FINISHING ::

As a presentation is the back bone of the garment, high care is dept which is equipped with
taken in the finishing highly sophisticated vacuum stream pressing machine. This section has
space for neat packing and storage of ready made garments.

GARMENT WASHING ::
Our finishing department is fully equiped. We undergo all type of garment washes like acid
wash, enzyme wash, silicon wash, bio wash, stone wash, sand wash, Denim wash, Antipilling
wash, Vintage wash etc.

EMBROIDERY ::
Print & Embroidery is prepared based on the client's requirements. Printing types are Pigment
Print, Plasticsol, Foil, Flock, Foam, Glitter, Spray effect, High bulk .Gel. Photo print,
Discharge print etc. Embroidery is prepared according to the design wise with using of
Viscose yarn, Lurex Yarn, Cotton yarn to maintain the quality with using computerized
machines to achieve the quality & time delivery.

SEWING ::
In our sewing section we follow the assembly line production system. This sewing line
consists of highly efficient, operated with high speed machines with automatic trimming and
cleaning devices. Our production capacity is 100000 pieces per month.

QUALITY CONTROL ::
Our garment finishing division starts the flow of functional activities with 100% checking
done by the companys quality control team in all levels of process. All garments are
physically checked by the quality controllers before packing.
With above defined set up, we are able to meet our clients requirements with all kinds of
products for Men, Women, Boys, Girls and infants too.

Overview ::
Embroidery in today's market has basically become a powerful advertising tool. 90% of our
orders involve clients who are putting their business or product logo on garments for the
purpose of getting their name out in the marketplace. In this respect, embroidery has become
a powerful, inexpensive way to promote a product or business.

Process ::
It all starts with an idea!!! The embroidery process begins with an idea or a piece of artwork.
That artwork then has to be "digitized" which is the specialized process of converting 2
dimensional artwork into stitches or thread. Contrary to popular opinion, you cannot take a
particular format of art such as a jpeg, tif, eps, bmp, and convert it to an embroidery tape.
Digitizing is much more than that. The digitizer has to actually recreate the artwork using
stitches...in a sense...the digitizer is programming the sewing machine to sew a specific
design, in a specific color, with a specific type of stitch. This is the process known as
digitizing. Also, because embroidery is in a sense 3 dimensional, some exciting effects can be
included to "spruce up" a normally flat piece of artwork.
Production ::
Once the artwork has been digitized, it is then ready to be put into production. Production
embroidery is a very hands on process. Before the process of sewing can begin, specific
thread colors must be loaded by hand into the machines. A spool of thread for each color for
each sewing head must be loaded. The machine itself is programmed by the operator to sew
the design in a particular color sequence and a particular sewing speed. The garments must
then be "hooped" individually, again by hand, and then loaded into the machine. Once the
design has completed sewing, the garment is off loaded from the machine, un-hooped, and
then sent to the next step in the production process.

Finishing ::
After the garments have been sewn, they go through a finishing process. During this step, the
garments are inspected for quality, individually trimmed of excess backing material and
excess threads, then folded and packaged ready for shipping to the end user. Customers have
the option of polybagging which takes place in this step. Polybagging involves individually
folding each garment and placing in into a plastic bag preserving it from stains and dust.

Special finishing ::
Today's garments require a lot of different finishes. Our facilities can help with details such as
distressing, appliques, grinding and paint spots.
Heat Transfer ::
Our facilities can help create custom heat transfer prints or use pre-made foil and process
color designs that will produce more vibrant photo prints on garments than process (CMYK)
color offers.
Stones & Beads ::
Stones and beads make an interesting embellishment on almost any garment. We can help
with heat transfer or studded applications for versatility in any situation. We can apply
rhinestones, glitter, caviar beads, nail heads, square beads and stick beads to garments.

The following figures illustrate with process flow diagrams the whole operation of finishing
processes and how the dyeing process is a part and parcel of the process of textile making.

Materials used in the Textile Dyeing Process ::

The materials that are used as inputs in textile dyeing and finishing process may include
water, fibre, yarn or cloth. Examples are of wool, cotton, polyester, and a host of process
chemicals that includes:

Acids, e.g. acetic, formic.

Alkalis- NaOH, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate.

Bleaches- Hydrogen peroxide, sodium hypochlorite, sodium chlorite etc.

Dyes, for example direct, disperse, pigment, vat.

Salts, e.g. NaCl.

Size, e.g. PVA, starch.

Stabilisers from sodium silicate, sodium nitrate also organic stabilisers.

Surfactants

Auxiliary finishes, like fire retardant, softeners.

Methods of Textile Dyeing ::

In selecting the method of textile dyeing the type of process used depends on several factors
that includes type of material like fibre, yarn, fabric, fabric construction, garment. Generic
type of fibres, quality standards used in the dyed fabric, sizes of the dye lots etc.
The following chart gives a comparison between batch dyeing and continuous dyeing

Textile materials are generally dyed using tw

At Four Dolphin Laundrette Company, after you have dropped your valuable garments at the
collection center, they are transferred to the central Launtry. Your valuable garments then go
thru the following stages.
1.Marking and Inspection 2. Pre-treating the stains 3.Sorting 4. Washing 5.Drying 6.Post
spotting 7.Finishing 8.Packing

Pressing process ::
Ater you have dropped your garments at the collection center, they are transferred to the
central Laundry. Your valuable garments then go thru Inspectiom & pressing. After your
garments have passed all stage of the Pressing process they are delivered back to the
collection center to be returned to you as good as new "crisp&wrinkle-free".

Custom Packaging ::
Each garment is returned to you on individually packaged to protect against dust, light and
mildew.

Thread Sucking Machine ::

This innovative product collects all the lose thread from the garments. This type of thread
sucking machine saves valuable floor space and considerably reduces labor cost. This
essential garment finishing machine fully automatic action ensures clean working area. The
average production capacity in an 8 hour shift is more than 2000 pieces. The thread sucking

machine can be utilized for a variety of garments ranging from shirts to skirts of different
sizes.

Saves valuable floor space & reduce labour cost.

Fully Automatic action ensures clean working area.

Average production capacity in 8 hour shift is more than 2000 pieces.

Can be used for a variety of garment ranging from shirt to skirts of different sizes.

All the loose thread from the garment is accumulated inside the machine & can be
removed by simply opening the front door.

Thread Sucking Machine ::

Scientifically designed to remove all loose thread and dust particles from finished
garments and textile products, through a specially designed suction operation
simultaneously creating an oscillation, similar to dusting of garments.

Suitable for all kinds of light and heavy garments, home furnishing items and even
heavy bath rugs.

Easily removable lint filter provided for collection of all lint, loose thread and dust
particles.

Fully Automatic (or manual) version available.

Can handle more than 2000 pieces in an average 8 hour shift.

What is export packaging?

This page explains how to make sure your export packaging is good enough so that your
goods arrive intact and undamaged with your overseas buyer. Export packaging is also often
referred to as transport packaging, which is one of three main types of packaging that are
likely to be needed for exported goods.
1

Transport or export packaging is the outermost layer of packaging and is designed

to protect your goods during transit. Examples include wooden crates, metal drums
and plastic shrink-wrapping. See the page in this guide on your export packaging
options.

Outer packaging is an intermediate layer of packaging, which often also serves a

retail-promotion purpose. An example would be a box containing multiple units that
doubles as a retail display fixture and can be placed directly on a shop shelf, as is
common with many convenience foods.

Sales packaging is the immediate layer of packaging around your goods - the
packaging that remains when the goods reach their end-user. Examples include the
bottles in which beverages are contained, or the boxes many electronics items are sold
in. Sales packaging often also serves a marketing purpose by containing prominent
branding images and information.

These three types of packaging work like Russian dolls - each layer of packaging is complete
on its own terms, but contained within a further layer of outer packaging.
This guide is concerned primarily with export or transport packaging, but it makes sense to
consider all your packaging choices together at the outset.

Garment inspection ::
Inspection in reference to quality control in the apparel industry can be defined as the
visualexamination or review of raw materials (such as fabric, buttons, zippers, sewing
threads, etc), partially finished components of the garments and completely finished garments
in relation tosome standards, specifications, or requirements including the measurement of
the garments toensure the satisfaction of the customers.

All garment retailers expect to sell high quality products from manufactures. The quality of
the garments any vary depends on the price market they are being made for so therefore
buyers expect manufacturers expect manufacturers to follow various methods of inspection
techniques all through the production and prior to shipment release from factory. Following
correct inspection procedures, inspection systems and eventually shipment release gives the
clear judgment of the quality of the garment.
Flow Chart of Garment Inspection ::
Confirmation of Quantity

Confirmation of accessories

Size spec inspection

In side Inspection

Out side Inspection

Final Inspection

Packing
Inspection Procedure of Garments are Described Below ::
1. Confirmation of Quantity:
First step of garment inspection start with confirmation of Quantity with the vendors
packing list by counting all Pecs. Of each box. If Qty is not matching to the packing list and
written in the box then this discrepancy is informed to the vendor.
2. Confirmation of Accessories:
Next step is the confirmation of accessories, here we confirm brand tags, demerit tags, Price
tags, or other tags, wash care labels, woven labels, or other labels and accessories as required
by the buyer.
3. Size Spec inspection:
After confirmation of accessories all pcs are checked as per size spec based on the instruction
sheet which is given by the buyer side. If any measurement problem is noticed then we check
the original sample and inform the buyer same time.
4. In Side Inspection:
At this stage garment is checked from reverse side to ensure that there is no fabric defect,
poor stitching, and stains etc in the garment.

5. Out Side Inspection:

At this stage garment is checked from outside to ensure that there is no color variation,
weaving defect, fabric defect, printing defect, holes, poor stitching, bad smell , dying defect
and stains etc in the garment.
6. Final Inspection:
Final Inspection stage is the most important part of inspection process, here garment is
rechecked to confirm that inspection is done properly without missing any checking step if
any defect is noticed we put it into rejection bin or send it for repay.
7. Packing:
All Grade-A goods are put back into poly bags as per the original packaging and then they
are send for needle inspection .
So, depending on the quality of defect some garments are send for repair and some are
rejected.
Quality ::
Ideal condition of excellence.
Product quality is based on a product attribute.
User-based quality is fitness for use,
manufacturing based quality is conformance to requirements
value based quality is the degree of excellence at an acceptable price
ISO 9000:2000 Defines it as degree to which a set of inherent characteristics fulfill
requirement.
Quality inspection in apparel industries ::
Visual examination or review of raw materials, partially finished components of garments
and completely finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or
requirements, as well as measuring garments to check if they meet the required
measurements.
Quality inspection in apparel industries ::
done to control quality of garments.
Checking of fabric,
sewing thread,
button,
stitch,
zipper,
garments size etc according to required standard or specification is known as inspection.
Quality inspection is important for every section of apparel industries.
Steps in apparel industries to control quality ::
1

1. Raw Material Inspection;

2. In Process Inspection;
3. Final Inspection;
Raw Material Inspection:
Fabric Inspection
Sewing Thread Inspection
Trims & Accessories check
Fabric Inspection ::
done through Fabric Inspection machine.
very important for every industries .
In fabric inspection their checks several things i.e. in fabric are there any defect available or
not. In fabric, fabric defects viz. off shade or shade variation, hole in fabric, barre effect etc.
can be visual after entering into the store room. For those defects it will be problem able for
making garments making.
In fabric inspection, also check fabric strength, color, quantity To check fabric there are
different system i.e. 4 point system, 10 point system etc.
Sewing Thread Inspection ::
During stitching fabric frequently brakeage of sewing thread is one of the great problems for
garments manufacturing. So that it is necessary to check
thread construction,
sewability,
color,
imperfection,
finish, package
density,
winding,
yardage of sewing thread
In thread construction
thread number,
thread ply,
thread tenacity,
thread elongation,
number of twist is necessary to check.
Trims & Accessories check ::
Button,
Zippers
interlining,
label &
tags also need to check so that quality can be maintain according
to required quality.
1

For button,
button strength,
button color,
quantity etc are checked.
Fabric inspection policies ::
The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability for our
garments. It also allow us to prevent loss of material and time during the garment
manufacturing process.
Fabric inspection, mapping or marking defects is important prior to spreading and cutting
because:
n Spreading can be done more quickly because the spreader is not also inspecting the
fabric.
n A cutter's productivity will increase because the defects are already marked.
Purpose of fabric inspection ::
Fabric Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid
rejects due to fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing. Fabric
inspection is done for fault/defect rate, fabric construction, end to end or edge to edge
shading, colour, hand or feel, length/width, print defect and appearance. Fabric inspection
ensures to minimise the rejection of cut panels or rejected garments due to fabric faults.
Cutting inspected and approved fabric ensures not only finished garment quality but also
reduces rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries.
The purpose of fabric inspection is to determine the quality and acceptability for garments.
As fabric is received, it should be inspected to determine acceptability from a quality
viewpoint. Some garment manufacturers rely on their fabric suppliers to perform fabric
inspection and fabric defects. In many small companies, spreading and cutting is done by the
same personnel and fabric is inspected as it is being spread on a table for cutting.
Fabric inspection, mapping or marking defects is important prior to spreading and cutting
because:
Spreading can be done more quickly because the spreader is not also inspecting the
fabric.
A cutter's productivity will increase because the defects are already marked.
The patterns are cut around the defects so as not to include them in the finished garment
How much to inspect?
When a sewing factory receives fabric from the mill, it is difficult to conduct a full 100%
inspection of the fabric. A minimum 10% inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading the
fabric is recommended.
Fabric Inspection Systems ::
There a re various fabric inspection systems:
10-Point System.
Graniteville "78" system.
1

Dallas system.
4- Point system.

Ten Point System ::

It was developed in the 1950's. This system assigns penalty points to each defect, depending
on the length of the defect.
Penalty points are assigned as per the following:
Warp defects
10-36 inches
5-10 inches
1-5 inches
Up to 1 inch

Penalty points
10 points
5 points
3 points
1 points

Filling defects

Penalty points

Full width

10 points

5 inches to half the width 5 points

of fabric
1-5 inches
3 points
Up to 1 inch

1 points

Under the Ten-Point System, a piece is graded a "first" if the total penalty points do not
exceed the total yardage of the piece. A piece is graded a "second" if the total penalty points
exceed the total yardage of the piece.
The following points are noteworthy:
This system is bit complicated because points per length are different for warp and
weft defects.
It is difficult in practical use.
Graniteville "78" system ::
This system was introduced in 1975 for the field of fabric grading. The system divides
defects into major and minor types .The major defect is one, which is very obvious and leads
the goods to second quality. The minor defect is one, which may or may not have caused
garment to second, depending on its location in the end use item.
Penalty Points are assigned as per the following:
Defect length

Penalty points

9 inches

9-18 inches

18-27 inches

27-36 inches

The following points are noteworthy in this system:

The principle was established in garment cutting piece, in which, the short length
defects (less than 9") will normally be removed.
The system tries to balance the importance of longer defects (over 9") and put less
weight on 1-10" defects such as slubs.
The system also suggests the viewing distance of 9 foot instead of normal 3-foot
viewing distance.
The system tends to eliminate very small defects from the total penalty score.
This is mostly recommended for use, where larger garments are to be cut with fabrics
of wider widths.
Dallas System ::
This system was developed in 1970s specifically for knits. It was approved by Dallas
Manufacturers Association. According to this system, if any defect was found on a finished
garment, the garment would then be termed as a "second". For fabrics, this system defines a
second as "more than one defect per ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest ten yards". For
example, one piece 60 yards long would be allowed to have six defects.
4-Point System ::
The 4-Point System, also called the American Apparel Manufacturers (AAMA) point-grading
system for determining fabric quality, is widely used by producers of apparel fabrics and is
endorsed by the AAMA as well as the ASQC (American Society or Quality Control).
The 4-Point System assigns 1, 2, 3 and 4 penalty points according to the size and significance
of the defect. No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect. Defect can
be in either length or width direction, the system remains the same. Only major defects are
considered. No penalty points are assigned to minor defects.
In this system, one should inspect at least 10 per cent of the total rolls in the shipment and
make sure to select at least one roll of each color way.
Fabric defects are assigned points based on the following:
Length of Defect

Penalty points Allotted

Up to 3 inches

1 Point

3 6 inches

2 Points

6 9 inches

3 Points

Over 9 inches

4 Points

Hole and Openings

(Over 1 inch)

2 Points

Hole and Openings

(Over 1 inch)

4 Points

Total defect points per 100 square yards of fabric are calculated and the acceptance criteria is
generally not more than 40 penalty points. Fabric rolls containing more than 40 points are
considered "seconds".
The formula to calculate penalty points per 100 square yards is given by:

The following are noteworthy points for this system:

No more than 4 penalty points can be assigned for any single defect.
The fabric is graded regardless of the end-product.
This system makes no provision for the probability of minor defects.
4 point system is most widely used system in apparel industry as it is easy to teach
and learn.

General Inspection Procedures ::

1. Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation
and proper lighting.
2. Fabric passing through the inspection frame must be between 45 - 60 degree angles to
inspector and must be done on appropriate Cool White light above viewing area. Back
light can be used as and when needed.
3. Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute.
4. All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or lot is received.
5. Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be available prior
to inspection.
6. Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for
assessing color, hand, weight, construction, finish and visual appearance.
7. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre and selvage
and the beginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated and documented.
8. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight.
9. Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard.
10. All defects must be flagged during inspection.
11. The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on
supplier ticketed tag and any deviation must be documented and reported to mill for
additional replacement to avoid shortage.
12. If yard dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement must be
done from beginning, middle and end of selected rolls.
Conclusion ::

Apparel manufacturers inspect the fabric stock upon arrival, so that any fabric irregularities
are caught early in the production process. Textile producers also generally inspect fabrics
before sending them to manufacturers. After identification of fabric defects, a system needs to
be followed to grade the defects to ascertain its acceptance or rejection. 4-Point fabric
inspection system is mostly used in textile industry around the globe now. This test method
describes a procedure to establish a numerical designation for grading of fabrics from a visual
inspection. It may be used for the delivery and acceptance of fabrics with requirements
mutually agreed upon by the purchaser and the supplier. This system does not establish a
quality level for a given product, but rather provides a means of defining defects according to
their severity by assigning demerit point values. All type of fabrics whether grey or finished,
can be graded by this system.
References ::
1. Managing Quality in Apparel Industry by P V Mehta and S K Bhardwaj.
2. Fabric Inspection and Grading by Daniel D Powderly.
3. Fabric Inspection: The New Order by Fred Fortress.
4. Fabric Science by J J Pizutto.
5. www.textileschool.com/School/Apparel/ApparelManufacturing/FabricInspection.aspx
.
6. www.fabricinspection.com.
7. www.acginspection.com/Standard_4.html.
8. www.asiathai.com/images/fabric_inspection1.jpg.
9. 158.132.122.156/itc/macau/fabric-inspection/tsld022.htm.
10. www.textilesindepth.com/index.php?page=fabric-selection-inspection.