Water Treatment for Acreages:

Home System Components:

 Well (60’deep ?) TBC

 Well Pump (Brand, Model, Capacity)Grundfos, SQ,SQE, 7gpm (as per owner e-mail)
 Pressure tank c/w pressure switch and Pressure Gauge
 Chlorination Pump (Brand Model)
 Chlorination injection.
 100 USG storage tank
 Carbon Activated Filter c/w with GE valve (Model)

Schematic:

Issues:

 Plastic to metal transition fitting

 Lots of Iron in the water, iron taste and plumbing fixture stains.

Information

How To Treat Iron, Manganese & Odors Well Water

Iron is one of the earth's most plentiful resources, making up at least five percent of the earth's crust. In well water
iron is usually found in a dissolved state and may appear clear when first drawn from the tap.
The maximum amount recommended in water is 0.3 mg/L which is same as saying 0.3 Parts Per Million or PPM.
When the level of iron in water exceeds the 0.3 mg/l limit, the water may have a red, brown, or yellow color and
stain laundry and fixtures. The water may also have a metallic taste and an offensive odor. Water system piping and
fixtures can become restricted or clogged, and appliances such as water heaters, dishwashers and washing machines
plugged with rust and sediment.

Iron gives water a disagreeable metallic taste. When the iron combines with tea, coffee and other beverages, it
produces an inky, black appearance and a rusty, bad taste.

There are four main types of iron or conditions in which iron is found in well water:

 • Soluble "Clear Water" Iron

 • Insoluble Oxidized "Red Water" Iron
 • Organic Iron
 • Iron Bacteria
1. What type of iron do I have in my water system?
2. What is the flow rate I have available, to backwash the iron filter I choose?
3. Do I have manganese, hydrogen sulfide odor, iron bacteria or tannin in my water?
4. What is the pH (acid or alkaline nature) of my water?
5. According to the water test results, will the water treatment unit remove the total iron concentration?
Test Your Water
If there is an iron problem with the water supply, the first step is to determine the source. The source of iron may be
from the corrosion of iron or steel pipes or other components of the plumbing system where the acidity of the water,
measured as pH, is below 6.8.
A laboratory analysis of water to determine the extent of the iron problem and possible treatment solutions should
begin with tests for iron, iron bacteria, pH, manganese, tannins, hardness, and total dissolved solids. Take the
sample as close to the well as possible.
It should always include a pH test, which indicates if the water is acidic or alkaline. With these results, you can
identify if you need any type of water treatment, and what type of system to select, based on your water
chemistry. Avoid in-home water testing by water softener sales people during sales demonstrations.
For health •related issues at a minimum include a test for total coliform, e-coli (fecal coliform). If infants and
children will be drinking the water, a complete general, mineral, metals and bacteriological test is recommend.
If the source of water is a public water system and you experience iron-related problems, it is important to contact a
utility official to determine whether the red water is from the public system or from the home's plumbing or piping.
Check For Odors in Well Water & Water Heater
Run a hose bib or tap as close to the well as possible and fill a 5-gallon bucket or other container and notice if there
are odors. If you smell a "rotten-egg" odor, this is hydrogen sulfide gas. If water smells like oil or asphalt this can be
from manganese. If water smells like cucumber or sewage this is usually a result of iron and/or sulfur bacteria.
Run the water hot water from each tap and notice if there is an odor in the hot water, that is not in the cold water.
This indicates a problem with the water heater. Iron and sulfur bacteria can interact with the anode rod in water
heaters, resulting in hydrogen sulfide gas only in the hot water. Changing the anode rod to an aluminum rod can
often solve this problem.
It is recommended that you drain your water heater at least once per year. This will flush out sediment that may
accumulate in the bottom and give you an idea of the sediment type and color , if any, are present.
Perform a "Toilet Tank Inspection"
Unless your toilet tank is new or has recently been cleaned your toilet flush tank can be a wealth of useful water
quality information! Simply lift the cover and look in. If you see slimy rusty deposits on the sides of the tank, and
frothy bubbles in the tank water, this is a good indication of iron bacteria.
Water heaters can accumulate rust and sludge. Iron and sulfur bacteria can create sulfur odors in water heaters.

Symptom Cause Solution

White scale on float Calcium hardness Water softener
White scale on float Total dissolved Reverse osmosis
solids
Tank sides are white, but black, Decaying Replace pipes; correct corrosiveness
rust or sand is laying on the galvanized pipes of water
bottom
Sand, rust or Sediment and/or iron filter
sediment in well
water
Blue Stains Acidic (low pH) Calcite neutralizer or soda ash feeder
water
Rust Stains Iron Iron filter (Birm, MangOX,
Greensand, Pyrolox)
Furry, stringy red growths Iron (and/or other) Chlorination, aeration, ozone
bacteria injection, hydrogen peroxide, followed
by filtration
Furry, stringy gray or black Sulfur (or other) Chlorination, aeration, ozone
growths bacteria injection, hydrogen peroxide, followed
by filtration
Frothy, with bubbles Iron bacteria Chlorination, aeration, ozone
injection, hydrogen peroxide, followed
by filtration
Brown stains Iron And/or Iron filter that removes manganese
Manganese (MangOX, Greensand, Pyrolox)
Black Stains Iron And/or Iron filter that removes manganese
Manganese (MangOX, Greensand, Pyrolox)
Ferric Sulfide Iron filter (Birm, MangOX,
(black rust) Greensand, Pyrolox)
Pink Stains Airborne bacteria Not water quality related; Clean with
chlorine bleach

Determine Your Well Pump Flow Rate

Your well pump can pump water up to a certain maximum flow rate, in gallons per minute. For example say you
could fill a 5 gallon bucket in 1 minute. This is a flow rate of 5 gallons per minute or 5 GPM. If the water filled up a 5
gallon bucket in 30 seconds, the flow rate would 10 GPM. Knowing how many gallons per minute your water system
can pump is critical to picking the right type of water treatment system, and it is easy to determine.
This method works for most well pumps. If your pump turns on at one pressure (typically 30 or 40 PSI) and off at a
higher pressure (usually 50 or 60 PSI) this method will work for you.
It is easy! All you need is a 1 or 5 gallon bucket and a watch or clock. It takes just a few minutes:
1. Open any hose bib or faucet until pump turns on.
2. Close hose bib or faucet and let pump fill up pressure tank until it turns off.
3. Using a 1 or 5 gal. bucket, open faucet, collect and measure all water discharged until pump turns on.
4. When pump turns on, immediately close faucet and start timing pump cycle*
5. When pump turns off, record pump cycle time to refill pressure tank in seconds.
6. Divide the number of gallons collected in Step 3 by the number of seconds in Step 5.
7. Multiply the answer from Step 6 by 60.
8. The answer in Step 7 is the average pumping capacity of the pump in gallons per minute (GPM).

Pressure Tank with Submersible Well

How It Works: Submersible pump in well (1) is controlled by

pressure switch (2). When pressure in pressure tank (3) drop below
a preset level (typically 40 to 60 PSI) the pressure switch turns on
well pump. Well pump continues to run until pressure in pressure
tank builds up, and pressure switch reaches maximum pressure
setting. The pressure tank contains a precharged air bag to
moderate pressure in the piping system.

1 Well pump submerged in water

2 Well head with sanitary seal
3 Check valve (may be submerged in well and not visible)
4 Pressure switch
5 Pressure gauge
6 Pressure tank

Understanding the 4 Types of Common Problems

and Solutions
The 4 Types of Iron Problems Treatment Recommendations:
Clear Water Iron Clear Water Iron Treatment
Water with clear water iron looks clear at first, and then
develops color or rust after being exposed to air or other Softener with Fine Mesh Resin
oxidants such as chlorine. Clear water is either removed
as clear water iron, or oxidized to a particle form (rust) Greensand , MangOX or Birm
that can then be filtered out. Iron Filters
Red Water Iron Red Water Iron Treatment
If all the iron in the water is found as red water iron,
then a cartridge type filter, or a backwashing sand filter Greensand , MangOX or Birm
can remove it. However it is more common that even Iron Filters
though the water contains red water iron, it also contains
some clear water iron as well. Filter cartridge system
Organic Iron Organic Iron Treatment
Organic iron and tannins present special water treatment
challenges. Tannins are natural organics produced by Chlorine, Ozone or Hydrogen
vegetation which stain water a tea-color. Organic iron is Peroxide treatment followed by
a compound formed from an organic acid such as tannin activated carbon, and Greensand
or humic acids and iron. Organic iron and tannins can or MangOX Iron Filters
occur in very shallow wells, or wells being affected by
surface water. Tannin Filter System
Bacterial Iron Bacterial Iron Treatment
Iron bacteria are organisms that consume iron to survive
and, in the process, produce deposits of iron, and a red Chlorine, Ozone or Hydrogen
or brown slime called a "biofilm." The organisms are Peroxide treatment followed by
not harmful to humans, but can make an iron problem activated carbon, and Greensand ,
much worse. Indications of iron bacteria include a red or MangOX or Birm Iron Filters
yellow color to the water, slime on the inner walls of the
toilet tank, and/or odors that resemble fuel oil, cucumber Periodic Well Chlorination and
or sewage. These organisms naturally occur in shallow Greensand or MangOX Iron filter.
soils and groundwater, and they may be introduced into
a well or water system when it is constructed or
repaired.

Iron Treatment Methods and Considerations

Check for Pipe Corrosion and Scale Build-up

Unless your home is new, it is important to check for pipe corrosion scale build-up in the piping. Fortunately this is
not difficult to do by using one of the following methods:
 • Check for signs of blue stains in fixtures, blue stains in toilet tanks, which can indicate
copper corrosion, and/or test water for copper.
 • If you have galvanized iron pipe, look for signs of rust and rustcolored scale in the
toilet flush tank.
 • If possible, inspect the exterior of pipes and valves, to see if you see any signs of
pinhole leaks or corrosion by-products which can be crusty, bluish, white or salty
looking or rusty. If you are having any plumbing work done on your house, inspect any
sections of the pipes that have been cut to see if there is any scale build-up or signs of
corrosion.
Identify Pipe Sizes
It is useful to know the size of your incoming pipes. For instance, sayyou decide you want to in stall calcite
neutralizer for your house. They come in different pipe sizes, such as 3/4" pipe, 1" pipe etc. Generally, you want to
make certain you get a system that will not restrict the water flow or pressure, so if you have a 1" pipe, you would
want a calcite neutralizer that has 1" pipe connectors. Knowing what size piping you have solves this problem.
It is easy to check the size of your pipes. First, check on the pipe itself, often it will be labeled or written on the side.
If not, the string method which measures the circumference is probably the best way to determine your pipe size.
Circumference is the distance it takes to go around the pipe once.
Remove any insulation from the pipe. Using a piece of string about 6" long (or a cloth tape measure) wrap the string
around the pipe once and measure to the nearest 1/8 of an inch. Once you have found the circumference, use the
chart below to find your pipe or tube size.

Oxidizing Iron Filters That Also Remove H2S

These iron filters oxidize the dissolved ferrous iron in water to an insoluble particle and trap the iron (rust) in the iron
filter media. Some also remove hydrogen sulfide gas along with the iron. A periodic backwash cleans out the rust and
flushes the filter media clean. Various types of iron filter media are available including Birm, Greensand, MangOX,
Filox©, & Pyrolox©.

Oxidizing iron filters use either air, chlorine potassium permanganate, hydrogen peroxide or ozone to aid the filter
media in oxidizing the iron. Note that Birm and Greensand are media that are coated with manganese dioxide,
whereas Filox©, MangOX©, and Pyrolox© are all solid manganese dioxide media which perform similar to each
other. Catalytic carbon is used with hydrogen peroxide and is the only media not containing manganese dioxide.

Pipe Circumference to
Pipe Size Chart
Copper Pipe or PEX tubing
2.75" (70mm) = 3/4" pipe
3.53" (90mm) = 1" pipe
4.32" (110mm) = 1 1/4" pipe
5.10" (130mm) = 1 1/2" pipe

Steel Pipe or PVC Plastic Pipe

3.25" (83mm) = 3/4" pipe
4.00"(102mm) = 1" pipe
5.00"(127mm) = 1 1/4" pipe
6.00"(152mm) = 1 1/2" pipe

Flexible Polyethylene Pipe

2.96-3.33" (75-85mm) = 3/4" pipe
3.74-4.24" (95-108mm) = 1" pipe
4.90-5.57" (124-141mm) = 1 1/4" pipe
5.70-6.28" (145-160mm) = 1 1/2" pipe

Air Injector Birm Iron filter

Greensand Iron Filter

Comparison of Oxidizing Iron Filters

* Backwash per square foot refers to the Gallons Per Minute required to backwash one square foot of the media. As an
example, a 14" diameter tank has approximately a square foot surface area of 1 square foot. A 10" diameter tank has a
square feet area of 0.5 square foot. So a 1.5 cubic foot Birm iron filter in a 10" x 54" tank would require 5 gallons per
minute for backwash, whereas a MangOX filter would require a backwash flow rate of 8 to 12 GPM.

Birm and Birm Blend Iron Filters

Use Venturi-type air injectors to inject air

Birm is a trademark name of the Clack Corp and uses a type of granular filter media called "Birm". It is manufactured
from a type of natural pumice mineral coated with manganese dioxide. As the water flows through the filter tank
containing Birm media, a reaction occurs where the dissolved oxygen and the dissolved ferrous iron compounds form
an insoluble ferric hydroxide. In plain English, as water containing iron flows through the media, if there is enough
oxygen in the water, the Birm causes the iron to form rust, or solid iron particles. After these rust particles get
trapped in the filter media, once or twice a week they are automatically backwashed out to drain, and the filter
media is ready to filter again.
Birm is cheaper than other iron filter media such as Filox or MangOX, but it has several limitations. It does not
remove manganese or hydrogen sulfide gas which are often found in well water containing iron. It cannot be used if
the water is chlorinated, and it is quickly fouled by iron bacteria.
In most cases, Birm requires an air injector system to be able to work effectively. Birm will not work well if the pH is
less than 6.9 to 7.0. Birm media generally needs to be changed every 3 to 4 years for most residential applications.
Birm is sometimmes blended with other media such as FilterAg, Chemsorb, Calcite and/or Corosex. The FilterAg or
Chemsorb media help remove sediment. If the pH is less than 7.0, Calcite (a type of natural calcium media) and/or
Corosex (magnesium) is added to the media to raise the pH up to neutral (7.0 to 7.4) range.
Air Injector + Birm •Blend Iron Filter ("Terminator" brand)

• Removes Ferrous & Ferric Iron

• Does not remove manganese
• Not recommended for hydrogen sulfide "rotten-egg" odor
• Not recommended when iron bacteria is present
• Untreated water cannot have chlorine, tannin, or oil in it
• Lighter than other iron filters, works on well with lower flow rates

Typical installation of a air-injecting venturi-type Birm-Blend iron filter system:

How It Works: An 1" NPT pipe size air-injector is installed after the pump before the well pressure tank. When the
well pump runs, water flows past the air injector and air is drawn into the water.
The water flows through the airvent tank where excess air is released before flowing through the iron filter tank.
Some pressure drop will occur through the air injector, but if your well can produce at least 8 gallons per minute at
30 PSI then the pressure loss is usually not noticeable.

Birm Blend Air Compressor Systems

This type of iron filter uses a compressor to inject air into the water. This is a substantial improvement over the
venturi-type air injector, because a much larger volume of air is injected.
This is more effective at eliminating sulfur odors and oxidizing higher levels of iron without the use of chemical
oxidizers such as chlorine.
There is less pressure drop after the system with this type of iron filter because it does not rely on a venturi type air
injector. Unlike air-injectors which can be clogged and need to be cleaned periodically, the air compressor produces a
reliable and large volume of air to oxidize iron without chemicals oxidizers.
One result of the air compressor is that the water itself does become saturated with tiny air bubbles. Often when first
drawing the water in a glass, the water may appear white, but it instantly clears as the air leaves the water.

• Removes Ferrous & Ferric Iron

• Does not remove manganese
• Not recommended for hydrogen sulfide "rotten-egg" odor
• Not recommended when iron bacteria is present
• Untreated water cannot have chlorine, tannin, or oil in it
• Lighter than other iron filters, works on well with lower flow rates

Typical installation air-injecting compressor-type Birm-Blend iron filter system:

How It Works: The compressor injects the air in a special type of airvent tank which allows some minutes of
contact time for the oxygen to dissolve in the water, and also allow for venting of excess air and gasses.
After the water is aerated the Birm iron filter removes the oxidized iron, periodically flushing it automatically out to
drain.
If the pH is less than 6.8 a Birm Blend filter using a combination of calcite and Birm can be used in the same tank.
For levels less than 6.0 a separate neutralizer tank or a soda ash feeder is used.
Greensand Iron Filters

Uses potassium permanganate or chlorine bleach to kill odors and filter iron, manganese, and sulfide residue
Greensand filter media has a special coating of manganese dioxide, which oxidizes iron, manganese and iron in
water, upon contact with the filter media.
Greensand is not affected by chlorination and works over a wider pH range. Greensand iron filters remove
manganese and hydrogen sulfide.
To provide the oxidizing power to precipitate iron and manganese the iron filter is automatically cleaned and restored
with potassium permanganate (a purple liquid) during each backwash cycle. As an alternative to using potassium
permanganate powder, a chlorine injector pump is used ahead of the greensand-plus filter to regenerate the filter
media. Greensand media generally needs to be replaced every 4 to 6 years.
For treating water with both hydrogen sulfide "rotten-egg" odor in it, and/or iron bacteria, it is best to chlorinate the
water prior the greensand filter. The injection of chlorine substantially increases the effectiveness of the greensand
media, and allows it to work without the use of potassium permanganate and remove higher levels of iron and
manganese.

• Removes Ferrous & Ferric Iron

• Removes manganese
• Removes low levels of hydrogen sulfide "rotten-egg" odor
• Not affected by iron bacteria
• Works with chlorinated water.

What is "Potassium Permanganate"? Potassium Permanganate (KMnO4) is a purpleblack powder and powerful
oxidizer. It is used with greensand iron filters to regenerate , clean and restore the oxidizing capability of the
greensand iron filter media.

How it Works: Water flows in from the top down through the
Greensand Media, removing iron, manganese and sediment., Filtered
water flows down to the distributor screen, up the distributor tube, and out
to the household piping. Once or twice a week, the Fleck 7000-SXT control
valve timer starts a backwash and rinse, called a 'regeneration' cycle. This
typically occurs in the middle of the night and is completely automatic.
During the regeneration cycle, the Greensand media is first backwashed
thoroughly. During the backwash, water flows down the distributor
tube and up through the Greensand media and out to drain, flushing out the
accumulated iron and manganese and sediment.
After the backwash, some permanganate solution is sucked out of the
permanganate tank, and the greensand is rinsed and regenerated
restoring the exhausted media to a fresh state where it can continue to
remove iron and manganese. The permanganate solution is rinsed out in two
rinse cycles, and more water fills the permanganate tank and makes more
permanganate solution from the permanganate powder that is in the
permanganate tank.
Eventually the powder runs out, and fresh permanganate powder is added to the tank, typically once every 3 to 4
months.

Manganese Dioxide Filters (MangOX©, Filox©, Pyrolox©)

Batch Regeneration Type

Unlike Birm and Greensand which are coated with a manganese oxide coating, these types of iron filters use a
natural mined solid manganese oxide ore in a relatively pure form.

The iron filters utilize an oxidation-reduction reaction and filtraation process similar to Greensand, but at a much
higher level of performance. MangOX for example contains greater than 85% manganese dioxide whereas Greensand
contains around 1%. MangOX and other solid manganese dioxide media are very heavy and require a strong
backwash flow rate to lift and clean the solid manganese dioxide mineral filter media.

An optional solution tank that contains chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide automatically cleans and restores the
media in a process known as a "batch regeneration", as opposed to continuous regeneration where chlorine is fed
into the water continuously ahead of the filter.

These filters are automatically backwashed every 1 to 3 days to keep the heavy media from fouling. The MangOX
media out performs Greensand and Birm due to the purity of its particles combined with the superior oxidation,
filtration capacity, and durability.

MangOX often lasts for 10 years or more, especially when used with a chlorine, peroxide or ozone feed. It is the
highest performing iron filter media is works great with chlorinated water, or regenerated intermittently with chlorine
or peroxide.

• Removes Ferrous & Ferric Iron

• Removes manganese
• Removes low levels of hydrogen sulfide "rotten-egg" odor
• Not affected by iron bacteria
• Works with chlorinated water.
 How it Works:

Water flows in from the top down through the MangOX Plus Media, removing
iron, manganese and sediment., Filtered water flows down to the distributor
screen, up the distributor tube, and out to the household piping. Once or twice a
week, the Fleck 7000 control valve timer starts a backwash and rinse, called a
'regeneration' cycle. This typically occurs automatically in the middle of the
night.
During regeneration, the MangOX Plus media is first backwashed thoroughly.
During the backwash, water flows down the distributor tube and up through the
MangOX media and out to drain, flushing out the accumulated iron and
manganese and sediment.
After the backwash, the chlorine or hydrogen peroxide solution is sucked out of
the solution tank, and the MangOX is rinsed and regenerated restoring the
exhausted media to a fresh state where it can continue to remove iron and
manganese. Any residual chlorine or peroxide is rinsed out to drain.
Maintenance consists of adding 1 cup of household bleach or hydrogen peroxide
to solution tank once every 1 to 2 weeks.

Manganese Dioxide Filters (MangOX©, Filox©, Pyrolox©) Continuous Regeneration:

Chlorine or Hydrogen Peroxide Feed

This method is called "Continuous Regeneration". Unlike standalone greensand or MangOX filters which use
permanganate, chlorine or peroxide to regenerate the media intermitiently with each backwash, the MangOX media
is "continually" regenerated.

The chlorine feed ahead of the iron filter super-charges the media and allows it to remove high levels of iron,
manganese and hydrogen sulfide. Coliform and iron bacteria are killed, and tannins are oxidized. This type of iron
filter system handles the worst type of water reliably and effectively.

How it Works: A small chlorinator pump automatically injects a small amount of chlorine or peroxide ahead of the
iron filter. The system can use either chlorine or hydrogen peroxide. The chlorine pump is installed so that when your
well pump turns on, the chlorine pump turns on, and injects a small amount of chlorine bleach or hydrogen peroxide.

The chlorine (or peroxide, or ozone) allows the MangOX-Plus filter media to remove high levels of iron, manganese &
hydrogen sulfide. Iron bacteria are killed and the life of the MangOX media is extended up to 10 years. For most
applications, no contact tank is needed, and the chlorine taste and odor is removed by the MangOX media.
For water very high in iron, hydrogen sulfide gas, or coliform bacteria, the optional contact tank is recommended.
• Removes Ferrous & Ferric Iron
• Removes manganese
• Removes low levels of hydrogen sulfide "rotten-egg" odor
• Kills bacteria & disinfects water
• Oxidizes tannins
• No need to use potassium permanganate.
• Works great with chlorine, peroxide or ozone gas

Chlorination controlled by existing well pressure switch. Most common method used. Lowest cost.

Chlorination controlled by Flow Meter "Proportional Feed". Allows chlorine injection point to be after
pressure tank, or at point of use or entry to home.
Iron, Manganese & Odors Well Water Treatment CHEAT SHEET
Another source:

https://www.canada.ca/en/health-canada/services/environmental-workplace-health/reports-
publications/water-quality/what-your-well-guide-well-water-treatment-maintenance.html

What's In Your Well? - A Guide To Well Water Treatment And

Maintenance

Introduction
Typically, groundwater is naturally clean and safe for consumption. Because the overlying soil
acts as a filter, groundwater is usually free of disease-causing microorganisms. However,
contamination may occur following improper installation of well casings or caps, after a break in
the casing or as a result of contaminated surface water entering the well. Contamination can also
occur if wells are drilled in fractured bedrock without an adequate layer of protective soil and
with less than the recommended minimum casing length.

In order to prevent illness, wells should be properly maintained and the water regularly tested for
the presence of microbial contaminants. Well water should also be tested occasionally for
possible inorganic and organic chemical contaminants.

Well Maintenance

Proper siting, location, construction and maintenance of your well will help to minimize the
likelihood of contamination. The well cap should be checked regularly to ensure that it is
securely in place and watertight. Joints, cracks and connections in the well casing should be
sealed. Pumps and pipes should also be checked on a regular basis, and any changes in water
quality should be investigated.

Surface drainage should be directed away from the well casing, and surface water should not
collect near the well. The well itself should not be located downhill from any source of pollution.

Well water should be tested for bacteriological quality regularly and for chemical contamination
if it is suspected. In addition to regular tests, well water should be tested immediately if there is
any change in its clarity, colour, odour or taste, or if there has been a change in the surrounding
land use. Through regular assessment and testing of drinking water, the microbial and chemical
safety of your well water can be verified.

Testing Well Water for Microbiological Contamination

New wells should be disinfected by the well driller at the time of construction to eliminate any
microbiological contamination that may have occurred during drilling. This should be
donebefore collecting a sample for microbiological testing. Existing wells should be tested two
or three times a year. The best time to sample your well water is when the probability of
contamination is greatest. This is likely to be in early spring just after the thaw, after an extended
dry spell, following heavy rains or after lengthy periods of non-use.

Depending on the province, bacteriological testing of well water is done either by the provincial
health laboratory in your area or by a certified private laboratory. They will supply you with a
clean, sterile sample bottle and the necessary instructions. Samples collected in any other
container will not yield meaningful results and will not be accepted by the laboratory. In all
instances, samples should be refrigerated immediately and transported to the laboratory within
24 hours.

If you have experienced gastrointestinal illness and suspect that it might be associated with your
well water, consult your physician and local health unit.

Interpreting the Results of Testing

The microbiological quality of your water is determined by looking for the presence of bacteria
indicative of faecal (sewage) contamination - namely, total coliforms andEscherichia coli. Total
coliforms occur naturally in soil and in the gut of humans and animals. Thus, their presence in
watermay indicate faecal contamination.E. coli are present only in the gut of humans and
animals. Their presence therefore indicatesdefinitefaecal (sewage) pollution.

Total Coliforms

The presence of total coliform bacteria in well water is a result of surface water infiltration or
seepage from a septic system. According to Health Canada'sGuidelines for Canadian Drinking
Water Quality (Sixth Edition, 1996), drinking water should not contain more than 10 total
coliform bacteria per 100 mL of water. Any water containing more than this amount should be
resampled. If the repeat sample contains more than 10 total coliform bacteria per 100 mL,
corrective action should be taken immediately.

Water containing fewer than 10 total coliform bacteria per 100 mL is considered marginally safe
to drink. Nevertheless, the water should be resampled. If fewer than 10 total coliform bacteria
per 100 mL are detected, the cause of contamination should be determined if possible and
corrective action taken as appropriate.

E. coli

E. coli appear in water samples recently contaminated by faecal matter; thus, they indicate the
possible presence of disease-causing bacteria, viruses or protozoa. Water containing E. coli is not
safe to drink. Corrective action should be taken immediately.

The maximum acceptable concentration ofE. coli is "0" per 100 mL of water.

Corrective Action for Water that Does Not Meet the Recommended Guidelines
If test results show an unacceptable level of total coliforms orE. coli, it is necessary to shock
treat the well and, if possible, find and eliminate the source of contamination. Disinfection can be
done using unscented household bleach. Table 1 outlines the quantity of bleach required to
properly disinfect new and existing wells. If the source of contamination cannot be found and
eliminated, the water should subsequently receive continuous disinfection.

Table 1: Disinfection of Well Water with Unscented Household Bleach (Approximately 5.2%
Hypochlorite)

Volume of bleach added

Depth of water in well Casing diameter 15 cm (drilled) Casing diameter 90 cm (dug)

New well Existing well New well Existing well

New wells require a chlorine concentration of 250 parts per million (ppm) for effective
disinfection, whereas existing wells require 50 ppm chlorine.
1.0 m 100 mL 20 mL 3.2 L 0.6 L

3.0 m 300 mL 60 mL 9.8 L 2.0 L

5.0 m 500 mL 100 mL 16.5 L 3.0 L

10.0 m 1000 mL 200 mL 32.0 L 6.5 L

Steps for Chlorine Disinfection

1. Add the amount of unscented bleach determined in Table 1 to the bottom of the well and then
agitate the water. Connect a garden hose to a nearby tap and wash down the inside wall of the
well. This will ensure thorough mixing of the chlorine and the water throughout the well.

2. Start the pump and bleed air from the pressure tank. Open each tap and allow the water to run
through all taps until a smell of chlorine is detected, then turn off the taps. If a strong smell is
not detected, add more bleach to the well.

3. Allow the water to sit in the system for 12-24 hours.

4. Start the pump and run water through the outside hose away from grass and shrubbery until the
strong smell of chlorine disappears. Make certain that the water does not enter any
watercourse. Finally, open the indoor taps until the system is completely flushed.

5. Wait 48 hours, then sample the water using the instructions and bottle provided by the
laboratory. In the meantime, find another source of water, or boil the water for one minute
before drinking it. Two consecutive "safe" tests, performed on samples obtained over a period
of one to three weeks, will probably indicate that the treatment has been effective.
 6. If the shock treatment solves the problem, repeat bacteriological testing in three to four
months.

7. If the above steps do not alleviate the problem, it is recommended that the source of the
ongoing contamination be determined and corrected, possibly with professional help. If
remediation is not possible, a permanent alternative solution, such as a new well or a drinking
water disinfection device, should be considered.

Water Treatment Devices for Home Use

The water quality problems described in this fact sheet may be resolved by use of a drinking
water treatment unit. There are a wide variety of such devices available for home use. Health
Canada works closely with NSF International to develop performance standards for water
treatment devices. Consumers are encouraged to purchase products that have been certified to
these standards.

Microbiological Contaminants

If elimination of the source of contamination is not possible after shock chlorine disinfection,
consider the installation of a batch or continuous disinfection system or a new water supply.
Some suitable devices are described in Table 2.

Table 2: Household Drinking Water Disinfection Devices

Water treatment
Uses
method

Distillation Kills all microorganisms.

Kills all microorganisms. Use in conjunction with microfiltration to improve

Ultraviolet light
inactivation and remove particulate matter, including parasites.

Kills bacteria and viruses. Use in conjunction with microfiltration to improve

Chlorination
inactivation and remove particulate matter, including parasites.

Kills harmful microorganisms. Use in conjunction with microfiltration to improve

Ozonation
inactivation and remove particulate matter, including parasites.

Ceramic candle
Removes parasites and bacteria. Use in conjunction with chlorination to kill viruses.
filtration

Chemical Contaminants

Well water should also be tested for hazardous chemicals whenever contamination is suspected.
Chemical analysis of water samples can be provided by commercial testing laboratories. Some
provincial health laboratories will analyse water for nitrate, which typically originates from
farming activities and seepage from septic tanks. High concentrations of nitrate may cause "blue
baby syndrome" (methaemoglobinaemia), a condition in which methaemoglobin cannot release
oxygen to body tissues, and which mostly affects infants under three months of age. Other
chemical contaminants of concern include pesticides, heavy metals and volatile organic
compounds. Guidelines for Canadian Drinking Water Quality provides a list of maximum
acceptable concentrations for these chemicals. If hazardous chemical contaminants are detected,
you should consider the installation of a treatment device or a new water supply. Some suitable
units are listed in Table 3.

Table 3: Chemical Removal Devices

Water treatment
Uses
method

Should not be used with microbiologically unsafe waters or water of unknown

microbiological quality.
Activated carbon
Removes organic compounds, including pesticides.
filtration

Removes heavy metals and nitrates; often used in combination with activated
Reverse osmosis
carbon filters.

Removes heavy metals and nitrates; often used in combination with activated
Distillation
carbon filters.

Removes organic compounds, including pesticides; often used in combination

Ozonation
with activated carbon filters.

Hardness, Taste, Odour and Colour

Well water contains naturally occurring minerals, such as calcium, iron and sulphur. Although
these minerals are not hazardous to human health, they can alter the hardness, taste, odour or
colour of the water when present in excess quantities. Groundwaters may also contain natural
organic materials (tannins). Table 4 describes some signs that may indicate the presence of these
substances in your well water and some solutions. In order to select the best treatment method, a
full testing of the suite of minerals should be conducted prior to the purchase of a device.

Table 4: Common Aesthetic Water Quality Problems and Solutions

Problem Cause Solutions

Individuals on sodium-restricted diets should consult their physician before drinking

artificially softened water. Iron and manganese can also be removed by a softener, provided the
water is not too hard.
 Table 4: Common Aesthetic Water Quality Problems and Solutions

Problem Cause Solutions

Water softeners
Hard water (scales/deposits in kettles and water
Excess calcium Reverse osmosis
heaters)
Distillation

Chlorination-
filtration
Rusty (red to brown) staining of fixtures and Greensand
Excess iron
laundry and/or metallic taste filtration
Aeration-filtration
Distillation

Chlorination-
filtration
Black staining of fixtures and laundry and/or Greensand
Excess manganese
metallic taste filtration
Aeration-filtration
Distillation

Chlorination-
filtration
Rotten egg smell Hydrogen sulphide Greensand
filtration
Aeration-filtration

Reverse osmosis
Water has laxative effect Excess sulphates
Distillation

Turbidity/grittiness Mud/silt/clay/sediment in water Sediment filters

Chlorination-
Organic (tea) colour Tannins filtration
Ozonation-filtration

Another source:

Educational
Resources
What You Need to Know About Owning a Home with a Well
Apr 20, 2018 | Hard Water, Water & Home Living

A home away from the hustle and bustle of city life is a dream come true for many families. But,
if you’re considering a move to the country or have recently purchased a house in a rural area,
you could be in for a few surprises.

One of the most significant differences between city and country living is where your home’s
water comes from. In many rural homes, you’ll have a private well rather than water supplied
and treated by a municipality. Well water may look, taste, and smell differently than water from
a city home. It may also create unwanted effects on bathing, housecleaning, and laundry.

There are more than 15 million homes with well water in the United States, and it is generally
safe to use and consume. However, there are some things you should know about owning a home
with a private well that will reduce health and safety risks while making sure your family has
quality water that makes life easy and enjoyable.

When you own a home with a private well, the safety and quality of the water is your
responsibility. Well water almost always requires some softening and filtration to make it ideal
for drinking, cooking, and cleaning. Here are several other things you should know …
1. Well Water Comes Straight from the Ground
Well water is groundwater that is untreated. Well drillers drill down to the aquifer, which is an
underground layer of permeable rock containing water. Then, a pump system is installed to carry
the water up from the ground and into your home.

It isn’t hard to find drinkable groundwater. But, since groundwater is essentially rain that has
moved through the soil and into an aquifer, it can absorb a lot of other things along the way.
There’s much more in your well water than H2O.

How a private residence accesses an aquifer (Courtesy

EPA)

2. Well Water is Usually Hard

Because water is an incredible solvent, groundwater will dissolve organic matter, including
minerals found in the soil and rocks beneath the Earth’s surface. The minerals calcium and
magnesium are what make well water hard.

Unless you live in a region where there is naturally less of these minerals, a home with a private
well will likely require a water softener. If you’re building a home in the country without access
to municipal water, a softening system should be installed. If you purchase an existing home, it
may already have a water softener. Keep in mind, the equipment may need to be updated
to efficiently and effectively treat your well water.

Discover signs your water softener needs to be replaced, or consider having a free water quality
analysis to find out how to fix problems with your well water. If you’re unfamiliar with water
treatment equipment, you can learn more about how water softeners work on our blog.
3. Well Water Can be Smelly and Cause Staining

When moving into an old farmhouse, you may notice stains on fixtures and in sinks, tubs, and
toilets. Some of this could be lime scale due to hardness, however, the most frustrating stains
from well water come from high iron content.

Iron is not a safety concern, but it can be a major nuisance, changing the taste of your water and
causing unsightly orange stains that are difficult to remove. While there are tips and tricks for
removing iron stains, the only way to get rid of them for good is to install special iron filtration
systems.

Water-Right offers the Impression Series® Air Filters and Impression Plus Series® Air Filters,
which oxidize dissolved iron so it can be filtered out of your water. This water treatment
equipment can also filter out sulfur, which is another common well water problem. Sulfur is
usually to blame for water that smells like rotten eggs.

In some cases, special water treatment media, such as Crystal-Right™, can be used to remove
iron and reduce sulfur odor from well water. This specialized material can also soften water at
the same time, reducing the number of treatment equipment systems needed for your home.
You’ll need a local water treatment expert to evaluate your situation and recommend the best
solution. Find out about other reasons why your water smells.

4. Well Water Can Become Contaminated

Most common problems with well water are simply aesthetics, but there can also be more serious
concerns. While groundwater found in private wells is less susceptible to pollution than surface
water, it is certainly possible for wells to become contaminated.
Naturally occurring contaminants include elements such as uranium, radon, and arsenic, which
are dissolved in groundwater as it moves through soil and rock. These chemicals are found at
different levels in different regions of the United States. Your local water treatment expert can
help you understand risks specific to your part of the country.

You can also check out our Regional Water Roadmap and articles in the Regional Water
Problems series to research typical concerns:

 Water quality problems in the Northeast

 Water quality problems in the Great Lakes states
 Water quality problems in the Midwest/Plains
 Water quality problems in the Southeast
 Water quality problems in Mountain states
 Water quality problems on the West Coast

Contamination from agricultural runoff is one of the most common and problematic health and
safety issues. Septic tanks located too close to a private well can also cause contamination. One
of the biggest concerns is nitrate contamination. At elevated levels, nitrates pose a health risk to
pregnant mothers and young children.

The EPA has more about well water contaminants and their potential impact.

The best way to get peace of mind about potential well water contaminants is to have a reverse
osmosis (R.O.) drinking water system installed in your home. An R.O. system is a special form
of water filtration that greatly reduces trace elements, heavy metals, and bacteria, producing
great-tasting water for drinking and cooking – right from the kitchen sink!

Find out more about the benefits of reverse osmosis water and how an R.O. system works.

5. Well Water Must be Tested at Least Once a Year

The quality of well water is constantly changing, and the best way to protect your family is to
have your well tested. While it isn’t required by the government, it’s an essential step to keep
your family safe. The EPA recommends that you test your well once a year for E. coli and
coliform bacteria at the absolute minimum. You should also test your water for radon and
arsenic, minerals such as iron, manganese, nitrate levels, and any volatile organic compounds to
ensure your home’s water is safe.

If you do notice a change in water quality, (appearance, odor, taste, etc.) it’s a good idea to have
your well tested, even if it hasn’t been a year since the last test.

There are at-home, out-of-the-box tests you can purchase and perform yourself. When you go
this route, it is important to read what exactly the kit is testing for – not all tests are created
equal.

All Water-Right, Evolve, and WaterCare professionals have access to our state-certified Clean
Water Testing laboratory. They can collect samples from your well, send them to our lab, and
provide you with reports on water quality. When your water is examined by Clean Water
Testing, you get the peace of mind knowing your water is professionally tested by a state-
certified lab. You’ll also have the added convenience and confidence to review results with a
professional water treatment expert.

Buying a Home with a Private Well

Knowing area water concerns can help you take proactive measure towards protecting your well.
Find out if there are known water issues in the area and if there are any contamination concerns
due to runoff from agriculture or nearby industrial activity.

Before moving into a house with a well, learn about the well’s history, condition, and capacity
by asking the current owner for a history log. This will help you identify what has been done to
the well in the past, how much it holds, and what the flow rate is to see if it will meet your
household’s needs. It’s also a good idea to ask what the home’s seller is currently doing to treat
the water.

Read about specific signs of problems with private wells and continue to educate yourself.

Groundwater quality differs greatly and changes frequently. Your home may have completely
different water problems than your neighbor’s down the road. That’s why the advice of a trusted,
local water treatment expert can be so valuable.

Having a private well shouldn’t discourage you from moving into that dream house in the
country. You simply need the right partner to help you make sure your home’s water quality is
right for your family’s needs.

All Water-Right dealers are equipped to help you with your

problem water needs.
No matter the issue, Water-Right’s network of experts can come to your home and provide
a water quality analysis, helping you identify solutions to your problems that leave you with the
right water for life.

 Impression Series® & Sanitizer Plus® Products

 WaterCare® Products
 Evolve® Products

Click the links above to visit the websites of our trusted brands. You can use the ‘Find a Dealer’
tool to locate a professional near you.