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SKIN CARE
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VEGETABLE OILS AND FATS

IMCD Business Group Personal Care

Value through expertise

Switserland
Introduction 3 Macadamia Nut Oil 17
Apricot Kernel Oil 8 Mango Kernel Butter 18
Avocado Oil 9 Passion Flower Oil 19
Castor Oil 10 Rice Bran Oil 20
Cocoa Butter 11 Safflower Oil 21
Evening Primrose Oil 12 Sesame Oil 22
Gold of Pleasure Oil 13 Shea Butter 23
Grape Seed Oil 14 Shorea Butter 24
Hazelnut Oil 15 Sweet Almond Oil 25
Jojoba Oil 16 Wheat Germ 26
INTRODUCTION

Since the early days of mankind, vegetable oils and fats have been
used to treat the skin to retain its natural beauty and to cure skin
disorders. Depending on the locally available plant resources and the
experience gathered over ages, each tribe or region got used to its
own specific and preferred oils and fats.

Western civilization has successfully exploited a structures were discovered. Due to the increasing
number of these oils which became readily available demand for natural, non-animal derived products as
as reasonably priced food oils and applied these, well as the vastly improved knowledge of the mode
amongst others, in cosmetic formulations. As a of action of the individual components of products of
result useful minor oils, which were well known in natural origin, the interest for vegetable oils is
ancient times were phased out in the last decades resurgent.
by economical, larger volume oils or synthetic
products. This compilation of well known exotic oils and fats is
intended as a brief guide for technical and marketing
As science started to explore more systematically people in the cosmetic industry to assist them in the
all available seeds and their oils, many very proper choice of one of the main ingredients of their
interesting oils were discovered and brought back formulations.
into prominence. Also hitherto completely unknown
oils with very unusual properties and chemical

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INTRODUCTION

Vegetable oils and butters offer the cosmetic formulator and

marketeer an interesting field to exploit. Not only does the oils serve
as a useful ingredient from a ‘technical’ point of view in the product
itself, it can also contribute to the attractiveness of the product
when it stands on the shelf. The choice of vegetable oil can easily
contribute to the ‘theme’ of the product.

Vegetable oils offering a lot of ‘depth’ to their bond from the tail. The different ‘omega types’, e.g.
approach as cosmetic ingredients. What about the 3 or 6, are metabolised within their own pathway,
beautiful names such as gold of pleasure, the nice but enzymes are shared over the two pathways,
tropical countries many butters come from, the possibly enabling manipulating with supplementation
taste of the avocado fruit, or e.g. the beautiful to push certain pathways in a more anti-inflammatory
flowers of passionflower or sesame! A lot of direction. A short ‘omega countdown’ follows here.
opportunities here!
Omega-9
Confidence Oleic acid is the most well-known omega-9 fatty
Even in food, the general public has recognised the acid, and is found in many vegetable oils, like olive
importance of fatty seeds and fats in our food, as and hazelnut oil. Some oils occur both as a linoleic-
reflected in diets relying on food sources that has and oleic-rich ‘version’, such as safflower and
been part of our diet since thousands of years. An sunflower oil, differing in oxidative stability, but also
example is the respected avocado oil, obtained from e.g. skin feel.
a delicious fruit, eaten as guacamole. An intimate
relationship is seen between vegetable oils and our Omega-7
own body - fatty acids are part of the human skin Examples of omega-7 fatty acids are the
surface lipids! Vegetable oils (we should also read monounsaturated palmitoleic acid (C16:1n7) and
‘butters’) show we can use nature’s benefits just as cis-vaccenic acid (C18:1n7). Palmitoleic acid occurs
nature has intended it. in relatively high quantities (approx. 20%) in
macadamia nut oil, an oil which easily has a
Basic efficacy monounsaturated fatty acid content (80%) higher
Oils can do a lot more than just moisturise, and their than e.g. olive oil.
biological efficacy is not just based on the
unsaponifiable fraction or trace components, but Macadamia nut oil has been the subject of several
also on their triglyceride fraction, as we will see. studies investigating the health benefits, as shown
on cholesterol profile in humans (Griel et al 2008).
Omega oils Palmitoleic acid has shown to improve insulin
When talking about oils, the term ‘omega’ often resistance in mice, partly owing to supressing
appears, even among the general public. Chemically proinflammatory gene expressions (Yang et al
speaking it indicates the position of the first double 2011).
An important advantage in skin care is the superb Many health advantages are connected to GLA. Oral
penetration of macadamia nut oil, and the velvety consumption of GLA improved dry skin (Kawamura
feel, making it a highly desired ingredient in personal et al 2011), and evening primrose oil improved skin
care formulations. moisture, TEWL, elasticity, firmness, fatigue
resistance and roughness in healthy adults (Muggli
An additional advantage of the oil is the oxidative 2005). Topically applied GLA reduced itching (Chen,
stability. Although it is already quite stable, stability Chiu and Wu 2006), and GLA (as borage oil) has
can even be improved easily by adding antioxidants, also been studied in a test as a possible
as in-house studies have shown, contributing to the transcutaneous delivery system for the delivery of
confidence in the freshness of the final product. agents against breast cancer (Karia et al 2004).

Omega-6 The effect of topical borage oil on the skin barrier

Omega-6 is a well-known omega type among the function is nicely illustrated in a test using
vegetable fatty acids. They play an important role in volunteers. A cream with 3% borage oil yielded a
the skin as well, and are part of the skin barrier. An smoother, more hydrated skin than with 3%
essential fatty acid deficiency has a large effect on safflower oil. Same pattern was seen after SDS
the skin barrier function, and will lead to a scaly treatment, while borage oil restored the TEWL to
skin. lower values than safflower oil (Nissen, Blitz and
Mugli 1995).
Oils such as sunflower, safflower, grape seed offer a
high level of the well-known omega-6 essential fatty There is no active conversion from linoleic acid to
acid linoleic acid (C18:2). GLA in the skin. Therefore, we have to rely on
‘preformed’ GLA when we want to profit from this in
Linoleic acid is metabolised in the body to gamma- the skin. The route to arachidonic acid (C20:4n6),
linolenic acid (GLA, C18:3n6). However, the which is the precursor of pro-inflammatory
conversion of linoleic acid to GLA is poor, and substances however, is suppressed in the skin as it
rate-limiting. Moreover, many factors such as illness requires the action of delta5-desaturase. In the body,
and age impair the conversion. Oils high in GLA are GLA can be further metabolised into anti-
e.g. from the seeds of evening primrose (Oenothera inflammatory eicosanoids, such as prostaglandin of
biennis) (approx. 9.5% GLA), blackcurrant (Ribes series 1 (Kapoor and Huang 2006).
nigrum) (approx. 14% GLA) and borage (Borago
officinalis) (GLA over 20%).

IMCD Business Group Personal Care | 5

INTRODUCTION

Omega-3 of antioxidant for an optimal stability in the final

Omega-3 fatty acids are very important for human product.
health, and often the omega-6/omega-3 ratio is too
high. Sustainability and fair pricing
In some cases, the supply chain is constructed
In vegetable oils, omega-3 is mostly represented by around a system which maximises the revenues of
alpha-linolenic acid (ALA, C18:3n3), present in very the people involved in production in the countries of
high concentrations in e.g. linseed oil. Diets have a origin. A very good example of this fair pricing is
effect on the skin - upon linseed oil supplementation, shea butter. When working together with local
many skin parameters have improved after 12 women organisation in Burkina Faso or Ghana, we
weeks in a study, more than with safflower oil can increase the revenues for the women, by paying
(Neukam et al 2011). Eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA, a fair pricing reflecting their effort in wildpicking
C20:5n3), which contains anti-inflammatory and/or crude butter manufacturing.
properties, has a potential as an skin anti-ageing
ingredient. Topical administration of EPA reduced UV- Trainings and prefinance can be part of this system.
induced epidermal thickening and inhibited UV- As a result, their financial independence is
induced decrease of collagen. EPA attenuated increased, they can pay e.g. for medicines for their
UV-induced MMP-1 and MMP-9 expression. EPA also children, or buy a bicycle. Our company has
increased collagen and elastic fibers expression in participated in such programs.
aged human skin (Ho Kim et al 2006).
Shea butter would also be suitable for a more
It makes sense, e.g. because of the lack of technical approach, as it contains a high level of
desaturase activity, to start from higher metabolites. soothing anti-inflammatory unsaponifiables, partly
Blackcurrant oil for instance, apart from GLA, it consisting of anti-inflammatory triterpenes (Akihisa
contains approx. 2.6% stearidonic acid, a higher et al 2010), which are very useful in anti-ageing
metabolite, and serves as a nice way of providing personal care formulations. No surprise, shea butter
the desired fatty acids in one oil. is known for its soothing effects - very beneficial
after sun exposure. It has shown to reduce redness
Stabilty of the skin in guinea pigs after UV exposure
Of course, highly unsaturated oils are very (Eggensperger 1995). In might also smoothen the
susceptible to oxidation, and heavily rely on the use skin and reduce wrinkles (Renard 1990).

Shea butter is an example of a product where the biological actions are ascribed to its
unsaponifiable fraction, typically present at 4 to 8% in the refined butter. Moreover, shea butter is
a perfect ingredient as it can be approached from different angles, while raising the local living
standards in the country of origin.
REFERENCES

Akihisa T, Kojima N, Kikuchi T, Yasukawa K, Tokuda Kawamura A et al (2011): Dietary supplementation

H, T Masters E, Manosroi A, and Manosroi J. of gamma-linolenic acid improves skin parameters
(2010): Anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive in subjects with dry skin and mild atopic dermatitis.
effects of triterpene cinnamates and acetates from J Oleo Sci. 60(12), 597-607.
shea fat. J Oleo Sci. 59(6), 273-80.
Muggli R. (2005): Systemic evening primrose oil
Chen YC, Chiu WT, and Wu MS. (2006): improves the biophysical skin parameters of
Therapeutic effect of topical gamma-linolenic acid healthy adults. Int J Cosmet Sci. 27(4), 243-9.
on refractory uremic pruritus. Am J Kidney Dis.
48(1), 69-76. Neukam K, De Spirt S, Stahl W, Bejot M, Maurette
JM, Tronnier H, and Heinrich U. (2011):
Eggensperger H. (1995): Pflanzliche Wirkstoffe für Supplementation of flaxseed oil diminishes skin
Kosmetika, Melcher Verlag GmbH. sensitivity and improves skin barrier function and
condition. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 24(2), 67-74.
Ho Kim H. et al (2006): Photoprotective and
anti-skin-aging effects of eicosapentaenoic acid in Nissen HP, Blitz H, and Muggli R. (1995): Gamma-
human skin in vivo. J. Lipid Res. 47, 921-30. linolenic acid in the oil decreases skin roughness
and TEWL and increases skin moisture in normal
Griel AE. et al (2008): A macadamia nut-rich diet and irritated human skin. Cosmetics & Toiletries,
reduces total and LDL-cholesterol in mildly 110(10), 71-6.
hypercholesterolemic men and women. J Nutr.
138(4), 761-7. Renard F. (1990): Thése de doctorat en
Pharmacie, Bordeaux.
Kapoor R, and Huang YS. (2006): Gamma linolenic
acid: an antiinflammatory omega-6 fatty acid. Curr Yang ZH, Miyahara H, and Hatanaka A. (2011):
Pharm Biotechnol. 7(6), 531-4. Chronic administration of palmitoleic acid reduces
insulin resistance and hepatic lipid accumulation in
Karia C, Harwood JL, Morris AP, and Heard CM. KK-Ay Mice with genetic type 2 diabetes. Lipids
(2004): Simultaneous permeation of tamoxifen and Health Dis. 10, 120.
gamma linolenic acid across excised human skin.
Int J Pharm. 271(1-2), 305-9.

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VEGETABLE OILS AND FATS

APRICOT KERNEL OIL

(Prunus armeniaca)

Apricot Kernel Oil is a light yellow oil with a relatively dry non greasy
feel, being lower in saturated fatty acids than other triglyceride
vegetable oils. The oil is obtained by pressing of the kernels.

Origin similar to almonds, but cost less and have many uses
It was probably the Chinese who first cultivated in confectionary items. The Italian “Amaretti di
apricots before 2,000 B.C. Presumably the fruit was Saronno” owes its flavour and texture to apricot
spread westward by silk traders, which resulted in its kernels. Apricot kernels are also used in traditional
reaching Persia by the 1st century B.C. and Greece Chinese medicine.
and Rome soon afterwards. The Greeks wrongly
supposed the fruit to have originated in Armenia and Properties
called it Armenian apple, hence its botanical name. Apricot Kernel Oil is a useful emollient as it has a
The Romans, impressed by its early ripening, named good “slip” and good occlusive properties. These
it “praecocium” (precocious) and from this comes properties enable the oil to act as a moisturising
apricot. Nowadays the apricot is grown extensively in agent by preventing excessive loss of moisture
all regions with a warmer temperate climate. Outside through the epidermis. The oil is characterized by a
the Mediterranean large plantations are also found in somewhat dry feel.
California, South Africa, Australia and China. Apricots
are mainly cultivated for their delicate fruits which can
be eaten fresh, dried and canned. Apricot kernels are
AVOCADO OIL
(Persea gratissima)

Refined Avocado Oil is obtained by pressing and centrifugal extraction

of the soft flesh of the avocado. Crude Avocado Oil is a dark green oil
with a nutty taste. After refining an oil is obtained which is a very valuable
ingredient for many cosmetic products.

Origin word is the Aztec ahuacatl, which refers to its shape.

Avocado is most probably originating from southern Avocado trees are now widely grown in many tropical
Mexico. In contrast to most other vegetable oils, and subtropical countries, mostly for the fresh fruits
Avocado Oil comes from the flesh instead of the which are a well known and highly appreciated delicacy.
stone of the fruit and was therefore one of the
easiest oils to extract by the early civilisations. It Properties
was a traditional beauty oil used by the tribeswomen Avocado Oil is more easily absorbed by the skin than
of Mexico and well known to ancient Mayan and many other cosmetic oils, assumed to be partly due
Aztec Indian civilizations. In the early 16th century to its content of palmitoleic acid, a fatty acid which
a Franciscan priest recorded its use in Mexico and is relatively rare in vegetable oils. Avocado Oil is also
wrote: Among the fruits found in the mountains is appreciated for its unsaponifiable fraction. Avocado
one they call “ahuacatl”, i.e. that which hangs on the Oil is regarded as one of the most suitable and
tree and looks like a large pear. The origin of the effective cosmetic oils.

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VEGETABLE OILS AND FATS

CASTOR OIL
(Ricinus communis)

Castor Oil is a very light viscous oil with a slight but characteristic
odour. It is the only triglyceride oil with up to 90% ricinoleic
acid which gives it its unique property of being soluble in alcohol.
Furthermore, it is an extremely stable oil with a unique
solubilisation power.

Origin Properties
Castor is an annual or perennial plant indigenous to Castor Oil is being “rediscovered” by the cosmetic
Eastern Africa but now widely grown in tropical and industry. It can be described as a substance
sub-tropical countries with low rainfall. It is a bushy with a triglyceride structure so uniform that it
plant with soft spiny fruits somewhat like chestnuts outperforms most oil and fat derivatives now used
which contain gray and black mottled seeds. in cosmetics. Its viscosity is higher, it is light in
Castor Oil intended for cosmetic applications color and resists oxidation very well.
is obtained by pressing followed by parification Castor Oil has a favorable toxicology profile with
treatments. respect to topical use. Castor is a mild moisturiser
and is non-comedogenic, with excellent film
forming and pigment-wetting properties. It is used
in lip balms, massage oils, creams and a wide
range of stick products. The high solubilisation
power of Castor Oil gives it a unique position
among the vegetable oils.
COCOA BUTTER
(Theobroma cacao)

Cocoa Butter is a white or magnolia coloured, edible vegetable

fat extracted from the cacao bean. It is used to make chocolate,
pharmaceuticals, personal care products and toiletries.

Crude Cocoa Butter has a distinct chocolate flavor and aroma. Properties
Cocoa Butter is one of the most stable fats known, containing Cocoa Butter has been used in high quality cosmetics for
natural antioxidants that prevent rancidity and give it a long centuries. More and more, the constituents of cocoa, such
storage life, making it a good and confident choice for non- as polyphenols, are linked to favourable health effects, in
food products. The smooth texture and emollient property of particular related to their anti-inflammatory properties and
Cocoa Butter make it a popular ingredient in cosmetics and the antioxidant properties which may help to reduce oxidation
skin care products, such as creams, soaps and lotions. of LDL-cholesterol and fight reactive oxygen species. In other
words, they can form a factor against atherosclerosis, heart
Origin diseases and a large variety of illnesses related to reactive
The cacao tree is a small, tropical, evergreen tree which oxygen species. In addition, cocoa has also been linked to a
grows to approximately between 4 to 8 meter in height. The favourable effect on the immune system.
tree is native to Central and South America and the West
Indies. Today the cacao tree is cultivated in West Africa, Java, Benefits
Ceylon, Costa Rica, Brazil, Peru, Venezuela, Ecuador and Cocoa Butter contains natural antioxidants that give it a
other tropical places. long shelf life. Cocoa Butter is mainly used as a thickening
The cacao tree is a member of the Sterculiaceae plant family. agent and is a common ingredient in lipsticks, soaps and
The seeds of the cacao tree were considered to be very emollient creams. It is used as a superb moisturiser in many
valuable and in ancient times, the seeds were used as an early formulations. It is also a folk remedy for burns, cough, dry
form of money; the Mayan people of Mexico traded cacao lips, fever, malaria, rheumatism, snakebite and wounds.
seeds extensively throughout their empire. Cocoa was named
Theobroma and means ‘food of the gods’.

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VEGETABLE OILS AND FATS

EVENING PRIMROSE OIL

(Oenothera biennis)

Evening Primrose Oil is obtained from the tiny seeds of the Oenothera biennis, in
which the oil is present in a ca. 20% concentration. Recently Evening Primrose
Oil has received a great deal of attention, because it contains the rare essential
fatty acid gamma-linolenic acid, which is found in only a few other plant species.

Origin physiological functions in the human body, especially in the

American Indians used the native Evening Primrose skin. Omega-6 fatty acids like linoleic and gamma-linolenic
plant for centuries. It is introduced about 400 years ago acid (GLA) play an important role in the barrier function of
in Europe. The Evening Primrose has since flourished the skin, and oils containing these fatty acids can work in
as both an ornamental flower and a medical herb in more ways than occlusion alone. In this way, these fatty
Europe, enjoying such names as “Beauty of the Night” in acids can really be considered as actives, with the skin as
France and “Virgin Night Candle” in Germany, because one of the target organs. GLA can be formed from linoleic
its luminous, four petaled yellow flowers open only in the acid, but the epidermis is deficient in the enzyme, delta-6
evening. Evening primrose is grown in countries with a desaturase, responsible for this metabolism. Furthermore,
continental or temperate climate. this metabolism is impaired by age, stress, alcohol
intake and diabetes. An impaired omega-6 metabolism
Properties contributes to a scaly skin with a reduced barrier function.
Evening Primrose Oil is rich in two very important GLA can be seen as a conditionally essential fatty acid for
polyunsaturated fatty acids, as it contains over 70% a healthy skin, as it is shown by studies. Evening Primrose
linoleic acid and over 9% of the rare gamma-linolenic Oil intake has been linked to an improvement of the skin.
acid (GLA). In the body, GLA is metabolised to hormone- Evening Primrose Oil is characterised by a light skin feel.
type substances which play key roles in a wide range of
GOLD OF PLEASURE OIL
(Camelina sativa)

Gold of Pleasure Oil is characterised by an interesting fatty acid

profile, with a high level of beneficial omega-3 fatty acids. Its superb,
light skin feel, with a good penetration makes it a valuable ingredient
in cosmetics.

Origin Properties
Gold of Pleasure Oil is the oil obtained from The oil is a rich source of omega-3 fatty acids. It
Camelina sativa. Other names include false flax contains high levels (ca. 34%) of alpha-linolenic
or Camelina, German sesame or Siberian oilseed. acid (C18:3n3). Omega-6 fatty involve linoleic
The old name for the plant in Dutch refers to the acid, present in ca. 18%. Furthermore, it contains
yolk-yellow colour of the flowers. It is a flowering omega-9 fatty acids. It contains oleic acid (ca.
plant from the Brassicaceae family. It is native to 14%), and, which is quite rare, eicosenoic acid
southeast Europe and southwest Asia, and has (ca. 15%). Omega-3 fatty acids are known for
been introduced to other parts of the world, such their anti-inflammatory effects and the inhibitory
as Northern America. It often occurs as a weed effects on platelet aggregation. The (longer, more
accompanying flax, hence the name ‘false flax’. The unsaturated) metabolites of linolenic acid have
main growth area was from East Europe to Central important functions in the human body, such as
Asia. in the brain and retina. Gold of Pleasure is a nice
example of an oil containing omega 3, 6, and 9
The plants are 50 to 100 cm high, with 5 to 8 fatty acids in significant quantities.
cm long arrow-shaped leaves. The fruit is a 7
to 10 mm long pear-like pod, containing 8 to 10 Omega-6 fatty acids play an important role in the
yellow or brownish yellow small seeds. The use of skin. An essential fatty acid deficiency (EFAD) would
Gold of Pleasure has a very long history. There is result in a scaly skin with a high water loss. It has
archeological evidence that it has been grown in even been shown that the supplementation of
Europe over at least 3000 years. The earliest find certain oils improve the barrier function of elderly
sites include places in Switzerland and Greece. people. Gold of Pleasure Oil has been an edible oil
During the Bronze Age and Iron Age it was an in Europe, up until the 1950’s after which rape took
important crop in Greece. Archeological studies over the role.
suggest that gold of pleasure was part of the ritual
of sacrifice, ca. 2000 years ago. Unfortunately, this change has not been hindered
by the knowledge we now have about the
beneficial role of e.g. omega-3 fatty acids and the
importance of an optimal balance between the
fatty acids. Gold of Pleasure Oil is also appreciated
for its potential health benefits in food, as shown in
oral intake studies.

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VEGETABLE OILS AND FATS

GRAPE SEED OIL

(Vitis vinifera)

Grape Seed Oil is a yellow-greenish oil with virtually no odour. It is

obtained from grape pips and is subsequently refined. The oil is
characterized by its high content of linoleic acid (up to 70%).

Origin Properties
Although the grapevine has been around for Grape Seed Oil is a relatively quick-penetrating oil
thousands of years, commercial oil extraction from with a dry skin feel. It has an extraordinary high
the pips is a fairly new process, probably because content of linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid (EFA)
unrefined Grape Seed Oil is considered unpalatable which is readily taken up by the skin and reduces
and adequate refining processes were not available the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and
until this century. Virtually all Grape Seed Oil is thereby restores the elasticity of the skin.
produced in France and Italy, and most of it is used
as a fine cooking salad oil. Unlike other oils which work by occlusion
only, Grape Seed Oil functions curatively by
incorporation of the EFA into the stratum corneum,
which might give a much longer lasting effect than
occlusive oils.
HAZELNUT OIL
(Corylus avellana)

Hazelnut Oil is obtained from pressing hazelnuts. Hazelnut Oil

is characterised by a very high content of (mono-unsaturated)
oleic acid, making it a very stable oil suitable for many cosmetic
applications.

Origin Properties
Hazelnuts probably originate from Asia Minor, but Thanks to its fatty acid composition, it is a very
have spread all over the world in regions with a stable oil, which can be used as an emollient in
temperate climate. Hazelnuts have been used as a a wide range of skin care products. Due to its
source of oil since the Bronze Age, but most of the fatty acid composition it has excellent occlusive
nuts are still used for desserts and confectionery properties, enabling it to act as a moisturing agent
products. by preventing excessive loss of moisture through the
epidermis. Hazelnut Oil has a ‘rich’ skin feel and has
good lubricity properties, making it a nice ingredient
for massage products.

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VEGETABLE OILS AND FATS

JOJOBA OIL
(Simmondsia chinensis)

Jojoba Oil is obtained from the beans of the jojoba shrub by

mechanical pressing. Unrefined Jojoba Oil has a golden colour,
whereas refined Jojoba Oil can reach very low colour values.

Origin Jojoba Oil has deserved its place in traditional

Jojoba is an evergreen shrub, about 1 - 2 metres medicine. Indians in Mexico have used the oil for
high, with opposite, oblong-ovate 2 - 4 cm long their hair, and it is externally applied to head sores.
dull-green leaves. The beans are nutlike and leathery, The oil has replaced an animal oil similar to Jojoba
about 2.5 cm long with an ovoid shape. The seed Oil.
contains ca. 50% of Jojoba Oil. It grows in California,
Arizona and south America in deserts and other dry Properties
places. The shrub is a real miracle when it comes to Jojoba Oil has a quite unique composition. It does
survival - it has to cope with very low night not have the triglyceride structure which is usually
temperatures as well as temperatures up to 45˚C found in vegetable oils, but it consists of very long
during day time. The shrub has very long roots, straight-chain wax esters, the major fatty acid
which can reach water-containing parts. Despite the component being eicosenoic acid (C20:1). It is
high temperatures and drought, it is believed to known for its extremely high stability to oxidation.
reach ages of 200 years.

Originally one mistakenly thought that the species

came from China, which is reflected in the name
Buxus chinensis. The name Jojoba is derived from
the Indian word ‘Jojowi’.
MACADAMIA NUT OIL
(Macadamia ternifolia)

Refined Macadamia Nut Oil is a light yellow oil. It is characterized by a

high content of mono-unsaturated fatty acids with, for a vegetable oil,
an unusual high quantity of palmitoleic acid (ca. 20%). It is therefore
an excellent replacement for the animal derived mink oil. The old name
Macadamia ternifolia is still often used, the species used are actually
Macadamia integrifolia or Macadamia tetraphylla.

Origin Properties
The macadamia tree is indigeneous to an area The major fatty acids of Macadamia Nut Oil are oleic
around Brisbane in Queensland, Eastern Australia. acid (about 59%), and palmitoleic acid (about 20%).
However, it was introduced to Hawaii and other sub- One of the ideas behind the use of Macadamia Nut
tropical countries in the late 19th century and now Oil in skin care cosmetics is to replenish components
Hawaii and Australia are the world largest producers which decrease with ageing. It is one of the most pe-
of macadamia nut. The macadamia nut is called “the netrating oils known, and therefore sometimes called
king of the nuts” and is being considered “the crème a “vanishing oil” because of its rapid absorption by the
de la crème” of nuts. The oil is produced by cold skin. Thus it is a valuable component in a broad range
pressing of the nuts and is refined after pressing. of skin care cosmetics. It has a remarkable, rich,
The old name Macadamia ternifolia is still often velvety skin feel. The relatively high level of palmitoleic
used, the species used are actually Macadamia acid fits well into the awareness of the possible heal-
integrifolia or Macadamia tetraphylla. thy influence of monounsaturated fatty acids.

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VEGETABLE OILS AND FATS

MANGO KERNEL BUTTER

(Mangifera indica)

Mango Kernel Butter is a soft butter, obtained from the mango

kernels. The butter is subsequently refined, bleached and deodorized
to meet the stringent requirements for cosmetic applications.

Origin Most of it is being used as Cocoa Butter replacer

The mango, one of the world finest tropical fruits, in the chocolate industry. Meanwhile, the excellent
has been cultivated in India for several thousand emollient properties of this butter have also
years. Although mangos are now grown in all attracted the attention of the cosmetic industry.
tropical countries, India remains the world largest
producer. The mango is considered having great Properties
religious significance, for instance by the Hindus. Mango Kernel Butter is characterised by a high
The mango tree plays a role in many myths and content of stearic acid (up to 45%) giving it physical
traditions in India. After the pulp has been eaten properties comparable with Cocoa Butter.
the stones are thrown away as waste. However, the It combines excellent emolliency with good oxidative
kernels within the stones contain about 6 - 10% of stability, making it a very suitable replacement for
a very valuable butter. This source of good quality many synthetic emolliency enhancers.
butter went unnoticed for a relatively long time.
PASSIONFLOWER OIL
(Passiflora edulis)

Refined Passionflower Oil is a yellow oil, obtained by careful expeller

pressing of the seeds of the passion fruit. To obtain a good quality
oil, suitable for cosmetic applications, Passion Flower Oil is refined,
bleached and deodorized.

Origin Properties
The passionflower is a climbing plant, native in Passionflower Oil is a relatively quick penetrating
tropical Brasil and is now grown in tropical areas. oil with a dry skin feel. It has an extraordinary high
It has very remarkable crowned flowers. Jesuit content of linoleic acid (up to 75%). Linoleic acid
missionaries considered the flowers to symbolise is an essential fatty acid required for the synthesis
the crucifixion of Christ, because of the similarities of stratum corneum membrane lipids. It helps
between the floral structure and the wounds and providing a permeability barrier and has a large
nails. The fruits are purple fleshy berries of the size effect on the transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
of hen’s eggs and are highly appreciated in exotic It plays an important role in the maintenance of
desserts. The soft, yellow-orange coloured pulp is epidermal integrity, and the elasticity of the skin.
often used in fruit juices. The moisturisation effect of Passionflower Oil
might occur via other routes than occlusion alone,
and might therefore generate a more long-lasting
moisturising effect.

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VEGETABLE OILS AND FATS

RICE BRAN OIL

(Oryza sativa)

Refined Rice Bran Oil is a yellow oil, obtained from the hulls of rice. It
is characterised by a high content of mono- and polyunsaturated fatty
acids and a high percentage (ca. 2.5%) of unsaponifiables, which are
very valuable for many cosmetic applications. The presence of these
unsaponifiables makes it also a very stable oil.

Origin Properties
Rice Bran Oil is obtained by solvent extraction. The fatty acid profile of Rice Bran Oil is
The oil is still mainly produced in the Far East, in characterised by almost equal amounts of oleic
particular in Japan, and is there highly appreciated and linoleic acid, the latter being an extremely
as a superior cooking oil with an excellent stability important component for maintaining the moisture
and more recently also as a valuable ingredient for and elasticity of the skin. Rice Bran Oil is of special
cosmetic applications. importance for the cosmetic industry due to its
high content of very valuable unsaponifiables. It is
a very rich source of tocopherols, tocotrienols and
phytosterols. Of particular interest in Rice Bran Oil
is the compound γ-Oryzanol. γ-Oryzanol is a mixture
containing several phytosterols linked to ferulic acid.
It exerts various important activities on the skin, e.g.
it enhances the peripheral blood flow and it filters UV
light. The interest in Rice Bran Oil is partly based on
the recognised beneficial properties of γ-oryzanol.
SAFFLOWER OIL
(Carthamus tinctorius)

Refined Safflower Oil is an oil obtained from safflower seeds. Safflower

Oil is characterised by an extremely high level of linoleic acid, easily up
to 76%. It is highly appreciated as a premium cooking oil, but is also very
suitable for cosmetic products.

Origin Properties
Safflower is a thistle like plant with attractive orange- Safflower Oil is relatively quick-penetrating oil with a
red flowers, which favours semi arid conditions. dry skin feel. Because of its low oxidative stability,
Safflower is the worlds oldest crop grown for it would require a proper stabilisation to ensure an
thousands of years. It has been grown for a very acceptable shelf life. It has an extraordinary high
long time in parts of Africa and Asia, involving content of linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid (EFA)
India, the Middle East, and Ethiopia. It provided a which is readily taken up by the skin and reduces
source of red and yellow dyes used as colorant for the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) and thereby
fabrics and for food. Remains of safflower were restores the elasticity of the skin. Unlike other oils
even found in the tomb of Tutankhamun. Although which work by occlusion only, the EFA in Safflower
safflower is still grown as a source of natural dyes, Oil is anticipated to be incorporated in the skin
once the exceptional quality of the Safflower Oil was barrier, which would result in a longer lasting effect
recognised in the course of this century, the interest than occlusive oils.
for this crop gradually shifted to the production of
oil. Currently it is cultivated as a commercial seed
crop in many semi arid parts of the world, like India,
Mexico, California and Australia.

IMCD Business Group Personal Care | 21

VEGETABLE OILS AND FATS

Refined Sesame Oil is the refined oil obtained from the seeds of
sesame. It is characterised by a high content of natural sesame oil-
specific antioxidants such as sesamin and sesamolin, resulting in a
high stability of the oil.

SESAME OIL
(Sesamum indicum)

Origin The plants are about one meter high, with

Sesame is one of the oldest oil seeds known attractive pink flowers, which form capsules
to human race. A 4,000 year old drawing on an containing as many as 50-100 seeds.
Egyptian tomb illustrates a baker adding sesame
seeds to the dough. Sesame was used in funeral Properties
and other ceremonies as a purifier and a symbol Sesame Oil has an excellent balance of mono- and
of immortality. The Vedic scriptures (ca. 1,000 BC) polyunsaturated fatty acids giving it very good
contain frequent references to sesame. Sesame emolliency properties. Its high content of natural
was also known to ancient Greek and Roman antioxidants not only enhances its stability but also
authors. Sesame is an annual crop grown in semi provides extra sun protection.
arid regions such as India, Sudan and Mexico.
SHEA BUTTER
(Butyrospermum parkii)

Shea Butter is a somewhat soft butter, obtained from the kernels of the
shea tree. Refined Shea Butter is a highly appreciated butter in the field
of cosmetics.

Origin lies in its very high content of unsaponifiables.

The shea nut tree is indigenous to the savanna belt Many effects of Shea Butter can be attributed to
in West Africa, from Senegal to Uganda. Its height the presence of these unsaponifiables, mostly
is up to ca. 10 m. Shea Butter has been used consisting of triterpene alcohols. Shea Butter has
for centuries by the African people as a source been shown to reduce the redness upon sunburn,
of edible fat and for body care. Traditionally, the in addition to having a sun protection factor
Africans use it as a medical balm as a protectant or itself. On the skin, it has been used to improve
to treat various illnesses related to inflammation or skin moisturisation, improve the skin texture and
to skin damage, with astonishing results. suppleness and to diminish skin wrinkles, but also
to obtain a healing effect in cases related to hand
Properties dermatitis, sun burns and scars. In conclusion,
Shea Butter readily melts at body temperature, Shea Butter is an appreciated ingredient to combat
making it a very attractive emollient for many skin the signs of skin ageing.
care applications. The strength of Shea Butter

IMCD Business Group Personal Care | 23

VEGETABLE OILS AND FATS

SHOREA BUTTER
(Shorea robusta)

Shorea Butter is obtained from the fruits of the sal tree.

The butter is carefully refined, bleached and deodorized to get a
white or slightly yellow butter which meets the stringent requirements
for cosmetic applications.

Origin The butter is locally used for cooking and soap

The sal tree is a semi deciduous huge forest tree production, but a significant amount is exported to
which can be 18-30 m tall and with a width of 1.8 be used as a Cocoa Butter replacement.
- 2.0 m. This typical jungle tree is found in many Increasingly Shorea Butter is also being used as an
parts of the Indian subcontinent. emollient for cosmetic applications.

The sal is a tree of great antiquity in India and is Properties

mentioned in great epics like the Ramayana and the Shorea Butter is characterized by its high content of
Mahabharata. The tree is best known for its wood, stearic acid (up to 45%) giving it physical properties
which is extensively used in north, east and central comparable with Cocoa Butter. It combines good
India as timber. The sal tree begins to fruit only after emolliency properties with superior oxidative
25-30 years. The tree’s blossoms and bears fruit in stability, making it a very suitable replacement for
March/April. In the periods of profuse flowering the many synthetic emolliency enhancers.
whole forest is adorned in a pleasing white colour.
The mature pea-sized fruits with dry brown wings fall
from the tree and scatter on the jungle floor.
Sweet Almond Oil is an oil obtained by the
pressing of sweet almonds. Refined Sweet Almond
Oil is highly appreciated in the cosmetic and
pharmaceutical industry.

SWEET ALMOND OIL

(Prunus dulcis)

Origin
The almond tree is believed to have originated in the eastern Mediterranean countries,
but is now particularly cultivatedin warm, sunny climates of Spain, Italy, California and
China. The almonds flower in January with a profusion of frothy white blossom, which
makes it a very attractive tree in that time of the year. The almonds are wrapped
in a tough green husk, which at harvest splits open to reveal the nut inside. Sweet
almonds are used as dessert nut and as almond paste or butter in confectionery
products.

Properties
Refined Sweet Almond Oil is widely used as an emollient and carrier in the cosmetic
and pharmaceutical industry. It can be used in a wide range of clear products, such
as massage oils and bath oils. It has good occlusive properties, enabling it to act as a
moisturising agent by preventing excessive loss of moisture through the epidermis.

IMCD Business Group Personal Care | 25

VEGETABLE OILS AND FATS

WHEAT GERM OIL

(Triticum vulgare)

Crude Wheat Germ Oil is a bright orange-red oil with a very

characteristic fresh odour. Wheat Germ Oil is much appreciated
for its high content of vitamin E.

Origin Properties
Because of the very low oil amount present, most Since many years Wheat Germ Oil has gained
of the oil is solvent extracted. In a few rare cases its place in the cosmetic industry, because of its
Wheat Germ Oil is produced by cold pressing only. excellent efficacy in many skin care products.
Because of the huge grain processing facilities The oil is a well known carrier of vitamin E.
in the Mid West of the United States, most of the The tocopherol content of crude Wheat Germ Oil
wheat germ is produced in the U.S.A. exceeds 2,000 ppm, but even the refined oil still
easily contains over 1,000 ppm tocopherol.
Apart from vitamin E, Wheat Germ Oil also contains
high amounts of phytosterols. Furthermore it
contains many essential fatty acids - over 50%
linoleic acid (omega-6) and about 6% of alpha-
linolenic acid (omega-3).
IMCD Business Group Personal Care | 27
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BR.VOF.PC.10.2014

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