Tin Can

1
Tin Can Stirling hot air engine

Thank you for purchasing the Tin Can plans. I hope they are informative enough
to get you through the whole project. If you have any questions email them to elnz@
net-
link.net . I will try to answer them in my free time. Thanks again and have fun.
One note before you get started. When you’re working with tin cans its best to
wear gloves. These cans can be very very sharp when cut and some of the operations
require a little persuading and can easily slip and cut you. Be very careful. Be
forewarned I will not be liable for your actions and safety precautions .
I’ve included the “Stirling Formula” page in case you can’t find all the right size cans.
You want to make sure you follow this formula fairly close or your engine may not run.
Also, the clearance between the displacer piston and displacer can should be as close as
you can get it without touching the sidewall. Most of the ones I’ve put together had
about 1/16th to about 1/8th inch clearance depending on the cans. More than 1/8th inch
creates a lot of dead space and won’t run as well or possibly not at all.
The power piston and cylinder should be a very close fit. You want as little leakage here
as possible. I used a 1 1/8th inch aluminum tube with a .062 wall thickness. This allows
for a 1 inch piston to fit fairly nice. If you have access to a small machine shop this
would be helpful for sizing it. If you don’t….. You can find a 1” piece of aluminum
(solid) and use sand paper to size it. It should fit snug but travel through the tube without
any drag or very little. You can use a light oil to make it slide smoothly.
When gluing the parts together I mention the use of JB Weld. This works very well,
there are other brands out there that work well also so if the JB brand isn’t available use
PC-7 or something equivalent. I use the JB Quick because it sets up in about 4 minutes;
the other takes 24 hours to completely set up. Unless you have a lot of patience and a lot
of time to hold parts use the JB Quick.
Drawing 3 shows the Burner pot made from a coffee can. It states to use Hi temp
silicone around the top edge. You want to make sure the cylinder and displacer can is
positioned in the motor mount board prior to doing this. If you glue it without
positioning it in the motor mount the burner pot could be to high or too low. There is no
real need to seal this can if you choose not to. If you do decide to seal it and lock it in
place do it after the unit is mounted.
Drawing 4 shows the “Cooling can” made from another coffee can. This unit can be
installed prior to mounting the engine and you should check it for leaks. You will put
water, ice or snow in it to keep the cold side cold. The colder you can keep it the faster it
will run.
Drawing 5 shows the “Displacer piston”. This is made from 2 beer can bottoms. When
pressing the two pieces together use some JB to assure a good seal and that the parts
2
won’t come apart when running. Try to get the center

hole as close to center as possible. If you’re off by a
little it could mean the piston will drag along the
displacer cylinder wall and create friction not allowing
it to run properly. Instead of threading the rod you can
use JB weld to seal both openings where the rod will
be inserted. If you have a threaded end use a nut and
JB weld to hold it. This is just a precaussion to assure
the rod and can won’t come apart.
Drawing 6 shows the Displacer can top and rod

bushing. This is made of a bolt with a 1/8th inch hole
drilled down the center. You want to make sure the
rod slides freely through the hold without binding and
also not sloppy enough to create a leak. This rod gets
light oil for lubrication and sealing.
Drawing 7 shows the placement of the Displacer can

top. I usually smear some JB weld around the can top
inside and around the larger piece where the can will contact the can then slide the unit
together. Its best to insert the unit without any JB first and work the displacer rod and
piston up and down to make sure there are no binds or dragging going on. This is the
time to find them … after its glued you can’t fix it. After the top is pushed into place and
glued mix up a batch of JB and smear it around the outside allowing it to build up so no
edges are showing. After the JB has set up blow into the power piston hole and listen for
leaks, If you hear a leak find it and seal it with JB again.
Drawing 8 shows the sizes of the wood base, backing, engine mount etc. These are
basically a general layout and none of the dimensions are set in stone. If your cans are
different in size then you must cut the wood accordingly. The same is true for Drawing
8.1
Finalizing you motor with the rods. I used all 1/8th inch brass stock and threaded the ends
and made my own ends. An easier way would be to visit your local Hobby shop and use
the rods they have already made up. They also sell the slick little threaded ends that
screw right on. The timing is set already because the displacer rod and power piston is
set at 90 degrees from each other and the mounting on the flywheel is shared by both
rods.
The following are some pictures that will aid in the placement of the rod connections and
other parts. Notice this engine has separate mounts for all the different components. The
better way is to combine the mounting brackets into two pieces. This motor is shaky
when running at high speeds. When all the mounting boards are combined this cures the
problem.
This shows the configuration of attaching the displacer

3
rod. This was done using a 1/8th inch brass welding rod bent to line up with the walking
beam. You must use a link to keep the geometry correct otherwise a direct connection
will cause the displacer rod to bind.
The rod ends don’t have to be threaded, you can drill through a small piece of plastic, aluminum or whatever you have and glue
with JB weld. Also, ends could be made from an L bracket material of some sort. Let your creativity flow… this isn’t a
precision piece of machinery only a sample of how easy it is to make one of these engines.
4
This picture shows the general layout, front and back view of the machine.
5
I’m not sure if it helps but they say a picture is worth a thousand words so here is the top
view for reference.
This is a view of the piston and rod. A basic straight blade screwdriver screw is threaded
into the piston. The screw has a brass tube attached to it for mounting the piston rod.
This can be soldered, brazed, or even glued with JB weld. Make sure all the connections
are cleaned and sanded.
6
This is a basic view of the crankshaft/flywheel connections along with the piston
connection.
Well… get started…. Have fun and be creative… remember nothing here is set in stone
a few alterations won’t change the way it runs.
If you find you have a problem figuring something out and it’s not in here please let me
know and I will try to clarify it for you and add it to the next set. Thanks and once again
have fun and always remember SAFETY FIRST.
Edwin Lenz
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17

Tin Can

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Tin Can

Uploaded by

Document Information

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Tin Can

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

1

Tin Can Stirling hot air engine

won’t come apart when running. Try to get the center

Drawing 6 shows the Displacer can top and rod

Drawing 7 shows the placement of the Displacer can

This shows the configuration of attaching the displacer

You might also like