The Sherpas of Mount Everest

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The Sherpas of Mount Everest

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The National Geographic 50th Anniversary Everest Expedition commemorates the first
ascent of the world's highest mountain, by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in May
1953. It also honors the first Americans to stand on the top of the world, including Barry
Bishop, in 1963.

What's This?
The sons of Everest pioneers Hillary, Norgay, and Bishop—Peter Hillary, Jamling
Norgay, and Brent Bishop—are helping make a documentary that will air on the
National Geographic Channel in the United States and internationally in 2003.

The National Geographic 50th Anniversary Everest Expedition is made possible in part
by the generous support of American International Group, Inc.

The cheerful smiles and legendary strength of the Sherpas have been an integral
part of Everest climbing expeditions from the very beginning. Indeed, very few
significant successes have been achieved without them.

When Western mountaineers first set their sights on the world's highest peak, they
found in the Sherpas a people ideally suited to the rigors of high-altitude climbing;
unfailingly positive, stout at altitude, and seemingly resistant to cold.

Sherpas did not venture into the high peaks until European mountaineers began arriving
to climb in the world's greatest mountain range. Mount Everest, known as
Chomolungma or "Goddess Mother of the Land" to Tibetan language speakers like the
Sherpas, was long revered as an abode of the gods. Its slopes were considered off-
limits to humans.

Although Everest now sees many a human footprint, the Sherpas still regard the
mountain as a holy place. All modern expeditions begin with a Puja ceremony in which
Sherpas and other team members leave offerings and pay homage to the gods of the
mountain, hoping to remain in their good graces throughout the climb.

The Earliest Years

A Himalayan veteran in the early 1920s, Alexander Kellas is generally regarded as the
first person to recognize the natural aptitude of the Sherpa people for hard work and
climbing at high altitude. In his time, Kellas was perhaps the world's leading expert on
mountain sickness and the effects of high altitude. He recognized that Sherpas did not
feel these effects in the same way as others, though it remains unclear what
combination of genetics and an upbringing at high altitude allows the Sherpas to deal
physiologically with altitude better than others.

Sherpas were first employed as porters, tasked with carrying large amounts of
equipment to supply the military-style expeditions of the day. The British climbers were
amazed at the strength of these people, from the fittest of mature men to the young and
elderly. Arthur Wakefield described the team of porters on one early expedition as "a
motley throng of old men, women, boys and girls." Yet their accomplishments
astonished him. At 18,000 feet, how the Sherpas carried their loads "completely puzzles
me," he wrote. "Some were 80 pounds!" In addition to their loads, some of the women
carried along their babies. The whole troop slept outside, using only rocks for shelter, as
temperatures dropped well below freezing.

Stronger Sherpas soon graduated from porter status and began to undertake
challenging climbing and work high on the mountain. Those who distinguished
themselves high on the mountain were awarded the Tiger Medal, and many aspired to
this honor and the higher pay rate it afforded.

Everest legend George Mallory reported to a joint meeting of the Royal Geographical
Society and the Alpine Club that the greatest lesson learned from the 1922 expedition
was that the Sherpas' power far exceeded expectations. They carried loads to 25,500
feet, and some of them could repeat this incredible feat three days in a row and show
little fatigue. It was only this remarkable ability that made possible the high-camp
method of climbing Everest that prevails to this day.

Unfortunately, Sherpas were also the first to suffer the consequences that can come
from climbing high on Everest. A North Col avalanche killed seven Sherpa porters on
the 1922 expedition, the first recorded climbing fatalities on the mountain. Even after the
disaster, however, the Sherpa people remained enthusiastic about taking part in
Everest expeditions, which even then were becoming an important source of revenue
for a poor mountain folk.

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The Era of Everest Successes

Successive seasons have seen Everest activity grow by leaps and bounds, and seen
the Sherpas achieve some of the mountain's greatest achievements.

It was Sherpa Tenzing Norgay who first reached the summit with Sir Edmund Hillary 1n
1953, and Tenzing who plants the flag in the famous photo of triumph. It was only fitting
that a Sherpa be part of the first pair to finally reach a summit that had long seemed
unattainable.

On the 1963 expedition that put the first American climbers on the summit of Everest,
Sherpas played a heroic role.

After a successful summit, climbers Willi Unsoeld, Lute Jerstad, and Barry C. Bishop
were debilitated by frostbite and unable to descend from Base Camp. Sherpas came to
the rescue, with a team of four carrying each climber on a two-day journey to Namche
Bazaar where they could be evacuated by helicopter.

Bishop described in National Geographic magazine the typical good humor with which
they set to even this grueling task: "By the end of the first day, a fierce rivalry springs up
between the four carrying me and the four carrying Willi. Every suitable stretch of trail
inspires a foot race."

At expedition's end, President John F. Kennedy presented each member of the


expedition, including the Sherpa team, with the National Geographic Society's Hubbard
Medal.

In the modern age of Everest climbing, Sherpas are among the most accomplished
mountaineers. They often serve as guides to foreign climbers, and the names of their
own great mountaineers hold a high place in Everest lore.

Ang Rita Sherpa, the well-known climbing Sherpa, amassed an amazing ten Everest
summits—all without oxygen. In 1999 Babu Chiri Sherpa spent 20 hours on the summit
of Everest, an unheard-of feat. Babu Chiri also raced up the mountain in a record
ascent of 16 hours and 56 minutes. In 1995 he ascended Everest twice within two
weeks. He dedicated his Everest achievements to raising international awareness and
funds for the education of Sherpa children.
Such feats, along with their continued roles in carrying loads, fixing ropes, setting
camps, and generally tending to climbing teams have earned the Sherpa people a place
of unequalled respect. They've also helped to create a climbing and trekking industry
that has brought the world to Nepal's once-isolated Solo Khumbu region. In the
Sherpas' home, Everest has become not only a spiritual center but a financial one as
well.

Of course, success or failure on Everest comes with a price, and the Sherpas have
always paid dearly for their association with the mountain. Since the first seven Sherpa
fatalities in 1922, many others have lost their lives on Everest. Of the first 100 recorded
Everest fatalities, for example, 41 were Sherpas. In April 2001 Babu Chiri Sherpa fell to
his death into a crevasse near Camp Two, a tragic end to an Everest legend.

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