Levi Strauss Case Study
Levi Strauss Case Study
Levi Strauss Case Study
Bruce Springsteen wore a pair of Levi’s jeans on the cover of his Born in the USA album,
and James Dean and Madonna also did their part in marketing the brand. Levi’s success at
infiltrating itself into US pop culture is such that it pops up in the memory of many baby
boomers remembering their school years: The “cool” kids wore Levi’s.
In the mid-nineteenth century denim was considered work wear, and Levi Strauss & Co.
was a small dry goods store that sold functional items like clothing, linens, and bedding
in California. Marketing of Levi’s denim products borrowed from the American Western
landscape featuring cowboys, fishermen, and mechanics, among others, at work in everything
from their catalogues to the garment’s tag. Durable, functional, and guaranteed were
the pillars on which the firm built the reputation of its products.
By the start of the twentieth century, the firm had expanded its product line to include
children’s clothing. At the same time, the firm’s marketing became more “artistic,” taking
on the cultural trends of the times and marking a significant shift in philosophy that would
turn the brand into a US icon and make jeans a fashion statement.
Being a US tradition, however, has not been enough to spare the firm from the challenges
facing the industry around the world. Over the past two decades the firm has underperformed
as a result of increased competition and changing consumer trends around the
world. Protecting the brand name it so painstakingly built might never have been such a
difficult task.
Levi Strauss was one of the last firms to hold on to domestic manufacturing. After all,
the value of the brand was closely tied to US manufacturing quality. As competitors flocked
to Asia in the mid-1990s, the firm remained hopeful that its brand would survive the price
competition. By 1999, the strategy shifted as Levi Strauss announced it would turn itself
into a marketing firm and shed the manufacturing side of its supply chain. This, it argued,
would allow the firm to have a more flexible price structure. By 2004, all US-based factories
Diesel, Guess, Buffalo, Silver, and Gap have also eroded the star power of Levi’s jeans.
Diesel jeans, for example, are considered a step above in terms of quality and design.
While some competing brands might not be as durable as Levi’s, they are less traditional
their wardrobes.
In England, Levi Strauss went as far as suing Tesco, a major supermarket, for selling
Levi’s products at a discounted price. Levi Strauss argued that Tesco’s actions devalued the
brand by selling jeans next to household products, groceries, and produce. Tesco had
purchased Levi’s jeans in the gray market—from distributors whose products originated from
Levi’s, because it refused to sell jeans directly to Tesco or other supermarkets. A European
Union law prohibits branded products purchased abroad from being sold in the EU market
without the consent of the brand owner. The ruling forbade Tesco from purchasing
products outside the EU for sale in the UK, but allowed it to continue purchasing jeans in
other EU countries. 23
Winning the lawsuit did little to solve the erosion of its market by competitors, and the
company continued to make losses. Realizing the potential of using these “discount” marketing
channels, Levi Strauss introduced a cheaper version of its jeans to be sold directly
to supermarkets, including Tesco. Levi’s “Signature” brand may solve the firm’s problem
of attracting as wide a customer base as possible while retaining the value of its original
line of jeans.
Levi Strauss is one of the few companies that pulled out of China during the mid-1990s
because it felt that the government was guilty of pervasive human rights violations. The
company stopped manufacturing jeans in China after it found evidence of child labor,
forced labor, and a military presence at factories that were producing clothing for the
firm. The company did not own any of these factories on the mainland; it relied on local
the suppliers from using child labor, forced labor, or excessive work hours. So when Levi
Strauss learned of these violations, it concluded that its association with the contractors
would damage its reputation, and it began a phased withdrawal from China.
Now Levi Strauss is coming back into the marketplace and even has plans to start a
direct-marketing operation on the mainland. The firm has promised to monitor its new
Chinese factories carefully to ensure that they comply with human rights guidelines. At
the same time, however, Levi Strauss is glad to be back because, like many other MNEs, the
company believes that China is a marketplace of the future. 25 One senior executive in the
company put it this way: “You’re nowhere in Asia without being in China.