Manual PV Modification

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The document discusses modifying power valve control boxes to change the start and end RPMs at which the power valve opens to optimize engine performance. It also mentions the possibility of using a fully programmable power valve controller.

The power valve control boxes from 1983-1989 can be modified by cutting or adding bridges on the PCB to change the binary code that controls the start, end, and opening angle RPMs. A DIP switch can also be soldered to the IC pins for more adjustable control.

Modifying the power valve actuation RPMs, especially increasing the end RPM closer to the pipe's peak RPM, can significantly improve the engine's torque and power curves by better matching the power valve operation to the exhaust system. However, the opening angle can also affect performance.

Power Valve modification

by M. Kieltsch

The PV actuation rpms have huge impact on the engine characteristic and performance.

As a rule of thumb for RZ350 engines I found that a fully open valve should occur some few
hundred rpm before peak performance rpm.
Depending on your state of tune and combination of stock parts that's often not the case with
stock PV control boxes. Worst example is the German 1WW (UK F2 model) box that opens
fully at 10.000 combined with a pipe peaking at 8500-9000.

The possible result of modifying the start/end rpm of your control box depends of how
good/bad the stock box fits to your engine.

Measured dyno charts before/after on stock RZ engines look like this:

Dyno Marco Böhmer ( http://www.sonic-speed.net/ ), Stock 1WW vs. BDK Curve 14

Dyno Galerna Taldea ( http://www.galernataldea.com/) (programmable PV: Zeeltronic PPV)


Suitable PV boxes for mods:
The separate PV control boxes of the years 1983-1989 all have that huge IC that has the rpms
& angle coded via bridges on the PCB.
The 31K box from 83/84 is not that comfortable to modify as it has a layer of clear coat on the
back of the PCB that is hard to remove. (That's the thick case on the left)
All the later boxes (case on the right) have a 2-3 mm soft transparent coat that is easy to strip
off.

Yamaha PV boxes: left: 31K, right: later RD's, RD500, TZR250

You can do an eBay search for TZR250, RD350YPVS, RD500. They're all electrically
compatible but just have different connectors (some have slightly different cable colors).

Conversion:

On the back side of the PCB you can see the pins of the main IC.
It has 12 pins that are numbered from left to right.

Whether a bridge is active or not can be determined with the protruding wire ends in the 2'nd
and 3'rd row (row 1 = top row of pins)
If there is a wire it means “active” (= 1), No wire means “inactive” (= 0)

31K: (Bridges at 1,2,3,7 and 11)


1WW: (Bridges at 2,3,5 and 11)

You can change a 1 into a 0 if you cut the


bridges at one of the two indicated locations.
Use a Dremel and interrupt the copper path on
the PCB.

To turn a 0 into a 1 I solder a piece of wire as


shown in the pic. The important detail is that
“ground” (the wide path in the middle) is
connected to the IC pin in the 1'st row.

The famous BDK PV chart is referring to the pins 1 to 12 on the main IC.
Left column = pin nr.
Green = bridge active
Empty (white) = remove bridge

Source: http://www.bdkraceeng.co.uk/
If you need that a bit more versatile, you can use a measurement from Stefan Rempfer
(Germany).

He used a 12 pin DIP switch soldered to the IC pins and measured what the pins actually
changed.
At the end he found that it's a binary representation of three 4-bit numbers (i.e. 0-15).
Pin 1-4 controls the start rpm, pin 5-8 the end rpm and pin 9-12 the opening angle of the
valve.

PV-Box 1WW converted to DIP-switch.

This was his result for each of the 3 4-pin blocks:

Bridge 1 Bridge 2 Bridge 3 Bridge 4 Value Start-rpm End-rpm Angle


0 0 0 0 0 7486 10457 30,6
1 0 0 0 1 7230 10204 31,6
0 1 0 0 2 6975 9951 32,7
1 1 0 0 3 6720 9699 33,8
0 0 1 0 4 6465 9446 34,9
1 0 1 0 5 6209 9193 35,9
0 1 1 0 6 5954 8940 37,0
1 1 1 0 7 5699 8687 38,1
0 0 0 1 8 5444 8435 39,2
1 0 0 1 9 5188 8182 40,2
0 1 0 1 10 4933 7929 41,3
1 1 0 1 11 4678 7676 42,4
0 0 1 1 12 4423 7424 43,5
1 0 1 1 13 4167 7171 44,5
0 1 1 1 14 3912 6918 45,6
1 1 1 1 15 3657 6665 46,7
Binary/Decimal conversion table
11000
10000
9000
8000
7000
6000 Start-Drehzahl
5000 End-Drehzahl
4000
3000
2000
1000
0
0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

Graph for start/end rpm

If you cross check that to the BDK table, you get good matches. For example the start rpm
(pin 1-4) of the first few columns is a 1-1-1-0 (a 7 in decimal). That gives us a 5700 according
to the Rempfer measurement and some 5400-5850 rpm according to BDK.

For the TZR125 and 250 the end-rpm is listed with 0-1-0-0 (a decimal 2). According to
Rempfer that's 9951 rpm, according to BDK 9900 or 10050.

As you see this both correlates within some measurement and also individual PV box
tolerances and that's the reason why both measurements are not 100% identical.
I have a designated YPVS tester at home and checked the Rempfer table with an own DIP
converted box. So I'm able confirm that table with my own measurement.

Practical experiences:

– Solder with caution and let it cool down during your work.
The IC does not like huge amounts of heat and I already destroyed one in trying a DIP
conversion.
– The F2 (German 1WW) pipes have a peak rpm of 8500-9000 rpm (depending on the
cylinders used). The most successful end rpms used were in the range of 8200 – 8500.
– The cigar-style 31K pipes have a higher peak. Here we used end rpms of around 8500-
9000 rpm.
– The RD500 opens MUCH too early.
With stock pipes you benefit from a higher end rpm in the 9-10000 rpm range.
When using for example JL pipes I found that the “RD500 Boulter” setting from BDK
was very beneficial to cure the giant midrange dip in the performance curve. That
would be a start rpm of 7500 and an end rpm of 10.500.
– On the TZR250 BDK reported a earlier opening to gain performance (9000 instead
stock 10000)
– If you use some unknown pipes on RZ based engines, I found that the end rpm should
be some few hundred less than the peak performance rpm. For my DIY pipes they
peaked at some 9300-9700 and thus I used PV end rpms of some 9000-9300.
– Personally I have not tested much with the opening angle. I have reports that there is a
noticeable effect.
In earlier applications I experimented with a deeper closing of the valve which was
beneficial for low end torque. On the other hand it caused undesired effects like partial
load bogging at low/mid rpm.

FAQ's:

– Is a fully programmable box worth the extra money ? (Ignitech STPS or Zeeltronic
PPV, or even a CDI/PV combo-box)
In any case yes, because the form of the opening curve can influence the engine
characteristic very much. Adding ignition advance will enhance performance even
more.
You just need to be able to read a wiring diagram, solder cables and use a PC software
to program the curves.
– If you fix the PV to fully open; is there a difference in peak performance compared to
optimized PV start/end rpms ? Theoretically the peak HP should not be affected ?
Funnily the answer is yes. In several measurements and simulations you can see an
increased peak performance with optimized PV actuation rpm's even after the PV is
already fully open.
I cannot explain that effect, but it is existing!

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