S26 Asia Pac J Clin Nutr 2015;24(Suppl 1):S26-S30

Review Article

Traditional Indonesian dairy foods

Ingrid S Surono MSc, PhD

Food Technology Department, Faculty of Engineering, Bina Nusantara University, Alam Sutera Campus,
Serpong-Tangerang, Indonesia

Indonesia is the largest archipelago blessed with one of the richest mega-biodiversities and also home to one of
the most diverse cuisines and traditional fermented foods. There are 3 types of traditional dairy foods, namely the
butter-like product minyak samin; yogurt-like product dadih; and cheese-like products dali or bagot in horbo,
dangke, litsusu, and cologanti, which reflect the culture of dairy product consumption in Indonesia.

Key Words: Indonesian dairy foods, minyak samin, dadih, dali, dangke, litsusu, cologanti

INTRODUCTION atissima, which coagulates the milk protein. However,

Indonesia, characterized by its ethnic diversity, comprises because this process involves an incubation period, bacte-
several islands having individual cultures. Hence, each rial fermentation might also occur during the prepara-
area has various indigenous foods and food habits. tion.2
Buffaloes have been domesticated in large numbers in
Indonesia. Hence, some areas in Indonesia use buffalo DADIH
milk for preparing traditional dairy products, such as Dadih, an Indonesian traditional fermented buffalo milk,
minyak samin (ghee) in Aceh, Northern Sumatera; dali or is produced and consumed by the ethnic groups of West
bagot ni horbo in North Sumatera; dadih in West Sumatra; Sumatra, Minangkabau and is considered beneficial for
dangke in South Sulawesi; and litsusu and cologanti in human health.3 It is a characteristic traditional food of the
East and West Nusa Tenggara, indicating that Indonesia Minangkabau culture. Natives named it dadiah, and it is
has long usedmilk as a food ingredient. Rural buffaloes an extremely popular dairy product in Bukit Tinggi, Pa-
maintained by small farmers in Indonesia can potentially dang Panjang, Solok, Lima Puluh Kota, and Tanah Da-
contribute to the development of the Indonesian dairy tar.4
industry. Dadih, a yogurt-like product, has a distinctive thick
Various manufacturing methods for traditional dairy consistency, smooth texture, and pleasant flavor and pro-
foods in Indonesia play considerable roles in preserving vides safety, portability, and novelty to milk nutrients for
milk and improving nutritional value and diversification. the indigenous people of West Sumatra. Dadih is typical-
Indonesia produces 3 types of traditional dairy foods, ly consumed during breakfast with rice after adding sliced
namely the butter-like product minyak samin; yogurt-like shallot and chili (sambal), or it is mixed with palm sugar
product dadih; and cheese-like products dali or bagot in and coconut milk and served as a topping for steamed
horbo, dangke, litsusu, and cologanti. traditional glutinous rice flakes or a corn flake-like prod-
uct called ampiang dadih.5
MINYAK SAMIN (GHEE) The manufacturing method for dadih is similar to that
Minyak samin, a butter-like product produced in Aceh, of dahi in India, except for the heat treatment of raw milk
Northern Sumatra, is manufactured by storing fresh buf- and incorporation of starter cultures. For dahi preparation,
falo milk in an earthenware jar exposed to the sun for 1 raw cow, buffalo, or mixed milk is pasteurized and fer-
hour to separate the cream from the milk serum. A certain mented using dahi leftover from the previous lot as a
amount of grounded Solanum aculeatissinum is added to starter culture.6 Dadih, prepared from buffalo milk, and
coagulate the milk, together with a certain amount of dahi, prepared from cow milk, are Indonesian and Indian
Pandanus amarylifolius to obtain the desired smell. The yogurts, respectively and seem to share the same root
milk allowed to stand another 24–48 hours at room tem- word. The body and texture of yogurt largely depend on
perature, and the cream layer is collected and heated until
the fat on the top layer becomes separable. The fat is then Corresponding Author: Dr Ingrid S Surono, Food Technology
collected into a glass bottle or can and allowed to crystal- Department, Faculty of Engineering, Bina Nusantara University
lize. Minyak samin, a type of butter oil, is white, highly Alam Sutera Campus, Jl. Jalur Sutera Barat Kav. 21, Alam
viscous, and contains 99%–99.5% milk fat and <0.05% Sutera, Serpong-Tangerang 15143, Indonesia.
water.1 Tel.: +622153696919; Fax: +62215300244
Minyak samin manufacturing involves an enzymatic Email: [email protected]; [email protected]
Manuscript accepted 07 December 2015.
reaction catalyzed by a proteolytic enzyme from S. acule-
doi: 10.6133/apjcn.2015.24.s1.05
 Indonesian dairy foods S27

the composition of milk employed in its manufacturing, respectively.12 Surono et al (2014) also reported that a
which is simpler than the process used in Western coun- combination of probiotic Lb. plantarum IS-10506 at 1010
tries.7 CFU/day and 20 mg zinc sulfate monohydrate (8 mg zinc
In Indonesia, dadih is prepared at home by using a tra- elemental) supplementation has potential ability in im-
ditional method involving the milk of water buffaloes. proving zinc status of preschool children as shown by
The milk is neither boiled nor inoculated with any starter significant increase of humoral immune response as well
culture. The fresh unheated buffalo milk is placed in as the improvement of zinc status of the young children in
bamboo tubes covered with banana leaves, incubated at a 90-day randomized double blind placebo-controlled
ambient temperature (25°C–30°C) overnight, and allowed pre–post trial of children aged 12–24 months, a signifi-
to naturally ferment using mesophilic cultures. Fermenta- cant increase of fecal sIgA was observed in probiotic
tion takes 6–18 hours to yield a thick consistency.3 By group, 30.3±3.32 μg/g (p<0.01), and in probiotic and zinc
contrast, yogurt production involves thermophilic cultures, group, 27.6±2.28 μg/g (p<0.027), as compared to placebo
which grow faster at 45°C and require only a 3–4 hour group, 13.6±2.26 μg/g.11
fermentation time. Various indigenous lactic acid bacteria Dadih is easily digestible because of the amino acids
(LAB) are involved in dadih fermentation, which may produced during fermentation. The general chemical
vary depending on the time and place of dadih prepara- composition of dadih is characterized by a higher protein
tion because of natural fermentation.3,7 The microbial and fat content than that of Western-style yogurt, whereas
isolates of dadih have been reported to exhibit probiotic the carbohydrate and moisture content of dadih is consid-
properties. 7,8-12 erably lower than that of Western-style yogurt.13
The process of dadih preparation does not involve good The changes in milk constituents during dadih manu-
hygiene practices; however, no incidence of product fail- facturing are associated with various steps during fermen-
ure or food poisoning has been reported by people who tation. LAB, as a natural contaminant of milk, convert the
consumed dadih.5 Instead, the older generation considers lactose into lactic acid, precipitate milk proteins, and
dadih consumption to be beneficial for health. The afore- form curd and may also produce different metabolites
mentioned probiotic properties of several microbial depending on the involved bacteria. However, the metab-
strains isolated from dadih may provide evidence that olite products generally provide energy for bacterial cell
strong indigenous LAB derived from fresh raw buffalo growth, and lactic acid or carbon dioxide and some vola-
milk aid in combating contaminants, namely spoilage tile compounds are produced. The formation of lactic acid
bacteria and pathogens, during spontaneous fermentation. makes the dadih product sour compared with buffalo milk.
Because heat is not applied to fresh raw buffalo milk Dadih, has a low lactose content because it undergoes
used as the raw material in the homemade manufacturing fermentation, suggesting that many lactose-intolerant
process. Dadih does not meet any national standards such people can consume it. Lactose fermentation for forming
as the National Standard for Yogurt and Indonesia Na- lactic acid is crucial means of for preventing or limiting
tional Standard 2981:2009 or international standards for milk spoilage due to the growth of contaminating bacteria
yogurt and fermented milk, such as the U.S. Federal and their enzyme activity.
Standards of Identity, the standards of the International Lactose is the major carbohydrate in buffalo milk. A
Dairy Federation, or the Codex Standard for Fermented consortium of LAB, which could be homofermentative
Milks, which require pasteurizing the milk.5 and heterofermentative natural starter cultures producing
Dadih is prepared from buffalo milk, and it is a thick lactic acid, with the involvement of beta-galactosidase
product owing to its high total solid content; buffalo milk from lactic starter cultures; as a consequence, coagulates
has a higher fat and casein content than does cow milk. buffalo milk from pH values lower than 5.0, which is
The higher protein content in buffalo milk results in a optimum at pH 4.6. The texture, body, and acidic flavor
custard-like consistency at the end of fermentation and of dadih are attributed to the lactic acid produced during
has characteristics between those of cultured buttermilk fermentation.
and unripened cheese. The texture varies from a rennet- Lactic acid has two critical functions in dadih manufac-
like custard to a creamy and highly viscous liquid de- turing: facilitating the destabilization of casein micelles
pending on the milk solid and fat content. Moreover, a and affording the dadih its distinctive and characteristic
higher fat content enriches the favor of the dadih product sharp and acidic taste.
and contributes to a smoother body and texture. Dadih is Most of the buffalo milk in West Sumatra and nearby
manufactured in bamboo tubes, which are hygroscopic areas is produced in villages by farmers with small land
and prevent whey syneresis. holdings and by landless agricultural laborers mostly in
Comprehending the transformation of buffalo milk into small quantities of 2–4 L per day and by small and mar-
dadih is necessary for understanding its nutritional and ginal farmers in numerous and widely scattered villag-
health properties. The major changes in dadih fermenta- es.14,15 Conditions under which milk is produced in the
tion caused by LAB result in specific health benefits as villages are not satisfactory, mainly because of the low
shown by two probiotic strains of dadih origin. Surono et economic status of the farmers. Hence, a considerable
al (2011) reported E. faecium IS-27526 isolated from portion of the milk is immediately fermented into tradi-
dadih (2.31 × 108 CFU/day) in 125 ml ultra-high tempera- tional dadih because of a lack of refrigeration and trans-
ture low-fat milk significantly increased total salivary portation facilities.
secretory IgA (sIgA) level and bodyweight of the children The water buffalo, as a domesticated cattle animal of
(p<0.05) compared to the placebo after 90 days in under- the bovine subfamily, is fed with natural feed grass free
weight children and in children with normal bodyweight, from antibiotics. Hence, buffalo milk contains no antibi-
S28 IS Surono

otic residue, which may inhibit the growth of the natural which produce small peptide is relatively low and the
starter and cause product failure, and no antibiotic re- milk clotting activity which promote coagulation is at the
sistance of indigenous LAB occurs. maximum, it does not develop a strong bitter taste, on the
addition of an appropriate amount of papaya leaves.16
DALI OR BAGOT NI HORBO Amri and Amboya (2012) reported that heating at low
Dali or bagot ni horbo is a cheese-like traditional Batak temperature for long time (65°C, 30 min) with the addi-
dish from Tapanuli, North Sumatra, with a yellowish tion of 5 g papain in manufacturing dangke resulted in
white appearance, tofu-like texture, and milky flavor. bitterness.18
According to the language of the ethnic groups of Batak, Fresh dangke is white and has an elastic texture when
bagot, ni, and horbo mean “milk,” of and “buffalo,” re- prepared from buffalo milk. To increase the curd yield,
spectively. Its commercial name is dali or dali ni horbo. tapioca, rice, or wheat flour is added, resulting in pale
Manufacturing dali is simple; fresh buffalo milk is slowly yellow dangke with no elastic texture. The moisture con-
boiled in a pan, with continuous stirring, and a certain tent of dangke is lower than that of dali because the whey
amount (approximately 5.0%–6.0%, v/v) of fresh pineap- is removed from the curd by strongly pressing it in the
ple juice or papaya (Carica papaya) leaf juice is added to coconut shell. Hence, dangke has a longer storage dura-
the boiled milk and continuously stirred until the milk is tion (3 days) than does dali (12 hours) with the addition
coagulated. The whey is then removed.16 Natives of Ta- of salt, at room temperature.
panuli use fresh unripe pineapple juice as a coagulant
because it yields yellowish white dali, whereas papaya COLOGANTI AND LITSUSU
leaf juice yields greenish white dali having a slightly bit- In East and West Nusatenggara, natives have used various
ter taste. coagulants from tropical plants for manufacturing tradi-
Milk may coagulate because of both the action of pro- tional cheese, and enzymes from the litsusu tree are the
teolytic enzymes of pineapple juice and acidity of the most commonly used because they are extremely effec-
unripe pineapple. Bromelain is a proteolytic enzyme of tive in coagulating milk.19
pineapple, and the pH of pineapple juice is 3.2–3.5. The In West Nusatenggara, a cheese-like product called co-
moisture content of dali is higher than that of dangke be- loganti is traditionally manufactured from buffalo milk.
cause after milk coagulation, a pressing procedure is not Each district has a different name for cologanti; in East
performed.17 Lombok, it is called perah, and in the Bima district, it is
The tradition of processing buffalo milk into dali is called cologanti, susu kaya, segan jadi, or pesjadi. In
considered to be started by the ancestors of the Batak West Nusatenggara area, cattle is more extensively bred
community. In restaurants in Batak, dali is the main dish than it is in other districts because of the severe tropical
on the menu. Natives consume dali after boiling and mix- climate and for combating dryness throughout the year.
ing it with seasoning ingredients, such as salt, turmeric, Therefore, manufacturing litsusu is a daily task and ex-
onion, and chili. Some people also cook dali with cassava tremely crucial for providing a proteinous food source for
leaves, and some fry it. the natives.
Cologanti manufacturing entails using various coagu-
DANGKE lants from tropical plants, such as papaya leaves, unripe
Dangke, a buffalo milk product from South Sulawesi, is a pineapple juice, Ficus sp, latex from Calotropis gigantea
traditional cheese produced since 1905.1 It is mainly pro- (rembega), bark from Calotropis mangkas (ridi tree), la-
duced in the Enrekang, Baraka, Anggeraja, and Alla dis- tex from Planconella oxinela (jeliti tree), Solanum
tricts of South Sulawesi.16 melongena extract, Solanum torvum juice, and Mimosa
The name dangke is derived from “dank u wel,” which pudica leaf extract.
in Dutch means “thank you very much.” According to Natives of East Nusa Tenggara observed that the bark
local stories, natives presented this product to the Dutch of Wrightiana calysina, called pohon litsusu (the litsusu
on their first visit to South Sulawesi and subsequently tree), produces ample latex and effectively coagulates
said “dank je,” a shortened form of “dank u wel.” milk. In Timor island, cologanti is manufactured in the
Dangke is processed by heating freshly drawn buffalo following manner: the bark of pohon litsusu is added to
milk in a small fire until it boils. A certain amount of 2–3 L of milk in bamboo tubes at less than 40°C and al-
sliced leaves, stems, or unripe fruits of the papaya is then lowed to stand for 2–3 hours. After milk coagulation, the
added; the mixture is stirred for approximately 15 whey is removed by squeezing the curd with the fingers.
minutes, and consequently, the milk protein clots. The The curd is then molded into a hemispherical shape and
clot is kept in a mold made of a coconut shell and pressed dried in the sun for 1 hour. The dried curd is called litsusu.
to separate the liquid. Adding an excessive amount of Cologanti and litsusu manufacturing may involve mi-
leaves, stems, or unripe fruits of the papaya confers a crobes derived from bamboo tubes, plant proteolytic en-
strong bitter taste to dangke due to small peptide genera- zymes from the litsusu tree, and other plant coagulants.
tion. Khusniati et al (2004) reported that increasing litsusu
Therefore, to improve the storage duration and sensory enzyme concentrations increased the weight of the curd
qualities, dangke is typically soaked in a brine solution but reduced the whey. Moreover, increasing litsusu en-
overnight before being wrapped with banana leaves for zyme concentrations reduced the coagulation activity of
masking the bitter taste caused by the addition of papaya litsusu. Adding 1 g/50 mL litsusu tree enzyme yielded
leaves. Surono et al (1983) reported that because dangke litsusu with the desired physical and chemical characteris-
is manufactured at 90 °C, at which the proteolytic activity tics.20
 Indonesian dairy foods S29

Hosono et al (1983) reported that 6.0 and 70°C were lactic acid bacteria. Asian–Australasian Journal of Animal
the optimum pH and temperature, respectively, for milk Sciences. 2003;16:726-31.
coagulation, suggesting that enzyme activity results in 11. Surono IS, Martono PD, Kameo S, Suradji EW, Koyama H.
milk coagulation.19 Moreover, acidic curd has a coarser Effect of probiotic L. plantarum IS-10506 and zinc
supplementation on humoral immune response and zinc
structure than do curds prepared by coagulating milk with
status of Indonesian pre-school children. J Trace Elem Med
either rennet or litsusu extracts, as observed through
Biol. 2014;28:465-9. doi: 10.1016/j.jtemb.2014.07.009.
scanning electron micrography. 12. Surono IS, Koestomo FP, Novitasari N, Zakaria, FR,
Yulianasari, Koesnandar. Novel probiotic Enterococcus
AUTHOR DISCLOSURES faecium IS-27526 supplementation increased total salivary
The author declares that there is no conflict of interest. sIgA level and bodyweight of pre-school children: a pilot
study. Anaerobe. 2011;17:496-500.
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S30 IS Surono

Review Article

Traditional Indonesian dairy foods

Ingrid S Surono MSc, PhD

Food Technology Department, Faculty of Engineering, Bina Nusantara University, Alam Sutera Campus,
Serpong-Tangerang, Indonesia

傳統印尼乳製品

印尼是全球最大的群島，具有最豐富的生物多樣性國家之一，並擁有最多元的
料理及傳統發酵食物。印尼有三種傳統的乳製品，名為類奶油製品 minyak
samin；類優格製品 dadih；及類起士製品 dali 或 bagot in horbo（水牛奶）、
dangke、 litsusu 及 cologanti，這些反映出印尼乳製品消費特有的文化。

關 鍵 字 ： 印 尼 乳 製 品 、 minyak samin 、 dadih 、 dali 、 dangke 、 litsusu 、

cologanti