Beauty Guide Skin Care PDF

BEAUTY GUIDE
Skin care
First Edition
V1.12.10
Introduction
No one can deny that to be professional community pharmacist we must be able to deal with any customer
need in a professional manner and this require core competencies like knowledge , skills and attitude.
The knowledge represent the pushing power to us and skills represent the steering force to our knowledge
to achieve our goal and the attitude represent( our welling to do) make harmony between our knowledge
and skills. We need to gain all these capabilities to reach peak performance at the field of community
pharmacy to be really pioneers in helping communities live a healthier and more beautiful life and
Regarding to this bright vision our company insist on establishing training and development department .
All of us know that community pharmacists area of concern mainly related to pharma , non pharma and
administrative knowledge beside selling skills and people skills
We will deal with non pharma part at this beauty guide
unfortunately we neither study beauty knowledge at our faculty nor practice beauty care before engaging
NMC and suddenly we face a huge market of beauty care products and we must be professional at these
products .from here we realize the importance of beginning of non pharma category
How to use this book ?

Beauty guide classified into several series. Each series will discuss certain beauty care topic .
regarding the following
 Beauty knowledge ( the basic knowledge of the topic )

 Product knowledge ( products related to that topic and available at NMC )
 Customer and patient education ( information we could say to the customer or the patient for
better management of case )
this series will discuss skin care
Training and development department 2

None pharma planogram
Non pharma category
Cosmeceuticals Cosmetics Health care Baby care Equpment
Skin care Hair care Foot care Lady care Hand care Body care Men care Oral care Nutration Diapers Accessories Necessary Wellfare
Hand Body odour Shaving

Wrinkle Hair loss Cracked heel Bust care Dental care Glucometers Epilators
moisturizer control machines
Corn and Body hair Body Shaving Blood

Whitening Oily hair Nail care Hair care
callus care Gingival care pressure
accessories accessories devices
meter
Make up Hand Physical birh

Peeling Dry hair Athletic foot Bath care Orthodentic Neubilizer Sterilizers
accessories accessories control
Foot Optical care Medical Dental care

Sun care Dandruff Intimate care Hand ageing
accessories appliance apparatus
Food
Cleansing Splitted hair Diabetic foot Nursing care supplement Scales
Varicose vein Hair styling Foot spa

Cellulite Fine hair
care
Stretch Damaged Hair Humdifiers

mark hair straightning
Moisturizati Senestive Hair nutration

on scalp
Hair
Acne
coloration

Cosmeceutical
s

 What are Cosmeceuticals ?
Cosmeceuticals represent a marriage between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
 Like cosmetics
they are topically applied to improve appearance.
 Like drugs
they contains ingredients that influence biological functions of the skin.
They represent the fastest growing segment of the natural personal care industry.
 Factors Affecting Selection Of The Proper Cosmeceutical product

 Ingredients.
 Producer’s reputation
 Costumers feedback..
 Pharmacists feedback.
 Dermatologists recommendations.
 Internet related Authenticated sites.

Cosmeceutical planogram
Cosmeceuticals
Skin care Hair care Foot care Lady care Hand care Body care Men care
Hand Body odour Shaving

Hair loss Cracked heel Bust care
moisturizer control machines
Routine steps Skin conditions
Oily hair Corn and callus Body hair care Nail care Body Shaving
accessories accessories
Cleansing Hyperpigmintation
Make up Hand Physical birh
Dry hair Athletic foot Bath care
accessories accessories control
Peeling Wrinkle
Foot
Dandruff Intimate care Hand ageing
accessories
Moisturization Cellulite
Splitted hair Diabetic foot Nursing care
Sun care Stretch mark

Varicose vein
Fine hair Hair styling
care
Acne
Damaged hair Hair straightning
Senestive scalp Hair nutration
Hair coloration

Skin care planogram
Skin care
Routine care Skin conditions
Moisturization Ageing
Exfoliation Cellulite
Acne

The skin
Definition:
The skin is the body's outer covering. It protects us against heat and light, injury, and infection. It regulates
body temperature and stores water, fat, and vitamin D. Weighing about 6 pounds, the skin is the body's
largest organ.
The skin Reflect :

 Age
 Heath
 Life style
 Image

Skin structure
 Skin consists of 3 layers
 Epidermis
 Dermis
 subcutaneous hypodermis
The outer most layers is stratum corneum which consists of dead cells and water .
Skin structure diagram

 Oily skin
tends to shiny with enlarged pores, and is prone to blackheads & blemishes. You might experience
some tightness.
 Dry skin
Tend to feels tight, especially after cleansing, & liable to have fine wrinkles, flaking & red patches.
In colored women, skin may appear ashy or dull from dead skin build-up.
 Combination/normal
This skin type has medium pores, a smooth & even texture, good circulation, healthy colour, may
tend toward dryness on the cheeks while being oily in the t-zone.
 Sensitive skin
tends to be thin, delicate with fine pores. It flushes easily, , frequently allergic & can be rashy.
Each person's skin is unique and is a natural combination of three factors:
1. Water content, which is responsible for the skin's suppleness and comfort.
2. Lipid content, which is responsible for nutrition and softness.
3. Level of sensitivity, which is responsible for the skin's resistance to and tolerance of
environmental factors.

Normal skin
 This skin type has medium pores ( invisible), a smooth & even texture, good circulation and no
greasy patches or flaky areas, healthy colour and it has optimal content of water and lipid
Normal skin has an adequate amount of water and lipids and a moderate sensitivity level

Dry skin
 Tend to feels tight, especially after cleansing, & liable to have fine wrinkles, flaking & red patches.
In women of colour, skin may appear ashy or dull from dead skin build-up.

Oily skin
 tends to be shiny with enlarged pores, and is prone to blackheads & blemishes. the oil producing
sebaceous glands are overactive and produce more oil than is needed. The oil oozes and gives the
skin a greasy shine. The pores are enlarged and the skin has a coarse look
 Causes of Oily Skin
 Heredity
 Diet
 Hormone levels
 Pregnancy
 Birth control pills
 Cosmetics you use
 Humidity and hot weather

Combination skin
 This skin type has medium pores, a smooth & even texture, good circulation, healthy colour, may
tend toward dryness on the cheeks while being oily in the t-zone.

Skin care planogram
Skin care
Acne

Skin care
Care steps
Cleansing
 Chapter objectives :
By the end of this chapter we will be able to know the following :
 Facial cleansing benefits
 Proper cleansing steps
 Cleansers classification
 Sales benefit of cleansing concept
 Facial cleansing patient education
 Product knowledge of cleansers

Cleansing
 Benefits
 Remove dirts,makeup,grime and contaminants.
 Clears the way for the penetration of the active ingredients you may want to apply
afterwards.
 Frequency : for most people twice daily.

 Precaution : Knowing the skin type is critical in choosing the proper cleanser.
 Sales benefit
The cleansing stage considered as main line of treatment and must be performed before application
of any product in case of
 Hyperpigmintation
 Wrinkle
 Moisturization
 Acne
 Sun protection
As it prepares the skin to absorb the product you may want to apply afterward
increasing its efficacy

 Proper facial cleansing steps
( Wet cleansing )
Rinse with tape water
( Dry cleansing )
Use a piece of cotton for application
 Notice
 Cleansing and toning is a must in case of oily skin
 For other types of skin we could use wet or dry cleanser followed by cleansing toner as
optional step
 Toning step is done to
 Tighten the pores
 Remove the residuals of cleansers
 Cooling sensation

Choosing The Proper cleanser

Cleansers classification

 Why the eye zone need special products ?!!
 The skin around eye has its own traits:
1. It has virtually no sebaceous glands.
2. It is much thinner and more sensitive than other facial skin.
3. It overlies a particularly dense capillary network.
4. Has minimal fat badding.
5. Stressed by frequent eye movement and squinting.
 Eye makeup products (Mascaras and eye shadows ) are of wide variety in their composition ,(
water-based , solvent-based , petrolatum distillates , water proof formulas ) So,they need special
cleansers of mixed properties.
 Customer education
1. Pour a small amount of cleanser in your palm.
2. Gently run the cleanser all over you face with your finger tips for 20-25 seconds.
3. Splash running warm water (lukewarm water ) in your face several times to rinse off the
cleanser until there is no more residue on your skin, Don’t direct the stream onto your face.
4. Take a clean towel and gently pat your face, make sure it remains moist to prepare your
face for the following step.
5. Cleansers may be washed up by water or toner or wiped off by a cotton or cloth according
to the cleanser’s type.
 Sales gate
Facial cleansers not suitable for eye zone cleansing as it is irritant ( not ophthalmogically tested )
So we recommend using special formula for eye zone cleaning ( eye makeup removal formulas )

 Cleansing products available at NMC
product Ingredient Features Benefits Picture

 soap free  Against dehydration  Suitable for skin
cleansing  Against dryness and
RoC agents inflammation sensitive skin
Enydrial ,irritation  suitable in hajj&
dermatological bar  Glycerin  No fragrance , ommra seasons
 Panthenol hypoallergenic , non  moisturizing effect
 Beta comedogenic,  suitable in skin
Sitosterol moisturizing, soap dryness diseases
free with high
 Without over drying tolerability
effect
 reduce discomfort
sensation for dry
skin
 Soap free  Against dehydration  Ideal make up

cleansing  Against remover for both
RoC agents inflammation eye &face even
Enydrial Face  glycerin ,irritation water proof make
cleansing lotion  Emollient  No fragrance , up for dry skin, just
agents hypoallergenic , non with cotton pads no
 Panthenol comedogenic, water needed
moisturizing, soap  Suitable for skin
free dryness and
 Without over drying sensitive skin
effect  suitable in hajj&
ommra seasons
 moisturizing effect
 suitable in skin
dryness diseases
with high
tolerability
 soap free  Against dehydration  Same like soap but
cleansing  Against in gel form
RoC agents inflammation according to
Enydrial foaming gel ,irritation consumer life style
 Glycerin  No fragrance ,
 Panthenol hypoallergenic , non
 Beta comedogenic,
Sitosterol moisturizing, soap
free
 Without over drying
effect

 Triple action  3 uses in just one
Cleanser product ( one
RoC Toner step) provide time
Hydra 3in 1 Moisturizer saving ,economic
( Clarify, tightening & easy to use with
the pores and cotton pads
moisturize the skin )  Make up removal
 1%salyci  Deeply clean the  Daily care for acne

lic acid) pores, remove oils prone skin and oily
 prevent formation of skin
RoC spots & black heads  Potentiate the
Purif-ac cleanser action of upward
applied medication
in case of acne
 milky cleanser  suitable for

with anti cleansing after sun
inflammatory burn, leaser
RoC ,itching and ,chemical peeling
Calmance cleansing redness effect….by and any skin
lotion cotton pads problems having
redness
( sensitive skin )
 Used as water
proof make up
remover
 Remove impurities  suitable for the

and make up of eye delicate eye
RoC contour
eye makeup remover
 Remove deep  give healthy clean

impurities skin
Roc  Tighten the pores
skin toner  Remove residuals
of cleansers

 AHA  Control sebum  prepare the skin for
 Zinc production care
lactate  purify the skin and  mask blemishes
EXFOLIAC eliminate impurities  moisturize
Foaming gel 200 ML  matify complexion
all day long
 Glycolic
Keratolytic action
acid 4%
(AHA+BHA) Cleanse and clears the
DUCRAY  Zinc
Bactericidal effect on shiny skin
Keracnyl Cleansing salicylate
acne Suitable for acne prone
Gel – 200ml 0.5%
Sebum reduction skin and oily skin
 Sabal Hydrating action
 Glycerin
-(Hydrolyzed Oat -Detoxification,

Protein) soothing and
Moisturizing Botanical Protection of the skin
Film Forming
Conditioning Agent -Washes away make-
up, dirt and other
-(Saccharum impurities. Leaves skin
Officinarum) feeling refreshed
Plant Source of Alpha and silky smooth
ORANGE DAILY Hydroxy Acid, has an
Daily cleanser Oat Protein excellent Exfoliating -Good for all skin
Witch Hazel action Types
Molasses
Vitamin C -(Hamamelis - A detergent- and
Virginiana) formaldehyde-free
An antioxidant form of cleanser that gently
retinol that helps purges dirt,
increase makeup, and
epidermal thickness and environmental
stimulate epidermal pollutants
proteins to keep skin from the skin without
soft and plump dehydration
or irritation

 Mild washing base,  Moisturizing
SLS free ,soothing and Anti
 High rinsing power septic soap
 Biconcave in shape- For face and body use
melt slowly big (Adults, children and
volume Lasting for babies )
longer duration  Not irritating
 Perfume free patients with atopic
skin
BIODERMA  better patient
Atoderm soap acceptance.
 Suitable for atopic
and dry skin
patient
 Could be used in
hajj
 Soothing,  Suitable cleanser
seboregulating, For oily and
BIODERMA purifying actions Combination skin
Sebium foaming gel  Excellent ocular and and for acne prone
skin tolerance. skin and for acne
 For Ladies: could be patients under
used as Make up treatment
remover  Excellent
 For Men : could be tolerability
used as Shaving
foam  Suitable for men
with beard
follliculitis
 2%  It has Keratolytic • Fights 100% of

salicylic and purifying action spots
acid  Moisturizer • Clinically tested /
 2%  Soothing and clinically proven
sorbitol calming effect • Clears existing
 Glycerin decreasing PGE2 spots / Helps
CLEARASIL  Areauma and increasing prevent spots
Daily face wash tsTM endogenous • Visibly clearer skin
endorphin • Visibly reduces
 Removing spot size
impurities , dirt and • Visibly reduces
contaminants spot redness
 Preparing the skin • Dermatologically
to accept and absorb tested
upward application • Acceptable
of medication tolerance
• Without over
drying

 2%  It has Keratolytic • Fights 100% of

salicylic and purifying action spots
CLEARASIL acid  Moisturizer • Clinically tested /
Deep pore treatment  2%  Soothing and clinically proven
toner sorbitol calming effect • Clears existing
( Ultra lotion )  Glycerin decreasing PGE2 spots / Helps
 Areauma and increasing prevent spots
tsTM endogenous • Visibly clearer skin
endorphin • Visibly reduces
 Tightening pores spot size
after cleansing • Visibly reduces
 Removing the spot redness
residuals of • Dermatologically
cleansers tested
• Acceptable
tolerance
• Without over
drying
 Sodium  Controls sebum  Adapts to varying

Lauroam production needs of skin
phoacetat  purifies the skin and  Balances drier and
e, eliminates impurities oilier areas of the
 Sodium skin
OLAY Myristoy  Removes
Skin Adapt Face wash l impurities leaving
Sarcosina skin soft and
te, smooth
Sodium  Suitable for
Tridecyl normal, oily and
Sulfate, combination skin
Salicylic
Acid,
Sorbitol,
Glycerin,
Sodium
Chloride,

 Glycerin  Controls sebum  Adapts to varying
 production needs of skin
Paraffinu purifies the skin  Balances drier and
m pores and eliminates oilier areas of the
OLAY Liquidu impurities skin
Skin Adapt milk m,  Removes
 PEG 6 impurities leaving
Stearate, skin soft and
 PEG 30 smooth
 Glyceryl Deeply cleanses
Stearate, oilier areas
 niacinam while
ide, hydrating dry
 Cymbop areas
ogon  Suitable for
Citratu normal, oily and
combination skin
 Salicylic  Tightening pores  Adapts to varying

OLAY Acid, after cleansing needs of skin
Skin Adapt toner  Glycerin,  Removing the  Balances drier and
 Pantheno residuals of oilier areas of the
l, cleansers skin
 Sodium  purifies the skin  Removes
Dehydro pores and eliminates impurities leaving
acetate, impurities skin soft and
 Salvia smooth and the
Officinali pores tight
s (Sage  Suitable for
exctract), normal, oily and
Camelli combination skin
 Sodium  gentle on skin for  Removes

Lauroam everyday cleansing. impurities leaving
phoacetat  A formulation of skin soft and
OLAY e, caring cleansing smooth
Gentle Cleanser Face  PEG-200 ingredients,  Moisturize the
wash  Hydroge containing extracts skin
nated of Aloe and  Facilitate the
Glyceryl cucumber which lifts absorption of
palmate, away dirt and make upward applied
 sorbitol, up to effectively creams
 Glycerin cleanser and refresh  Suitable for
 aloe the skin normal and dry
barbaden skin
sis
 , cucumis
sativitus

 Sodium  Gently cleanses  Non irritant to eye
Lauroam  , effectively removes zone
phoacetat waterproof makeup ,  Ophthalmologic
e perfumed and color ally tested
OLAY  , PEG- free  Suitable for
Gentle Cleanser eye 200 normal and dry
makeup remover  Hydroge skin
nated
Glyceryl
palmate,
 Sorbitol
 glycerin,
 aloe
barbaden
sis
 , cucumis
sativitus
 Dimethic  Removing  Enhance the
on impurities , dirt and efficacy of upward
 Pantheno contaminants applied total effect
``OLAY l  Preparing the skin cream
Total effect facial  Niacinam to accept and absorb  Stimulates cell
wash ide upward application renewal
 Glycerin of medication
 Vitamin
B5

Skin care
Care steps
Exfoliation
 Chapter objectives
By the end of this chapter we must be able to know the following :
 Benefits of exfoliation process
 Types of exfoliation
 Exfoliation patient education
 Glycolic acids actions and uses
 Product knowledge of exfoliators
 Facial masks types
 Facial masks usage instructions
 Sales benefits of exfoliation knowledge

Exfoliation
 Benefits:
 Removal of dead cells

 Renewal of cells
 Skin smoothing
 Collagen stimulation
 Whitening

Exfoliation types

 Physical ( mechanical ) exfoliation
It is done by
 Scrub
It depend on the friction between the micro beads and the skin
 Exfoliating Mask ( peel off mask)
Suitable for dull skin
Boost of radiance
deep down clean face, tighten pores, or brighten and exfoliate the face.
provides instant, intensive smoothing benefits.
dissolves dull and dry skin creating a complexion that is fresh, clear, smooth, and bright.
Remember :
Facial masks
 Action
 Masks have a deep cleansing action on the skin, removing impurities, wastes and dead skin
cells. They also keep the pores free of clogged oil and prevent many related problems ( White
heads , blackheads ). The removal of dead cells helps to improve the skin's ability to absorb
products, making moisturization much more effective. The skin's cell renewal function also
improved.
 facial masks can deep down clean face, tighten pores, or brighten and exfoliate and hydrate
face.

 Types
Facial masks
Cleansing mask Moisturizing mask Exfoliating mask
► Cleansing mask
 Often contain clay or fruit, absorb excess oils. The enzymes in fruits such as
papaya have a deep-cleansing action and leave the skin glowing.
 Better suited to oily and some combination skins

 Great for removing excess oil, deep cleaning Natural clay is a great detoxifying
treatment for face without leaving skin extra dry. Most clay masks work fine with
sensitive skin. also help to unclog the pores and remove dead skin cells. Thus,
they discourage the formation of blackheads, refine the pores and improve the
texture of the skin
► Moisturizing mask
 Suitable for dry skin
 rejuvenate and plump the skin
 Could be used as firming mask as it boost skins moisture content which will
reduce fine lines caused by skins dehydration. This will give the appearance of a
more youthful and firmer face.
► Exfoliating mask
 Mentioned before

Masks usage instructions
► Clay type
 Cleans the face first then Pat your face dry.

 Then squeeze some of the mask into your hand.
 Apply it with soft circular motion to help it get into the various pores, nooks and
crannies of your face. You want it to be thick enough that every pore gets some goo into
it, but thin enough so that the whole mask can dry and therefore lift away that dirt and
oil. A good rule of thumb is that you want to put on just enough so that you can't see the
skin any more - but so there is not a 'thickness' to the mask It should be like a layer of
aluminum foil pressed down on your skin, as far as a thickness similarity goes. Solid but
thin.
 Let the mask dry. Each mask will have on it a recommendation of how long this takes,
usually from 10 minutes to 30 minutes. You want the mask to be fully dry so it has
sucked all of the impurities away from your pores, but you also don't want to sit there
for hours! ,
 use warm water and a washcloth to wash away the mask. This again keeps the pores
open so that any lingering clays are cleaned out of them, and the washcloth helps to get
that clay off your face.
 rinse with cold water (The cold water will close the pores back up again, helping them
keep future grime from entering )
► Peel off type
 Use your fingers or a cotton ball to apply a fairly thick layer to your face and neck.
Use care around your eyes.
 Let the mask dry completely.
 Peel off the face mask ( remove it as one layer ) and rinse with plain cool wate
 Chemical exfoliation
Is done by different ingredient like ,
Tretinoin , Iso tretinoin , Adapalene , Azelic acid and Glycolic acids
( Alpha Hydroxy acids , Poly Hydroxy acids and Omega Hydroxy acids)
Exfoliation sales benefits:

 Line of treatment of wrinkles as it collagen stimulant
 Line of treatment of Hyperpigmintation as it Keratoactive( removal of skin surface layer with
accumulated melanin )
 Treatment of non inflamed acne as it has Seboregulatory and anti infective effect
 Moisturizer

► For physical exfoliators
 Gentle rubbing
 Prober choice for micro beads size ( face , body , once a week , once daily )
► For chemical exfoliators
 Thin layer once a day at night with gradual increasing for contact time
 Don’t exceed 5% for face and 10% for body in case of OTC
 Using sun protection
 As usual with all new products application sensitivity test must be done before usage

 Exfoliation products available at NMC
Product Ingredient Features Benefits Picture

 Salicylic  Keratolytic  Purifies & tighten the
acid(2%) action pores and eliminates
RoC  sepicontrol A  Seboregulatory black heads
Purif-ac 5 action  Reduce imperfections
exfoliating  Cedar wood  Comedolitique & un clog the pores
lotion  Anti bacterial  Reduce inflammation
 Portulaca
 Alantoin and & fungus &
action  Soothes redness &
bisabolol
 Anti pruritic inflammation
 copper &
 Anti  Healing of marks left
zinc
inflammatory by spots
 Reinforce
immunity
defense
 soothing action
 Repairing
action
 daily without
need of water
especially for
black heads
 AHA  Stimulate cell  Suitable for those

 Smooth renewal with oily skin for
EXFOLIAC exfoliating  Remove dead weekly care
Facial scrub micro skin  Scar removal
50 ml bisabolol  Reduce  Non inflamed acne
blemishes care
 Remove  Soothing skin
impurities
 Finely  Remove all  Cleanse, invigorate

crushed traces of dead and moisture skin.
apricot skin cells,
Bio skincare kernel pimples,
Apricot Facial  open blocked
and Body pores.
Scrub

 Finely  Reduce the  Effective in wrinkle
ground appearance of treatment
Bio skincare blueberry & fine lines,
Blueberry & almond wrinkles and
Almond Body crow’s feet.
Scrub  helps with dry
patches and
flaky skin.
 Natural  Help’s to  Moisten the skin

Olives maintain  Useful in stretch mark
Bio skin care elasticity of
Olive Face & skin,
Body Scrub  Promote a
smooth, radiant
complexion,
 Heal dry,
brittle nails and
soften cuticles.
 Fresh  Rich in  Helps to promote
Strawberries antioxidants, anti-aging.
help maintain a
Bio skin care healthy
Strawberry appearance
Face & Body
Scrub
 2% salicylic  It has chemical  Fights 100% of

acid 3% and mechanical spots
 glycerin Keratolytic  Clinically tested /
 micro beads action thinning clinically proven
CLEARASIL  AreaumatsT the keratinized
Acne clearing outer most  Clears existing
M
scrub epidermal layer spots / Helps
 Soothing and prevent spots
calming effect  Visibly clearer skin
as it decrease  Visibly reduces
PGE2 and spot size
increase  Visibly reduces
endogenous spot redness
endorphins
 Dermatologically
tested
 Acceptable
tolerance
 Without over
drying
 Dimethicon  Vitamin B3 Fight 7 signs of ageing
 Panthenol Energizes skin  Fine lines
 Niacinamid cell  . Wrinkles.
 Pro Vit B5:  Age spots.
 Glycerin
Stimulates cell  Rough texture.
 Vitamin B5 renewal  Dry, scaly skin
 Vitamin E  Vitamin C:  .Uneven skin tone.
 Titanium Enhances skin  Deep pores.
dioxid metabolism and
OLAY  Zinc oxide helps reduce
Total effect  Vitamin C pigmentation
mask spots
(whitening
attributes)
 Vitamin E:
Anti-oxidant
which fights
free radicals,
key in fighting
skin ageing
 Mineral Spring
extract:
 zinc oxide
(Protects Skin)
 Sodium
(moisturizes),
and magnesium
( strengthens
the skin)

Skin care
Care steps
Moisturization
 Symptoms of skin dryness
 Causes of skin dryness
 Types of skin dryness
 Treatment plan
 Skin dryness patient education
 Moisturizers product knowledge
 Sales benefit of moisturization knowledge

Moisturization
This step is an important step to keep skin smooth and radiant with healthy appearance .
Considered as first Prophylactic line against wrinkles.
Essential step for normal and dry skin.
 Dry skin defination :

Dry skin is incapable to Retain its water content , leading to a serious lack of water or to produce a
sufficient amount of lipids, leading to a serious lack of lipids
 Symptoms of skin dryness:

 tightness after bathing
 Itching
 Redness
 Roughness
 Deep fissures
 Scaling
 Loss of radiance
 Fine lines and fine pores
 Premature ageing
 Causes of skin dryness

 Aging :-the outer most layer of the skin loses its capacity to retain water inside the skin
specially over 40 years age due to less intracellular lipids content
 Lack of nutrients :- specially omega-3 fatty acid ,zinc and vitamin A which affect the integrity
of the skin
 Chemicals:-like deodorants shampoos ,and soaps (antibacterial)
 Drinks :-like alcohol and caffeine
 Drugs :-like diuretics ,antihistaminic ,isotretenoins
 Diseases:- like sever diarrhea ,vomiting ,high fever ,and sweating end stages of renal disorders
,billary disorders ,diabetes ,hyper parathyroidism , Hodgkin disease ,post burning and
surgical scars destroy the skin and thin the epidermis
 Habits:-like using worm water during bathing ,heating woods ,burning stoves ,and space
heaters

 Bathing :-repeated bathing more than one time per day may cause skin dryness
 Radiations :-areas exposed to radiation therapies
 Weather:- changes weather in winter where low humidity
 During thyroid treatment:- and weight loss skin may become dried
 In females during menopause:- decline in estrogen hormone may cause dryness and some
times excess oil
 How skin becomes dry
 Stratum corneum has water content of about 30%and when these content become less than
10% the outer most layer becomes dry, scaly and rough
 Water lost through evaporation (transe epidermal water loss TEWL) under low humidity
conditions
 Stratum corneum has lipid layer when it has deteriorated . the skin lose its lipid content

Skin dryness treatment plan
Medication
Ideal
dryness
treatment
Patient
education

Moisturization planogram
Medication :Moisturization planogram
 So, Moisturizers acts mainly by 2 way
 Rehydration and water retention

 Restoring lipid functional barrier

 Patient education
 once day bath or shower is enough for keeping hygiene (to decrease oil loss )
 do not use hard drying soap but use gentle skin soap
 gently pat or blot your skin after bathing to dry your skin
 do not use wool and irritant materials in clothing use cotton and silk clothes to allow your
skin breath
 use omega 3 fatty acid to help and maintain your skin integrity by eating more fishes
 Eat green leaves and fruits like (apricot ,strawberries ,soybeans ,papaya and orange)
 Avoid excess exposure to sun
 drink plenty water and herbal tea

 Moisturization products available at NMC
Product Ingredient Feature Benefit Image

 Mineral oils  Protecting action  Protect skin
 Glycerin  Nourishing surface from
 Vegetal oils action dehydration
 Alantoin,  Restore
 Panthenol  Soothing action hydration inside
RoC  Bisabolol the skin
Enydrial face extra  Repairing  Reduce itching
 Omega3&omega
emollient action(precursor & tightening
of ceramide in  Restructuring of
the skin) skin…..for atopic
 Non greasy, Non skin
comedogenic,fra  Highly accepted ,
grance free safe, non irritant
 Mineral oils  Protecting action  Protect skin

 Glycerin  Nourishing surface from
 vegetal oils action dehydration
 Alantoin  Restore
 Panthenol  Soothing action hydration inside
 Bisabolol the skin
 Repairing
RoC action(precursor  Reduce itching
Enydrial body of ceramide in & tightening
lotion the skin)
 Non greasy, Non  Restructuring of
comedogenic,fra skin…..for atopic
grance free skin
 Highly accepted ,
safe, non irritant
 Economic use
 Emollients  Very  Suitable for
moisturizing lip dryness
 Vit E active ingredients either during
ROC  Protect against sunny or cold
Enydrial lip care  UVB filters external weather
aggressions
 anti  Repairing &  Relieving
inflammatory soothing action inflammation
( bisabolol ) , itching due
to dryness

 Glycerin  Attract water  Association of 3
 Hydrovance into the skin moisturizing
 Omega 3 and (reservoir effect) agents
omega 6  Reinforce the  strengthening
 Fever few skin barrier the biological
 vit E which creates an hydration
 Sun screen filter occlusion effect mechanisms
and sun spheres at the skin’s  Decrease
 bisabolol-vit B5) surface to reduce sensitivity of the
RoC water skin and protect
Hydra bioactive evaporation the skin from
normal skin  antioxidant by carcinogenic
capture free effect of the sun
radicals from the  Protect the skin
skin from damage
 Protect the skin effect of the sun
from the damage more powerful
effect of the sun than any other
 Soothing agents filter
 Leave the skin
sooth and
protect from
inflammations
 Glycerin  Powerful  Increase the
 Hydrovance moisturizing potency of
 Omega 3 and agent moisturizing
RoC omega 6 agents and give
Hydra bioactive dry  Fever few more hydration
skin  vit E to dry skin
 Sun screen filter
and sun spheres
 Bisabolol-vit B5)
 Glycerin  Powerful  Increase the

 Hydrovance moisturizing potency of
RoC  Omega 3 and agent moisturizing
Hydra bioactive omega 6 agents and give
dry skin  Fever few more hydration
 vit E to dry skin
 Sun screen filter
and sun spheres
 Bisabolol-vit B5)

 Niacinamide  Restoring of  Biorepairing
( Vit PP ) skin comfort care of very dry
 Mannitol ,softness and and Atopic Skin
 Xylitol suppleness.  calming the
 Glycerin correct the defective Erythema and
skin barrier. itching Durably
 Limiting the  Pleasant smell.
colonization of  No greasy
BIODERMA Staph Auerus sensation or
Atoderm PP (that normally traces on skin
cream Colonize after
90% on skin of application
Atopic patient )
 Easily and
rapidly
absorbed could
be applied
easily on wide
areas.
 Beta-Sitosterol  Multi action  Emollient ,
 Piroctone emollient in one soothing and
Olamine emollient purifying
 Zinc Gluconate  provide Steroid  Safer than
like action corticosteroids
BIODERMA without  better patient
Atoderm PO zinc Steroid side compliance
cream effect
 Corticosteroid  Suitable for use
urea, perfume, on oozing lesions
lanoline free
 Easily and
rapidly
absorbed could
be applied
easily on wide
areas
 Non occlusive
formula

 Ceramide  Rebuilds skin  Suitable for dried
 essential fatty lipids film out and
EXFOLIAC acids  Soothing action weakened skin
Reconstructive 40  cholesterol  hydration  Moisturizing and
ML  Repair the soothing agent
cutancous  Helps rebuild the
barrier damage lipidic
film
 Tested with
isotretinon
 Glycerin  Petrolatum jelly  optimal

 Petroleum forms an hydration for dry
jelly imperceptible skin
protective film  Maintain optimal
on the surface of water content
the skin.  Nourishing
 Glycerin, with its  instant sensation
DUCRAY Ictyane
highly hydrating of skin comfort
Cream 50ml
action, makes
sure the water
stays
concentrated in
the superficial
layers of the
epidermis.
 Glycerin  Better spreading  Immediate,
 Liquid petroleum  Ultra fast long-lasting
jelly penetration comfort
 safflower oil  Greater hydrating  Suitable for
DUCRAY Ictyane
effect large surface
Body Lotion –
area
500ml
hydration (
body )

 Restore The HLF
 nourishes,
(Hydrolipidic
repairs and
Film )
 Hydroxydecine protects
 Covering power,
 Mineral oils immediately and
DUCRAY Kelyane super fatting
 Vitamin E & A durably the most
HD Lip Care 15ml agent
 UVA-UVB sun desiccated lips
 Repair , Protect
protector ( Dry cracked
 Long lasting
lips )
hydration : 6
Hours
 Vitamin E  Anti-oxidant ,  Nourishes,
 Green Tea Anti- moisturize the
 Gingko Biloba inflammatory Skin an
 Vitamin C and Prevents  improves skin
 skin dehydration smoothness
 Free radical  Provides

ORANGE DAILY scavenger that protection
Moisturizing cream helps soothe against
irritated environmental
 and inflamed aggressors that
skin and fights Contribute to
against aging.
premature aging ,
protects against  Reduces the
 pollutants signs of aging
 A powerful
antioxidant and
circulation
enhancer that
 Helps combat the
visible effects of
aging. A highly

 Octocrylen  Binds water/  Keeping healthy
 Avobenzone locks moistures skin appearance
 Dimethicon into the upper preventing
OLAY  Glycerin layer of the skin dullness
Complete day  Vitamin B3  Provide sun  Protect skin from
cream  Vitamin B5 protection factor ageing and
 Tochopheryl 15 against UV pigmentation
acetate (protection
 Panthenol recommended by
dermatologists)
Fights free radicals
(Vit E)
 Dimethicon  Binds water/  Keeping healthy
 Glycerin locks moistures skin appearance
 Vitamin B3 into the upper preventing
 Vitamin B5 layer of the skin dullness
 Tochopheryl  Figths free  Protect skin from
OLAY acetate radicals (Vit E) ageing
Complete night  Panthenol
cream
 Glycerin,  The Multi-  Keeping healthy

Ethylhexyl Radiance skin appearance
OLAY  Salicylate, Butyl Complex preventing
Complete  Methoxydibenzo contains natural dullness
Multiradiance ylmethane light reflecting  Protect skin from
SPF15  ,Niacinamide particles and ageing
 Phenylbenzimida mandarin extract.  Broad spectrum
zole  Skin pampering protection from
 Sulfonic Acid, vitamins (B3, E sun
Citrus Nobilis + & Pro Vitamin
SPF 15 B5)
 contains SPF15
broad spectrum
protection

 Glycerin,  Complete day  Used as a
Ethylhexyl cream mixed foundation
OLAY  Salicylate, Butyl with Max factor For different skin
Complete Touch of  Methoxydibenzo touch of color
foundation SPF 15 ylmethane foundation for
(Light & Dark)  ,Dimethicon, for up to 24  Helping to hide
 Titanium hours and evens scars
Dioxide, out your  Provide complete
 Niacinamide complexion for a moisturization
light, effortless for skin
look you can
wear every day.
 Available in 2
shades: light and
dark

Skin care
Care steps
Sun care
By the end of this chapter we must able to know the following :
 Types of sun radiations
 The effect of UV rays on human skin
 Importance of sun protection
 Types of sun screens
 The meaning of SPF and IP
 Pharmacy classification of sun screens
 Sun protection patient education
 Sun screens product knowledge
 Tanning concept
 Tanning types
 Management of sun burn

Sun care

Artificial photo protection
 Many Methods Could be used For Artificial Photo protection Like:

- Clothes (Dark or Light Color!!)
- Hats (it’s design!!)
- General Advices.
- Sunscreens
 Remember that Sunscreens is one of Methods used for Artificial Photo protection

 Sun protection importance:
 Minimize freckling, wrinkling and ageing of the skin
 Minimize the risk of eye damage
 Avoid sunburn; sunburn at any age, whether serious or mild, can cause permanent and
irreversible skin damage and increase the risk of skin cancer
 Reduce your lifetime ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure; reducing lifetime exposure to UV
by 20% is estimated to result in about one third fewer cases of skin cancer in Australia
 Ultimately reduce your skin cancer risk.
 What is Sunscreen ?
 Sunscreen is a substance that helps protect the skin from the sun's harmful rays. Sunscreens
reflect, absorb, and scatter both ultraviolet A and B radiation to provide protection against
ultraviolet A and B radiation.
 UVR (Ultraviolet radiation) from the sun that can cause sunburn, wrinkling, premature aging,
and skin cancer and may also interfere with the body's immune system.

Classification of sun rays filters
 Mineral screens (reflection)

 Titanium dioxide, mica, Zinc oxide, Iron oxide
 Chemical filters (absorption)
 Anti-UVB: benzyliden camphre and octocrylen
 Anti-UVB/ UVA short: cinnamates, Mexoryl SX, Tinosorb S
 Anti-UVA long: dibenzoylmethane, Mexoryl XL
 Organic screens (reflection and absorption)
 Tinosorb M
 Conclusion,
We have two main types of sun screens with different mode of action

Photo protection efficacy index
 SPF = Sun Protection Factor

 Anti-erythema (anti-redness) efficacy index
 The only “international” index
 Recognized by FDA (USA), COLIPA (EU), JCA (Japan)…
 IP ( Protection Index) UVA
 Several anti-UVA indexes are used now days
 IP PPD (Persistent Pigment Darkening): JCA and COLIPA
 Absorption spectrum
 Anti-UVA and anti-UVB index

 SPF definition
SPF ( Sun Protection Factor ) refer to the degree to which a sunscreen can protect the skin from sunburn
( UVb effect ).
 Don’t assume
the duration of effectiveness of a sunscreen can be calculated accurately simply by multiplying the SPF by
the length of time it takes for him or her to suffer a burn without sunscreen
because the amount of sun exposure a person receives is dependent upon more than just the length of time
spent in the sun. The amount of sun exposure depends upon a number of factors including :
 the length of exposure
 time of day
 geographic location
 weather conditions
 Ideal sunscreen
 High SPF(proper SPF)
 Well tolerated
 Cosmetically pleasant
 Non-toxic
 Equally effective (UVA, UVB)
 Photo stable
 Thermo stable

 Applied 15-30 minutes before exposure
 Further reapplication after activities (swimming, sweating, Rubbing)
 Re-apply every 2 hours
 Sufficient amount( effective sunscreen dose ) (2mg/cm2)

 Sun screen products available at NMC
Product Ingredient Features Benefits Image

 SPF100  Maximum photo
protection
 Broad Spectrum
 SPF/UVA less protection
 Protecting from
than 3
UVB-UVA1-
 Anti UVA & UVA2
 Effective medical
UVB
photo protection
 CW 380 nm  Protect the skin
from sun in depth.
 Water & Sweat
 Long lasting
resistant action in
comparison with
 photo stable
other sunscreens
BIODERMA  Transparent  Doesn’t leave
Photoderm max white traces
milk 99.8%
 Not shiny, greasy,
 Perfume free sticky
 completely
absorbable on the
 Non occlusive skin not leaving
any traces.
formula
 make up wearing
after Photoderm
 Patented use is possible and
it may be used as
cellular
a base cream
bioprotection  Tested to be non
allergic & non
complex
irritant
 Non Comedogenic
 Melting texture  Provide maximum
colorless when protection for skin
applied cell
 Suitable for body
use for all skin
types
 High patient
acceptance

 Spreads very  Suitable for oily
and combination
easily leaving
skin
no oily film or  Non Comedogenic
white marks  Long lasting
BIODERMA action in
Photoderm max  photo stable comparison with
fluid other sunscreens
 Perfume free
 Ensure excellent
 Non occlusive tolerance
 Provide maximum
formula
protection for skin
 Patented cell
cellular
bioprotection
complex
Sun Filter:  Liposomal  Triple action:
 Tinosorb (sun protection
Day Long® 50+ sunscreen
S ,Antioxidant and
Lotion  Tinosorb (target the Skin soothing)
(Organic
active substance
UVA&U  Long lasting
VB to the specific
effect
Filters)
tissue ,
 Methoxyci  Suitable for all
nnamate Providing
skin types
(UVB) continuous
Other  Cost effective
ingredients: action
Vitamin E: 1 %  Once daily
 Excellent photo
Aloe vera application
Sorbitol stability
 Protect the skin
 Water
from premature
Resistance
ageing , sun burn ,
Sewat and rubproff
dryness and sun
 Non fatty
pigmenting effect
 Hydrating
 Non
comedogenic
 Non irritant
 Non perfumed

 Tinosorb S  Ultra high  Suitable for dry
 Tinosorb M and normal skin
Protection
 Cinnamates
DUCRAY  Octocrylen SPF50+
Photoscreen 50+  Non Comedogenic
Cream - 50 m l  Broad spectrum
 Invisible
UVB-UVA appearance
 Photo stable
 Protect against
 Highly water Hyperpigmintatio
n , ageing and
resistant
erythema
 Fragrance Free
 Hypoallergenic
 Tinosorb S  Very High  Suitable for oily
 Tinosorb M
Protection and combination
DUCRAY  Cinnamates
Photoscreen 30 Gel  Octocrylen  UVB-UVA skin
- 50 ml
efficacy  Non Comedogenic
 Photos table  Invisible
appearance
 Highly water
resistant  Protect against
Hyperpigmintatio
 Fragrance Free
n , ageing and
 Hypoallergenic erythema
 Oil free formula
 Broad Spectrum  Protect against  Improve Skin

Tinosorb S & UVA and UVB Elasticity
M  Suitable For All  Prevent Premature
 Anti- Skin Types, Aging,
Oxidants (Vit.E  Colorant,  Suitable for oily
Coppertone & Olive Leaf Perfume Free and skin as it non-
Oil free Cream Ext.) Oil Free. Greasy
 Cocao  Moisturizing
 Glycerides.

 Tear-free  Protect against  Durable, broad
formula with UVA and UVB spectrum
Zinc Oxide.  Suitable For All UVA/UVB
Provides broad Skin Types, protection
Coppertone spectrum  Colorant,  Antioxidant vitamin
Kids spray UVA/UVB Perfume Free and blend to supplement
protection for Oil Free. skin's natural
kids. defenses
 Waterproof
 Safe for children
 Octocrylen  Powerful UVB  Ensure a maximal

filters protection against
 Uvinul A sun burns
 New UV.A filters  An ultra-performing
 Avobenzone defense against
 Broad band UV premature skin
 Tinosorb S & filters aging.
M  Protect from
 Repairing Active damaging UV
 Vegetal DNA  6 hours rays(cf. Below
RoC resistance graph)
Soleil protexion  Enriching  Fix extreme  Stimulates the DNA
Quenching fluid moisturizing technology repair of the cells
spf 50 complex (wheat altered by sun rays,
polypeptide) to rejuvenate it.
 Allows a better
 Intolerance adhesion of the
hypo-allergenic, protection on the
fragrance-free skin, thus resisting
and colorant-free, to 6 hours sun,
 provide skin water, sand, sweat
moisture it needs and towel rubbing
while leaving a to guarantee a
velvet touch constant defence
during sun
exposure.
 Meet the demands
of the most
sensitive skin.
 Non sticks & non
greasy…..used for
normal to
combination skin

 Octocrylen  Powerful UVB  Ensure a maximal
filters protection against
 Uvinul A sun burns
 New UV.A filters  An ultra-performing
 Avobenzone defense against
 Broad band UV premature skin
 Tinosorb S & filters aging.
M  Protect from
 Repairing Active damaging UV
 Vegetal DNA  6 hours rays(cf. Below
RoC resistance graph)
Soleil protexion Anti  SOYA extract  Fix extreme  Stimulates the DNA
brown spot SPF 50 technology repair of the cells
(wheat altered by sun rays,
polypeptide) to rejuvenate it.
 Allows a better
 Intolerance adhesion of the
hypo-allergenic, protection on the
fragrance-free skin, thus resisting
and colorant-free, to 6 hours sun,
 Reduce melanin water, sand, sweat
transfer & and towel rubbing
production to guarantee a
constant defence
during sun
exposure.
 Meet the demands
of the most
sensitive skin.
 Brown spots visibly
reduced.....complexi
on is more unified
Soleil protexion Anti  Octocrylen  The same like  The same like
shine cream SPF 30 before before
 Uvinul A  Meet the demands
 provide skin of the most
 Avobenzone moisture it needs sensitive skin.
while leaving a  Non sticks & non
 Tinosorb S & velvet touch greasy…..used for
M normal to
 Matt-looking combination skin
 Vegetal DNA skin  Non shiny look
 Enriching
moisturizing
complex
 Matifying & a
seboregulating
ingredients

 Tanning
Sun tanning, also called bronzing, is the act of exposing the skin to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, for the
purpose of darkening skin color, either during sun bathing or using artificial sources, such as tanning beds.
 Tanning mechanisms :
There are two different mechanisms involved
 Firstly, the UVA-radiation generates oxidative stress, which in turn oxidises pre-
existing melanin. This leads to rapid darkening of already existing melanin
 Secondly, there is an increased production of melanin ( Melanogenesis).It is a reaction

of the body to photo damage from UVB
 Tanning types :

 Begin tanning session with only 10 or 15 minutes of exposure to the sun or a tanning lamp to
acclimatize skin to the heat and gradually increase the time as body becomes more tanned.
 Choose the right sunscreen with an SPF factor of under 15, but no less than 8 to get the
minimum necessary
 Take care to ensure that skin is moisturized with after-sun lotion; opting for a lotion
that contains aloe will help make tan last and also cool the skin since aloe is rich in skin
soothing properties.
 If you are on acne medication, do consult your health care provider before venturing out for a
sun tanning session as certain types can lower your resistance to sun.
 Those with a fair complexion are more prone to sunburn than people with darker complexions
and therefore must avoid direct sun exposure
during peak hours of 10:00 to 2:00, when its rays are the most harmful and can penetrate the
light skin most.
 Remember to wear sunglasses while tanning in the sun or in a tanning bed as your eyes are
precious and can be easily damaged by the scorching rays of noonday sun.
 Test the tanning product on a small area of skin to check for any signs of adverse reactions.
 Prepare your skin before applying sun-tanning lotion. This can be done by scrubbing away
dead skin with a loofah pad before rubbing the lotion on thoroughly. Sun tanning lotion must
be applied in slow, deliberate movements to the back of your knees, elbows, ankles and tan
lines.
 Wipe away extra lotion so you do not become a victim of ‘creased tan’ and get the bronzed
look evenly-and compliments about your sunny disposition too.
 Do remember to wash hands or gloves thoroughly with soap and water after applying sun
tanning lotion and wait at least 15 minutes before getting skin wet.
 If there are certain areas you’d rather keep light, you can pre-apply baby oil or lotion to such
regions like the knees and elbows, then use sunless tanner on them to keep them from getting
too dark.

 Tanning products available at NMC
Product name Ingredient Features Benefits Shape

 Cocoa butter  Stimulate  Fast Tanning
 Unique blend Melanin in just. one
of botanicals Formation afternoon
without
harming the
COPPERTONE skin
Mega tan Hydrating , water
resistant
 vitamin E  Fast absorbing  Fast tanning

 Aloe Vera  non-greasy  stable bronze
 Waterproof appearance
 UVA/UVB  Convenient
 sandproof
protection
COPPERTONE sunscreen that
Lotion dries in
seconds.
 Isohexadecane  Easy way to  Fast tanning

 Glycerin build and without
 Panthenol control a harmful effect
COPPERTONE of sun
Sunless tanning (Provitamin flawless,
 High patient
lotion B5) sunless tan acceptance
 Tochopherol  Contains  Moisturizer of
(Vitamin E), moisturizers skin
and vitamin E
 Clean, fresh
scent; won't
clog pores;
dries quickly

 Sun burn
produced by overexposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation, commonly from the sun's rays. Usual mild
symptoms in humans and animals include red or reddish skin that is hot to the touch, general fatigue,
and mild dizziness. An excess of UV-radiation can be life-threatening in extreme cases. Exposure of
the skin to lesser amounts of UV radiation will often produce a suntan.
 Topical preparation
may be Healing accelerator ( Mebo, Bepanthen ) and / or soothing agents ( after sun products )

 Avoid sun exposure between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m. when the sun’s rays are strongest.
 Wear protective clothing, long sleeved shirts, long pants, wide-brimmed hats, umbrellas.
 Use sunscreens regularly!
 Avoid tanning beds and tan-accelerating agents.
 Beware of reflective surfaces such as sand, water, and concrete which can reflect more that
half the sun’s rays onto your skin. Sitting under the shade does not guarantee protection from
sunburn.
 Don’t forget to wear sunscreen on overcast days. The sun’s rays are as damaging to your skin
on cloudy days as they are on sunny days.
 Examine your skin frequently for new skin growth or changes in existing moles, freckles,
bumps and birthmarks.

 Sun burn products available at NMC
Product Contents Features Benefits Picture
 Fever  Anti irritation  Immediate
few(plant , anti redness relief from
extract by and anti redness &
J&J) itching irritation from
RoC  Anti oxidant first use(post
Calmance  Cell leaser,
intolerance  Ginkgo membrane chemical
repairing biloba protection peeling, sun
cream  CM glucan  Non greasy burn)
,fragrance for  Reinforce skin
sensitive skin natural defense
 Mostly natural  Repairing
product action
 increase
customer
acceptance
 High safety
profile
 Essential fatty  Soften the skin  soothes painful
acids and make it sensations and
 Glycerol more supple its multivitamin
 Anti-oxidant  Helps the skin E complex and
VICHY complex rediscover it PCA clay
Capital made from optimal promotes
soliel lotion PCA clay and moisture. cellular repair.
Polytocopherol  Aid the skin's
 Thermal Spa natural self-
Water defense system.
 Soothing and
anti-irritating
 Vitamin E  Eliminates  Rapidly relieve
 Menthol, damaging free and revitalize
alantoin and radicals to the overheated
SEBAMED bisabolol protect against skin after sun
After sun  Cacao butter premature exposure
soothing and glycerin ageing  Suitable for
balm  Cooling and children
soothing  Suitable for
properties sensitive skin
regenerate the
skin
 Provide intense
hydration and
protect the
elasticity of the
skin

Skin care planogram
Skin care
Acne

Skin care
Cure steps
Hyperpigmintation
 Chapter objective
 Definition of Hyperpigmintation
 The concept of photo types
 Phases of pigmentation development
 Causes of Hyperpigmintation
 Lines of treatment for Hyperpigmintation
 Different sites of Hyperpigmintation and treatment lines of handling each
 Whitening product knowledge
 Sales benefit of whitening knowledge

Hyperpigmintation
 Definition
Hyperpigmintation is the darkening of an area of skin or nails caused by increased melanin.
 Hyperpigmintation etiology
Hyperpigmintation happens due to increasing in melanin production as a result of Melanocyte stimulation
( The most predominant stimuli is sun rays

 Melanocyte
 Key cell for pigmentation.

 Factory of melanin Synthesis.
 Branched nucleated functioning cells.
 Located at the basal cell layer of Epidermis.
 Each Melanocyte responsible for pigmentation of 36 Keratinocytes
o (Epidermal Melanin Unit)
 Melanin
 Pigments produced from Melanocyte.

 Melanin is produced from Tyrosine.
 Distributed to Keratinocytes.
 Present inside Melanocyte- Keratinocytes- Corneocytes.
 Two Main types are available :
-Eumelanin (Brown-black- important for Photo protection- in all prototypes except
prototype I)
- Phaeomelanin (orange-Red- No Photo protection role- Phototype I)
 Eumelanin absorb, reflect, diffract UVs.
 The intensity of Eumelanin concentration determine the Skin prototype

 Fact
 People are six photo types.
 Each photo type depend on the ratio between Phaeomelanin and Eumelanin
 We cannot change our photo type.

 Melanin synthesis

Simply
 Phases of pigmentation development

 Steps of pigmentation:
 Induction of pigmentation
 UVs
 Mediators e.g. Melanotropic factors (αMSH, ET-1)
 factors.
 free radicals.
 Melanin Synthesis
 Inside Melanocyte
 From L. Tyrosine
 Tyrosinase Enzyme (Key Enzyme).
 CU++ is an important Co Enzyme.
 Transfer of Melanosomes Into Keratinocytes and Corneocytes
 Installation of Melanosomes into corneocytes

 Causes of Hyperpigmintation :
 Direct exposure to sun rays.
 Hormonal imbalance ( melasma )
 ( Hormonal therapy , pregnancy , contraceptive pills )
 Hereditary . little fair spots (fair skins / red heads ) freckles
 Phototoxic, photo sensitive components: retinoic acid (Roaccutane) sulphamides,

antibiotics…
 Age related pigmentation
 Brown or black spots with clear contours (UV exposed area)
 Lentigo Pigment spots located in the cheek center
 Principles of Melasma therapy

 Summary for Principles of Melasma therapy
1-Induction inhibition
 UV-protection
 Limitation of the induction by mediators
2. Melanin synthesis inhibition

 Tyrosinase enzyme inhibition
 CU++ chelating agent
3. Prevention of melanin distribution

 Decrease of Melanosomes transfer
4. Elimination of existing melanin

 Acceleration of exfoliation
This step done to peel or remove the surface skin layer with accumulated melanin and achieved
by physical or chemical method like glycolic acids or micro beads friction

Simply
Inhibition Peeling
 How to choose the proper whitening product. ?

 Formulary suitable to affected area
 Direct message
 Application design
 Price range
 How to deal with Hyperpigmintation cases ?

We are dealing with each case according to
 Site of Hyperpigmintation
 Etiology of Hyperpigmintation
 Proper choosing of line of treatment and its product

 Sites of Hyperpigmintation

 Whitening products available at NMC

 Active soy.  counter act  Unify color of
 S.P.F 15 melanin skin by reducing
excess brown spots to
which is the normal color
RoC responsible of skin in a non
SOYA unify for brown complicated way
day spots like others as it
 protection works on
from sun melanin
synthesis
 to help reduce
damage of skin
due to U.V rays
 Active soy  counter act  Unify color of

 protein, lipids melanin skin by reducing
RoC & oligo excess brown spots to
SOYA unify elements which is the normal color
night responsible of skin in a non
for brown complicated way
spots like others as it
 Intensive works on
nourishing melanin
at night synthesis
 potentiate action
of soya and
makes skin
healthy and soft
 Rucinol  Inhibit  Depegmenting

 Alpha sophora melanin action (
synthesis by melasma
IKLEN inhibition ,lentigos ,brown
Serum 30 of patches mask of
ML tyrosinase pregnancy …)
 Blocks
extracellula
r action of
alpha-MSH,
by blocking
MSH
receptors.

 Rucinol  Inhibit  Depegmenting
melanin action ( melasma
synthesis by ,lentigos ,brown
IKLEN inhibition patches mask of
cream of pregnancy
30 ml tyrosinase  Safe in sensitive
areas
 Licorice  Regulation  post

extract of melanin inflammatory
 arbutin formulation hyper
ORANGE  lactic acid  Exfoliation pigmentation
DAILY  vit C of hyper
Dual action pigmented
whitening cell
cream
 Andrographo Limits  lightening day

lide Melanocyt care adapted to
e all skin types
stimulatio even sensitive
BIODERMA  Vitamin C n  May be used as
White  Glabridine  Free make-up base
objective day radical for ladies.
cream scavenger  Suitable for
, sensitive skin
 Lysine Inhibitions of  High UV
Azeilate tyrosinase protection: SPF
Enzyme 30 –extra photo
 Eliminates protector
the pre-  use is not
existing necessary.
 Vitamin PP pigmentati
on Free
radicals
 UV filters  Reduces
melanin
transfer
 Limits
Melanocyt
e
stimulation

by UV
 Light non-
oily cream
texture
Fragrance free,
non
Comedogenic
 Andrographoli  Limits  Generalized

de Melanocyte Lightening
 Vitamin C stimulation program for
 Glabridine  Aesthetic
 Lysine Concern.
Azeilate  Free radical  Peri oral and peri
 Vitamin PP scavenger , orbital
 Glycolic acid  Inhibitions  hyper
12% of pigmentation
tyrosinase  Hyperpigmintati
Enzyme on in Flexures
 (Axilla, Between
 Eliminates Thighs, Under
the pre- breast)
BIODERMA existing  Freckles.
White pigmentatio  Any type of
objective night n Free Hyperpigmintati
serum radicals on in
 patients with
 Reduces sensitive skin.
melanin  Between Peeling
transfer sessions.
 Soft peeling  Alternative
action treatment with
 Light non-  Hydroquinone
oily cream based
texture preparations.
 Fragrance
free, non
Comedogen
ic

 Vitamin B3  penetrate  Safe , gentle ,
 Bio flavanoid skin cells, herbal whitening
 Hesperidin eight formula for
(Vit P), surface Hyperpigmintatio
 Pro Vit B4 cell layers n
 Vit E deep,  Protect skin from
 SPF 24 providing sun damaging
 Mulberry Bark, whitening, pigmenting rays
Japanese translucen
cy and
 Angelica,
OLAY hydration.
Honeysuckl
White
radiance day  Lily extracts to
promote natural,
cream
gentle fairness
 Vit B3  nutrients  replenishes

 Vit E, rich skin’s natural
OLAY  Pro Vit B5 formula moisture level
Natural  Vitamin  reduce the
White Night B3 appearance of
cream enriched dark spots
formula
gives you
fairer
looking as
it prevent
Melanoso
mes
distribuatio
n

Skin care
Cure steps
Ageing
 Definition of ageing
 Causes of wrinkle formation
 Wrinkles formation stages
 Lines of treatment of wrinkles
 Wrinkles patient education
 Sales benefit of wrinkle knowledge
 Anti wrinkles product knowledge

Ageing
 Defination :
Wrinkles are a natural part of aging. As you grow older, your skin gets thinner, drier and less
elastic. And it becomes less able to protect itself from damage. As a result, wrinkles, lines and creases form
in your skin. Although genetics are the most important determiner of skin texture, a major contributor to
wrinkles is spending too much time in the sun. Smoking also can cause premature aging of your skin .
the amount of collagen and elastin plays a very important role in maintaining its strength, elasticity and
integrity

 Wrinkle formation stages
What happen as we get older ?

 Seven Signs of Aging
 Sign 1: Water content in your skin cells diminishes, leading to increased dryness.
 Sign 2: Collagen production slows, resulting in a less supple texture. Skin loses its "memory" and
resilience and result in sagging.
 Sign 3: The rate of metabolism also slows, leading to a dull, dry appearance.
 Sign 4: Cell turnover diminishes and dead cells build up on skin's surface, causing it to look ashy and
dull.
 Sign 5: The recovery rate from UV damage slows. You may observe the beginning of dark spots
caused by irregular pigment production.
 Sign 6: Your reservoir of essential nutrients becomes depleted and your skin becomes more fragile
and delicate.
 Sign 7: Your natural ability to repair and recover from environmental damage is reduced, also
leading to discoloration, wrinkles and loss of elasticity.
 Wrinkles causes
 Age. As you get older, your skin naturally thins and becomes less elastic and more fragile.
Decreased production of natural oils makes your skin drier and appear more wrinkled. Fat in the
deeper layers of your skin, which gives the skin a plump appearance, starts to lessen. This causes
loose, saggy skin and more pronounced lines and crevices.
 Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light. Ultraviolet radiation markedly speeds up the natural aging
process and is the primary cause of early wrinkling. Exposure to UV light breaks down your skin's
connective tissue — collagen and elastin fibers, which lie in the deeper layer of skin (dermis).
Without the supportive connective tissue, your skin loses its strength and flexibility. As a result, skin
begins to sag and wrinkle prematurely.
 Smoking. Smoking can accelerate the normal aging process of your skin, contributing to wrinkles.
This may be due to changes in the blood supply to your skin.
 Repeated facial expressions. Facial movements and expressions, such as squinting or smiling, lead to
fine lines and wrinkles. Each time you use a facial muscle, a groove forms beneath the surface of the
skin. And as skin ages, it loses its flexibility and is no longer able to spring back in place. These
grooves then become permanent features on

 Lines of treatment of wrinkle :
 Facial cleansing
 Sun protection
 Exfoliation
 Hydroxy acids
 Retinoids
 Antioxidants (free radical scavengers)
Antioxidants reduce free-radical damage, thereby preventing impairment at the cellular level. They inhibit
inflammation, which leads to collagen depletion, and they offer protection against photo damage and skin
cancer. It may be topically or systemically.
 Skin matrix enhancers
 Peptides
Topical peptides are regarded as cellular messengers that are formed from amino acids and are
designed to mimic peptide fragments with endogenous biologic activity.
These peptides are comprised of a sub fragment of type I collagen propeptide, and play a role in signaling
fibroblasts to produce collagen in the skin which can improve the appearance of wrinkles
 Retinoids
( Retinol) and AHA, PHA
 Skin matrix fillers
 Collagen
 Hyaluronic acid
 Moisturization

 Wrinkles treatment plan

 Anti wrinkles products available at NMC
Product Ingredient Feature Benefit Shape

 retinol  surface…stimulate  Reduce fine lines
(0.4%) cell renewing .Reduce deep wrinkles
b-
Depth…stimulate
collagen & elastin  .less retinol conc. less
formation. side effects……..with the
 D.M.C  boosts action of same high efficacy
retinol(synergestic  imediately plump the
 hyaluronic effect) skin…….smoothes
acid appearance of wrinkles
 Inteligent biopeptide has
RoC  Attract water more effect on deep
Retinox wrinkle than biopeptide
wrinkle  inteligent and adapts its efficacy to
correxion biopeptides  bio peptides the level of tissue damage
day  communicating
agent to prevent
cell  no need to use moisturizer
damage(produce with retinox,which
collagen) prevent further formation
Inteligent of wrinkles by preventing
biopeptides dryness
a.produce collagen  .protect skin structure
 Moisturizers b.restructure …….prevent formation of
a.butylene collagen wrinkles
glycol c.increase H.A  not greasy,high
b.shea butter acceptance
& glycerin  Strong moisturizers  easy application with easy
dosing
 Anti oxidants
 protect skin from
free radicals
 Light
texture…..Immedia
tely
absorbed…….flora
l fragrance
 plastic tube with
pump

 retinol  Same like before  Same like before

 D.M.C  prevent formation of
 Hyaluronic wrinkles
acid  leave velvet ,soft finish
 Inteligent  .help skin recover
biopeptide and regenerate
RoC  .moisturizers during the night
Retinox a. butylene
wrinkle glycol  .rich texture
correxion b.glycerin without being
night greasy
 special anti  8.plastic tube with
oxidant pump
 retinol  Same like before  Same like before

 D.M.C  immediate wrinkle  immediate result
 Hyaluronic reduction effect  protect skin structure
RoC acid.  protect skin from …….prevent formation of
Retinox  Inteligent free radicals wrinkles
wrinkle biopeptide  lighten up the eye  reduce dark circles
correxion  polymer area
eye cream
 Anti oxidants
 light capture
technology
 retinol  Same like before  easy to be used at any

 D.M.C  Day& night time
 Hyaluronic
acid
RoC
Retinox
wrinkle
filler

 Vit A  Anti wrinkle  daily face care for the
 vit C  .Unifying color most wanted uses
 Vit E  Moisturizer
RoC
Retinol
A.C.E
 Jojoba oil  Anti aging herbal  Protects healthy skin cells

 vitamin A combination from free
 vitamin E promotes smooth  Radical damage, while
ORANGE  vitamin C  and radiant skin helping to
DAILY  increase the production of
10 %  Anti-oxidant , collagen
vitamin c Anti-inflammatory  to maintain firm, smooth
serum and Prevents skin skin.
 Dehydration
 A revitalizing serum that
 Powerful Anti- improves skin
oxidant and  tone and texture,
improves strength softening its
and  complexion
 elasticity of skin
OLAY  Amino  Deliver deep  Instantly softens the look
Regenerist peptide moisture to dry of fine lines and wrinkles
day cream  Allantoin skin and  Improves skin texture
 Green tea immediately help
leaf extract visibly regenerate
 Niacinamide its appearance.
 Panthenol
 Titanium  Intensely hydrates
dioxide with a rich, non-
greasy formula
 Instantly softens
the look of fine
lines and wrinkles
OLAY  Amino  Amino peptides  visibly younger skin in
Microsculpt peptide complex (restore just
ing cream  Allantoin collagen),  Regenerates skin cell by
 Green tea  Hyaluronic Acid cell.
leaf extract (restore turgor/  Increases surface skin
 Niacinamide firmness, regeneration by up to
 Panthenol  Anti Oxidants, 200%*.
 Titanium Green tea extract  Firms sagging skin, even
dioxide (fight free radicals) jaw line and neck.
Sod.hyalyuri Diminishes the visibility
nat wrinkles. Restores &
fortifies skin suppleness.

 Pro-Vitamin  Intensely  Reveals younger looking
B5, moisturises and skin
OLAY  Witch hazel regenerates the
Age to revitalize delicate area
Defying the skin, and around the eye.
eye gel soothing  Revitalises and
 cucumber refreshes eye area
extract. while smoothing
away wrinkles and
diminishes dark
circles and
puffiness
 beta-hydroxy  Ensures skin is  Reveals younger looking
acid and protected from the skin
(salicylic sun and
OLAY acid), which moisturised.
Age works with  Works to
Defying skin to gently lift significantly
Day cream away dull, dry reduce the
skin and wipe appearance of fine
away the signs of lines and wrinkles.
aging.  Stimulate collagen
 Vit E production
 87% aloe
activating
essence

Skin care
Cure steps
Cellulite
By the end of this chapter we must be able to know the follwing :
 Defination of cellulite
 Cellulite formation
 Cellulite treatment
 Cellulite patient education

Cellulite
 Definition :
Cellulite is the dimpled appearance of the skin that some people have on their hips, thighs, and buttocks. This
appearance is much more common in women than in men because of differences in the way fat, muscle, and
connective tissue are distributed in men and women's skin. The lumpiness of cellulite is caused by fat deposits that
push and distort the connective tissues beneath skin, leading to the characteristic changes in the skin.
Summary
Superficial pockets of trapped fat which cause uneven dimpling or ( orange peel )
Cellulite is not related to the condition known as cellulitis, which is a spreading bacterial infection of the skin and
tissues beneath the skin
 Cellulite occurrence factors

 Hormonal
 Hereditary
 Stress
 Diet
 Lifestyle

 Cellulite formation
Glucose plays a key role in cellulite formation
Excess glucose converted into fats (Lipogenesis) Stored in adepocyte leading to adepocyte swelling which
push push and distort the connective tissues beneath skin, leading to the characteristic changes in the skin.

 Cellulite treatment
( Depend mostly on lipolysis)
 Methylxanthines: Methylxanthines are a group of chemicals that include aminophylline,

caffeine, and theophyilline. These chemicals are present in many cellulite creams and are
promoted as treatments for cellulite because of their known ability to break down fat stores.
 Dietary supplements: Se such as ginkgo biloba, , oil of evening primrose, fish oil, and soy
lecithin. These preparations claim to have positive effects on the body such as boosting
metabolism, improving circulation, protecting against cell damage, and breaking down fats.
 Massage treatments:
 Collagenase: Collagenase is a naturally-occurring enzyme in the body that breaks down
collagen, a component of connective tissue (the tissues that bind our cells together).
injections with this enzyme may be beneficial in improving the appearance of cellulite

 Anti cellulite products available at NMC

 Retinol  Stimulate cellular  Restore skin
activity structure b.
 reduce cells fat reduce dumpy
 Caffeine storage capacity appearance of
 transforms fats into cellulite
fatty acids by  Fat burning,
activation of lipase  slimming action
with 24 hrs activity
 Draining agent ,  restore blood

Stimulates skin flow…elimination
 Rescugenin and
texture of
amino acids
 Tighten skin fluids….decrease
surface cellulite shape
RoC stimulate fibroblast  firming
Retinol renewal action…better
anti-  Eliminate fatty acid look Restore
cellulite by transporting skin connective
 carnitine
tissue…..decrease
long chain fatty
acid to cellulite
mitochondria. appearance
 Non greasy,  burning of fatty
hypoallergenic, acid
with slight  highly accepted
fragrance tested and tolerated
for sensitive skin.

 L- Carnitine,  Supports the  Visibly reduce the
conversion of fat appearance of
 Cyclomethicone,
into energy. cellulite.
Nivea  Glycerin,
Goodbye  Methylpropanedi
Cellulite ol,
Cream 200  Chondrus Crispus
ml cream (Carrageenan

Skin care
Cure steps
Stretch mark
By the end of this chapter we must be able to know the follwing :
 What Are stretch mark?

 Why don't they heal over time?
 Idea of stretch mark products
 Stretch mark patient education
 Anti stretch mark product knowledge
 Sales benefit of stretch mark knowledge

Stretch mark
 What Are They?

To understand stretch marks,
we need to explain what skin is made of and how it works ?.
Normal skin is 80% collagen and 4% elastin fiber mesh network . Elastin is the protein in the skin which
gives it its flexibility and allows it to stretch. The elastin form a fishnet-like network in the skin which
allows our skin to stretch and recoil back to its original position.
( Stretch Marks are Damaged Elastin )

These elastin fibers are damaged in stretch marks, causing the 'scar' of a stretch mark. What's so
remarkable about stretch marks is how prominent they look, but under a microscope you see almost no
difference from normal, healthy skin. If you touch a stretch mark, it feels empty, almost like there is no
skin there. Visually and textually the skin is so very different, yet so little has actually changed in the
skin.
 Why don't they heal over time?

Stretch marks are a huge problem. The problem with stretch marks is the elastic fibers in skin with stretch
marks are damaged, and elastic fibers are the single hardest thing to repair in skin. When you have a
wound that’s healing, our body replaces the collagen proteins and all the skin structures that are injured,
but the elastic fiber is very difficult to repair. The trouble with stretch marks is that there's this defect in
those fibers. So since our body cannot effectively repair those fibers, the stretch marks do not heal.

 Idea of stretch Marks Products
( Prevention is better than cure )
Mainly depend on :
 Moisturizers like shea butter, sweet almond oil, and vitamin E are used to improve skin’s elasticity
 Ingredients that improves the structure of collagen and strength of the skin.
 Alpha Hydroxy Acid. The purpose of this is ingredient is to repair and restructure the skin.
 powerful anti-oxidants such as acai, green and white tea extracts

 Anti stretch mark products available at NMC

 anti oxidant  prevent elastin &collagen  Prevent stretch
complex(vitE, degradation. marks formation
bisabolol) &reduce existing
 soften &tighten early stretch marks
RoC  high skin…..increase elasticity  keep skin elastic
Maternity anti performance unifies skin surface. enough to be
stretch marks emollient stretched…..prevent
oil spray complex stretch marks
(soya,almond,ros  oily spary formation
e,black current, form……distribute over reduce existing
wheat germs oil) large area easily. stretch marks size &
 non greasy, fast absorbed width.
 natural product  economic
 slight fragrance(tested for
sensitive skin)
 no cloth staining
 safe in pregnancy
and lactation
 increase acceptance
 Retinol  surface…stimulate cell  reduce stretch marks

(Not suitable for renewing size
pregnancy) reduce scars
 depth…stimulate collagen
 Sepitonic mineral & elastin formation
 boosts retinol action  faster results
complex
 better look and
RoC shape of stretch
 firming agents
Retinol anti  prevent the loosing marks
stretch marks appearance of the skin  better look and
cream shape of stretch
marks
 ultra emollient
base  increase elasticity of the
skin
 reduce stretch marks
shape & prevent
further formation of
stretch marks

 Cocoa Butter  Lubricates the skin to help  Relieves the dryness
 Vitamin E it retain its natural associated with
 Collagen elasticity and moisture. stretched skin due to
Palmer's  Elastin  Non-greasy cream pregnancy and
Cocoa Butter
Formula, relieves the dryness smoothes stretch
Massage Cream associated with stretched marks due to weight
For Stretch
Marks skin due to pregnancy and loss
smoothes stretch marks
due to weight loss
 Silicium,  Nourishes and hydrate the  Reduce the risk of
 Nourshing plant skin and retains its stretch marks appearing

VICHY oils elasticity and is better ablw
Anti stretch  Hydroxyproline to defend itself from
mark cream significant stretching
 Vitamin E  Powerful antioxidant and  Decreases the

 Emollients . an aide to skin likelihood of stretch
regeneration. marks apperance
AVALON  Reduce scarring
Anti stretch
mark cream

Skin care
Cure steps
Acne

Acne
 Definition
Acne is a common skin disease characterized by pimples on the face, chest, and back where these areas of skin with highest
density of sebaceous glands. It occurs when the pores of the skin become clogged with oil, dead skin cells, and bacteria.
 How do acne and scars develop?

Each follicle, or pore, in our skin contains a tiny hair and is connected with multi-lobed oil glands called
sebaceous glands. These glands produce sebum, an oily substance that lubricates our hair and skin. At
the same time, skin cells that lining the follicle are shed gradually and both the dead cells and sebum are
expelled on to the skin surface.
Diagram of the hair follicle and the sebaceous glands
Most of the time the glands produce the right amount of sebum and the pores are fine. However, in acne,
too much sebum is produced by the over-stimulated sebaceous glands. When excess sebum is mixed
with the dead skin cells, a plug is formed in the follicle. The sebum and dead skin cells are prevented from
leaving the clogged up pore, while the excretion of sebum and the shedding of skin cells continue to take
place. The accumulated sebum in turn causes a build-up of bacteria that live on it. This leads to swelling
around the pore and acne is the result. This could happen to anybody, young and old.

 Acne causes
The exact cause of acne is unknown. Several risk factors have been identified:
 Age. Due to the hormonal changes they experience, teenagers are more likely to develop acne.
Where more androgens leads to enlarged sebaceous glands which means more sebum produced
 Gender. Boys have more severe acne and develop it more often than girls.
 Disease. Hormonal disorders can complicate acne in girls.
 Heredity. Individuals with a family history of acne have greater susceptibility to the disease.
 Hormonal changes. Acne can flare up before menstruation, during pregnancy, and menopause.
 Diet. No foods cause acne, but certain foods may cause flare-ups.
 Drugs. Acne can be a side effect of drugs including tranquilizers, antidepressants, antibiotics, oral
contraceptives, and anabolic steroids.
 Personal hygiene. Abrasive soaps, hard scrubbing, or picking at pimples will make them worse.
 Cosmetics. Oil-based makeup and hair sprays worsen acne.
 Environment. Exposure to oils and greases, polluted air, and sweating in hot weather aggravate
acne.
 Stress. Emotional stress may contribute to acne.
 Acne terminology
 Whiteheads
When the sebaceous glands are over-stimulated, they enlarge and produce more sebum.
The follicle is plugged from the inside by the mixture of excess sebum and the dead skin cells
As the mixture continues to accumulate in the follicle, it eventually forms a whitehead
(closed comedo). Whiteheads are small collections of pus around the follicle and the sebaceous glands
They usually appear on the skin surface as small, whitish bumps.
 Blackheads
Sometimes, the mixture of excess sebum and dead skin cells serves only to block the pore partially,
restricting but not completely sealing off the flow of oil onto the skin surface. This results in solidification of
the sebum that fills the hair duct. The dried sebum and the shedded skin cells reach the skin surface at the
pore opening and are discolored on exposure to air, forming a blackhead (open comedo). The dark color of
blackheads is not due to dirt but is from a pigment, called melanin, of the shedded skin cells.
Both the whiteheads and the blackheads are non-inflamed lesions.
 Pustules and Nodules

As we mentioned earlier, the accumulated sebum in a clogged follicle could cause a build-up of bacteria
because some bacteria live on sebum. One type of bacteria specifically involved is Propionibacterium acnes,
or P. acnes for short. P. acnes ingests sebum and is a normal resident on skin even in people who don't have
acne. However, when the hair follicle gets clogged and sebum builds up inside the follicle, P. acnes
multiplies rapidly. In addition, it produces an enzyme that breaks down sebum into a substance called 'free
fatty acid.' It is this substance that causes inflammation, redness and swelling around the pus-formed area of
the skin. These inflamed and generally more serious acne lesions are called pustules (pus-filled yellowish
bumps) and nodules (firm, red, painful lumps just under the skin.)

 Cysts
If the inflammation is deep and severe, or if the spot is manipulated or squeezed, the pus can burst deep into
the skin tissues rather than onto the skin surface. Swelling and pain take place as the body's activated defense
mechanism sends bacteria-fighting white cells to the area. This deep-rooted inflammation and infection
result in cyst formation. Cystic acne is the most severe and stubborn of all types of acne, and carries the
biggest threat of scarring. The white blood cell antibodies that are to fight bacteria could destroy other skin
organisms and cells, severely affecting the whole follicle. Sometimes, after the acne is healed, permanent
scars remain on the skin
 Comedones
Are enlarged hair follicles plugged with oil and bacteria . a comedo is often called a microcomedo because
It cannot seen by necked eye.
 Acne types
Acne
Inflamed Non inflamed
Soft closed
Papules
comedons
Hard Closed
Pustules
Comedones
Open
Nodules
Comedones
Micro
Cysts
comedones

 Non inflamed acne
 Types of Non-Inflamed Acne Blemishes
 Soft Closed Comedones
Appearance: Soft closed Comedones present as bumpiness on the skin's surface. They are not painful or red.
Development: Soft closed Comedones develop when a plug of cellular debris and oil becomes trapped within the pore
and are covered by a layer of dead skin cells. The oil plug itself remains liquid or soft.
Treatment: Treatment involves reducing excess oil and dead cells. Estheticians and dermatologists often extract
Comedones by exerting gentle pressure, coaxing the trapped oil plug to the surface. Keeping the skin clear of soft
closed Comedones can drastically reduce the development of inflamed acne breakouts.
 Hard Closed Comedones
Appearance: Hard closed Comedones, called milia, have very obvious white heads. Unlike pustules, milia are not red
or painful. They are especially common in the eye area.
Development: Hard closed Comedones develop just as their soft counterparts, however the impaction has hardened
and is similar to a grain of sand. The white head is not pus, but rather a mass of dead cells and sebum.
Treatment: Dermatologists and estheticians (in some states) extract milia by making a tiny incision on the lesion and
carefully removing the sebaceous plug. Even without treatment, milia can work their way to the surface over time.

 Open Comedones/Blackhead
Appearance: An open comedo, or blackhead, is easy to identify by its dark brown to black surface coloring.
Development: A blackhead is an accumulation of dead skin cells and sebaceous matter within the follicle. It's top is
not covered by a layer of dead skin cells, but instead is exposed to air. The black coloring is not dirt. Air causes the oil
to darken, much like a sliced apple turns brown when exposed to air.
Treatment: Blackheads can usually be extracted by applying gentle pressure to the breakout. Consistent, thorough
cleansing reduces oiliness, which can help prevent the development of blackheads.
 Microcomedones
Appearance: Although most acne sufferers have many Microcomedones, they are too small to be seen with the naked
eye.
Development: A microcomedo is the very beginning of an acne lesion. It occurs when the sebaceous duct and pore
opening becomes blocked by excess sebum and dead skin cells. Every blemish begins as a microcomedo.
Treatment: Treatment is similar to that of soft closed Comedones and involves reducing excess oil on the skin.
Regular exfoliation helps avoid buildup of dead skin cells. Treating Comedones at this level helps prevent larger acne
breakouts from occurring.

 Inflamed acne
( Characterized by redness , itching , inflammation , secretion and sometimes pain )
 Types of Inflamed Acne Blemishes
 Papules
Appearance: A papule is a red and inflamed lesion on the skin's surface. It contains no pus or white head.
Development: Papules result from a high break in the follicle wall, allowing cellular debris and bacteria to spill into
the dermis. This break may occur when a pore becomes engorged with debris and oil, or is squeezed or otherwise
irritated. A papule often progresses to a pustule.
Treatment: Do not squeeze a papule or you may worsen the breakout. Most papules heal quickly and without
scarring, as they are not deep lesions. Benzyl peroxide treatments may help prevent papules from occurring.
 Pustules/Pimples
Appearance: A pustule is a typical pimple -- red and inflamed with a white head. They range in size from small to
fairly large. Sometimes the brownish comedonal core can be seen as a cap on the pus head.
Development: Pustules follow papules after white blood cells invade. The white cap on a pustule is pus, sebaceous
matter and cellular debris.
Treatment: Mild acne or occasional pustules can ordinarily be treated at home with benzoyl peroxide creams or
cleansers. See your dermatologist if you have numerous pustules, if they are highly inflamed, or difficult to control.
Although it's tempting, don't pop a pustule.

 Nodules
Appearance: Nodules are large inflamed lesions that occur deep within the dermis. They feel like a hard, painful
lump under the skin. Where papules occur at the surface, nodules occur deep within the skin.
Development: A nodule occurs when the follicle wall ruptures deep within the dermis. Contaminated debris from the
follicle empties into the dermis and infects adjoining follicles. A nodule is a severe form of an acne lesion.
Treatment: Never squeeze or pick at a nodule. The infection is deep and the risk of scarring is high. If you are prone
to nodular breakouts, see your dermatologist.
 Cysts
Appearance: Cysts are very large, deep inflamed lesions. They feel like soft pus-filled lesion under the skin's surface.
The most severe form of a pimple, cysts are very painful and scaring
Development: Like nodules, cysts begin as a deep break in the follicle wall. A membrane develops around the
infection in the dermis. As a cyst works its way to the surface, it damages healthy skin tissue, destroying the follicle.
The likelihood of scarring is very high.
Treatment: If you are prone to cystic breakouts, you must talk to your dermatologist. Treatment usually consists of
topical and systemic medications.

 Acne treatment
 Purpose of acne treatment
 Scaring prevention
 Reduction of the number of lesions
 Minimizing embarrassment caused by acne
 Reducing acne flare up and pain sensation
 Acne treatment medication aims to reduce
 Clumps of cells in the follicle
 Oil production
 Bacteria
 Inflammation
 Acne treatment lines
 Proper cleansing ( superficial and deep cleansing )
 Chemical peeling
 Topical bacterial treatment
 Systemic bacterial treatment
 Oral retinoid ( isotretenoins)

 Proper skin cleansing , once in the morning and once in the evening
 Physical scrubbing is not recommended as acne could get worse
 The skin should not be touched very often . people who squeeze , pinch , or pick their blemishes
have high risk of scaring
 Men who have acne should use whether electric or safety razor as it is more comfortable . the
blade should be sharp and the beard hair should be softened with soap and water befor shaving
cream is applied
 Tanning should be avoided. Even though a tan may hide blemishes the benefits are temporary
 Choose cosmetics carefully. It must be oil free
 Use hair products that labeled non-comedogenic
 Avoid types of diet that make acne flare up

 Products available at NMC
Product Ingredient Feature Benefit Picture

 AHA  Control sebum  Used in mild to
 omega HA  Anti bacterial moderate acne
 Zinc salts action prone skin
 alpha  Normalization  Balance & clear
EXFOLIAC bisabolol of keratinization the skin
Acnomega process  Enable pimple &
100 cream  anti black heeds
inflammatory elimination
action
 AHA  Control sebum  Used in strong

 Omega HA  Anti bacterial to confirmed
 Zinc salts action acne prone skin
EXFOLIAC  Alpha  Normalization  seboregulating
bisabolol of keratinization & anti bacterial
Acnomega process action
200 cream anti inflammatory  Balance & clear
the skin
action
 Enable pimple
 Seboregulatory & black heeds
effect elimination
 AHA  Control sebum  Used in

 BHA  Anti bacterial moderate to
EXFOLIAC  Zinc salts action severe acne
Lotion 125  alpha  Normalization prone skin for
ML of keratinization whole body
bisabolol
process face , chest ,
back
anti inflammatory
 follliculitis
action (ingroing hair )
 Seboregulatory of beard
 3. pili incarnati
effect
 NIACINAMIDE  Fight against  Local care for
4% OR pimples inflammatory
EXFOLIAC NICOTINAMID appearance acne
NC GEL 30 E  Enable pimples  Occasional acne
ML elimination problem

 Myrtacine  Anti-bactrial acts  Complete
 Glycolic acid on P.acnes & regulating cream
 Salicylic acid Soothes  Helps to clear
DUCRAY  Lactic acid irritations blemishes and
Keracnyl  Keratolytic effect blackheads
 Sabal Sereona
Cream – ( AHA + BHA )  Allows make-up
 Alpha-
30ml  Sebum-reducing to be applied
bisabolol
 Glycyrrheinate combination and combats
stearyl  Anti-irritants shine
 2% salicylic  It has Keratolytic  reduces spot size

 acid 5% , Seboregulatory and redness in 4
CLEARASIL Polyhydroxy anti infective hours
Rapid action acids (PHAs) action
treatment
cream
 2% salicylic  It has Keratolytic  reduces spot size

acid action and redness in 4
 AreaumatsTM  Soothing and hours
calming action
CLEARASIL
Rapid action
treatment
pads

 Salicylic acid  Keratolytic  Reduce
action imperfections &
 sepicontrol A un clog the pores
5  sebo-regulating  regulating
RoC action sebaceous
Purif-Ac  Cedar wood  Comedolitique secretion
blemish  Anti bacterial &  Healing
correction  Portulaca fungus action
emulsion ,Anti pruritic  Reduce
 Anti inflammation &
 Allantoin & inflammatory protect the skin
bisabolol  Reinforce
immunity  Soothes redness
 copper & zinc defense & inflammation
 soothing action  Healing of
marks left by
 Repairing action spots

References
Beauty knowledge references
M EDICAL AND BEAUTY WE BSITES
1. Webmd.com
2. Emedicinehealth.com
3. Medicinenet.com
4. Pgbeautygroomingscience.com
5. Medscape.com
6. http://dermnetnz.org/arthropods/headlice.html
7. British association of dermatologists
8. 1stholistic.com
9. emedicine.medscape.com
10. cosmeticscop.com
11. beauty.about.com
12. beautytech.com
13. ewg.org/2010sunscreen/faqs-2010/#28
14. colipa.com (sun screen efficacy index ppd)
15. cancerhelp.org.uk/help/default.asp?page=3007. Retrieved 2009-09-22.
Textbooks
 Skin type solution textbook by Leisel baumann

 Cosmetic ingredient dictionary
 Acne no more e book June 04, 2010
 International Journal of Cosmetic Science
 Journal of cosmetic dermatology .volume 3 , issue 1
 "Sun screen Preventing melanoma". Cancer Research UK.
 Comprehensive pharmacy review 2010 page 632 (sun screen)
 Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, May 2006
 Experimental Dermatology, August 2005, pages 601-608; Bioscience, Biotechnology, and
Biochemistry
 Avram MM (December 2004). "Cellulite: a review of its physiology and treatment"
 Anderson, Laurence. 2006. Looking Good, the Australian guide to skin care, cosmetic medicine
and cosmetic surgery.
 Alex Muniz. Exfoliation: The Secret To Healthy Skin. Retrieved on 2008-03-03.
 Bernstein, Eric. What Causes Stretch Marks?. 15 December 2008. The Patient's Guide to Stretch
Marks. 10 Feb 2009

Product knowledge references
 http;//www.Bioderma.com
 http;//www.vichy.com
 http;//www.exfoliac.com
 http;//www rocskincare.com
 http;//www. Olay.com
 http;//www.coppertone.com

Index
 Introduction 2
 Non pharma planogram 3
 Cosmeceuticals 4
 Cosmeceuticals planogram 6
 Skin care planogram 7
 The skin 8
 The skin definition 8
 Skin structure 9
 Skin types 10
o Normal skin 11
o Dry skin 12
o Oily skin 13
o Combination skin 14
 Skin care routine steps ( care steps ) 15
 Cleansing 16
o Chapter objectives
o Facial cleansing benefits
o Cleansing sales benefits
o Proper cleansing steps
o Cleansers classification
o Eye zone cleansing
 Customer education 21
 Cleansing products 22
 Exfoliation 29
o Chapter objective
o Exfoliation benefits
o Exfoliation types
 Physical ( mechanical ) exfoliation
 Facial masks
 Action
 Types
 Usage instructions
 Chemical exfoliation
o Exfoliation sales benefits
 Exfoliation products 37
 Moisturization 40
o Dry skin definition
o Symptoms of dry skin
o Causes of skin dryness
o Skin dryness treatment plan

 Moisturization products 46
 Sun care ( Sun screen ) 53
o Sun care planogram
o Normal solar radiation
o Effect of ozone , clouds and dust on sun rays
o Effect of sun radiation on skin
o Normal protection barrier
o Artificial photo protection
o Sun protection importance
o What is sun screen ?
o Classification of sun rays filters
o Photo protection efficacy index
 Sun screen products 64
 Sun care ( Tanning ) 69
o Tanning mechanisms
o Tanning types
 Tanning products 71
 Sun care ( Sun burn ) 72
o Sun burn care
 Patient education 73
 Sun burn products 74
 Skin care therapeutic steps (Cure steps ) 75
 Hyperpigmintation 76
o Definition
o Etiology
o Melanocyte
o Melanin
o Melanin synthesis
o Phases of pigmentation development
o Steps of pigmentation
o Causes of pigmentation
o Principles of melasma therapy
o How to choose proper whitening product ?
o How to deal with Hyperpigmintation cases ?
o Sites of pigmentation
 Whitening products 87
 Ageing ( Wrinkles ) 91
o Definition
o Wrinkle formation stages
o Seven signs of ageing
o Wrinkle causes
o Lines of treatment of wrinkles
o Wrinkles treatment plan
 Anti wrinkles products 97
 Cellulite 101
o Definition
o Cellulite occurrence factors
o Cellulite formation
o Cellulite treatment
 Anti cellulite products 105
 Stretch mark 106
o What are they ?
o Why don't they heal over time?
o Idea of stretch mark products
 Anti stretch mark products 109
 Acne 111
o Definition
o How do acne and scars develop ?
o Acne causes
o Acne terminology
 White heads
 Black heads
 Pustules and nodules
 Cysts
 Comedones
o Acne types
 Non inflamed acne
 Soft closed Comedones
 Hard closed Comedones
 Open Comedones
 Micro Comedones
 Inflamed acne
 Papules
 Pustules
 Nodules
 Cysts
o Acne treatment
 Patient education 120
 Anti acne products 121

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BEAUTY GUIDE

How to use this book ?

 Beauty knowledge ( the basic knowledge of the topic )

this series will discuss skin care

Training and development department 2

Non pharma category

Cosmeceuticals Cosmetics Health care Baby care Equpment

Hand Body odour Shaving

Corn and Body hair Body Shaving Blood

Make up Hand Physical birh

Foot Optical care Medical Dental care

Varicose vein Hair styling Foot spa

Stretch Damaged Hair Humdifiers

Moisturizati Senestive Hair nutration

Training and development department 3

Training and development department 4

 Factors Affecting Selection Of The Proper Cosmeceutical product

Training and development department 5

Hand Body odour Shaving

Splitted hair Diabetic foot Nursing care

Sun care Stretch mark

Senestive scalp Hair nutration

Training and development department 6

Routine care Skin conditions

Sun care Stretch mark

Training and development department 7

The skin Reflect :

Training and development department 8

Skin structure diagram

Training and development department 9

Each person's skin is unique and is a natural combination of three factors:

Training and development department 10

Training and development department 11

Training and development department 12

 Causes of Oily Skin

Training and development department 13

Training and development department 14

Routine care Skin conditions

Sun care Stretch mark

Training and development department 15

Training and development department 16

 Frequency : for most people twice daily.

Training and development department 17

Training and development department 18

Training and development department 19

Training and development department 20

2. It is much thinner and more sensitive than other facial skin.

3. It overlies a particularly dense capillary network.

4. Has minimal fat badding.

5. Stressed by frequent eye movement and squinting.

Training and development department 21

product Ingredient Features Benefits Picture

 Soap free  Against dehydration  Ideal make up

Training and development department 22

 1%salyci  Deeply clean the  Daily care for acne

 milky cleanser  suitable for

 Remove impurities  suitable for the

 Remove deep  give healthy clean

Training and development department 23