Basic Bodice Drafting

Drafting a Basic Bodice Block
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This is a tutorial exclusive to angelakane.com Members.

I have covered many of the basic skills needed to construct some classic clothes. The next
stage which nearly everyone wants to learn is how to draft patterns yourself and especially,
cutting patterns to your own measurement. It's quite achievable with a little knowledge. You
want to experiment and not worry about things being perfect to start with.
Get some cheap fabric, calico or old sheets will do just as well. Be honest about your
measurements. Very few of us fit into the standard mould and understanding your own shape
is the key.
This is all the equipment you need to draft a block from your measurements:
A sharp pair of scissors
A tape measure
A metre rule
Sharp Pencils
Rubber
And most importantly, a nice large set square
Pattern Paper
I buy my pattern paper on a roll, it lasts a very long time if you are serious about drafting your
own patterns but you can buy sheets by the pack. It can be marked off in inches or every 2½
cm
I prefer plain paper. Brown paper will do. Some people use newspaper although I wouldn't
recommend it as it can leave ink marks on your fabric.
-1-
Copyright © Angela Kane 2005-2013 - All rights reserved. No part of this document may be published or distributed without permission of the copyright holder
Taking Your Measurements Bust 33½"
Here are the measurements I am using for the Basic Waist 26½"
Bodice Block. Hips 35½"
I'm purposefully not using a standard size as this is the
Back Waist 15½"
whole point of drafting a block to fit. Use my form for
your own measurements. Chest Width 13"
See "Appendix B - Measurement Form" on page 18 Back Width 13½"
Shoulder 4½"
Upper Arm 11½"
The Bust
First of all you need the measurement
around the fullest part of the Bust.
This rises a little at the back. Around the Take the tape
fullest part measure up a
This measurement will also be used to of the bust little at the
determine some of the variables. back to allow
for movement
-2-
The Waist The true
Around the Waist - not too tight.
waist but
Keep your tape measure lose. not tight
Around the This is usually The Hips

Hips at their found to be 8-9"
widest point 8-9" 8-9" below the Waist The Hip measurement is usually taken
about 8 or 9" below the waist.
It must be where the widest
measurement occurs and take a note
of how far down from the waist it is.
-3-
The Back Waist Length
From the bone at the nape of the
neck to the waist.
Back waist length
- from the nape of
Being a petite person myself, I have the neck to the
always appreciated how important
waist line
this measurement is.
Getting it right will solve so many
fitting problems.
Stand erect
The Chest Width

Chest Width - 4
This measurement will make or
down from the break your block and you may
hollow of the neck. need to experiment if you get it
wrong first time.
It is taken from about 4½ - 5"
from base of neckline standing
nice and straight.
-4-
Stand relaxed
The Back Width
This measurement is taken 4 - 4½" 4-4
from the nape of the neck.
Back Width -
down from the
Don't stand quite so erect as you
want to allow for a certain amount nape of the neck.
of stooping with comfort.
From the Neck

Point to the
edge of the Shoulder Length
shoulder bone From neck to the edge of
the bone on the shoulder.
-5-
Around top arm
below
Around Upper Arm shoulder point
Around the fullest part of the
arm with the tape measure in the 4-4
armpit.
Keep the tape measure quite lose.
Take this
measurement
with a little ease
See "Appendix B - Measurement Form"

on page 18 Print and fill in your
measurements.
If you have doubts about any
measurements, use the one closest to
the standard size for your bust and hips.
-6-
Draft the Bodice Block
Whenever I say 'Check for Variables' refer to details of
variables that are dependent on size.
See "Appendix A - Drafting Variables" on page 17
Draft an Initial Rectangle CB CF
Cut a piece of paper 30" long and half hips (or bust,
which ever is larger) wide + 3" or so. For larger sizes
add 5" or so.
Rule a line along the length 1" or so from the left edge. Mark the Centre
This is centre back. Back (CB) and
Centre Front Lines
Square off a line across the top of the page. This is (CF)
the Top Line.
Label Centre Back line CB.
For our Centre Front line you want to measure at least
half bust plus 2-3" or half hips plus 1½" which ever
is the larger but you can draft this line further away
if you like. The important thing is that you want to
avoid the back and front bodice overlapping
So label this line CF for Centre Front.
So here I show an initial rectangle of half hips plus 3"
wide and at least as long as Back Waist Length plus
10". This will be a bit longer than the final block but
gives us a good bit of room.
-7-
Mark Off Basic Construction Lines
Mark down 1" from the Top Line. This increases
to 1½" for sizes over Bust 38". Check for
variables in my PDF guide.
CB CF
Draw this about a 3rd of the way across. Call
this O. 1” O
Shoulder Line
Using your own Back Waist measurement,
mark down from O for the Waist Line and Back Line
square across to the CF Line. This is the
provisional waist position. Label WP.
Then measure 8¼" from O for the Bust Line Bust
which is also the bottom of the Armhole. This
figure varies depending on Bust by 1/4" for
every 2" size outside the 34-36" range. Bust
36" would be 8½" down, 38" bust line would be
Waist
8¾" down from O. Again check the variables.
Label BL for the Bust Line. Continue this line
across to CF.
Then mark half this measurement down for the
Back Line and rule less than half way across
and label the Back Line. Hips
The shoulder line is 1½" below O. This is the

same for all sizes. Square across and label the
Shoulder Line SL
-8-
Draft the Neckline and Armhole Curves
The neck width is also graded according to bust size
with the addition of an ⅛". Refer to variables.
Measure up from this point ½" for all sizes and add
the label NP for Neck Point.
Join NP and O with a nice curve for the Back
Neckline.
CB
Along the Back Line, measure half the back width
using your own measurements. O
Draw a vertical line through this point and up through SP
the shoulder line and down through the Bust Line.
On the Bust Line measure out 2" for average sizes,
up to 2¾" for large sizes, a little under 2" for small
sizes and label it UP for Underarm Point. Refer to
variables.
On the Shoulder Line measure out ½" and label it SP UP
for Shoulder Point. 2”
Join NP to SP for the Shoulder seam. You can
check the Shoulder Seam Length with your own
measurement.
At the angle on the Bust Line draw a 45 degree guide
line and mark a point 1¼" to 1½" along it. You can
adjust this later if you need a more roomy armhole.
Draw the armhole curve, keeping it pretty flat at
-9-
CB
This is what we have drafted so far NP
CB and CF, Bust, Waist and Hip Lines.
O
The Back Neckline, Shoulder Line and Across SP
Back Line.
We have found the Neck Point, Shoulder
Point and drawn in the back shoulder seam.
We have found the Underarm Point and
drawn in the Back Armhole Curve.
UP
Find the Hip Line
Moving down for the Hips. Measure down
from the Waist Line 8-9" depending on where
your widest hip measurement is. Take this
line across to the Centre Front for the Hip
Line.
Measure out ¼ hip measurement for the Hip
Point. For larger sizes make this a ½" less
than ¼ hip.
Draw a straight line from UP to HP.
To shape the side seam at the waist, measure
in ¾" from where this line crosses the waist
Then measure down ¼". This is the true waist
line.
Redraw the side seam. Shape the side seam HP
passing through this point and flatten out at
- 10 -
Front Bodice
Draft Front Neckline
On the back bodice, point O was an 1" down from
the Top Line. On the Front Bodice it is placed on
the Top Line.
CB CF
NP
Measure the front shoulder line 1¾" below O and O
O
draw across. 1½" below O for 42" bust and over.
See the variables. Label Shoulder Line. SP
3”
Measure the neckline 3" down from O and draw
across. This is the base of the neck. It can be
drawn 3¼" - 3½" down in larger sizes.
Measure neck width from O, (that is without the
⅛" we added on the back neck). The front neck is UP
never less than 2½" wide.
Draw a vertical line down to the Neck Line. Mark
front NP.
Draw a guide line at 45 degrees and measure
along 1 ¾" for the neck curve. Draw in the
neckline shape.
Notice that the front bodice goes right up to the
top Line. Therefore the neck point is ½" higher
than the NP on back bodice and is 1" higher than
O on the back bodice. For 38" + sizes it can be
1½" higher or more. See the variables.
HP
- 11 -
Draft the Shoulder Seam
CB NP CF
From Bust line measure 1½" up for the Chest NP O
line. O shoulder line
SP
Measure from CF along shoulder guide 6½"
(all sizes).
Draw a line from the Neck Point to this point
and extend beyond.
chest line
Prepare Bust Dart Position
UP bust line
Along the Chest Line, measure 1/4 of your 1”
Across Chest measurement from CF and
measure a line up vertically from 1" below
Bust Line to the shoulder line.
HP
- 12 -
Draft the Bust Dart
From the line measured up from the chest line
to the shoulder line, measure a point ¾" to the
left. CB NP CF
NP O
Join this to the point 1" below bustOline for the
Inner Dart Line. SP SP
Then measure the Dart width as 2¾", in this

case, along the shoulder seam from the inner
dart line. This again is a variable depending on
Bust Size. This is usually 3" for bust 36". For
other sizes add or subtract ¼".
UP
Draw a line through this point to the point 1" 1”
below the bust line for the Outer Dart Line.
Taking your shoulder measurement, plus the
2¾", in this case, for the dart width, measure
along the extended shoulder for the SP.
Therefore the distance from NP to SP is your
shoulder length + your dart width.
HP
- 13 -
Calculate Front Bust Width
The back bust width was the across back
measurement of 13½", halved, 6¾". We added
2" giving us the UP. So we have a back bust line
measurement of 8¾".
Then calculate half bust measurement plus 2". So in
this case half the bust measurement 33½" + 2" is 18.¾".
Take away the 8.75 from 18.75 leaves us with 10" for
the front bust width. CB NP CF
So measure 10" for the front bust width to the NP O
Underarm Point. Label UP. O
On the chest line, we want to find the Chest Point. SP
SP
Measure along from CF, ½ chest width, adding on the
dart width at this point. This half chest width is 6½"
and the dart width at this level measures ¾". So Chest
Point CP is 7¼" from CF.
Find the Front Armhole Shape
Draw a line from SP to CP then drop a vertical line to
the bust line. This is a guide for the armhole shape. CP
Find the mid point along the SP/CP line and measure UP UP
½" inside it. 10”
Find the point ½" from the angle on the 45 degree
line.
Draw the armhole line, dipping below the bust line
a little and passing through all the points to the
shoulder.
This curve will match up with the shallower curve of
the back armhole.
You could use a French Curve template but I prefer to
do it by eye and get exactly what I want.
- 14 -
CB NP CF
NP O
Find HP on the Front Bodice O
The width at the hip line is 1½" wider than ¼ SP SP
hip.
Take ¼ hip measurement and add 1½".
For larger sizes add 2" to 2½". Aim for a
balanced side seam, back and front.
Join UP and HP for the hip seam guide.
CP
Mark WP about ½ in from this line and a ¼" UP UP
below the waistline. Draw in the side seam.
Find the True Bust Line and Bust True
Point
x 2”
Draw the True Bust line 2" below bust line

guide. Where this line crosses the line
down from the bust dart point, mark with
WP WP
an X as the highest point of the bust - The
True Bust Point.
Find the True Waist Line
For a true waist, we already have the side
WP a little lower than the waistline guide
(1/4"). Mark the front WP 1/2" lower at CF.
Larger sizes, drop the CF/WP up to an 1"
and up to 1/2" at the side seam.
HP HP
- 15 -
Find the Dart Seam Line Shape
To properly cut the shoulder dart, Cut out your
paper block leaving extra at the shoulder line. Draw
a line through the centre of the dart and fold, pin the
dart with the fold towards the neckline and redraw
the shoulder line from NP to SP. Cut along the new
straight line of the shoulder seam. You will notice eas
e
that the inner bust dart line is a fraction longer than
before.
Check the Armhole Measurement
It should be 4.5 - 5" larger that the top arm
measurement - 11.5" so 16 - 16.5"
A 1/4" difference is OK.
The back shoulder seam should be about ¼-½" x
longer than the front. This is eased or a small dart is
taken out at design stage. Back Front
Label Your Block
Finally make sure you label your block with these Date Date
details and any other notes to remind you of
variations you may want to finalise when you try
your block for size. Measurements Measurements
This block is the basis for dresses without a waist

seam, jackets and coats
There is no allowance for ease . Ease is added at
design stage.
From this draft we can work on the short bodice
block adding dart shaping at the waist
And we will also be using it to draft a Sleeve Block.
- 16 -
Appendix A - Drafting Variables
Pattern Drafting Variables
The Back Bodice

Find O: Measuring down from Top Line to mark O - 1", for over 38" bust 1½".
Find Bust Line: Measuring down from O for Bust Line: 8½" for Bust 36/38". Add
or subtract ¼" for every 2" larger or smaller.
Find Neck Width: 2½" + ⅛" for Bust 36. Add or subtract ⅛" for each size larger
or smaller.
Back Bust Line - Add 2" to Half Back for average sizes. A little less for smaller
sizes. For larger sizes add up to 2¾"
Back Hip Point - For larger sizes make HP ½" or so less than ¼ hip measurement for CB.
The Front Bodice

Find the Shoulder Line: Measure down from O 1¾", for Bust 42" and over 1½".
Find the Base of Neckline: Measure down from O 3". This can be increased to
3¼" - 3½" for larger sizes.
Find the Shoulder Dart Width: For Bust 36" the dart width along the Shoulder is 3".
Add or subtract ¼" for sizes larger or smaller.
Front Hip Line - For larger sizes make HP more than ¼ hip + 1½" to 2" from CF.
Look for balance in the side seam between the back and front at Hip Level.
Find the True Waist: For larger sizes drop the Centre Front Waist Point up to 1"
an up to ½" at the side seam.
- 17 -
Appendix B - Measurement Form
Measurement Form for You to Fill In
DATE
Bust
Waist
Hips
Back Waist
Chest Width
Back Width
Shoulder
Upper Arm
- 18 -

Basic Bodice Drafting

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What are the basic steps to draft a bodice block?

What measurements are needed to draft the bodice block?

Drafting a Basic Bodice Block

eBooks for Members of angelakane.com

This is a tutorial exclusive to angelakane.com Members.

Around the This is usually The Hips

The Chest Width

From the Neck

See "Appendix B - Measurement Form"

The shoulder line is 1½" below O. This is the

Then measure the Dart width as 2¾", in this

Draw the True Bust line 2" below bust line

This block is the basis for dresses without a waist

Pattern Drafting Variables

The Back Bodice

The Front Bodice

Measurement Form for You to Fill In

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