shaft. (2 x 4mm socket hex cap screws).
 Drawbar Actuator
The drawbar incorporates Belle Ville Disc Springs with a rating of 320lbs, which requires
a force greater to activate, a minimum of 15% greater is sufficient to overcome this static
force but 25% or more is recommended.

The recommended actuator is air over hydraulic utilizing a slave cylinder which gives
significantly more force due to hydraulic displacement over an air only actuator system
but are usually more complicated in design due to the three stages (air cylinder, master
hydraulic cylinder and slave hydraulic cylinder) and the benefits far outweigh the
implementation of the air cylinder only actuator system.

The air over hydraulic can be a single unit with integrated slave or the slave can be
connected remotely using hydraulic hose.

In a shaft supported drawbar actuator system, a typical travel speed is 80in to a maximum
of 50in per minute of travel speed.

In a non shaft supported drawbar actuator, to prevent bearing, petal-clamp and drawbar
damage the drawbar actuator must not shock the drawbar so it’s travel speed must be
metered (regulated).

In a non shaft supported drawbar actuator, a typical travel speed of 180in to maximum of
100in per minute will ensure positive engagement while preventing bearing shock, the
same speed on retraction will prevent drawbar shock.

The use of a single adjustable metering valve is always used on the retraction side of the
air cylinder in an air cylinder only actuator system to reduce the travel speed however
using dual metering valves allows for greater control and prevents retraction snap.

To reduce the likelihood of bearing damage due to force exerted on the bearings during
drawbar activation, a system that hold the shaft (shaft supported) while depressing the
drawbar nut is also recommended as it applies zero force to the bearings and a simple but
highly effective hydraulic slave cylinder design drawings are available in the downloads.
 Retention Knobs and Tool Holders
Make sure the retention knob is fully seated in the tool holder, if you have any gap
between the retention knob and tool holder you can chamfer the hole with a chamfer tool
(less than 90deg inclusive) to allow the retention knob to fully seat, remove only enough
material to allow the retention knob to seat.

Periodic inspection of retention knob shanks and heads for cracks and damage will
prevent premature petal-clamp failure.

It is not uncommon for some rust and pits to develop on tool holder tapers, resist the urge
to sand off the rust or remove the pits as this will destroy the integrity of the taper and the
tool holders ability to grip the shaft socket.

Wipe or use air to remove any debris from the tool holder taper before use.

On a monthly basis wipe the spindle taper using dry, oil-free lint free cotton or felt or ,
you could make a wiper stick that resembles the tool holder taper and line it with four felt
strips.

A simple device with dogs can be fabricated for installing tools and setting tool depth.
 Coolant Through Spindle
Coolant Through Spindle is a complicated system, the use of a hollow drawbar made of a
high strength and hard material (such as 40CrNiMo8) is required along with a rotary-
union that in most cases uses an air over hydraulic actuator.

If your maximum Spindle RPM is greater than 3000 it is advised that you install a spindle
coolant system and that the system is activated whenever the spindle is running
regardless of it’s operating RPM.

There are two methods of adding air/coolant support to the spindle and depending on
your skills and access to tools and equipment you can use the method you are
comfortable with.

METHOD #1
You make a coolant/air drawbar from 30CrNiMo8, based on the existing drawbar.

In the M6 x 1.0pitch end of the drawbar you drill a 1.75mm hole 20mm deep and the
8mm portion of the drawbar you drill a 2.5mm hole to meet it.

A 3mm hole in the drawbar nut set screw is also required.

METHOD #2
You make a petal-clamp body made from 30CrNiMo8 with M8 x 1.25pitch x 20mm
thread depth and a grade 12.9 socket hex cap screw shank (M8 x 1.25pitch) allows a
3mm through hole.

An M8 x 1.25pitch set screw with a 2.0mm hex-hole added is required to tighten the
petal-clamp to the drawbar in the same fashion as the standard M6 x 1.0pitch petal-
clamp.

A 3mm hole in the drawbar nut set screw is also required.

NOTE
Dimensional drawings for both styles of drawbars are available upon request as well
as the M8 x 1.25pitch petal-clamp body.

Research, design and implementation of the drawbar actuator rests entirely upon
the machine designer or end user.
 Petal-Clamp Remove/Install
The petal-clamp is secured to the drawbar with a set screw which requires a 2.0mm hex
key to tighten/loosen it which can be access through the 2.25mm hole in the end of the
petal-clamp.

Care should be taken to ensure your 2.0mm hex key is not undersized as this can damage
the hex key and or set screw preventing the hex key from tightening or loosening the set
screw.

CAUTION!!!!
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THE DRAWBAR NUT TO REMOVE OR
INSTALL THE PETAL CLAMP.

THE DRAWBAR NUT SHOULD BE FULLY DEPRESSED WHEN REMOVING

OR INSTALLING THE PETAL CLAMP.

THE PETAL CLAMP KNOCK DEPTH SHOULD BE READJUSTED EVERY

TIME THE PETAL-CLAMP IS INSTALLED ON THE DRAWBAR TO ENSURE
PROPER OPERATION AND PREVENT PREMATURE PETAL-CLAMP
FAILURE.