Duffle Coats

TP SIZES
1405 1-12
DUFFLE COAT LEVEL
Pro-Finish
or
Quick-Sew
Options
◆ SUITABLEFOR ADVENTUROUS BEGINNER - INTERMEDIATE

SEWERS (DEPENDING ON OPTIONS CHOSEN)
◆ HOOD OR COLLAR
◆ CAN ALSO BE FINISHED WITH REGULAR BUTTONS
◆ QUICK SEW OR PRO-FINISH OPTIONS THROUGHOUT
◆ COLOUR CODED PATTERN PIECES
◆ OVER 80 CLEAR COLOUR DIAGRAMS TO HELP YOU
CONSTRUCT THE PATTERN
Click to go to Contents page
Table of Contents
About the design 3
Size Guide and Materials Required 3
Mix and Match Options - Pro-Finish & Quick Sew 4
Mix It Up! 5
Printing Guide 5
How to Use this Pattern 6
Cutting Guide 7
Prepare the Pro-Finish front 8
Prepare the Pro-Finish back 10
Prepare the Pro-Finish lining 12
Sew the lining 14
Sew the Outer 16
Prepare the Hood 17
Prepare the Collar 19
Prepare the front flap & toggle ties 19
Attach the Hood or Collar 20
Assemble the Coat 21
Attach Toggles 24
Glossary 25
Photo Gallery 26
Pattern Pieces 27+
DISCLAIMER
All purchasers of Items from Tadah Patterns must carry out their own research to determine
whether or not any Standards (voluntary or otherwise) apply. If any Standards do apply, irre-
spective of your geographical location, then you must fully comply with those Standards. Tadah
Patterns will not be responsible for any failure of a purchaser to comply with any Standards that
may apply.
If you have any questions/comments about this pattern or need any help at all, please do not
hesitate to contact us via email any time at [email protected].
© Tadah Patterns® by Lauren Harris
No part of this pattern may be reproduced in any form, by electronic or mechanical means,
without the permission of Tadah Patterns™. The pattern contained within this document is copy-
right protected. Each person who wishes to use this pattern must purchase their own copy. The
pattern is authorised for use by home sewers and business owners producing small quantities
for resale. If you do use this pattern to produce items for sale I would appreciate if you could give
credit for the pattern, e.g. by writing “Pattern design by Tadah Patterns”. Thank you!
Duffle Coat - Page 2

Duffle Coat
Little adventurers can brave the coldest of winter chills or frock up for
fun with friends with this easy to complete duffle coat.
Fully lined, durable and always endearing, the duffle
coat boasts either a ‘quick-sew’ or ‘pro-finish’ so
you get to add your own contemporary twist to this
children’s fashion classic.
With the series of included styling options that
suit both boys and girls, your intrepid explorer can
hunker down for winter with the warmth of a hood or
be the toast of high tea with a simple-to-sew collar.
Foster a little extra flare with additional back panelling or keep it straight
and simple with the sleeker alternative.
There’s also the option of sweetly trimmed pockets just to provide additional stash points for the
treasure trove of childhood collecting.
However you choose to sew it, this multi-sized pattern is designed for sizes 1 – 12 and features co-
lour coding for ease of cutting. It is suitable for advanced beginner-intermediate sewers (depending
on options chosen) and works best with medium to heavy-weight fabric.
Size Guide & Materials Required

For each duffle coat you will need: Suitable fabrics for outer (medium-heavy weight fabrics):
• Fabric as shown below Wool, denim, chambray, polar fleece, corduroy, velveteen, quilt-
• 3 toggles ing cotton, drill, broadcloth.. There are so many possibilities!
• Coordinatimg thread, scissors Suitable fabric for lining (light-medium weight fabrics):
and general sewing supplies Quilting cotton, lawn, flanelette, fleece.
Size 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
33.8” 36.25” 38.5” 41” 43.25” 45.5” 48” 50.25” 52.75” 55” 57.5” 59.8”
Child’s Height
86cm 92cm 98cm 104cm 110cm 116cm 122cm 128cm 134cm 140cm 146cm 152cm
20.5” 21.25” 21.6” 22.5” 23.25” 24” 24.8” 26.75” 27” 28.3” 29.5” 30.7”
Child’s Chest
52cm 54cm 55cm 57cm 59cm 61cm 63cm 66cm 69cm 72cm 75cm 78cm
Finished Length 15.5” 16.75” 17.5” 18.25” 19” 19.75” 20.5” 21.25” 22” 22.75” 23.5” 24.25”
(shoulder - hem) 39cm 42.5cm 44.5cm 46cm 48cm 50cm 52cm 54cm 56cm 58cm 60cm 62cm
Fabric Requirements 35” 36” 37” 38” 60” 61” 62” 63” 64” 65” 66” 67”
for Outer 90cm 92cm 94cm 97cm 152cm 155cm 158cm 160cm 163cm 165cm 168cm 170cm
Fabric Requirements 43” 44” 45” 46” 48” 49” 50” 51” 52” 53” 54” 55”
for Lining 110cm 112cm 114cm 117cm 122cm 125cm 127cm 130cm 132cm 135cm 137cm 140cm

Mix and Match Options

Note: The options below are all independent of each other (i.e you are not locked in to doing all pro or quick
options). You can combine them - for example a collar with pro finish front, quick sew back and pro lining).
Hood OR Collar
Pro-Finish OR Quick-Sew
Toggle Purchased
fastening toggles
Front of Coat
sewn in sewn on top
Front
Pockets No pockets
Optional One piece

Panelled
Back of Coat
contrast back
back
bands
Facing No
facing
Lining

Mix it Up!
Add even more style and individuality to your Duffle coat with these ideas:
• Play around with embellishments on the back panels - a big bow, ruffles, lace overlay, ‘but-
terfly’ contrast.
• Add hidden snaps to the front panel for extra security
• Test out different types of closures - big buttons down the front flaps would look great!
• Experiment with trims and lace - on pockets, hems or sewn in to seams
• Try using different colours, textures and weights of fabric.
A Note About Sizing

This duffle coat is designed to be a slim fit. Please be aware of this before choosing your
size. If your child is between sizes, go up to the larger size.
It will fit the measurements given on page 3 with light layers underneath. However if you
plan to layer the coat with heavier/thicker layers, you will need to go up a size.
Printing Guide
• IMPORTANT: Print ONLY the pages needed according to the style and size you are making - refer to the
table below.
• Pattern can be printed on A4 or letter paper.
• Page scaling must be set to NONE or ‘Actual Size’. Make sure you double check the 1” square on each page
to make sure it has printed correctly BEFORE you begin cutting.
• Assemble pattern pieces by order, according to large number on the page, using the diagram on the next
page as a guide.
How to print with Layers

With the ‘Layers’ functionality you have the ability to print ONLY the size/s that you require, saving you ink
and also reducing the confusion of having many lines close together.
To do so:
• Select the Layers icon on the left of the screen
• OR go to View in the dropdown menu, then select Show/Hide > Navigation Panes > Layers
• You will now see a list of layers in the PDF. There will be one layer for each size and then an extra layer for
the page and pattern markings/labels. You can select which sizes to print by clicking the eye icon next
to the name of each layer. As you turn layers on and off using the eye icons, these changes will be reflected
on the screen. When you are ready, simply print your pattern as you usually would - being sure that the
scaling is set to NONE, Actual size or 100%.
• IMPORTANT: Make sure the ‘Pattern Markings’ & ‘Page Markings’ layers are ALWAYS ON when you
are printing, otherwise you will not see pattern/page labels and information , cut instructions, size mark-
ings, test squares etc.
If you are still confused and need more detailed guidance on using layers function check out our blog post
here www.tadahsewing.com.au/blogs/news/how-to-print-a-pdf-pattern-using-layers

Printing Table
Option Chosen Pages to Print
ALL coats 27-34
Hood 35-40
Collar 37, 41, 42
PRO-finish Front 43-45, 47-49
PRO-finish Back 46, 50-56, 59, 60
PRO-finish Lining 57, 58, 61-72
QUICK-sew Front 87, 88, 91-94
QUICK-sew Back 81, 82, 85, 87, 89, 90
QUICK-sew Lining 69, 70, 73-80, 83, 84
How to Use this Pattern

This pattern includes many different style and finishing options.
To make it easier to negotiate your way through the pattern,
look out for these little symbols:
When you see a step/section that has no symbol next to it like

this 1 that indicates that the step is neccessary for ALL
variations of the pattern.
If you see a step/section that has a symbol next to it like

this 1 that indicates that the step is neccessary for
the option/finish shown ONLY. If you are not using the
option/finish shown in the symbol then skip to the next step.
The symbols are as follows:
= Pro-Finish (see p4) = Collar
= Quick-Sew (see p4) = Hood

Cutting Guide
Notes before you begin:
• Please read through all of the instructions before you begin to cut or sew.
• SEAM ALLOWANCE is INCLUDED in this pattern and is 1/2” (1.27cm) unless otherwise stated.
• For best results, wash and iron all fabric before commencing and press all seams after sewing.
• When you see an asterisk* next to a word this is to let you know that the word is explained in more detail
in the glossary (on page 25).
• For additional detailed photos of this coat please visit the Tadah Patterns website at www.tadahpatterns.
com.au
Cutting out your fabric

There are so many possible combinations
in this pattern, that it is not possible to
show a cutting guide for each and every
combination.
On the right you will see a sample

cutting guide for a complete
QUICK-sew coat (size 12).
Lay your fabric out, then fold it with

right sides together.
Lay your pattern pieces on top and
move them around until you find the
most efficient way to use your fabric.
Outer
Lining
Some IMPORTANT things to remember when cutting:

* Take note and follow all instructions written on the pattern pieces (e.g ‘on fold’, how many to cut etc)
* Make sure your mark the MIDDLE and FRONT of the sleeve piece with an erasable fabric pen.
* Mark the button placement marks on the front flap pieces.
* For the PRO-finish front: On the lower front piece make sure you transfer the ‘M’ (for middle) from the
pattern pieces. This is to help with assembling the pattern later, as this piece can be confusing otherwise.
* For the PRO-finish front: If you are using directional fabric, make sure you take this in to account when
cutting your pocket lining. You will need to cut it upside down (as shown below) so that your print is the
right way up on the finished jacket.
* If you are using a medium (or light) weight fabric for the front flaps, you will need to cut 2 interfacing also.

Constructing the Pattern

IMPORTANT NOTE:
The first THREE sections of this pattern are for the PRO-FINISH options only. If you have not chosen to use
any pro-finish options (see p4 for choices) then please skip to the ‘Sew Lining’ section on page 14.
If you HAVE chosen a pro-finish for the front, back or lining of your Duffle Coat, please follow the required
section/s: * Prepare Pro-Finish front (page 8, below)
* Prepare the Pro-Finish back (page 10)
* Prepare the Pro-Finish lining (page 12)
Prepare the PRO-FINISH front

1 Take one outer pocket piece and one lining
pocket piece. Place the two pocket pieces right
sides
together. Sew along the top diagonal edges and
bottom edge ONLY (see diagram).
2 Clip the top corner (as shown)

and turn the pocket right side out.
Press carefully.
3 Turn the diagonal (sewn) top section of the

pocket over to expose the lining fabric.
Press thoroughly.
Lay pocket down on
4 Locate your front (outer) coat pieces. You 5 the lower front piece
should have two upper front pieces and two
of outer fabric.
lower front pieces. Lay them out as shown
Make sure the pocket
so that you can be sure you are sewing the
opening (where the
correct pieces in the next steps.
lining is exposed) is
Upper front on the opposite side
pieces to the M that you
marked when cutting
out the pattern pieces.
M Lower front
marked pieces
when
cutting

Sew along the Sew along the
6 bottom edge of sides and top of
pocket approx the pocket using
1/8” (3mm) from a basting stitch*
the edge using a approximately
regular stitch. 1/4” (6mm) from
the edge.
7 Take the
corresponding
Lay upper front
piece on top of
upper front piec- lower front piece
es (as you laid with right sides
out in step 4). together, lining up
the stright edge.
Sew as shown.
8 Press seam up 9 Repeat steps 1-8

and topstitch* with the remain-
1/8” (3mm) ing front pocket
from the seam. and front coat
pieces.
You have now finished

the PRO-FINISH front!
For the remainder of
this pattern, the simple
(one piece) front will
be shown in diagrams.
However, you will follow
the same steps using
these beautiful front
pieces.

Prepare the PRO-FINISH back

10 Fold one constrast
band piece in half
11 With the band still
inside out, press
12 Turn the constrast band right side
out. Position seam to be in the mid-
lengthwise. Sew along the seam apart. dle of the band and press thorough-
the long edge only. ly. Repeat with other band.
See page
5 for
some TIP:
ideas Do you
about own a loop
how to turner?
‘Mix it It makes
Up’ with turning
your a tube like
contrast this an
bands. easy 2
second job!
13 Place bands on 14 Take one ‘back

the ‘middle back’ side’ piece and
piece with the seam lay it on top of the
side facing DOWN. ‘middle back’ piece
with right side DOWN.
The constrast bands
should be poisitioned Begin pinning from the
so that the BOTTOM bottom, and pin right
edge of the band is on up to the shoulder.
the position guide (on
pattern piece). BE CAREFUL!
Both of these pieces are
BASTE constrast bands cut on a curve and you
in place approx 1/4” will need to manipulate
(6mm) from the edge. the pieces are a little
to pin (and then sew)
them together. But
MAKE SURE you do
NOT stretch/warp the
fabric in doing so.

15
Sew. 16 Press seam to
outside of coat.
Take care not
to stretch the Topstitch approx 1/8”
fabric as you (3mm) from the seam.
sew.
17 Repeat steps 14-16 with the other ‘back side’ piece.
You have now finished the PRO-FINISH back! For the remainder of
this pattern, the simple (one piece) back will be shown in diagrams
however you will Follow the same steps using this beautiful panelled
back piece.

Prepare the PRO-FINISH lining

This section is for Pro-Finish lining only. For the Quick-Sew lining skip to page 14.
18 Place the Pro-Finish back lining piece with You are going to begin sewing where the pin
right side up on your work surface. is. You will need to carefully move the back
facing piece as you sew to keep the raw edges
Lay the back facing piece on top as shown aligned.
with right side DOWN.
Tip: You may find it helpful to mark the cen-
trepoint of each piece, and use this as a guide
when sewing them together.
Business Tip:
This is the perfect spot to sew in your size and
care labels.
Pop them down in the middle of the curve on
your lining and pin in place.
Make sure your labels are straight when you get
to sewing that part of the curve.
19 Press seam up (towards

facing) and topstitch in place
approx 1/8” (3mm) from the
seam.

20 Next take your front Pro-Fin-

ish lining and front facing
pieces. Lay them out as shown Pair
so that you can be sure you
are sewing the correct pieces
in the next steps.
Pair
21 Start with one pair. Place pieces 22 Work your way up, pinning the front facing to the lining.
right sides together, lining up the Be careful not to stretch the fabric on the curves.
straight section as shown. Pin. Continue until you reach the shoulder.
Sew the seam, care-

fully following your
pinning.
23 Press seam allow-

ance AWAY from
facing.
Topstitch in place
approx 1/8” (3mm)
from seam. You have now finished the
PRO-FINISH lining! For the
remainder of this pattern,
the simple lining will be
shown in diagrams however
you will follow exactly the
same steps using this lovely
lining with facing.

Sew the Lining

For those who used the Pro-Finish lining option: Remember that for simplicity these diagrams will show
only the quick-finish pattern pieces, however you construct your lining exactly the same way, following the
steps below.
24 Lay back lining piece with right

side UP. Place front lining pieces
down on top with right sides
DOWN (right sides are facing).
Match shoulder seams and sew.
Press seams open.
TIP: Make sure your front When lining up the shoul-

lining pieces are the right way ders, make sure your front
around before sewing. Arm and back facing meet nicely
holes should be on the outside! at the shoulder seam.
Shoulder
25 Press shouler seams open, then lay
placement mark
lining down flat. Take one sleeve and
use the notch from the pattern piece
to determine which side it is (the Notch to front
notch is at the FRONT of the sleeve
head, hence attaches to the FRONT
lining).
First use the shoulder placement
mark (from pattern piece) to place
the sleeve head on the shoulder seam
(right side down). Match mark to
shoulder seam and Pin.
TIP: The sleeve head is NOT

symmetrical, so you MUST
use the placement marks to
position it correctly.
Carefully work your way towards the outside, pinning the sleeve to the arm hole as you go.
Stitch the sleeve on with 1/2” (12mm) seam allowance.

Be careful - check frequently to make sure the fabric below is not folded or bunched.
Optional: Press seam away from the sleeve and topstitch. REPEAT with the other sleeve.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE:

(DO NOT IGNORE THIS!!)
You need to leave a 6” (15cm) gap in one of your side
seams (in order to be able to turn the coat right side
out later). When sewing the side seams in step 26
below, leave a gap as shown here in one of the sides.
26 Fold lining with right sides

together to match side seams
as shown.
Pin
and then sew
side seams - starting
at the sleeve and
sewing all the way to the
bottom of the lining.
Remember to leave a gap in
one side seam (see
IMPORTANT NOTE above!)
Business Tip:
For the Quick-Sewer, this is a great spot to
sew in your size and care labels.
Pop them down on the side of the lining
(sandwiched between the layers).
Make sure your labels are straight when
sewing the side seam.
27 Press side seams towards the FRONT.

Sew the Outer

For those who used the Pro-Finish lining option: Remember that for simplicity these diagrams will show
only the quick-finish pattern pieces, however you construct your coat outer exactly the same way, following
the steps below.
28 Lay back outer piece with right

side UP. Place front outer pieces TIP: Make sure
down on top with right sides your front outer
DOWN (right sides are facing). pieces are the right
Match shoulder seams and sew. way around before
Press seams open. sewing. Arm holes
should be on the
outside!
29 Press shouler seams open, then lay

Shoulder
coat outer down flat. Take one sleeve
and use the notch from the pattern placement mark
piece to determine which side it is
(the notch is at the FRONT of the
Notch to front
sleeve head, hence attaches to the
FRONT coat piece).
First use the shoulder placement
mark (from pattern piece) to place
the sleeve head on the shoulder seam
(right side down). Match mark to
shoulder seam and Pin.
TIP: The sleeve head is NOT

symmetrical, so you MUST
use the placement marks to
position it correctly.
Carefully work your way towards the outside, pinning the sleeve to the arm hole as you go.
Stitch the sleeve on with 1/2” (12mm) seam allowance.

Be careful - check frequently to make sure the fabric below is not folded or bunched.
Optional: Press seam away from the sleeve and topstitch.

30 Repeat step 29 with the other

sleeve.
Then fold coat outer with
right sides together to match
side seams as shown.
Pin
and then sew
side seams - starting at the
sleeve and sewing all the way
to the hem.
Business Tip:
If you use side flag branding labels this a
good spot to sew them in.
Pop your label down on the side seam
(sandwiched between the layers).
Make sure your labels are straight when
sewing the side seam.
31 Press side seams towards the BACK.

Optional: Topstitch from underarm to hem.
Prepare the HOOD
32 Place hood lining pieces with right Repeat with the hood outer pieces.
sides together. Sew curved edge as Press seam open.
shown below. Press seam open.

33 Place two hood contrast pieces with

right sides together. Sew along the
bigger curved edge as shown.
MAKE SURE you are sewing the
correct side!!
34 Turn contrast piece right side out and

press thoroughly.
35 Turn outer hood so that it is right

sides out. Then place the contrast strip
on top with the raw (open) edge of the
strip lined up with the raw front edge
of the hood.
Pin contrast strip all the way around
the hood outer.
Tip: You could find the centre point of
the stirp and match it with the seam
lin on the hood to be sure you are
attaching it properly.
36 Take the hood lining (which should

still be inside out) and place it around
the hood outer. Hood outer and lining
will be right sides together.
Line up the long (front) edge of the
hood. The contrast strip should now
be sandwiched between the hood out-
er and hood lining.
Then transfer pins to include all layers.
Sew along the front edge of the hood.
37 Turn hood right side out and press

thoroughly.
Topstitch front edge of hood approx
1/8” (3mm) from the seam between
the hood and constrast strip.
Baste bottom of hood.
Set aside.

Prepare the COLLAR

38 Place collar pieces right sides 39 Clip corners as shown
Then turn right side out.
together. Sew along the out- Press thoroughly
side edge. Optional: Topstitch
Prepare the front flap and toggle ties

40 Take two front flap pieces and place them
right sides together. Sew along the two
short ends and one long side as shown.
41 Clip the corners. Turn flap right sides out

and press.
Optional: Topstitch
REPEAT with other flap piece.
The remainder of this section is to make the toggle ties used for the pro-finish closure.
If you have premade toggles or are using an alternative method of closure on your coat,
you can skip to the next section on page 20.
STOP: Do you own a 12mm

42 Take your toggle tie piece and fold it in half lengthwise with
wrong sides together. Press.
(1/2”) bias tape maker. If you
do, you can use it to fold your
toggle ties. A bias maker will
save you a tonne of time (and
potentially burnt fingers!).
43 Unfold tie piece, then fold each long side in to the middle and
press again.

44 With long sides still folded, fold strap in half lengthwise again. Press thoroughly (and pop a few pins in
too if you like).
Sew along the long, open side of the strap piece.
45 Carefully cut your toggle tie

piece in to three even pieces.
46 With each tie piece, fold it in half. Then press down the end of the tie to make a flat, folded tie piece as
shown below. Press thoroughly.
47 Grab one of your front flap pieces. Place your toggle ties on the ‘button placement’ marks with the raw
edge of the ties lined up with the raw (open) edge of the flap. Baste in place 3/4” (19mm) from the raw
edges.
Attach the Hood or Collar

48 Lay out your outer coat with right side up.
HOOD: Lay hood down on top with right side COLLAR: Lay collar down on top with the right
(outer fabric) DOWN. Line up the open edge of side (fabric you want seen) facing UP. Line up the
the hood with the neckline of the coat. Pin and open edge of the collar with the neckline of the
then baste in place approx 3/4” (19mm) from edge. coat. Pin and then baste in place approx 3/4”
(19mm) from the edge.
TIP: Mark the centre of the neckline with a pin and match it with the seam on the hood (or centre
point on the collar) for quick and accurate pinning.

Assemble the Coat

49 Lay your front flap pieces down each side of your outer coat. The flaps should be positioned 1/2”
(12mm) from the TOP EDGE of the neckline. Pin and then baste flaps in place.
1/2” gap at top
IMPORTANT!
If you are doing the Pro-Finish toggle ties, you need to place your flap piece with the toggle ties
facing DOWN.
It is also good to use the following conventions:
For a GIRLS coat: lay it down on the left side of the coat (as you look at it)
For a BOYS coat: lay it down on the right side of the coat (as you look at it).
50 Lay your lining and outer coat pieces RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER. Pin along the bottom hem.
Do not worry about pinning the remainder of the coat - at the moment we are only concerned with
sewing the hem.
Sew hem with regular 1/2” (12mm) seam allowance.

Press seam UP (towards lining) then open the jacket up and topstitch (from the right side) the seam
approx 1/8” (3mm) from the seam line.
PIN then SEW

51 Once you have topstitched the hem, lay your coat down again with lining and outer RIGHT sides
together (sleeves stay separate at this point).
Begin by matching the shoulder seams. Pin in place.
Then pin around the neckline - make sure your hood/collar stays in place.
Then work your way from the neckline down the front of the coat, sandwiching the front flap (and
toggle ties if using).
When you get to the bottom of the coat you will notice that the outer fabric actually wraps around and
goes up a little on the lining side. THIS IS EXACTLY HOW IT IS SUPPOSED TO LOOK!
Once you have it all pinned in place, sew carefully making sure that your hood/collar, front flaps and
toggle ties all stay in the right place as you sew.
52 Before turning the coat the right side out, we are going to prepare the sleeve hems.
On EACH sleeve (both lining and outer fabric) fold the hem up 1/2” (12mm) and press thoroughly.

53 Find the 6” gap that you left in one of

the side seams of the lining (I told you
that was important!!) and turn your
coat out through that hole.
Once your coat is turned out, remove
the basting stitches around the hood/
collar, on the front flaps and on the
toggle ties.
Use a chop stick or blunt pencil to
push out the corners.
Press your coat carefully. Then
topstitch down the front of the jacket
approx 1/8” (3mm) from the seam as
shown in red.
54 Line up your sleeve hems (pressed

in step 51) and join together by
topstitching as close to the edge as
possible.
55 Locate your gap in the lining. Pinch Then sew it closed as close as possible to the edge.
the gap between your fingers and
pin it closed.
TIP: If you would like a neater finish, you can hand sew the gap closed using a simple slip stitch.

Attach Toggles
56 For the Pro-Finish: Use

your toggle ties as a guide
to position your toggles/
buttons.
For the Quick-Sew: Place

57 your premade toggle
pieces in place according
to the placement marks
on the (front flap) pattern
piece.
Sew carefully in place.
Tadah!
Your fabulously cosy Duffle Coat is
now finished!

Glossary
Backstitch: Used to reinforce your sewing and help keep it from unraveling. Just put your machine in the
reverse position for a few stitches.
Baste: A series of long, loose stitches used to temporarily hold together two pieces of fabric during construc-
tion.
Bias Tape/Binding: A narrow piece of fabric cut on the bias (45 degrees to the selvedge) and used to bind
edges.
Edge Stitching: A stitch made very close to a folded edge, generally 1/8” or less, in order to finish a garment,
close an opening, or stitch something into place
Fabric Grain: Grain is the way the fabric is woven or knitted together. If you look really closely at your fabric
you will see little threads that run parallel and perpendicular to the selvage. This is the grain of the fabric.
Gather: Pulling fabric into tiny pleats for a decorative effect. To create a gather sew a basting stitch on the
right side of the fabric leaving long tails of thread. Gently tug the bobbin threads to evenly gather the fabric.
Hem: The bit you turn up at the bottom of a garment to keep it neat and stop it fraying.
Miter: Mitering a corner makes a smooth, tidy finish to a 90-degree corner, neatly squaring the corners while
creating a diagonal seam from the point of the corner to the inside edge.
Notches: Diamond shaped marks on the edge of the pattern, to help you to line up all the pattern pieces
when you sew the garment.
Overlock: A stitch made by an overlocker that cuts and finishes the fabric edge.
Pinking Shears: Scissors with a V shape along the cutting edge used to cut fabric. Pinking your edges will
help them remain essentially ravel-free.
Pressing: Pressing is different from ironing. For pressing use a dampened pressing cloth rather than steam,
pick the iron up off the cloth and move it, rather than rubbing back and forth.
Raw Edge: The cut edge of a piece of garment (not stitched or finished). It may fray or unravel if left in this
state.
Right Side: The outside or top side of fabric; usually softer or smoother, or printed
Rolled Hem: Usually sewn by an overlocker (refer to your manual for directions). It can also be done by
hand with a folding technique – fold, fold again, fold again, and stitch through the rolled hem you have creat-
ed.
Snap: A closure device generally composed of two parts, male and female. Snaps can be sewn in or you can
use a special snap tool to attach snaps to the fabric.
Top Stitching: A decorative stitch usually sewn 1/4” from the edge of a seam.
Wrong Side: The inside or back side of fabric; usually rougher or less finished.
Zig Zag Stitch: A machine stitch with a continuous “Z” type design that allows seams to stretch; a medi-
um-wide zig zag can be used on the raw edge of fabric to prevent fraying.

Photo Gallery

1”
Test
Square
Button/Toggle
Placement Marks
All sizes
(top button/toggle)
1
Duffle Coat
Front Flap
Cut 4
Optional:
Cut 2 interfacing (if
using medium
weight fabric)
d)
d)
2 1”
Test
Square
3 1”
Test
Square
4 1”
Test
Square
5
1”
Test
Square
Front of
Sleeve
6 Duffle Coat
Sleeve
1”
Test
Outer: Cut 2 (mirrored)
Square
Lining: Cut 2 (mirrored)
7
1”
Test
Square
8
1”
Test
Square
1”
Test
Square
Coat
d
(mirrored)
9
Duffle Coa
10
Hood Contrast B
Cut 2
1”
Test
Square
(mirrored)
(mirrored)
Coat
d
1”
Test
Square
le Coat
11
ntrast Band
ut 2
1”
Test
Square
12
131”
Test
Square
Duffle Coa
Hood
Outer: Cut 2 (mirro
Duffle Coa
Duffle Coa
Hood
Outer: Cut 2 (mirro
fle Coat
Lining: Cut 2 (mirr
Cut 1
1”
Test
Square
Toggle Tie Piece

14
15
1”
Co ut 2
t
Test
a
Square
r
o
la
C
C
l
e ff l
Du
All Sizes
1”
Test
Square
16
1”
Test
Square
17
18
1”
Test
Square
PRO-FINISH
Duffle Coat
Front Pocket
Cut 2 (mirrored)
outer fabric
Cut 2 (mirrored) linin
1”
Test
Square
NISH
Coat
ocket
rored)
19
abric
ed) lining
1”
Test
20
Square
PRO-FINISH
21
Duffle Coat
Front Upper
Cut 2
1”
Test
Square
1”
Test
Square
Mark middle
M
PRO-FINISH
22
Duffle Coat
Duffle Coat
1”
Front Lower
Test
Square
Cut 2
23
1”
24
Test
Square
PRO-FINISH
Duffle Coat
Back Side Panel
Cut 2 (mirrored)
outer fabric
1”
Test
Square
25
PRO-FINISH
26
1”
Test
Square
O-FINISH
1”
Test
Square
PRO-FINISH
Duffle Coat
Contrast Strip
Cut 2
27
Cut 2 (mirrored)
outer fabric
1”
28
Test
Square
PRO-FINISH
29
1”
Test
Square
Duffle Coa
Back Mid Pa
Cut 1 oute
O-FINISH
1”
Test
30
fle Coat
Square
Mid Panel
1 outer
1”
Test
Square
31
1”
Test
Square
1”
32
Test
Square
1”
Test
Square
33
34
1”
Test
Square
35
1”
Test
Square
PRO-FINISH
Duffle Coat
Back Lining
Cut 1 (on fold)
36
1”
Test
Square
INISH
Coat
ining
n fold)
1”
Test
Square
37
PRO-FINISH
Duffle Coat
Front Yoke
Cut 2 (mirrored)
outer fabric
1”
Test
Square
38
391”
Test
Square
401”
Test
Square
Front Yoke
Cut 2 (mirrored)
outer fabric
41
PRO-F
Duffle
Front
Cut 2 (m
1”
Test
Square
42
PRO-FINISH
1”
Test
Square
Duffle Coat
Front Lining
Cut 2 (mirrored)
PRO-FINISH
43
1”
Test
Duffle Co
Square
Back Yok
Cut 1 outer fa
NISH
44
1”
ffle Coat Test

Square
Back Yoke
t 1 outer fabric
451”
Test
Square
461”
Test
Square
47
1”
Test
Square
QUICK SEW
Duffle Coat
Front Lining
Cut 2
1”
Test
48
Square
1”
Test
Square
49
1”
Test
Square
50
1”
51
Test
Square
52
1”
Test
Square
53
1”
Test
QUICK S
Square
Duffle C
Back Lin
Cut 1 (on
1”
Test
Square
54
UICK SEW
uffle Coat
ack Lining
ut 1 (on fold)
1”
Test
Square
55
1”
Test
Square
56
571”
Test
Square
581”
Test
Square
1”
59
Test
Square
QUICK SEW
Duffle Coat
Back Outer
Cut 1 (on fold)
SEW
Coat
Outer
n fold)
60 1”
Test
Square
1”
Test
Square
61
1”
Test
Square
62
1”
Test
Square
63
64
1”
Test
Square
1”
QUICK SEW
65
Test
Square
Duffle Coat
Front Outer
Cut 2
SEW
66
1”
Test
Square
Coat
Outer
2
1”
Test
67
Square
68
1”
Test
Square

Duffle Coats

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Duffle Coats

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Duffle Coats

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What are the different options available for finishing the coat?

What are the different options available for finishing the coat?

What are the steps to cut out and assemble the coat?

What are the steps to cut out and assemble the coat?

TP SIZES

DUFFLE COAT LEVEL

◆ SUITABLEFOR ADVENTUROUS BEGINNER - INTERMEDIATE

Duffle Coat - Page 2

Size Guide & Materials Required

Duffle Coat - Page 3

Mix and Match Options

sewn in sewn on top

Optional One piece

Duffle Coat - Page 4

A Note About Sizing

How to print with Layers

Duffle Coat - Page 5

How to Use this Pattern

When you see a step/section that has no symbol next to it like

If you see a step/section that has a symbol next to it like

The symbols are as follows:

= Pro-Finish (see p4) = Collar

= Quick-Sew (see p4) = Hood

Duffle Coat - Page 6

Cutting out your fabric

On the right you will see a sample

Lay your fabric out, then fold it with

Some IMPORTANT things to remember when cutting:

Duffle Coat - Page 7

Constructing the Pattern

Prepare the PRO-FINISH front

2 Clip the top corner (as shown)

3 Turn the diagonal (sewn) top section of the

Duffle Coat - Page 8

8 Press seam up 9 Repeat steps 1-8

You have now finished

Duffle Coat - Page 9

Prepare the PRO-FINISH back

13 Place bands on 14 Take one ‘back

Duffle Coat - Page 10

17 Repeat steps 14-16 with the other ‘back side’ piece.

Duffle Coat - Page 11

Prepare the PRO-FINISH lining

19 Press seam up (towards

Duffle Coat - Page 12

20 Next take your front Pro-Fin-

Sew the seam, care-

23 Press seam allow-

Duffle Coat - Page 13

Sew the Lining

24 Lay back lining piece with right

TIP: Make sure your front When lining up the shoul-

TIP: The sleeve head is NOT

Stitch the sleeve on with 1/2” (12mm) seam allowance.

Duffle Coat - Page 14

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE:

26 Fold lining with right sides

27 Press side seams towards the FRONT.

Duffle Coat - Page 15

Sew the Outer