PatternMaker Project

Vintage Style Bustier Blouse

By Jennifer Smith

These directions require some familiarity with

the CAD commands of the PatternMaker
Home Studio software. For more complete
information on the CAD commands and pat-
tern making techniques, please see my CD
tutorial, Pattern Making with PatternMaker,
Volume 1: The Bodice.

Project Requirements:

•Women’s Volume I Garment Collection or

Basic Blocks Collection
•PatternMaker Home Studio

Project Level: Intermediate

There are as many ways to create a pattern as
there are pattern makers. PatternMaker itself
has a variety of ways to achieve the same re-
sult. Please remember that if you use a differ-
ent method, it is certainly not wrong! How-
ever, the PatternMaker Projects may show you
some useful techniques.

1. Run Macro

I used the Ladies Bodice macro from the

Women’s Volume 1 garment collection. You
could also use the bodice macro from the Ba-
sic Blocks collection (this might work better
as you have more ease choices). But you can
use any basic hip-length torso sloper you like.
The sample blouse is for a bust 37.5” (95 cm),
waist 28” ( 71 cm).

•Select bust dart to side seam.

•Enter your measurements (be sure to mea-

sure according to the instructions that come
with the macro).

•Select 0 seam allowance. It is much easier

to manipulate a pattern without seam allow-
ance. You can add the seam allowance after
you are finished.

•Save your work.

2. Add button and buttonhole stand

The buttonhole stand is generally 3/4” to 1”

wide (2 cm - 2.5 cm). Create a rectangle that
is shorter than your bodice front length and a
width that will accommodate the size of your
buttons. Follow these steps.

•Select the Rectangle icon > Left Click at

the bottom of your bodice (Use the Snap to
Endpoint to start the rectangle right on the
corner) > type “@” “-width, length” (example:
@- .75, 10 or -2 cm, 25 cm).

©Jennifer Smith, 2004

PatternMaker Projects Vintage Bustier Blouse 2
•Select Align Y from the Point menu or use
the icon.

•Left Click on the center front neckline to

select the point for horizontal alignment then
Right Click.

•Left Click on both of the top corners of the

rectangle you just created. Then Right Click.

Your rectangle automatically becomes the

length of your bodice.

3. Draw the new neckline.

Consider how low you would like the V of

your neckline to go. Then measure from the
hollow at the base of your neck to the point
where you would like your neckline.

•Create a guideline by selecting the Line icon,

click at the center front of your neckline. It is
a good idea to make it a different color and/or
put it on a different layer than your bodice
front.

•Type “@” Enter “0, - the depth of your

neckline”. For example, 0, -4. If you select a
line weight of 3, it will help you to see it easily.

NOTE: You can also create your guideline

anywhere on the screen and use the Move tool
to place it at the neck.

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 3

•Draw your new neckline by using the Poly
tool to draw a curved line that goes through
the end of the collar depth guideline.

1. Select the Poly tool > Left Click above

the neckline/shoulder point.

2. Right Click to bring up the Poly menu >

select Arc > Left Click to create the arc
vertex .

3. Left Click to select the end of the line >

Right Click to bring up the Poly menu > select
Open (Done).

•Save your work.

4. Cut the new neckline.

•Select the Cut tool > Left Click to select

the bodice as the object to cut > Right Click
to indicate you have made your choice.

•Select the new neckline as the object to cut

with (Left click and then Right click)

•Repeat the process to cut the buttonhole

extension piece.

•Erase the old neckline pieces. You can also

erase the cut line.

•Save your work.

©Jennifer Smith, 2004

PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 4
5. Create front facings

•Use the Copy tool to make a copy of the

front bodice piece and the buttonhole
extension (you’ll need to select both pieces)

•Generally, facings are approximately 3” wide

(7.5 cm) You can “eyeball” the facing width
using the grid as a guide (View > Grid or
F4). Or you can select Snap to Offset > type
in “the desired width of your facing, 0” (you
can reverse the order).

•Select the Poly tool > Left Click above the

shoulder to start your line

•Left Click to start your line. Create the line

as shown > select Open (Done)

•Use the new line to cut away the side of the

bodice.

•Group the buttonhole stand with the rest of

the facing by using the Group command in
the Symbol menu.

•Left Click on both the front facing piece and

the buttonhole stand then Right Click.

•A window will open to prompt you to name

the group. You can now move the pieces
around as a unit.

•Save your work.

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 5

6. Create back facings.

•Make a copy of the back pattern piece.

•To be sure the facings match at the shoulders,

Move/Rotate the front facing so that matches
the back pattern copy at the shoulders. Be
sure to select both the buttonhole and front
facing extension.

•Ignore the back shoulder dart—remove the

dart vertex (Point > Delete Vertex).

•Use the Poly tool to draw an arc from the

front facing edge to the center back.

•I have “eyeballed” my back facing. You can,

of course, be much more accurate by using
the Snap to Offset. This facing should be the
same width as your front facing.

•Use the new line you have drawn as the cut

line to cut away the back of the garment and
create your facing.

•Save your work.

7. Draw the bust point guide.

Draw a line from the center of the waist dart

up and another line from the center of the side
seam dart towards the center front.

8 Create bust cup guide.

•Use the crossing point of the bust point guide

lines as the center of a guide line circle.

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 6

•Measure from your bust apex to the bottom
of your bra cup. Use this measurement (you
may want to add ¼” to ½” of ease) as the
radius of a circle.

•Select the Circle tool > Left Click on the

bust apex > type in the radius measurement >
Enter key.

•Save your work.

9. Cut the front apart.

In the sample, the underbust seam is 2” (5 cm)

below the side dart. This amount may vary
for different sizes. You may wish to create a
guideline as we did for the neckline depth.
Draw the cut line by using the Poly tool.

1. Draw a straight line from the center front

to the curve of the circle.

2. Right click to bring up the Poly menu >

Arc > Left Click to create the arc vertex (if it
is not quite right you can always change it
using Point > Move Vertex).

3. Left Click on the outside of the side seam

to finish the arc. Right Click to bring up the
Poly menu and select Open (Done).

Use the curved line you just drew to cut the

bodice and the buttonhole extension. You will
need to cut the bodice and the button extension
separately.

•Edit > Cut (or use the Cut icon) > Left Click
to select bodice as object to be cut > Right
Click to indicate you have made your choice.

•Left Click on the curved line to select object

to cut with > Right Click to indicate you have
made your choice.

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 7

•Repeat the steps to cut the buttonhole
extension.

•Repeat the steps to cut the dart (You may

need to zoom in to select the correct cut line).

•You may Erase the circle guide.

•Save your work.

Separate the front pieces by moving the lower

front extension, lower front dart, and lower
bodice pieces away from the upper bodice
piece. If the program will allow you, Group
the lower objects together to make it easier to
move them as a unit

•Symbol > Group > Left Click on the lower

front extension, lower front dart, and lower
bodice piece > Right Click to indicate you
have made your choice. A window will open
to allow you name the group you have just
created.

10. Manipulate the dart.

•Move the side dart apex to the bust apex

Point > Move Vertex

•Use the Line tool to draw a line from the

bust apex to outside of the lower front of the
upper bodice (as illustrated). In the example,
the line is 2” (5 cm) in front of the existing
dart.

NOTE: Make sure the new line goes past the

dart outline—you may need to use the Zoom
tool to be sure.

•Save your work.

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 8

11. Cut along the new line.

•Select the Cut tool > Left Click to select

the upper bodice front as the object to cut >
Right Click to indicate you have made your
choice.

•Left Click to select the line to cut with >

Right Click to indicate you have made your
choice.

•You can erase your cut line.

•Save your work.

12. Rotate the dart.

•Select the Rotate tool > Left Click to select

the lower right hand section of the bodice, and
select the lower dart > Right Click to indicate
you have made your choice.

•Left Click at the bust apex to select the

rotation point (use the Snap to Endpoint to
precisely select the apex point) > Left Click
anywhere to create the rotation “handle” >
move the “handle” until the dart looks like the
illustration to the right.

Save your work.

Repeat the process to rotate the remainder of

the dart to the other side of the existing waist
dart.

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 9

•Draw another cut line that extends from the
bust apex to approximately 2” to the right of
the original bust dart.

•Cut along the new line and rotate the

remainder of the side seam dart to the new
dart.

13. Clean up the pattern.

•Erase the old cut lines

•Erase the bust point guide lines

•Add notches on each side of the new darts to

indicate where the gathering should start and
stop. In the example, I have put the notches
1/2” (1 cm) away from the rotated darts.

•Point > Add Vertex > Left Click to select

the appropriate segment > Left Click to select
notch placement > select notch type from the
menu.

•Save your work.

•Close the newly created darts by moving the

vertices until the darts are closed use Point >
Move Vertex.

•Goup the elements of the upper bodice

together so they can be moved around as a
unit. Go to the Symbol menu and select
Group.

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 10

15. Match the notches.

•Move your lower front piece to line it up with

the upper front piece so that you can add a
notch to the lower bodice to mark where the
gathering should line up.

•Select Add Vertex from the Point menu.

•Left Click to select the segment where you

would like to add the notch. Right Click to
indicate you have made your choice.

•Left Click the precise location you want

the vertex to be placed. The Notch Type
window will open and you can select the
type of notch you desire.

•Rotate and Move the lower pattern piece to

line up the side seam. Add the other notch.

The front pattern pieces are now complete.

Please save your work.

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 11

16. Create the collar.

•Make copies of the upper front and back

pattern pieces.

•Move/Rotate the back piece so that the neck

edge of the shoulder lines up with the neck
edge of the front.

•Rotate the back piece so that it overlaps the

front piece. The more the pieces overlap, the
higher the “stand” of the collar will be. In my
example, the back overlaps the front by
approximately 1/2” (1.27 cm) at the armscye.
You can calculate the distance precisely by
creating a circle that is the diameter of the
desired overlap.

•Use the Poly tool to draw the collar shape.

The center back of the collar is narrow--1”
(2.54 cm) in my example. The lower front
edge of the collar is 4” (10.16 cm) wide in
my example. You can draw a line as a guide
as we did when we drew the neckline at the
beginning of this project (page 3).

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 12

•Finish the collar with the Poly tool by tracing
the existing neckline. Select Done (Closed)
when you are finished. (There is a detailed
section about this technique in the CD tutorial,
PatternMaking with PatternMaker: Volume
I, The Bodice.)

•Use the Move Vertex command in the point

menu to make sure the curves and points are
where you want them.

•Add a notch (Point > Add Vertex) at the

point where the shoulder line meets the
neckline.

•Delete the front and back pattern pieces.

•Save your work.

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 13

17. Alter the sleeve.

The sample blouse has 3/4 length sleeves. Cut

the sleeve approximately half way between the
wrist and elbow dart.

•Use the Poly tool to draw a curved line

parallel to the sleeve hem. You may wish to
create guidelines or circles.

•Cut the sleeve along the new line.

•Measure the length of the new lower edge by

going to Point > Set/Measure Dist. Use the
Snap to Endpoint to be very precise.

•Calculate the radius of a circle with a

circumference that is the length you just
measured. If you remember your geometry,
the circumference of a circle equals 2 times pi
times the radius. Or: C = 2 pi r. If you divide
the circumference by twice pi, you’ll get the
radius. C/6.283 = r.

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 14

•Use the radius measurement you have
calculated to create a circle using the Circle
tool. Left Click anywhere on the screen to
create the center of the circle, then type the
radius measurement.

•Create a second circle that has a radius equal

to the radius of the first circle + the desired
ruffle width. In the example, the ruffle is 3”
(7.5 cm) wide. It is a good idea to Group
these two circles together. Symbol > Group.

18. Add seam allowance.

You can use the Offset command to add seam

allowance to the pattern pieces that are
complete objects. I find that it is easiest to
simply offset each piece and allow the offsets
to overlap each other when the pattern is
composed of multiple pieces.

You can also use the Seam Allowance

command in the Draw menu to add seam
allowance to specific edges of the pattern
pieces. If this operation proves to be
problematic, you can always add the seam
allowance after you have printed the pattern
out. Complete directions for this process are
contained in Pattern Making with
PatternMaker, the CD tutorial.

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 15

Your pattern is complete!

Cut the collar, and collar facing on the fold. a decorative zig zag along the edge. I traced
The back may be cut on the fold or be seamed the finish line onto the fabric with a water
as you prefer. Cut 2 of each of the remaining soluble pen and did not cut these pieces out
pieces. Use the grainlines that were generated until I had done the zig zag stitching along the
when you created the original macro. My edge.
collar and cuffs are a single layer of fabric with

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 16

19. Sewing suggestions.

This blouse is easy to construct and can be

put together in several different ways. Here
is how I constructed the sample.

1. Pin and stitch all darts.

2. Finish the seam allowance as you desire

(overlock, zig zag, etc.). Sew 2 rows of
gathering stitches between the notches of the
upper bodice piece.
12. Pin and stitch the sleeve ruffles to the
3. Pin and stitch the upper fronts to the lower sleeves. You may find it helpful to clip the
fronts. ruffle seam allowance.
4. Stitch the shoulders together. 13. Finish the ruffle/sleeve seam allowance.
5. Layer the collar on top of water soluble 14. Finish the hem as you desire. I folded up
stabilizer and put the two layers in a hoop to the hem allowance and used the decorative
do the zig zag stitching along the edge. Then zig zag to cover the raw edge.
trim close to the stitching and wash away the
stabilizer. Repeat this operation for the cuffs. Voila! Your blouse is complete!
6. Machine baste the collar to the neckline. I hope that you have enjoyed this
PatternMaker Project. In the future, I plan to
7. Finish the inside edge of the facing as you publish more PatternMaker Projects for
desire and stitch the neck edge to the blouse. beginners, intermediate, and advanced sewers.
Turn and edge stitch (a top stitch on the very The projects will utilize PatternMaker
edge through all layers) or do a facing stitch Software’s Deluxe Editor and Home Studio.
(a top stitch through just the facing and seam
allowances). If you have suggestions for future
PatternMaker Projects, please contact me at:
8. Put easing stitches in the sleeve caps.
[email protected].
9. Pin and stitch the sleeves to the armhole. 402 West Smith Avenue
There should be a notch that matches the Micanopy, FL 32667
shoulder seam. The elbow dart is the back of 352-466-5653
the sleeve.
Happy Sewing!
10. Pin and stitch the sleeve and side seams
. Jennifer Smith
11. Finish the side seams and sleeve seams as http://www.jksmithdesigns.com
you desire (overlock, zig zag, etc.)

©Jennifer Smith, 2004 PatternMaker Project Vintage Bustier Blouse 17