NATURAL DYES and DYEING

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Rendon, King Homer D.

NATURAL DYES AND COLORANTS

Dyes are colored organic compounds that are used to impart color to various substrates, including
paper leather, fur, hair, drug, cosmetics, waxes, greases, plastics and textiles. It is generally applied in
an aqueous solution on the fiber, and may require a mordant to improve the fastness of the dye
against water, light and perspiration. Mordant a chemical that fixes a dye in or on a substance by
combining with the dye to form an insoluble compound. These are some classes and types of dyes:
acid, natural, basic (cationic), synthetic, direct (substantive), disperse, sulfur, pigment dyes and etc.

Colorants are substances such as dyes and pigments which are used for coloring a material. The
difference between these two types of colorants is that dyes are soluble in the substrate and thus
disperse at a molecular level, while pigments are insoluble and are dispersed as particles. Dyes provide
brighter color than conventional pigments, but they are less light stable and less permanent.

Here are some natural sources that can be used in making dyes:

• Red beets = pink to red


• Red onion skin = pale purple to red
• Red cabbage = blue
• Spinach = green
• Cherries and Strawberries = deep red
• Purple grape juice = lavender
• Raspberries or blackberries = pink/purple
• Blueberries = blue
• Yellow or green apples = yellow/green
• Carrots = yellow /orange

Procedure:

Preparation of the yarn/cloth (Scouring): The purpose of scouring cotton is to clean it thoroughly.
Dissolve ¾ teaspoon of soap/ detergent and ¼ teaspoon of washing soda, place in a 1-L beaker and add
water ¾ full. Put the cotton cloth (100g) and boil for 20 min. Rinse well. Now you can either dry it or
apply fixative straight away.

Mordanting recipes:
Alum and washing soda (pre-mordant)
10g cotton, 2.5g alum, 0.6g washing soda,400 ml water.

Dissolve the alum and baking soda in a little boiling water, add this to the rest of the water; stir
and heat. When the water is hand-warm add the clean cotton, heat slowly to boil and simmer for one
hour, leave the cotton in the bath for 1 hour (?). Take out the cotton, squeeze out excess water, let it
dry and rinse just before dyeing.

Alum and washing soda (after-mordant)/ chrome or copper sulphate and vinegar 10g cotton, 2.5g
alum, 0.6g washing soda, 400 ml water [or 1g chrome or 2g copper sulphate and 50 ml vinegar.]

Preparation of the Dye Bath and Dyeing.

Chop/cut the bark/leaves into small pieces. Place in a beaker (or stainless steel pan) add enough
water to cover the material and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and let boil 30 min to 1 hour, or until
you get a definite color. (Add water as needed during boiling). Let it cool and strain. Immerse the pre-
mordanted cotton in the dye bath and bring to a boil. Simmer for 45 min or until a definite color has
been attained. Allow to cool, remove the cotton from dye bath, squeeze excess liquid and place in the
after-mordent bath. Heat to about 80°C, then simmer for another 5 min, leave to cool and then wash
with detergent and rinse well. Dry away from sunlight or heat.

After the cotton has been dyed, take it out of the dye bath. Put the alum and washing soda,
already diluted in a little boiling water into a clean pan with the rest of the water, stir, put the dyed
cotton in the mordant bath and boil for 10 min, covered. Let it cool, then rinse the cotton, wash with
soap, rinse again and dry away from direct sunlight or heat.

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