Schilling Quality Presentation

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Insufficient understanding

of the mechanisms
affecting quality coffee
and
measuring quality

Turning coffee into wine


The flow
„ Expose the paradigm
„ Describe what we know about cup quality
„ Give you cup quality literature review draft
„ Explain why the paradigm exists
„ Discuss the need for better cup quality
evaluation methods
„ Discuss potential for huge cup quality
improvements
„ Explain why and how coffee will become the
new ‘wine’
Specialty coffee and
coffee science
disconnect
Coffee Cup Quality

The main specialty coffee market


driver
The Paradigm

„ Despite the market’s ‘value’, precious


little is known about coffee cup quality
– And even less in the public domain
What do we really know?

„ There is variability for coffee cup quality


– Coffees do taste different
„ High altitude coffee tastes different than low
altitude coffee
„ Some varieties give different cup characteristics
„ The country and region seem to influence the
cup
„ The digestive tracts of cats don’t seem to add
any value to the cup
„ Etc. etc....zzzzzzz
Coffee quality research
literature review
Based on searching global scientific
databases over time and space for
research that has something/anything to
do with...

Coffee Cup Quality


Why the extreme paucity ?
„ Young industry: 15-20 years old
„ Coffee cup quality variability exists at ORIGIN
– Once the bean has been picked...not much left
„ Origin research has mainly focused on yield and
disease resistance improvement...not cup quality
„ Most origin research infrastructures and capacities
are challenged with a lack of necessary human and
budgetary resources
„ Coffee consuming countries have disparate
specialty industries: not organized
Coffee Cup Quality Evaluation
“If you’re going to improve it, you got to be able to measure it”

Sensory Bio-tech lab

„ SCAA method „ NIRS


„ CoE method „ GC
„ ICO standards „ Lab measurements of
„ “Q” method known ‘quality’ precursor
„ Consumer panels compounds
– Chlorogenic acid
„ Expert panels
– Citric acid
„ Hundreds of ‘secret – pH
and/or private methods’ – Sucrose
The problem
„ Current sensory
methods are too
variable to use for
scientific purposes
„ Current hi-tech
methods are not well
correlated to sensory
methods
Can we really improve coffee cup
quality and take to the level of the
wine industry’s level of
differentiation?
The Geisha-Esmeralda Story is just one confirmation
The Geisha-Esmeralda Story
„ Ethiopian land race growing as an
accession in an arabica genetic collection
„ Picked up by a curious producer who takes
it to Panama, multiplies it and grows it out
„ One day, somebody separates it from the
others and tastes it
„ It blows the sensory evaluation scores off
the chart
Exploiting natural genetic variability

„ The Geisha is just ONE of thousands of land


races that are out there
„ Possibilities in cup quality differentiation are
almost limitless
„ The potential to push the quality envelope
beyond our wildest dreams is REAL
In addition to genetic variability...
„ Agronomy: effects of fertilizers, spacing,
exposure, pruning, mulching, etc....
„ Processing: effect of pulping methods,
soaking, strains of yeast in fermentation...
„ Storage: effects of packaging materials,
coffee seed research, gas treatments,
shelf life work...
„ Roasting and brewing research
Summary

There is an enormous potential to improve


cup quality.

Move over wine industry... You’re taking too


much of sensory show.

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