Get Started in Woodworking

BUILD IT YOURSELF!
112 PAGES OF EXPERT GUIDANCE
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March 24, 2015
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EDITORIAL CONTENT CHIEF DAVECAMPBEll
DEPUTY EDITOR CRAIG RUEGSEGGER
PUBLICATION EDITOR KERRYGIBSON
ART DIRECTOR KARL EHLERS
PUBLICATION ART DIRECTOR KIM HOPKINS
DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER LUCAS PETERS
SENIOR DESIGN EDITOR KEVIN BOYlE
DESIGN EDITOR JOHN OLSON
TOOLS EDITOR BOB HUNTER
GENERAL·INTEREST EDITOR NATEGRANZOW
ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT SHERYL MUNYON
CONTRIBUTING CRAFTSMEN JIM HEAVEY,BRIANSIMMONS, MARKLANE,

BOB BAKER,TOM BRUMBACK,BOBSAUNDERS,STEVEFEENEY,MATTSEILER, DOUGLEY
PHOTOGRAPHERS DEANSCHOEPPNER,JASON DONNELLY,JAYWILDE
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATORS TIM CAHILL,LORNAJOHNSON, ROXANNELeMOINE
PROOFREADERS BABS KLEIN,BILLKRIER, IRA LACHER,JlM SANDERS
Welcome to VICE PRESIDENT

ADVERTISINGANDMARKETING
& GROUP PUBLISHER
GROUP BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR
SCOTTMORTIMER
CURTBLADES
Woodworking ADVERTISING SALES REPRESENTATIVE

SALES ASSISTANT
LISAGREENWOOD
NANCYECHEVERRIA
ONLINE MEDIA KIT woedmaqarine.rem/mediakit
BUSINESS MANAGER DARRENTOLLEFSONCONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR LIZBREDESON

fyou're reading this, you've obviously given serious
I
CONSUMER MARKETING MANAGER BLAINEROURICKRETAIL BRAND MANAGER·NEWSSTAND TAMMYCLINE
PRODUCTION MANAGER SANDYWILLIAMSADVERTISING OPERATIONS MANAGER JIM NELSON
thought to taking up woodworking. Maybe you're tired of PREPRESS DESKTOP SPECIALIST RANDYJ. MANNINGCOLOR QUALITY ANALYST PAMELAPOWERS
shelling out money for particleboard passing as furniture
MEREDITHNATIONALMEDIAGROUP
and thinking, "I'll bet I could build this better myself out of PRESIDENT TOMHARTY
real wood." Or perhaps you're looking for a hobby that rewards
EXECUTIVE
VICEPRESIDENTS
you with a feeling of accomplishment at the end of the day. PRESIDENT, MEDIA SALES RICHARDPORTER PRESIDENT, PARENTS NETWORK CAREYWITMER
PRESIDENT, WOMEN'S LIFESTYLE THOMASWITSCHI PRESIDENT, MEREDITH DIGITAL JONWERTHER
Whatever the reason, I can personally vouch for woodwork- PRESIDENT, MEREDITH HOME GROUP JAMESCARR CREATIVE CONTENT LEADER GAYLEGOODSONBUTLER
ing as an excellent solution. Spending time in the shop is also CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER NANCYWEBER CHIEF REVENUE OFFICER MICHAELBROWNSTEIN
GENERAL MANAGER DOUGOLSON
a great stress reliever, and nothing beats the satisfaction of
SENIORVICEPRESIDENTS
creating something with your own hands. CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER ANDYWILSON DIGITAL SALES CAROLYNBEKKEDAHL
But how do you get started? For those of us lucky enough, we RESEARCH SOLUTIONS BRITTACLEVELAND
had a dad, granddad, uncle, or neighbor who patiently showed VICEPRESIDENTS

BUSINESS PLANNING AND ANALYSIS ROBSILVERSTONECONSUMER MARKETING JANETDONNELLY
us the ropes from an early age. Sawdust runs through our veins. CORPORATE MARKETING STEPHANIECONNOLLYCOMMUNICATIONS PATRICKTAYLOR
HUMAN RESOURCES DINANATHANSONCORPORATE SALES BRIANKIGHTLINGER
Think of this issue as that same friendly advice and guiding DIGITAL VIDEO LAURAROWLEY DIRECT MEDIA PATTIFOLLO BRAND LICENSING ELiSECONTARSY
hand. With more than 30 years creating the world's most-read STRATEGIC SOURCING, NEWSSTAND, PRODUCTION CHUCKHOWELL
woodworking publication under their belts, the editors of
WOOD® magazine have put together-this issue to teach you the emeredith
CHAIRMAN AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER STEPHENM. LACY
skills you need, from understanding and selecting wood, to PRESIDENT, MEREDITH LOCAL MEDIA GROUP PAULKARPOWICZ
buying your first tools, to joinery and finishing techniques.
VICE CHAIRMAN MELLMEREDITHFRAZIER
That's all well and good, but you want to get busy with those IN MEMORIAM - E.T.MEREDITHIII (1933-20031
skills! So we've also included five starter projects-including a
simple workbench (on page 75) for your new shop-to put what
you've learned into practice. Oh, there's also a handy reference
section chock-full of useful information.
So welcome to the club! I know you're going to love it.
11
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woodmagazine.com
Contents
Understanding and
Buying Wood
4 Board Basics
A guide to understanding all things wood.
6 Wood Structure and Appearance

Cell structure gives wood its properties.
10 lingo for Buying Lumber

Pick the right wood for your projects.
14 Machining Wood
How to work wood to your advantage.
16 Selecting Sheet Goods

Not all plywood is the same.
Get Equipped
20 Assemble a Commonsense
Tool Kit
Essential tools to get you started.
22 Top Buys in 6 Power Tools

Get the most bang for your tool bucks.
Tools, Skills, and Tips

26 Measure and Mark for Better
Accuracy
Learn rules for dead-on measurements. Safety
43 Healthy Woodworking
29 Tune Up Your Tools Equipment to keep you safe in the shop.
Accurate cuts start with proper alignment.
46 Safety Checklist
30 Start Square to Finish Square Follow these simple rules to work safely.
Must-have skills for precision builds.
33 How to Cut a Straight Edge

Basic Joinery
on Anything 47 Master Dadoes, Grooves,
These tips keep you lined up for success. and Rabbets·
Learn how to create these essential cuts.
38 Eking Precision out
of Portable Power Tools 52 Half-Lap Joints
Get big-time results with small tools. Fashion simple, yet strong connections.
42 Precisely How Precise? 54 Save Time with Pocket Holes

Don't sweat the really small stuff. A quick and easy way to join workpieces.
56 Glue Up Perfect Panels

Turn multiple boards into a smooth unit.
Wipe Out Excess Glue

Tips for keeping glue under control.
Joint Decisions
Pick the joint that bestfits the need.
2 Get Started in Woodworking

Finishing
62 Keys to Successful Hand-Sanding
Essential skills for smooth surfaces.
64 Start of a Great Finish

Expert advice from a finishing pro.
65 Foolproof Finish
A go-to finish for guaranteed success. Starter Projects
66 3 Easy Oak Finishes 75 One-Day Workbench
Build this workshop essential.
Easy techniques for flawless finishes.
79 Low-Tech, High-Appeal
Project Preparation Picture Frames
69 Understanding Drawings Simple techniques yield great results.
and Plans
Decipher the details for better builds. 82 Classic Bookcase
Test your skills and reap the rewards.
73 10 Keys to Successfully
Building WOOD® Projects 90 Garden Bench
Helpful hints for project perfection. Adapt techniques for outdoor builds.
96 Hall Table
Hidden simplicity, classic lines.
Reference Guide
102 Choose the Right Screw
Make sense of your fastener options.
106 Drill-Press Guide

Match speed with style for best results.
108 Choosing and Using

Woodworking Adhesives
Pick the right glue for the task at hand.
110 Choosing and Applying

Clear Finishes
Determine what's best for your job.
112 Fraction, Decimal, and

Millimeter Equivalents
No-math chart for figuring out fractions.
82
woodmagazine.com 3
UNDERSTANDING AND BUYING WOOD
Board Basics
They're easy to learn if you follow the grain.
Warps and size changes

W
en is a groove a dado? What's stock. So, be sure you're clear whether
the difference between ripping directionals and terms such as edge or end As humidity changes, so does the size of a
and resawing? And why would refer to the stock or to the actual project piece of wood. Exposed to high humidity,
anyone give dimensions as V2x4x2" when part. wood swells, only to shrink when the
it sounds so much more correct to say humidity decreases. This movement,
V2x2x4"? The answers to these and other Keep dimensions in order which varies in degree among species, also
woodworking questions depend on one Measurements can lead to confusion, too. relates to grain.
thing-which way the grain runs. Wood dimensions are customarily given Only the slightest dimensional change
in a specific order-thickness, width, and occurs with the grain, or lengthwise. But
Let the grain guide you length (TxWxL).Thickness is normally the thickness and width can vary consider-
When you start talking about grain, you smallest dimension on the board's end; ably. Going from green to oven-dry (a
have to think about the log the stock width, the measurement across the grain; testing standard, not to be confused with
comes from. The concentric growth rings and length, the measurement along or kiln-dry), some woods shrink by almost 13
visible on the ends of the log form those with the grain, as. shown in the drawing percent in width, or more than 3,4" on
stripes-often arc-shaped-that you see bottom left. 6"-wide stock. Since you'll ordinarily build
on the ends of a board. This distinctive If you swap given dimensions when you projects from kiln-dried stock, you won't
end grain provides a convenient reference cut a piece for a project, the part will fit, experience such extreme variations. Also,
point for identifying the six planes on a but it might not look right. Rearranging once wood has been dried, it doesn't
board, shown below. When the stock's dimensions also could affect the strength expand to that degree when exposed to
thickness equals its width, all four surfaces or durability of a project. The illustration normal humidity changes.
are called faces. below shows three ways a piece could be A look at the end grain will give you
As simple as edge, face, and end seem, cut simply by changing the order of the some clues as to how a piece of wood will
confusion arises because these planes on dimensions. react to humidity. Movement will be
the stock may not correspond to direc- greatest in the direction of the stripes or
tional terms for the part. For instance, on arcs, or tangential to them, shown below.
a box with the grain running horizontally, Radial growth and shrinkage across the
references to the front and back edges of
an end piece will indicate the ends of your
~
L G-:;;'~::::-:""~
-.s>""
~ End
Surface Moderate
change
(radial)
~~~
W~I'-"T GRAIN AND
SURFACES
WOOD EXPANSION
AND CONTRACTION

arcs will be less, probably in the range of
40-80 percent of the tangential value,
depending on the species. This uneven
Bow
shrinkage can set up stresses in a piece of
wood, causing it to warp. Described here
and shown at left are four common warps
you'll likely encounter:
Bow: A curve from end to end, resulting
in a board that rocks from end to end on
one face when placed on a flat surface.
Crook: An edge curvature from end to shown above, often accompany warping,
end, resulting in a board that rocks back too. And, of course, if things are really out
and forth on the convex edge. of control, you could find a snakelike
Cup: Edge-to-edge curvature, resulting in board that combines two or more varieties
a board that rocks from side to side on one of warping .•
face when placed on a flat surface.
Twist: A warp that lifts one corner, result-
ing in a board with ends that aren't parallel More Resources
to each other. ~ Learn the lingo! Find a complete
WARPING Checks (cracks across growth rings) and glossary of woodworking terms at
woodmagazine.com/woodwords.
shakes (cracks between growth rings),
A glossary of cuts
To cut stock to size, woodworkers rely on
SAWING RABBET
three basic sawing operations, all defined
STOCK TO
in relation to grain direction. The sizing SIZE
cuts, shown in Drawing 1, are:
Crosscutting: Sawing across the grain to
reduce a board's length. A crosscut at an
angle other than 90° to the board's edge is
a miter cut.
Ripping: Sawing in the grain direc-
tion to reduce a board's width. A
face will rest flat on the surface of
the tablesaw.
Resawing: Sawing in the grain direction
to reduce thickness. An edge of the piece
being resawn will rest on the saw table.
Here are some other cutting terms you'll DADOVS. CHAMFER
likely run across: GROOVE AND
Rabbet: A channel along an edge or end of BEVEL
a piece of stock, shown in Drawing 2.
Dado: A flat-bottomed channel that runs
across the grain, open from edge to edge, as
shown in Drawing 3. .
Groove: A similar channel running with
the grain.
Bevel: An angled cut across an entire edge,
end, or face, shown in Drawing 4.
Chamfer: An angle cut on a portion of an
edge, end, or face.
woodmagazine.com 5
Live bark
(Protects inner layers;
transports sugars
produced in leaves.)
(Generates new growth.

Thickness exaggerated for
clarity.)
Sapwood
(Live wood that transports
water and nutrients.)
Heartwood
(Dead wood that provide
structural support.)
Pith
(Original tree stem
surrounded by soft
juvenile wood.) .
=-,....-_~"*:JHlt-~Growth
rings
(New wood fibers addec
annually as tree grows.)
Peel open a log, and you'll

reveal the distinct cellular layers
that make up wood. When sliced
into boards, these layers produce
the color, grain figure, and strength that
woodworkers prize.
'''.;;:.~:i:::.::;1~~~~2~~~- Flatsawn
(Growth rings meet face
at 30° angle or less.)
Wood Structure
and Appearance
The more you know about wood, the better able you'll be to work with it. By
understanding wood's composition, you can use its structure to your advantage.
oodworkers know that indi- finish wood for the projects you build. The growth cycle
W vidual boards, whether from
separate species, the same one,
or even the same tree, can have vastly
And you'll understand how completed
projects react to changes in temperature
and humidity.
Trees, whether hardwood or softwood,
all grow pretty much the same way. A
narrow stem sprouts from a seed, and
different grain figure, color, and working Thankfully, you don't have to decipher reaches for sunlight. But that stem-call
properties. Few of us, though, under- the intricacies of wood's cellular makeup. it the trunk=doesn't just get longer.
stand why. If you take time to become We've done that for you in this article to Instead, it adds layer upon layer of new
familiar with wood as a material, you'll help make it easy for you to understand material like coats of paint, causing it to
reap rewards by the truckload. It will let what you need to know about wood. Let's increase in both height and diameter as
you better select, machine, assemble, and start with the basics of how a tree grows. it grows upward.

Growth rings
give clues to
the tree's age,
growth rate, and
whether the trunk grew
straight or crooked, on flat
ground or a slope. Uneven ring
distribution can indicate unstable wood.
Rays
The cambium, a thin layer just called the pith. Branches grow in diameter drawing on the previous page, and the photo
-beneath the live bark, serves as the driv- and length, like the trunk, by adding new above. In some species, the rings are readily
ing force behind this growth. Each year, it cells each season. Slice through the base of visible-and difficult to see in others. This
produces new sapwood on the inner side, the branch at the trunk, and you'll see the depends, in a large part, on the types of cells
and a bit more live bark on the outside. telltale remnants of a branch: a knot. the tree contains, as well as how they're
As trees grow, they sprout branches, Once enough layers accumulate, they distributed. Read below to learn more about
which all originate from the stem, now show up as growth rings, seen in the wood structure.
Hardwood or soft: it depends on cell structure

Hardwoods and softwoods share similar Hardwood at 100 times magnification
cellular makeup, as shown at right.
Vessel (pore) Tracheids
Softwoods are simpler, containing two (fibers)
major cell types; hardwoods have four.
In both types of trees, the old analogy
of wood as a bundle of straws glued
together remains reasonably accurate.
Most cells, though, aren't continuous
tubes. They have sealed ends.
In softwoods, about 95 percent of cells
are tracheids (commonly called fibers)
that are aligned vertically. They carry
liquids (sap) through the tree and offer
structural support. Horizontally arranged
rays (the other 5 percent of cells) radiate
out from the pith like spokes in a wheel.
Rays transfer and store nutrients in the
sapwood. In softwoods, rays are usually
small and difficult to see ..
All of these cells are stuck together by a
gluelike substance called lignin.
Hardwoods also contain tracheids and When magnified, "solid" wood shows its true nature: separate fibers joined together. One cubic inch
rays. The rays are often larger than those may contain as many as 5,000,000 individual fibers.
in softwoods, and are grouped in bigger
bundles, making them readily visible,
especially in quartersawn stock, as Ray cells radiate outward
shown right. Some hardwoods have from the tree's center, so
vertical parenchyma cells that are similar they only show up clearly
to rays, but run up and down. in quartersawn stock.
Hardwoods also feature specialized cells White oak (shown here),
called vessels that transport sap. These red oak, and sycamore are
vessels lose their ends as they form, renowned for the distinct
creating continuous ducts. Looking at a "ray fleck" figure that
quartersawing exposes.
hardwood board in end view, you often
can see the open ends of the vessels,
which are commonly called pores.
woodmagazine.com 7
The color connection: Heartwood vs. sapwood
As growth rings form around the a tree's though. Most woodworkers prefer the The moral of the story: Avoid treated
perimeter, they produce sapwood. This appearance of the consistently light-color boards with heartwood, especially if that
outer layer, which often sets itself apart sapwood found in both maple and poplar, stock will be in contact-with the ground.
with a white to light tan color, varies in for example, over the darker heartwood. ' The transition to heartwood brings other
thickness among species. It carries sap Extractives in some species add more changes to wood cells. As the extractives fill
(water plus any minerals present in the than color. Those in cedar and redwood the cell walls, they often become harder and
soil) from the roots up to the leaves. Sug- make the heartwood resist decay. This make the heartwood more durable.
ars produced in the leaves then flow back explains why the sapwood rots more In some species, bubblelike membranes
down through the live bark to feed the quickly in these popular outdoor woods. called tyloses form in the vessels. These
cambium layer. Heartwood cells often resist the absorp- block the flow of water through the ves-
Cells residing in the tree's inner layers tion of liquids better than sapwood, too, sels. White oak, for example, contains
die as sapwood layers accumulate. At this because the extractives block the tiny pits these structures that suit the wood well for
time, they become heartwood, which in cell walls that normally allow liquid crafting wine barrels that won't leak.
provides structural support for the tree. movement. As a result, makers of treated Now that you know why wood looks
During this process, the cell walls take on lumber for outdoor use choose woods with the way it does, you'll be better equipped
materials called extractives. Tints in the a high percentage of sapwood, such as to find lumber with the right appearance
extractives give many woods, especially southern yellow pine. The sapwood accepts for your next project .•
hardwoods, their distinctive colors. the chemicals, and the heartwood does
Woodworkers value heartwood in most not. So, in this man-altered wood product,
Written by David Stone
species because of its color and greater the heartwood becomes more susceptible Illustrations: Eric Flynn
natural durability. Some exceptions exist, to decay than the sapwood. Original cell art: Les Jozsa
Fanciful figures
Most wood fibers run vertically, but Wavy grain produces curly figure, entangled, yielding figures of many
they don't necessarily grow straight up sometimes referred to as striped or tiger types. Most common among them are
and down. Sometimes, they take on a grain. Violinmakers often use tight curly patterns called crotch and flame. On
wavy pattern, twist together grain known as fiddleback. occasion, trees develop growths called
(interlock), or spiral. When the fibers form localized swirls, burls that produce wildly figured grain.
Combinations of these variables the result becomes bird's-eye figure, Unfortunately, reading what grain
produce intriguing grain lines and most commonly exhibited in sugar figure exists within a tree trunk proves
cause uneven light reflection. (hard) maple. difficult. But finding out what lies within
Woodworkers prize boards bearing At tree crotches (where branches remains one of the joys of cutting logs
these properties, below, and refer to intersect the trunk), wood fibers become into lumber.
them as highly figured.
Choosing stock for a project
can be a delightful walk in e
wood store-or a mumbo
jumbo of lumber jargon.
Here's a primer to sharpen
your buying eye and
help you talk the
talk the next
time you shop
for boards.
Hardwood and softwood:

two ball games
hat makes a wood "hard" or "soft"?
W Carvers love the softness of bass-

wood and butternut under their
knives. Sure, they're soft in that respect, but
technically they're hardwoods. That's because
hardness isn't what spells the difference
between hardwood and softwood lumber.
Instead, it's the type of tree from which the
wood is harvested.
Hardwood is produced by mostly broad-leaf
deciduous trees that-in the world's temperate
zones-lose their leaves each fall. Softwood,
on the other hand, refers to wood that comes
from evergreen, needle-leaf, cone-bearing
trees called conifers. Neither term has any-
thing to do with hardness, although the wood
from deciduous trees generally proves to be
harder than that from coniferous trees.
Because of its beauty, stability, strength,
predictability when machined, and resistance
to denting, hardwood is the choice for most
furnituremaking. Few softwoods offer the
same positive characteristics. Bald cypress,
redwood, and western red cedar are occasional
exceptions. See the sidebar, on page 12, for a
selection of the most commonly used hard-
woods and softwoods,
Continued 011 pare 12
10
Hardwood grade school

Because hardwood trees are less abundant
than softwood and their lumber more
II PRIMARY USES
cabinets sim Ie furniture
OTHER USES
valuable, great care is taken to minimize
waste from a log. That means you'll find cabinets
carved items
boards of differing quality-even if they
cabinets,furniture flooring
came from the same log. For this reason, carved items
the National Hardwood Lumber Associa- cabinets finefurniture rnoldin s
tion (NHLA) assigns specific quality chairs tool handles cabinets
grades to all hardwood boards. Each classicfurniture outdoor furniture
durabletables & chairs cabinets moldin s
grade reflects a classification according to
cabinets furniture moldin s
the percentage of clear material the grade outdoor & indoorfurniture barrels
is expected to yield. The greater the per- utilityfurniture painted items
centage, the higher the grade and value of furniture boat decks & trim
the board. Let's look at the top four stan- finefurniture moldin s
dard grades of hardwood lumber.
Bald cypress outdoor & indoorfurniture
• Firsts and Seconds (FAS). This grade Cedar (western red) outdoor furniture decks,fences
features long and wide cuttings. The board Pine (ponderosa) countryfurniture
sizes measure from 6" and wider to 8' and (white) countryfurniture
longer. Graded from the poorer side, FAS (southern yellow) flooring treated for outdoor use
Redwood outdoor furniture decks,fences
boards produce minimum cuttings of
4"x5' or 3"x7'. Clear-face cuttings must
yield no more than 16 percent waste. grade. No difference exists between FASlF and wider, 4' and longer, with minimum
These highest-quality boards are most and Selects except for minimum dimen- cuttings of 4"x2' or 3"x3'. Clear-face cut-
often used in tabletop and moldings, or sions. The minimum size for FASlF boards tings must yield two-thirds or more usable
where long, clearboards are required. is 6"x8'. Selects measure at least 4"x6'. The wood, You'll find the grade in the shorter
• FAS l-Face (FASlF) or Selects. FAS1F Select grade applies to woods, such as pieces of cabinets or furniture .
is graded like FAS, except that the boards birch or hickory, that yield shorter, nar- • No. 2A. Most often found in flooring,
are graded from the better side, or the rower boards . boards of this grade yield at least 50 per-
clearer face. The back side of the board • No. 1 Common. Graded from the cent clear wood in cuttings at least 3"
will grade no lower than No. 1 Common poorer side, Common boards measure 3" wide and 2' long.
BasicYield for FAS
8
11
1
BasicYield for No.1 COrn.n1.on
I~'---- 4'------·1
811 -1 Dtt~"'>
~ ':r.i#;';;:~":'
I ~aSiCYield for No.2 COnUnon \' 12' 7_' ~ __ ~"_+_: I
TIP Ifyou're looking for consistent color and grain in long boards, say for a piece of fine furniture or
cabinetry, go with a Select or Better grade. If, however, you're building a small project that you
plan to paint or stain, a lesser grade will save you 30 to 50 percent in wood cost.

Softwood grade school • No. 2 and No. 3 Common.
Like hardwood, softwood lumber of fur- No.1 Common is no longer graded
nitureand cabinet quality (not building and sold separately. Instead, it's
construction) is graded on the number included with No.2 Common and
of cuttings a board will yield. Softwood sold as No. 2 & Better Common.
grades fall into three main categories- Referred to as the Knotty or Shelv-
Select, Shop, and Common. A board's ing grade, No. 2 Common is the
best side determines the grades for all most popular utility grade. Similar
Hardwood Softwood
but 5/4 (1%") and thicker Shop grades. to No. 1 Common, No.2 Common t hlIcness
k t h·ICk ness
One-inch lumber generally is sold in 2" allows more pronounced knots and after S2S I Thickness after S2S
width increments (lx2, lx4, etc.), and other defects. No. 3 Common 1V,6" 4/4 = 1" %"
1%" lumber comes in random widths includes boards of less uniform 1Yi6" 5/4 = 1W' 1V32"
and lengths. Several rules and regula- appearance than the higher grades. 1V!6" 6/4 = 1 Yz" 110/32"
tions govern softwood grades. Here's a Common grades include the desig- 1%,' 8/4 = 2" 11V,6"
simplified rundown. nation liS-Dry,"meaning they have 2W' 10/4 = 2W 2%"
• ( and Better Select. The clearest 18-20 percent moisture content. 2%,' 12/4 = 3" 2%,'
grade available from most American mills, All higher, more expensive soft-
many C and Better Selects have a Band wood grades are kiln-dried to less interior projects. Kiln-dried lumber won't
Better face with backs of a slightly lower than 10 percent. absorb moisture readily, so it's more stable.
grade that have minor imperfections, but
no knots. Air-dried vs. kiln-dried Calculating board feet
• D Select. A good practical grade for Both hardwood and softwood lumber Dealers typically price softwoods by the
many projects, D Selects have only minor begin as "green" boards sawn at mills from running (lineal) foot, and hardwoods by
defects, such as small, tight knots. the logs of freshly felled trees. A green the board foot, a volume measurement. A
• Molding stock. A special grade offered board's moisture content runs 28 percent board foot includes thickness, width, and
by a few mills, Molding Stock yields more or greater. This makes it unsuitable for length measurements that equal 144 cubic
than 70 percent clear rippings I" and woodworking because all wood shrinks, inches. The box below le{tprovides some
wider, 6' and longer. As the name implies, warps, and splits as it dries. sample calculations.
this grade is used to make moldings To remove moisture from green boards, The thickness of lumber, especially
because of its narrow yields. most manufacturers air-dry then kiln-dry hardwoods, is referred to in quarters of an
• Shop grades. The highest Shop grade, them. Air-drying lumber reduces moisture inch, such as 414(lifour quarters" or 1"),5/4
in 1W' and thicker dimensions, No.3 Clear content to 12-19 percent naturally-work- (1.25"), 6/4 (1.5"), 8/4 (2"), and so on. These
offers only a few well-placed defects, ers stack and separate the boards so that air hardwood thicknesses, however, are desig-
allowing for a very high yield of clear, two- circulates between them. Moisture content nated and the board footage calculated
faced stock. in the teens is okay for outdoor construc- before surfacing. Although you'll pay for
Beyond No. 3 Clear, Shop lumber falls tion, but is inadequate for interior projects, the full designated thickness, what you'll
into three other categories: No. 1 Shop, such as furniture and cabinets. Why? actually get in lumber surfaced two sides
No.2 Shop, and No.3 Shop. Widths run 5" Because wood will shrink in a drier interior (S2S)is shown in the chart above. Also, in
and wider, lengths 6' to 16'. No. 3 Clear environment, playing havoc with project a lumber store, the board footage is
yields 70 percent clear cuttings. In con- glue joints and finishes. rounded up or down to the nearest one-
trast, No. 1 Shop yields 50 percent clear Kiln-drying takes over where air-drying half board foot, except for more costly
cuttings, and No.2 Shop yields just 33Y3 leaves off. Large, ovenlike kilns with care- exotic or imported wood. Exotic wood is
percent clear cuttings. fully controlled temperatures drop mois- calculated to the inch, and will be rounded
ture to 6-9 percent, the ideal range for to the nearest hundredth of an inch .•
Written with Raymond L. Wilber
For more information

National Hardwood Lumber Assoc.
P.O. Box 34518
Memphis, TN 38184-0518
I--'-----=----'-'-~~ = board feet
901-377-1818, nhla.com
Western Wood Products Assoc.
1500 SW 1st Ave #870
1" X 6" X 96" = 576 1" X 6" X 8' = 48 Portland, OR 97201
576 -;-144 = 4 board feet 48 -;-12 = 4 board feet 503-224-3930, wwpa.org
woodmagazine.com 13
Make Sense of
Machining
U
nlike manufactured materials that have uniform
strength, density, and structure (such as plastics), there's
little in the makeup of wood that can be called consis-
tent. Variations in cell density and distribution within a board
are the norm, not the exception. Boards of different species can
react differently during the same machining operation.
Add to those variables the stresses introduced to wood
during the drying process, and you have an unpredictable (but
beautiful) material. In this article we take a look at how you can
best deal with wood's quirky characteristics during key machin-
ing steps. First, let's get familiar with basic wood structure.
How cell orientation influences

cutting smoothness
A board consists of millions of tiny cells, often called fibers,
that vary in size and shape. They're held together by lignin.
Some 95 percent of these cells run vertically in trees, or
lengthwise in boards cut from those trees. The remaining
cells, called rays, run perpendicular to the bulk of the fibers.
However you cut a piece of wood-with a saw blade, router
bit, planer knife, or even abrasive particles on sandpaper-
results vary depending whether you cut parallel or perpendic-
Cuts parallel to
ular to the wood fibers, left. Cuts parallel with the fibers,
the fibers remove more called rip cuts, require more power and tend to heat tip cut-
woody material and lignin ters, but machine cleanly. Cuts perpendicular to the fibers
than cuts across the fibers, which
encounter more hollow pockets. That's why
(crosscuts) generate less heat, but create fuzzing and splinter-
rip cuts require more power. ing, called tear-out.
If ripping cuts require a lot of power, why do they The problem:

machine so cleanly? Think of splitting a log with The kerf closes on a
an axe. The blade essentially wedges adjacent fibers board being ripped.
The solutions:
apart, causing the lignin to fail and the fibers to rip
• Avoid boards containing
open lengthwise, which they do easily. Much the pith, as well as boards that
same happens when you rip wood using power have inconsistent growth-
tools. Blades and bits remove lignin and cut the ring spacing.
fibers with a shearing action. This minimizes tear- Bow and • Avoid boards showing
out and generates heat. crook signs of improper drying,
develop as
Often, rip cuts reveal hidden stresses in a board such as face checks,
tensions
caused by the fibers shrinking as the wood dried. are released. "honeycomb" cracks, and
Fibers may have been compressed or stretched by excessive warping.
those around them, and held in tension within the • Machine project parts
oversize to let the wood
board until you make a cut. These conditions are
release tension. Then
inconsistent across the width of the board, especially resurface and recut the
if it contains reaction wood (from leaning or twisted -,
pieces to size, removing

trees) or was cut near the center (pith) of the log. the imperfections.
We've all witnessed the results of these conditions, • Keep saw blades sharp
but may not have known their cause. and clean.

& &. .
Crosscuts, on the other hand, tear across fiber The problem:
walls, which introduces more stress on the mate- Wood fibers around the cut tear out.
rial. Think of slamming an axe into The solutions:
the side of a log: The blade smashes through a • Keep blades and bits sharp.
few layers of fibers, then stops. • Use a slow feed rate to reduce
pressure placed on the fibers.
Making a clean crosscut in a board
• Make multiple shallow passes.
requires a cutter sharp enough to slice fiber • Use zero-clearance tablesaw inserts and
walls, rather than smash through. Even back workpieces with scrapwood backer
sharp cutters bend the fibers ahead of and . '. _ .." boards. These support the wood fibers
surrounding the cut. Sometimes, the wood ~. ,'",";:t:.( where the cutter exits the workpiece to
" " L-';; "~;.>',~,'
tears before the blade cuts through. ft1fJ.;:",;."r;. ~f.ii:C?~i.: \~~:" reduce the likelihood of tear-out.
'ij~~~/f..,:
•...
Unfortunately, not all cuts fall neatly The problem:

parallel or perpendicular to the wood A jointer or planer produces a smooth
fibers. That's because we often cut surface on straight-grain portions of a
wood at angles, and because the fibers board, but tear-out on others.
The solutions:
- in wood run in all sorts of directions
• Take extremely light cuts to minimize
around knots as well as in burls tearing pressure on the wood fibers.
or other areas of abnormal growth. • Keep jointer and planer knives sharp.
These areas often produce inconsistent • Feed with the grain (see inset).
tear-aut-usually a minor problem on • Sand figured boards to thickness
board edges, but a big headache on the using a horizontal drum sander if you
face of a board. Tear-out on the face can have access to one.
ruin figured boards, such as those with • Dampen the wood surface before
curly or birds-eye patterns. planing to increase fiber flexibility.
Boring holes in wood presents The problem:

even more problems because Drilling produces holes with rough edges and
the spinning cutting edge of a tear-out where the bit exits the wood.
drill bit cuts through fibers run- The solutions:
• Don't feed the bit into the wood too quickly or with too
ning in multiple directions.
much force, or fibers will tear ahead of the cutting edge.
And a bit produces a great deal • Spin large-diameter bits more slowly to ensure
of pressure on the wood fibers adequate time for the bit to slice the wood and eject
ahead of and around it. This can waste, and to prevent overheating. (Find a drill-press
cause tear-out where the bit speed chart on pages 706-707 in the "Reference
enters the wood, in the walls of Guide" section.)
the hole, and, especially, where •... • Use backer boards to prevent tear-out.
it exits the wood. • Keep drill bits sharp and clean.
• • •
As trees convert sapwood to heartwood, the fiber walls take on The problem:
substances called extractives. They color wood and can increase Routing or cutting
rot resistance, but they pose machining challenges. leaves burn marks.
The solutions:
Extractives can be very abrasive. In some woods, the
extractives quickly dull cutters and lead to excessive heat • Keep blades and bits
sharp, and free of pitch.
buildup. That's why even softwoods that contain loads of
• Reduce heat by
extractives, such as cedar, can be "hard" on cutting edges. making multiple
Fiber walls also can contain resins that burn from router- shallow passes.
bit and saw-blade friction. These resins produce dark brown • Increase feed rate.
or black marks on the wood that often have to be sanded or • Decrease router
scraped away by hand after machining. Resins build up on speed .••
cutters, too, becoming pitch. Such woods as cherry, pine,
Written by David Stone
and maple are exceptionally resinous. Illustration: Eric Flynn
woodmagazine.com 15
Do you know what sheet goods work best for shop fixtures? Or which ones excel
in furniture construction? Armed with our chart, you'll be an instant expert.
M
Ost woodworkers know the While plywood remains prevalent, "high-density" varieties made up of
major virtues of plywood: more and more sheet goods are pro- ultrathin plies.
strength, stiffness, size, and duced from ground wood chips or wood You can familiarize yourself with the
stability. You may not be nearly as famil- pulverized into powder, mixed with uses, properties, costs, and sources of 10
iar, though, with the wide array of other adhesives and additives, then pressed contrasting sheet goods using the handy
sheet goods available today. No matter the . into sheets. This, in turn, becomes such chart on pages 18-19.
project, you'll find a type of sheet stock products as medium-density fiberboard Note: We purposely excluded some
ideally suited for the task at hand. (MDF) and particleboard. Even tradi- materials, such as oriented strand board
tional plywood has changed, with the (OSB) and pressure-treated plywood, which
Enhanced performance addition of new core materials, face are designed for building construction and
through engineering coverings, and increasingly popular have limited usefulness in the shop.
All sheet goods, including plywood, fall
into a broad category called "engineered
wood." Unlike solid lumber, which is sim-
ply cut from the tree and dried, engi- Surefire steps to sheet-goods success
neered products are further altered during 1. Always measure the thickness of sheet goods before machining mating pieces.
the manufacturing process to enhance or Plywood, for example, is Y32" thinner than its stated thickness.
suppress certain properties. 2. When cutting sheet goods on the tablesaw, place the good face up to prevent
Plywood, for example, consists of multi- tear-out. Place the good face down if using a handheld circular saw.
ple thin layers glued together with the grain 3. Ifyou work with particular sheet goods often, invest in saw blades designed
running at right angles on alternating lay- for that material to get the smoothest cuts and least chip-out.
ers. This enhances strength, decreases 4. Rather than wrestle a sheet onto the tablesaw, lay 2" rigid foam insulation on
dimensional changes, and places desirable the floor, place the sheet on it, and rough-cut using a circular saw.
wood only on the visible outer faces.

Sheet Goods Selector: Match the Product to the Project,

Material Description Uses Available sizes
PARTICLEBOARD Wood shredded into tiny chips (essen- Widely used as a substrate for Sold in Yo",%", o/a",
tially sawdust, often from waste wood), flooring and countertops, and for %",1 ", and 1 Va"
combined with adhesives, then heated building inexpensive knockdown thicknesses. Half and
and compressed to form sheets. furniture and cabinetry. Also suitable quarter sheets are
for some shop fixtures. often available.
MELAMINE Particleboard faced with paper Great for making cabinet carcases Sold in 49x97"
impregnated with melamine resin, because it wipes clean easily. oversize sheets
a type of plastic. Paper on low-cost Use it, as well, for shop fixtures or to in 1,4",Y211, o/all, and %"
types is simply adhered. Higher-cost make an economical router-table top. thicknesses.
sheets are thermally fused (essentially
melted together).
HARDBOARD Ground wood pulp combined with Excellent for shop fixtures and jigs Available in two
resins and pressed into sheets. (especially the variety with two thicknesses: Va" and
May be smooth on one or both faces. smooth faces) and covering Yo" in 4x8' sheets.
benchtops. Use perforated hard-
board for hanging tools.
MEDlUM·DENSITY Cellulose fibers combined with Excellent for shop jigs and fixtures, %",3/8 Y2", 0/8", %'\
11
,
FIBERBOARD(MDF) synthetic resin and formed under cabinets, painted projects, molding and 1'a" thicknesses in
heat and pressure. and millwork, furniture, and as both 4x8' and 49x97"
a substrate under veneer and sheets.
plastic laminate.
SOFTWOOD PLYWOOD Face-glued layers of thin softwood Outdoor projects (exterior rated), 1,4",0/16", 1Y32'\ Y2",
veneers. carpentry and construction, shop o/a", 2%2", and %"
cabinets, substrates, underlayment thicknesses in
for floors and countertops. . 4x8' sheets.
MEDIUM· DENSITY & Exterior-rated softwood plywood Used extensively for highway signs; 1;4",716", 3fall,Y211, 0/811,
HIGH·DENSITY OVERlAY covered on both faces with great for outdoor projects, siding, and %" thicknesses in
resin-impregnated fiber (paper). painted projects, watercraft, cabinets, 4x8' sheets.
PLYWOOD (MDOIHDO) shop fixtures, and concrete forms.
HARDWOOD PLYWOOD Veneers (soft- or hardwood) glued in The traditional sheet good of choice Yo", %", and %" are
layers with alternating grain, and for everything from furniture and most common.
covered with hardwood veneer. cabinets to wall paneling and boxes. Occasionally, you'll
find Va", 'Va", and o/a"
in some species.
BALnCAND Made from ultra-thin (Vi6"), void-free Use to create shop jigs and fixtures, In millimeters:
FINNISH BIRCH birch veneers. Finnish birch is like cabinets, drawer sides, furniture, 4 (Ya"), 6.5 (W'),
Baltic, but is made with exterior and as a substrate. 9 ('Va"), 12 (WO),
adhesive for outdoor use. 15 (o/a"), and 18 (%")
in 60x60" sheets.
APPLEPLY American version of Baltic birch, with Same uses as Baltic above, plus Available in Yo", 'Va",
alder and birch core plies and quality applications where a fine-hardwood V2", %",1", and 1%11
veneer faces. Birch face is standard, face veneer is needed. thicknesses, in 4x8'
other woods available. sheets.
BENDABLE PLYWOOD Plywood with a single face veneer Used mostly as a substrate for Va" and 'Va" are com-
and core plies with all grain running building cabinets, etc. with rounded mon, though thicker
perpendicular to the face to allow corners. Sheets with clear-face sheets are produced.
cross-grain bending. veneers are suitable for furniture. Sold in 4x8' sheets.
--.--
as Well as Your Budget
Common grades Pros Cons Where to find it Price (%"x4'x8'
sheet unless noted) !
PBU-for floor underlayment. PBU grade is readily available Low stiffness, heavy, Home centers carry 1;4- $16+ per sheet for PBU grade.
M-S, M-1, M-2, M-3 industrial and inexpensive. Particleboard holds fasteners poorly, %" PBU grade. "M" "M" grade prices range about
grades are best for making cuts easily and is fairly stable. not moisture resistant. grades (mostly M-2) are 20 percent higher.
shelving and countertops. found at building-material
and millwork suppliers.
There are no standard grades for Inexpensive, readily available, Not moisture resistant, Home centers carry W' $28+ for adhered-surface,
melamine, but there are "vertical" easy-clean surface, available heavy, edges chip easily and %" sheets, shelves, vertical-grade white sheets
and "horizontal" types. Higher- in a variety of colors and in when cutting unless you and closet parts. Colors common in home centers.
priced sheets generally feature wood-grain patterns. Also use blade designed for other than white and Colors and wood-grain patterns
thermally fused coatings and are available with kraft paper or cutting laminates. patterned papers are cost slightly more. $40+ for
made with thicker paper. real-wood veneer on one face. available by special order. thennally fused sheets.
Service (2 green stripes on edge) Readily available, easy to cut, Standard and Service Home centers carry $15 (W'x4'x8', tempered).
Standard (1 green stripe) relatively stable, available with grades are susceptible to 4x8' sheets plus half Perforated sheets are also
Service-tempered (2 red stripes) two smooth sides or one, moisture, can't sand and quarter sheets in available at a similar price.
Tempered (1 red stripe) takes paint well. faces, flexible, edges standard and tempered
S1S (smooth one side) , easily damaged, holds grades. Look for the
S2S (smooth two sides) fasteners poorly. edge stripes.
One main grade: Industrial. Lower Flat, no face or core voids, Heavy-100 Ibs. per Home centers carry $35+ for both MD and LD.
grades, which aren't commonly consistent thickness, glues sheet in MD grade; medium-density (MD) %"
available, carry "B" or "shop" grade. easily, has machinable edges. low-density (LD) version sheets. Low-density (LD)
Also classified by density: Medium- weighs approximately is available through
density (MD) is standard; low- 60 Ibs.-standard wood millwork suppliers and
density (LD) is a lightweight version. screws hold poorly. some hardwood retailers.
Veneer grades: A, B, C, D. Cheaper than hardwood ply, Built more for perfor- All home centers and $40+ for A-C sanded, varies by
Panel grades: include sheathing and readily available, face veneers mance than appearance; building-supply stores type and material.
"Sturd-I-Floor." can have a nice appearance in thick plies reduce stiff- carry an array of
Exposure: Exterior, Exposure 1, higher grades. ness; interior plies may softwood plywood
Exposure 2, Interior. have voids, face veneers for construction.
often patched.
Follows softwood plywood grading. Resistant to weather and Not widely available, Some home centers, $65+ for MDO; HDO costs
Face and back plies (which are water; flat, smooth surface is heavy. wood specialty stores, slightly more.
covered with paper) rate as B grade easily paintable, machines sign shops.
or better, inner plies are C grade. easily, and is very durable.
Face: AA, A, B, C/D/E, Special. More stable and less Thick sheets are heavy, Home centers carry a $40 to $100+
Back: 1, 2, 3, 4. expensive than solid wood, exposed ply edges may few species, such as Prices vary greatly due to spe-
Core: J, K, L, M. widely available, made in a mean you'll have to band oak, birch, maple. Turn cies, face and back grades,
Panel types: Technical type, Type I, variety of species, and with with solid wood, thin face to building suppliers ply count, and cut of veneer.
Type II {Type II most common for any choices for veneer veneers rM') are easy to and hardwood retailers A12 or B/2 is reasonably priced
interior use.) I 'matching on faces. sand through and damage. for other species. and suitable for furniture.
No standardized grades, but manu- Stiff, stable, consistent Hard to find, costly, Woodworking-supply $60+ for standard-size
factured with void-free plies and thickness, no voids, odd-size sheet (60x60"), stores, hardwood retail- 60x60" sheets.
face veneers carrying a grade of B nice-looking edge, holds available only with ers, mail-order catalogs
or better. screws. birch face. (small sizes).
No standardized grades, but manu- Stiff, stable, void-free, Difficult to find, costly, Visit statesind.com for $50+
factured with void-free plies and nice-looking edge, holds requires large order to distributor infonnation.
face veneers carrying a grade of B screws, offers a variety of get optional veneers.
or better. face veneers.
Able to conform to tight radii with- Flexibility allows radiused Not designed for Building-supply stores $35+ (YB"x4'x8' sheet)
out splitting or cracking with no corners, decorative shapes. structural use, quality and hardwood retailers.
need for kerf-bending or steaming. of face veneer varies
greatly.
woodmagazine;com 19
Assemble a Commonsense
Tool Kit
P
erhaps you've just completed a sional woodworkers and serious amateurs able. They're the items you're likely to find
beginning woodworking course, or depend on. If you've got the budget for most useful and use most often, so think
maybe you've assembled your first these, that's great. But to help you stretch about purchasing them first.
kit project. You thoroughly enjoyed this your tool dollar, we suggested some bench- Can you sidestep any processes for
taste of woodworking, and now you're top models because they'll still perform which you're not well equipped? Some
ready for bigger challenges. But one obsta- some necessary tasks as well as their bigger, retail wood outlets will joint, rip, plane,
cle blocks your way: You don't own the stationary counterparts. and crosscut lumber to requested dimen-
proper tools. What tools does a beginning Even with these benchtop tools, if you sions. You pay for this service, but in the
woodworker need, and how should he or walk into a tool store or home center and short run it's less expensive than buying
she acquire them? ask for everything on our list, the clerk tools you'd need to do the work yourself.
This basic woodworking tool kit con- might ask you to turn over a couple of As you budget for each project you
tains the tools we think should be part of grand, or more. How can you get a start in build, try to figure in the purchase of one
any shop. With this equipment-and a this hobby without robbing a bank? The new and necessary tool. You'll spread out
little skill-you can perform most wood- answer is to plan carefully and buy wisely. the cost of equipping your shop, and you'll
working operations. be able to enjoy a new tool with each proj-
When assembling our kit, we kept the Plan Ahead ect you undertake.
beginning woodworker in mind. You'll Equip your shop a few tools at a time. As Finally, remember that there ate wood-
notice that the list doesn't include large, your skills improve, so will your tool workers who make exceptional pieces with
stationary machines-the tablesaws, drill inventory. In the basic kit on the next page, only hand tools (and a little perspiration).
presses, bandsaws, and jointers that profes- we list the tools that we find indispens- We are addicted to the power tools in our

shop, but we know that life can go on
Common Tools that Make
without them.
Up a Basic Shop
. Be a Smart Tool Shopper
When you're ready to buy tools, do your Measuring/marking tools:
research and shop carefully. There's a .12' measuring tape
wealth of tool reviews on our website • Combination square
(woodmagazine.com/ptreviews) and other .12" steel rule
woodworking sites to help you pick a • Marking knife
• Sliding T-bevel
model with optimal features. Online 13" benchtop thickness planer
retailers, such as Amazon, allow you to Hand cutting tools:
compare several tools at once and also • Japanese crosscut saw (pull saw) Portable power-tool accessories:
provide customer reviews. Some home • Coping saw • Router bits (W' & W straight bit,
centers will match or beat competitors' W'-W' round-over, rabbeting bit
Hand shaping tools with bearings, buy profiles as
advertised prices. So take advantage of • Bench chisels C.4", W', W', 1") needed)
such deals. Don't rush yourself. • Block plane • Brad-point drill bits (Ys"-W in
Mail-order ads in magazines, such as • Hand scrapers 1;\6" increments)
WOOD®, regularly offer substantial price • Forstner bits CI2"-lW' in
General hand tools: Va"increments)
reductions on top-quality tools. And deep
• Screwdriver set (flat/Phillips/square/ • Twist bits CA6"-W'
discounts and closeouts are such a normal Torx) in V32" increments)
marketing practice for online outlets and • Pliers (slip-joint and needle-nose) • 7W' carbide-tipped circular-saw
home centers, it sometimes seems difficult • Utility knife blades (24 and 40 teeth)
to pay full retail price. • Dead-blow mallet
Some manufacturers offer two product • Wooden mallet Benchtop power tools:
• Claw hammer (16-oz) • Drill press
lines: inexpensive tools for hobbyists, and • Finish hammer (8-oz) • Thickness planer
more elaborate heavy-duty models for
• Compound mitersaw
commercial and professional use. Which Portable power tools: • Router table
type do you need? Just don't fall into the • W' cordless drill/driver • 10" tablesaw
"overkill" trap. If a l-hp router will be • Random-orbit sander • Jointer (4" min.)
• Jigsaw
entirely adequate for your needs, don't
• 7W' circular saw Safety equipment:
buy a 3-hp model. • Plunge router or plunge/fixed-base • Safety glasses
In general, it makes sense to buy the router kit (l-hp min., with 1f2" collet) • Hearing protection (earplugs or
best equipment you can afford, particu- earmuffs)
larly when you're purchasing hand tools. • Basic first-aid kit
It's unlikely that a good saw or plane will • Dust mask or respirator
become obsolete, and with basic mainte- Clamps (You can't have too many):
nance, there's no reason why these tools • One-hand bar clamps (four 6" and
can't last a lifetime and become an heir-: four 12" )
loom to pass along to future generations. • Pipe clamps (four 24" with couplers
Good tools don't go out of style. A to make 48" clamps)
• Parallel-jaw clamps (four 24" or 36")
lOO-year-old hand plane or wood chisel
• Handscrews and C-clamps (as
works pretty much the same as a brand- needed for projects)
new one. And some woodworkers insist
that the older the tool, the higher the Miscellaneous and maintenance
quality. In fact, some classic models of old tools:
• Sharpening stones with honing
tools can actually be more expensive than guide
new models. • Pocket-hole jig
Online auctions, estate sales, and news- .6" bench grinder
paper classifieds are often good sources for • Shop vacuum
low-cost, high-quality items, so think
about buying your tools used. You might
Shop vacuum
even find a great deal on that stationary
tablesaw or jointer we'd so much like to see
parked in your shop .•
woodmagazine.com 21
Top Buys in
6 Power
Tools
Don't wait until you can

afford a shop full of pricey .&. Best Value: Skilsaw 5580-01, $60
The 13-amp SS80-01, above, had no trouble cutting
pro-level tools. You can anything we threw at it. It readily met our standards
start crafting high-quality Take the tool to the work for power, ease of adjustment, and comfort. With
with a circular saw a blade upgrade, a shop-made straightedge (More
Resources, page 2S), and a taped, well-supported
woodworking projects Don't discount the circ saw as just a cutline, we made clean, arrow-straight cuts.
rough-cutting tool for breaking down 877-7S4-S999, skiltools.com
with these six basic (and
sheet goods into manageable size. With
inexpensive) tools. the proper adjustments and techniques,
you'll be making clean, accurate rips and 'T Upgrade: Makita 5007MG, $150
crosscuts every time. The S007MG steps you up to a more powerful1S-
amp motor and more bevel range (0-S6°).
S
O, you've started a power tool collec- The best circular saws.with 12 or more
The large, soft grips make this easy-to-adjust saw
tion and are now wondering where amps of power, will cut through even comfortable to use, while magnesium components
to put that hard-earned cash next. 2 -thick hardwood. But in addition to
1t
make it rugged but light in weight.
How do you avoid buying junk or break- muscle, demand clean, accurate cuts. To 800-462-S482, makita.com
ing the bank? To answer that question, we that end, look for quick and intuitive
tested a raft of low-cost portable power depth-of-cut and bevel adjustments, an
tools to see which offer the most perfor- unobstructed view of the cutline, and a
mance for the money. Along with a few comfortably light weight. We recom-
basic hand tools and accessories, these six mend replacing the factory-supplied .' ~
power tools enable you to make a wide blade' with a premium thin-kerf, =«:
variety of great-looking projects, such as 40-tooth, carbide-tipped blade for

those beginning on page 75, or on our web- general-purpose work. Try Diablo's
site at woodmagazine.com/bbprojects. D0740A: $20, diablotools.com.
22
The tablesaw: Go for quick setup and repeatable accuracy
For accuracy on smaller project parts, it's getting a good table saw. Mid-price ($150- You'll also quickly grow irritated by a
time to bring in a larger tool: the tablesaw.· $300) portable tablesaws offer accuracy flexing fence or an out-of-square miter
Wfien you add a tablesaw to your arsenal, and affordability, while maintaining their gauge. The quality of these components is
you gain the ability to quickly set up accu- small, stowable size. especially important on portable tablesaws
rate and repeatable rips, crosscuts, bevels, Power and accuracy rule when choosing that can't be upgraded with an aftermar-
miter cuts, dadoes, grooves, and rabbets. a portable tablesaw. Most use direct-drive, ket fence or miter gauge.
Most seasoned woodworkers will tell .universal motors, as do handheld power Finally, consider capacity. We recom-
you that if you're going to invest extra tools. Still, our Best Value, below, managed mend at least 24" of rip capacity for
bucks anywhere, put your money into cuts through 2"-thick oak. cutting sheet goods in half. Most bench-
top models can crosscut pieces up to about
8" wide.
As with the circular saw, you'll want to
switch out the manufacturer's blade for a
premium combination blade for smooth,
splinter-free cuts.
~ Best Value: Skil3310, $125

At about the price of a premium portable circular saw,
the 3310 offers tablesaw convenience and accuracy in a
package that fits small shops easily. The 20x26" aluminum
table gives rip capacity of 11W' to the left of the blade and
11" tothe right. The 3310 cuts 2W' deep at 45°, and 3" at
90°. The self-aligning rip fence locks firmly with a flip of the
front lever. The saw provides onboard storage for a spare
blade and the blade wrenches on the back of the case, and
it stands on sturdy steel legs.
877-754-5999, skiltools.com
~Upgrade:Contractor-style saw
A contractor's saw in the $500-$800 range could serve
you for decades. You'll give up some portability and
compactness, but you'll gain a quieter, more powerful
induction motor; a larger cast-iron table for better
workpiece support, a much stouter rip fence; greater
cutting capacities in every direction; and heavier, vibration-
dampening construction. At $529, the Ridgid R4512 fits the
bill nicely and comes with a built-in mobile base.
800-474-3443, ridgid.com
woodmagazine.com 23
GET EQUIPPED
The router-What can't it do?

One of the most versatile tools in wood- motor, and interchangeable fixed and kit with plenty of power to hog away the
working, a router cuts a variety of joints, plunge bases. Both bases give you micro- material, and a comfortable, in-control
adds decorative shape to edges and trim adjustable depth control. The plunge base feel. Check the ease-of-use factors, such as
pieces, duplicates parts, joints edges, and lets you make cuts that start and stop short quick bit changes, depth-of-cut settings,
much more. of the workpiece edge, while the fixed base and smooth plunging. Make sure the
For maximum versatility at a minimum can be mounted in a router table, adding on-off switch is easy to operate while
price, pick a two-base kit that includes a even more to your tool lineup. Look for a maintaining a firm grip on the handles.
Fixed
base
• Best value: Craftsman 17543, $120 • Upgrade: Bosch 1617EVSPK, $220

Although bit changes and depth adjustments could be easier to make, the This kit has power to spare, and proves a dream to use with a comfortable
17543 offers good power, easy base changes, and an LEDworklight. Edge- fixed base and easy-to-use, balanced plunge base. The controls are within
guide and dust-collection attachments-pricey add-ens for other router easy reach; the adjustments among the most accurate, repeatable, and
kits-come included with this one. simple to make; and the plunge-depth scale easy to read.
Visit a Sears store or craftsman.com 877-267-2499, boschtools.com
A cordless drill/driver makes parts into projects

['oday's multitalented cordless
drills drive lag screws through
deck lumber as easily as they tease
tiny hinge screws into jewelry-box
lids. Accessorize a drill with a
good brad-point bit set and coun-
tersinks and you'll be well
equipped to transform that flat
stack of project parts into an
assembled piece of furniture.
A I2-volt lithium-ion (Li-Ion)
drill packs enough punch for
common drilling and driving
tasks, all while easily squeezing
into tight spaces. So you're not
interrupted by downtime, get one
that includes two batteries. Also
look for two speed ranges (for • Best value: Porter-Cable PCL120DDC, $100 • Upgrade: Makita XFD01RW, $200
drilling holes and driving screws), This compact 12-volt lithium-ion model, with its This Iightweight-3.3 pounds- and comfortable drill
stem-style battery, is comfortable in your hand, yet jumps to 18-volt power and slashes the charge time
and multiple clutch settings to powerful enough for most jobs around the shop. It to less than 30 minutes. That added power delivers
prevent shearing screws or strip- recharges in well under an hour, and an extra battery a whopping 480 ln-lbs, of torque. Internal circuitry
ping out their heads. comes standard. The %" chuck will handle most protects against overloading, over-discharging, and
standard bits, and two speed settings let you drive overheating. The h" chuck accepts larger bits.
For heavy-duty jobs, you'll screws or drill holes. It also has a built-in task light and 800-462-5482, makitatools.com
want to jump to an IS-volt model. belt hook. 888-848-5175, portercable.com

Going around the bend
with a jigsaw
When a handsaw's not in the budget, a
jigsa.w:helps you cut affordable curves.
Don't worry about gimmicky add-ons=-a
laser won't help you track around a curved
corner. Stick to the basics: Quick, toolless
blade changes, easy bevel adjustments,
and a clean line of sight. Upgraded models
often include niceties such as sturdy blade
rollers to prevent deflection, a variable-
speed trigger, or a sawdust blower to keep
your cutline in clear view. Once again,
.•. Best value: Black & Decker JS515, $30 .•. Upgrade:BoschJS365,$130
upgrading to a premium blade, such as This bare-bones jigsaw gets the job done. The This jigsaw has a respectable motor and dual speed
Bosch's Xtra-clean (no. T308B, 5-pack $14, J5515 had one of the largest depths of cut (2 '1'32" controls. The handle and trigger are comfortable,
877-267-2499, boschtools.com), vastly with our 4" test blade), excelled at keeping the and it's easy to release a blade using the body-
cutline clear of dust, and sped through easy mounted lever, although the chuck does not eject
improves cut quality, reducing blade blade changes. the blade. The shoe tilts in both directions.
marks, splintering, and burning. 800-544-6986, blackanddecker.com 877-267-2499, boschtools.com
The next four machines

Random-orbit sanders prove more aggres- long while sanding, so choose an aggres-
sive at removing machining marks than sive tool that leaves a smooth, scratch-free to consider
t ei,r uarter-sheet orbital-only cousins. finish. And because random-orbit sanders Drill Press: If you
And they still provide smooth, scratch- create some of the finest, most breathable think a drill press is just
for punching holes,
free finishes as you work through finer sawdust of any tool, good dust collection
think again. While it
grits of sandpaper. counts. Finally, a sander should be com- does give you a much
But even with the added speed of a fortable, dampening the level of vibration greater level of control
power sander, nobody wants to linger too that gets transferred to your hand. and accuracy for
drilling clean,
perpendicular holes, it
.•••Best value: Milwaukee
can also be
6021-21, $70
This sander scored high marks
accessorized into a
in all of our key performance spindle sander or mortising machine.
categories: aggressiveness,
smooth finish, dust control, and Jointer and
comfort. Planer:
800-729-3878, These two tools
milwaukeetool.com will quickly pay
for themselves as
Upgrade: none you wean
You won't need a better random-
orbit sander than this.
yourself off of
expensive
presurfaced home-
center lumber and
start squaring and
• • &
• thicknessing rough-
cut stock.
FREE VIDEOS
• Precision Cuts with a Cire Saw Straightedge at
woodmagazine.com/straightedge
.6
RELATED ARTICLES
BasicSkillsEveryWoodworker
Should KnowAbout,
Bandsaw: Stepping
• Fine-Furniture Accuracy from any Tablesaw at woodmagazine.com/,WOOD183 $ up to a bandsaw not
woodmagazine.com/tssetup • The accessories: glue, clamps, and fasteners only gives you
• Perpendicular Holes Without a Drill Press at woodmagazine.com/bbaccessories increased control on
woodmagazine.com/perpdrilling • Find hundreds of power-tool reviews at curves, it also opens
RELATED PLANS woodmagazine.com/ptreviews up your options for
• Simplejigs and Shop Aids precision joinery,
woodmagazine.com/simplejigs ($ = Download this issue for a small fee.) and the possibility of
resawing.
woodmagazine.com 25
T
here's more to measuring and result than cutting to the other side. Accu- part), apply a piece of masking tape and
marking than stretching a tape rate layout of parts and joinery requires the write on the tape.
across a board and drawing a pen- fine line drawn by a pencil with a SH lead, When marking a line that will be cut
cil line. By using the right tools and available at office-supply stores. The harder away or hidden by other parts, switch to a
accessories, you'll greatly improve your lead sharpens to a finer point and holds marking knife, above. The beveled face
precision and even speed up your work. that point longer. and flat back of the knife put the cutting
Fortunately, these improved results don't Save your carpenter's and no. 2 pencils edge right next to a straightedge for a sur-
require fancy gizmos or staring through for writing notes and marking machined gically precise mark. And a sharp marking
a jeweler's loupe. surfaces, below right, where bolder marks knife severs the wood fibers, creating a
are easier to spot at a glance. Those let you shallow kerf-the ideal starting point to
Be sharp to make your mark know which operations are completed, and register the blade of a chisel or the teeth of
Let's focus first on the most basic item- which need to be done on a board. a handsaw. The kerf also creates a shadow,
what you mark with-and how it affects Apencil won't leave permanent marks on which is easier to see on the workpiece
accuracy. The thick lead of a carpenter's a workpiece; the marks erase or sand away than a pencil line.
pencil draws a line Yl6" wide, below. Cutting easily. To avoid leaving a mark in the first To use a marking knife, place a steel
to one side of the line yields a far different place (such as when marking a finish-sanded rule on the "keeper" piece and, with the
I •
KEEPTRACK OF MACHINING
Mark a curlicue on the jointed face, a "V" on the
jointed edge pointing to the jointed face, and
an "X" on an end yet to be crosscut.
Jointed face Joint~dedge
,
Line from
pencil with ~ -:.~ •• face
SHlead
A carpenter's pencil leaves a thick, easy-to-see line, good for labeling parts.
A 5H lead makes a much finer line for precise layouts.
-. _ ...• , .
-
--j-~:. -
.

flat face of the knife against the rule,
draw the knife along. If the knife should
stray off course, the mark ends up on the
waste piece.
Establish a definitive rule

Every country has a bureau of standards,
which maintains a set of incredibly precise
measuring instruments against which
other measuring devices are calibrated.
Carry this concept into your workshop.
Choose a precise, finely etched 12" steel
rule for the bulk of your measuring tasks.
A quality combination square provides
not only such a rule; the head, with 90°
and 45° angles built in, increases the tool's
versatility. [See Photo A on page 30.] For
measurements longer than 12", use only
one 12' tape measure. Anything longer is
just extra bulk to carry. And check the Make your own marking knife
tape against the rule to make sure they You can buy a marking knife, but why not make your own? For plans to make
agree, below. this handcrafted marking knife, check out woodmagazine.com/markingknife.
Now that you've established which rule
rules the roost, make sure everything else
in your shop agrees with it; for example,
the rip-fence indicators on your bandsaw fourth, one-fifth, or three times 7W' brings First, select reference edges and faces
and tablesaw, below right, and any other out the pencil and paper compared with and measure from them as often as pos-
rulers. If other rulers don't measure up, working with its metric equivalent, 20cm. sible. For example, when laying out a
, relegate them to the house. series of drawer openings along a cabi-
A metric rule can come in handy, too, Put accurate tools to use net's stiles, always measure from the
especially if calculations with imperial After choosing quality measuring and same end' of each stile. After marking
dimensions give you a headache. For marking tools, use these simple techniques the locations, measure between the
example, determining one-half, one- to get the most accurate results . marks to double-check your accuracy.
Markings on this tape perfectly match those on the steel rule, eliminating any
.1'
Using your reference ruler, check the accuracy of the tablesaw rip-fence scale.
error caused by switching between them. Check your tape occasionally to make Loosen the adjustment screws, adjust the indicator as needed, and then
sure a bent hook hasn't thrown off its accuracy. tighten the screws, making sure the indicator doesn't shift.
woodmagazine.com 27
•
When marking, make sure you sight gle tick mark. A single line can end up Finding the center of a workpiece is sim-
straight down on the ruler. Working to angled, causing confusion over which ple: Measure the width, then divide that
one side throws off what appears to be end is the real dimension. To extend a number in half. To confirm your math,
an accurate mark, above. line or transfer it around an edge, place measure in that distance from each edge
To mark a dimension, draw a "V" your knife or pencil on the tip of the "V" and make a mark, below. If the marks fall on
extending from the ruler instead of a sin- and gently slide your square or ruler up to top of each other, you've found dead center.
it. Then use moderate pressure and draw If not, adjust the measurement by half of
the pencil or knife across the workpiece the amount between them and try again.
once. Repeated passes only widen the In some instances, the most accurate mea-
mark, reducing accuracy. surement comes from avoiding a ruler or tape.
Maintain the proper orientation of For example, when fitting a divider between
nearly identical parts as you mark them two rails in a face frame, bottom left, measur-
by indicating which surfaces are the top, ing and then transferring that dimension to
bottom, left, right, front, back, inside, the workpiece invites at least two chances for
and outside as needed. For several pieces error to creep in. Instead, place the workpiece
needing identical layout marks, such as against the opening and mark the dimension
matching mortises in opposing table directly onto the workpiece.
legs, save time and improve accuracy by Apply these methods to your work and
clamping the pieces together and mark- watch the improvement. •
ing across all of them at once, left. Produced by Craig Ruegsegger
Striking lines across several pieces with one setup

ensures that the marks align. Labels help you place
the marks on the correct faces.
Rest a knife flat against the rail, then press the Don't get hung up on difficult division of fractions. Instead, lock the rule at about half of the panel's width,
cutting edge against the workpiece. Use a square then measure in from each edge and make a light mark. Adjust the rule length as needed until you end up
to help transfer the mark to the face. with overlapping marks that confirm the center of the workpiece.

Tune Your Tools
Before milling lumber to size or cutting joints, tune your tools to cuttrue .
...- Tablesaw A ~ -
/'"
4. Check the miter-
gauge stops for 45°
2. Check that the rip _
f and 90°. Even slight
fence stands square -. errors here will throw
to the table and locks ~ / / off the squareness of
parallel to the blade. ~~ ajoint.
T
o get the most out of your tools,
they need to be tuned up periodi-
cally so they deliver accurate cuts. 1. Align the b
The owner's manuals should have details parallel to th
slot so that a
for making most of the adjustments listed
at the front 0
here. See More Resources below for addi- blade doesn'
tional help with proper tool setup. as it passes th
the blade.
Jointer 3. To square an edge to the face

of a board, the jointer fence must
sit perpendicular to the tables.
Set the drill-press table to bore dowel joints Edge-gluing two boards with
and mortises perpendicular to the surface of a out-of-square edges creates a
workpiece. Check the table by mounting a Z-shape cupped or uneven panel.
wire in the drill press and turning the chuck by
hand. The wire should make even contact at all ~ ~/,;t:-:---.
'1
points around the table. Then install the fence and
ensure that its face sits perpendicular to the table. 2. Set the outfeed tab~:----
to the same height as
the knives at the top
of their travel. This
__ ..•....1. To create flat
~ For a free article on truing up prevents snipe
stock, the infeed
jointer tables, go to (a deeper cut at the
end of a board). and outfeed
woodmagazine.com/truetables. tables must be
~ Watch a free video on tuning up parallel to each.
your tablesaw or drill press at -::::,""""""-j- __ other along their
woodmagazine.com/tstuneup lengths and from
woodmagazine.com/drillpress. side to side.
woodmagazine.com 29
Start square. ••
.. .to
---, finish
square ARE THE LINES PARALLEL?
From tuned-up tools 'til you tighten the clamps,

it's hip to be square. Here's how to get there.
hether you build a jewelry box A good combination square (see More
W or a dresser, square assemblies

begin with square stock and
properly cut joinery. Apply these top-
Resources, page 32, to find reviews of
squares) performs most checks. But keep a
4" engineer's square in an apron pocket to
notch techniques with finely tuned fit in small interior spaces.
tools; then use our reliable methods for But how do you know your square is...
checking your work, and say goodbye to well, square? To find out, place the head
off-kilter corners. against the straight edge of a scrap. Draw
along the length of the blade, then flip the
Check your standards square over and draw a second line about rlJl ----'"
Square machine setups, workpieces, and Vt6" from the first [Photo A]. Parallel lines Use the factory edge of a piece of MDF or plywood
to perform this test. Draw lines with a sharp pencil
assemblies begin with an accurate square. indicate a square you can trust. or marking knife.

Cut parts and SIX STEPS TO PERFECT STOCK PREP
joints accurately
With your tools properly tuned, focus
on producing the most accurate cuts
possible when milling project parts and STEP4
Plane the opposite face
cutting joinery. to bring the workpiece
~ Use your jointer, planer, and tablesaw to finished thickness.
to bring stock to size, following the steps

shown at right. For greatest accuracy,
STEPS
crosscut pieces less than 40" long on the Rip the piece to
tablesaw, as detailed in the next para- width at the tablesaw.
STEP3
graph. Use a mitersaw for longer pieces. Joint one
edge square to
~ Assemblies, such as face frames, boxes, the jointed face.
and tables, require two or more pieces
crosscut to identical length-otherwise
STEP 2
the assembly ends up a trapezoid or worse. Joint one face flat.
To cut pieces to identical length, screw
an extension to your miter gauge [Photo STEP€;
Crosscut each end
B]. The additional surface steadies a to bring the workpiece STEP 1
workpiece far better than the narrow to finished length. Cut to rough width and
face of the miter gauge. We prefer to use length using the tablesaw,
bandsaw, and/or mitersaw.
medium-density fiberboard (MDF) for
extensions because it's flat and inexpen-
sive. Fences get chewed up with use; cut your tablesaw-blade angle, miter-cut the jig with clamps or double-faced tape
several at a time so you always have a four identical-length pieces and dry-fit whenever possible to prevent the work-
fresh one on hand. them together [Photo C]. If each of the piece from shifting during the cut.
With the extension mounted, crosscut eight cuts is off just 14°,that equals 2° ~ After milling all the parts, check
one end of each workpiece to square it to overall, and the error shows up as a gap them for square. When checking the
the edges. Then clamp a stopblock to the as you close the fourth corner. end of a workpiece, place the square's
extension, butt the cut end against it, and ~ Jigs can improve accuracy when cut- head firmly against one edge and slide it
crosscut the opposite .end to bring the ting joints [Photo D]. But just like your down until the blade just touches the
piece to finished length. tools, ensure that the jig keeps work- end of the workpiece [Photo E] (on page
~ Miter joints are particularly fussy, pieces square to the blade or bit. 32). Hold the piece up and sight against
especially when cutting four mitered ~ When using a jig or miter gauge on a light source or white surface to high-
pieces, as for a box or frame. To check the tablesaw, secure your workpiece to light any gap.
Blue tape
holds corners
temporarily.
m m ,...-:;.~
An extension supports a workpiece during the cut Cutting and fitting a test box helps determine the A saddle jig used for cutting tenon cheeks must
and provides a surface for attaching a stopblock precision of your setup because any error will be rest square to the table and ride smoothly on the
for cutting pieces to identical length. multiplied by eight. fence without wobble.
woodmagazine.com 31
~
TOOL SKILLS AND TIPS
Jointer: The essential straightening machine

If you work with rough lumber, you really should own a good
jointer. It's the best tool for cutting a square, clean, straight edge,
as shown at right, as well as for cleaning and flattening a board's
face. Although a 6" jointer performs well, consider stepping up to
an 8" jointer. The bigger machine not only handles wider stock,
but also has longer infeed and outfeed tables to better support
long workpieces.
We don't recommend using auxiliary stands to add infeed and
outfeed support to jointers because boards with rough or crooked
edges can sometimes knock stands over and possibly cause the
jointer's knives to gouge the board. Rely on your iointer to machine a straight, squareedqe on a
relatively straight board in just a pass or two.
Best case: No crook ~--===-=~ ~ ~-- ""

Consider yourself ahead of the game if A router will also help you machine a from the workpiece edge and equal to the
your workpiece falls into this category. straight edge onto this type of board. If it amount you want to remove. Make two
Regardless of length, you should be able to has a rough-sawn face, use a guide board passes, if necessary.
machine a straight edge quickly with a with a smooth face and a straight edge on With boards that have smooth faces,
jointer, above. If you don't own a jointer, top of your workpiece, as shown bottom, clamp a straightedge (this can be a board,
use your tablesaw to cut away the rough left. Use a top-bearing pattern bit in the shop-made guide, or commercial accessory)
edges, as shown below. router. Set the guide board slightly back onto your workpiece. The router-as it runs
along the guide=should remove no more
than Y16" with each pass, as shown bottom,
center. Make as many passes as-needed to
straighten the edge.
You also can cut a straight edge at your
router table, but it takes a little more setup.
First, chuck a straight or spiral bit in your
table-mounted router and set the height
for just a little more than the thickness of
the workpiece. Set the infeed fence so it
will remove no more than Y16". Align the
outfeed fence flush with the front edge of
the cutter. If you don't have a split fence,
simply clamp or double-face-tape a piece
of plastic laminate, equal to the amount of
When cutting with this method, run the straightest edge against the rip fence to avoid potential kickback. material you want to remove, to the out-
Cut away the opposing rough edge (left), adjust the fence, flip the board so the new edge is against the
fence, and rip the other rough edge (right). feed side of the fence, as shown below.
Rest your router subbase on top of the guide board For this method, use either an upcut or downcut Sand a slight chamfer on the end of the laminate
and run the bearing against its edge. Trim no more spiral bit or a straight bit that extends beyond the nearest the bit so the workpiece won't catch as you
than 1f16" per pass. board's thickness. feed it through.

Typical case: Slight crook
Many boards fall into this category when few passes to straighten anedge. You'll use with each subsequent pass until flat. Or,
they warp as they swell or shrink acclimat- the same technique for the tablesaw and "nibble" several passes on one end before
ing to the environment around them. bandsaw: ripping with the concave edge spinning the board to do the same for the
Plan your straight edge to give the board against the rip fence. Edges cut on: the other end, as shown in the drawing below.
the best grain direction in the project. bandsaw or tablesaw, although straight, Repeat until the crook is nearly gone, then
Boards like this will be machined in differ- will have saw marks that clean up with joint the entire length,
ent ways, depending upon their length. one quick pass at the jointer. The router- The tablesaw and bandsaw again pro-
table option leaves a jointer-smooth edge, vide good options, but with one important
Make quick work of boards but takes more setup time than a jointer. change. For boards longer than I', add a
l' long or less long auxiliary fence to maintain contact
For short boards try the simplest options Choose from many options between the end points of the board's con-
first: jointer, table saw, or bandsaw. The for boards 1-3' long cave edge and the fence, as shown bottom
jointer proves quickest, even if it takes a Boards of these lengths offer you the most left. Make your auxiliary fence twice as
options of any size stock. At the jointer long as the workpiece, plus an extra 6" at
you've got two ways to handle these each end, and center it with the blade.
boards. First, joint the edge as usual, con- Clamp it to the rip fence, or adhere it with
cave edge down, taking off a little more cloth-backed, double-faced tape.
To use your router table for this length of
~:::-=::::;;;=4--_ Take several light cuts off each board, combine the extra-long auxiliary
end first; then joint the full fence of the tablesaw method with the nib-
length of board.
bling action of the jointer, as shown bottom
center. Use a sharp straight or spiral bit
(upcut or downcut). Using a handheld
router and straightedge will take several
passes, but requires little space, an attrac-
tive solution for shops tight on elbow room.
Cutting a straight edge proves easy
when using a carrier or sled, such as the
one shown below, on the tablesaw. To use
this sled, place your board so either edge
hangs over the edge of the sled, aligning
the board to cut the most attractive grain
pattern. Secure it with the hold-downs, or
use screws at the ends. Raise the blade so it
cuts through the piggybacked workpiece.
Build this sled from the plans on page 36.
An auxiliary fence allows the workpiece to follow For an auxiliary fence on your router table, cut an The hold-downs can grip a workpiece's sides or
a straight path, which lets the bandsaw cut a opening in the center, along an edge, for the bit to ends. Hold the sled flat on the table and against
straight, wander-free edge. spin freely. the fence when ripping.
woodmagazine.com 35
't> ~,,~ --- '~ ••• ~ _NO -- ') ~ ~;'t~;;;T
TOOL SKILLS &TIPS ",

CARRIAGE-BOLT
HEAD DETAIL
\4-20 ca rriage bolt
Worst case:
3W' long
TABLESAW RIPPING SLED
Severe crook
3" .' ,\--;-

File head of carriage ". o~ .>: :\\·· Before machining a board like this, first
bolt flat on two sides, \4" holes determine how it can best be used. Remov-
ing the crook from a lO'-Iong board means
wasting a great deal of wood, as shown
below. If you really need a long board, try
/1;.,,,fender washer
to find one with a straighter profile. If you
"-I 2%"1
"
o
.
Y2" groove \4" deep
must get long workpieces from these
boards, you have three options: First, rip
Y2")~ with a circular saw; second, use a sled on
\4-20 ca rriage bolt
3Y2" long~
I the tablesaw; and third, use the bandsaw
with an auxiliary fence-but only for
workpieces 3' or less. Longer boards just
Don't sweat straightening boards longer than 3' create more difficulties on the bandsaw.
You have four options with these boards: To use a straightedge, first determine the
jointer, router with a straightedge, circular crook's widest point by laying the board
saw, or a tablesaw sled. If you have a 6" next to a straightedge, as shown below. At
jointer, use the "nibbling" method; if you one end of the board make a mark equaling
have an 8" jointer, you'll be okay to use the widest point from the crooked edge.
either method because of the support from Measure the distance from the blade to the
the longer tables. edge of the saw base below the motor.
Your circular saw provides yet another Clamp a straightedge to the workpiece that
way to cut a straight edge. You can do this exact distance from the mark you made.
by using a straightedge, or by snapping a With the saw base following the guide, rip
chalk line to map out the cut, and then away the crook. You can make a reliable
ripping along that line, as shown below. straightedge guide-which also eliminates
Laser guides, available on some saws, make chip-out and aligns quickly along your cut-
it easy to track a chalked or drawn line. line-from the plans on the next page.
Cutting this maple board, left, to remove the crook

With a line marked, use rigid foam insulation for a along the entire length wastes wood and leaves a
sacrificial cutting surface. Set the blade depth so the narrow workpiece. Instead, cut it into two pieces,
saw cuts slightly into the foam. right, to maximize its width.
36 Get Started in Woodworking·

Make your own zero-clearance cutoff guide
You can construct two cutoff guides, a
4- and 8-footer, for use on different Line up saw against fence and cut to remove waste.
workpiece lengths. Made to custom-fit
your circular saw and router, both
r3"----j--2"- I • 6"
I JV2'
guides can be constructed from one
~~~~~~~~-J
sheet of Y:z" plywood. (We recommend
a sheet with sanded faces.) Here's how:
t=_41_!4_" __ 11,,3_V:_2"_----j ll
II Begin by snapping a chalk line along
the entire length of the sheet 11" from
the edge. Using your circular saw, rip
along that line. Exposed suface
II Use the factory edge of the cutoff forclaming
piece as a guide for your circular saw to to workpiece,
#8 x%" F.H.
make the rest of the cuts. From the wood screw
remaining plywood piece, rip two
strips 2" wide, two strips 8" wide, and %2" shank hole, i
r/
one strip 11"wide. countersurk i
II Cut the strips to the lengths shown
in the illustration at right, and assemble
the sleds, removing any glue squeeze-
out with a scraper or putty knife.
II Once dry, secure each sled to your
workbench, allowing clearance for the
saw blade. Using your circular saw with
the blade you would commonly use,
rip the edge on the wider side opposite
the fence, as shown below. Do the same
for the other side with your router.
Whichever diameter router bit you use 7/64' pilot hole
will be the size you should use in the v.," deep
future for making cut-offs. %2" shank hole, countersunk
CIRCULAR
SAW
FENCE
BASE
..
Produced by Bob Hunter with Jeff Mertz With your circular saw's base riding against the fence, rip the waste off each guide (left). To use the guide,
Illustrations by Tim Cahill and clamp it to a workpiece with the cutoff edge aligned on your mark. Set the saw blade to the appropriate
Roxanne LeMoine depth and make the cut (right).
woodmagazine.com 37
Eking Precision from
Discover shop-proven
3 Portable strategies to elevate

, "
your ore saw, Jigsaw,
and portable drill to
Power Tools the stratosphere of

performance.
M
anyseasoned woodworkers see the tools above as the But what if you don't own a tablesaw, bandsaw, or drill press?
rough-work trio, not to be mentioned in the same What if you don't have the extra jack to buy these stationary
breath with the word "precision." Most woodworkers tools? Can you do high-quality work with the much-maligned
rough-size wood materials with a circ saw and finish-cut them on trio? The answer: Absolutely! With the right accessories, bits,
a tablesaw; or they rely on a bandsaw to cut out curved parts, blades, and a shop-made helper or two, improved-if not flaw-
fearing they'd hack up workpieces with a jigsaw; or they view a less-precision is well within your grasp. Here's how to turn these
cordless drill as merely a convenience-not nearly as precise as a "go-away" tools into "go-to" superstars.
stationary drill press.
Get clean, straight cuts with your circ saw

Crosscutting, ripping, and Carbide saw-blade savvy
making bevel cuts along a CD If you're cutting softwood, softwood plywood,
straight line sum up the and MDF, or ripcutting hardwood, a standard or thin-
circular saw's role. To ensure kerf 24-tooth, 7Y4" combination blade will deliver a
success, equip the tool with
respectable cut. It has an aggressive 20° tooth hook
a quality blade, matching it
with the material and type of and costs about $15. CD For a fine finishing blade to
cut (see right) and adjusting cut hardwood and hardwood veneer plywood, pay a . -----
the blade depth VB" below few bucks more for a 40-tooth, hard-body, thin-kerf blade. Costing around $30, its 12° tooth angle
the work. cuts less aggressively, leaving few splinters.CD A standard-kerf 40-tooth blade, with its 20° tooth
hook, delivers the cleanest cut, only at a slower rate. Price: $45.

Troubleshooting problems
Alignment woes. Do a two-step to tune up your saw for spot-on
accuracy. First, square the saw's baseplate to the blade. With the
tool upside down (and unplugged), loosen the blade-depth lock.
Lower the blade and lock it into place. Then retract the blade
guard. Fit a square snugly against the blade body and baseplate
sole [Photo A). Adjust and lock the baseplate to square.
Also, using an adjustable square, check if the baseplate edge
is parallel to the blade [Photo B). If you detect a difference from
the front to back, adjust the baseplate of your saw. If you can't,
add a shop-made zero-clearance subbase discussed under
Splintering and tear-out, below.
Finally, using a drafting triangle, check the calibrations on the
blade-angle scale at 30° and 45°. If your scale is off, incise these
intersections with a sharp blade or nail for speedy reference later.
Kickback and wavering cuts. It's scary when a circ saw jumps
back during a cut. You fear injury and chewing up the workpiece.
Many factors lead to kickback: a lack of stock support, which
causes the material surrounding the saw to bind the blade; a
forced feed rate; or a hung-up cord. As shown in Photo C, it pays to
equally support material on both sides of the cutline and=-If
needed-clamp down the workpiece to prevent it from moving
when sawing. Using sawhorses and .sacrificial 2x2s under the
workpiece provides a cheap solution. Also, don't force the saw;
you'll know when the motor slows. And drape the cord over your
shoulder so it doesn't catch and yank the saw off course.
To'correct wavering or binding freehand cuts, make a straight-
edge guide customized to your saw, like the one at right. Another
option: Buy a clamp-on tool guide with a circ-saw subbase, as
shown previous page, top left. Such systems prevent the tool from
straying from the cutline. (See other guides in WOOD® magazine
issue 165, page 72, or at woodmagazine.com/toolguides.)
Splintering and tear-out. Unlike a tablesaw blade, the teeth of

a circ-saw blade cut from the bottom up, so it's the top face of a
workpiece where splintering typically occurs. For this reason,
place the good face of your workpiece down. Tear-out occurs
when the blade exits the edge of the workpiece, creating large
splinters. Several strategies can eliminate these problems [Photo
D). Beyond adding a sharp hade, they include pressing masking
tape over the cutline; securing a scrap backer block where the saw
blade exits the work; and attaching a zero-clearance, lJJ"-thick
hardboard subbase to the saw's sole, ensuring that the subbase
edges parallel the blade.
When sizing the subbase, make it the same length as your tool's
sole, but make the width equal to the distance from the blade-side
edge of the sole to the outside edge of the motor (to keep the
motor from bumping clamps or hitting the straightedge during a
cut). Better still, make the width between the blade and subbase
edge a whole number, such as 6", and you'll save time setting up
for a cut by not having to deal with fractions. Once you've cut the
subbase, secure it with countersunk screws, washers, and nuts, or
cloth-backed double-faced tape. Another strategy: Score the cut-
line with a knife [Photo E).
woodmagazine.com 39
Make your jigsaw a curve-cutting specialist
When selecting blades, choose one 0000
based on the material you intend to
Guide rollers cut, its thickness, and the type of cut.
The teeth per inch (tpi) of a wood or
plywood jigsaw blade ranges from 6
tpi (coarse) to 20 tpi (fine), with 6 tpi
blades being fast and aggressive.
Ground, close-set teeth yield clean,
precision cuts, while narrow blades
excel at turning sharp corners. Rely
on plunge-tip and not tapered-tip
blades for-what else?-plunge cuts.
You can't make a good cut with a cheap Also, expect to find two styles of
jigsaw, regardless of blade style or quality. upper blade ends: T-shank and T-shank U-shank
A good tool features guide rollers behind U-shank. This describes the part that
the blade to provide support and keep it
from deflecting. Some jigsaws (see above) inserts Into the tool. Of these, the
also include precision control guides that T-shank blades hold more securely
contain the blade along both sides. A lock- in jigsaws that accept them.
on button, sawdust blower, variable speed,
and straight/orbital cutting options also Best blade choices
help deliver a quality cut when matched
with the workpiece thickness and material. CD 6 tpi for fast, coarse cuts; CD 10tpi for straight,fine cuts; 010 tpi reverse-
(The less orbital cutting action, the cleaner tooth for straight, splinter-free cuts on the surface where the blade exits the
the cut.) Still one more feature is an anti- workpiece; 8) progressive-tooth with graduating tpi for fast, clean cuts in thick
splinter insert in the baseplate, serving as a and thin material; 012 tpi for narrow, curved cuts in woods; 0
20 tpi for fine,
zero-clearance subbase. narrow curved cuts in woods and plastics.
__ . _- ••.• --. •.,...1
Blade deflection and saw marks. Deflection occurs when the blade
bends to the right or left of the cutline [Photo A), leaving an unsquare
edge and, in severe cases, ruining the workpiece. Saw marks leave rough
edges. Choosing the right tool and blade are part of the solution, as well
as using a straightedge to guide the saw along straight cuts. When cut-
ting curves, stay Y\6" outside the cutline. Clean up curved cuts with a
drill-press-mounted sanding drum (concave cuts), or with a disc sander
(convex cuts). Or, make a hardboard template of the cut edge and use it
along with a router and flush-trim bit to true the edge.
Splintering and tear-out. Cure these with the same techniques

described on the previous page used to reduce splintering and tear-out
with a circ saw. Score and/or tape cutlines, employ backing materials,
and use a zero-clearance subbase or anti-splinter insert.
Kickback. Culprits here: binding due to a lack of stock support, wrong

blade speed and feed rate, a bent blade, or a hung-up cord. Make practice
St"'jd•..'.. cuts in scrap to determine the ideal blade speed and feed rate; then use the
circ-saw tips on the previous page.
Rough field cuts. Simple solutions apply when you cut out an opening in
the middle of a workpiece. For fast plunge cuts, insert a plunge-tip blade into
the jigsaw, turn on the tool, and slowly tilt the tool's blade into the waste side
of the workpiece [Photo B). For more precision, drill blade-start holes at the
opening corners to accommodate the jigsaw blade. Next, clamp a straightedge
into place, insert the blade into a hole, and begin cutting [Photo C].

Bore splinter-free precision holes with your portable drill
For project building, a lightweight,
cordless 12- or 14A-volt variable-
,
speed drill with a keyless chuck
provides all the torque and freedom
you'll need. Having two is better,
allowing you to drill pilot holes with
one and drive screws with· the other
without the fuss of changing bits.
And while twist bits win the
popularity contest in most shops, you
can achieve splinter-free results,
greater accuracy, and more versatility
with the four precision choices shown
at right. Note, too, that to maximize
Four precision bits: CD Single-flute countersink (no. 145636, set of 4 for #4-#10
control, the larger the bit, the slower screws, $40, Woodcraft, 800-225-1153 or woodcraft.com); CD brad-point; 0 Forstner
for holes up to IVz"; and8) Vix for self-centered holes in hinge-mouting holes, (no. and
price vary, McFeely's, 800-443-7937, or mcfeelys.com).
Unintentionally angled holes. To err is human, and nothing proves
the point more than when trying to drill a hole at a right angle to a
workpiece with a handheld drill. You can, however, reach perfection
with a handheld drill using these two strategies. The simple shop-made
jig [PhotoA] offers a clear view of the hole location while guiding the
bit through the vertical hole in the jig's center. (You may need a drill
press to drill the 90° guide hole through the jig.) Or, buy an inexpen-
sive adjustable drill guide, page 36, top right (no. DG-3637, $55.25 at
Mcfeely's). Attached to the chuck, it lets you drill 90° or angled holes
and stopped holes, as well as centered holes in dowels and board edges
[PhotosBand C].Just be sure to have a firm grip on the guide's handle
before aligning the bit and drilling holes in the edge of a board.
Break out. There's not a single good thing you can say about splin-
ters. They're a thorn in a woodworker's ...let's not go there. Speaking
of backsides, backing a planned drill hole proves an effective deter-
rent here. To stop break out where the bit both enters and exits, make
a sandwich using scrap [Photo D].
Inconsistent hole depths. Many people use masking tape to achieve

repeatable-depth holes in wood. And although this puts you in the
ballpark, it doesn't knock it••out of the park if your goal is dead-on
accuracy. Unfortunately, masking tape slips. Your best bet: no-mar
stop collars [Photo E]. (Buy no. 908-298 for a set of 6, Ys"-Yz", $47.99
Woodworker's Supply, 800-645-9292, or woodworker.com.) These
secure to the bits using an Allen wrench. A polymer boot at the base
of the stainless-steel collar prevents burning or burnishing the wood.
Bit clogging. Drilling deep holes often causes sawdust to jam the
channels in brad-point or twist bits. Carefully dig the dust jam out
with a nail tip to avoid burning and polishing the hole sides, which
makes them less than ideal for gluing plugs or dowels .••
Written by Jim Harrold with Kevin Boyle and Jeff Mertz
woodmagazine.com 41
unvarnishedadvice
by Tom Iovino
Precisely how precise?

uring a visit to a woodworking head and said, "You just don't get it, do
D friend's home, my pal asked me

to check out his tablesaw. He was
having "issues" with the setup and
you?" It was then that I remembered
what he does for a living: My friend is
an engineer.
wanted a second opinion. Wood is pretty amazing stuff. It seems
There in his garage shop was a nice so substantial, yet it constantly moves in
contractor's saw, complete with a shiny response to changes in temperature and
top, perfectly lubricated handwheel humidity. Woodworkers for centuries
threads, and not a speck of dust on it. have understood this and adapted their
While I admired the gleaming saw, my methods of work to account for it.
friend passed me a board he had ripped I get a kick out of woodworkers who
on it. I sighted down the cut edge and routinely turn to machinist's tools to
noticed the smallest amount of rough- perfect the thickness of a tenon or the fit
ness on the cut. Trust me; you really had of a set of dovetails. If you cut the joint
to squint to see anything. on a rainy day and assemble it on a
Next, he removed sunny one, you'll wit-
the saw's throat plate "Itwas then that I ness the magic-and
and blade, and went remembered what he feel the frustration-of
to a special drawer our preferred medium
where he stored his does for a living: of work. Hey, we aren't
precision measuring machining parts for the
devices. Armed with friend is
My space shuttle.
his machinist's dial an engineer." And, getting back to
indicator, he mounted my buddy's beef: Trying
it to the saw top, and to get a perfect "glue-line
gingerly pushed the instrument to the rip" right off a tablesaw is an act of magic
arbor flange. "There," he said, his voice you don't need to attempt. Many experi-
heavy with disappointment, "The arbor's enced woodworkers will joint a board, rip
off by .002", and I'm having a bear of a it an extra 1/32" wide, then joint the ripped
time getting it perfect." edge to smooth it and bring the board
I looked at the board, noted the mea- down to finished size.
surement, and studied the board again, Remember, when wood is involved,
"Looks good to me," I said. "close enough" is usually close enough.
He sighed, reassembled the saw, made It's more fun to build projects than to
another test cut and held the result up worry about thousandths of an inch .•
close' to my face. "You see?!?" I looked
again, and if I squinted just right, turned Tom Iovino of Tampa, Fla., blogs prolifically at
tomsworkbench.com.
my head to the side, and positioned the
board in the proper raking light, I could
barely make out some roughness.
"I dunno ... still looks good to me."
He turned, shook his
42
manufacturer's initials (AO for American
Optical, X for UVEX, etc.) somewhere out
of the line of sight. Any manufactured
protective eyewear you consider-purchas-
~ ing should bear both inscriptions.
Healthy
What does the ANSI standard mean to
you? For one thing, the frames and lenses
work together for protection. Industrial
safety glasses have lenses that withstand
Woodworking nearly four times the impact of regular

impact-resistant lenses. Compliant frames
have inner retention lips that keep
unshattered lenses from being driven
into your eyes under the force of heavy
impact. They also meet the standards for
pressure and impact that regular frames
can't match. And for complete protection,
all industrial safety glasses should come
equipped with side shields.
You'll find, though, some contemporary
styles of one-piece, wraparound safety
glasses that might not carry the ANSI
Z87.1 imprint or the initials of the maker.
They may meet or exceed the standard,
but due to their one-piece construction,
they don't comply with ANSI's lens-and-
frame stipulations.
Your eyes determine

your eyewear options
Depending. on your eyesight, you have
several options in safety eyewear. If you
don't require corrective lenses (or wear
contact lenses), you may select prefabri-
Know what you need to protect your sight, hearing,
cated safety glasses with clear lenses in
and lungs. We'll help you choose the right gear, place; safety frames in which safety lenses
are inserted; or goggles. (There's also a
keeping you on the cutting edge of shop safety.
combination eyeglass/goggle available.) If
you have to wear corrective lenses while
S
hopsafety includes a whole lot more and educational institutions. ANSI wrote woodworking, you can don prefabricated
than leaving the guar in place on the standard for safety eyewear for the safety glasses or goggles over your normal
your tablesaw. There's your eyes, industrial workplace, but your workshop eyewear; use a flip-up face shield; or have
ears, and lungs to think about. To protect differs only in size. The possible hazards to prescription safety glasses made.
these, .select the right gear, then make a your eyes, such as flying chips of metal or
habit of using it. wood; dust; or contact with harmful liq-
uids; remain the same.
Flip-up
Don't let hindsight ANSI sets the standard
face shield
become blind sight for protection
All safety eyewear must be officially All quality protective eyewear, including
approved. That approval comes from the face shields, that complies with ANSI stan-
American National Standards Institute dard Z87.1 (of 2010) will have that letter
(ANSI), a voluntary organization that and numbers stamped or molded into the
looks after the development of standards frame or shield. Lenses (usually of hard
used in business, industry, government, polycarbonate) that comply will bear the
wocdmaqazlne.com 43
How much does ANSI-compliant eye- world of your shop, however, the actual
wear cost? Not much, considering what How to "Look" at Noise NRR proves to be somewhat less. That's
you're protecting. You can buy a pair of Intensity comparisons with NIOSH
why you should select hearing protection
recommended permissible
prefabricated Z87-level safety glasses for as exposure time. with an NRR of at least 25.
little as $5 or as much as $50 or more. Note: For every 3dB
(Lens quality gets better as the price goes the noise energy doubles. The best protection
up.) Goggles run from about $8 to $25; is what you'll wear
face shields, $24 to $60. The cost of pre- 85 dB - 8-hour exposure
According to a 1997 study by the National
scription safety glasses varies with the 88 dB - 4-hour exposure Institute of Occupational Safety and
fashion and quality of the frame, as it does 91 dB - 2-hour exposure Health (NIOSH), laboratory data show that
with regular corrective lenses. 94 dB -l-hour exposure earmuffs provide the highest real-world
With safety glasses, always check (or noise attenuation values, followed by foam
97 dB - 30-minute exposure
ask) for scratch-resistant lenses. And to earplugs. However, other data from OSHA
prevent them from fogging when you're 100 dB -15-minute exposure and industrial sources, such as 3M, find
wearing a dust mask, have them treated that properly fitted foam or flexible plastic
with an antifog coating. Many companies earplugs offer the greatest protection-
103 dB -7.5-minute exposure
offer permanent antifog coating on non- ranging from an NRR of about 29 to 33.
prescription safety glasses. More generally speaking, NIOSH states:
lithe best hearing protector is the one that
You say you've 106 dB - 3.75-minute exposure the worker will wear."
Basically, you'll find three types of hear-
lost your hearing? ing protectors. Foam earplugs that mold to
If there is one thing to remember from Note: The decibel scale by which sound fit your ear canal (below center) offer the
reading this, it's that hearing loss is cumu- is measured happens to be logarithmic, highest NRR and cost the least (about 35
lative and permanent. Hearing protection not linear. As demonstrated in the chart, cents a pair). Band plugs, similar to foam
can't restore what you've already lost, but above, that means that a 100 dB noise is 10 ones but made of flexible plastic and
it can halt further deterioration. times as loud as a 90 dB noise. And 90 dB joined with a head/neck band (below left),
If you value your hearing, you'll want to is 10 times as loud as 80 dB. come next, and cost a bit more. Earmuffs,
wear ear protection for any noise over 85 In industry, the federal Occupational usually with the lowest NRR (17-23), have
decibels (dB), and for very loud noise, such Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) prices around $14. Top-of-the-line models
as that made by a chainsaw, you'll need helps reduce noise at its source by doing can have an NRR as high as 31, but cost as
added protection, such as earplugs under site-specific studies and giving recom- much as $30 a pair.
earmuffs. (See the chart, next page, for tool . mendations to manufacturers for quieting
loudness ratings.) Permanent damage to operations. You can do a similar thing in What happens when
your hearing ability can result from expo- your home shop by purchasing. low-noise hearing protection fails
sure to over 100 dB for 2 hours power tools and equipment. WOOD® Researchers at 3M, which manufactures
or even less. magazine's tool comparison tests usually several styles of hearing protectors, have
provide noise ratings when applicable. studied why hearing protection frequently
Even with quieter tools, though, you'll fails in the industrial workplace. Some of
still need hearing protection when noise their findings:
exceeds dangerous exposure levels, such as • Improper sizing and insertion. The
when you're routing. So how much do you wearer tends to fit plugs too loosely, even
need? You first must understand how though they're available in various sizes. If
hearing protection is rated. fit too tightly, they are a discomfort and
Hearing protection manufacturers assign the wearer removes them. Also, a person
each of their products a laboratory-based can have different-size ear canals, so each
Noise Reduction Rating (NRR), and by law, must be sized separately.
it must be shown on the label of each • Incompatibility with other protective
hearing protector sold. equipment. Earmuffs often don't seal
Band plugs The NRR supposedly equals the properly over safety glasses. Long hair or
drop in decibels (attenuation) caps can also interfere.
provided by the device. For • Poor communication. Hearing protec-
Foam example, an NRR of 20 would tion tends to attenuate high pitches, typical
earplugs reduce a 100 dB noise to an of voices. Wearers loosen, alter, or remove
audible 80 dB. In the real protectors to hear others.

Woodworker's Noise Exposures
120 Legend
A. Orbital sander
115 B. Mortiser
110 C. Tablesaw
D. Planer
E. Belt sander
F. Router
G. Metal shear
H. Hand drill
I. Circular saw Dust mask with
J. Tile saw exhaust port
K. Mitersaw
L. Impact wrench
M. Chop saw
nuisance masks run about 50 cents each.
N. Chainsaw The next step up is the woven-cloth or poly-
O. Hammer drill
ester mask with two elastic bands and an
ABC D E F G H I J K L M N 0
exhaust port. Although they're still dispos-
Tools & Tasks
able, they're NIOSH approved and can cost
around $3 apiece. Costlier variations of
• Wear and tear. Seals wear down on How much is 5 milligrams? It's actually these are washable for years of wear.
muffs. Foam plugs become less flexible less than two ten-thousandths of an ounce. For prolonged exposure to fine dust,
and. unable to properly mold to the ear (A dime weighs eight-hundredths of an mist, or dangerous fumes you'll need an
canal. Premolded plugs shrink. Ear wax ounce!) So according to OSHA standards, a air-purifying respirator with changeable
and perspiration also build up on them. woodshop measuring 15x30' with a 10' filters that remove specific, unhealthy con-
Earplugs should be checked frequently ceiling would reach the exposure limit taminants from ambient air. These half
and pushed in. Even the act of chewing when there are two-hundredths of an masks, because they're made of rubber or
gum can shift them out of position. ounce of wood dust in the air. Granted, silicone, are flexible to fit your facial con-
Finally, here's a test to see if earplugs fit that's not much dust. But OSHA cares about tours. Several straps ensure a tight fit. This
properly: After inserting the plugs, cup your it because exposure to wood dust has been type of protection can run you $25 or more.
hands over your ears, then take them away. associated with a variety of adverse health And you'll have a choice of filters, depend-
If you hear a difference, they're not being effects that include dermatitis, nonaller- ing on the kind of protection needed.
worn correctly. Remove them, refit, then try genic and mucosal respiratory effects, High-efficiency particulate air (HEPA)
again. And don't forget to wash them in allergic respiratory ailments, as well as filters are 99.97% efficient in removing
mild soap and water after a few wearings. cancer. You and your home shop don't fall particles of 0.3 micrometer in diameter. A
under OSHA's scrutiny, but for your own set of them may cost as much as the respi-
Dust can take well-being, you'll want to do all that you
can to cut down your exposure to dust.
rator itself. NIOSH (standard 42 CFR84)
designates them as follows:
your breath away • NlOO, not resistant to oil particulates;
Exposure to wood dust in excess of 5 mil- What to do when • RlOO,resistant to oil particulates;
ligrams per cubic meter of air is hazardous you can't collect all of it • PlOO, oilproof.
to your health, says OSHA. It's even more The highest degree of dust control requires Here's a tip concerning air-purifying
so from Western red cedar. Because that a three-prong approach. Installation of a respirators: Never simply store one on a
very common wood has been linked to collection system that captures dust at the shelf. Keep it in a sealed plastic bag; other-
respiratory problems, OSHA limits its dust source is the primary consideration. The wise it will filter the ambient air and clog
to 2.5 milligrams per cubic meter. second prong is .an air-filtration system the filters while it just sits there.
that pulls out airborne particles. And the To test the respirator, put it on and
third is the use of personal dust protection. cover the air outlet with one hand. Then
Of course, most woodworkers typically blow gently. Anywhere your other hand
start with the latter, then add the rest as can feel air escaping around the mask is
their shop activity and hobby grow. So where it will leak when you inhale, so
we'll look at dust masks as yourfirst line of readjust for fit. 4'
lung protection.
Dust masks fall into two main categories: Note: All equipment shown in this article was
nuisance-protection masks and respirators. provided by Woodcraft. For more information
For occasional light sanding that won't about these products, visit woodcraft. com.
generate heavy dust, you can opt for the
common paper throwaways with the single Written by Peter J. Stepha no
elastic band and the metal nose clip. These Photographs: Baldwin Photography
45
woodmagazine.com
Shop Safety Checklist
You can never take safety for granted. Here are a dozen things to ponder
before you begin any woodworking project.
1 DOyou know exactly what you're

going to do, and feel like doing it?
Think through the operation and the moves
8 DO you have your power tools
properly grounded? Tools that aren't
double-insulated come with three-wire
you must make before you make them. And grounding systems that must be plugged
don't do anything with power tools if you're into three-hole, grounded receptacles. Never
tired, angry, anxious, or in a hurry. remove the grounding prong from the plug.
2 IS your work area clean? Keep your

. shop area uncluttered, swept, and well
g Do you know what safety equip-
ment you need for the job? Around
lighted. The workspace around equipment cutting tools, always wear safety glasses, gog-
must be adequate to safely perform the job gles, or a face shield. When sanding, add a
you're going to do. .dust. Wear hearing protection when working
with loud or high-pitched tools.
3 What are you wearing? Don't wear

. loose clothing, work gloves, neckties,
rings, bracelets, or wristwatches. They can
10 Where are the chuck keys and
wrenches? Check that all chuck
keys, adjusting wrenches, and other small
. become entangled with moving parts. Tie tools have been removed from the machine
back long hair or wear a cap. so they won't interfere with the operation.
4 DO you have the right blade or cut-

ter for the job? Be sure that any blade
or cutter you're going to use is clean, sharp
11 Have you checked your stock?
Inspect the wood you're going to use
. for nails, loose knots, and other materials.
and undamaged so it will cut freely without They can be hidden "bombs" that may
being forced. injure you or damage your equipment.
5 Are all power-tool guards in place?

Guards and anti-kickback devices also
must work. Check to see that they're in good
12 where's your pushstick? Keep a
push stick or pushblock within reach
before beginning any cut or machining
condition and installed correctly before operation. And avoid getting into awkward
operating equipment. stances where a sudden slip could cause a
hand to move into the blade or cutter. •
6 Where are the start/stop switches?

Ensure that all the power equipment
you'll use has working start/stop buttons or
MINIMUM EXTENSION-CORD WIRE-GAUGE SIZE
Small wire gauges and long cords create resistance, which can starve an electric
switches within your easy reach. motor and cause the motor and the cord to overheat. Use the shortest cord
possible and make sure the wire gauge is heavy enough for the tool's amperage.
Cord Length
Nameplate Amps 25' 50' 100' 150'
7 Arethe power cords in good shape?

Don't use tools with signs of power-cord
damage; replace them. Only work with an
0-6
6-10
18
18
16
16
16
14
14
12
10-12 16 16 14 12
extension cord that's the proper size for the
job (see chart, right), and route it so it won't 12-16 14 12 (not recommended)
wind up underfoot.

How to Master Dadoes,
Grooves, and Rabbets
Eliminate sloppy fits, uneven edges, and splintered wood from these common cuts.
All you need are tools already in your shop, and these shop-proven tips.
D
adoes, grooves, and rabbets form whether the resulting joint will be seen in can cover up some joints with face frames,
the backbone of so many wood- your final project. (For a comparison of or make a merely good dado better with
working projects, from a simple the pros and cons of these tools, see the special cleanup tools. (See Dado-cleanout
picture frame to the classic bookcase on chart on page 48.) Keep in mind that you bits remove tablesaw blemishes, page 51.)
page 82. Fundamentally and structurally DADOES, GROOVES, AND RABBETS: WHAT'S THE DIFFERENCE?
sound, they're reliable standards in case
construction and any project that features
shelves, drawers, or dividers. We'll walk
you step-by-step through the techniques
so you can produce flawless, tight-fitting
joints on your projects.
Select your tools of choice

Shoulders
The tools and methods you choose to cut
Although similar in structure, these cuts differ due to their placement within a board. Rabbets form an
dadoes, grooves, and rabbets will vary
L-shaped recess along an edge or end. Dadoes have two shoulders and run across the grain. Grooves also
based on which tools you own and have two shoulders, but run with the grain.
woodmagazine.com 47
BASIC JOINERY
Comparing five ways to cut dadoes, grooves, and rabbets
Tool Performance results Cost Other uses
Stacked Pros: Cleanest cut of saw blades; can be Cons: Leaves triangular grooves in bottom $80-$250 Cutting tenons, box joints,
dado set shimmed to exacting widths corners; needs backer board to avoid tear-out half-laps, shiplaps, and
across grain tongue-and-groove joints
Adjustable Pros: Quick and easy to adjust width; Cons: Uneven bottoms; needs backer board to $50-$80 Cutting tenons, half-laps,
dado blade inexpensive prevent tear-out across grain and shiplaps, but quality
of cut suffers
40- or 50-tooth Pros: No need to purchase or install Cons: Repeated passes could create inaccurate $10-$80 Ripping and crosscutting
combination blade dado set; creates clean rabbets when widths; saw marks need to be cleaned up; time- in regular use of tablesaw
machining in perpendicular cuts consuming; needs backer board to prevent tear-
out across grain
Straight Pros: Clean cuts with square shoulders; Cons: Deep cuts require time-consuming multiple $5-$20 for a single Mortising, plunge cuts,
router bit accurate when bit size matches size of passes; needs backer board to avoid tear-out bit; $ 0-$100 for template routing, and
channel needed across grain a set of 6-9 bits of flattening rough stock
various widths
Rabbeting Pros: Machines clean rabbets, in router Cons: Deep cuts require time-consuming multiple $10-$40 for single No other uses
router bit table or hand-held router; quicker setup passes; needs backer board to avoid tear-out bit; $20-$60 for recommended
than straight router bit across grain; lifts veneer on sheet goods multi-bearing sets
Tablesaw delivers quick, accurate channels

In the WOOD® magazine shop, we turn auxiliary fence (5-8", depending on work- To avoid possible kickback, be certain the
first to the tablesaw for cutting dadoes, piece height), adjust the blade height and cut waste side is not trapped between the fence
grooves, and rabbets. Typically, it takes less the bottom perpendicular to the shoulder. and the blade.
time to install and adjust a dado set than it
does to prep a router. And, we prefer the Tips for top-notch table saw results
tablesaw's ability to quickly cut channels • Tip 1: Adjust your saw for clean, accurate cuts.
and handle most sizes of boards or panels. To ensure accuracy and squareness before lel to the blade, and the miter gauge must
You have two options in dado sets: making any cuts, first make sure you have be set perpendicular to the blade. Even the
stacked or adjustable. The stacked sets- your tablesaw set up correctly. The miter slightest deviation will affect the fit and
which we prefer-reliably deliver square, slots and rip fence must be perfectly paral- finish of the joint.
clean cuts. Of course, higher-priced sets
typically produce the cleanest cuts, with • Tip 2: Choose a good dado set for best results.
Outside blade
flat bottoms and square, no-tear-out shoul- Stacked dado sets contain two outside o~~s~~e
ders. Most stacked dado sets, however, leave blades, several chippers, and metal or plas- Chipper
tiny, triangular "earmarks" in the bottom tic shims. (Ifyour set doesn't include shims,
corners caused by the beveled teeth of the make your own from thin paper or card
outer blades. stock.) To match the channel width, add
Adjustable dado· blades (sometimes the requisite number of chippers between
called "wobble" blades) offer low prices the outer blades (see illustration, right) on
and quick setups, but come with serious the arbor. If the arbor washer won't fit-
drawbacks. They create concave or ridged leave it off. It's more important to get the
bottoms and unsquare corners that need arbor nut tightened to full threads.
considerable cleanup.
You also can make all three cuts with a Freud bridges gap between stacked sets and wobblers
good quality 40- or 50-tooth combination Freud's Dial-A-Width dado set (model SD608; freudtools.com)
blade. For dadoes and grooves, cut both combines the shimless conveniences of a "wobbler" with the
shoulders first, and then nibble away the clean cut of a stacked set. You stack chippers between the
remaining waste with successive passes. outer blades, just as on a regular stacked set. To fine-adjust
the width, simply loosen the arbor nut and turn the hub on
Clean up the rough bottom with a sharp
the outer blade, as shown at right. Each "click" on the hub
chisel or dado clean-out bit. changes the width by .004", much like inserting an actual
You can cut rabbets the same way, but we shim. One caution, though: At its maximum width of lV16",
prefer the following two-cut method. First, your saw's arbor nut can only tighten to about half threads.
make: the shoulder cut; then, using a tall

Tip 3: Test and adjust your dado set • Tip 7: Defeat end-grain tear-out with backer boards.
for dead-on cuts. Machining cross-grain joints
For dadoes and grooves, cut a test scrap on a tablesaw results in tear-out
:;rieceto check for fit. Adjust the fit by add- when the blade exits the wood,
ing or removing shims and chippers. We as shown at right, unless you
like to cut dadoes and grooves slightly take some precautions. Install a
undersize (within a few hundredths of an wood extension to the miter
inch), then sand the inserted workpiece gauge to back up the cut, as
until it fits snugly. Be sure to sand the shown in the photo for Tip 8, or
We cut these '/.on dadoes in red oak with a scrap board to back up
entire workpiece to the same grit, or your hold a backup piece between the cut (left) and then without (right). The backer board eliminates
finish will reveal where you stopped sand- the workpiece and miter gauge. tear-out.
ing. Be careful not to sand through the
veneer face on plywood. • Tip 8: Use the rip fence as a stop.
For dadoes and end-grain rabbets, use the
• Tip 4: Use a zero-clearance insert for rip fence and miter gauge in conjunction
tear-out-free cuts. with each other, as shown at right. Because
To make a zero-clearance insert plate for you're not cutting entirely through the
your saw's blade throat, adjust the dado set board, it will not pinch and kick back. Add
to exact width and lower it below the an auxiliary fence for rabbets to keep the
table. Install a planed and shaped wood blades from touching the rip fence.
insert flush with the table surface. (See For a quick auxiliary fence, clamp a
woodmagazine.com!zeroclearance to make board to the rip fence. Set up the dado
insert blanks.) Clamp a board to the saw stack wider than your intended rabbet.
table across the insert's length-to one Cut an opening for the blade in the auxil-
side of the blade-to hold it in place. Turn iary fence (see illustrations, below). Adjust
on your saw and slowly raise the blade, the fence to the desired width of the rab-
When cutting across grain, use the rip fence as a
cutting through the insert, until it reaches bet, allowing for the auxiliary face, and stopblock and a wood extension to reduce tear-out.
the approximate height to match the cut the workpiece. Sandpaper grips the workpiece.
depth of your joint. Turn off the saw and
check the blade height.
STEP 1 STEP 3
Securely clamp auxiliary Slowly raise blade
• Tip 5: Resharpen your entire fence to tablesaw to cut opening in
rip fence. auxiliary fence.
stacked dado set.
The carbide teeth of stacked dado sets dull
over time and need resharpening. When STEP 2
Slide auxiliary
having a set sharpened, always include fence halfway
each blade and chipper-even those over lowered
blade.
you've never used-so the teeth remain
identical in height. .If the teeth don't
match exactly, some chippers will cut
deeper than the rest. ••
• Tip 6: Prevent veneer chip-out with

painter's tape
When making cuts in veneered sheet
goods, chip-out always looms as a possibil-
ity. To keep a veneer face from chipping,
apply painter's tape over the cutline-and
at the opposite end to maintain a level
surface when machining. Make a shallow
scoring pass first; then, with the tape still
on, raise the blade and finish with a cut to
final depth, as shown at right. Slow your
feed rate accordingly when removing a Scoring ';'''' deep cleanly shears the veneer, above left. After cutting the channel to depth, peel away the
large amount of material. tape gently to avoid lifting the wood fibers and reveal a flawless veneer face, above right.
woodmagazine.com 49
BASIC JOINERY
Router offers versatility, cleaner channels

For joints that will be seen on the finished rabbeting bits individually or in a set Rabbeting bits also work great in router
project, you can't beat a router, because it with multiple bearing sizes (see photo, tables, which offer a distinct advantage
cuts square, clean, flat-bottomed dadoes, below left) to achieve different widths. over rabbets cut with handheld routers:
grooves, and rabbets. Whether you use When routing a rabbet by hand, move You don't need to change bearings to vary
your router by hand or in a router table, the router counterclockwise around the the cut width. You can adjust the table's
you'll get great results either way. And outside edges of a workpiece. Keep one fence so it aligns with the bearing's front
routers excel at machining stopped chan- handle over the workpiece to maintain a edge for full-width cuts, or bring the fence
nels (those that do not exit the workpiece level cut. To avoid tear-out when forward for a shallower cut, When you
on one or both ends of the channel). With approaching a corner on end grain, use a allow the bearing alone to guide the cut, a
a router, you can see the start and stop backer board or stop an inch short and rabbeting bit follows the exact contour of
marks as well as the bit. On a tablesaw, rout carefully from the corner backwards the workpiece edge-even imperfec-
however, the blade is hidden beneath the (known as climb-cutting). tions-and duplicates that on the joint.
board, making it more challenging to start When routing in sheet goods, rabbeting If you don't have a rabbeting bit set,
and stop precisely at a mark. bits fray end-grain veneer rather than straight bits and spiral bits also machine
shear it cleanly, as shown, below. To handle great rabbets. Use them with the fence on a
Rout great rabbets by this, first rout the rabbet to correct width router table, or with an edge guide with a
hand or in a router table and depth. Then, using a square-edged handheld router. Avoid dull bits that burn
You can use rabbeting, straight, or spiral sanding block, sand with the grain toward the wood or cause it to "fuzz" instead of
bits to machine perfect rabbets. Purchase the rabbet to knock down the frayed grain. cutting cleanly.
CUTVARIED SIZES WITH A SET
This set cuts rabbets to different widths with one Rabbeting bits lift veneer when cutting rather than shear it cleanly (left), so we rely on a sanding block to
bit. Smaller bearings produce wide rabbets, and remove the stringy fibers (right). If any fibers bend into the rabbet, simply use your sanding block to sand
larger bearings, narrower ones. the vertical face of the cut. Take care to not round the edge.
Sheet-goods sizes don't always add up to the label

Sheet goods, such as plywood or medium-density fiberboard
(MDF), almost always come up short of their stated
thicknesses. For example, a sheet of W' plywood typically
measures only 2Y32" thick (right). So what does this mean?
Well, if you plan to cut dadoes, grooves, or rabbets in sheet
goods, you'd better measure everything first. Thicknesses can
vary even in sheets from the same stack. Always make a test
cut and check the fit. Use specially-size plywood router bits %" router bit %" plywood
that come in cutting diameters such as '%4", 0/32", '1'32", '132",
2Y32", and 21'32". your shims (such as A, B, C, etc.) with a permanent marker or
Or, to get dead-on results, use straight or spiral bits etch them with an engraver. Now set up your saw with the
narrower than the thickness of the plywood and make two appropriate blades, chippers, and shims to get a precise cut.
cutting passes with shop-made or manufactured jigs. Make When you remove the stack, make a note indicating which
your own with a free jig plan at woodmagazine.com/dadojigs. chippers and shims you used. The next time you need to cut
If you're like us, however, and prefer to use your tablesaw a joint for that size sheet, just put together the same
with a stacked dado set, here's a helpful trick. First, label all combination. But don't trust it completely. Test your cut first.

Dado-clean-out bits remove tablesaw blemishes
Dado-clean-out bits do just what they say: channels. Chuck the dado-clean-out bit cutters (1'8-112" tall). This puts the bearing
They shave imperfections from the bottom into your handheld router, and set it to above the shoulders of a Va"-deep
of a flawed cut to leave a perfectly flat, machine to the finished depth. Run the channel, requiring a guide board or
square joint, as shown below. router bit through the channel, with the straightedge. Wood line's clean-out bit
Here's how to use them: First, machine bearing riding against one shoulder and (800-472-6950; woodline.com) has just a
your cut to width on the tablesaw, but then the other, as shown below. Va"cutter height, and MLCS bits (800-
leave the blade height about 1;16"short of Don't confuse these bits with similar- 533-9298; mlcswoodworking.com)
the final depth. Machine all your looking mortising bits, which have taller feature V,6"-tallcutters, as shown below.
The outside blades of stacked dado sets leave Dado-clean-out bits pare away the final Y,6n These dado-clean-out bits excelled in our shop
tiny ear marks in the corners (top). Aclean-out bit of channel depth to bring the joint to its final, because they cut well, and their cutter and bearing
removes those blemishes (bottom). flawless state. fit into a 'Ian-deep groove.
Take advantage of a router table's benefits when routing dadoes, grooves, and rabbets
For router-made channels, we'll choose creating an uneven cut. After you've spiral bit unless your cut has an open side
the router table over a handheld router in routed the full channel, blow the dust and or bottom; then use a down-cut spiral bit.
most instances because of the additional chips off the table and workpiece, and I
safety and control offered by the table's make one more pass-without making
accessories, such as a fence, featherboards, any changes-to ensure a clean joint.
miter gauge, and dust collection. Down-cut spiral bits, like the one at
For best results, know the limitations of right, can lift the workpiece when routing
your router and bit. Routing W' grooves %" grooves and dadoes on a table. It's best to
deep in red oak puts a lot of strain on your use these solid-carbide bits when making
router and speeds dulling of the bit. So through-cuts, where the debris falls
make the cut in two passes, cutting away through the opening created. Up-cut spi-
half the depth on the first pass. ral bits, conversely, pull debris out of the Down-cut spiral bits cut great but pack the waste
Sometimes, chips build up in the joint groove, but also can lift the veneer slightly into the groove rather than eject it. Remove the
or get under a board and lift it slightly, on plywood. Our advice: Use an up-cut debris and make another pass.
Rely on straightedge guides when routing dadoes and grooves by hand

Channels located too far from the work- Pattern bits-option 2-eliminate set- at your cutline, below right, and the bear-
piece edge for your router-tame fence call ting the straightedge-to-cutter distance. ing keeps the cut aligned .••
for handheld routing. You've got two They have a bearing on the shaft above
good options: Run the router base along a the cutterhead that rides against the Produced by Bob Hunter with Chuck Hedlund
straightedge or use a bearing-guided pat-. straightedge, so you clamp the guide right Illustrations by Roxanne LeMoine and Tim Cahill
tern bit and straightedge.
For option I, chuck a straight or up-cut
spiral bit into the router and set the bit's
depth. Measure the distance from the
router-base edge to the nearest point of
the cutter. Clamp your straightedge that
exact distance from the marked channel,
set the router against it and realign it as
needed. Run your router against the _ .;c.;"",,,;,,,' .•'-""
For a straight and consistent channel, maintain the Because the cutter aligns with the bearing, you
straightedge to machine the channel, as
same point of contact between your router base clamp the guide right on the line of the joint,
shown at near right. and straightedge. . eliminating offset measurements.
woodmagazine.com 51
BASIC JOINERY
Half-lap Joints
Plenty strong and easy to make
S
ure, you can find woodworking joints more beautiful
than the half-lap. And, one or two joints might be
stronger. But few woodworking joints match the
•.s before we
half-lap for all-around usefulness and ease of construction .
Just a few wor

make this joint
As you can see by the photo at left, a half-lap joint consists of
two workpieces reduced to half their thickness where they
lap over each other. This provides a face-grain-to-face-grain
joint with plenty of gluing surface. Simple butt joints, on the
other hand, rely on an end-grain-to-edge-grain bond that
can break easily. Even a dowel-reinforced butt joint won't
prove as strong as a half-lap.
Half-lap joints do reveal end grain on both sides of the
joint, so avoid using the joint where such an appearance
proves objectionable. We often use half-laps for shop-cabinet
door frames, workbench leg frames, outdoor furniture, and
internal web frames for furniture such as dressers.
You need only a tablesaw to make a half-lap. We prefer to
use a dado set for fast and smooth results.
If you don't own a dado set that will cleanly shear across
the grain and leave the sawn surface smooth and flat, we
suggest you use a router table outfitted with a straight bit.
Here, we show how to make corner and T-joints with a
tablesaw, but you easily can adapt these techniques to your
router table.
Four easy steps to lap-joint success

your rip fence so one edge of your workpiece
butts against the fence and the opposite
edge aligns with the side of the dado set
farthest from the fence (as shown at left).
If all of your workpieces are the same
width, you can leave your fence at this
position for all the following cuts. If
you're working with pieces of different
widths, keep in mind that you use a
workpiece's adjoining piece to set the
fence for its half-lap cut. For example,
1 Installyour complete dado set so you

get the widest cut possible with it (typi-
cally 1¥J.6"). Raise the blade above the table
with a door frame use the horizontal
workpieces (the rails) to set the fence for
the cuts in the vertical workpieces (the
2 Set the .cutting depth of the dado set
so it removes precisely one half of the
workpiece thickness. Test your cutting
(exact height isn't important yet). Adjust stiles), and vice versa. depth with two pieces of scrap stock of the

same thickness as your workpieces. After
cutting the scrap pieces, lay them on a flat
What you need to
surface and align them, as shown on the know to make a
previous page. The top and bottom faces
should be flush.
half-lap T-joint
Sometimes, you may have to place a half-
lap joint somewhere other than at the end
of a workpiece. In that case, follow these
two easy steps.
handscrew clamps, simply clamp two
3 Markthe face sides of your workpieces

so you don't get them confused. Keep
in mind during this step that you need to
blocks of wood with C- or bar clamps.)
When positioned correctly, the stops
will limit the area of removed stock to the
place the face side of one piece up, and the
face side of the adjoining piece down. Set
your miter gauge for a square cut, and
1 First, mark the position of the overlap
on the edge of the workpiece that will
be cut in its midsection. For accuracy use a
space between the pencil marks. You sim-
ply butt one end of the stock against one
stop and make a cut as shown below. Then,
attach a wooden extension to it. sharp pencil. butt the other end of the stock against the
Now, position the workpiece with one
edge against the auxiliary fence and the
end butted against the rip fence. Turn on
2 Set the unmarked edge against the
miter-gauge auxiliary fence. Align your
pencil marks with the sides of the dado set,
remaining stop, and make another cut.
Finally, remove the material between the
two cuts. With the stops set up this way,
the saw, hold the workpiece firmly against and position two handscrew clamps as stops you can make multiple pieces that will all
the auxiliary fence, and pass the workpiece on the auxiliary fence. (If you don't have turn out the same .••
over the dado set. Make successive passes to
complete the half-lap cut.
4 TO clamp the joint, first apply wood

glue to all mating surfaces. Draw the
workpieces together with bar or pipe
clamps and check the assembly for square.
Then, bring the glued half-lap faces tightly
together with a small clamp. Placing a
scrap of wood on the joint faces can pro-
tect them from the clamp jaws.
woodmagazine.com 53
When using a jig
like this one, take a
minute to mount it
on a plywood panel.
Then, you can easily
clamp the unit to your
workbench.
Save Time with DUSING THE JIG

Set depth-stop collar to control
depth of counterbore.
Pocket Holes Pocket-hole

jig
You won't find a faster way to build basic cabinets,

and they're handy for assembling tricky joints, too.
Pocket-hole joints at a glance

W
ith all of the great woodwork- Of course, you could try to drill the
ing joints at our disposal, most pocket holes freehand, but a commercial A pocket hole enters wood at an angle of
of which don't require hard- jig helps you do it far more accurately about 150 to the workpiece surface, allow-
ware of any kind, a woodworker has to and efficiently. Let us show you -the ing you to drill toward the end or edge of a
wonder: Why use a pocket-hole joint? The basics, using a Kreg K2000 jig, pictured project part, as shown in the photo above.
answer_ is simple: Pocket holes offer the above, as our primary demonstration A specially designed drill bit equipped
quickest way imaginable to build a face tool. (Kreg's entry-level Mini jig is repre- with a stop collar [Drawing 1] creates a
frame, assemble a cabinet, or join parts sented in Drawing 1.) To learn more hole large enough to accept the head of
that would be difficult to clamp. And they about pocket-hole jigs and techniques, the screw, while also drilling a small hole
provide plenty of holding power, too. see More Resources. for the screw's shank.

- A clamp, such as this specialized version, keeps the Youcan drill into panels of any size;just provide Pocket holes make cabinet construction quick and
joint members flush while you drive the pocket- level support. Ifyour jig doesn't include a wide easy. Usethem not only to join the sides, back, and
hole screws. Use 1\4"pocket-hole screws for %" base, cut scraps of wood to suit. Drillon the bottom, but also to attach a cabinet's face frame,
stock. A 2x4 platform holds the assembly off the inside face of each panel ifthe outside will be as shown here. Clamps help you keep large pieces
bench to make clamping the joint easier. visible, or on the outside face if it will be hidden. aligned as you drive the screws.
Use screws with coarse

threads to join softwood,
medium-density fiberboard
(MDF), or plywood and fine
threads for hardwoods (at
left). Pocket-hole screws
have self-tapping auger
points. These points,
combined with
Coarse
threads
the unta-
pered profile
of the screws,
allow you to drive the screws into the
adjoining parts without pilot holes. Even
ml__ --L...........•...
Rather than struggling to clamp these mitered Ifyou choose to use plugs, brush glue on each one,
dense woods, such as oak, should not split. joints tightly together during glue-up, we used and tap it in place with a wood block and hammer.
The screws also feature round washer pocket-hole screws to draw them snug. Drill You'llhave to plane or sand the plugs flush, which
heads (so named because they have extra holes from opposite sides of each joint for extra eliminates some of the timesaving advantage of
strength, slightly offsetting the holes. pocket-hole joinery.
bearing surface built into the bottom of
the heads). This design prevents the heads
from being pulled into the wood and Let's put it to use able on highly visible _project surfaces,
guarantees a tight connection. Face frames come together quickly with though. In such cases, another joint type,
Drill at least two holes to resist twisting. pocket-hole joinery, as shown in Photo A. say biscuits, might give better results .•
Add glue to the mating surfaces if you As you can see, we built a support platform
don't intend to disassemble the parts later. out of 2x4s to make the process go even
Use clamps to ensure flush surfaces [Draw- more smoothly. Produced by Jim Pollock
ing 2]. Now, insert the screws, and drive Pocket holes save a lot of time when you ___ 2 ~"' ~ ~ •• _
them to their full depth, drawing the two build basic cabinets, as shown in Photos B
parts snugly together. • and C. Pocket-hole joinery also stands out
More Resources
as a way to assemble angled, hard-to- ~ Drill pocket holes without a jig using
DDRIVING THE SCREW clamp joints, like the ones found in a this technique: woodmagazine.coml
nojigpockets
multiple-sided frame [Photo DJ.
Square-drive bit chucked into drill ~ More tips for how to use pocket-hole
Pocket-hole joinery creates long,
joinery: woodmagazine.coml
unsightly surface holes at each joint. pocketpointers
That's not it problem for concealed sur: ~ Read more about pocket-hole jigs
faces. For sometimes-seen ,surfaces, you in WOOD issue 221 (October 2013).
might decide to fill the holes with com- You may purchase a copy here:
woodmagazine.com/221
mercially available plugs, as shown in
Photo E (or make your own plugs from
dowels). The result might not be accept-
, woodmagazine.com 55
Master this basic
technique before you
move on to the fancy
stuff. You'll start with
a few boards, and end
up with a panel that's
worthy of a tabletop.
N
otall boards are created equal.
Some boards follow the rules and
stay straight and flat. Others may
rebel by warping and twisting. If you take
time to find the cooperative ones when
you set out to make a panel, the task will
be much easier.
Here's what you need to consider when
you visit the lumber rack at the home cen-
ter or wood supplier: straightness, color,
and grain figure. Sight down the edge of a
board and you'll quickly spot any bowing.
Look down the face to check for twist.
Once you've found some boards that
you might like to take home, stand them
up side by side to make sure they get along
with each other visually. We used red oak
for this project, and found significant.
color variations. Some boards had a pink
tinge. Others looked brown, and a couple.
were almost white. Stick with boards of
the same color.
Grain matching isn't as straightforward
as color matching, but think ahead. Can
you see similar patterns on all the boards?
If so, you'll have an easy time making
joints that seem to disappear instead of
ones that stand out.
Cut them down to size

If you buy lumber that has been stored
inside a store, you can start to work it as
soon as you get it into your shop. Lumber
that's been stored outdoors or in an
unheated, uncooled warehouse will need a
few days to adjust to your shop's humidity.
Before making any cuts, double-check
your tablesaw and jointer to make sure
they're set at exactly 90°.
You might have been told that boards
with slightly rough surfaces create better
glue joints. Not so. Smoother is better, but

if you use a high-quality ripping blade on plus a few extra inches. That allows for cup. Even if you rip a board in half and
your saw, you can produce edges suitable planer snipe and also comes in handy when wind up gluing those two halves right
for gluing even without a jointer. you're searching for the best grain match. back together again, you have relieved
You'll probably buy stock surfaced on Now take those wide boards and rip tension within the stock. That will help
both sides and one or both edges. If it has them into pieces no wider than 4".It seems keep your panel flat.
one rough edge, rip that away on the table- like a shame, but doing this virtually elim-
saw. Then crosscut the boards to length inates a wider board's natural tendency to Get ready to glue
Here's your chance to imitate nature. Lay
the boards on your workbench, as in the
Reading the grain photo below left. Look for an arrangement
It's not a jigsaw puzzle, it's a lumber puzzle. Here's an example of nice matching in which the grain on each piece seems to
grain, and an example of a match that would annoy you for years to come. flow visually into the adjacent piece. (See
GO WITH THIS ONE LET THIS ONE GO Reading the grain at left.)
Again, consider color. For example,
you'll get a better-looking result by placing
a couple of light boards at the sides of the
panel, rather than alternating them with
darker pieces.
Some woodworkers swear by flipping
every other board to alternate the growth
These boards feature grain lines of similar Different grain directions and shapes doom rings that you see on the end grain. How-
direction and width, so they blend well. these boards to ajarring visual effect. ever, you can ignore that factor once the
boards are ripped to 4" wide. After you've-
decided how' the boards will go together,
mark them in alphabetical order with
chalk, as in the photo at the top of the
next page. The chalk rubs off easily after
glue-up.
Check the fit one last time. If any gaps
show, go back to the tablesaw or to the
jointer, or get out a long, sharp jointer
plane. Make the edges as straight as you
can along the length of the board and
keep them square with the face, too.
When the boards fit tightly, place waxed
paper on your workbench to catch any
stray glue drips. Set bar clamps or pipe
clamps on the paper, spaced about 12"
apart. It wouldn't hurt to put waxed paper
directly on the clamps, too. The waxed
paper will keep the clamps clean and
won't stick to your glued-up boards.
We used four parallel-jaw clamps under-
neath our 36x24" assembly. The jaws stay
parallel to the workpiece and keep the
assembly flat. Other kinds of clamps might
need alignment help from two more
clamps placed on the top side to keep the
assembly from racking.
Our finished panel ended up six boards
wide. But we glued up just half of the
panel-three boards-at a time. Other-
wise, it takes some scrambling to 'keep all
After cutting your stock to size, lay the boards on your workbench and begin looking for the perfect of the joints in perfect alignment. This
match.as WOOD" magazine's contributing craftsman Jim Heavey does here. method also allows you to run each three-
wood magazine. com 57

--- ~ --- ~--
BASIC JOINERY
When you've figured out the best grain and color arrangement, mark the Here's another marking method: Jim pencils in X's and O's "because I love my
boards with chalk. work." Write them on masking tape and you won't have to sand them off.
board assembly through a benchtop planer

after the glue dries.
Lay the three sequentially marked
boards on the clamps between the jaws
and reach for the glue bottle. We recom-
mend yellow woodworker's glue, though
realize that it does set up fast, so be pre-
pared to work quickly.
You don't need special tools to spread
the glue. Simply lay down a bead from
your glue bottle, then spread it into an
even coat with a finger, as shown in the
photo at right-you'll develop a feel for the
right amount. And you only need to apply
glue to one of two mating edges. If you
spread glue on both boards, you're certain
to overdo it.
Rub the glue joints together and line up
the boards for the grain effect you planned.
Don't worry about getting the ends exactly
even; that's one reason you cut them a lit-
tle longer than necessary. Snug up all of
your clamps, but don't apply much pres-
sure yet.
Starting at one end, make sure the joints
are flush on top, and tighten the first
clamp. Overtightening will just force glue
out of the joint, so take it easy. You're
assembling a panel, not engaged in an
arm-wrestling match.
Work toward the other end of the assem-
bly, checking the joints and tightening the
clamps as you go, as shown in the photo on
the next page. If you applied the perfect
amount of glue, it will show up as tiny Applya bead of yellow glue to just one board per joint, and spread it evenly with your finger. All it takes is
beads squeezing out along each joint. enough to coat the surface. Anything more gets squeezed out.

Clean up, repeat, trim
Let the glue set up until it's rubbery. Then
skim it off the wood with a putty knife or
a scraper, as shown below. Leave the clamps
in place for an hour or so.
For a panel 24" wide, we glued up
another three-board piece, then ran both
pieces through our 13" planer to take
down any high spots. Then we joined the
two halves with the same gluing and
clamping procedures as above.
The final panel won't fit through the
planer, but that's not a problem. You can
easily clean up that single, middle joint
with a scraper or a random-orbit sander.
Trim the ends square on the tablesaw, if
your panel isn't too wide for comfort. A
crosscut sled makes that job easier and
safer. (Get a free plan at woodmagazine
.com/crosscutsied.) Otherwise, clamp a
straightedge across the panel and use it as
a guide to make the cut
with your circular saw
or router. (See how on
page36.).
Produced by Jim Pollock

Photographs:
Baldwin Photography
Illustrations:
Roxanne LeMoine
Working quickly, jockey the boards up and down as necessary to get them
Rather than make a mess trying to wipe up wet flat all along each joint. You can clamp a troublesome joint to the bar clamp
glue, let it set up for a while, then scrape it off. sitting underneath.
4 other ways to align edges

All you need is glue to make superstrong edge joints. However, long stock can be tricky to keep lined up while clamping. You
can reduce your stress level with one of these methods.
Biscuit
A plate (or "biscuit") joiner rates as the easiest and quickest way to line up mating pieces.
Matching slots cut in each edge receive a biscuit, which helps align the boards. Read
more at woodmag.azine.com/biscuitbasics.
Spline
Equi'p your router with a slot cutter to make short grooves along both mating edges,
then use your tablesaw to rip wood splines to fit. That's easier than dealing with one long
slot and provides a cheaper alternative to biscuit joinery.
Dowel
Oh-so-convenient biscuits are pushing dowels out of the picture. If you still prefer
dowels, which make a stronger joint than biscuits, make sure they're straight and fit the
holes perfectly.
Routed profile
You can rout a tongue on one piece and a matching groove on its mate. Two drawbacks:
the cost of a special bit, and the challenge of keeping long stock perfectly flat as you run
woodmagazine.com 59
Putthe
Squeeze-on
Excess
Glue
Miss a spot and your
project loses style points.
Here's what to do before
and after glue-up.
Use a common paint scraper to remove glue squeeze-out; just make sure the blade is sharp.
up pieces by gluing them face-to-face, cut
A
little bit of glue squeeze-out is a project, then wait 30 minutes and check
good thing. It shows that you the glue. When it has reached a rubbery a pair of shallow saw kerfs near each edge
used enough glue to produce a consistency all the way through, you can of the piece that will receive glue. Apply
strong joint. However, it's also a potential quickly take it off with a scraper, as shown glue only between the kerfs, and they'll
finish wrecker, so be sure to remove every in Photo A. capture any excess before it can ooze to
bit of it before you proceed. It pays to take extra steps before you the edge and squeeze out. If the ends will
Effective glue removal is a matter of apply glue to areas that will be tricky to be visible in the completed project, use
timing. If you wait and scrape the glue scrape. Photo B shows masking tape being your router table and a Va"straight bit to
off after it hardens, you might pull out applied to both sides of a butt joint, and make stopped grooves.
chunks of wood. You're also more likely the same technique works on the inside Finally, despite all of your precautions,
to miss a spot, only to see it show up corners of a box, for example. always double-check for dried squeeze-
when you apply the first coat of stain or Or, for really tight areas, go ahead and out before moving on to your finishing
finish. If you wipe squeeze-out with a apply finish to those surfaces that will be procedures. Wipe mineral spirits over
damp rag immediately after glue-up, visible in the completed project. Yellow or the project's surface, as shown in Photo
you might smear glue into the surround- white glue won't adhere to the finish, so D, and any dried glue will show up.
ing wood. pores, which makes your you can let the squeeze-out harden, then Remove it carefully with a chisel or a
cleanup task much more challenging. easily pop it loose with a putty knife. well-sharpened cabinet scraper. •
The easy, effective way to deal with Photo C shows a special technique that
squeeze-out is to assemble and clamp your you'll appreciate. When you're building Photographs: Baldwin Photography
Applying masking tape along joints will keep glue Cut glue-stopping grooves Va"deep with your Mineral spirits or paint thinner will reveal any dried
from getting on the wood. Peel off the tape after tablesaw or with a straight bit and router table, glue. The spirits or thinner evaporate quickly, and
the glue is partially or completely dry. then apply glue as shown. won't affectthe finish.

unvarnishedadvice
by Tom Iovino
Joint Decisions
L
ooking back on my first projects, by the millions in factories. That meant
they seem like test boards to see that as long as the average wood butcher
how many metal fasteners I could could drive a fastener, homeowners and
drive into a joint. budding furnituremakers could build
However, the more I learned from other whatever they wanted. No Wonder skilled
woodworkers, the more I got the impres- woodworkers rebelled and began to hold
sion that "fastener-enhanced" joints were all-wood joinery in such high esteem. Cut-
inferior to all-wood joinery. I started cutting precise joints-whether by machine
ting dovetails to hold plywood casework or by hand-is a mark of accomplishment.
together, and I routinely attempted to use Now that I have experience with most
hot hide glue to attach moldings without forms of joinery, I think this metal vs. all-
the need for brads. It got so bad, I started wood argument is off base. Both joinery
hiding my need for metal fasteners from forms have merit. When I build plywood
my buddies-I was afraid my work would cabinetry, cutting dovetail joints to join
be considered cheap. Is that really the case? the carcase has little if any advantage over
Noway. a well-executed dado joint reinforced with
Many joints so common today- screws. Using a pneumatic pinner
mortise and tenons, dovetails, to tack molding onto a
and dadoes- project? I do it all the
evolved over hun- time. Pocket screws
dreds of years of to join parts of a
trial and error and face frame? It's
were traditionally fast, easy, and
cut laboriously by strong enough.
hand. These joints Does this mean you
have tremendous should give up on all-
strength, and the old masters wood joinery? Of course not. In
used them because wood fact, to help keep my skills honed, I
was really all they had to try to build two or three projects each
work with. year with absolutely no metal fasteners,
Metal fasteners weren't out of bounds just to challenge myself. But for most of
back in the 18th century, just out of my projects, I just don't have an issue with
reach 15ecause of their cost. Forged nails turning to brads or screws. I move easily
and hand-threaded screws were so valu- between the two forms of joinery, select-
able, in fact, that old homes were often ing the best of them in turn for their
burned down, ith the fasteners strength or ease of use, based on what I'm
screened from the ash to be used again building. Ultimately, as a skilled wood-
in new construction. Using these scarce worker friend once told me, "Pick the best
nails and screws in woodworking proj- method for the situation."
ects was an acceptable and time-saving I think he hit the nail on the head .•
skill. Yes, I said "skill."
However, as manufacturing processes Tom Iovino of Tampa, Fla.. blogs prolifically at
improved, nails and screws were spit out tomsworkbench.com.
agazine.com
. A straightforward strategy
for f9ster, smoother results
,.~;>;; ~ '." r: -oJ·... I~' .~ ~ '" .•.••.••.
-';!\~':"'f;:~~!t''??,.\'t.·u:r"' ··~.y:t~~::?.,p H ••••••
~~.'
e're all for power-sanding, but In this article, we'll tell you how to cre- smooth finish also means lightly sanding
W once the heavy work is done,

corded tools can't compete with
a little elbow grease. That's because power
ate an economical hand-sanding starter
kit. This selection of abrasives, blocks, and
other materials-and the proper tech-
each coat with 320- or 400-grit paper, then
polishing the final coat.
H you're using a random-orbit sander,
sanders leave small but detectable scratches nique-help you tackle raw wood, you don't need to buy a lot of extra sand-
that can show through your finish. mid-finish, and final polishing chores. paper. For sanding raw wood, buy a few
In contrast, a final hand-sanding (even rolls of aluminum-oxide sandpaper (ISO,
when using the same grit as the power Selecting sandpaper: 180, and 220 grit) to complement your
sander) produces a finer, grain-aligned Stock up to sand less existing collection of sanding discs. Trash
scratch pattern that disappears under the Good news! Your first goal is to sand as lit- that box of partially used sandpaper
first coat of stain, oil, or film-forming fin- tle as possible. Usually, you can stop sand- scraps. You may think you're saving
ish. Plus, hand-sanding offers you the ing at 180 grit before applying a film-form- money, but overused scraps cut more
flexibility and control you won't find from ing finish, such as lacquer or poly, and at slowly, and can leave an uneven scratch
the corded competition. For smoothing 220 grit before oil. (Some woodworkers pattern or burnish the surface. In either
curves, corners, and other small or delicate prefer working up to 320 grit. Test a sample case, you wind up with an uneven looking
under-sanded spots, a custom-made sand- piece of wood to see and feel if the extra finish. With the rolls, tear off only as
ing block is hard to beat. sanding is worth it.) Getting a super- much as you need and toss it when you're
done. (For larger areas, buy a hand-sanding
GRIT 'ER DONE: A SIMPLE HAND-SANDING KIT COVERS EVERY STEP pad, below, equipped with hook-and-loop
GRITS TO
discs from your random-orbit sander.)
TYPE KEEP ON NOTES
HAND
STEP 1: For faster sanding,

150, 180, 220 replace worn paper
Raw wood
frequently.
For dry-sanding only;
320,400 don't use on
STEP 2: water-based finishes.
Between
finish coats Best for water-based
320,400 finishes; tends to clog
when dry-sanding.
Ultrafine Before sanding, make sure

(gray) finish is fully cured.
STEP 3:
Final polish This flexible pad uses hook-and-Ioop sanding discs
Nonwoven Great for
Nonabrasive from your power sander, yet conforms easily to
synthetic pad applying paste wax.
curved faces. The elastic strap reduces hand fatigue.

Carpet-
-•• pad
YOU'LL FIND SOFT STUFF EVERYWHERE CREATE YOUR OWN FILING SYSTEM
Why spend when you can scrounge? We rounded up these sandpaper backers in Glue heavyweight sandpaper to hardwood strips to make "files" for getting
just a few minutes rummaging around the house and shop. into narrow spots and tight corners. Mark the grit on the stick.
Lightly sanding a finish between coats up to wet work. One disadvantage of sheet foam, and cork (see top left photo),
smooths our nubs and other imperfections wet-sanding, besides the mess, is that the that might provide firm support with just
before applying subsequent coats. Because liquid creates the illusion of a thicker fin- enough flex to prevent the paper from
power sanders cut through a finish in no ish. To avoid accidentally cutting through prematurely wearing out.
time flat, it's best to sand finishes by hand. the finish, periodically wipe off the residue Because hardwood blocks don't allow
And here, you have two choices: dry- or to check your progress. the paper to flex, they tend to wear out
wet-sanding. Dry-sanding offers more Finally, buy some nonwoven synthetic paper in record time and leave wood look-
control than wet-, plus it's easier to see pads for final polishing. The ultrafine ing more scratched than smooth. But by
what you're doing. However, the finish (gray) pads contain just enough abrasive to gluing sandpaper to hardwood strips, as
can quickly clog the paper, especially if remove minor imperfections without cut- shown above, you can make wooden files
the finish isn't fully cured. To prevent this, ting through the finish. Use a nonabrasive that excel at shaping corners and smooth-
use a zinc-stearated .abrasive. The stearate (white) pad with a little wax; then buff ing tight spots. Or, wrap a scrap of mating
coating resists clogs by lubricating the with a rag for a showroom glow. joint stock with self-adhesive paper that
paper, but the soaplike residue that perfectly matches the profile, as shown at
remains after sanding may cause bonding Save big by making your bottom left. For wet-sanding, choose blocks
problems with some water-based finishes. own sanding-block set that don't warp, swell, or disintegrate
To be safe, dry-sand those finishes with Good backup is as important as the right when wet, such as sponges, rubber erasers,
silicon-carbide paper, or switch to sandpaper. By keeping the sandpaper in or even old mouse pads.
wet-sanding. constant, even contact with the wood, a Size matters, too. Smaller blocks-no
In wet-sanding, use just enough liquid, sanding block helps you finish faster and bigger than a quarter sheet of standard
such as mineral oil, mineral spirits, or prevents unintentionally dishing or paper-offer more control and a better feel
soapy water, to provide lubrication and rounding-over your work. Luckily, you for what you're sanding. Make the blocks
float off debris that otherwise would clog don't need to spend big bucks for good about an inch narrower than your sandpa-
the sandpaper. For this, you want sili- backup. Before you buy anything, search per so you can wrap and comfortably grip
con-carbide wet/dry sandpaper that stands your shop for scraps, such as ceiling tile, the paper along the sides.
When it's time to sand complex profiles,
small sanding blocks really shine. In most
cases, it's faster and easier to smooth a
tricky curve in parts, simply by using a few
smaller blocks, as shown previous page,
than it is to make a custom-shaped block.
For broad curves, try using rigid foam
insulation. Shape the foam to fit the curve,
and then attach sandpaper and sand the
profile, as shown at near left.•
Source
5" Flex Hand Pad/H&L no. FR22150,$5.95;RawWood
Sanding Kit no. RWS-001,$24.95;from Klingspor's Wood-
To sand the rule joint on this drop-leaf tabletop, we Foam insulation provides firm backup, and is easy working Shop, 800-228-0000 or woodworkingshop.com.
used a scrap cutoff from the mating leaf to create a to cut or sand to shape. An inexpensive offcut
perfect-match sanding block. provides enough sanding-block stock for years. Produced by Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk
woodmagazine.com 63
The StaItt
of a GreetFinish
T
hey call it finish for a reason. It's nish-if the original coat has had time to
the final step in a project and if you cure thoroughly. • Always position your workpiece so that
do it right, it will showcase all your • A finished or painted surface must be light bounces off the surface toward you,
hard work. To help you achieve finish suc- clean and dull for successful recoating. so you can see any runs, sags, or other
cess, here are some tips from the guy who Clean it with soap and water; clean it fur- flaws, and remove them as you work.
quite literally wrote the book on finishing. ther and dull it by rubbing with steel wool
or sandpaper or washing with trisodium The truth about oil
7 rules to finish by phosphate (TSP),ammonia, or alcohol. • Be sure to wipe off the excess after
• There are only three tools used to apply applying oil to the wood. That step is espe-
finishes: spray guns, brushes, and rags. Staining secrets cially important when you use straight
You can use anyone of these tools with • Stains that clean up with water are linseed oil or straight tung oil-they cure
any type of finish. water-based; they'll raise the grain of the slowly and stay soft.
• Products sold as "sanding sealers" don't wood. Before applying them, wet the sur- • Many "oil" finishes are varnish thinned
seal the wood any better than the first coat face, let it dry overnight, and sand it lightly with mineral spirits, and more accurately
of any finish. Sanding sealers just make with fine, used sandpaper. are called "wiping varnish." Some are
sanding easier. • Use gel stains to reduce splotching on blends of oil and varnish. Choose a wiping
• Dye dissolves, so it penetrates into the woods such as pine, birch, and cherry. varnish if you want to build a glossy finish;
wood everywhere the liquid does ..Pigment • If a piece includes both plywood and choose an oil/varnish blend to produce a
suspends and settles, so pigmented stain solid wood, stain samples of both to check satin look with little build.
lodges only in pores and scratches that are the color. Veneered plywood usually turns • To figure out which type you have, pour
big enough to hold it. out lighter because the glue under the a small amount on a piece of glass and let
• The thinner you make any finishing veneer blocks deep penetration, so it needs it start to cure overnight. An oil/varnish
product, the easier it is to apply. But thin- more stain to match the solid wood. blend will appear wrinkled the next day; a
ning reduces the film build, so you might wiping varnish will be smooth .•
have to apply an extra coat or two. Keys to varnishing success
• The basic rule for using a spray gun: • Varnish in a different room than the The Finishing Expert
Keep the gun moving while the trigger is one where you sand, if possible. Other- Bob Flexner wrote
pulled. (Pull the trigger before you swing wise, let the dust settle, then wet-mop the Understanding
the gun over the wood, and release it after floor so that you don't kick it up again. Wood Finishing, a
passing the other edge.) • Hit the brush against your hand to book that has sold
• Finishes bond to one another in two knock out any loose bristles. more than a quar-
ways: chemical and mechanical. Chemical • Wipe the wood with a clean cloth or ter of a million
bonding occurs when the applied coat dis- remove dust with a shop vacuum just copies; he was the
solves into the existing coat of the same, or before you start brushing on the varnish. editor of Finishing
similar, type of finish. For example, thinned • Whenever possible, reposition the piece and Restoration magazine; and he fre-
lacquer will dissolve into lacquer or shellac. as you work so that the area you're var- quently appears at seminars and work-
Mechanical bonding is made possible by nishing is horizontal. Varnish the most shops across the United States. Flexner
scuffing a surface with an abrasive; it's important surface (usually the top) last. and his wife, Birthe, make their home
required when the new coat is not likely to • If you have trouble with air bubbles in Norman, Oklahoma. He became a
dissolve into the existing surface. Varnish remaining in the finish and not popping member of WOOD® magazine's Wood-
needs to be scuffed before you add another out, thin your varnish with 10 percent to working Hall of Fame in 2000.
type of finish-or even another coat of var- 20 percent mineral spirits.

By penetrating deeper into porous areas of curly
maple, an oil/varnish finish brings out the beauty
of the grain figure.
Both the oil and varnish in this finish add amber

color, as you can see on this pale maple. Also, both
ingredients will darken with age.
W
hether you're new to finishing polyurethane varnish to two parts each of nish, and mineral spirits. But as the sample
or just want a fuss-free way to boiled linseed oil and naphtha, which below left shows, you can get the same
protect a project, a wipe-on evaporates faster than mineral spirits. The results and build a film finish quicker by
mix of oil and varnish brings out wood's oil penetrates the wood's surface, deepen- increasing the percentage of varnish until
natural glow while building a shield ing the grain of such species as walnut, you notice wiping marks.
against humidity and wear. And you can and adding grain contrast in curly maple,
repair most minor damage in minutes as shown top right. The varnish leaves a Apply a flawless finish
with just a light sanding and a touch-up thin film finish, while the naphtha makes To prepare the wood, sand up to 180 grit.
coat of this finish. the mixture easy to spread with a soft Then vacuum off dust, or blow it from the
Although commercial oil-varnish mixes cloth. Together, the oil and varnish give pores with compressed air before you wipe
are available, you can save money by mix- light woods, such as maple, a warm amber down the surface with a soft cloth.
ing ingredients in your shop. Jo create the color, as shown above right. Wipe on the finish with a cloth until
finish we applied to the cabinet shown Many oil-and-varnish recipes call for you saturate the wood surface. Then
above, we mixed three parts oil-based gloss equal amounts of boiled linseed oil, var- remove excess finish with a clean cloth,
especially in recesses and corners, where
finish may pool-it will turn soft, gummy,
and tricky to remove. After an hour, check
for signs of oil bleeding out of the pores,
and wipe it away before it cures. Allow one
full day for the finish to cure.
Then lightly sand the finish with a 320-
grit sanding sponge. Clean the surface and
apply a second coat, again wiping away
the surplus. Wipe on as many coats as you
want-with 24 hours and a light
Increasing the percentage of varnish builds protection faster without sacrificing grain-enhancing benefits
from the boiled linseed oil (BLO). The mix on the left produced the same color and depth as the one on the
scuff-sanding between each-but usually
right, but added 50 percent more varnish with each coat. four is sufficient .•.
woodmagazine.com 65
FINISHING
A
ttractive finishes don't always have to be difficult ..
Sometimes, you can get the look you want in a couple
3 Easy Oak of simple steps. To demonstrate these three easy fin-

ishes, we tried them on three small red-oak tables. (See Sources
on page 68 for plans.) Except where noted, we followed these
Finishes basic finishing rules:

V' We sanded all parts to 120 grit prior to finishing, then vacu-
umed and wiped them free of dust.
V' Dyes and water-based stains dried for 4 hours, and oil-based
Forgetfinicky finishes. Try these stains dried overnight before we applied any topcoats.
V' We waited 2 hours between coats of water-based finishes, and
three techniques to bring out overnight for oil-based finishes before recoating.
red oak's different personalities. V' Between each topcoat, we scuff-sanded with 320 grit.
Now, let's start with the easiest finish:
1. Pure simplicity
Have we got a no-flaw finish for you: boiled linseed oil followed
by wipe-on polyurethane. This combo gives wood pores subtle
emphasis, and the surface a natural look that protects the wood
against moisture and abrasion. What's more, you'll have no prob-
lem finding or applying both of these inexpensive finishes.
Ingredients and application. First, flood the surface with gener-

ous amounts of boiled linseed oil: Reapply oil anywhere it's
absorbed by the wood, then wipe the surfaces dry. As oil dries, it
may bleed from the wood pores and harden on the surface. Wipe
away these deposits every hour until you no longer notice them.
Allow the project to sit 4 to 7 days while the oil dries.
• Topcoat: Mix two parts polyurethane with one part low-odor
mineral spirits, and stir. With experience, you can increase the
percentage 'to three parts polyurethane to one part mineral
spirits for thicker coats with each application.
• Topcoat application method: Use a clean cloth to wipe on
this finish. Remove any excess before it runs or puddles.
• Number of topcoats: Apply at least three coats.
Speaking from experience. Compared with brushing on

straight or lightly thinned poly, this technique avoids a host of
problems with dust nibs and brushstrokes.
• Take your time. If you rush the first coat of poly before the
boiled linseed oil dries, the added mineral spirits will reacti-
vate the oil and cloud the finish.
• Project parts, such as the vertical panels in the table, can be
finished before assembly for consistent color.
• This film finish builds slowly, partly because you'll scuff-sand
(and wipe clean) the already-thin coats between applications.
Then, consider adding two additional coats where needed to
protect the project: the top, the outside of the legs, and any
surfaces likely to be marred or scratched.
• Cover up minor scratches by lightly scuff-sanding the dam-
aged area and wiping a coat of poly over it.
• As always with boiled linseed oil, lay oil-soaked rags flat on a
nonflammable surface to dry before discarding them.

. A low-odor choice for indoor finishing
-~_ oor workshop gives you a welcome to use solvent-based finishes outside or the legs on the table shelf, using gen-
~ from winter-that is, until it's spread finish fumes throughout your erous amounts of-stain in long,
==-:: -0 apply a finish. Your only choices house. You have a third choice, though: smooth strokes.
~ to be either wait for warm weather water-based stains and film finishes. • To slightly darken light spots, remoisten
the towel used to apply the stain, and
Ingredients and application. gently wipe the light section until it
• Stain: General Finishes Early American matches the surrounding area.
water-based stain in semigel form. • To remove dried excess stain, make a
• Stain application method: Wipe stain couple of passes with a moistened
on with a soft paper towel; then remove coarse cloth, such as burlap, as shown
it immediately with a clean towel, as below, until the color evens out.
shown below. • Take care when staining projects that
• Topcoat: ZAR Ultra Max water-based mix veneer plywood and solid oak. The
satin finish. plywood may require additional stain
• Topcoat application method: Brush on applications because it absorbs less
or spray on with a touch-up sprayer for stain, producing a lighter color.
less overspray than a full-size spray gun. • Should the stain raise the grain slightly,
• Number of topcoats: One coat to seal, make three light passes over the stained
followed by two additional coats. areas using 320-grit abrasive. Do not
sand through the stain.
Speaking from experience. Water-based • Water-based finish dries quickly, even
stain can be a challenge to apply. Leave it inside a spray gun. Clean spray equip-
on a few seconds too long, even under ideal ment between coats to prevent finish
conditions, and it quickly dries. Dry air from clogging the sprayer.
only exacerbates the problem.
• Sanding up to 220 grit reduces blotch-
ing. But the smooth surface traps
fewer stain pigment particles result-
ing in a lighter color.
• Work quickly in small areas, but keep
overlaps to a minimum to avoid lap
marks. Stain long project pieces, like
A moistened, coarse cloth can be used to remove

dried deposits of water-based stain. Then, re-stain
for an even color .
••••. s:a-inwith a circular motion to work pigments into the pores. Then, with a clean cloth, wipe with the
~lI:ilExfremove any surplus.
_c::ag.a.zi·ne.com 67
FINISHING '
3. Deep and dark, but not difficult

Going just one step beyond a basic stain remove surface dye residue with a clean,
and topcoat produces an elegant ebony dry cloth. Note: The dried dye will
finish. The secret? Start with an applica- appear flat and lifeless, but don't fret.
tion of water-soluble ebony dye followed Applying the topcoat adds depth.
by a dark oil-based stain. Unlike black • Stain: With a cloth, apply a dark wal-
paint, this finish still reveals red oak's nut stain in a circular motion to fill
grain lines as a matte color that contrasts the pores. Wipe away excess stain
against the smooth surrounding wood. with the grain. Again, the color may
seem bland after applying stain over
Ingredients and application. Because dye. But the film finish will bring it to
missed spots stand out against a dark finish, life.
dye, stain, and finish parts before assembly. • Topcoat: Brush on semigloss water-
• Surface preparation: Sand to ISO grit, based poly to seal the wood, followed
then raise the grain with a damp towel, by two additional coats.
and lightly scuff-sand to remove raised
nibs. For a solid glue bond, tape off joint Speaking from experience. Vary the
areas before finishing each part. dye concentration and choice of stain to
• Dye: Mix ebony dye (see Sources) at 2 customize the color from all black to a
tablespoons of black dye powder to 6 medium-chocolate color. The dye and
ounces of water. Generously apply the stain should be roughly the same degree
liquid dye using a cloth or sponge of darkness for best results .•
brush. Allow the dye to dry, then
Sources
Stains: EarlyAmerican water-based stain, General
Finishes,800-783-6050, generalfinishes.com.
Varathane Darkwalnut (No.211807)oil-based stain,
800-901-0411, rustoleum.com.
TransTint black dye: No. 128490, $20 for 2 oz.
Woodcraft, 800-225-1153,woodcraft.com.
ZAR Ultra Max water-based satin finish:
United Gilsonite Laboratories, 800,845-5227, zar.com.
Table plans: The tables used to demonstrate our
finishes are modified versions ofthe smallest of a set of
three mission nesting tables, plan No. DP-00015.Toorder,
go to woodmagazine.com/nesttables.
More Resources
~ We have lots more finishing tips
and techniques on our website. Go
to woodmagazine.com/finishing to
browse a variety of free articles.
Ebony dye lays the groundwork for a dark finish, but it doesn't fill oak's deep pores. For that, you need a
stain with pigment particles.

Understandin
Drawings and Pans
Drawings and plans present a graphic set of instructions that you use
to build a project. All the lines, views, dimensions, and abbreviations
serve as a road map to your woodworking success.
he designers and technical illustra- Dimensions rate as the most important
T tors who produce the project plans

and drawings you see in WOOD®
magazine have a big job to do. Their task:
Illustration
Abbreviations
O.c. = On center
element in any drawing. The sketch below
shows the many ways illustrators present
dimensions on their drawings.
Provide you with a plan that's accurate, WI = With
clear, and complete enough fOFyou to fol- W/O = Without
DIFFERENT WAYS OF
low without confusion. •• PRESENTING DIMENSIONS
I.D. = Inside diameter.
That's a tall order. And even the best of O.D. = Outside diameter [-%"-1 --j 3,4" r- --j 1--%"
their work still can be confusing if you - = Approximately
don't fully understand their graphic Ian- .! ± %" = %" tolerance either way ~ ~ ~
guage. Hopefully, the information here <t = Centerline 3ft u (3,411
will help clear up any questions you may F.H. = Flathead (fastener) ~ --j ( "r-
3ft "
--j ( 41 r+
have about this sometimes perplexing R.H. = Roundhead (fastener) ~ ~ ~
aspect of woodworking.
als, arcs, and other graphic devices substi-
Reading the tute for words of step-by-step how-to. The Available space usually determines
illustrator's shorthand trouble is, many of us haven't been where the dimension numbers fall-
Theoretically, the drawings that illustrate schooled to understand this special illus- within the line, outside the line, or away
a woodworking project should be all the trator's language. See the box above for from it with an indicator called a leader.
instruction you need to build that project. commonly used illustration abbreviations There's another style variable you should
The abbreviations, lines, symbols, numer- and what they mean. know about, too. Those little delineators
woodmagazine.com 69
PROJECT PREPARATION
on the ends of dimension lines can assume they differ from hidden lines, which bring the drawing, they condense the view of
several shapes, as shown below. to your attention those surfaces, edges, or long, uniform sections or parts. Break
But, regardless of the symbol-arrow- corners of a part that lie directly behind lines allow an illustrator to scale up a
head, half-arrow, slash, or dot-they all the part you're viewing. Often, you'll be drawing and show you much greater detail
,~
indicate the distance between two points. able to see these parts more clearly in in the same amount of space. But, just so
another drawing on the plan. you always keep the whole object in mind,
TYPES OF DELINEATIONS you'll find total length dimensions used in
conjunction with break lines.
-I· -, "I
t t t
Radii and angles, shown below,can also
appear in different forms. Generally, the
t --.~ INDICATING MOVEMENT
illustrator will use a consistent style, at

least within the same drawing.
Lift door and

INDICATING A RADIUS slide back.
The thick, curved arrows used in the

Assembly lines, above, show you the storage-unit section view above, signal
relationship of one part to another in a part movement. Where arrows used by
completed object, such as a tenon that fits themselves might not explain enough, the
into a mortise. An arrow indicates the illustrator will add a few brief words of
direction of part movement. explanation. In our example, the arrows
Break lines, illustrated in the part show you which way the cabinet door
drawings, below, represent another swings and then slides, and the words help
often-confused or misunderstood aspect you get the complete picture.
of illustration shorthand. By abbreviating
INDICATING AN ANGLE
Symbols that identify
materials
The drawings in WOOD employ a variety
PART SHOWN WITH BREAK LINES
of symbols to represent the different
materials being used in a project, such as
solidwood stock, plywood, composition
L-
30°
---.-_
L 30°
. board, glass, and the other materials
shown on the next page.
Should grain direction be important to
the design or construction of the project,
you'll see it sketched in, as on the illustra-
tion for solid wood. If critically important
Centerlines mark the middle of parts PART SHOWN WITHOUT BREAK LINES to the project's structure, the drawing will
and the hub of circles, usually to aid in include a notation saying "grain direc-
_...-------72"-------1.
your dimensioning. As you can see below, U tion" with an appropriate directional
1-1 I
,
arrow. End grain, where it's necessary to
t,"",,", =$= 1
be indicated, is drawn to look just like the
end of a board.
Other nonwood materials used in proj-
ects will have their own design or pattern
1- H'dd"i;;;,--------------------------- - - --I and coloring to set them apart, and will
have separate callouts.

COMMON WOODWORKING THREE-DIMENSIONAL DRAWINGS
MATERIALS SYMBOLS
g/<c(~////////~/<;/j
" " " " ,,',S',>,:'<''' "" ",,-
Plywood (as seen on large-scale drawing)
/---<>.,
",.-"" •..
",.-,... , •.... "
Plywood (as seen on small-scale drawing) , .. ',,"' .

........
Et --I%t-J
Solid wood, face or edge grain ISOMETRIC
,,; .... '
PERSPECTIVE
~~~~~
Solid wood, end grain
VIEW DRAWINGS
~1,):::\<;~·~\~·:·,~f;1-~.·::::·j
I:; ·:H.:),:~::~·~:·::;::~:
Particleboard or hardboard
/:.1
%"1\
r,
2"
0 c:::n
\"
Glass or plastic (any shiny surface)
EXPLODED VIEW
0 c:::n
Glass viewed from edge

CUTAWAY VIEW
Pictures worth a
thousand words
Your eyes see objects in thre dimensions
-height, width, and depth. When an
illustrator attempts to duplicate what your
eyes see, he or she draws an object pictori- sions missmg, check the Materials List at If necessary, the illustrator will add
ally, using either isometric or perspective the end of each project article. detail drawings to provide you with an
techniques, as shown above right. Three other pictorial techniques, shown enlargement of a specific part or aspect of
If an isometric drawing is done to scale, above, help you understand a project. The joinery that otherwise would be difficult
you could take measurements from it exploded view or assembly drawing sepa- to see or comprehend. It also provides lay-
because all parallel lines remain parallel. rates the parts. out dimensions that would be hard to
In perspective, the parallel lines seem to Many projects are too complicated or depict in a larger-view drawing.
converge at a distant point, like looking have too many parts to be shown with just Exploded, cutaway, and detail views
down railroad tracks to the horizon. Most an exploded view. So illustrators some- each provide different types and amounts
WOOD magazine drawings are done in times use a cutaway view, with all the of information about a project's construc-
perspective. Therefore, you should rely on parts intact but some material "cut away" tion. That's why they're often used in
the dimensions shown. If you find dimen- to reveal hidden details. connection with each other.
woodmagazine.com 71
PROJECT PREPARATION
You also can find detail TIel:S drawn in

the flat plane, bottom center. They give you
an enlargement of a part, or joinery, that
otherwise would be difficult 0 under-
stand. Dimensions, arrows, and instruc-
FLAT-PLANE tions or descriptions support the illustra-
(ORTHOGRAPHIC) tion as necessary to provide darity.
DRAWINGS
Project patterns
for you to copy
On a project plan, designs or parts with
irregular lines, such as a curved chair back,
show up drawn as patterns. You can copy
full-siz patterns without reduction or
enlargement. But books and mazazines
can't always devote the space eeded for
full-size patterns, unless the ~ happens
to be very small. So the tlhzsrraror uses a
less-than-actual-size grid lien, below.
SIDEVIEW Drawn on a grid of squares, wtth each
square representing a full-size area, the
pattern must be enlarged iffi _' a use it.
You'll find the amount IX enlarzement
given as a scale, such as fad; squme = 1".
Flat-plane drawings do away visually sawing the project in half, you That simply means that you should draw
with the third dimension can see the relationship between the parts the pattern on paper \ jfu -: squares for
Three-dimensional project drawings may in the finished project. faithful reproduction.
look more realistic to you, but for simple, The vertical lines on the front-view When a part has two t' teal halves,
easy-to-read, easy-to-transfer dimensions, drawing identify the cut plane from where the grid may show only be''': - e part, as
illustrators rely on the orthographic or the view (section A-A) was taken. The with the chair back illcs . After
flat-plane approach. short lines with arrowheads indicate enlarging the pattern, art IT O'~ Craw one
In flat-plane drawings, you look at the which direction you're looking when half of the part, and flip tne ~zrtern over
project straight on-usually from the viewing the section. Section. views show for the other half of the par., ••
front, the top (sometimes called a plan details too complex to depict with just
view), or the side. The drawing above hidden lines. Produced by: James R. Downing ~
Peter J. Stephano
shows you how an illustrator would graph- Illustrations: Bill Zaun and Ro LeMoine
ically take a three-dimensional object
apart for each view. FLAT-PLANE
DETAIL
A section view, shown below, provides a
DRAWING
peek into a project's interior along a sin-
gle, identified plane, as if the project had
been sawn apart down that plane. By
SECTION VIEW
\'\6' glue pocket
at each end
JOINT DETAIL
SECTION VIEW
A~
FRONT VIEW SIDE SECTION FRONTVIEW
VIEW A-A
72
1. Look ahead.
Don't waste tifi.1e and effort by cutting a part too
small, or J€ilHzing' too late that your hardware
doesn't fit quite the way ours did. Avoid problems
by noting the asterisks in the Materials List, which
designate parts to cut oversize. If you decide to
substitute different hardware for the items shown
~ in OU( Supplies or Sources, plan for any corre-
spending changes in construction. Whether you
substitute or stick with our recommendation, buy
the hardware before you start building the project.
2. True up your stock. 3. Get the best out of the grain. 4. Rip slightly overwidth.
When you need absolutely flat parts-for Beginners treat all lumber as equal, but When you're cutting parts to final
door frames or tabletops, for example- experts use each board to its best advan- width, leave an extra );'32" as you rip
always face-joint each part and then run it tage. Look for an interesting figure to them to size on the tablesaw. Make light
through the planer. The jointer makes one make an eye-catching box lid or cabinet passes on your jointer to remove the
face flat, and the planer makes the oppo- door panel. Set aside straight, even grain saw-blade marks and trim the parts to
site face both flat and parallel to the first for making panels, rails, and stiles. When their final widths. Make sure your
one. Before moving on to shaping and edge-gluing boards, take time to find an jointer is properly adjusted (see wood-
assembly, thickness all of your solid stock arrangement in which the grains seem to magazine.com/jointertips) so you don't
without changing the planer setting. blend together at the joint lines. wind up with snipe on the workpiece.
woodmagazine.com 73
5. Double-check sheet goods. 6. Start using stops. 7. Sand and stain' ceo
Before you cut rabbets or dadoes to receive Most projects call for twoor more iden- =~dand
plywood or other sheet goods, measure tical parts, or parts of 'the same length. finish some parts. You cz:: - --~ d the
the thickness of finish-sanded pieces, and Just use a stop to guarantee perfect inner edges of the frame ~ .--'=::_ file of
make a test cut in scrap. Don't assume matches. In most cases, all you need is a a panel before assemb ~~ s: ~- i-panel
that the sheet material is exactly }4" or simple block clamped to a tablesaw door. If you're usinz ~ =-- ~_ it to
some other nominal dimension. Shims miter-gauge auxiliary extension, your the panel before zss- -:... avoid
can fine-tune the width of your stacked mitersaw fence, or your router-table unstained areas that :::.:~ later
dado blade to the exact width needed. fence, as shown above. when the panel con
8. Dry-fit before gluing. 9. Glue with care. 10. Give the g e - e.

Halfway through a major glue-up, noth- If every joint you make becomes a glue- In 70-degree corrr- -,- ~ ::dlow-glue
ing's more frustrating than realizing two gusher during assembly, you're using too joint requires an;" _ - - - ~- a and a
parts won't quite go together. Test-fit each much adhesive. Spread an even coat of day of drying to .+ ~_s=c::Jrth. But if
joint as you cut the mating pieces. Then glue on one piece of each joint. You're you're workin ir; - '': .s"'-'.c.Qe in the
test-fit the entire assembly, using only using the perfect amount when clamping winter, double d drying
clamps. If that's not practical, dry-fit the produces a line of small glue beads along times for each ::- =-.: i±: ~ below 70
sub-assemblies to make sure those units the joint. Wait about half an hour until degrees. Ordinary _~ a e works
fit together properly, and eyeball align- the squeeze-out becomes rubbery, and down to the mid : _ - -'-", temperature
ment .or double check measurements remove it with a sharp paint scraper. of the wood is - - e " than the air
between sub-assemblies. If everything Clean the scraper frequently with a paper temperature. 1:; ~ ~ aas been in
checks out, take things apart and glue towel to avoid pushing a glob of glue freezing condtti --= L -=:::- et it warm
and clamp the pieces together. across the surface. up before starting --:..."=ss.=r-bty .•
74 ='" ~ - inoodworking
. I
I
Cheap as dirt, solid as a rock
nexpensive.material and ingenious the distance you measured on your saw.
I design work together in this sturdy

bench project that's a cinch to build.
Clamp the second sheet to the first, and
cut part A to width, as shown in Photo A.
Corner or straight bench:
it's your choice Cut out the bench parts 3 USingthe cutoff from the first part A
as a straightedge, clamp it to the other
This article shows you how to make the
corner bench shown in the top photo.
Ifyou prefer a straight bench (above)
1 TempOrarilYfasten 4'-long 2x4 exten-
sions to a pair of sawhorses, and lay a
sheet of %" particleboard across them. The
sheets, allowing for your measured ci~cu-
lar saw offset distance from the parts'
dimensions. Cut the rest of the parts A, B,
follow the same instructions, but make extensions will support both the workbench C, D, and E to size [Cutting Diagram].
two right bases (A),two ends (C), and
the long top (D). Omit the biscuit slots
in (D). Use the cutouts from the right
bases (A)to make two long base shelves
parts and the cutoffs as you work. Referring
to the Materials List on page 78, mark the
width of the right base (A)on the sheet.
4 Lay out the end and center cutouts on
the right bases (A) and left bases (B),
where shown on Drawing 1. Drill blade-
(F). Fityour straight bench with
optional shelves at each end by making
the long and short cleats (H, I) and the
2 Measure the distance from the right
edge of your portable circular saw's
shoe to the right side of the blade. Lay a
start holes and jigsaw the cutouts, or see
the Shop Tip on page 78 on making inside
cuts with your circular saw.
long and short shelves (L K)from the
extra particleboard. second sheet of particleboard on the first,
offsetting it from part A's marked width 5 Trueup one edge of the four base cen-
ter cutouts. Cut the upper and lower
woodmaqazme.com 75
STARTER PROJECTS
short shelf for each end. Lay the long

shelves on the long cleats. Drill pilot and
countersunk shank holes, and screw the Making inside "plunge"
long shelves to their cleats. Lay the short
cuts with a circular saw
shelves in place .• To get arrow-straight edges when
making inside cuts, like the ones
Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund needed to remove the cutouts in the
Project design: Cameron Campbell and Chad Veach workbench bases, use your circular
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson saw, a straightedge, and a technique
Photographs: Marty Baldwin
called plunge cutting. Here's how.
Measure the offset from the edge of
your circular saw's shoe to the side
of the blade. Clamp a straightedge to
the part, offsetting it that distance
from the cutout's layout line. part, as shown in the photo, above.
With the saw's depth adjustment Keepi g the saw's shoe against the
loosened, raise the blade above the straightedge, continue your cut,
part's surface. Starting at one inside stopping at the next corner's
corner, hold the shoe against the intersecting layout line. Repeat with
straightedge, and swivel the blade the other three sides of the cutout.
guard out of the way. Switch on the Finish the making the cuts at the
saw, and lower the blade through the . corners with a handsaw.
Interlock the slots in the left bases (B)with the Cutting Diagram
right bases (A).
--------------------,
Q)! Q) !®l®
% x 48 x 96" Particleboard (2 needed) % x 48 x 96" Particleboard
Interlock the slots in the ends (e) with the bases.

Add the lower base shelves (F, G).
Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
Part T W l MatI. Qty.
® A right bases W' 38" 98' P
B left bases y,," 38" 98'
~ C ends y,," 30" 38"
% x 48 x 96" Particleboard (2 needed) y,,"
D long top 30" 96" P
E short top *" 30" 00" P
F lon~ base ¥" 25" 47''''"

she ves
G
short base ¥" zs: 41%" P
Drill pilot holes, and screw the upper base ® shelves
shelves (F, G) in place. H long cleats ¥" H2" 23j(," P 4
I short cleats ¥" Ii<,," 16l'2" P 4
J long shelves ¥" 16)('- 2314" P

% x 48 x 96" Particleboard
K short shelves ¥" 16W 16l'2" P
Slot Material key: P-partideboaJd.

template Supplies: #8xl \1,," flathead wood screws,#8xl y,"
flathead wood screws, ii8x2" flathead wood screws,#20
biscuits.
Router bits: y," flush-trim,~' round-over.
Position the long and short tops (0, E).Drill pilot % x 48 x 96" Particleboard
holes, and screw the tops in place.

Low-tech, High-appeal
icture Frames
If you can turn
on a router,
you can turn heads
with these
eye-catching displays
for your photos.
off life's most

And when Follow these tips for best results on both frames
~ Toavoid workpiecetear-out and burning, rout ~ Leave the protective covering on acrylic
frames yourself,
in Ys"-deepincrements. leave )32" for the final until it's ready for installation.
- on the cake. pass to ensure a smooth, dean finished cut.
rectangular ~ Finish each frame with three coats of
and a few ~ Sand individual parts, induding all routed spray lacquer, sanding lightly with 320-grit
....,..--=-;;..- •.••.. s;;::::;:roullld your pho- profiles, before assembly. sandpaper after each coat.
craftsmanship.
etails, you'll
turn to for;::: w, or band- Add pizzazz with laminated wood and splined miters
saw for a ~ ::::::~:sEIIl:U cuts. After Contrasting woods-in both then joint away that Y3Z" to remove the
that you'll ~ _-to your router the laminated stock and the saw-blade marks. If you don't own a
table. Don ~ ~
from a 1
a simple one
rood with a ~
miter splines-give this frame
spectacular depth and flair.
jointer, you can do this at your router
table using a straight bit. Shim the out-
router mourzz; ~-",---=. ••....... :md a plywood feed side of the fence to offset the
fence, clar::::;'f:=.;- =
edge. (Or ~
.corn/simpler;
_ 1
workbench
magazine
Begin by machining a 41" length of
cherry to W' thick x 1 W' wide. Also,
machine a 41" length of maple to Ys" . 3Rout
amount of material removed. Or, use a
handheld router and a straightedge.
a W' cove V16" deep with a
The fraczs - hold Sx7" thick x 1Yz" wide. Laminate the two roundnose bit along one edge of the
photos, bffi::'::.::t;::-::::t:::::::l::;o.:-:sused in mak- together, and then crosscut that piece maple face of each blank [Drawing 1a].
ing the uc~e<"
smaller phcces
board; for ~~
_ anv size. Fit _into two 20"-long blanks. Mill an extra
es with mat
snnply extend
piece of Ys"-thick maple 1" wide and13"
long for the splines.
4 use the same roundnose bit to rout a
Yz" flute Yl6" deep on the maple face
[Photo A].
the frame --
Check out :i;.: :::;;s
let's get c••,-,---,,-~:::-
2
- your photo.
and then
When the glue has dried, joint one
edge on each blank, rip them to Y32"
greater than the 1W final width, and
5 Rout a Va" rabbet ¥J6" deep on the
back of each blank on the same edge
that you routed the cove.
79
STARTER PROJECTS
D EXPLODED VIEW FRAME #1 lEI FRAME SECTION

r . 7"_~1 1-·>----114"--~
'Is" rabbet
5116'deep
E5E
~ Va x 53116 X 73116"
3H
~ ~8"SPline
BACK 3;16"
clear acrylic Va x 50/,6 X 70/,6"
rr=~~~---n -fr
SUPPORT
Turn-
button
o SPLINE-CU
18" £'d or MDF
6 cut the frame sides to length [Drawing

1] with 45° miters at each end. Glue
and clamp the frame using a band clamp.
7 While the glue dries, build the spline-

cutting sled from W' hardboard and %"
and tight against both stops, rout the
slots in all four corners [Photo 8]. 11 cut the ~_
1] with - =- - ~_
g
plywood or medium-density fiberboard

(MDF) [Drawing 2].
g cut the maple spline blank into 3"
lengths. Glue and insert the splines
Glue that bE'E-=
frame bottom ::=::. .-=-=::":::-
S NoWinstall a Vs"slotting cutter in

your router table, centered on the
cherry portion of each frame side. Adjust
into the frame slots. After the glue dries,
trim the excess [Photo C). Then sand the
splines flush to the frame.
12 APPl:
will ~ 0--
to the frame
- ~'._".=~_
the fence so it's flush with the bit's bear-

ing. Then, holding the frame in the sled 10 cut the back and acrylic to fit
inside the frame's rabbet.
on the back
acrylic, pho
80
s::::~1etrying to cut
., Then bypass
your joinery at
Start h::-
1' to din::=r-..-
Attach =.
rails and stiles
3].
2 to your miter
gauge ~ -_1'"""\':="-r ..••""'J1iIJT when rout-
ing the rill - a straight bit,
cut 11,4" ~ on the back face
of both rails =:P.III_I~_
3 Routl~ -
test pieces
rail dadoes.. _-'-<-. .•.•u.....s.
stiles shouIE .:t =-
as needed.. -.:c:::: ,:;;a::r:e~
of the stiles =-PiII=-,,£_
4 Ro{lta!~
the rail -
sand) 1!J6" 1
ft_. ~__
- inside corners of
.ext, rout (or
the front edges
and ends of zre
5 Rout J,oS
the stiles
Sand each ~
front edges of
in Drawing 3a.
S!Il::aJ~ then glue and
clamp the fzaze ;
6 0nce tb:::-
'YJ.6" deec
using a rabt
rout a %" rabbet
of the frame
G]. It's not 0
%" cove bit
necessary ill - _ corners with a

chisel. Cut =e acrylic to fit the
rabbet by rre:::c:~~!:::
IIEXPLODED VIEW FRAME #2
7
,
Cut tb:
edge bB= - - - _
the botton; ==
V2"
,lIly.." STILE
'Is" radius
side-to-side, lv.."dado
8 Finish~
buttons == =r
Y16" deep
Produced by
Project desig:::::Ke •••••••
Illustrations: a:a:••• _,l.II __ e:: Lorna Johnson ----~---- ..•
ED SH:T1(J1N VI EW
~ Vax 5'116 x 73116"
~routed clear acrylic
- assembly
114"rabbet
'116" deep
woodmagcm::oc.:= 81
STARTER PROJECTS .
Classic
Bookcase
Build a basic box, the add
a drawer and a door 0
create this bookcase at can
double as a display case.
his classic cherry ~ features
T simple constructior: ~ custom

touches such as the rro " -\,er and
an optional glass door. If _~_ ~leS run
more country or traditiona, _~_ ~ easily
adapt the plan to fit your ~" See More
Resources on page 88 for de
Craft a carcase
1 GIUeup panels for ~

fixed shelves (B) = -
-.=-;; _-\.1 and
- but do
not plane the shelves to -3--'=''' ---K:kness
yet. After the glue dries ~_::=,;: - -es and
fixed shelves to the s!-=- --- _ in the
Materials List. Now, IOU: - __ '='-- • deep
along the rear, inside -~ ::=c --= ies (A).
2 construct the
Drawing 2. To
~ ~ -
Project Highlights
~ Approximate materials cost: $240
~ Dimensions: 35"W x 60"H x 13"0
m
Clamp the dado~- ~ j-(1 PllilC:iIIi!!!l1!I!!!:
mark, then rout akxJg :::e i!!!1I!I=;:F :;lIE :;r.Di: an
back along the OPPIQ5I;;;:;DIm:.
82
Spacer
DCARCASE %" %x 'l'8X 1y," EJDADOJIG
7!i<"
28%"
l/:
4014"
V: 3~ A
59%"
_'-''''-~=and Yz" spiral the jig's alignment plate alonz a layout line, Position the bit in the dado, butted against
1th the router then rout the dadoes [Photo A]. the shoulder nearest the end of the side
~ r a %"-deep
- -- e fixed-shelf
;:I:'!:iD:r::. - e notch in
3 TOrout the groove for the bottom rail
(C), clamp the dado jiO" in position on
a side (A),and place your router on the jig.
[Photo B]. Double-faced-tape a stopblock
against the router base to stop its travel at
this point, then rout the groove.
4 Draw lines across each side (A) to

locate the top shelf-pin hole in each
set of three [Drawing 1]. Make a shelf-pin
drilling jig [Drawing 3] and transfer a line
through the centers of the top hole's and
around the edge of the jig. Use this line to
align the jig before drilling the fa"-deep
holes [Photo C]. Flip the jig face-for-face to
drill the rear sets of holes.
5 Plane the fixed shelves (B) to fit snugly

in the dadoes in the sides (A),then sand
the shelves and the inside faces of the sides
to 220 grit. With a squaring brace (see More
Resources to get a free plan) helping to posi-
tion the parts, glue a fixed shelf to a side
[Photo DJ. After the glue dries, add the see-
wood mag - - 83
STARTER PROJEG:TS
I
® Squaring
brace
ond fixed shelf, then glue the remaining

side to this assembly .' Carefully check the
carcase for square.
the back and centered side-to-side. Trans-
fer the figure-8 fastener locations to the
bottom face of the top [Photos E, F]. With
5 screw the 2Vs"-wide sE:: ~ ;-. place
driving the screws neG::-~F =<-=sc with
the rabbet [Drawing 4aj. - -,= -"-~ next
6 Cut the bottom rail (C) to size [Drawing

1]. Layout and bandsaw the profile and
finish-sand the rail to 220 grit. Glue it in
Forstner bits, drill %" and 1¥J6" counter-
bores in the top to accept the fasteners
[Drawing 4b].
slat in place so the rabbets T--=- -- - then
place a )Is" spacer betweer;
shoulders and screw the Sd~
== rabbet-
- slat in
==
place below the bottom fixed shelf (B).
7 Finish-sand the outside faces and

edges of the sides (A),easing the sharp
3 RiPand crosscut the back slats (F) to size
[Drawing 4]. Note: Instead of making slats
(F) you can cut the back from 14"plywood. Set
place [Photo G]. Repeat
install the remaining s'~
last slat to width if needed,
p:ncess to
u the
corners, and stain the assembly, if desired. up a 12" dado blade in your tablesaw, and
(We wiped on General Finishes Antique attach an auxiliary face to the rip fence. Build a drawer
achieve a good -=-- ==
Cherry oil-based stain.)
Add a top, shelves, and a back

Position the fence and set the blade to cut
a %" rabbet ¥J6" deep. Test your setup on
scrap before cutting the rabbets on the
1 TO
carefully measure ~
-=-.c drawer,
~h
=-
height of the drawer opc:::.2:::s <he car-
and
1 GIUe
up panels for the top (D) and
three shelves (E) and cut them to size
back slats [Drawing 4a]. Rip one slat to 218"
wide, then finish-sand the slats to 220 grit.
case (A-F). Rip the -.c. = -=---unt and
back (G) and sides (I-t::. ~=~r than
[Drawings 1 and 4].
2 screw two figure-8 fasteners to the top

of each side (A) 2W' from each edge
4 Stain the top (D), shelves (E), and back
slats (F)to match the carcase (A-C). After
the stain dries, attach the top using figure-8
the opening's height. C~:he front
and back )Is"shorter ~ ?~ -=--= opening's
width [Drawing 5].
[Drawing 4] and position them perpendic-
ular to the outside face of the side. Place
the top (D) on the carcase (A-C) flush at
fasteners. Set the shelves aside for now. Note:
if you made a plywood back, screw it inplace
and skip the next step.
2 With a W' dado bIaCe i-- :;our table-
saw, cut the gr~
H) to accept the drawer - _
=- "'~,:...
piece (G,
~ . I ext,
With the top (D)centered side-to-side and flush at Extend a centered line perpendicular to the end
the back, trace the exposed hole in each figure-8 through each hole location. Position a figure-8
fastener onto the top. fastener and trace around it.
84 GetSta..--terl i:n Woodworking

-....••~ #6 xl" F.H.wood
"
screw
I-~...........:- ---""'3V2__"
--I I ~2'l'k
/ ..•. IIITOP MOUNTING DE_T_A_IL_
s;." counterbore
VB'deep lv."
F
(Bott~f'''' ~
13h6" counterbore
Vs"deep
55%"
lEI SLATTED BACK (Top view)
r-
~~~~~t;~~~~3=V:2='-=-=-~
" ®
'/8" rabbet 'M' deep 2'l's/l .1
DDRAWER
m DRAWERJOINT
~ 1,4"
~W
1,4"
--11,4" W' bL--t---

I-- lj."
~"hole
)N
"t-- - 20/,6'
woodmaq •••.•.
~- _ 85
STARTER PROJECTS
IICUTTING THE DRAWER JOINT
attach an auxiliary wood fence to the rip the door in the case, creatmg "" as uni-
fence and cut the dadoes in each drawer STEP 1 form as possible. Mark tiu ~ then
side (H) [Drawing 5a and Step 1 in Drawing plane and/or sand them rreare even
6]. Next, raise the blade to match the Also cut the groove gaps [Photo I]. Save the 7rr-<; for use
thickness of a drawer side, and cut a to accept part CD later when mounting the ~
with this setup.
groove in each end of the drawer front , 4Cut the glass stops (L, ~r c-r- ~ rnuntins
Outside face
and back (G) [Step 2 in Drawing 6]. Lower (N, 0) to size [Drawing = :=..::.:a. a sili-
the blade slightly and trim away the cone sealant is used to secure -::::::rruntins
inside ends of the front and back [Step 3 to the glass, so to capture ~~ I cut
in Drawing 6]. Ys" grooves in the rear face c: =----= rmmtin
3 DrY-fitthe drawer and check its fit into

the carcase. Cut the drawer bottom (I)
to size [Drawing 5] and glue up the drawer.
; [Drawing 7b]. Set these pieces - --==
5 Stainthe drawer (G/H/T _"'- .: .:: • "lass

stops (L, M), and illlllIi:::5 _ ~ _ After
the stain dries, apply a topcre::::: :-;32 pieces
Add a door if you like and the carcase (A-F).(We11-.=-"' ~~sh
1. Cut the door stiles (J) and rails (K) to
. size [Drawing 7]. Set up a %" dado blade
water-based polyurethane.
'6Insert shelf pins to ~ ~=- elves
and auxiliary rip fence on your tablesaw where desired and p ~ -=--= ';-=':n>s (E)
and cut a %" rabbet on the inside edge of in place. Slide the drawer :::::;:~ zzrcase.
each piece [Drawing 7a].
Quick Tip! Set up your tablesaw carefully,
and a half-lap joint squares itself during assem-
bly. Set your miter gauge exactly 90° to the <,
blade, and make sure that the rip fence clamps 14"dado blade
parallel to the blade.
STEP 3
2 Cut the half-lap joinery [Drawing 7a]
as shown in the Shop Tip below. Glue
and clamp the stiles (J) and rails (K)
Auxiliary
wood fence
together, and check the door assembly for Outside

face
square and that it lies flat.
t
3 TO achieve an even Yli' gap around
the door, lay the carcase (A-F) on its
back. From %" MDF or plywood, cut two
spacers to place inside the carcase and
support the door flush with the front Mark the amount, if any,
from each corner of the d
edge of the sides (A) [Photo H]. Position marks with a straight line.
Take the confusion out

of rabbeted half-laps
Typically, when cutting a half-lap joint
in equal-width pieces, you cut both
halves of the joint with one blade and
fence setting. However, rabbeting the
stiles (J) and rails (K) to accept glass
changes things. When cutting away
the front face of the rails right, you also
remove the rabbet, which dictates
a narrower half-lap on the stile
[DraWing 7a]. [t's easy to get confused,
so follow these foolproof steps to cut in this case (the 2W' width of the rails
this asymmetrical joint. and stiles minus the %" width of the
Start with the rip fence at the setting rabbet). Cut a half-lap in both parts, then
for the narrower half of the joint, 1%" dry-fit the joint, above right. It will be
86
t·
Cardboard
~~!~::::.~:
'}
edge, clamp the
'Out on the stiles (J)
After drilling Y16" pilot holes, put the glass stops (l,
M) in place, protect the glass . thin cardboard,
and drive the brads with a tack ammer.
EmMUNTIN GROOVES
Mount IIDOOR (Viewed from inside) ---\ 1" '6-%"
1 Cut ~
in th= -
and the g
::Bi:.U' of W' glass to fit
::::ne door facedown
_ ' 'on the vertical Va" grooves
Va" deep,
glass st =- _Mark and drill Va" from
H6" plio "- to the stops with edges
#17xW " the horizon-
tal glass " \ 'ay, 1~' ring pull
Qu;ckr:::!'f.:~:_IIt* •• the glass in place
with a be '
glass this - -
the edges, but for
ding power of 1"
\---- ~
M
nailed-in ~::r.;;;:::m!!;., ~ 1-12'l16" J

~
2 Place - :.
up, arx; ~-
[Drawing = -
. outside face
tins (N, 0)
tins in place
21V4"
during da=.:=;- s lOYzxWto '

fit between -_~I=""<=",. rail (K) and
the honzrszr ::::::::::::I~ K].Also cut
four spa - between the
L L
bottom rrr::::::::!:::.i:::I:. rail. Apply a 49')t,6'
light bead ::;:;-:-
:i:::::::u::J:rxaIant between
the gr lace of each
muntin arz; ::: muntins in
place. , cure for one
hour be ps.
n
#17 x 3,4" brads
Partial-wrap ~x 269A6X 45%" !

glass ,
hinge
woodmag:a:z:c:i!.=1IIl 87
STARTER PROJECTS
- -
MARK THE HINGE LOCATIONS More Resources
3 screw the hinges to the door as shown in
Drawing 7. Rest the carcase (A-F) on its
back, retrieve the spacers used earlier, and
rest the door a-O) on them. Transfer the
hinge locations to the sides (A) [Photo LJ,
then have a helper hold the door in position
while you screw the hinges to the sides.
Remove the tape, stand the bookcase upright,
and test the door swing.
4 Attach the ring pulls to the door

[Drawing 7]. Install the door catch -
where shown [Drawing 4], and the book-
Traditional
Using the same basic constns
case is complete .• techniques, you can alter the s;:-:;;, s: the
Apply painter's tape to the sides (A)adjacent to bookcase to suit your tastes:
the hinges. Mark the top and bottom of the hinge Produced by Craig Ruegsegger with John Olson
barrels on the tape. Project design: Kevin Boyle
Illustrations: Lorna Johnson
.~ Get the full plans for all---==:::oo'
cases at woodstore.ne -:::'-0 - I. $
l'
~ Get a free squaring brace c =- at
Materials List woodmagazine.com 0 c e,
FINISHED SIZE ~ Find more bookcase p --- ~ d
Part T W L Mati. Qty. magazine.com/storag::.. :
Carcase ($=Download this article for a s-"" '-
A sides %11 12" 5914" EC
B* fixed shelves %" 11%" 31W' EC 2
C bottom rail %" 3y," 31W' C Cutting Diagram

0 top %" 13" 35" EC
E shelves %" 10%" 30%" EC
F back slats %t 3)/''' 55%" C 10

% X 714 X 96" Cherry (5.3 bd. ft.) (4 needed)
Drawer
G
H
front/back
sides
I bottom
%" 4%"
y," 4%"
30%"
11W'
C
C
2
%X 714 x 72" Cherry (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed)

[J
Door
J
K
L
stiles
rails
vertical glass
%" 2]4" 49')16"
%" 2W' 30%"
1411 ¥Sll 45 1l6"
C
C
% x 7", x 72" Cherry (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed)
c
stops '
horizontal glass 1411 %"
M 251'8" C
stops
% X 5V2 x 96" Cherry (4 bd. ft.)
N vertical muntin %" 1" 45V,6" C
horizontal %" 1" 12Y16"
0 C 6
muntins
'Parts initiallycut oversize.Seethe instructions. % x 5% x 96" Cherry (4 bd. ft.)
Materials key: EC-edge-glued cherry,C-cherry,

CP-cherry plywood.
Supplies: Ysx26o/J6X451'B" glass,#17x%"brads, ]4"shelf
pins (12),figure-8 fasteners (4),magnetic door catches (2),
P®~----=---~D
% x 714 x 60" Cherry (1.7 bd. ft.) (5 needed)
#6xl" flathead wood screws (20),clear siliconesealant.
Blade and bits: Dado blade; W'self-centering, )16",
Y8" drillbits;%", 1V,6" Forstner bits;]I,"spiral downcut ®
router bit.
V2 X 5V2 x 96" Cherry (2 bd. ft.)
Source
Hinges and pulls: Partial-wrap hinges (3)no.
01H31.92,$4.30; 1Ys" ring pulls(3)no. 01A28.44,$3.20,
LeeValley,800-871-8158,leevalley.com.
14x 12 x 36" Cherry plywood *Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listec - -- ,...,..~."''' ..'S..
88
cture
5:::i:;!!~st pressure-treated
Iyou can find,
e needed length
D EXPLODED VI
to r your area. (Check

with _"'~'-'l~~department for
the -=- The minimum
lenztr; . ts of 87" above
grade - for safe support
of the S;:::-~==='011_-'1].
2
to r
'1~_--
"
of each post (A),
::!:!::!:S::::!!: - - rabbets %" deep
- ill). Using your
portabe the rabbets, as
expl -~=-- next page. Then
lay our e technique to
form a:: - ill the inside face
of each _ ioned.
3 For
ro
posts (_-'-
nee, rout Va"
the edges of the
evenness. Then
sand the ~_.---
4 Fro:- .;
ana ~~-~~-
Then, ~
iCtUal) cedar, rip
s (B) to size.
deck boards, rip
and cr·""":~-""''''' size.
%" shank hole
Note: 1:= _ of the structure with a
joists (C _ - Jftlt center rails (G)
5;\6' pilot hole
==--- 2" deep
on 5/4 - - - that measure 1" in part®
thick. If', ~~;;'-"..,..,.;__ lIIfwure the same
Concrete
thickness, the spacing of footing
these par: assembiy.
3W'i
S Lay -:.
each =--
sioned [
-
oes 1" deep at
where dimen-
- crossarms (B). 5\4" dado Yo-
%" lag screws
3W'long
ii ii
.u
Clamp ~~
with the
er on edge
- e, Now kerf
*111"
minimum
~
!LU
"'~-----_/
47W'
and clean _ using a rafter
square to ~ ss the parts.
6 TO == -
and seat
CUrRS
drawing the
B), joists (C),
_ and enlarge
24"
*Note: Increase length
of posts ® as needed to
reach your local frost line.
;:~V51"
-' imum
the joist ~ on page 95.
Spray-adze _ a piece of W~
hardboar - v the hard-
board d sand the -~,
edge proff ~~~
7~::-~ late at each

d joists (C),
Project Highlights
~ OveraD diE_I5iI_,iI'E!80Y2" wide x 41 %n deep x 9214" high (above ground level)
where d draw the
curve [0 ...••.
~".,r::T~-i·;ng
one end ~ Materials eated 4x4 posts, dimensional cedar lumber and decking, found
of each to mark the at YOULioc; • .;J:J::I:' ;;::l1JlH'
other end, ~ d the parts ~ A patt'!'rr.:::z.·::",,;3':I::1O board template makes laying out the curved parts a snap.
to the J.il.CL..lio:O-.-'''''''''='' ~The = easily using wood screws, lag screws, and nails.
wood'IDa!;a::iae.::= 91
- -
SHOPTIP
4 TOmount the center slat r}{ to the seat
frame, mark centerlines on the top
A safe way to form rabbets and dadoes in large parts edges of the crossarms (E) and ends of the
slat. Position the slat on the frame. centered
Using your tablesaw to cut rabbets
and dadoes in large parts, such as the end to end with thecenterlmes aligned.
posts (A) and joists (C), can be Drill the 10 mounting holes, wi ere shown,
awkward and unsafe without proper but cirive only five screws along rne length
workpiece support and guidance. to temporarily secure the slat. _- -position
Here's a simple and safe method for
and mount the outer slats (I the frame,
forming the joints using your circular
overhanging the crossarms 2 ~ ar each end
saw. Keeping the saw tight against a
guide, such as a rafter square, cut a [Drawing 3a] and spaced *~ :Drawing
series of kerfs to the needed depth 3, Photo A]. Again, secure e;:r:- with
and approximately Va" apart across the only five screws.
part along the length of the rabbet or
dado, as shown. Break away the thin
pieces of waste with a hammer. Then
pare away any remaining material
5 TOround the ends of the - slats (I)
[Drawing 3], align the ta::;;~ where
shown [Drawing 2] and draw -- - curves.
with a chisel to smooth the bottom of Remove the outer slats and ce:::c:- slat (H).
the joint. Jigsaw and sand the outer 5EIS to the
marked lines. Then, us:i..c; z :50-grit
sanding block, round 0\6: _"O.~ - ds and
8 From S/4x6 cedar deck boards, cut the

battens (D) to size. Mark a I" radius at
the crossarms and front/back rails, where
shown [Drawing 3].
corners to blend with the ~ _
along the edges. Set the sea; ~- e and
-overs
each end of a batten [Drawing 1]. Jigsaw

and sand to shape. Using this part as a
template, mark the remaining battens.
2 Assemble and clamp together the cross-
arms (E), front/back rails (F), and the
center rails (G), positioning the front/back
slats aside for now.
Stain or paint the

Now jigsaw and sand them. and center rails where dimensioned [Draw- Apply a stain or primer ;=~-= _ - ill the
ing 3]. Drill the mounting holes, and drive parts. We applied two ClJC._ ::r - - - i-color
Make the seat the mounting screws. oil-based stain on the !XES _- .::ossanns
1 Cut the crossarms (E), front/back rails

(F), and center rails (G) to the sizes
listed. Align the template at each end of
3 Cutthe center and outer slats (H, I) to
the sizes listed. Rout a lis" round-over
along all four edges of the slats [Drawing
(B), seat frame (E/F/G . ~ -= =ames
OIK/L), and a transparer; _ _ see stain
on all other wood parts,
the crossarms (E) [Drawing 2] and mark 3]. (You'll need to hand-sand round-overs
out the curve. Jigsaw and sand the curves on the ends of the slats after cutting them Assemble the strl[]ct:n:re
'=== -
to the lines. Then rout lis" round-overs on to shape.)
1 Center the crossanns ~
the rabbets in the ::
mounting holes thnY_::"'-- ---.= =ussarms
end in
_~ Drill
TEMPLATE ALIGNMENT FOR CURVE MARKING
and into the posts, ago-
nal hole locations ill -~.= - >< cros-
sarms to prevent ;=; 5...-
Template [Drawing 1]. Drive
washers, leaving the 5.-:_ s..:-::-
to allow for easier ass.=- ';...- _ - --= - -
STRUCTURE CROSSARM 2 TOmount the - 5:s L

post/crossarm --==.--
47W' apart, across ~ _
- --
=- -
- soaced
the
"'iorses.
(We placed a 60 - _~ - -= =----=- on
top of each of our SG - IT the
assemblies.) Starting = =:c ~_~_ damp

SEAT
OUTER SLATS
a joist to the crossazrs ? =- <:::ends
[Drawing 1]. Toenail --=-", --'" eros-
sarms with 8d ~ ~ - -- nails,
sinking the n . h=-- the
j ",
2" overhang
SEAT CROSSARM remaining joists ::: ~
spacers to positi
_ ,; : -long
_-ow
reposition and c1;= _ =:c _
to keep them Mount the seat
.l:S~so.::cotthe battens (D). Attach the center and outer s1m (H, I) to
across the joists the frame (E/F/G), drtvmg - e screws into
ends and centered all of the mounting holes, ~on the seat
overhang [Drawing in the dadoes in the posts _" [Photo OJ,
through the bat- and clamp the seat' ': between the
ten a::::L:::::"::IE":~ il:Jt:W:_ the joists. Drive the posts. Then drill m~g screw holes
=::'e::.::::::i::J:iI::I::~- remaining battens through the crossarms 'E 2:lC centered into
spacers [Photo CJ. the posts. Slip flat wascers onto the lag
Leave the struc- screws and drive the lag ~ in place, but
SiiW!JorseS. don't over-tighten them.
• I •
Working from the center slat (H) out, mount the

outer slats (I) to the seat frame using o/s"-thick
spacers to position them.
Os
%4' pilot hole

\18" deep
-=
<~:~. =E . :2 _- stainless steel
<,
--<::~ ;t screw
7/64' pilot hole 1'h" deep
ont)
With an outer joist (C) in place, use 9W'-long

spacers to position the remaining joists for
toenailing to the structure crossarm (B).
93
Install the structure
Caution: Before you dig the postholes, dial
811, the "One Call" phone number for your
state or province, and ask to have the buried
pipes and wires on your property located and
marked. You can also find information for
your state at call81l.com.
On flat ground, mark the centers for two
holes for the posts (A) spaced 51" apart
[Drawing 1].
2 using a posthole digger or an auger,

dig/drill 1O"-diameter holes, centered
on the marked locations, to the needed
depth to reach your frost line plus another
6" for a gravel base [Drawing 4]. Pour 6" of
gravel into each hole.
From the outer batten (D),position and screw-

3 With a helper, set the structure in
place. Plumb the posts (A) and level
the unit, adding or removing gravel as
mount the remaining battens, using 7Y2" spacers to
position them on the joists. needed. Then brace the posts [Photo E].
Now fill the holes with concrete.
Use a level to check that the pas::;- -
4 After the concrete cures, remove the
lx3 bracing. Fill the screw and nail
holes with acrylic caulk, and touch up
Then stake and brace them
with 114" flathead screws.
with stain or paint. Now put in some

plants and flowers, step back, and admire
your amazing handiwork. •
Produced by Owen Duvall with Dave Grieve

Project design: Jeff Mertz
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
I • •• •
Spread the posts (A)just enough so that they fit
into the center openings in the seat ends. Slide the
seat into the post dadoes. IIPOSTHOLE SECTION VIEW
® As an option, installl.atfice.:i:s:i:3l= ::i

seat for a prlvacy-screee ;lIi:c:::::iIis.
o • For plans, go to w
gardenbench.
< , Concrete
Depth of hole : : o
must be at .'
least 24" •0
; ,: 10"-diam.
plus 6" fa; '~,: c hole
0
a gravel base. • ~ ::/

0, '
Gravel
94
C:uttitog IlliII••• Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
@ 7
Structure T W l MatI. Qty,
A posts 3h" 3h" PT 2
B crossarms lv," 514" 34Y2" C 4
C joists 1" 4%" BOh" C 4
D battens 1" lY2" 41%" C 10
Seat
E crossarms lh" 514" 24" C
,,"""---j
F front/back rails lY2" 214" 46" C
G center rails 1" 214" 19" C 3.

:1 I H center slat %" 314"· 47h" C
I outer slats %" 314" 54Y/ C
[The minimum length is 111" for posts (A). This includes a

below-grade minimum length of 24" for safe support of the
C!)\-----------, structure. Increase the length of the posts as needed to reach
your local frost-line depth.
Materials key: PT-pressure-treated pine, C-cedar.

Supplies: Spray adhesive; #8x1J4", #8x1%", #8x2",
#8x2Y2", and #8x3" stainless steel flathead wood screws;
%" lag screws 3" long (8);%" lag screws 3Y2"long (4); %"
flat washers (12);8d galvanized finish nails; 50-pound bag
More Besc- .: : -= s - of gravel; concrete (one 60-pound bag per 12" depth
of posthole); acrylic caulk.
RELATED ARTICLES Bits: Ys" and %" round-over router bits.
~ Learn how to beco .•....
cstmaste r"
when digging post•.••uo.= ces
~t;::.:'"E":::Dllrtstraightedge. or outdoor stru '
woodmagazine.c aster
($ = Download this artide fora ~
1--- ----------14- --------c----------I

- edge of parts@and E v,"
--------------------------r--------------------r------------
1---------- --= --
Top ed9!~
JOIST ICROSSARM
End ofJl?=~ HALF-SIZE PATTERN
andtC
~
- rI\
zsof parts\.!.; 4
--";JGrtC!) (enlarge 200%)
-----------~ ----~--------- ---~-----------~~
514"
. I 23;'''
U
woodmagal==.c~ 95
~ Overall dimensions are
48" long x 14"deep x ~:-lW,J.,
~ Materials needed: 6 feet
of 3;4" cherry and a CJUalI'tEF-sbeet
of 3;4" cherry plywood
~ Learn how to cutconsisbml~
laps using a router.
~ Create a mo . look
that's easiel 0 •.••••••••
fi•••••.•
tN>
real thing.
Easy and Elegant T hose may look like ~ff mortise-

. and-tenon joir::::s;::: -=-.::: '~ of this
table, but we'll:6:: _ _ =--- on a little
secret: You can make -"'-3= ~ using
Hall Table
Beautify your home with this stylish piece built using
only basic woodworsrr 5 S!::CS ::>~e screws.
Start with stretebers

and shelves
1 Cut a 4x34Yl b>-.. 1 for the
upper stretchers r-, ::. -= - _:= blank
(blank 2) for the ~ ::- -"'-.-- 13)and
fuss-free joinery and easy-to-find materials. six end stretchers C :=:: ~ -= c~? blank
(blank 3) for the _~ ~ =.:. -belf trim
96 orkinq
AND TRIM BLANKS
%" rabbet?~O~~~~ *7"

3/8" deep ~
B 4" D
V V3V2" Cut here to form parts
BLANK 3 @and®.
BLANK 2 Cut here to form --:s ©.
Note: *lnitiallyC'_~~ see instructions.
D Yellow indiGLS ~
EJUPPER STRETCH'
~'::'_""ram on page 100.)
GIr::I'I_,...tswithonepass. To ASSEMBLY ~ 34" " A--=---":O-
save __ .JIEI:II_:y., cut rabbets and
..••..••••.
a:;;:E·:SII_~.~cutting the blanks
. g technique
W' straight bit
--.- .•.•••.- .••,..;r, end of blanks 1
. 3 [Drawing 1].
s 1 and 3.
upper stretch-
ge 100]. From
3e~ :il1laI:hers (B) and two
cut the end IIEXPLODED Vl
-.-"""" .....,~-
four ¥I"-wide
stiles (D) by
dadoed end so
_-wide and %"-
~~~~~~~~~~§~~~i~~ Figure-8
tabletop
:
i!
'\. ::
fastener ~
h~o~le
14" deep
with a countersunk
'h," shank hole
centered inside
l'
of the strips T
:a..if~.•••..(E). ~
#8 x 114"
. of upper " F.H.screw
.If stiles (D) .,j
r the other
stiles. Then
.""'~:)
'Is" plug
~ 'Is"long,
. hand Yz" • trimmed
flush after
strips cut assembly
trim (E) a G
::1IIES!!t' in length. ,I %" rabbet
on the 31"
I 'Is"deep
rip fence
to cut the
on one
fence to
.E;i~::1ies -." final length.
3,4" rabbet 'Is" deep
woodmaga:z:lli!£.::= 97
STARTER PROJECTS
Because the shelf trim (E)doesn't extend to the end

of the shelf (F), you can cut the shelf assembly to
length with parallel ends.
Build mortises into the legs same direction for consistent grain and color leg with the ends flush. ~ ~ 4 and
5 for the other three legs, ::::c:::. -=:::' each leg
1 Rip the outer legs (G) Yt6" wider and
Yz" longer than shown [Materials List,
Drawing 4]. Rip the inner legs (H) to
along the leg. Cut a 2" piece from each
filler (I). Glue and clamp one of these to
the top end of each leg (G/H) where
to width [Photo E].
width and Yz" longer than shown. Rip the shown [Drawing 4]. IILEG ASSEMBLY
filler blanks (I) Yt6" wider than shown.
Then cut a Ys"-deep glue-relief kerf in the
inner leg [Drawing 5].
4 From a filler (I) blank, cut a piece to fit
between the upper stretchers (A). Hold
an upper-stretcher assembly (AID) in posi-
2 GIUeand clamp an inner leg (H) to an

outer leg (G) with the ends and one
edge flush [Photo B]. Scrape off glue
tion on the leg (G/H/I). Glue and clamp the
filler to the leg as shown [Photo e], and
remove the upper-stretcher assembly. After
squeeze-out before it dries. Repeat for the the glue dries, cut a 19%"-long piece from a
other three legs. After the glue dries, cut filler. Reinsert the upper-stretcher assembly 'AI" hole 14"deep
on outside face
the legs to length. Note: Label each leg to position the filler, and glue and clamp it with a countersunk
with its position on the finished table. You'll in place. Repeat for the other three legs. 'hi' shank hole
31"
centered inside
add filler pieces to make mirrored legs at
each end of the table. 5 Near the bottom of a leg (G/H/I), use a
lower stretcher (B) as a spacer and tem-
3 QUiCk Tip! Keep grain the same. Useone

filler (I) blank for each leg and mark one
outside face. Then orient the marks facing the
porarily clamp the last filler (I) piece in
place. Mark and cut the filler to length
[Photo D]. Glue and clamp the filler to the
Drill plugs without

a drill press
Most plug cutters require a drill press to Note: Part positions
hold the bit steady as it cuts. In a handheld will vary with the
drill, their cutting prongs would catch on leg orientation.
See the instructi -
the wood and skitter across the surface.
But the %" tapered plug cutter shown here
(see Sources, page 700) eliminates the DLEG {TOP VI
need for a drill press. A center spur
steadies the bit as its cutting edges enter
the wood, but retracts as you push. After
cutting plugs, pry them loose from the
bottom of the hole using a screwdriver. In
addition to the %" cutter shown, you can
also buy self-centering cutters to make VJ6"
and Y16" plugs.
98 ~ =-- ""'oodworking
3 Make 12 _ ~
Tip on the .:
(We used % -~<-::;-;:j-~
~=:::2!'::.
- e Shop
scrap.
atives,
see the Shop z- _ the plugs
loose with a =~===
4 GIUe an -
counte
After the
into the
(G/H/I).
- - plugs off
close to the -=-== ~ [Photo J].
cher (C) Then hand-sari - flush with
A) rabbet the legs = sandpaper
wrapped ~.- ~ :=Z:'.iiiI!OOitng block.
Quick r~ - inate plug
bumps. A works faster
than hand ;hIe pad can
leave the p _ of the wood-
piece surface. sanding by
the upper- hand-sand' Q flat sanding
_.,.''- L". and drill block and used on your After you glue and damp end stretchers (C)to the
upper stretchers ,check for square by measuring
~4" pikx -- msdlJer assembly powersand _ diagonally ee:n corners.
[Photo leg to the
stretri; =0;- manner,
attad; -=-:c- l..""1I"~-',;;;:::Ejr.::!E~.-.-iIOe (B/C/E/F)
and -"'-~ ===z=::::r creatiVl! ll1i1b plugs
~rrr"..,....or buy them, plugs
screws. To add a 3-D
P l on plugs, like the
top m b9' es.) These also hide
. about 1" hole .
•••••• 3]. After the with the wood
top to size species that contrasts
~_ ...••
_ouing wood. Store-
provide a slight color
this project, while
greater contrast.
with the plug grain
the leg (center) for
surrounding wood. For
the plug with the grain
).
woodmag<m::.ou:= 99
STARTER PROJECTS
©
D~ ,,-- D~ ...
~
Use the countersunk shank holes in the leg (G/H/I) Clamp a scrap block to the leg (G/H/I) to prevent To avoid marring the leg (G/H/I) surfa old a
to position pilot holes in the upper-stretcher tear-out while drilling the counterbore over the scrap of cardboard beside each plug before sawing
assembly (A/C/D). edge of the leg. it nearly flush.
5 sand the top and l?ase to 220 grit and

ease the edges. Also, sand a slight
chamfer on the bottoms of the legs to keep
6 screw a figure-8 tabletop fastener to
the top of each leg and lay the top (J)
upside down on your workbench. Center
Materials list
Part T
FINISHED SIZE
W L Mati. Qty,
A* upper stretchers 14" 111ft 34--" C 4
them from snagging carpets and rugs. the base on the top and drill pilot holes
Apply a coat of boiled linseed oil to all into the top for each figure-8 fastener.
8* lower stretchers 14" 111" ~-=" C 2
C* end stretchers 14" 111" 7?p." C 6

parts and allow it to dry'. Then lightly sand Then screw the base to the top. Now move
with a 320-grit sponge, remove the dust your new table to a hallway, where it will
D* stiles 14" 111" ::1"=" C 4
with a vacuum and soft cloth, and apply a greet your guests .• E* shelf trim %11 y,," r: c 4
second coat of oil. Safety note: Oil-soaked F* shelves 14" 12" r: CP
G* outer legs %11 2" 3" C 4

rags can spontaneously combust when wad- Produced by Bob Wilson with Jeff Mertz
H* inner legs %" 1y,," 31" C 4
ded up and discarded. Instead, first lay them Project design: Kevin Boyle
Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson 1* fillers %11. 111" 31" 4
flat to dry. C
J* top %11 14" 48" EC
*Partsinitiallycut oversize.Seethe instruclioffi.
Materials key: C-cherry, CP-cherry pIy\~ EC-

edge-glued cherry.
Supplies: #8x1)4"flathead wood screws figure-8
tabletop fasteners (4).
Bits: Vi'straight router bit, 14"Forstnabit
Sources
Self-centering plug cutter: %" plug cutter no.
31115,$13,Rockier,800-279-4441, rodder.com.
Plugs: Ya" oak button plugs no. 20503, $4for a package
of 50,and Ya" oak plugs no. 20842, $4.50for a package of
50, Rockier.Alsoavailable at many home centers.
I
I
~~~~-="~~=~=====~~===!J
%x 5'12x 48" Cherry (2 bd. ft.) (3 needed)
FREE VIDEOS
I
I 1\ I ~ Gluing and sanding a flat panel:
I I,\ :' woodmagazine.com/panels
i r i\ I ~ Tablesaw ripping fundamentals:

I' ' woodmagazine.com/tsripping
I I \ I·
I' ,
®! J
i
1\ j
, ' I
RELATED ARTICLE
~ 6 Steps to Perfect Plugs:
\\J
%
® i I(
x 24 x 48" Cherry plywood
\
woodmagazine.com/perfectplugs

REFERENCE GUIDE . .
Drilling accessories
Must-Have Screws Specialty Screws for faster fastening
FLATHEAD TRADITIONAL WOOD SCREW
Today's flathead The tapered shaft of a Whether you use tradi 'o~- or
screws use square and traditional wood screw modern screws, today's ersink/
Torx/star driver bits requires drilling one counterbores drill a pilot - e, shank
instead of just Phillips hole for the shank, a hole, and countersink ~ 0 ce.
drives. Most have smaller pilot hole for the
straight shafts with threads, as well as a FOR TRADITIONAL
deep threads, and countersink. Or use a WOOD SCREWS
enough unthreaded tapered bit, shown at ;. Tapered drill bits with movable
shank to help the far right, to drill all three countersinks match a rra ional
head pull the top at once. Keep these screw's shape and lengt-
workpiece tight screws handy for
against the lower restoring or re-creating
piece. Some have antiques. To drive brass
serrated threads or screws, drill pilot holes,
augering grooves at and cut the wood fibers
the tip (detail) to cut for the threads by 'k
through wood fibers. driving and removing a
around the pilot hole steel screw of the same
for easier driving. size. Then drive the
brass screw.
PANHEAD WASHER-HEAD
Use panhead, or sheet- The wide, flat underside
metal, screws to attach of the washer-head
hold-downs and other jig screw disperses force
fixtures plus project over a larger area than
hardware such as drawer even a panhead screw.
slides. The threads extend Use #10 versions up to
up to the head. When 3" long to hang
joining two pieces of cabinets. For attaching FOR MODERN SCREWS
hardwood, you may need drawer fronts or Use a countersink/cou:nterbore
an oversize shank hole in the mounting wooden combination sized s: ~ =- =6, #8,
top piece to keep the drawer and door pulls, or #10 screws. To irt-- ~-E ilot-
threads from pushing pieces versions with extra- hole depth to the s , just
apart. A flat-top panhead (or wide washer heads let shorten or extend
"pocket-hole screw," named you make minor Counterbore diame
for its primary use) comes adjustments within an or W' for standard w,-,,-,,-,.=-.
with fine threads for oversize shank hole.
hardwoods, or coarse
threads for softwoods.
STAINLESS STEEL CABINET-CONNECTING

Stainless steel resists Developed in Europe
Countersink
corrosion and discoloration during the 1970s as the
on outdoor projects. Look Confirmat screw, these Counterbore
for "300 series" steel, with fasteners grip medium-
18 percent chromium and density fiberboard (MDF)
8 percent nickel, that resists or particleboard without
corrosion under normal splitting it. The 7x50mm
circumstances. A 316 size handles most %"
stainless adds molybdenum' materials. A stepped
for greater protection pilot-hole bit made for
against salt-air corrosion. these screws drills a
An auger point doesn't wider hole for the shank
eliminate the need for pilot plus a countersink. When tersink/
holes, but makes driving appearance matters, hide ey,
the screw easier. Some the PoziDrive screwheads 800-871-8158, lee'. =:.co ;
types have colored heads to (see Common drive or McFeely's, 800-3-- -:;137,
blend better with deck types, next page) with mcfeelys.com .••
boards or trim. plastic caps.
104 Get Started tn ""'oodworking

and Panhead Screw Specs at a Glance
Flathead Screws Panhead Screws
4 6 8 10 12 14 4 6 8 10 12
~2" %2" 0/,6" ¥a" 2~4"
Pil
%4"
•
~4"
• • •
%" %4"
~
%2"
•
•• •
~4" %" %4" %2"
•
Oi Y,6" %2" ~4" %" %4" %2" ~4" %" %4"
\II
• • • • • • • •• •
#0 #1 #2 #3 #0 #2 #2 #2 #3
#1 #'1- #2 #3 #1 #2 #2 #3 #3
* Sha:- -n:::'31;o-===,''''!!!!!II=!!for today's screws. Ifthe screw needs to
mmon DriveTypes pendable to Difficult

•• 1Et1lil ••.•• slippage Someslipl-""~~_ ,••.••
~.applications You're in for slippage
§~E~~==$aror
drive (Robertson)
design is
square-
o o
Phillips Slotted
Because of these drives, woodworkers have
long experienced screwdrivers jumping
offlathead and loose from screwheads, a condition
~ commonly known as earn-out.
REFERENCE GUIDE
Twist
drill bit I
DRILL-PRESS SPEED CHART
Recommended operating speeds (RPM)
I
i Softwood Hardwood
Accessory Acrylic Brass Aluminum Steel Notes
(Pine) (Hard Maple)
~ I
Twist drill bits*
V,6" - 3A6 11
3000 3000 2500 3000 3000 3000 Lubricate bit with oil 'men cutting
r= Black & Decker lfil" - 3/s" 3000 1500 2000 1200 2500 1000 steel Ys' or thicker.
Bullet pilot- 'l16" - 5/a ll
1500 750 1500 750 1500 600 Use center punch on all holes to
point bit I lYi6" - 111 750 500 NR 400 i 1000 350 prevent drill from wandering.
11
II
W [] Black & Decker Bullet pilot-point
Ye"- 3;\6"
Y4 3/8
V2"
11
-
11
3000
3000
3000
bits*
3000
3000
1500
3000
2400
1600
2000
1500
1500
1500
1000
750
3000 Good all-around bit
2QGtl Cuts more quickly ihan a brad-
1200 point and a twist dri .
IV Brad-point bits*
Vall
V!1 1A."
1800 1200 1500 NR NR NR
1800 1000 1500 NR NR NR
~ %" 1800 750 1500 NR NR NR
V2 11
1800 750 1000 NR NR NR Raise smaller bits ofulrI to clear
~ 5/a ll
1800 500 750 NR NR NR shavings and p ~ eat buildup.
Brad-point bit 3,411
1400 250 750 NR NR NR
11
7/8 1200 250 500 NR NR NR
~ 1" 1000 250 250 NR NR NR
Forstner bits
~ 1,4" -3/S" 2400 700 NR NR NR NR Raise v.."-%" b" ::=-- ill clear shavings
~ V2" - 5/8" 2400 500 250 NR NR NR and prevent heat ;
3A 1"
II
- 1500 500 250 NR NR NR Make several - u ges with larger
""
"=;' 1Ye"-1v.."
1%"-2"
1000
500
250
250
250
NR
NR
NR
NR
NR
NR
NR
-
bits; allow bit to .. • een passes.
Glass-and-tile bits (Listed speeds are for glass and tile - not softwood.)
rp
Forstner bit Ya" 750 NR NR NR NR NR
Wear safety g _~.o&JsG.in drill press
I 31i6" 600 NR NR NR NR NR
1,4" only. Do not ap;:;.y. ~ive pressure.
500 NR NR NR NR NR
Lubricate \' . - .- il drilling.
511611 400 NR NR NR NR NR
Reduce quill ;n~;:-i~en bit tip
3/S11 350 NR NR NR NR NR
,~..a V2" 200 NR NR NR NR NR
emerges from -
~VI Holesaws*
Do not use w:;:; '"= -.aluminum
1" - 1%" 500 350 NR 250 250 NR thicker than ~._
15/8"- 2" 500 250 NR 150 250 NR
Glass-and-
2Ye" - 2%" 250-500 NR NR 150 250 NR Avoid dense ~ .- such as hard
tile bit
,.
maple.
MUlti-spur bits*
Smaller sizes ~ ~~Ie;
2Ye" - 4" 250 250 NR NR NR NR use Forstne ;:-=--
Spade bits*
=
1
V4" - Y2 11
2000 1500 NR NR NR NR
Clampwo -----
- -
- rove quality
5/a" - 1" 1750 1500 NR NR NR NR
of hole.
I" 1Ye"-1%" 1500 1000 NR NR NR NR
- Multi-
spur
bit
- - 9
n~
c::<i ~
I; Circle
Polishing wheel ~ ~
1',
~l
cutter
~ V ~ ~p
~ Holesaw ~
106 Get Sta:rta:: - 9

Noles
Spade bit
Ideal for deep holes and end-grain drilling.
Drill one side, flip material over, place Spade bit

center bit in its hole, and resume cut. with spurs
Raise and lower frequently for quicker Stanley

cutting.
Powerbore bit
Clear twist drill often.
Clear bit often to prevent heat buildup.
Cut to full depth so bit chamfers plug. Shear-cutting

countersink '
750 1500 750 NR NR NR Avoid load-up and overheating.

500 750 750 NR NR NR
1750 1750 1750 NR NR NR Decrease air pressure for fine contours.
750 500 500 500 NR NR Adhesive-backed discs work best.
Countersink
1500 1500 1500 1500 2000 NR Use light pressure.
2000 2000 2000 2000 2000 2400 Hold work firmly.
NR NR NR NR NR 3000 Use 6" or smaller wheel.
R Not recommended * Back material to prevent chip-out. Always wear a face shield for optimum protection.
Countersink
otes
• Recommendations are based on visual and-tactile tests under shop conditions. screw-pilot bit
• Drilling faster than recommended can cause overheating.
• Speeds slower than those recommended may cause poor-quality holes.
• All testing done on face grain. Reduce speed when drilling into end grain.
• Speeds based on new bits from the factory. !
Plug
cutter
woodmagazine.com 107
I'
: REFERENCE GUIDE
WOOD . guide to choosing and a~Plying clear finishes
FINISH TYPE BEST USE

...-0>
sand
bciled
_01 BOILED Furniture and other interior projects where
5 6 12 saturated
CJ LINSEED OIL protection against water and wear isn't a concern.
coats hours hours
through
sanding2
rag
Z As an additive to other finishes (see comments). 220 grit
~ sand
Et TEAK OIL Exterior wood projects except decks. 4 4 6 through saturated brush or
I- coats hours hours 220 grit sanding2 rag
W
Z sand
W OIUVARNISH Furniture and other interior projects where 3-4 4 6 through saturated brush or
11. BLEND protection against water and wear isn't a concern. coats hours hours sanding2 rag
220 grit
WIPE-ON sand
All interior wood, including tabletops and cabinets. 4-5 3 4 through saturated rag
POLYURETHANE coats hours hours 220 grit sanding2
sand
All interior wood, including tabletops and cabinets. 3 3 8 through 220 grit brush or
coats hours hours 150 grit spray
sand
All interior wood, including tabletops and cabinets. 3-4 1 2 through 220 grit brush or
coats hour hours 150 grit spray
Furniture and other interior projects. Because of sand

4-5 20 30 rag, brush.
SHELLAC fast drying time, shellac is a traditional favorite of
coats minutes minutes
through 320 grit
or spray
woodturners. 220 grit
CJ
z
-:E LACQUER~ Furniture and other interior projects.
3-4
coats
20 30
minutes minutes
sand
through
220 grit
320 grit brush or
spray
Et ~
0 sand
IL BAR FINISHI Countertops and other flat surfaces requiring a high 2-3 10
I 8 through none pour
:E 2-PART EPOXY degree of water and chemical protection. coats hours hours 150 grit
..I
u:: sand
SOLVENT-BASED All wood floors. 2-3 3 4 through 80 grit
app\. pacJ3
FLOOR FINISH coats hours hours 80 grit or brush
WATER-BASED sand
3-4 1 2 through app\. pacJ3
All wood floors. 80 grit
FLOOR FINISH coats hour hours 80 grit or brush
sand
Exterior wood projects except decks. 2-3 4 6 through 150 grit brush or
coats hours hours 100 grit spray
sand
WATER-BASED Exterior wood projects except decks.
3 1 2-3 through 150 grit brush or
SPAR VARNIS.H coats hour hours 100 grit spray
1 Variables include temperature and humidity. 4 (E+) Excellent plus- Toughest protection against damage.
2 After first coat dries, apply finish generously. Then wet-sand with 4/0 steel wool, 320·grit wet-dry (E) Excellent· High degree of resistance to damage.
'sandpaper, or an abrasive pad such as Scotchbrite. Wipe off the slurry with a rag. (G) Good· Acceptable protection against damage.
3 8"· to 12"·wide application pad. Lamb's-wool pad recommended for solvent-based floor coating; (F) Fair· little protection against damage.
synthetic material recommended for water-based coating. (P) Poor- Damaged easily.

r{~;'': ~I: I
. .. ....
I I
2:~~"" ••.•.• ••••
Q~ ~I.IJ I.IJ I.IJ
:E ;:: ,.. (;.:) ~ (;.:) it)'
f:Es:$
::l"'t"'t ::2:
{:;! t:z:;!
""'2:
2:;! :5$
...•. e
..•..
~
i~Q. (;.:)'"
~~ ~~ ~~ ~~ ~ "'"
:EQ.jE
q ,.. CI)
II:
~I.IJ
II:
Q'"
CI)
II:
~I.IJ
'" II: cS B COMMENTS
Low sheen. Often mixed with varnish and mineral spirits for a custom wipe-on finish
40°F P F P E mineral spirits $ or as the first coat to film-forming finishes. Easy to apply, but periodic maintenance is
recommended. Excels in accenting grain on highly figured pieces.
Formulated for oily, dark woods including teak, rosewood, and mahogany. Used in
50°F P E G E mineral spirits $$ many marine (boat) applications above the waterline. Low sheen. Requires periodic
maintenance. May contain UV and mildewcide inhibitors.
Also known as Danish oil. Easy to apply. Satin sheen. Also available in colors.
50°F P G G E mineral spirits $ With additional coats, finish can be built up. Imparts a natural look and feel to wood
surfaces.
Available in gloss and satin sheens. Thinned-down version of polyurethane. Offers

40°F F G E G mineral spirits $$ better protection than penetrating finishes, but not as much as standard polyurethane.
Easy to apply in thin coats that won't run or sag.
Available in three sheens (gloss, semigloss, and satin). Adds a warm, amber tone to
50°F E E E F mineral spirits $$$ wood. Because of high protection qualities, this is one of the most popular indoor
finishes. Exterior grade also available.
Available in three sheens (gloss, semigloss, satin). Final appearance is crystal clear;
WF E G F G water $$$$ will not yellow over time. You can complete a project in one day. To avoid water
raising grain, wipe bare wood with a damp rag, then sand off fuzz. Don't prepare
projects with steel wool; water in finish will rust steel fibers left on surface.
Pre-mixed (about 14 percent solid material) has 6-month shelf life. Also available as
60°F F F P E alcohol $ flakes so you can blend your own consistency. Dewaxed shellac used as a sealer or
first coat for film-forming finishes. Two color choices: clear (blonde), amber (orange).
Available in three sheens (gloss, semigloss, and satin). Also protects metals.
60°F F G G E lacquer thinner $ Apply in a well-ventilated area. Cures rapidly so you can complete a project in one
day. Multiple coats create the appearance of a deep finish.
65°F E+ E+ E+ P xylene $$$$$ Only available in high gloss. Must apply on level surface. Thickest of all the finishes.
F $$$$ Available in three sheens (gloss, semigloss, and satin). Imparts a warm, amber
65°F E+ E+ E+ mineral spirits appearance to wood surfaces. Not appropriate for vertical surfaces.
$$$$$ Available in three sheens (gloss, semigloss, and satin). Dries crystal-clear. Fast dry
65°F E+ E G :~ F water
time allows you to finish a floor in one day. Not appropriate for vertical surfaces.
Available in three sheens (gloss, semigloss, and satin). Not designed for interior use.
60°F G E+ E G mineral spirits $$$$$ Some contain UV and mildewcide inhibitors. Formulated to remain flexible in a range
~ of temperatures. Requires periodic maintenance.
Available in three sheens (gloss, semigloss, and satin). Not designed for interior use.
60°F E E G F water $$$$$ Dries crystal clear. Easier cleanup than solvent spar varnish. Some contain UV and
mildewcide inhibitors. Formulated to remain flexible in a range of temperatures.
To avoid water raising grain, wipe bare wood with a damp rag, then sand off fuzz.
5 (E+) Excellent Plus - Least effort to repair. Blemishes may be spot-finished. Sand top coat and apply new finish. Rag disposal The rags you use to apply or remove oil and oillvarnish blend finishes are a
(E) Excellent - Spot repairs a challenge, but overall effort doesn't require removal of existing finish. serious fire hazard because they will spontaneously combust (catch fire) under certain
(G) Good - Sand and refinish. circumstances. The reason they ignite is because they heat up as they cure during the
(F) Fair - May require sanding or stripping of existing finish. drying process. The recommended disposal method is to put all used rags into a water-filled
(P) Poor - Damaged finish 'difficult to remove. metal container, seal the lid, and dispose of the container properly. It is important to
6 Relative cost per ounce . One dollar sign ($) represents least expensive; $$$$$ is the most expensive per ounce. remember that all of these products are perfectly safe when applied and disposed of properly.
woodma.9azine.coni 111
REFERENCE GUIDE
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%4 .0781 1.984 3Y'64 .5781 14.684
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1'64 .1094 2.778 3%4 .6094 15.478
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¥16 .1875 4.763 1Yi6 .6875 17.463
1%4 .2031 5.159 4%4 .7031 17.859
Y'32 .2188 5.556 2%2 .7188 18.256
1%4 .2344 5.953 4Y'64 .7344 18.653
}4 .2500 6.350 % .7500 19.050
1Y'64 .2656 6.747 4%4 .7656 19.447
%2 .2813 7.144 2%2 .7813 19.844
'1%4 .2969 7.541 5Ye4 .7969 20.241
0/16 .3125 7.938 1¥16 .8125 20.638
2Ye4 .3281 8.334 5%4 .8281 21.034
1Y32 .3438 8.731 2Y'32 .8438 21.431
2%4 .3594 9.128 5%4 .8594 21.828
% .3750 9.525 Y'6 .875.0 22.225
2%4 .3906 9.922 5Y'64 .8906 22.622
1%2 .4063 10.319 2%2 .9063 23.019
21'64 .4219 10.716 5%4 .9219 23.416
116. .4375 11.113 10/16 .9375 23.813
2%4 .4531 11.509 6Ye4 .9531 24.209

...
1%2 .4688 11.906 3Y32 .9688 24.606
3Ye4 .4844 12.303 6%4 .9844 25.003
~ .5000 12.700 1.0000 25.400

Get Started in Woodworking

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BUILD IT YOURSELF!

112 PAGES OF EXPERT GUIDANCE

- 2 .•."'- 14263 -........3 -II

DEPUTY EDITOR CRAIG RUEGSEGGER

PUBLICATION EDITOR KERRYGIBSON

ART DIRECTOR KARL EHLERS

PUBLICATION ART DIRECTOR KIM HOPKINS

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER LUCAS PETERS

SENIOR DESIGN EDITOR KEVIN BOYlE

DESIGN EDITOR JOHN OLSON

TOOLS EDITOR BOB HUNTER

GENERAL·INTEREST EDITOR NATEGRANZOW

ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT SHERYL MUNYON

CONTRIBUTING CRAFTSMEN JIM HEAVEY,BRIANSIMMONS, MARKLANE,

Welcome to VICE PRESIDENT

Woodworking ADVERTISING SALES REPRESENTATIVE

BUSINESS MANAGER DARRENTOLLEFSONCONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR LIZBREDESON

had a dad, granddad, uncle, or neighbor who patiently showed VICEPRESIDENTS

For woodworking advice: Postyourquestionsat woodmagazine.(omlforums. Ordropan e-mailto

6 Wood Structure and Appearance

10 lingo for Buying Lumber

16 Selecting Sheet Goods

22 Top Buys in 6 Power Tools

Tools, Skills, and Tips

33 How to Cut a Straight Edge

42 Precisely How Precise? 54 Save Time with Pocket Holes

56 Glue Up Perfect Panels

Wipe Out Excess Glue

2 Get Started in Woodworking

64 Start of a Great Finish

106 Drill-Press Guide

108 Choosing and Using

110 Choosing and Applying

112 Fraction, Decimal, and

Warps and size changes

4 Get Started in Woodworking

(Generates new growth.

Peel open a log, and you'll

6 Get Started in Woodworking

Hardwood or soft: it depends on cell structure

Hardwood and softwood:

W Carvers love the softness of bass-

Hardwood grade school

BasicYield for FAS

I ~aSiCYield for No.2 COnUnon \' 12' 7_' ~ __ ~"_+_: I

12 Get Started in Woodworking

Written with Raymond L. Wilber

For more information

How cell orientation influences

If ripping cuts require a lot of power, why do they The problem:

pieces to size, removing

14 Get Started in Woodworking

Unfortunately, not all cuts fall neatly The problem:

Boring holes in wood presents The problem:

16 Get Started in Woodworking

Sheet Goods Selector: Match the Product to the Project,

18 Get Started in Woodworking

20 Get Started in Woodworking

Don't wait until you can

variety of great-looking projects, such as 40-tooth, carbide-tipped blade for