ACHIEVE THE PERFECT FIT  Draw a third horizontal line a little above

BUST ADJUSTMENTS the hem between Line 1 and the centre front
BACK ADJUSTMENTS
of the pattern. Some patterns will come with an adjustment line for
First, you need to work out how much narrow or broad back drawn on. If your pattern doesn’t,
additional space you require around the bust or  Cut along Line 1 from the hem to the
armhole, making sure not to cut all the way you can easily do this yourself.
what you’d like to remove. Here is a helpful chart
to work out the amount: through the armhole. Leave a hinge so you
NARROW BACK (FIGS A-C)
can pivot the paper. The point of the dart has
Small bust Full bust now swung away from its original position. B C
example example A
 Cut through the line in the middle of the
Full bust 33” 38” dart, again leave a little hinge at the tip of the
measurement dart so you can pivot.
High bust 32” 35” Line up the cut edges of Line 1 so they’ve
measurement been spread apart by the amount of your FBA.
Difference 1” 3” The edges should be parallel. You’ll notice
that your dart has now spread apart too and
Adjustment 1/2” SBA = 11/2” FBA
become bigger.
half the = half the
difference difference
The lower edge of your hem no longer
meets at the bottom, as the side that has been
FULL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIGS A-D)  Draw a vertical line down from the shoulder, 3cm
adjusted is now longer. Cut the third line you
from the armhole to just below the bottom of the
 Lay the tissue pattern against yourself to drew, and spread apart until your hem is level.
armhole. Draw a second line at a right angle from
establish where your bust point is. Mark onto Fill in the spaces created with tracing this point.
the pattern with a cross. paper, and stick into place.
 Cut along the two lines, and slide the armhole
 Using a ruler and pencil, draw a vertical line
SMALL BUST ADJUSTMENT (FIG E) side overlapping the paper. Stick in place. A small
from the marked point to the hem. Make sure
 Draw in the lines as per an FBA adjustment. ¼” adjustment is often enough. Play around with this
the line is parallel to the grainline on the pattern.
This is essentially the same process in reverse. amount as you develop your fitting skills.
 From this line, draw a second line up towards
 Swing the darted side of the pattern across  Use a ruler and pencil to true up and re-draw the
the armhole, hitting the lower third of the
the other side, by the desired SBA amount. side seam and shoulder seam. Because we have only
armhole. Together, these lines are called Line 1.
adjusted the upper back, the fit should remain the
 Draw a second line horizontally through  The lower edge of the hem no longer meets
same around the waist. (See the orange lines on Fig B.)
the middle of the bust dart, meeting Line 1 at at the bottom, as the side that has been
adjusted is now shorter. Cut the third line you  You’ll now need to make the front shoulder width
the bust point.
drew, and overlap until your hem is level. a little shorter. Line up the notches on the shoulder
ensuring sure the neckline is lined up. The front width
A B C D E
will be a little longer than the newly adjusted back
shoulder. Draw a new, narrower line from the back
around the front, trimming a little of the front armhole
1/3
1 1 1
2 2 away. Don’t forget to make sure your new curved line is
apex

2
smooth at the shoulder.
lap

3 3 BROAD BACK ADJUSTMENT (FIGS D AND E)

3

D E

ADJUSTING FOR HEIGHT A

SHORTEN A PATTERN (FIG A)

Working at 90˚ to the grain, make corresponding tucks across the front
and back bodice, at bust and below armhole. Make corresponding tucks
across the front and back of skirt below the hips. For sleeves, shorten above
and below the elbow, avoiding the sleeve head curve.
LENGTHEN A PATTERN (FIG B)  Start in the same way as a narrow back adjustment
Working at 90˚ to the grain, cut across the front and back bodice, at drawing the two lines and cutting along them.
bust and below armhole. Cut across the front and back of skirt below  Instead of overlapping the cut pattern pieces, spread
the hips. For sleeves, cut above and below the elbow, avoiding the them. As before there are no hard and fast rules, but with
sleeve head curve. Spread the pattern pieces as required and fill the a broad back a ¼-½” adjustment is about right. Fill in the
spaces with scrap paper. B
space with some tracing paper and stick together.
 Use a ruler and a pencil to true up and re-draw
BELOW THE HIP ADJUSTMENTS (FIG A)
A
the side seam and shoulder seam. (See the orange lines
To decrease the width, make a graduated on Fig D.)
tuck from the waist to the hem, tapering
to nothing at the waist, indicated by the  This time you’ll need to make the front shoulder a
dotted line. little longer. As with the narrow adjustment, line up
the shoulder seams, ensuring the neckline is aligned.
To increase the width, cut the pattern piece Draw a curved line from the back shoulder down
through the waist to the hem, place over towards the front armhole, adding a sliver to the front
scrap paper and spread to the required size. shoulder and armhole. Check that you’ve drawn a
smooth line over the shoulder.