GRADUATION PROJECT REPORT

(2013-2017)

LEE COOPER WOMEN’S COLLECTION

INDUSTRY SPONSOR: M&B FOOTWEAR PVT LTD.

STUDENT NAME: Ms.SANIA ANSARI

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION AND LIFESTYLE ACCESSORIES DESIGN

NATIONAL INSTITUE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, MUMBAI.

LEE COOPER WOMEN’S COLLECTION

Ms.SANIA ANSARI (2013-2017)
LEE COOPER WOMEN’S COLLECTION

INDUSTRY SPONSOR: M&B FOOTWEAR PVT LTD.

GRADUATION PROJECT REPORT

Submitted in partial fulfillment of the Graduation Project of
Fashion and Lifestyle Accessories Department
at National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai.

Student name: SANIA ANSARI

Faculty guide: KUMAR SUDEEPTA

Designation: ASSISTANT PROFESSOR

May. 2017
National Institute of Fashion Technology, Mumbai
 CERTIFICATE

This is to certify that Ms.SANIA ANSARI of Fashion and Lifestyle Accessories

Department at National Institute of Fashion Technology - Mumbai, has been
evaluated for his or her Graduation Project report titled Lee Cooper Collection
and have fulfilled the requirements set by the institute and the evaluation jury. Her
work has been found satisfactory.

…………………………………… ……………………………………
(Faculty Guide) (Centre Coordinator)

…………………………………… ……………………………………
(Joint Director) (Director)

Copyright © 2017 by National Institute of Fashion Technology.

All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording and scanning or otherwise in any form without the written permission of the
copyright owners.

Design: SANIA ANSARI

Printed at: …………………….
Acknowledgement
I would like to extend my sincere gratitude to everyone from NIFT Mumbai
for allowing me to be a part of such a great learning experience. I would
also take this opportunity to extend my heartfelt regards to the faculty
members Mr.Saurabh Kumar, Head of the Accessory Design department,
for his skilled guidance at every step of this programme. I also thank
Mr.Kumar Sudeepta, Assistant Professor, and Department of Accessory
Design for helping me to be a part of this Graduation Project Exposure
Programme.

I would like to thanks Ms.Anuvi Sharma (HR at MBFPL) for introducing me

to this Industry. Special thanks to my mentors Ms. Swati Sharma and
Mr.Sushil Kumar for their suggestions and encouragement. I would like to
express heartfelt gratitude to all the staff at M&B Footwear Pvt. Ltd. who, in
spite of being busy with their own work took out time for me and helped me
throughout this 5 months period. The compilation of this document has been
a great learning experience for me and I am indebted to many people who
helped me in the successful completion of this project.

I am very grateful to all the people I met through this Graduation Project
without whom, it would have been a difficult task to understand the
Production Process of footwear. In my endeavor to bring out the actual
scenario of the production and immensely grateful to the workers. And last
but not the least, my loving appreciation goes to my parents and friends who
continuously supported and encouraged me.
Synopsis
This document consists of a report on M&B Footwear pvt ltd. In this
documented a report on 22 weeks of graduation project done by me under
brand Lee Cooper.
There are two parts to this document. First, the design and manufacturing
process of the industry. Second, the two collections I was required to make,
one for the company and one for my taste and sense of design collection.
Including that, consists of design pictures, tech drawings, information about
the collection and the various boards and color themes for the respective
collections.
Contents:-

• Introduction
• Company profile
• Manufacturing process
• Design Process
• Initial design brief – collection 1
• Information for collection 1
• Market survey
• Client/ User profile
• Demographics – age, gender, Income group
• Possible competitors
• Product price range
• Product material, color & texture
• Product & selected space pictures
• Market analysis
• Trends & Forecast
• Boards
• Color Board
• Material Board
• Texture Board
• Conceptualization
• Initial concepts (explorations)
• Final concepts
• Design Detailing
• Product Rendering
• Technical Drawing
• Final products
• costing
• Initial design brief - collection 2
• Information for collection 2
• Market survey
• Client/ User profile
• Demographics – age, gender, Income group
• Possible competitors
• Product price range
• Product material, colour & texture
• Product & selected space pictures
• Market analysis
• Trends & Forecast
• Boards
• Colour Board
• Material Board
• Texture Board
• Conceptualization
• Initial concepts (explorations)
• Final concepts
• Design Detailing
• Product Rendering
• Technical Drawing
• Final products
• costing
• Conclusion
• Bibliography
Introduction
Graduation Project is the integral part of the course and is intended to give
us exposure and working knowledge towards the functioning of the Industry.
This project is assigned, structured and monitored in such a way that the
students gain the most appropriate and valuable experience. In addition to
learning and industrial exposure during the internship, we are required to
perform the following as part of their Graduation Project.

• Different sections of the unit

• Forecast Research work
• Design Process
• Products & Footwear production processes, and other facilities.
• Pattern making and specification sheet study for the specific products
developed by the company.
• Time study and operational breakdown for Accessories
• Design and execution of 2 collections of 5 products each.
Company Profile
M&B FOOTWEAR PRIVATE LIMITED
It is a leading footwear organization in India, which is into Design,
Production, Retail and Export of leading shoe brands like LEE COOPER, ID
and PROVOGUE, with the prime focus on the product quality; thus
maintaining the integrity and vitality of these extraordinary brands. Within a
short period of time, M&B Footwear has grown multi-fold, and probably is
the only company in India having a portfolio of several national and
international brands.
M&B is spearheaded by Bhai Ajinder Singh, a management Graduate from
North eastern University, Boston (USA) & Inder dev S. Musafir, a Footwear
Technologist from South Fields College, Leicester (U.K).

BHAI JEE AND MUSAFIR JEE

Forecast is done not only on design trends, but also on colour palates for
the forthcoming seasons. The in-house R&D Centre is also supported by
international brand partners through their international product development
and brand guidelines.
M&B Footwear has one of the most sophisticated, state of the art
manufacturing facilities in India. These units are highly scalable and can
quickly respond to the market trends to the market trends and demands.
A dedicated professional team of experts is deployed to monitor all to all
aspects of Sales & Marketing. Brands marketed by M&B Footwear are sold
in over 2000 Doors across India, including some leading large format retail
stores.
It is also known as master of brands. They have manufactures thousands of
pairs of shoes for brands like Firangi, Provogue, Yepme along with Lee
Cooper and ID Shoes. But currently they are only producing for Lee Cooper
and ID Shoes.
About the Brand – LEE COOPER
Lee Cooper Brand is an
English clothing company, operating
worldwide, that licenses the sale of
many Lee Cooper-branded items,
including denim jeans. The head office is
located in London, England. The
company originally produced workwear
for export, and began to specialise in
denim jackets and trousers in the 1930s.
In 2013, Iconix Brand Group acquired Lee Cooper from Sun Capital
Partners.

History
The brand that eventually became Lee Cooper was established in 1908 by
Morris Cooper and a friend, Louis Maister, after they arrived in London
from their hometown in Lithuania (then part of the Russian Empire), having
previously spent some time in South Africa. Operating under the name M.
Cooper (Overalls) Ltd., from premises on Middlesex Street in
London's East End, they began production of work wear, having identified
a market for it in South Africa. During the years of the First World War, M.
Cooper (Overalls), which by then employed over 600 people, halted
production of work wear and began making uniforms, kit bags and
rucksacks for the British Army. In 1937, a new factory dedicated to the
manufacture of denim was opened in Stratford, with the business reporting
a profit of £1,000 by year end. The outbreak of the Second World War in
1939 led Morris Cooper to split the business into two: one arm continued
making work wear, while the other concentrated on producing military
uniforms, battle fatigues and flight overalls. M. Cooper (Overalls)
eventually became one of the biggest suppliers to His Majesty's Armed
Forces.
Post-war

Morris Cooper died in 1940 and his son, Harold Cooper, took over the business
upon his return from active service in the RAF. He set about modernising the
company and building on its wartime success, switching focus to casual wear
and denim production, and taking advantage of the introduction of clothes
rationing to increase competitiveness. As part of a re-branding strategy, the
company was rechristened, with Harold adding a version of his wife's family
name, Leigh, to his own to create "Lee Cooper".
Lee Cooper jeans were adopted by the youth counterculture of the 1950s and
1960s and Harold capitalised on this association by sponsoring a Rolling
Stones tour and working with Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin. The company
caused a degree of moral outrage in 1953 by introducing the zip-front to
women's jeans, and commissioned a series of bold publicity campaigns, some
of them incorporating fictitious designers such as the Italian 'Alfredo Angelous'
in order to appeal to subcultures such as the Mods, who favoured continental
style.
The late 1970s saw expansion of production, with the company opening
factories in Ireland, France and Tunisia, and by the mid 1980s these facilities
were producing between 40,000 and 45,000 garments per week. During this
time, annual turnover grew to more than £100 million. Lee Cooper was also
one of the main pitch side sponsors at the 1984 European Championships in
France.
In 1989, the Cooper family sold their majority stake in the business, and since
then Lee Cooper has become a 'lifestyle' brand, operating in more than seventy
markets across the world. In 2008, the company celebrated its centenary.
COLLECTION - I
Initial Design Brief - Collection – I

To design a casual sneakers collection for women autumn-winter 18/19

season for the brand Lee Cooper. Collection for 18yrs – 24yrs age group.
Sneakers that can be worn outdoors for outings or to offices also.
There are no limitations to types of materials that can be used in the
footwear or accessories or colors.
To study the forecast and come up with a whole new range of sneakers
collection giving s sense of taste of the brand but also something different.
Collection – I

After studying suitable footwear trends and forecast forms and shapes were
explored under the theme Blue Equipment Street Collection Sneakers for
women. Two different forecast themes were collaborated for this collection
that is Urban Equipment and Street Luxe from Worldhood vision trends of
Autumn Winter Women 18/19
Trends and Forecast
Blue Street Collection

Urban Equipment

Street Luxe
Colour Pallet

19-4009 TCX INDIGO UNIFORM

17-5117 TCX CHARGED TEAL

11.0601 TCX
CLIENT: Student
18-24yrs age group
Trendy/Fun-Out going
DESIGN #1
DESIGN #2
DESIGN #3
DESIGN #4
DESIGN #5
COLLECTION – I
PHOTOSHOOT
 Look 1
Theme: Urban Street
Product: Sneakers
 Look 2
Theme: Urban Street
Product: Sneakers
 Look 3
Theme: Urban Street
Product: Sneakers
 Look 3
Theme: Urban Street
Product: Sneakers
 Look 4
Theme: Urban Street
Product: Sneakers
 Look 5
Theme: Urban Street
Product: Sneakers
COLLECTION - II
Initial Design Brief - Collection – II

To explore trends and forecasting and design a women’s footwear collection

in any category presenting my sense of design and taste for the brand Lee
Cooper and come up with a whole new range of footwear collection giving
sense of taste of the brand but also something different.
Collection for women autumn-winter 18/19 season. Collection for 21yrs –
29yrs age group.
There are no limitations to types of materials that can be used in the
footwear or accessories or colors.
Collection – II

After studying suitable footwear trends and forecast forms and shapes were
explored under the theme Dark Baroque Collection. Ankle length Boots for
women. For this collection more then one colours are used for the complete
range and a floral fabric representing dark baroque theme from Dark
Wonder vision trends of Autumn Winter Women 18/19
Trends and Forecast
Dark Baroque Collection

Dark Baroque
Colour Pallet

19-1623 TCX ASTRO PLUM

17-1142 TCX BURNT BRONZE

15.9142 TCX BRONZE

19-1732 TCX DARK BROWN

CLIENT: Working Women
21-29yrs old
Independent
Stylish/Experimental
DESIGN #1 DESIGN #2

DESIGN #3

DESIGN #4 DESIGN #5
COLLECTION – II
PHOTOSHOOT
Theme: Dark Baroque
Look 1: Ethnic
Product: Boots
Theme: Dark Baroque
Look 2: Western
Product: Boots
Manufacturing Process

M&B Footwear has one of the most sophisticated, state of the art
manufacturing facilities in India. 5000 Pairs a day are produced from its two
facilities, one each in Noida and Baddi. The Baddi Plant in Himachal
Pradesh, was set up recently to avail tax benefits from the Govt. of India,
since footwear as a commodity in India attracts the highest tax incidence,
unlike other wearing apparel which for reasons known only to Govt. of India,
are exempted from the heavy tax burden. The Company plans to increase
its production capability through expansion of its manufacturing facilities,
targeting a production of 8000 Pairs a day. This additional capacity would
help in fueling the ever growing demand of the company’s existing brands,
and also to improve on the current supply levels to other footwear giants, to
whom the company is also currently supplying footwear.

VARIOUS OPERATIONS DURING PRODUCTION

Design Process Steps

 Study of trends forecasting


 Mood/Theme Board

 Concept Sketches

 Rendering

 Material Sourcing

 Last masking

 Pattern making

 Digital Pattern making on Cad

 Fabric/Leather pattern cutting

 Stitching

 Lasting
Design and Manufacturing Process Steps

TREND & FORECAST STUDY MOOD/THEME BOARDS

RENDERING
EXPLORATIONS

TECH SHEET
LAST MASKING

STANDARD FORM
PATTERN MAKING

P.T.O
 TECHNICAL DRAWING PATTERNS

TECHNICAL DRAWING

MATERIAL SOURCING

CAD PATTERNS CUTTING

FABRIC PATTERN CUTTING

UPPER STITCHING

SOCKS
LASTING
 OPERATION BREAKDOWN
Per pair

OPERATION TIME TAKEN

• Cutting (click machine) 2 minutes 30 seconds

• Splitting (per component) 1 second
• Skiving 30 seconds
• Logo embossing 10 seconds
• Stamping (per component) 1 second
• Closing ( including gluing,
Toe cap stiffner, fusing) 43 seconds
• Eyelets marking 13 seconds
• Lasting and sole attachment 22 minutes
• Polishing and spraying 26 seconds
• Cleaning, rubbing 2 minutes 15 seconds
• Inspection 50 to 60 seconds
• Packaging 10 seconds
 M&B FOOTWEAR PVT.LTD
COST SHEET

RANGE : EDBERG ID SMART

ARTICLE : ID-0214 DATE: 9.12.2016
COLOUR : BROWN/BEIGE
OS / VS : 40/40--41/41--42/42--43/43--44/44
DESCRIPTION : SLIP ON
LAST : EDBERG

UPPER MATERIAL SPECIFICATIONS CONSUM. UNIT PER PAIR SUPPLIER PRICE UNIT TOTAL
a. CUTTING
UPPER COW TIE & DIE 1.2-1.4MM 18.831 PR INDIAN 13.50SDM 254.21
STREP/COUNTER SPLIT SUEDE 1.2-1.4MM 7.331 PR INDIAN 6.20SDM 45.45
COLLAR LATEX 10 MM. 41.001 PR KUBER 450.00SQM 10.98
QTR/TNG SKINFIT M-1085D 8.001 PR VERSATILE 105.00SQM 13.13
VAMP DRILL EVA COATED 20.001 PR DHINGRA 147.00SQM 7.35
INTERLINING DRILL EVA COATED (THIN) 5.501 PR DHINGRA 125.00SQM 22.73
SOCKS EVA D - 21 WITH DRILL CLOTH 1.001 PR CLASSIC 32.00PRS 32.00
TOE PUFF THERMOPLASTIC 407 (0.9MM) 41.00PRS 391.00SQM 9.54
COUNTER BITREM 330 (1.2 MM) 30.00PRS 251.00SQM 8.37
403.73
b. CLOSING
SOCK LABEL GID-170 2.001 PR ESP ENT. 2.25PCS 4.50
CODE LABEL L-540 2.001 PR LOV. PLASTIC 0.40PCS 0.80
VELCRO LOOP NYLON 25 MM 0.221 PR SKY 9.00MTR 1.98
VELCRO HOOK NYLON 25 MM 0.121 PR SKY 9.00MTR 1.08
RIVIT COPPER PLAIN 7MM 10.001 PR S.S.ENTER 0.60PCS 6.00
D RING NYLON 30 MM PL03 2.001 PR LOV. PLASTIC 0.60PCS 1.20
D RING 30 MM 2.001 PR S.S.ENTER 2.75PCS 5.50
ELASTIC NYLON 90 CM 7.501 PR TULIP 55.00MTR 7.33
LABEL TAFTA LABEL 2.001 PR SP 0.40PCS 0.80
CLOSING SUNDRIES 20.00

49.19
c. LASTING
SOLE EDBERG 1.00PRS OMEGA 0.00PRS 0.00
INSOLE FULL (TEXON 2000) 1.00PRS VIKVIN 17.00PRS 17.00
LASTING SUNDRIES ROD CEMENT, PU, HARDNER 35.00
PACKING STANDARD 35.00

87.00

R M C (a+b+c) 539.93
Variations @ 2% 10.80
SUB TOTAL- 1 550.72
PROFIT + O/H 160.00
SUB TOTAL- 2 710.72
M KT OH
SUB TOTAL - 3
DIST OH 2.36
MIN M R P
 M&B FOOTWEAR PVT.LTD
COST SHEET

RANGE : EDBERG ID SMART

ARTICLE : ID-0215 DATE: 09.12.2016
COLOUR : BROWN, CHARCOAL
OS / VS : 40/40--41/41--42/42--43/43--44/44
DESCRIPTION : LACE UP
LAST : EDBERG

UPPER MATERIAL SPECIFICATIONS CONSUM. UNIT PER PAIR SUPPLIER PRICE UNIT TOTAL
a. CUTTING
UPPER COW TIE & DIE 1.2-1.4MM 34.161 PR INDIAN 13.50SDM 461.16
TOUNGE SPLIT SUEDE 1.2-1.4MM 3.361 PR INDIAN 6.20SDM 20.83
COLLAR LATEX 10 MM. 69.001 PR KUBER 450.00SQM 6.52
QTR/TNG SKINFIT M-1085 5.251 PR VERSATILE 105.00SQM 20.00
VAMP DRILL EVA COATED 13.501 PR DHINGRA 147.00SQM 10.89
SOCKS EVA D - 21 WITH DRILL CLOTH 1.001 PR CLASSIC 32.00PRS 32.00
INTERLINING SELF ADHESIVE THIN DRILL 4.751 PR DHINGRA 105.00SQM 22.11
TOE PUFF THERMOPLASTIC 407 (0.9MM) 41.00PRS 391.00SQM 9.54
COUNTER BITREM 330 (1.2 MM) 30.00PRS 251.00SQM 8.37
591.41
b. CLOSING
SOCK LABEL GID-170 2.001 PR ESP ENT. 2.25PCS 4.50
RIVIT COPPER PLAIN 7MM 8.001 PR S.S.ENTER 0.60PCS 4.80
EYELET BRASS 600 NO. COPPER 12.001 PR S.S.ENTER 0.40PCS 4.80
DORI PVC 3MM 0.531 PR REGULAR 6.00MTR 3.18
LABEL TAFTA LABEL 2.001 PR SP 0.40PCS 0.80
LACE POLY 130CM 5MM 1.001 PR EMJAY 8.00PRS 8.00
CLOSING SUNDRIES 15.00

41.08
c. LASTING
SOLE EDBERG 1.00PRS OMEGA 0.00PRS 0.00
INSOLE FULL (TEXON 2000) 1.00PRS VIKVIN 17.00PRS 15.00
LASTING SUNDRIES ROD CEMENT, PU, HARDNER 25.00
PACKING STANDARD 35.00

75.00

R M C (a+b+c) 707.49
Variations @ 2% 14.15
SUB TOTAL- 1 721.64
PROFIT + O/H 160.00
SUB TOTAL- 2 881.64
M KT OH
SUB TOTAL - 3
DIST OH 2.36
MIN M R P
 COST SHEET
RANGE : ID SMART
RANGE : FIGO ID SMART
ARTICLE : ID-0066
COLOUR : BLACK
OS/VS : 39-45
LAST : SOCCER DATE: 19-05-2010
DESCRIPTION : SLIP ON

UPPER MATERIAL SPECIFICATIONS CONSUM. UNIT PER PAIR SUPPLIER PRICE UNIT TOTAL
a. CUTTING
ALL BUFF PDM 1.2-1.4 MM 15.70 1 PR INDIAN 9.85 SDM 154.65
TNG/COUNTER/TOE COW SPLIT SUEDE 1.2-1.4 7.00 PRS INDIAN 6.20 SDM 43.40
STRAP/TAB COW CRACKLE 1.2-1.4 3.00 PRS INDIAN 6.05 SDM 18.15
QTR/TNG M-1085 10.50 PRS JASCH 105.00 SQM 10.00
ALL STICHBOND 120 GSM (EST) 8.00 PRS RISHI 90.00 SQM 11.25
SOCKS EVA MOULDED D-21 WITH PRINTING 1.00 1 PR CLASSIC 32.00 1 PR 32.00
TONGUE PU 5MM NORMAL 56.00 PRS RAJ 67.00 SQM 1.20
INTER LINING WALK JERSY THICK E/C 7.50 PRS 85.00 SQM 11.33
BASE FOAM 60 DEN. 3MM WHITE 10.00 PRS TEX N NET 63.00 SQM 6.30
COLLAR LATEX 8-10MM WHITE PLAIN 38.00 PRS KUBER IND. 450.00 SQM 11.84
TOE PUFF THERMOPLASTIC 407 (0.9MM) 40.00 PRS 391.00 SQM 9.78
COUNTER BITREM 330 (1.2 MM) 30.00 PRS 251.00 SQM 8.37

318.26
b. CLOSING
TOUNG EID-01 2 PCS ESKAY 2.00 PCS 4.00
SIZE LABELS TAFTA LABELS ID 2 PCS GOODWILL 0.40 PRS 0.80
ELASTIC NYLON 90 MM 0.18 MTR TULIP 50.00 MTR 9.00
CLOSING SUNDRIES 20.00

33.80
c. LASTING
SOLE CUP SOLE (REAL) 1.00 PRS ENKAY 130.00 PRS 130.00
INSOLE FULL 1.00 PRS MALVA 17.00 PRS 17.00
LASTING SUNDRIES ROD CEMENT, PU, HARDNER 25.00
PACKING STANDARD 35.00

207.00

R M C (a+b+c) 559.06

Variations @ 2% 11.18
SUB TOTAL- 1 570.24
O/H 160.00
SUB TOTAL- 2 730.24
MKT. OH.
SUB TOTAL - 3
DIST OH
MIN M R P
Bibliography

• www.mbfotwear.com
• LEE COOPER BRAND BIBLE
• Lee cooper shopping website