Estimating Cut Grade 0booklet

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Estimating a

Cut Grade Using


the GIA Diamond
Cut Grading System
This booklet summarizes the main concepts of the GIA Cut Grading System
for round brilliant diamonds. It is intended to help members of the jewelry trade better
understand the attributes of diamond appearance, and how those attributes are evaluated
within the GIA Cut Grading System.

The GIA Cut Grading System for standard round brilliant factors such as Brightness, Fire, and Scintillation
diamonds (D to Z colors only, 0.15 carat and larger) was (including sub-components such as sparkle and pattern).
launched on GIA Laboratory grading reports in January Weight Ratio and Durability are considered in evaluating
2006. Standard round brilliant diamonds are evaluated for the Design. Polish and Symmetry are components of
one of five possible cut grades: Excellent, Very Good, Craftsmanship. The GIA Cut Grading System is a
Good, Fair, and Poor. “deductive” system in which a diamond’s cumulative cut
grade is determined by the lowest value for any one of
The cut grade is determined from a combination of measured the seven components.
parameters and visual observations. Table Size (%),
Pavilion Angle, Crown Angle, Lower Half Length (%), The GIA Cut Grading System is based on a combination of
Star Length (%), Girdle Thickness (%), Culet Size (%), computer modeling (of diamond appearance), predictive
and degree of painting and/or digging out are all metrics, and observations of the appearance of actual
measured. Symmetry, Polish, Girdle Thickness (verbal diamonds. GIA applied ray-tracing to theoretically perfect
description), and Culet Size (verbal description) are diamonds to model light paths and to predict the varying
evaluated visually by Laboratory grading staff. The degrees of brightness (light return) and fire (dispersion)
combination allows the Face-up Appearance (the bright- exhibited by round brilliant diamonds. Then researchers
ness, fire, and scintillation—especially pattern—seen compared those results with comprehensive observation
when viewing a diamond), Design (the weight ratio— testing of actual diamonds using members of the trade
which prevents “thick makes,” and the durability— and public. Observations helped determine thresholds for
related to “knife-edge” or extremely thin girdles), and brightness, fire, and pattern metrics, where certain
Craftsmanship (the care in execution seen in the diamonds appeared less attractive than the reference
diamond’s polish and symmetry) to be evaluated in a diamonds representing a grade range. GIA used the
consistent manner. Within the GIA Cut Grading System, results of the observation testing to set the boundaries of
Face-up Appearance is further broken down into visual the five grades.

© 2009 The Gemological Institute of America. All rights reserved. 1


Estimating a Cut Grade Using the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System

As with other areas of diamond grading, the accurate and grade that a particular standard round brilliant diamond
consistent assessment of face-up cut appearance requires a would receive from GIA, based on GIA’s examination
standardized lighting and viewing environment. and measurement of the diamond’s proportions and
other limiting parameters.
Keep in mind that the GIA Cut Grading System guides
consumers toward the diamonds with the most commonly • Using a non-contact proportion measurement device.
preferred appearances. To better appreciate that a This device measures the diamond and estimates a GIA
diamond may look different under different types of cut grade with the GIA Facetware® in one operation.
lighting, someone considering a diamond purchase should
look at the gem in a variety of lighting environments. The actual overall cut grade received from the GIA
This lets them choose the diamond with the look that they Laboratory for a diamond may differ from that
personally deem the most pleasing to their own eyes. predicted by the GIA Facetware® for the following
reasons:
There are several ways to estimate a GIA Cut Grade • The diamond’s actual measured proportions (e.g., the
for a standard round brilliant cut diamond. crown angle) or grading parameters (e.g., the symmetry)
as determined by GIA are different than those used as
• Using GIA Facetware® online (http://facetware.gia.edu). input by Facetware®.
The user inputs accurate diamond proportion measure-
ments into this free online software program to obtain • The accuracy and tolerances of different measurement
an estimate of the cut grade. Such measurements can methodologies (including optical) that are used in the
be derived from a non-contact measuring device, a trade may differ from those used by GIA to measure
millimeter gauge, a Proportionscope, or by other visual proportions.
means using a microscope. Visual estimation techniques
to evaluate round brilliant diamond proportions taught • The displayed girdle thickness and/or total depth (when
by GIA Education can also help. Examples of look-up not entered by the user) is derived from other input
tables for cut grades used for GIA Facetware® are proportions. In some cases, this may lead to girdle
repeated in GIA’s Diamond Grading Lab Manual, thickness and/or total depth values that are different than
available through the GIA Education Department. The the actual values due to rounding and/or conversion from
Facetware® Cut Estimator predicts the overall cut verbal descriptions (culet size and girdle thickness).

©2009 The Gemological Institute of America. All rights reserved. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) grants you a one-time, non-exclusive license to
reproduce in print form this booklet solely for non-commercial, private use to reference the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System within an individual organization.
This booklet may also be reproduced and used electronically in circumstances where such use is limited to the private, internal business use by the individual or
firm to whom GIA provides the material. The material may not be modified in any way. GIA retains all rights to the material, and all other use is prohibited without
the express, written permission of GIA.

Revised December 2009

Contributors: T. Blodgett, R. Geurts, A. Gilbertson, A. Lucas, D. Pay, I. Reinitz, J. Shigley, K. Yantzer, C. Zink
Editor: Brooke Goedert Design and layout: Richard Canedo, Al Gilbertson

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Estimating a Cut Grade Using the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System

Grading System Definitions


Brightness is the result of all internal and external reflec-
tions of white light. Note that if there is light leakage
through the pavilion facets due to the chosen proportions,
there is less light reflected through the crown facets
making the diamond appear less bright.

Fire results when white light is dispersed into its spectral


colors, which appear to the observer as areas of extremely
bright and distinct colors.

Scintillation is a combination of:

1) Sparkle is the appearance or extent of spots of white


or colored light that flash as the diamond, the observer,
Durability is the potential risk of damage due to vulner-
or the light source moves.
able thin girdles or points. GIA does not consider a
2) Pattern is the relative size, arrangement, and contrast shallow crown a durability risk unless the girdle thickness
of bright and dark areas that result from a diamond’s is very thin. Unusually thin girdles create a high risk for
internal and external reflections when it is viewed damage in normal jewelry wear.
face-up. Note that pattern is also affected by light
Polish describes the quality of the surface condition of
leakage; the manner in which it is affected depends on
the facets of a diamond.
the overall proportion combination. Pattern includes
aspects of tilt, such as at what point of tilt a “fish-eye” Symmetry is the exactness of the shape of a diamond,
pattern appears to the observer. Culet size is part of and the symmetrical arrangement and even placement of
pattern since a very large culet would be a light or dark the facets. Symmetry has two aspects:
spot in the center of the pattern.
1) Proportion symmetry is an evaluation of the align-
Weight Ratio is a comparison of a diamond's weight to its ment and balance of the stone’s table, culet, girdle
diameter. A diamond can have too much or too little outline, and angles.
weight for its diameter. The girdle thickness is an impor-
tant factor for weight ratio if the thickness adds a 2) Facet symmetry is an evaluation of the shape, place-
substantial increase in weight. Total depth percentage ment, and presence or absence of the facets
helps evaluate the weight ratio (see the Parameter Tables). themselves.
star length
star length
table size
table size crown
d crown
angle angle
a crown height crown height
e
girdle girdle
b
thickness thickness
f total total
depth depth
pavilion
pavilion pavilion
angle pavilion
depth angle
depth
a — bezel facet d — star facet
c e — upper half facet lower
b — girdle lower girdle facet or
f — lower half facet
c — pavilion main girdle facet or lower half facet
facet lower half facet length
length culet size
culet size

The facets and proportions of a standard round brilliant include GIA Diamond Grading Reports include a graphic scaled to depict
bezel facet, girdle, pavilion main facet, star facet, star facet length, the actual parameters of the following factors: table size, crown
upper half facet (or upper girdle facet), table size, crown angle, angle, pavilion angle, crown height, pavilion depth, star length, lower
crown height, girdle thickness, pavilion angle, pavilion depth, lower half length, girdle thickness, culet size, and total depth.
half facet (or lower girdle facet), lower half facet length, culet size,
pavilion depth, and total depth.

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Estimating a Cut Grade Using the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System

Parameter Tables
The following tables provide ranges of individual limiting GIA provides additional charts—not included here (See
parameters for each GIA cut grade. However, the GIA GIA’s Diamond Grading Lab Manual, available from
Cut Grading System also considers a round brilliant GIA Education)—showing that certain combinations of
diamond’s proportions together as well as individually. angles and table percentages also lower the grade further.
Even though all of a diamond’s parameters might be A diamond’s cut grade can also be affected by severe
within the limits for a particular grade, a diamond might tilting of the upper or lower half facets, known in the
actually receive a lower cut grade when the parameters diamond trade as painting or digging (see the “Finish,
interact in a negative way to lessen a diamond’s appear- Culet Size and Girdle Thickness; Categories of the GIA
ance. The interactions of the table percentage, crown
Diamond Cut Grading System” chart).
angle, and pavilion angle are especially critical. If two or
more of these parameters are close to their respective
grade boundaries, their interaction will probably lower NOTE: Finish—polish and symmetry— along with girdle
the diamond’s cut grade. thickness and culet size are evaluated visually and
recorded as verbal descriptions. A diamond’s polish and
symmetry ratings can be one grade lower than its cut
Further, the limits for crown height and total depth are
without affecting the final cut grade (see the “Finish, Culet
applied to derived values based on rounded key propor-
tions, rather than on the direct measurements of these two Size and Girdle Thickness; Categories of the GIA
quantities. This insures that GIA cut grades are Diamond Cut Grading System” chart).
predictable from rounded proportions and that diamonds
with the same rounded proportions and verbal calls will Please see GIA’s Diamond Grading Lab Manual for
obtain the same grade. further information.

Table Size Crown Angle


Possible Grade Parameter Range Possible Grade Parameter Range
Excellent to Poor 52% to 62% Excellent to Poor 31.5º to 36.5º
Very Good to Poor 50% to 66% Very Good to Poor 26.5º to 38.5º
Good to Poor 47% to 69% Good to Poor 22.0º to 40.0º
Fair to Poor 44% to 72% Fair to Poor 20.0º to 41.5º
Poor <44% to >72% Poor <20.0º to >41.5º

Pavilion Angle Culet Size


Possible Grade Parameter Range Possible Grade Parameter Range
Excellent to Poor 40.6º to 41.8º Excellent to Poor none to small
Very Good to Poor 39.8º to 42.4º Very Good to Poor none to medium
Good to Poor 38.8º to 43.0º Good to Poor none to large
Fair to Poor 37.4º to 44.0º Fair to Poor none to very large
Poor <37.4º to >44.0º Poor none to extremely large

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Estimating a Cut Grade Using the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System

Star Facet Length Lower Half Facet Length


Possible Grade Parameter Range Possible Grade Parameter Range
Excellent to Poor 45% to 65% Excellent to Poor 70% to 85%
Very Good to Poor 40% to 70% Very Good to Poor 65% to 90%
Good to Poor any value Good to Poor any value
Fair to Poor any value Fair to Poor any value
Poor any value Poor any value

Girdle Thickness % Girdle Thickness Verbal Description


Thickest Portion
Possible Grade Parameter Range

Extremely

Extremely
Medium

Slightly
Thick

Thick

Thick
Thick
Very

Very
Thin

Thin

Thin
Excellent
2.5%* to 4.5%
to Poor Extremely Very Very Very Very Very
Good Good Fair
Very Good Thin Good Good Good Good Good
up to 5.5% Very Very Very Very Very Very
to Poor Good Fair
Thin Good Good Good Good Good
Good to Poor up to 7.5% Very
Thin Excellent Excellent Excellent Good Fair
Thinnest Portion

Good
Very
Medium Excellent Excellent Good Fair
Fair to Poor up to 10.5% Good
Slightly Very
Excellent Good Fair
Thick Good
Poor any value Very
Thick Good Fair
Good
*Grade range limits for girdle thickness of Very
Thick
Good Fair
less than 2.5% are nearly always determined
by verbal description. Extremely
Thick
Fair

Polish Symmetry
Possible Grade Polish Grade Possible Grade Symmetry Grade
Excellent to Poor Excellent Excellent to Poor Excellent
Excellent to Poor Very Good Excellent to Poor Very Good
Very Good to Poor Good Very Good to Poor Good
Good to Poor Fair Good to Poor Fair
Poor Poor Poor Poor

Crown Height Total Depth


Possible Grade Parameter Range Possible Grade Parameter Range
Excellent to Poor 12.5% to 17.0% Excellent to Poor 57.5% to 63.0%
Very Good to Poor 10.5% to 18.0% Very Good to Poor 56.0% to 64.5%
Good to Poor 9.0% to 19.5% Good to Poor 53.0% to 66.5%
Fair to Poor 7.0% to 21.0% Fair to Poor 51.9% to 70.9%
Poor <7.0% to >21.0% Poor <51.9% to >70.9%

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Estimating a Cut Grade Using the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System

The five sets of virtual images shown on pages 6 –10 Table size: 53%
demonstrate face-up static patterns associated with the Crown angle: 34.5°
appearance of each of the five cut grades as seen under Pavilion angle: 40.8°
Star length: 55%
identical lighting and viewing conditions, and are best Lower half length: 80%
understood when seen as the diamond is rocked or tilted. Girdle thickness: 2.5%
(Medium)
Culet size: None

EXCELLENT
Total depth: 62.5%
Polish: VG
Symmetry: EX
Pavilion depth: 43.0%
Crown height: 16.0%
CUT GRADE An even distribution of bright
and dark patterns typifies the
best looking diamonds. Here,
the pavilion main facets reflect
dark, but the areas surrounding
them are bright.

Table size: 57% Table size: 57%


Crown angle: 35.5° Crown angle: 32.0°
Pavilion angle: 40.8° Pavilion angle: 41.6°
Star length: 55% Star length: 55%
Lower half length: 80% Lower half length: 80%
Girdle thickness: 3.0% Girdle thickness: 2.5%
(Medium) (Slightly Thin to Medium)
Culet size: None Culet size: None
Total depth: 61.2% Total depth: 60.5%
Polish: EX Polish: VG
Symmetry: VG Symmetry: EX
Pavilion depth: 43.0% Pavilion depth: 44.5%
Crown height: 15.5% Crown height: 13.5%

An even distribution of bright An even distribution of bright


and dark patterns typifies the and dark patterns typifies the
best looking diamonds. The best looking diamonds. The
balanced even reflection balanced even reflection
pattern is more visible when pattern is more visible when
the diamond is in movement. the diamond is in movement.

Table size: 59% Table size: 61%


Crown angle: 35.0° Crown angle: 33.0°
Pavilion angle: 41.0° Pavilion angle: 41.2°
Star length: 55% Star length: 55%
Lower half length: 80% Lower half length: 80%
Girdle thickness: 3.5% Girdle thickness: 2.5%
(Medium) (Medium)
Culet size: None Culet size: None
Total depth: 61.2% Total depth: 59.2%
Polish: EX Polish: VG
Symmetry: EX Symmetry: EX
Pavilion depth: 43.5% Pavilion depth: 43.5%
Crown height: 14.5% Crown height: 12.5%

An even distribution of bright Diamonds with large table


and dark patterns typifies the facets only have a few
best looking diamonds. The proportion combinations that
balanced even reflection contribute to an appearance
pattern is more visible when that qualifies them for the
the diamond is in movement. Excellent cut grade.

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Estimating a Cut Grade Using the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System

Table size: 53%


Crown angle: 34.5°
Pavilion angle: 40.8°
Star length: 55%
Lower half length: 80%
Girdle thickness: 4.5%
(Slightly Thick to Thick)
Culet size: Medium
Total depth: 64.2%

VERY GOOD Polish: VG


Symmetry: EX
Pavilion depth: 43.0%
Crown height: 16.0%
CUT GRADE All parameters are within the
Excellent range except total
depth, girdle thickness, and
culet size. The face-up appear-
ance may be as good as those
in the Excellent range, but the
diamond has too much weight
for its diameter.

Table size: 53% Table size: 57%


Crown angle: 30.0° Crown angle: 29.0°
Pavilion angle: 41.4° Pavilion angle: 41.8°
Star length: 55% Star length: 55%
Lower half length: 80% Lower half length: 80%
Girdle thickness: 3.5% Girdle thickness: 2.5%
(Medium) (Thin to Medium)
Culet size: None Culet size: None
Total depth: 60.9% Total depth: 59.8%
Polish: VG Polish: VG
Symmetry: VG Symmetry: EX
Pavilion depth: 44.0% Pavilion depth: 44.5%
Crown height: 13.5% Crown height: 12.0%

A shallower crown angle tends While a shallower crown angle


to darken the overall appearance darkens the overall appearance
of the diamond. The pattern of of a diamond, the larger table
darker reflected main facets is opens the diamond up,
somewhat prominent. brightening it, but altering the
reflection pattern from that
created by a smaller table
(see above).

Table size: 57% Table size: 61%


Crown angle: 37.5° Crown angle: 31.0°
Pavilion angle: 40.2° Pavilion angle: 41.4°
Star length: 55% Star length: 55%
Lower half length: 80% Lower half length: 80%
Girdle thickness: 3.5% Girdle thickness: 3.5%
(Medium) (Medium)
Culet size: None Culet size: None
Total depth: 62.2% Total depth: 59.0%
Polish: VG Polish: VG
Symmetry: VG Symmetry: VG
Pavilion depth: 42.0% Pavilion depth: 44.0%
Crown height: 16.5% Crown height: 11.5%

Producing a pattern of The slightly shallower crown


darkened main facet reflections angle (compared to the Excellent
with a steeper crown angle is image at left) contributes to a
accomplished by lowering the slight overall darkening of the
pavilion angle. The overall result diamond’s appearance.
is a slight darkening of the
diamond’s general appearance.

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Estimating a Cut Grade Using the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System

Table size: 53%


Crown angle: 32.0°
Pavilion angle: 42.8°
Star length: 55%
Lower half length: 80%
Girdle thickness: 3.5%
(Medium)
Culet size: None
Total depth: 64.2%

GOOD Polish: VG
Symmetry: EX
Pavilion depth: 46.5%
Crown height: 14.5%

CUT GRADE While this diamond is some-


what bright, it lacks a strong
or distinct reflection pattern.

Table size: 57% Table size: 57%


Crown angle: 33.5° Crown angle: 33.5°
Pavilion angle: 39.6° Pavilion angle: 42.8°
Star length: 55% Star length: 55%
Lower half length: 80% Lower half length: 80%
Girdle thickness: 3.0% Girdle thickness: 3.5%
(Medium) (Medium to Slightly Thick)
Culet size: None Culet size: None
Total depth: 58.8% Total depth: 63.8%
Polish: VG Polish: VG
Symmetry: EX Symmetry: EX
Pavilion depth: 41.5% Pavilion depth: 46.5%
Crown height: 14.0% Crown height: 14.0%

The shallower pavilion angle This diamond lacks a strong or


contributes to the darker distinct reflection pattern.
reflection pattern seen in this
diamond.

Table size: 61% Table size: 61%


Crown angle: 33.5° Crown angle: 31.0°
Pavilion angle: 39.6° Pavilion angle: 41.4°
Star length: 55% Star length: 55%
Lower half length: 80% Lower half length: 80%
Girdle thickness: 3.0% Girdle thickness: 3.5%
(Medium) (Medium)
Culet size: None Culet size: None
Total depth: 57.5% Total depth: 60.0%
Polish: G Polish: VG
Symmetry: EX Symmetry: VG
Pavilion depth: 41.0% Pavilion depth: 44.0%
Crown height: 13.0% Crown height: 11.5%

The shallow pavilion angle The grade is lowered due to


darkens this diamond, creating digging out on the pavilion
a strong, dark reflection pattern. which radically changes the
face-up view of the diamond
on the left, changing its pattern
and darkening its appearance.

8
Estimating a Cut Grade Using the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System

Table size: 53%


Crown angle: 30.0°
Pavilion angle: 39.4°
Star length: 55%
Lower half length: 80%
Girdle thickness: 5.5%
(Thick)
Culet size: None
Total depth: 59.8%

FAIR Polish: VG
Symmetry: VG
Pavilion depth: 41.0%
Crown height: 13.5%

CUT GRADE The overall dark appearance is


a result of the shallow pavilion
and crown angles.

Table size: 57% Table size: 57%


Crown angle: 24.0° Crown angle: 40.0°
Pavilion angle: 40.2° Pavilion angle: 43.0°
Star length: 55% Star length: 50%
Lower half length: 85% Lower half length: 70%
Girdle thickness: 3.0% Girdle thickness: 2.5%
(Medium) (Thin)
Culet size: None Culet size: None
Total depth: 54.8% Total depth: 68.2%
Polish: VG Polish: VG
Symmetry: G Symmetry: G
Pavilion depth: 42.0% Pavilion depth: 46.5%
Crown height: 9.5% Crown height: 18.0%

The extremely shallow crown This diamond lacks life and is


angle is a major cause of the quite unattractive, a result of
darkness seen under the table the steep crown and pavilion
in this diamond. The culet is angles. The diamond is also
off-center. slightly out of round.

Table size: 57% Table size: 61%


Crown angle: 33.5° Crown angle: 26.0°
Pavilion angle: 42.8° Pavilion angle: 39.8°
Star length: 55% Star length: 45%
Lower half length: 70% Lower half length: 85%
Girdle thickness: 8.0% Girdle thickness: 4.0%
(Extremely Thick) (Slightly Thick)
Culet size: None Culet size: None
Total depth: 68.5% Total depth: 55.2%
Polish: VG Polish: VG
Symmetry: F Symmetry: G
Pavilion depth: 46.5% Pavilion depth: 41.5%
Crown height: 14.0% Crown height: 9.5%

While the general proportions The shallow crown and pavilion


would cause this diamond to angles are the primary cause
fall into the Good range (even of the overall darkness in this
though it is out-of-round and diamond. The culet is also
the culet is off-center), the slightly off-center.
extremely thick girdle lowers
the diamond into the Fair range.

9
Estimating a Cut Grade Using the GIA Diamond Cut Grading System

Table size: 48%


Crown angle: 39.0°
Pavilion angle: 42.0°
Star length: 55%
Lower half length: 80%
Girdle thickness: 5.5%
(Thick)
Culet size: None
Total depth: 71.3%

POOR Polish: G
Symmetry: VG
Pavilion depth: 45.0%
Crown height: 21.0%
CUT GRADE The unusual face-up pattern
(culet reflections seen in the
main facets) is a result of the
extreme crown angle and
small table size. The culet is
also off-center.

Table size: 50% Table size: 57%


Crown angle: 40.0° Crown angle: 40.0°
Pavilion angle: 41.0° Pavilion angle: 43.0°
Star length: 55% Star length: 55%
Lower half length: 70% Lower half length: 75%
Girdle thickness: 5.5% Girdle thickness: 5.5%
(Thick) (Thick)
Culet size: None Culet size: None
Total depth: 69.7% Total depth: 69.8%
Polish: G Polish: G
Symmetry: VG Symmetry: F
Pavilion depth: 43.5% Pavilion depth: 46.5%
Crown height: 21.0% Crown height: 12.5%

Although proportions are The steep crown angle and


similar to the diamond above, other proportions would cause
the shorter lower half facets this to be Fair, except that this
cause a dramatic difference in diamond has extreme digging
appearance. on the pavilion, the culet is
off-center and the diamond is
slightly out-of-round.

Table size: 57% Table size: 60%


Crown angle: 41.0° Crown angle: 41.5°
Pavilion angle: 44.0° Pavilion angle: 43.4°
Star length: 55% Star length: 65%
Lower half length: 80% Lower half length: 85%
Girdle thickness: 5.5% Girdle thickness: 5.0%
(Thick) (Slightly Thick to Thick)
Culet size: None Culet size: None
Total depth: 72.2% Total depth: 70.2%
Polish: G Polish: G
Symmetry: F Symmetry: G
Pavilion depth: 48.5% Pavilion depth: 47.5%
Crown height: 12.5% Crown height: 17.5%

The steep pavilion angle and The steep crown angle,


crown angle create a dark pavilion angle, and large star
appearance. The culet is also facets combine to make a
off-center. dark center and unusual
pattern in this diamond.

10

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