WELCOME TO

RIJEKA
Broj / Issue 3 | SijeČanj / January 2011 | Godina / Year 2 Nije za prodaju / Not for sale

Zvončari//Bell
vončari Bellringers
Ringers
Najbučnije nematerijalno
jbučnije nematerijalno
dobro s UNESCO-ve
he Noisiest liste
Intangible
The
oodNoisiest Intangible
on UNESCO’s list
Goods
oodon
onUNESCO’s
UNESCO’slist list
I Intervju
ntervju/ Interview
/ Interview
ade
RadeŠerbedžija
Šerbedžija
Boćanje / Playing
ntervju Bocce
/ Interview
I Igra mornara
ornara koja
koja je zje
zaludila mediteran
ludila mediteran
Asailors'
sailors'game
gamethat
that has
ffascinated
scinatedthe
theMediterranean
Mediterranean
 6. Uvodnik / Editorial
Tema broja / This edition theme
8. Zvončari - Najbučnije nematerijalno dobro s Unesco-ve liste
Bell Ringers - the Noisiest Intangible Goods on Unesco's list

Intervju / Interview
18. Rade Šerbedžija

Novi grad / New City

24. Riječki karneval - Maska skrojena prema gradu, grad skrojen
prema maski
The Rijeka Carnival - A mask tailored to the shape of the city, a city
tailored to the shape of the mask
30. Znanstveno-tehnologijski park - Sinergija znanosti i poduzetništva
The Science and Technology Park - Synergy of science and free
enterprise
32. "Mala galerija" riječke obitelji Bruketa - Ambasador kulture diljem svijeta
The Bruketa Family from Rijeka’s "Mala Galerija" Gallery, an Ambassador
IMPRESSUM for culture throughout the world

NAKLADNIK / PUBLISHER 36. Riječke knjižare - Knjigama je u Rijeci ugodno

Hand Press d.o.o. Bookstores in Rijeka - Books feel comfortable in Rijeka
J.Trdine 2, 51 000 Rijeka
e-mail: [email protected]
40. Glagoljaški korijeni grada
Glagolitic city origins
UREDNIČKI KOLEGIJ / EDITORIAL BOARD
Petar Škarpa, Ermina Duraj, Lea Stoiljković 43. Prosinac u Rijeci ili kako se grad pretvara u najljepšu bajku
Medved, Ljiljana Mamić Pandža, Velid Đekić, December in Rijeka or how the city becomes the most beautiful fairy tale
Igor Rivetti, Sandra Ivanišević
46. Atletska dvorana u Rijeci - Najmodernija atletska dvorana u Hrvatskoj
GRAFIČKO OBLIKOVANJE / GRAPHIC DESIGN The Rijeka Athletics Hall - The most modern athletics hall in Croatia
Marijan Baćac
48. Vaterpolo - Riječani žive vaterpolo
NOVINARI / JOURNALISTS Water-polo - Rijeka inhabitants live for water-polo
Andrea Bralić Marić, Sandi Bujan Cvečić, Velid Đekić,
Ljiljana Mamić Pandža, Ingrid Šestan Kučić, Lidija 50. Boćanje - Igra mornara koja je zaludila Mediteran
Šušak, Larry Ambrozich, Josipa Šimić, Silvia Vidović Bocce - A sailors' game that has fascinated the Mediterranean
FOTOGRAFIJE / PHOTOGRAPHS
Rino Gropuzzo, Nick Turina, Davor Žunić, 55. Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - Events
Ivo Matulić, Ante Škrobonja, Branko Kukurin,
Mladen Urem i Vinko Antić Izložba / Exhibition
MARKETING 64. Vlado Kristl - prešućivani genij i ekscentrik
Hand Press d.o.o. Vlado Kristl - an unrevealed genius and eccentric
e-mail: [email protected]
PRIJEVODI / TRANSLATION Tako je nekada bilo / This is how it once was
Prolingua-Ri d.o.o. 68. Pojas za spašavanje s Titanika - Nijemi svjedok najpoznatije
katastrofe 20. stoljeća
TISAK / PRINTED BY
Life belt from Titanic - A silent witness to the most famous
Grafički zavod Hrvatske d.o.o.
Radnička cesta 210 catastrophe of 20th century
10000 Zagreb
Zoom
DISTRIBUCIJA / DISTRIBUTION 70. Ante Škrobonja
HP d.d.
NAKLADA / EDITION Slasni kutak / Tasty corner
4000 kom 75. Grobnička polenta kompirica - Težačko jelo za blagdanski stol
Grobnik palenta with potatoes - A farmer's meal for the Holiday Table
ISSN 1847-5019
Izlazi dva puta godišnje
78. Restoran Municipium
Municipium restaurant
published twice a year
Časopis je realiziran u suradnji sa 80. Sabrage Pub na Trsatu
Sabrage Pub on Trsat
Turističkom zajednicom grada Rijeke
This magazine was launched in 82. Press clipping - Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us
collaboration with the Rijeka Tourist Board
8.

18. 24. 32.

36. 40. 46.

50. 64. 75.

6

Editorial
We love Rijeka! It sounds like the beginning of a supporter’s song,
but it is actually our everyday life. Just by loving everything that
makes this city and its inhabitants, we can create a magazine that
tells the stories of Rijeka.
By creating the “Welcome to Rijeka” magazine, we always have nu-
merous themes that we would like to share with you and for this
third edition, let us take you on a bell ringers' tour around the Rijeka
surroundings, the very tour that the bell ringers take every year du-
ring the carnival period.
We have tried to evoke the carnival spirit in the same way it is expe-
rienced by the people from the Croatian Littoral. We invite you to
the walk along Rijeka’s streets in search of a good book. We will
take you into the museums to see a life-jacket from the Titanic or
fragments of Glagolitic alphabet texts, found in a glossary of Rijeka’s
monasteries.
We will bring you the story about bocce bowls, the favourite pasti-
me of Rijeka’s inhabitants. So together let’s head to Rijeka!
Editorial board
 7

Uvodnik
Mi volimo Rijeku. Zvuči kao početak navijačke pjesme, a zapravo je
naša svakodnevnica. Samo uz ljubav prema svemu što čini ovaj grad i
njegove ljude možemo stvarati časopis koji priča riječke priče.
Stvarajući "Welcome to Rijeka" uvijek imamo pregršt tema koje želi-
mo podijeliti sa vama, pa nam tako dozvolite da vas u ovom, trećem
broju, povedemo na zvončarski ophod okolicom Rijeke, putem kojim
zvončari kreću svake godine u karnevalsko vrijeme.
Karneval smo vam pokušali dočarati onako kako
ga doživljavaju Primorci. Pozivamo vas na šetnju
riječkim ulicama u potrazi za dobrom knjigom.
U muzeje vas vodimo da pogledate pojas
za spasavanje s Titanika ili fragmente
glagoljaških tekstova pronađene
u riznicama riječkih samostana.
Imamo i priču o boćanju,
omiljenoj zabavi Riječana.
Krenimo još jednom zajedno u Rijeku!
Urednički kolegij
8
Tema broja / This edition theme Piše / Written by: Slavica Mrkić Modrić Fotografije / Photos: Branko Kukurin

Zvončarska zvona u Primorju istim

intenzitetom zvone već stoljećima
The bell ringers’ bells have been
ringing in the Croatian Littoral with
the same strength for centuries

Zvončari
najbučnije nematerijalno
dobro s UNESCO-ve liste
Bell Ringers - the noisiest
intangible goods on UNESCO’s list
 9

Dok je zvonaca bit će i zvončara i zvončarskih ophoda, iako

zvončar ne može biti svatko. To je prije svega velika čast, izi-
skuje veliku snagu, volju i odricanje, a u nekim zvončarskim
skupinama podrazumijeva i korijene. Tradicija se prenosi s
koljena na koljeno, pa je u zvončarskim ophodima zvonilo i
po nekoliko generacija, šećući istim šumama, istim putevi-
ma i stazicama, livadama i proplancima. Iste su ih obitelji
generacijama dočekivale, iste su se pjesme pjevale i svirale,
s istim jelima i pićima su se gostili.
Zvuk zvona, u Munama i Žejanama na blagdan sv. Tri kralja,
a zvuk roga u ostatku nekadašnjeg kastavskog komuna na
blagdan sv. Antona, označavaju početak Mesopusta i vlada-
vinu maškara, feštara, partenjaka i njihove visosti – zvonča-
ra. Stoljećima bez titule, a od siječnja 2010. godine s titulom
jednog od čak deset hrvatskih nematerijalnih kulturnih do-
bara koje je UNESCO uvrstio na svoju listu, zvončari su po-
sebnost karnevalskoga svijeta ne samo Hrvatskoga primorja,
već i cijele Lijepe naše. Na području Primorsko – goranske
županije djeluje petnaestak zvončarskih skupina, među koji-
ma su najpoznatiji Halubajski zvončari ili zvončari Viškova i
Marčelja, slijede zvončari matuljskoga kraja – Brežanski, Br-
gujski, Mučićevi, Munjski, Rukavački, Zvonećanski, Žejan-
ski, Frlanski i zvončari područja Korensko – Vlahov breg. Na
Grobnišćini su aktivni Dondolaši, a na istoku riječkoga pri-
grada najmlađa skupina “pod zvonom„ - Kukuljanski zvon-
čari. Jedini gradski ili riječki zvončari su Zametski zvončari.
Postoje razlike u odijevanju, u koraku, u ophodu, u kolu, u

As long as there are bells, there will be bell ringers as well as

bell ringers processions, although not everyone can become
a bell ringer. It is above all a great honour that asks for re-
markable strength, will and renunciation and in some bell
ringers groups it means origins too. The tradition is passed
down from generation to generation so that in some bell
ringers processions, several generations might be ringing
together walking through the same forests, down the same
roads and paths, meadows and lawns. The same families
have been welcoming them for generations and the same
songs have been sung and played, and the same dishes and
beverages have been eaten and drunk.
The sound of the bell in Mune and Žejane, on the Christian
feast day of Epiphany and the sound of the horn in other
parts of the old Municipality of Kastav on the St. Anthony
holiday mark the start of the carnival period and the rule of
masks, a feast and party people and their highnesses – the
bell ringers. Bell ringers, who have been without a title for
centuries and who in January 2010 received the title of one
of ten intangible cultural goods in Croatia to be included in
the UNESCO World Heritage list and which, are a particu-
larity of the carnival world, not only in the Croatian Littoral
but in the entire country as well. There are around fifteen
bell ringers groups who perform in the area of the County
of Primorje and Gorski kotar of which the most famous are
the Halubje Bell ringers or the bell ringers from Viškovo
and Marčelji, followed by the bell ringers from the area of
Matulji – from the villages of Bregi, Brgud, Mučići, Mune,
 10

Rukavac, Zvoneće, Žejane, Frlanija together with bell ring-

ers from the area of Korensko – Vlahov breg. In the area of
Grobnik act Dondolaši, and on the eastern part of Rijeka’s
suburbs we can find the youngest group “under the bell”
known as the Kukuljanovo Bell ringers. The only bell ring-
ers from the city of Rijeka are the Zamet Bell ringers. They
differ with their costumes, with the way they walk in pro-
cession, round dance, number and the dimensions of their
bells, masks as well as a few other details. However, the
thing they all have in common is the bell ringing.

With Noise against the Evil

Legends tell us why bell ringers ring and what their origins
are. Whatever legend we believe or perhaps connect to, de-
pend entirely on ourselves. The first legend connects the
bell ringers’ tradition to the awaking of nature, when the
shepherds went into the mountains with their herds and
put on sheep skins and bells with the purpose of chasing
away evil forces from their herds with their scary looks and
their ringing. They believed that the noise they produced
chased away the evil spells. Over the years, bells have be-
come the symbol of luck and good. The legend that con-
nects the appearance of bell ringers with the Grobnik field
is a legend about defending these areas from the Ottoman
raids. This legend tells us that shepherds, without knowing
how to oppose such a powerful enemy, used tricks putting
on sheep skins and wearing bells around their waists with
bloody animal skins on their heads and with their masks,
broju i veličini zvonaca, u maski i još ponekim detaljima, no
ono što je svima njima zajedničko jest zvonjava.

Bukom protiv zla

A zašto zvončari zvone i kako su nastali kazat će nam legen-
de. Za koju ćemo se opredijeliti ili ih možda spojiti, ovisi o
nama samima. Prva legenda zvončarsku tradiciju vezuje uz
buđenje prirode kad bi pastiri sa stadima kretali u planine
te navlačili ovčje kože, a oko struka vješali zvonca. Sve to s
ciljem da zastrašujućim izgledom i zvonjavom potjeraju zle
sile od svojih stada. Vjerovali su da buka koju stvaraju zvo-
na tjeraju uroke. Tijekom godina zvono je postalo simbo-
lom sreće i dobra. Legenda koja pojavu zvončara vezuje uz
Grobničko polje, legenda je o obrani ovih krajeva od Tura-
ka. Ta pak kaže da su, ne znajući kako se oduprijeti moćnom
neprijatelju, pastiri posegnuli za lukavstvom pa se ogrnu-
li ovčjim kožama i opasali zvonima, na glave stavili krvave
životinjske kože i tako zamaskirani dočekali neprijatelje.
Brojčanu nemoć prikrili su tako što su od stabla kukurozo-
vine radili ljudski lik, pa je neprijatelju izgledalo kako ima
posla s brojčano jakom vojskom. Strašnim vizualnim i zvuč-
nim efektom, legenda kaže, uspjeli su pobijediti i otjerati
znatno jačeg neprijatelja.
Zvončari bivšeg kastavskog komuna su sve do Rapalskog
sporazuma izgledali isto – životinjska maska koja pokriva
glavu, kožuh, zvonca, a u ruci bačuka. Kad je Rapalskim spo-
razumom zapadni dio Kastavštine pripao Kraljevini Itali-
ji, rukavački zvončari, kao i oni iz Zvoneća, Bregi, Mučići,
Vlahova Brega, Korenskog itd. dobili su zabranu nošenja
 11

Prva legenda zvončarsku tradiciju vezuje waited for their enemies to arrive. They hid their numeric
uz buđenje prirode kad bi pastiri sa stadima disability by making human characters out of maize stalks
so that the enemy thought he was dealing with a numerical-
kretali u planine te navlačili ovčje kože,
ly powerful army. According to the legend, they managed
a oko struka vješali zvonca. Sve to s ciljem to win and chase away a significantly stronger enemy with
da zastrašujućim izgledom i zvonjavom their scary visual and sound effects.
potjeraju zle sile od svojih stada
The bell ringers from the old Municipality of Kastav looked
The first legend connects the bell ringers’ the same up until the Treaty of Rapallo – animal mask cov-
ering the head, sheepskin coats, and bells and in their hands
tradition to the awaking of nature, when
a bačuka. When the western part of the Kastav area became
the shepherds went into the mountains part of the Kingdom of Italy by the Treaty of Rapallo, the
with their herds and put on sheep skins Rukavac Bell ringers as well as those from Zvoneće, Bregi,
and bells with the purpose of chasing away Mučići, Vlahov Breg, Korensko were forbidden from wear-
evil forces from their herds with their ing animal masks and began wearing the so called, krabujo-
scary looks and their ringing snice, hats with flowers made of crepe paper. The eastern
part of the old Municipality of Kastav remained within the
zoomorfnih maski te su počeli nositi tzv. krabujosnice - borders of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia and this contributed
šešire s cvijećem od krep papira. Istočni dio nekadašnjega to the fact that their appearance did not change significant-
kastavskog komuna ostao je unutar granica Kraljevine Ju- ly until today.
goslavije, što je pridonijelo da se njihov izgled do današnjih
dana nije bitnije promijenio. Bell ringer, Thief, Bear, Devil
Even though bell ringer groups have many similarities,
Zvončar, Tat, Medved, Vrag their differences are not insignificant either. How they once
Iako zvončarske skupine imaju puno sličnosti, ni razlike lived, how they dressed and through which metamorphosis
im nisu male. Kako je nekad živjela, kako se odijevala i koje they passed up until the present day, the bell ringers group
je metamorfoze do današnjih dana pretrpjela zvončarska from Halubje or the Halubje Bell ringers, are the most nu-
skupina s Halubja ili Halubajski zvončari, najbrojnija zvon- merous bell ringers association in our area, and will be the
čarska udruga našega kraja, bit će primjer iz kojeg se može example from which the destiny of the other bell ringers
iščitati sudbina i ostalih zvončara. can be read as well.
 12

ETNOLOGINJA LIDIJA NIKOČEVIĆ O ZVONČARIMA NEKADAŠNJEG KASTAVSKOG KOMUNA

UNESCO-va poruka - jako cijenimo vašu tradiciju

Etnologinju Lidiju Nikočević, ravnateljicu Etnografskoga znanstvena istraživanja, osnivanje Centra za dokumentaci-
muzeja Istre i članicu Povjerenstva za nematerijalnu kultur- ju i posjetitelje, programi i radionice za posjetitelje, radio-
nu baštinu Republike Hrvatske, odmah po dobivanju UNES- nice za djecu i drugo). UNESCO-va je ocjenjivačka komisija
CO-vog prestižnog priznanja upitali smo što za Hrvatsku, a pozitivno ocijenila taj program, no sada se postavlja pitanje
što za zvončare i ostale koji su se našli na UNESCO-voj listi tko će pokazati interes da ga implementira. Kao ravnatelji-
kulturne nematerijalne baštine znači to priznanje, pogotovo ca ustanove u susjednoj, istarskoj županiji to ne mogu biti
što ono znači u praksi. (samo) ja. Predlože li se dobri projekti ministarstvima u
Hrvatskoj i Europskim fondovima, svakako postoji velika
– Hrvatska može biti vrlo zadovoljna s količinom kulturnih
mogućnost dobivanja financijske pomoći. Pretpostavka za
dobara na UNESCO-voj reprezentativnoj listi. UNESCO-vo
to je sudjelovanje lokalnih zajednica i, često, suradnja više
rješenje ne donosi Djeda Mraza s poklonima, već poruku –
zajednica. Upravo to može biti problem, jer zajednice koje
jako cijenimo vašu tradiciju, doista je jedinstvena i vrijed-
imaju svoje zvončarske grupe dijelom su razjedinjene u više
na u svjetskim okvirima i ukoliko smislite dobre načine za
različitih općina. Osim te administrativne prepreke, još se
očuvanje i popularizaciju iste, mnoga vam vrata mogu biti
većom čini heterogenost pogleda na sam običaj različitih
otvorena. Praktična vrijednost ovoga postignuća, dakle,
zvončarskih skupina pa i svojevrstan konkurentski odnos
ovisi prvenstveno o nastojanju lokalnih zajednica i trudu
među nekima. No to je već element tradicijske kulture po
djelatnika u oblasti kulture, prosvjete i turizma. Već postoje
sebi i ugrađen je u značenje ovog običaja, pa ga kao takvog
određene aktivnosti i projekti u Rukavcu, Matuljima, Viš-
treba i interpretirati.
kovu i uzimajući ih u obzir u tekstu nominacije predložila
sam daljnje mjere zaštite i niz programa za očuvanje i popu- Zapravo, čini mi se da su djelatnici na razini Županije ti koju
larizaciju ovog običaja (sakupljanje dokumentacije, putu- trebaju poduzeti prve korake u tom smjeru, svakako u surad-
juća izložba, popularne publikacije i internetska stranica, nji sa lokalnom zajednicom.
 13

Prvi pisani podaci o tradiciji zvonjenja na Halubju datira- The first written data with regard to the tradition of bell ring-
ju iz 1860. godine. Zapis se veže uz devetoricu stanovni- ing on Halubje dates back to 1860. The note is connected to
ka sela Marčelji koji su od mariborske ljevaonice naručili the nine inhabitants of the village of Marčelji who ordered
devet zvonaca obujma od 7 do 9 litara. Upravo ta narudž- nine bells from the Maribor foundry with a volume of be-
ba smatra se začetkom današnjih Halubajskih zvončara. tween 7 to 9 litres. It is precisely this order that is considered
Halubajski stoga što su i oni i kraj iz kojeg dolaze dobili to be the beginning of today’s Halubje Bell ringers. They are
naziv po halubama – kolibicama od drva, kamena ili sla- known as the Halubje Bell ringers because they and the area
me u koju bi se za nevremena sklanjali pastiri. U zapisima they came from received the name from the halube – the
etnologa Ive Jardasa nailazimo na opis zvončarske kolo- small cottages made of wood, stone or straw in which the
ne iz prve polovice prošloga stoljeća. Tako Jardas piše da shepherds would shelter during the bad weather. Amongst
su ondašnji zvončari na leđima nosili ovčju kožu, na glavi ethnologist Ivo Jardas' notes a description can be found of
masku od ovčje ili kunićeve kože koja je imala nos nači- the bell ringers line from the first half of the 20th century.
njen od oguljenog klipa kukuruza, te otvore za oči i usta. In this way Jardas writes that bell ringers of the past wore
Maska je imala i čeljust koja se mogla pomicati uzicom pa sheep skins on their backs, and masks made of sheep or rab-
je stoga dobila ime klockalica. Oko pojasa su nosili pet do bit skin on their head which had a nose made of a peeled
šest malih zvona, u desnoj ruci toljagu zvanu bačuka, a u corncob with holes for their eyes and mouth. The mask also
lijevoj čarapu punu pepela. Bili su obuveni u opanke i obo- had a jaw that could be moved by using a string and for this
jane vunene čarape (crvene, zelene ili plave) navučene do reason was called the klockalica. Around their waists they
koljena. Zvončari su imali i obaveznu pratnju koju su činili wore 6 small bells, in their right hands they carried a cudgel
Vrag, Tat (lopov) i Medved (medvjed). Vrag je bio odjeven known as the bačuka, and in the left a sock full of ashes. On
u crno, na glavi je imao crnu masku s prorezima za oči i their feet they wore strapped soft soled footwear and colour-
usta s dugačkim krpenim crvenim jezikom. Zadatak mu je ful socks (red, green or blue) which were pulled up to their
bio da trčkarajući uz zvončare s nacrnjenim rukama maže knees. Bell ringers had obligatory company made up of the
lica svih koji im se nađu na putu. Medvjeda su vodili na Devil, a Thief, and a Bear. The Devil wore a black suit with
lancu i dok je on plesao tat je ulazio ljudima u kuću i krao a black mask with holes for his eyes and mouth, and a long
sve što mu je pod ruku došlo. Pokradeno su ukućani poslije red cloth tongue on his head. His task was to jump around
morali od njega otkupiti jelom i pićem. the bell ringers and to dirty everyone on their way with his

ETHNOLOGIST LIDIJA NIKOČEVIĆ TALKING ABOUT BELL RINGERS FROM THE OLD MUNICIPALITY OF KASTAV

UNESCO’s Message - We Respect Your Tradition

We asked ethnologist, Lidija Nikočević, manageress of the the founding of a Visitors and Documentation Centre, pro-
Ethnographic Museum of Istria and member of the Com- grams and workshops for visitors, workshops for children
mission for the intangible cultural heritage of the Republic and other such things). UNESCO’s commission has posi-
of Croatia, after we won this prestigious UNESCO acknowl- tively evaluated this program, but now there is the question
edgment, what does this acknowledgement mean for Croatia of who is going to show enough interest in order to imple-
and what does it mean for the bell ringers and others who ment it. As institute manageress in the neighbouring Istria
have found themselves on UNESCO’s list of cultural intangi- County, I am not the only one to be able to do this. There
ble heritage and particularly what does it mean in practice. is certainly a great possibility of getting financial help if
good projects are suggested to the Ministries for Croatian
Croatia can be very satisfied with the quantity of cultural
and European funds. The presumption for this is the par-
goods it has and which are included on UNESCO’s Repre-
ticipation of local tourist boards and often the collabora-
sentative list. UNESCO's results are not brought by Santa
tion between more boards. This could represent a problem
Claus with gifts - but with a message - we greatly respect
as boards having their own bell ringers groups are mainly
your tradition, it is truly unique and valuable within all
divided amongst a number of different municipalities. Be-
world frames and if you create good ways of preserving and
sides this administrative barrier, an even greater barrier
popularizing it, many doors may be opened for you. The
seems to be the heterogeneity of views towards the same
practical value of this accomplishment then depends pri-
custom of different bell ringers’ groups as well as a kind of
marily on local boards and employees' efforts in cultural,
competitive relationship between some of them. But this is
education and tourism sectors. Activities and projects in
already an element of traditional culture which has been
Rukavac, Matulji and Viškovo already exist and taking
inserted by itself within the meaning of this custom and
them into consideration when I wrote the nominees text, I
should be interpreted as such.
suggested the following protection measures and a series
of programs for the preservation and popularization of this In my opinion, County employees are those who should ac-
custom (gathering documentation, travelling exhibition, tually be making the first steps in that direction, especially
famous publication and internet page, scientific research, by collaborating with local boards.
14

...komandant zazviždi za kraj kola i da

znak zvončarima da slijedi razlaz iz te
specifične formacije. Skidaju maske i goste
se svim onim što su im domaćini priredili,
a priređuju im prave gozbe od domaćih jela
i pića. Tad nastupaju muzikanti i jajari
koji ulaze u kuće i lupajući kuhačama u
dno zdjela traže od domaćina jaja.

...captain whistles to mark the end of the

round dance and to give a sign to bell
ringers to dismiss from this particular
formation. They take off their masks and
try everything their hosts have prepared for
them such as real banquets made of local
dishes and drinks. Then the musicians
begin an egg collectors’ performance that
sees them entering the houses and banging
ladles on the pots and pans – as a way of
asking their hosts to give them eggs.

blackened hands. The Bear was guided on a chain and whilst

he was dancing, the Thief entered people’s houses and stole
everything he could find. The home owners then had to buy
back the stolen things with food and drink.
Today’s Halubje Bell ringers no longer have a Thief and
their costume differs slightly from the old one. For exam-
ple, they replaced the strapped soft soled footwear with
high and heavy black shoes some time ago; several bells
have been changed with only one of 9 or 10 litres that they
tie around their waists with a cord. Their masks are bigger
and scarier than the old ones and every bellringer creates
his own mask and is only recognizable by the others thanks
to his personal mask. Masks weigh from between 8 to 12 kil-
ograms and are created in a way that includes pasting card-
board onto a steel construction, sewing sheep’s, wild boar’s
or cow's skin, putting in casted teeth and eyes made of skin
or sponge... Making this kind of mask requires real skill and
arduous and long lasting work.

Bells in Procession
Certain characteristic have never changed, no matter
whether they are from the western or eastern part of the
old Municipality of Kastav, and these are their traditional
processions. For example, the Halubje Bell ringers begin
their procession on the Sunday before the burning of the
Pust from the village of Marčelji, more precisely, from a
place where, in the past, the Pul Bačurkineh tavern was lo-
cated. They visit all the villages in the eastern part of the
Kastav area. The group is always preceded by musicians
and the bell ringers leader, the so called, captain. Accordi-
ons, drums, trumpets or clarinets are the instruments that
accompany the bell ringers, the devil circles around them
and dirties the people with black, the bear rushes forward
into the spectators, rolls over on the floor and performs
 15

Današnji Halubajski zvončari nemaju tata, a imaju i nešto a variety of exhibitions and the bell ringers do not stop
drugačiju odoru. Primjerice, opanke su već davno zamijenili ringing, from village to village, from hamlet to hamlet, all
visokim crnim teškim cipelama, više zvona jednim jedinim od around the Kastav area. The proverb “on every step the bell
9 ili 10 litara koje im je konopom privezano oko pasa. Maske su must be heard” means that bell ringers walk with a hard and
im veće i strašnije od nekadašnjih, a svaki je zvončar kreator wide step. They walk “cross like" so that some of them move
svoje maske i jedino ga po njoj ostali mogu i prepoznati. Maske towards the left and others towards the right and then they
su teške od 8 do 12 kilograma, a nastaju tako da se na čeličnu all gather together in the centre. They travel through the
konstrukciju lijepi karton, šije ovčja, veprova ili kravlja koža, woods and along the roads and in some parts of their travel,
stavljaju gipsani zubi, oči od kože ili spužve... Izraditi masku depending on the route which sometimes extends up to 20
iziskuje pravo umijeće, mukotrpan i dugotrajan rad. kilometres in one day, in places where spectators cannot
see them, they can take off their masks and wear them on
Zvona u ophodu their shoulders or carry them under their arms. They en-
Ono što se kod zvončara, neovisno dolazili oni sa zapadnog ter every village with their masks on and perform a special
ili istočnog dijela nekadašnjeg Kastavskog komuna nije mi- show, known as the bell ringers round dance, for the com-
jenjalo jesu njihovi tradicionalni ophodi. Primjerice, Halu- mon people gathered there. A circle is made by the bell ring-
bajski zvončari u ophod kreću na Pusnu nedeju iz Marčeji, ers walking around and with every step they get closer to
točnije s mjesta na kojem se nekad nalazila gostionica »Pul each other; at first they ring their bells as powerfully as they
Bačurkineh«. Obahajaju (obilaze) sva sela istočne Kastav- can, and as they get closer, the ringing calms down and in
štine. Na čelu kolone su uvijek muzikanti i vođa zvončara the end stops. Then the captain whistles to mark the end of
tzv. komandant. Harmonika, bubanj, truba ili klarinet in- the round dance and to give a sign to bell ringers to dismiss
strumenti su koji prate zvončare, vrag kruži i crnilom crni from this particular formation. They take off their masks
ljude, medvjed se zalijeće u gledatelje, valja po podu i izvodi and try everything their hosts have prepared for them such
svekolike vratolomije, a zvončari zvone li ga zvone od sela as real banquets made of local dishes and drinks. Then the
do sela, od zaselka do zaselka, diljem Kastavštine. Uzrečica musicians begin an egg collectors’ performance that sees
koja glasi »na svaki korak zvono se mora čut« znači da zvon- them entering the houses and banging ladles on the pots
čari hodaju teškim i širokim korakom. Hodaju »ukriž« tako and pans – as a way of asking their hosts to give them eggs.
da jedni idu lijevo, drugi desno da bi se potom našli u sredi- The eggs that are collected are then used for the final big
ni. Putuju šumom i drumom, a na dijelovima puta na koji- party altogether where the main delicacy is an omelette
ma nema gledatelja a koji se ovisno o ruti znaju protegnuti made of those eggs collected during the procession.
 16

i do 20 kilometara u jednom danu, smiju skinuti masku i Life with a Bell

nositi ju na ramenu ili pod rukom. U svako selo ulaze zama- It is not easy to tell a story about the steps and the bell ring-
skirani, a okupljenom puku upriliče i posebnu točku zna- ers’ round dance, this simply has to be seen and experienced.
nu kao zvončarsko kolo. Tvori se tako da zvončari hodaju u Feel every sound of the bell. Only then can you become ac-
krug koji se svakim korakom sve više zbija, najprije zvone quainted with the entire image of the strength, community
najjače što mogu, a kako se zbijaju zvonjava jenjava, da bi and true bond it has with the area and its customs.
pri zgotovljenju kola sve utihnulo. Tada komandant zazviž-
di za kraj kola i kao znak zvončarima da slijedi razlaz iz te The Halubje Bell ringers end their three day procession on
specifične formacije. Skidaju maske i goste se svim onim the Tuesday before the burning of the Pust, or at the end
što su im domaćini priredili, a priređuju im prave gozbe od of the carnival period. Then they burn a straw villain in
domaćih jela i pića. Tad nastupaju muzikanti i jajari koji the centre who is blamed for any bad things that have hap-
ulaze u kuće i lupajući kuhačama u dno zdjela traže od do- pened. The bell ringers’ bells become still at midnight and
maćina jaja. Prikupljena jaja iskoristit će na kraju za veliku their silence announces Ash Wednesday and the start of
zajedničku feštu na kojoj je glavna poslastica upravo fritaja Lent. Everything in the village of Rukavac stands still until
(omlet) načinjena od na ophodima prikupljenih jaja. the next feast of St. Anthony and their bell ringers do not
come out onto the street and do not visit other carnivals
and bell ringers’ parades either in Croatia or abroad. Other
bell ringer groups often answer the various tourist events
so as to spread consciousness about the bell ringers’ tradi-
tions and promoting the culture and customs of their area
around the world.
As long as there are bells, there will be bell ringers as well
as bell ringers processions, although not everyone can be-
come a bell ringer. It is above all a great honour that asks
for remarkable strength, will and renunciation and in some
bell ringers groups it means your origins too. The tradition
is passed down from generation to generation so that in
some bell ringers processions, several generations might
 17

Život sa zvonom Halubajski zvončari trodnevni ophod

Teško je prepričati i korak i kolo zvončara, to se jednostav- završavaju na Pusni utorak ili Mesopust.
no mora vidjeti i doživjeti. Osjetiti svaki zvon. Tek onda se Tad u centru mjesta pale slamnatoga
može steći kompletna slika snage, zajedništva i iskonske ve- krivca za sve nedaće. U pol noći utihnu
zanosti uz kraj i njegove običaje. zvončarska zvona, a njihova tišina
Halubajski zvončari trodnevni ophod završavaju na Pusni nagovještava Čistu srijedu i početak
utorak ili Mesopust. Tad u centru mjesta pale slamnatoga korizme.
krivca za sve nedaće. U pol noći utihnu zvončarska zvona, a
njihova tišina nagovještava Čistu srijedu i početak korizme. The Halubje Bell ringers end their three
Do iduće Antonje sve miruje u Rukavcu jer njihovi zvončari day procession on the Tuesday before
ne izlaze »na asfalt« i ne posjećuju ostale karnevale i zvon- the burning of the Pust, or at the end of
čarske smotre u zemlji i inozemstvu. Ostale zvončarske the carnival period. Then they burn
skupine često se odazivaju raznoraznim turističkim mani-
a straw villain in the centre who is blamed
festacijama šireći tako svijetom svijest o zvončarskoj tradi-
for any bad things that have happened.
ciji, te promičući kulturu i običaje svog kraja.
The bell ringers’ bells become still at
Dok je zvonaca bit će i zvončara i zvončarskih ophoda, iako midnight and their silence announces
zvončar ne može biti svatko. To je prije svega velika čast, izi-
Ash Wednesday and the start of Lent.
skuje veliku snagu, volju i odricanje, a u nekim zvončarskim
skupinama podrazumijeva i korijene. Tradicija se prenosi s be ringing together walking through the same forests, down
koljena na koljeno, pa je u onim spominjanim zvončarskim the same roads and paths, meadows and lawns. The same
ophodima zvonilo i po nekoliko generacija, šećući istim šu- families have been welcoming them for generations and
mama, istim putevima i stazicama, livadama i proplancima. the same songs have been sung and played, and the same
Iste su ih obitelji generacijama dočekivale, iste su se pje- dishes and beverages have been eaten and drunk. Being a
sme pjevale i svirale, s istim jelima i pićima su se gostili. Biti bell ringer is all about your point of view, lifestyle and love
zvončar ili dondolaš stvar je svjetonazora, stila života i lju- for your homeland. So finally let's ring out their proverb –
bavi prema zavičaju. Stoga za kraj zazvonit ćemo njihovom krepat ma ne molat (die but don’t let go). They have been
uzrečicom – krepat ma ne molat. Oni tako već stoljećima. doing it for centuries.

U čast zvončarima, Primorsko-goranska

županija objavila je kalendar sa jedinstvenim
fotografijama zvončarskih ophoda.
In the honour of Bell Ringers, the County
of Primorje and Gorski kotar published a
calendar with their unique photographs.
18
Intervju / Interview Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža Fotografije / Photos: Davor Žunić

Rade
Šerbedžija
 19

Šešir je njegov zaštitni znak, a Peer Gynt, Don Juan, The Hat is his symbol and Peer Gynt, Don Juan, Georgij,
Georgij, Melkior, Edip, Hamlet, Leon, Richard III... Melchior, Edip, Hamlet, Leon, Richard III...his unrepeat-
neponovljiva glumačka ostvarenja. Napisao je i obja- able acting accomplishments. He has written and pub-
vio četiri knjige poezije i četiri nosača zvuka, te po- lished four poetry books and four albums as well as nu-
stavio brojne autorske režije. Ako navedemo da je s merous author directions. If we mention that he has just
Angelinom Jolie upravo dovršio snimanje filma, te finished filming a movie with Angelina Jolie and that he is
da je dobitnik brojnih vrhunskih nagrada i prizna- a winner of numerous top prizes and acknowledgments,
nja, onda će biti jasno da je naš sugovornik kazališni, and then it will be clear that our interlocutor is theatre,
filmski i televizijski glumac Rade Šerbedžija. Pozna- film and TV actor Rade Šerbedžija. It is well-known that
to je kako je sa Vanessom Redgrave pokrenuo teatar he began running a theatre with Vanessa Redgrave where
u kojemu uprizoruju Brecht in egzile, Liberation of they hosted Brecht whilst in exile, the Liberation of Skop-
Skopje, Smoke... Nakon svjetskoga uspjeha „Prije je, Smoke… After the world acclaimed success of “Before
kiše“ angažiraju ga P. Noyce, J. Woo, S. Kubrick, F. the Rain” he has worked alongside P. Noyce, J. Woo, S.
Rossi (La Trequa) i drugi. Glumio je s Valom Kilme- Kubrick, F. Rossi (The Truce - La Tregua) and others. He
rom, Elizabeth Shue, Johnom Turturrom, Tomom has acted with Val Kilmer, Elizabeth Shue, John Turtur-
Cruiseom i drugima. Sa suprugom Lenkom i djecom ro, Tom Cruise, etc. With his wife Lenka and his children
Danilom, Lucijom, Ninom, Vanjom i Milicom živio Danilo, Lucija, Nina, Vanja and Milica he initially lived in
je prvo u Londonu, a potom u Americi. Sredinom London and then in America. In the middle of this year
ove godine Šerbedžija je s obitelji doselio u Rijeku, a Šerbedžija moved to Rijeka with his family and the main
glavni razlog je pokretanje poslijediplomskog speci- reason for this was the start of a post-graduate, special-
jalističkog studija „Gluma, mediji, kultura“ pri riječ- ized studies course "Acting, media, culture" at the Rijeka
kom Sveučilištu u ožujku iduće godine. University in March next year.

- G. Šerbedžija, mnogi u Hrvatskoj priželjkuju život u - Mr Šerbedžija, many people in Croatia would like to live in
Americi, a Vi se ste iz Amerike preselili u Rijeku. Što je America and you have moved from America to Rijeka. What
presudilo takvoj odluci? was the crucial reason for making that decision?
Prijedlog rektora Sveučilišta u Rijeci, prof. Pere Lučina da The proposal made by the University of Rijeka’s principal,
ovdje pokrenemo studij „Gluma, mediji, kultura“. No, mo- prof. Pero Lučin to start a course of “Acting, media, culture”.
ram priznati da supruga Lenka i ja već godina priželjkujemo Although I have to confess that my wife Lenka and I have
povratak u Hrvatsku iz mnogo razloga. Glavni razlog je što wanted to return to Croatia for a number of reasons. The main
smo željeli našu djecu približiti korijenima našeg naroda i reason is that we wanted to make the roots of our nation closer
kako bi više sličile Europljankama, nego Amerikankama. to our children and we wanted them to look more like Europe-
ans than like Americans.
- Amerika Vas očito nije oduševila?
Amerika je puna paradoksa, protuslovlja. Nudi fantastične - Apparently America did not thrill you?
mogućnosti, ali tamo ipak prevladava okrutni kapitalizam. America is full of paradoxes, contradictions. It offers fantastic
Ja sam kozmopolit razvijenog osjećaja za socijalnu pravdu. possibilities, but nevertheless a cruel capitalism prevails there.
Socijalistički sam odgojen i mislim da bi ljudi u tom svijetu I am a cosmopolitan with a developed feeling for social justice.
trebali biti jednakiji. Osim toga, Lenka i ja smo se već umo- I’ve been raised in socialistic way and in my opinion; people
rili. Nedostaje nam više odmora, ležernosti i naša zemlja. in that world should be more equal. Besides that, Lenka and I
Filmsku karijeru mogu nastaviti i iz Rijeke i putovati bilo were a bit tired. We missed having more relaxation, casualness
gdje, kao što to i sada činim. and we missed our home country. I can continue my film car-
rier even from Rijeka and travel anywhere, as I am doing now.
- U razgovoru koji smo prije nekoliko godina vodili na Bri-
junima rekli ste mi da „kada novi ljudi dolaze sa svojim en- - In the conversation we had a few days ago on Brijuni, you
ergijama, odjednom rijeka dobiva drugi tok“. Znači li to da said that “when new people come with their energies, the
će i Rijeka s Vama u njoj pokazati dosad neviđeno lice? river suddenly takes on another flow”. Does that mean that
Ne želim ništa obećavati. Umoran sam od obećavanja, veli- Rijeka, now you are here, will now show a face that has nev-
kih riječi i projekata. No, nemam nikakvih ambicija raditi u er been seen before?
 20

riječkom teatru, jer me teatar u tom smislu više ne zanima. I don't want to promise anything. I am tired of promising, big
To trebaju raditi mladi ljudi. Želja mi je da u Rijeci sa supru- words and projects. But I don’t have any ambitions to work in
gom, a u dogovoru s gradonačelnikom Vojkom Obersnelom, Rijeka’s theatre as I am not interested in theatre in that sense
pronađem prostor za eksperimentalni međunarodni teatar any more. This should be done by young people. My wish is to
za manje predstave, s manje ljudi, a koji bi bio povezan s na- find, together with my wife and in accordance with Mayor Vo-
šim radom na novom studiju. jko Obersnel, a location for experimental international theatre
for smaller shows, with less people which would be connected
- Jedna od specifičnosti ovoga studija svakako je i to da to our work on the new course.
ćete glumce osim na hrvatskom poučavati i na engleskom
jeziku? - One of the particularities of this course is definitely the
Još je otvorena mogućnost i za nastavu na talijanskom jezi- fact that you will be teaching actors both in Croatian and
ku. Koristeći metodu mog 101-godišnjeg prijatelja Arthura in English?
Lessaca, pomoći ćemo mladim ljudima da unutar dvije go- The possibility of teaching in the Italian language is still open.
dine izgube naglasak i ravnopravno konkuriraju za ulogu u Using the method of my 101 year-old friend Arthur Lessac,
Americi, Engleskoj i drugdje. To je značajno za budućnost we will help young people to loose their accent within two
ovog studija, jer u Hrvatskoj ima puno glumaca, a malo tea- years and equally compete for roles in America, England and
tara. Ljude ćemo educirati da osim glumačkog posla, steknu elsewhere. This is important for the future of this study as in
znanja i vještine za obavljanje nekih drugih unutar izvedbe- Croatia there are a great many actors and a small number of
nih umjetnosti; u kazalištu, na televiziji,... theatres. We will educate people to acquire, besides acting
work, knowledge and skills for undertaking jobs within the ex-
- Očekuje se kako ćete privući i brojne ugledne vanjske ecutable arts; in theatre and on television…
suradnike iz zemlje i inozemstva slavne prijatelje iz film-
skog svijeta. Spomenuli ste mi rektora edinburške aka- - It is expected that you will attract numerous respectable
demije Nigela Osbornea. Koga nam još možete najaviti? external collaborators from Croatia and from abroad; fa-
Arthura Leesaca i njegove suradnike, Vanessu Redgrave, mous friends from the film industry. You mentioned the
Johna Turturra. Susret mladih glumaca sa velikim svjet- principal of the Edinburgh academy, Nigel Osborne… Who
skim glumcima i redateljima nevjerojatno pokreće. Vrlo če- else can you reveal?
sto u samo nekoliko sati pravog rada i prenošenja iskustava Arthur Lessac and his collaborators, Vanessa Redgrave and
možete naučiti više nego inače u godinu dana. Studij će sva- John Turturro. The meeting of young actors with great world
kako biti ono što predstavljamo moja supruga Lenka koja je actors and directors motivates in an incredible way. Very often
režirala u najvećim kazalištima svijeta i ja. in just a few hours of real work and transferring experience,
you can learn more than you normally would in a year. The
- Posebnu pažnju posvetit ćete metodi Arthura Les- course will certainly be what I represent as well as what my
saca, Vašeg velikog prijatelja i jednog od najpoznatijih wife Lenka, who was director in some of the biggest theatres in
američkih stručnjaka i profesora scenskoga govora koji the world, represents too.
je nedavno navršio 101 godinu?
Teško je to objasniti u jednome intervjuu. Ta metoda podra- - Special attention will be dedicated to the Arthur Les-
zumijeva povezanost s mnogim stvarima; sa studijem jezika sac method, your great friend and one of the most famous
kao jezika, učenjem engleskog jezika, praktičnim vježbama American experts and professors of scene speech who re-
govora, disanja, akcije tijela. Slična je metodi vrsne struč- cently celebrated his 101st birthday?
njakinje Cecile Berry koju sam prvi donio u Hrvatsku. It is hard to explain in one interview. This method implies the
connection of a number of things; with language studies as
- Koga smatrate talentiranim glumcem? well as language itself, learning the English language, using
To je teško reći. Imate talentiranih glumaca, a imate i izuzetnih. practical speech exercises, breathing, and body movements. It
is similar to the method used by the expert, Cecile Berry, which
I first introduced to Croatia.
- Kako ih prepoznajete?
Talentirane glumce osjeti publika; možda čak i više nego
- In your opinion, who do you consider to be a talented
ljudi koji se bave teatrom. Talent se nameće i prepoznaje,
actor?
ali je rijedak. Ima ih i u Hrvatskoj, iako moram priznati da
mlade glumce ovdje nisam puno gledao. Osobno bih jako This is difficult question. There are talented actors and there
volio raditi neku tešku ulogu s Vilijem Matulom koji mi se are extraordinary actors.
strašno sviđa, baš kao i Mokrović, Cvetković, Križan. Drago
mi je da u Hrvatskoj ima tako sposobnih glumaca. - How do you recognize them?
Talented actors are felt by the public; maybe even more then
- Smatrate da je sve u umjetnosti zapravo upitno, često people who are occupied with theatre. Talent is imposed and
povezano sa srećom i slučajem, nepredvidivo? recognized, but it’s rare. There are talents in Croatia but I must
 21

Umjetnost ništa ne jamči. Na početku nekog projekta ne admit I haven’t been watching young actors here a lot. I would
možeš biti siguran da ćeš uspjeti. Često se događalo da naja- personally like to play a lot difficult roles with Vili Matula who
vimo „glumačku reprezentaciju“, a u konačnici zakaže cijeli I like very much, as well as with Mokrović, Cvetković, Križan. I
projekt. Ponekad pak nema nikakvih jamstava, a napravi se am glad that Croatia has so many competent actors.
briljantna predstava. Uistinu mislim da pritom sreća igra
vrlo veliku ulogu. Poznajem mnoge sjajne glumce i s naših - Do you think that everything in art is really questionable, of-
prostora koji su se na neki način na kraju i umorili od če- ten connected with pure luck, fate and is unpredictable?
kanja tog trenutka, a jednostavno se nije dogodio. Tako je Art does not guarantee anything. At the beginning of certain
često i u životu- imaš sve, a jednostavno se ne posloži da u projects you cannot be sure of success. It has often happened
pravom trenutku budeš na pravom mjestu. that we announce an “actors' representation” and in the end the
whole project does not function. On the other hand, sometimes
- No, život u Americi i holivudsku karijeru preseljenjem there are no guarantees and the show turns out brilliantly. I re-
u Rijeku niste stavili u drugi plan. U Americi je ostala ally think that life plays a big, big role. I know many great actors,
Nina koja tamo studira. even from our area, who in some way got tired in the end of wait-
I u LA-u sam znao sjediti kao sada u Rijeci, igrati tenis, a ing for that moment which simply didn’t happen. Even in real
onda primiti poziv agenta s ponudom za snimanje filma, life, it is often a similar problem – you have everything, and it
obično u nekoj drugoj zemlji. Preselio sam se u Hrvatsku, a simply does not happen that you find yourself in the right place
istodobno radio tri filma. Snimanje filma sa Angelinom Jo- at the right time.
lie završeno je 15. studenoga, radio sam i u Londonu a radim
i sada jer je snimanje talijanskog filma u kojemu igram glav- - But, you haven't put your life in America and your Holly-
nu ulogu počelo 12. studenoga. Da sam sada u LA-u, zbog wood career into second place. Nina has stayed in America
svih ovih obveza morao bi biti u Europi. Bio bih užasno ner- as she studies there.
vozan i nezadovoljan, jer sam daleko od obitelji. Even when I was in LA I was used to sit as I do in Rijeka now, I
played tennis and then my agent would call me with an offer of a
- Što nam možete reći o filmu s Angelinom Jolie? film shoot, usually in some other country. I moved to Croatia and
Scenarij je temeljen na istinitoj priči i sjajan je. To je lju- at the same time was working on three films. Shooting with An-
bavna priča o mladom Srbinu i Muslimanki koji su se za- gelina Jolie terminated on 15th November, I worked in London
gledali jedno u drugo nekoliko večeri prije početka rata u and still do, and filming the Italian film, in which I play a leading
Bosni. Tako počinje film, a onda slijedi suludi rat. Radnja role, began on 12th November. If I were in LA now, I would have
 22

prati ratna zbivanja u kojima ta mala Muslimanka završava to come to Europe for all these commitments. I was very nerv-
u srpskome logoru, a mladić je na neki način spašava. Među ous and unsatisfied as I was far away from my family.
njima se javlja strastvena, ali nemoguća ljubav.
- What can you say about the film with Angelina Jolie?
- Vaša druga najveća ljubav, u profesionalnom smislu, nakon The script is based on a true story and is great. It is a love story
glume, je pjevanje. Nakon velikog uspjeha albuma „Imam about a young Serb and a Muslim woman who started to have
pjesmu za tebe”, radite na novom albumu i to ponovno sa feelings for each other a few nights before the war began in Bos-
svjetski poznatim gitaristom Miroslavom Tadićem. nia. That is how the film starts and then follows the insane war.
Novi album se zove po jednoj od pjesama „Ponekad dolazim, The plot follows war events in which this young Muslim woman
ponekad odlazim“. Među autorima pjesama su Miljenko Jer- ends up in a Serb camp, and the young man saves her in some way.
gović i moj novi prijatelj iz Rijeke, prof. Nikica Petković koji Between them a passionate though impossible love emerges.
će predavati na našem studiju. Ostale pjesme sam osobno na-
pisao, a Miroslav je doveo američki bend s kojim ću u Rijeci - Your second biggest love after acting, with regard to the
nastupiti u HKD-u na Sušaku, 26. prosinca ove godine. profession, is singing. After the great success of the album
„Imam pjesmu za tebe” (I have a song for you), you have
- Rođeni ste u Lici, a školovali ste se u Vinkovcima. Iz begun working on the new album and once again with the
toga grada potječu brojna velika hrvatska imena poput world famous guitar player, Miroslav Tadić.
Ivana i Josipa Kozarca, Josipa Runjanina, Vanje Dracha, The new album got its name from one of the songs from the album
Fabijana Šovagovića... Što je tako poticajno u Slavoniji? called “I sometimes arrive and sometimes leave”. Amongst the
Svaki hrvatski kraj dao je nekog velikana, no činjenica je da song authors are Miljenko Jergović and my new friend from Rije-
u Slavoniji zaista ima nešto posebno. Neka temeljitost. To ka, professor Nikica Petković who will be teaching on our course.
je vjerojatno zbog mentaliteta. Tamo nema planina. Sam si Other songs have been written by me, and Miroslav brought an
pod suncem koje te grije i udara ti u tjeme. Nabiješ šešir od American band with whom I will perform in Rijeka on 26th De-
rane mladosti i onda ti ostane na glavi i zaboraviš da ga imaš cember 2010 at the Croatian Cultural Centre on Sušak.
kao što se meni dogodilo u 16-oj godini. Život u Slavoniji je
jako težak. Tu je čovjek već od mladosti upućeniji na sebe. - You were born in Lika, and attended school in Vinkovci. Nu-
To je možda i razlog zašto su iz tog kraja ljudi temeljitiji, kao merous famous Croatian names such as Ivan and Josip Ko-
„teška kategorija“. zarac, Josip Runjanin, Vanje Drach, Fabijan Šovagović have
come from Vinkovci… What is so motivating in Slavonija?
Every part of Croatia has produced great men, but the fact that
there is something special in Slavonija is true. There is a kind
of solidness. This is probably because of the mentality there.
There are no mountains. You are on your own under the sun
that heats you and bumps in the top of your head. You put your
hat on when you are still young and it remains on your head
until you forget you are wearing it as happened to me when
I was 16 years old. Life in Slavonija is really hard. The people
here are more aware of themselves even at a young age. This
is maybe a reason why people from that area are so solid, like a
"high weight category".

- Do you have many hats?

Yes. I wear them, lose them, people steal them from me. Re-
cently I bought one that I had been looking for for a long time
– a grey Borsalino that looks like the one Krleža gave me as
a present. I don’t perform in Krleža’s hat because I think he
wouldn’t like seeing me sing with a hat on. But when I speak
and think, then I wear it, yes. It inspires me.

- Your family surely suffers for your commitments around

the world. How much are you bothered by this distance?
It happened that I became a foreigner in my own country. This
excludes any kind of political connotations. I left, by chance,
and suddenly started taking the customs and mentality of oth-
er nations, even if I wasn't a part of that nation either. I have
become a foreigner again.
 23

U Rijeci mi se sviđa što me nitko ništa ne

pita, nema podozrivosti i promatranja.
U ovom i podneblju Istre drugačije se
živi nego u ostatku Hrvatske.

I like that nobody asks me anything,

there is neither suspiciousness nor do
I have people watching me. In this area
and in Istria, people live different lives
compared to the rest of Croatia.

- Imate li puno šešira?

Imam. Nosim ih, gubim ih, kradu mi ih. Sad sam nedavno ku-
pio jedan koji sam dugo tražio - sivi Borsalino koji samo liči
na Krležin koji mi je poklonio. U Krležinom šeširu ne nastu-
pam, jer mislim da on ne bi bio zadovoljan da pjevam u šeši-
ru. Ali da govorim, mislim, nosim ga - to da. Inspirira me.

- Vaša obitelj zasigurno trpi zbog angažmana po cijelome

svijetu. U kojoj Vas mjeri opterećuje ta udaljenost?
Meni se dogodilo da sam postao stranac u vlastitoj zemlji.
To isključuje bilo kakve političke konotacije. Otišao sam
igrom slučaja i odjednom počeo preuzimati navike i menta-
litet drugoga naroda, iako ni tamo nikad nisi dio tog naroda.
Opet sam stranac.
- Does that mean that you sometimes feel like you don't be-
- Znači li to da se ponekad osjećate kao da nikamo ne long anywhere?
pripadate? Yes, but this is not a sad feeling. I didn’t go into the world for po-
Da, ali to nije turoban osjećaj. Ja u svijet nisam otišao iz po- litical reasons, but with my own will. In it I have found a special,
litičkih razloga, već svojevoljno. U tome sam pronašao po- unlimited kind of freedom; as if I were flying in a plane at a height
sebnu, neograničenu vrstu slobode; kao avionom umjesto of 16,000 km instead of 11,000 km. This aerospace has opened up
na 11.000 km nadmorske visine letiš na 16.000 km. Taj zračni a number of different views for everything – I have that wideness.
prostor otvorio mi je drugačiji pogled na sve - imam širinu. From that this positive feeling emerges over nationality. I really
Iz toga proizlazi pozitivan osjećaj nadnacionalnosti. Ja zaista like and respect the Croatian tradition and nationality as well as
volim i poštujem hrvatsku tradiciju i nacionalnost i osjećaj our people's feelings for their past, art and language, but I have this
ljudi koji imaju za povijest, umjetnost i svoj jezik, ali ja isti same relationship with any other nation. I like to live that way.
takav odnos imam prema bilo kojem drugom narodu. Volim
tako živjeti. - You said that you consider Rijeka, within the Croatian bor-
ders, the most desirable city to live in?
- Rekli ste mi da Rijeku, u hrvatskim okvirima smatrate I like that nobody asks me anything, there is neither suspi-
najpoželjnijim gradom za život? ciousness nor do I have people watching me. In this area and
Sviđa mi se što me nitko ništa ne pita, nema podozrivosti in Istria, people live different lives compared to the rest of
i promatranja. U ovom i podneblju Istre drugačije se živi Croatia. It is not only because of the population structure, but
nego u ostatku Hrvatske. To nije samo zbog sastava stanov- because of the hundreds of years of people living on these areas
ništva, već i zbog stoljetnog života ljudi na ovim prostorima that have passed through the hands of Italy, Austria and other
koji su prošli kroz Italiju, Austriju i druge strane utjecaje i iz foreign influences and have drawn the best from all of them.
svega izvukli ono najbolje.
- When I once asked you who your moral ideal was, you an-
- Kad sam Vas jednom pitala tko je Vaš moralni uzor, odgo- swered that it was your friends. Is the answer still the same?
vorili ste mi da su to Vaši prijatelji. Još uvijek je tako? I think that way even today. I have many friends, famous and
Iza toga stojim i danas. Imam puno prijatelja, poznatih i not and I have been learning from all of them my whole life.
nepoznatih, a od svih njih učim cijeli život. U prijateljstvu Man can learn the most from friendship as he opens up and
čovjek najviše uči, jer se otvori i povjeri drugome. confides in another person.
24
Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Slavica Mrkić Modrić Fotografije / Photos: TZ Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board

Rijeka stoljećima
živi Karneval

Rijeka has been

living the Carnival
for centuries

Maska skrojena
prema gradu,

skrojen
grad
prema maski
A mask tailored to the shape of the city,
a city tailored to the shape of the mask
 25

Riječki je Karneval bez sumnje riječka prepoznatljivost,

brend, specifičnost. Svoju priču ispisuje stoljećima, svoju
drugačijost njeguje stoljećima, svoju tradiciju nikada ne za-
nemaruje, a ipak se mijenja u skladu s vremenom u kojem
živi. Ono što se nikad ne mijenja je osjećaj sreće i ponosa
kad Primorac stavi masku tamo gdje joj je mjesto. Najprije
na sebe, a onda i na svoj grad. Svoju maškaranu Rijeku.
Rijeka je po mnogočemu specifičan grad u Hrvatskoj. Po
mnogočemu je poznata izvan granica Hrvatske, ali ono po
čemu je znaju diljem svijeta i što njezinoj specifičnosti pri-
donosi u najvećem postotku, jest Karneval. Karneval u Ri-
jeci nije samo jedan u nizu događanja. Rijeka živi karneval
i živi za karneval. Tomu je tako već dugi niz godina. Štoviše
– stoljeća. Ako znamo da se grad na Rječini pod imenom Ri-
jeka prvi put "upisuje" u knjige u 12. stoljeću, a njegov kar-
neval u 15. onda nije teško zaključiti kako je masku, u za to
predviđeno – pokladno vrijeme, grad stavio na sebe negdje
„u međuvremenu". Kad točno, nepoznanica je, no ono što se
zna jest – kako je masku tada stavio, tako je do danas nosi,
prenoseći s koljena na koljeno, generacije na generaciju
tradiciju maskiranja i svega onog što ona podrazumijeva.

Maškarani genetski kod

Mijenjale su se države, vlasti, mijenjao se grad, ali tradici-
ja je ostala, pa u vrijeme Pusta ili Mesopusta, kako se to u
Hrvatskom Primorju kaže, Rijeka obuče karnevalsko ruho

The Rijeka Carnival is definitely what Rijeka is recognised

for, its brand and its particularity. It has been writing its
history for centuries, cherishing its diversity for centuries,
and has never ignored its tradition whilst at the same time
changing in accordance with the times in which it is hap-
pening. What has never changed is the feeling of happiness
and pride when someone from the Croatian Littoral puts
his mask where it belongs. First on himself, then on his city.
His masked Rijeka.
Rijeka is a very particular city in Croatia for a number
of things. It is also known for many things outside the
Croatian borders, but the Carnival is an event that is known
the world over and which contributes to the town’s particu-
larity the most. The Carnival in Rijeka is not the only event
during the carnival period. Rijeka lives the Carnival and for
the Carnival. This has happened for many years. For centu-
ries - even. If we know that the city on the Rječina known as
Rijeka was "registered" for the first time in the 12th century,
and its Carnival in the 15th century, then it is not difficult
to conclude that the city has put its mask on in the carni-
val period, and sometime "in between". When exactly is
unknown, but what is known is the way it puts its mask on
still today, transferring from generation to generation the
tradition of masking and all that it entails.

Masked genetic code

States, governments and the city have changed but the
tradition has remained, so that Rijeka in the period of
the Pust or the Mesopust, as it is called in the Croatian
 26

Odgovoriti na pitanje u čemu je specifičnost Littoral, wears the carnival costume and dances and sings
riječkoga Karnevala znači reći – u slojevitosti in it, competing in sports and parading until Ash-Wednes-
nasljeđa i genetskome kodu, što u prijevodu znači day. By answering the question regarding the particularity
da su riječki karnevalski dani oni dani koji u of Rijeka Carnival we discover that it is the stratification
sebi sadrže točno dozirane sastojke autohtonosti of its heritage and genetic code which means that those
i mnogih utjecaja kojima su Rijeka i njezino Rijeka Carnival days are those days that include just the
stanovništvo tijekom stoljeća bili podvrgnuti. right ingredients of autochthonism and a number of out-
side influences to which Rijeka and its inhabitants have
By answering the question regarding the been subjected to. And as Rijeka always takes what it likes,
particularity of Rijeka Carnival we discover that it and gives everything back, over this period of seven centu-
is the stratification of its heritage and genetic code ries, it has connected the characteristics of European city
which means that those Rijeka Carnival days are carnivals, Mediterranean masked traditions perfectly and
those days that include just the right ingredients of has added elements of Slavic folklore and genetic predis-
autochthonism and a number of outside influences position for life under a mask and in this way has created
to which Rijeka and its inhabitants have been its own Carnival identity. One that is different from the
subjected to. others. And for this reason recognizable. Its recognisabil-
ity has been created from year to year and we can read how
it was brought together in a book about the history of the
Rijeka Carnival written by Saša Dmitović.
As without the past there is no present and no future, we
will go back to the masked Rijeka as it once was, put the old
Rijeka mask on and say that although masked balls have
been held throughout the entire carnival period, and this
period has always being connected to two holidays – that of
the Three Kings and St. Anthony’s Day - the Carnival party
in Rijeka has always experimented its culmination on the
 27

i u njemu pleše, pjeva, sportski se nadmeće i paradira sve last three days before Ash-Wednesday. In ancient times, up
do Pepelnice ili Čiste srijede. Odgovoriti na pitanje u čemu until the 18th century, when Rijeka was still surrounded by
je specifičnost riječkog karnevala znači reći – u slojevitosti its walls, and today's Riva was still under the sea, the Car-
nasljeđa i genetskome kodu, što u prijevodu znači da su ri- nival took place on the streets of the old part of the city.
ječki karnevalski dani oni dani koji u sebi sadrže točno dozi- Everyone took part in the party and there were no specta-
rane sastojke autohtonosti i mnogih utjecaja kojima su Ri- tors. People sang and threw flour, sweets, eggs, oranges and
jeka i njezino stanovništvo tijekom stoljeća bili podvrgnuti. apples at each other. Real masked street fights happened.
A kako Rijeka uvijek uzima ono što joj se sviđa, a daje sve, Masked dances for the common people were organized sep-
kroz taj sedmostoljetni period fantastično je spojila karak- arately from the masked balls for noblemen and women.
teristike europskih građanskih karnevala, mediteranske In Rijeka’s ancient Castle the most luxurious "noble ball”
maškarane tradicije, dodala elemente slavenskoga folklora took place – the ball of the imperial captain. Masked dances
i genetsku predispoziciju za život pod maskom, pa stvorila were a favourite both amongst youngsters and adults too as
svoj karneval. Drugačiji od drugih. Samim tim i prepoznat- they were a perfect opportunity for meeting boys and girls
ljiv. Njegova se prepoznatljivost gradila iz godine u godinu, who were able to dance under the family's surveillance and
a kako se slagala možemo iščitati iz knjige o povijesti riječ- many of whom ended up with a marriage and their parents'
kog karnevala, autora Saše Dmitovića. satisfaction. Moreover, to date nothing of importance has
changed, only that the Carnival has moved from the old
Kako bez prošlosti nema niti sadašnjosti, ni budućnosti
part of the city – Stari grad - to Rijeka's main promenade.
vratit ćemo se u nekadašnju maškaranu Rijeku i staviti
There are no street fights anymore and love has continued
ondašnju riječku masku pa reći – mada su se maskirani ba-
to remain even today being the main originator of the mask
lovi priređivali tijekom čitavog pusnog razdoblja, a ono se
in Rijeka.
oduvijek veže uz dva blagdana – Sv. Tri Kralja i Sv. Antona
– karnevalsko je veselje u Rijeci svoju kulminaciju oduvi-
Tradition won over repression
jek doživljavalo posljednja tri dana prije Pepelnice ili Či-
ste srijede. Ono se u davna vremena, do 18. stoljeća, kada je Judging according to the many prohibitions and repres-
Rijeka još bila opasana zidinama, a današnja Riva bila pod sions to which the Rijeka Carnival has been exposed
morem, odvijalo na ulicama Staroga grada. U zabavi su svi throughout its history, it has not been easy to keep this
 28

Kako bez prošlosti nema niti sadašnjosti,

ni budućnosti vratit ćemo se u nekadašnju
maškaranu Rijeku i staviti ondašnju riječku
masku pa reći – mada su se maskirani balovi
priređivali tijekom čitavog pusnog razdoblja,
a ono se oduvijek veže uz dva blagdana
- Sv. Tri Kralja i Sv. Antona
As without the past there is no present and no
future, we will go back to the masked Rijeka as it
once was, put the old Rijeka mask on and say that
although masked balls have been held throughout
the entire carnival period, and this period
has always being connected to two holidays
– that of the Three Kings and St. Anthony’s Day

masked city’s atmosphere whilst preserving tradition. For

example, during the 15th century, anyone wearing a mask
could have been penalized with drastic sentences (50 li-
bras, the amputation of a hand or a month in prison). Many
priests also wore masks in Rijeka for a long time, in order
to enjoy the carnival parties together with common peo-
ple, incognito, until 1718 when finally, thanks to a bishop's
decree, masking, especially for priests, was proclaimed a
"devil's act”. But even this decree wasn’t able to stop the
masked tradition. Nor did the laws of the former state that
made life a living hell for carnival people. Made hell, but
did not stop it, as masked dances maybe did not take place
in the heart of the city, but Rijeka's surroundings breathed

sudjelovali, gledatelja nije bilo. Plesalo se i pjevalo, gađalo

brašnom, slatkišima, jajima, narančama i jabukama. Vo-
dile su se prave maškarane ulične bitke. Posebno su bili
organizirani plesovi pod maskama za građane, a posebno
maskirani balovi za gospodu. U nekadašnjem riječkome
Kaštelu priređivao se najraskošniji „noble bal" – bal kod
carskoga kapetana. Maskirani su plesovi bili vrlo omilje-
ni, kako među mladima, tako i među starijima, jer su bili
i idealna prilika za upoznavanje mladića i djevojaka koji
su mogli plesati pod nadzorom obitelji, a mnoga su takva
upoznavanja okrunjena brakom na zadovoljstvo rodite-
lja. Dakle, do današnjih dana ništa se bitno promijenilo
nije, samo se karneval iz Staroga grada preselio na glav-
nu riječku šetnicu, izostavljene su ulične bitke, a ljubav,
kako onda, tako i danas, ostaje osnovni pokretač maske u
Rijeci.

Tradicija pobijedila represiju

Sudeći po mnogim zabranama i represijama kojima su ri-
ječki karnevalisti kroz povijest bili izloženi, nije bilo lako
zadržati taj gradski maškarani štih i sačuvati tradiciju.
Primjerice, tijekom 15. stoljeća drastičnim kaznama (ka-
zna od 50 libara, odsijecanje ruke ili mjesec dana zatvora)
je mogla biti kažnjena svaka osoba koja je maskom prekri-
la lice. Dugo su se vremena u Rijeci maskirali i mnogi sve-
ćenici, uživajući zajedno s pukom u karnevalskom veselju,
dok napokon 1718. godine biskupskom uredbom maski-
ranje, posebno svećenika, nije proglašeno „đavolskim
 29

djelom". Ali ni ta uredba nije uspjela „stati na rep" maška- completely with the lungs of the carnival. It came to pass
ranoj tradiciji. Baš kao ni zakoni bivše države koji su karne- as always happens when repression starts a war with tra-
valistima zagorčavali život. Zagorčavali, ali ne i zaustavili, dition and traditions win, so that for almost the last three
jer možda se nekoliko desetljeća pod maskom nije plesalo decades, the carnival has returned to Rijeka. The door
u samom gradu, ali je zato okolica Rijeke disala karneval was, even at the beginning of 1960s, slightly open thanks
punim plućima. Dogodilo se ono što se uvijek dogodi kad to the Bell ringers from Brgud ringing on the Korzo and
represija zarati s tradicijom, a to je pobjeda tradicije, pa was half opened by the masked Carnival group Lako ćemo,
se posljednja gotovo tri desetljeća karneval vratio Rijeci. Pehlinarski feštari and the Halubje Bellringers and sub-
Vrata su još početkom šezedesetih godina otškrinuli Br- sequently the city Tourist Board made the final and most
gujski zvončari zazvonivši na Korzu, pa ih 1982. godine do important step and opened it completely to all carnival
polovice otvorili maškaroni iz Karnevalske grupe „Lako people not only from Rijeka and its surroundings but for
ćemo", Pehinarski feštari i Halubajski zvončari, a onda je people from around the world. As the years go by, more
gradska turistička zajednica poduzela završni i najvažni- and more masked groups, and spectators can be seen on
ji korak otvorivši ih širom svim karnevalistima ne samo the Korzo leading the Rijeka Carnival to be awarded mem-
Rijeke i riječkoga prstena, već i cijelog svijeta. Iz godine u bership to the FECC (Federation of European Carnival
godinu na Korzu je sve više maškaranih skupina, sve više Cities) in 1995, as well as the prestigious title of the third
gledatelja što je Riječkom karnevalu 1995. godine donijelo carnival in the world together with important critical ac-
članstvo u FECC-u (Uniji karnevalskih gradova Europe), claim in much of the world’s media.
prestižnu titulu trećeg karnevala na svijetu, kao i zapaže-
The Rijeka Carnival is definitely what Rijeka is recognised
ne kritike u mnogim svjetskim medijima.
for, its brand and its particularity. It has been writing its
Riječki je karneval definitivno riječka prepoznatljivost, history for centuries, cherishing its diversity for centuries,
brend, specifičnost. Svoju priču ispisuje stoljećima, svoju and has never ignored its tradition whilst at the same time
drugačijost njeguje stoljećima, svoju tradiciju nikad ne za- changing in accordance with the times in which it is hap-
nemaruje, a ipak se mijenja u skladu s vremenom u kojem pening. What never changes however, what has remained
živi. Ono što se nikad ne mijenja, što je bilo isto i u 13. i u the same from the 13th and the 21st century is the feeling of
21. stoljeću je onaj osjećaj sreće i ponosa kad Primorac stavi happiness and pride when someone from the Croatian Lit-
masku tamo gdje joj je mjesto. Najprije na sebe, a onda i na toral puts his mask where it belongs. First on himself, then
svoj grad. Svoju maškaranu Rijeku. on his city. His masked Rijeka.
 30
Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Ingrid Šestan Kučić Fotografije / Photos: Rino Gropuzzo

U sklopu Sveučilišta u Rijeci djeluje There is an unique institution working

Znanstveno-tehnologijski park as part of the University of Rijeka
- jedinstvena ustanova u Hrvatskoj – The Science and Technology Park

Sinergija
znanosti i poduzetništva
Synergy of science and entrepreneurship
Znanstveno-tehnologijski park Sveučilišta u Rijeci d.o.o. The Science and Technology Park of the University of Rije-
(STeP Ri) jedinstvena je ustanova u Hrvatskoj i široj regiji. ka d.o.o. (STeP Ri) is a unique institution in Croatia and the
Osnovana je prije dvije godine s ciljem poticanja sinergije wider region founded two years ago with the aim of stimu-
znanosti i poduzetništva na regionalnoj, nacionalnoj i me- lating the synergy of science and entrepreneurship on a
đunarodnoj razini. STeP Ri (Science and Technology Park of regional, national and international level. STeP Ri (Science
the University of Rijeka) smjestio se u središtu Sveučilišno- and Technology Park of the University of Rijeka) is located
ga kampusa, a osnovan je na inicijativu Sveučilišta u Rijeci in the centre of University Campus and was founded on the
koju su podržali Poslovno inovacijski centar Hrvatske – BI- initiative of the University of Rijeka which was supported
CRO, Grad Rijeka i Primorsko-goranska županija kao par- by the Business and Innovation Centre of Croatia – BICRO,
tneri. Njegova je misija stvoriti znanstveno-tehnologijsko i City of Rijeka and County of Primorje and Gorski kotar as
poslovno okruženje koje inspirira i potiče razvoj znanosti, partners. Its mission is to create a scientific, technological
inovativnosti, kreativnost i poduzetnički duh  pružanjem and business environment that inspires and stimulates the
odgovarajuće infrastrukture, stručnih servisa, savjetovanja development of science, innovation, creativity and entre-
i pristupa strateškoj mreži, dok su ciljevi STeP-a Ri inkuba- preneurial mindset by providing adequate infrastructure,
cija novonastalih tvrtki koje se temelje na znanju kao i za- expert services, consultation and access to the strategic
štita novonastaloga intelektualnog vlasništva. Taj se proces network, whilst the aims of the STeP Ri are the incubation
 31

skraćeno opisuje izrazom transfer tehnologija (TT), a odvi- of newly founded companies based on knowledge as well
jat će se između Sveučilišta i gospodarskog sektora. as the protection of newly founded intellectual ownership.
This process is briefly described by the term technology
Pojašnjavajući kako osnovne korake transfera tehnolo-
transfer (TT) which will be carried out between the Univer-
gije čine stvaranje i inkubacija novih tvrtki, razvoj novih
sity and the economic sector.
proizvoda, modela, prototipova, dakle općenito novih teh-
nologija, licenciranje novih tehnologija u postojeće regi- To explain how the main steps for technology transfer
onalne, nacionalne i međunarodne tvrtke, te povezivanje are the foundation and incubation of new companies, the
članova sveučilišne zajednice, poduzetnika i partnera na development of new products, models, prototypes, and
nacionalnoj i međunarodnoj razini, direktor STeP-a Ri therefore new technologies in general, licensing new tech-
Boris Golob navodi da će se ostvarenjem tih ciljeva male nologies into existing regional, national and international
i srednje tvrtke približiti istraživačkim kapacitetima i hi- companies and connecting members of the university com-
gh-tech laboratorijima na Sveučilištu, a znanstvenici će munity, entrepreneurs and partners on both a national and
istodobno steći bolji uvid u potrebe i probleme realnoga, international level, STeP Ri director, Boris Golob indicates
tržišno orijentiranog okruženja. Ono što ta ustanova nudi that by accomplishing these objectives, small and medium
svojim stanarima je inkubacija poduzetnika, zaštita i tran- companies will become closer to the research capacities
sfer intelektualnoga vlasništva, te licenciranje i komerci- and high-tech laboratories of the University, and scientists
jalizacija novonastaloga intelektualnog vlasništva. Uz ova will, at the same time, acquire a better view of the needs and
tri osnovna programa, stanarima poslovnog inkubatora problems of the real, market oriented environment. What
STeP-a Ri, znanstvenoj zajednici i postojećim poduzeći- this institution offers to its tenants is the incubation of en-
ma na tržištu bit će ponuđene i specifične usluge i znanja trepreneurs, protection and transfer of intellectual own-
vezana uz osmišljavanje novih proizvoda i usluga, una- ership and licensing and the commercialization of newly
pređivanje postojećih proizvoda te inoviranje postojećih founded intellectual ownership. Besides these three main
i stvaranje novih poslovnih modela. programs, tenants of the business incubator of STeP Ri, sci-
entific community together with existing companies on the
-Trenutno imamo petnaestak stanara koji se uglavnom na-
market, will be offered particular services and knowledge
laze u procesu predinkubacije. Ono što treba istaknuti je da
connected to the creation of new products and services, the
pravo poslovanje STeP-a u ovom trenutku tek može započe-
development of existing products and the innovation of ex-
ti. To podrazumijeva odrađivanje onoga zbog čega je STeP
isting and the creation of new business models.
osnovan, odnosno poslovno povezivanje i komercijalizaci-
ja znanstvenika. Namjera nam je da razvoj STeP-a krene u -At the moment we have around fifteen tenants who main-
dva smjera. Dakle, zadatak nije samo komercijalizirati ideje ly find themselves in the process of pre-incubation. What
koje dolaze sa Sveučilišta a znanje sa Sveučilišta plasirati na should be pointed out is that the real business activity of
tržište, već i privući tvrtke, prvenstveno tehnološke, koje STeP can only begin at this time. This includes the defini-
imaju potrebu za znanjima koja postoje i mogu se dobiti na tion of why STeP was founded, namely, the business con-
Sveučilištu, najavljuje Golob. nection and commercialization of scientists. The intention
is that STeP’s development moves in two directions. There-
Dodajući kako će cijeli projekt razvoja STeP-a trajati pet
fore, the task is not just to commercialize ideas deriving
godina, Golob navodi da povezivanje znanosti i tehnologije
from the University but to launch this knowledge on the
nije jedino čime se STeP bavi, jer dio svog rada ustanova je
market acquired at the University, but also to attract com-
usmjerila i na popularizaciju znanosti, ali i edukaciju. Na
panies, especially technological ones, that need to acquire
tragu toga je osnovan i edukacijski centar STeP-a Ri u ko-
existing knowledge and who can obtain it at the University,
jem se prezentiraju teme koje se smatra neophodnima za
announces Golob.
poboljšanje kvalitete provedbe svakodnevnih aktivnosti
kao i povećanja produktivnosti u malim i srednjim poduze- Adding that the entire development project of STeP will
ćima. Osim edukacijskih radionica redovito se održava i Sci last for five years, Golob says that connecting science and
Cafe kao i tribine “Čačkalica” čiji je smisao pokazati puteve technology is not STeP’s only activity as the institute has
koji mogu dovesti do uspjeha, potražiti nadahnuće kroz raz- directed part of its work to the popularization of science
govor te pokloniti dužnu pažnju i poštovanje ljudima koji u as well as to education. Based on that STeP Ri’s education
svojim životima čine nešto dobro za sebe i za svoju okolinu. centre was founded where all topics considered necessary
for raising the quality of carrying out everyday tasks and for
raising productivity in small and medium companies were
presented, and besides educational workshops, Sci Cafe and
"Čačkalica" tribunes take place on a regular basis and have
the purpose of showing the ways to success, by finding in-
spiration through discussion and dedicating the necessary
attention and respect to the people who, throughout their
lives, have done something of value both for themselves and
for the environment.
 32
Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Ljiljana Mamić Pandža Fotografije / Photos: Davor Žunić

Mala galerija
riječke obitelji
Bruketa
The Bruketa
Family from
Rijeka’s Mala
Galerija Gallery

Ambasador kulture
diljem svijeta
An Ambassador for culture throughout the world
 33

Mala galerija Bruketa, 37 godina smještena na trasi turističke The Mala galerija Bruketa gallery, which for 37 years has
magistrale u riječkoj starogradskoj jezgri, najstarija je privat- been located on the main tourist road in Rijeka’s old city
na galerija u Hrvatskoj. Originalna po svojoj ponudi, u većinu centre, is the oldest private gallery in Croatia. Original for
turističkih vodiča Europe, Amerike, Australije i Japana, ušla its offer, it has been included in most of the tourist guides
je s napomenom „preporučamo posjetiti“. Sadržaj njezina of Europe, America, Australia and Japan with the note “rec-
prostora na samo 20-ak četvornih metara, dokaz je latinske ommended”. The content of its space on just 20 square me-
izreke “Omnia praeclara rara“ (Sve lijepo je rijetko). Svojom tres is proof of the Latin proverb ‘Omnia praeclara rara’ (All
kontinuiranom djelatnošću proteklih godina doprinosila je the best things are rare). With its continuous activity over
prepoznavanju riječkoga identiteta ponudom vlastitih au- the years it has contributed to the recognition of Rijeka’s
tohtonih suvenira poput Morčića, Karoline Riječke, unikat- identity by offering its own autochthonous souvenirs such
ne umjetničke keramike i slika. Njena specifičnost upravo su as Morčić, Karolina Riječka, unique artistic ceramic objects
unikatni predmeti koji potječu iz kućne radinosti svih člano- and paintings. More specifically, it is the unique objects that
va obitelji; supružnika Vedrane, profesorice hrvatskog jezika originate from the home industry of all members of the fam-
i likovnog pedagoga Vladimira, te njihovih kćeri Vilene i Mo- ily; wife Vedrana, professor of the Croatian language and
rane. Odnedavna je u posao uključen i najmlađi član, unuk her husband Vladimir, an art pedagogue, as well as their
34

Filip, koji se za stvaralačkog procesa

provlači ateljeom, a ponegdje, sasvim
slučajno, ostavi i svoj neizbrisivi trag.
Talijanke i mnoge druge Europljan-
ke koje se uvijek iznova vraćaju u ovu
galeriju reći će da starija kći Morana
ima zlatne ruke za izradu jedinstve-
nog nakita, Vedrana za lampe, baš kao
i mlađa Vilena za izradu unikatnih
keramičkih satova kakvi se ne mogu
pronađi nigdje u svijetu, a čiji posve
neobičan izgled svakodnevno privla-
či poglede znatiželjnih prolaznika i
posjetitelja. Mala galerija nositelj je
brojnih priznanja za kreaciju i reali-
zaciju Riječkih suvenira, prepoznat-
ljivih brandova Morčića i Karoline Ri-
ječke, nastalih kao rezultat suradnje
sa Pomorskim muzejom grada i HNK
Ivana pl. Zajca. Značaj Male galerije
prepoznali su i Odjeli za kulturu Gra-
da Rijeke i Primorsko- goranske žu-
panije dodijelivši njezinim vlasnicima
priznanja "Izvorno Riječko" i "Izuzet-
na kvaliteta". Nazivi tih priznanja na
najbolji mogući način oslikavaju i ovu
umjetničku obitelj i galeriju u kojoj go-
tovo svaki predmet predstavlja način
života njezinih vlasnika optimističnog

daughters Vilena and Morana. Re-

cently even the youngest member has
been included in the business, their
grandchild Filip, who passes through
the atelier during the creation proc-
ess and completely accidentally,
leaves his indelible trace. The Italian
women as well as many other Euro-
pean women who always returned
to this gallery, will say that the older
daughter, Morana, has golden hands
which she uses to create this unique
jewellery, Whilst Vedrana uses hers
for the creation of lamps and the
youngest daughter, Vilena for the
creation of unique ceramic watches
that cannot be found anywhere else
in the world and whose completely
unusual appearance attracts the
views of curious passer-bys and visi-
tors every day. The Mala galerija Gal-
lery has been the winner of a number
of acknowledgments for the creation
and realization of Rijeka souvenirs,
with recognizable brands, Morčić and
Karolina Riječka being created as a
result of their collaboration with the
 35

Tajna gotovo četiri desetljeća opstojnosti Male Rijeka Maritime Museum and the “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian
galerije nedvojbeno je ljubav koju obitelj unosi National Theatre. Its importance has even been recognized
u posao, jer vole i rade ono što zaista žele i znaju, by the City of Rijeka and County of Primorje and Gorski ko-
a pozitivna energija se potom distribuira svakim tar Department for Culture which awarded its owners the
pojedinim predmetom i to cijelim svijetom. acknowledgment "Authentic from Rijeka" and “Excellent
The secret of the Mala galerija gallery’s almost Quality”. The names of these acknowledgements reflect this
four decades of existence is, without doubt, the artistic family in the best possible way and the gallery where
love that the family brings into the business as they almost every object represents its owners’ way of life and
enjoy and do what they really want and know and their optimistic and cheerful perspective. At the same time,
their positive energy is then distributed with each every object tells its own story, like Morčić for example,
individual object around the world. that visitors can get in around 20 world languages amongst
which are Chinese, Japanese, Lithuanian and Greek too.
i vedrog pogleda na život. Svaki predmet ujedno priča i svoju The secret of the Mala galerija gallery’s almost four decades
priču, poput Morčića, koju posjetitelji mogu dobiti na 20-ak of existence is, without doubt, the love that the family brings
svjetskih jezika, među kojima i kineski, japanski, litvanski i into the business as they enjoy and do what they really want
grčki. Tajna gotovo četiri desetljeća opstojnosti Male galerije and know and their positive energy is then distributed with
nedvojbeno je ljubav koju obitelj unosi u posao, jer vole i rade each individual object around the world. “We have been
ono što zaista žele i znaju, a pozitivna energija se potom dis- working unselfishly, we did not spare ourselves, we have re-
tribuira svakim pojedinim predmetom i to cijelim svijetom. searched and visited exhibitions around Croatia and around
"Nesebično smo radili, nismo se štedjeli, istraživali smo, obi- the world and have tried to offer the best for our visitors" -
lazi izložbe u zemlji i diljem svijeta, te posjetiteljima pokušali Vedrana tells us, reminding us that precisely in this work-
ponuditi najbolje"- kazala nam je Vedrana, podsjetivši da je shop, more than 20 years ago, the Morčić souvenir was cre-
upravo u njihovoj radionici prije više od 20 godina izrađen ated, which has been present in the goldsmith's craftwork
suvenir morčića koji je u zlatarskom zanatu na tom prostoru collection of that area for more than 200 years. If a brand is
prisutan više od 200 godina. Ako je brand nešto prepoznat- something recognizable and specific then the Mala galerija
ljivo i specifično, onda je i Mala galerija nedvojbeno, ne samo is, without doubt, not only Rijeka’s, but Croatia’s brand of
riječki već i hrvatski brand s kojim se uistinu možemo pono- excellence of which the Bruketa family can be really proud
siti, a obitelj Bruketa ambasadori kulture koji će Rijeci još and which is an ambassador for culture that will open the
više otvoriti vrata svijeta. doors of the world to Rijeka even more.
36
Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić Fotografije / Photos: Rino Gropuzzo

Knjižara je u gradu
sve više, sve su veće
i nude sve više
Every day there are increasingly
more bookstores, they are becoming
larger and their offer is richer daily

Knjigama
je u Rijeci ugodno
Books feel comfortable in Rijeka
 37

Nakon što je predstavio svoje najnovije izdanje, urednik jedne After introducing his latest edition, the editor of one of the
od vodećih hrvatskih nakladničkih kuća, uživajući u mirisnoj leading publishing houses in Croatia, sitting in one of the
aromi kave za jednim od mnogobrojnih stolova na Korzu, nije numerous tables on the Korzo, with the aroma of coffee
propustio napomenuti: „Lijepo je biti čovjek od knjige u Rijeci wafting up from his cup, he did not restrain himself from
jer je Rijeka grad koji nudi gostoprimstvo svakoj knjižari koja saying: “It is nice to be occupied in the world of books in Ri-
u njemu traži svoj dom.“ jeka this is the city that offers hospitality to any bookstore
looking for home in Rijeka.”
Već i površna šetnja Korzom potvrđuje da je ovaj čovjek kojem
su knjige sastavni i nezaobilazni dio života u pravu kad kaže Even a brief walk along the Korzo, confirms that this person
da je Rijeka grad u kojem je knjigama ugodno. Već nekoliko for whom books are a constituent and unavoidable part of
godina trend otvaranja novih knjižarskih prostora u gradu ne his life, is right when he tells us that Rijeka is a town where
posustaje, a u 2010. je dosegao vrhunac. Zasluga je to i dvaju books have a good feeling. For a number of years there has
novih svetišta tiskane riječi koja su na samom Korzu otvorile been a trend of opening new bookstores in the city which
nakladničke kuće VBZ i Profil. Da, knjige su u Rijeci opet in. has never ceased and in 2010 it has reached its maximum. It
is also thanks to two new sanctuaries of the published word
Svi putovi na Korzu vode do knjižara čije police jednostavno which were opened on the Korzo by two large publishing
mame da se zakorači među njih. Šetajući zapadnom stranom houses - VBZ and Profil. Yes, in Rijeka books are in again.
Korza prema istoku, prve točke za prodaju knjiga dvije su
All the streets on the Korzo lead to bookstores whose
VBZ-ove gotovo susjedne knjižare. Zanimljivo je da se jesenas
shelves simply invite you to step between them. Walking
jedna od njih uselila u dio prostora u kojem je donedavno bila
along the western part of the Korzo towards the eastern
kavana Filodrammatica kojoj je ostao prednji dio prostora. U
part the first book selling points are the two VBZs, which
tom prostoru, sad već gotovo redovito, održavaju se promocije
are almost neighbouring. An interesting fact is that one of
knjiga pa možemo reći kako su se tu našle stopljene dvije stra-
them moved this autumn into the newly created space per-
sti – ona za kofeinom i ona za knjigama. Preko puta izlogom
taining to the Filodrammatica café bar, leaving the front
privlači knjižara Edit, mahom nudeći naslove na talijanskom
part of the former area to the café bar. In that part, book
jeziku. Usporedno s Korzom, u ulici Dolac, već duže vrijeme
presentations have almost become a regular occurrence, so
obitava druga VBZ knjižara, nezaobilazno odredište za one
it could be said that two passions are united here – the one
koji su u potrazi za školskim udžbenicima. Glavna konkuren-
for caffeine and the one for books. On the other side of the
cija im je knjižara Školske knjige u ulici Ignacija Henckea.
street, the shop window of the Edit bookstore attracts us by
Slijedimo li zov slova u Starom gradu, ni u kojem slučaju ne mostly offering titles in Italian. Parallel to the Korzo Street
smijemo zaobići knjižaru Ribook u ulici Janeza Trdine. Ka- Dolac Street extends where you can find a bookstore that
kva ulica, takva i knjižara – smještena u omanjem, ugodnom is a constant attraction for those looking for school books.
prostoru koje jednostavno poziva da se u njemu izgubite u Their main competition is the Školska knjiga bookstore lo-
potrazi za nekim dobrim naslovom. Potrudite li se saznati tko cated in Ignacio Hencke Street.
 38

If we follow the call of the letters to the old part of the city,
the Ribook bookstore in Janez Trdina Street is not to be
missed. The street is like its bookstore – situated in a small,
pleasant space whose atmosphere simply invites you to
loose yourself in your search for a good book title. If we try
to discover who visits this small temple of literature and if
we are aware of how many new title presentations are car-
ried out on a daily basis here, you can be sure that there is
no lack of book lovers in Rijeka. Just a few steps forward and
you will find yourself in Medulićeva Street surrounded by a
series of houses where the task of diffusing the published
word has been achieved by another smaller, but pleasant
Svijet knjige bookstore.
How fond is the old part of the city of these kinds of con-
tents is demonstrated by one of two bookstores, specialized
in the sale of religious literature – the Verbum bookstore in
Janez Trdina Street. Anyone who peers into the storefront
of the Kršćanska Sadašnjost bookstore, opened a year or
two ago in Fiorello la Guardia Street, knows that it is the
perfect upgrade to the aforementioned bookstore. A few
minutes walk from the Kršćanska Sadašnjost bookstore, in
Ciotta Street, the Mali neboder antique shop offers its serv-
ices to of literature lovers and the like. There is no better
place for anyone looking for any kind of information related
to the city’s publishing history, a lost title that would clarify
this or that theme about Rijeka than this antique shop. The
same is true for the Ex libris antique shop located in Zajčeva
sve posjećuje taj mali hram književnosti i koliko se promocija Street. Besides editions that have already passed through a
novih izdanja ovdje svakodnevno događa, bit će vam jasno da u number of readers’ hands, (“books with experience”) at Ex
Rijeci ljubitelja dobre knjige ne manjka. Samo nekoliko kora- libris you can find their own publications, which still smell
ka naprijed i naći ćete se u Medulićevoj ulici, okruženi nizom of printing ink. In the eastern part of the Korzo, the two-
kuća gdje zadatak širenja tiskane riječi uspješno obavlja još floor Profil bookstore does not go unnoticed. It is probably
jedna nevelika, ali ugodna knjižara Svijeta knjige. the largest place for book sales in Rijeka, but instead of de-
scribing it here - we suggest you visit it. However, Profil has
Koliko je Stari grad sklon takvim sadržajima potvrđuje i jedna
not limited its activity just to the Korzo and to pedestrians
od dvije knjižare specijalizirane za prodaju vjerske literature
passing through the city centre, but has established its place
- knjižara Verbum, smještena u Ulici Janeza Trdine. Savršena
in the commercial centre in the Sušak’s part of the city - the
nadopuna je knjižara Kršćanske sadašnjosti, otvorena prije
Tower Centre.
godinu-dvije dana u ulici Fiorella la Guardije, što zna svatko
tko je ikad zavirio u njezin izlog. Nekoliko minuta hoda od nje, Thirteen bookstores in Rijeka amongst which a few have
u Ciottinoj ulici, književnim je i inim radoznalcima na usluzi only recently opened, are a sign that books feels at home in
antikvarijat Mali neboder. Onaj tko traži bilo kakvu informa- the city on the Rječina River. Thirteen is a lucky number for
ciju vezanu uz tiskarsku povijest grada, zagubljeni naslov koji books in Rijeka.
bi rastumačio ovu ili onu riječku temu, nema boljeg mjesta od
antikvarijata. Slično vrijedi i za antikvarijat Ex libris u Zajčevoj
ulici. Osim izdanja koja su već prošla čitateljske ruke („knjige
s iskustvom“), u Ex librisu se može posegnuti i za njihovim
vlastitim izdanjima, tek izašlim iz tiskarskoga stroja. Na istoč-
nom kraju Korza, dvokatna Profilova knjižara ne može proći
nezamijećena. Ona je možda i najveće mjesto za prodaju knji-
ga u Rijeci i umjesto da je ovdje opisujemo – predlažemo da
je posjetite. Profil se, međutim, nije ograničio samo na Korzo
i prolaznike gradskim središtem već je svoje mjesto našao i u
trgovačkoj meki na sušačkoj strani grada - Tower Centru.
Trinaest riječkih knjižara, među kojima nekoliko tek nedav-
no otvorenih, znakom je da se knjiga u gradu na Rječini osjeća
ugodno. Trinaest je za knjigu u Rijeci sretan broj.
40
Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Velid Đekić Fotografije / Photos: Rino Gropuzzo

Netko je jednom rekao da je Rijeka neobičan grad koji nikad

ne prestaje iznenađivati. Upravo kad pomislite da ste o njemu
saznali sve, on iznenadi novim vrijednim otkrićem, novim in-
trigantnim podatkom.
Otkriće Fragmenata mudrih izreka, Tijekom listopada 2010. godine, u sklopu izložbe "Od bitija
najstarijeg riječkoga glagoljskog rukopisa, kapucinskoga fragmenti", postavljene u riječkom Pomorskom
predstavljeno je na izložbi povodom 400. i povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskoga primorja i posvećene 400.
obljetnice dolaska kapucina u Hrvatsku obljetnici dolaska kapucina na hrvatsko tlo Rijeka je to još jed-
no dokazala.
An Exposure of Fragments of Wise
Počeci glagoljaštva započeli su u Rijeci o čemu svjedoči izgrad-
Proverbs’, the oldest manuscript in Rijeka
nja prvog samostana toga crkvenog reda na području Hrvat-
to be written in the Glagolitic alphabet is ske koji je 1610. godine izgrađen u dijelu grada zvanom Žabica.
represented at the exhibition to celebrate Rijeka je nukleus iz kojeg su se kapucini širili gradeći samo-
the 400th anniversary of the Order of stane u Zagrebu (1618.), Splitu (1691.), Osijeku (1703.) i Karlo-
Friars Minor Capuchin’s arrival in Croatia bagu (1710.). Među brojnim rukopisima, tiskanim knjigama,
sakralnim i ostalim predmetima iz knjižnica i riznica riječkog

Glagoljaški
i drugih kapucinskih samostana u Hrvatskoj koji govore o tom
širenju, izložba je ponudila čak 40 glagoljaških rukopisa. Ru-
kopise javnost ima priliku vidjeti po prvi puta nakon što su
bili dostupni tek malom broju najupućenijih istraživača koji

korijeni
su ih pronašli skrivene unutar korica, hrptova i listova vrijed-
nih knjiga. Riječ je o 14 tiskanih knjiga iz razdoblja od 16. do
18. stoljeća, u kojima je pronađeno 11 rukopisnih fragmenata
i desetak razrezanih starih stranica (tzv. ostrižaka) glagoljskih
liturgijskih kodeksa na pergameni, koji su najčešće završili kao

grada
ovitci tih knjiga.

Someone once said that Rijeka is an unusual city which

never ceases to surprise. At the moment you might think
you have discovered everything there is to know about it,

Glagolitic
then it surprises you with a new and valuable finding, or
some new and intriguing data.
Throughout October 2010, as part of the Od bitija kapucin-

city origins
skog fragmenti exhibition at the Rijeka Maritime and His-
torical Museum of the Croatian Littoral and dedicated to
the 400th anniversary of Order of Friars Minor Capuchin’s
arrival in Croatia, Rijeka has proved it again..
The origins of glagolitics began in Rijeka which is demon-
strated by the construction of the first monastery of that
Order in Croatia, erected in 1610 in the part of town known
as Žabica. Rijeka is a nucleus from which the Order of Friars
Minor Capuchin expanded by building monasteries in Za-
greb (1618), Split (1691), Osijek (1703) and Karlobag (1710).
Among the numerous manuscripts, published books, sa-
cred and other objects from libraries and a thesaurus of Ri-
jeka and other Capuchin monasteries in Croatia which tell
of this expansion, the exhibition offers up to 40 Glagolitic
scripts. The Public will have the opportunity to see these
scripts for the first time as up until now they have only been
privy to a small number of the most instructed researchers
who found them hidden even from themselves within the
covers, the spine and in the sheets of valuable books. We are
talking about 14 books published in the period from 16th to
18th century in which 11 manuscript fragments have been
found together with around ten cut-out old pages (the so
 41

Stručnjaci smatraju kako je glagoljanje u

Rijeci prihvaćeno već krajem 9. ili početkom
10. stoljeća. Baš iz tog razloga ne možemo
biti sigurni da već sutra nećemo pronaći
neki rukopis iz vremena prije 13. stoljeća.

According to experts, the Glagolitic

alphabet started to be used in Rijeka at
the end of 9th or at the beginning of 10th
century. Because of this, can we be sure
that even tomorrow we might reveal
some new manuscript dating back to
the period prior to the 13th century?

Najstariji primjerak called clippings) of Glagolitic liturgical codex on parch-

Svi ti glagoljaški rukopisi predstavljaju jedno izuzetno otkriće ment which mostly ended up as the wraps of those books.
međutim jedan od njih se ipak izdvaja - Fragmenti mudrih izreka
- koji potječe s početka druge polovice 13. stoljeća. To je najstariji The oldest sample
glagoljski rukopis pronađen u Rijeci a ujedno i najstariji primje- all these Glagolitic manuscripts and clippings represent
rak hrvatskoga glagoljskog prijevoda te biblijske knjige. Pronašla an excellent discovery but one of them is particularly im-
ga je znanstvena suradnica Staroslavenskog instituta, dr. sc. Ani- portant the - Fragments of the Wise Proverbs - a Glagolitic
ca Vlašić-Anić, u knjižnici riječkoga kapucinskog samostana. Do manuscript originating from the beginning of the second
pronalaska Fragmenata, najstarijim dokazom korištenja glago- half of 13th century. It is the oldest Glagolitic manuscript
ljice u Rijeci je smatran latinski prijevod jedne hrvatske isprave to be found in Rijeka and at the same time is the oldest sam-
pisane 1371. godine. ple of Croatian Glagolitic translation of this Bible. It was
discovered by a scientific co-worker of the Ancient Slavic
Obzirom da se Rijeka zemljopisno i kulturološki nalazi u srcu
Institute, with a PhD in science, Anica Vlašić-Anić, in the
Kvarnera, najbogatijeg hrvatskog glagoljaškog područja, za očeki-
booklet of Rijeka’s Capuchin Monastery. Until the discov-
vati je da otkriće Fragmenata mudrih izreka i ostalih glagoljskih
ery of the Fragments, the oldest proof of Glagolitic alpha-
rukopisa neće biti posljednje pronađeno u gradskom sjedištu
bet use in Rijeka was considered the Latin translation of a
kapucina.
Croatian document written in 1371.
Međutim, ne smijemo zaboraviti ni Vrbnik, kojeg se, zbog im-
As Rijeka is geographically and culturally located in the
presivnog broja glagoljskih spomenika, s pravom naziva pravom
centre of Kvarner, the richest Croatian Glagolitic area, it
kolijevkom glagoljaštva. Tu je i Baška gdje je pronađen važan spo-
is to be expected that discovery of Fragments of the Wise
menik hrvatske kulture - Bašćanska ploča ali i Novi Vinodolski, u
Proverbs and other Glagolitic manuscripts will not be the
kojem je nastao Vinodolski zakonik, najstariji pravni tekst pisan
last of those found in the city seat of Capuchins. But Vrb-
na hrvatskom jeziku. Mnoga su još mjesta koja svjedoče o posto-
nik should not be forgotten either as, thanks to the impres-
janju glagoljanja poput Omišlja, Dobrinja, Valuna, Bribira, Bakra,
sive number of Glagolitic monuments there, it is rightfully
Grobnika, Kastva, Veprinca, Lovrana, Mošćenica, Klane…
called the true cradle of Glagolitics. There are also examples
of Baška, where the most important monument of Croatian
Riječka glagoljaška tradicija
culture - the Baška Tablet – was found and Novi Vinodolski
U Rijeci živi ista ona glagoljaška tradicija razgranata u njezinom where the Vinodol Statute, the oldest legal text written in
okruženju, ostavljajući tragove koje i danas neprekidno otkriva- Croatian language was written. There are also a number of
mo. Stručnjaci smatraju kako je glagoljanje u Rijeci prihvaćeno već other places which bear witness to the use of the Glagolitic
krajem 9. ili početkom 10. stoljeća, što znači istodobno kad i u riječ- alphabet in places such as Omišalj, Dobrinj, Valun, Bribir,
kome okruženju. Baš iz tog razloga ne možemo biti sigurni da već Bakar, Grobnik, Kastav, Veprinac, Lovran, Mošćenice, Kla-
sutra nećemo pronaći neki rukopis iz vremena prije 13. stoljeća. na, etc
Uostalom, zaraza glagoljanjem tako je rano započela i traje još
uvijek pa grad na Rječini nije učinila samo punovrijednom sa- Rijeka’s glagolitic tradition
stavnicom glagoljaškoga svijeta, nego – u jednoj fazi – i središtem in Rijeka, the same glagolitic tradition continues to live
glagoljaške priče. Bilo je to doba biskupa Šimuna Kožičića Benje on, spread out within its surroundings leaving traces that
(oko 1456.-1536.) koji je, uzmičući pred turskim navalama stigao we are constantly revealing even today. According to ex-
u Rijeku, te u listopadu 1530. pokrenuo vlastitu tiskaru. Uz pomoć perts, the Glagolitic alphabet started to be used in Rijeka
dva unajmljena tiskara te godine objavljuje dvije knjige, Psaltir i at the end of 9th or at the beginning of 10th century, which
molitvenik Oficij Rimski. means at the same time that it started to be used within its
 42

Benja je bio jedan od uzroka što je Rijeka u najnovije doba, preci- surroundings. Because of this, can we be sure that even to-
znije od 1968., postala još jednim središtem priče o glagoljaštvu. morrow we might reveal some new manuscript dating back
to the period prior to the 13th century.
U to se danas može uvjeriti svaki posjetitelj Sveučilišne knjižnice
Rijeka, u kojoj se od 1968.godine može posjetiti stalna izložba gla- However, use of the Glagolitic alphabet is so ancient and
goljice. Izložene su kopije glagoljskih zapisa i kamenih spomenika continuous that it has made the city lying on the Rječina
s područja Kvarnera i Istre, fotografska uvećanja dijelova zborni- River not only a full member of the Glagolitic world, but –
ka i tekstova nazvanih lucidari, glagoljaški književni zapisi i prav- in a single phase - the centre of Glagolitic history too. It was
ni tekstovi, zapisi glagoljaških bratovština, zapisi na srednjovje- the period of bishop Šimun Kožičić Benja (around 1456-
kovnim freskama, te hrvatske tiskane knjige. Postav je obogaćen 1536) who on retreating from the Ottoman raids, opened
fotografijama krajolika na područjima na kojima se glagoljaštvo his own printing house. With the help of two hired printers
širilo i starih alata. Tematski autor izložbe je akademik Branko he published two books in the same year: Psaltery and the
Fučić (znanjem i elanom nenadmašan, a u kulturnoj i široj javno- prayer book Oficij Rimski (Roman Office).
sti omiljen, taj je stručnjak pronašao više od polovine hrvatskih
Benja was one of the themes why Rijeka has recently be-
glagoljskih zapisa), s njime i ugledna povjesničarka umjetnosti, dr.
come, to be more precise since 1968, another centre of the
sc. Vanda Ekl. Postav potpisuje poznati riječki arhitekt Igor Emili,
glagolitic alphabet history.
a kopije fresaka rad su akademskog slikara Eugena Kokota.
Today, anyone who visits the Rijeka University Library can
Kao što to glagoljaškoj Rijeci i dolikuje, Sveučilišna knjižnica nije
visit the permanent Glagolitic alphabet exhibition that has
samo mjesto kopija, ona je ujedno i mjesto gdje su pohranjeni
been exposed here since 1968. Copies of Glagolitic manu-
i originali. Za neke se zna, a neki od ostrižaka, skriveni u korica-
scripts and stone monuments from the area of Kvarner and
ma starih knjiga Sveučilišne knjižnice, još uvijek čekaju da budu
Istria are exhibited, together with photographic enlarge-
pronađeni.
ments of parts of almanacs and texts known as lucidari,
Baš kao što nam to pokazuje izložba povodom 400. obljetnice Glagolitic literature notes and legal texts, notes of Glagolitic
kapucina u Hrvatskoj, odgovore na pitanja kad će biti pronađe- brotherhoods, notes on middle age frescoes, as well as
ni i što će biti pronađeno nemoguće je dati unaprijed. Ostavimo Croatian published books. The collection is enriched by
iznenađenjima otvorena vrata i radujmo se Fragmentima mu- photos of landscapes where the Glagolitic alphabet was dif-
drih izreka i ostalim izlošcima u Pomorskom i povijesnom mu- fused and by photos of old utensils. The thematic author of
zeju Hrvatskoga primorja, koji nam o Rijeci govore ono što do the exhibition is Branko Fučić (unbeaten in his knowledge
jučer o njoj nismo znali. and enthusiasm, and a favourite amongst cultural circles
and the public at large, this expert has discovered more than
half of the Croatian Glagolitic notes) together with eminent
art historian, PhD in science Vanda Ekl. The exhibition is
endorsed by famous Rijeka architect, Igor Emili and copies
of frescoes are the work of academic painter, Eugen Kokot.
As befits Glagolitic Rijeka, the University Library is not
only a place of copies, it is also where the originals are ar-
chived. Some are known whilst a number of clippings, hid-
den within the covers of old books in the University Library,
are waiting to be uncovered.
Precisely as this exhibition celebrates the 400th anniver-
sary of the Capuchins in Croatia shows, it is impossible to
answer what and when will be discovered in advance. So
let's leave the door open for surprises and let’s enjoy the
Fragments of Wise Proverbs’ as well as the other exhibits at
the Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian Lit-
toral which tell us about those things in Rijeka that we did
not know previously.

Iz tiskare koja je djelovala unutar današnjega From the printing house which operated within the
riječkog Starog grada, sljedeće godine stižu još area of today’s old part of the city of Rijeka, another
četiri naslova: Misal hrvacki, Knjižice krsta, four books will be published next year: Misal hrvacki,
Od bitija redovničkoga knjižice, te Knjižice Knjižice krsta, Od bitija redovničkoga knjižice and
od žitija prvih rimskih arhijereov i cesarov. Knjižice od žitija prvih rimskih arhijereov i cesarov.
Nije na odmet znati da je ona prvo tiskano It is good to know that the last one is the first published
povijesno djelo pisano na hrvatskom jeziku. historical work to be written in the Croatian language.
 43
Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Andrea Marić Fotografije / Photos: Arhiva TZ Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board

Prosinac
u Rijeci...
...ili kako se
grad pretvara u
najljepšu bajku
December in Rijeka...
...or how the city
becomes the most
beautiful fairy tale

Nekome je Rijeka najljepša u proljeće, u Dane sv. Vida, Some people consider Rijeka at its most beautiful in the
netko je više voli u kasno ljeto ili pak u vrijeme karne- springtime, during the St. Vitus days festival, others pre-
vala, no sigurno se većina ipak najviše raduje prosincu fer it in the late summer or during the carnival period,
u svom gradu. Tamo negdje uoči blagdana sv. Nikole but the majority are undoubtedly excited about Decem-
kada Rijeka zasja u svjetlu tisuću lampica, a Korzo na- ber in their city. Somewhere around the St Nicholas holi-
likuje mjestu iz najljepše božićne bajke. Upravo u to day, Rijeka is lit up by thousands of decorative lights and
vrijeme svoj grad najviše vole mali Riječani, ali i oni the Korzo looks like somewhere from the most beautiful
veći koje upravo toplina blagdanske dekoracije tjera Christmas tale. Young Rijeka citizens are those who love
da na nekoliko dana zaborave svakodnevne brige. their city the most during this period. Older ones like it
 44

Grad Rijeka, Turistička zajednica i gradski too, as the warmth of the holiday decorations makes them for-
ugostitelji misle na svoje ostale sugrađane get their everyday worries for a while.
pa se na Badnjak priprema tradicionalna If you find yourselves in Rijeka in December, you will not re-
gastro-fešta a Riječane se časti plavom ribom, gret it as the always busy Korzo, puts on its ceremonial cloth-
bakalarom na gulaš i toplim fritulama. ing. Here stands with wonderful gift offers can be found, St Ni-
cholas and Santa Claus cheering up the children with a sweet
The Municipality of Rijeka, the Rijeka Tourist or two. Here even a cheerful train passes by transporting
Board and city caterers think about their youngsters from one end of the Korzo to another, accompa-
fellow citizens so a traditional food party is nied by their favourite cartoon and fairytale characters which
offered to the citizens of Rijeka on Christmas they visit whilst impatiently looking forward to Christmas or
Eve with blue fish and codfish prepared New Year’s Eve.
in goulash together with hot fritule.
During those days on the Korzo the aromas of delicious foods
can often be smelt. Besides the children, the Municipality of
Ako se upravo u prosincu zateknete u Rijeci nećete požaliti Rijeka, the Rijeka Tourist Board and city caterers think about
jer u to vrijeme uvijek užurbano Korzo odijeva svoje sveča- their fellow citizens so a traditional food party is offered to the
no ruho. Nađe se tu mjesta za štandove s prigodnom ponu- citizens of Rijeka on Christmas Eve with blue fish and cod-
dom darova za sv. Nikolu, a potom i Djeda Božićnjaka koji fish prepared in goulash together with hot fritule (traditional
djecu razvesele pokojom slasticom. Ugura se tu i veseli vla- pastry).
kić koji danima prevozi mališane od jednoga na drugi kraj
Korza, a sve u društvu omiljenog im lika čiji posjet potom s During those December days in Rijeka and the surrounding
nestrpljenem očekuju u božićnoj ili novogodišnjoj noći. areas too, numerous fitting programs, concerts, shows and ex-
hibitions are held …For the majority of them, we can say that
Nerijetko tih dana Korzom zamirišu i neodoljivi mirisi sla- they have already become part of the city advent tradition.
snih jela. Grad Rijeka, Turistička zajednica i gradski ugosti- You can find Christmas and New Year’s Eve’s concerts held at
telji osim na djecu misle i na svoje ostale sugrađane pa se na the “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre. Then the Božić
Badnjak priprema tradicionalna gastro-fešta a Riječane se je judi (People It’s Christmas) concert that has been organized
časti plavom ribom, bakalarom na gulaš i toplim fritulama. for years by members of the Croatian Music Union from Ri-
Tih prosinačkih dana u Rijeci, a i okolici, odvijaju se brojni jeka and held at the St. Vitus Cathedral. The younger members
prigodni programi, koncerti, predstave, izložbe… Za većinu will be cheered up by the Psihomodo Pop group concert at the
 45

njih se može reći da su već dio adventske tradicije u gradu. Youth Sports Hall and art lovers by the December exhibition
Prije svega tu su božićni i novogodišnji koncerti u kazali- of sculptures by artist Jasna Bogdanović in the Mali salon
štu Ivana pl. Zajca. Zatim “Božić je judi”, koncert kojeg već Gallery.
godinama organiziraju članovi Hrvatske glazbene unije iz
The Božić na mostu (Christmas on the bridge) Fair should not
Rijeke, a održava se u katedrali sv. Vida. One malo mlađe ra-
be forgotten either. It is held on the bridge which crosses the
zveselit će koncert grupe “Psihomodo Pop” u Dvorani mla-
Rječina River and is full of real holiday atmosphere accompa-
dosti, a ljubitelje umjetnosti prosinačka izložba skulptura
nied by singing, real homemade pastries and fitting decora-
Jasne Bogdanović u Malom salonu.
tions and gifts manufactured by craftsmen. The Rijeka Astro-
Nikako ne treba zaboraviti i sajam “Božić na mostu”, koji se nomical Centre is also included in the holiday December with
održava na mostu na Rječini, a na kojem ne nedostaje pra- its special program. Their Božić u Planetariju (Christmas in
vog blagdanskoga ugođaja uz pjesmu, prave domaće kolače the Planetarium) will delight visitors of all ages. A team of as-
i prigodne ukrase kao i darove koje su izradili obrtnici. U tronomers created this popular and scientific program which
blagdanski prosinac svojim se posebnim programom uklju- represents the view of the night sky at Christmas, at the time
čuje i Astronomski centar Rijeka. Njihov “Božić u Planeta- of Jesus’s birth, accompanied by an astronomical interpreta-
riju” zavoljet će i mali i veliki. Ekipa astronoma osmislila je tion of the story about the Star of Bethlehem and the story of
ovaj popularno-znanstveni program koji predstavlja prikaz the Three Wise Men. The projection is enriched by the prop-
noćnoga neba na Božić u vrijeme Isusova rođenja uz astro- erly decorated place and Christmas music that make the expe-
nomsko tumačenje priče o Betlehemskoj zvijezdi i priče o rience truly unforgettable.
tri mudraca. Projekciju obogaćuje i prigodno okićen prostor
The special holiday offer is also created by the city’s hotels, res-
i božićna glazba tako da je doživljaj uistinu nezaboravan.
taurants, café bars, pubs, and bars both on land and at sea, so
Posebnu blagdansku ponudu osmišljavaju i gradski hoteli, Rijeka will undoubtedly be one of the most cheerful cities this
restorani, kafići, pubovi, barovi, oni na kopnu i oni na moru, December too.
tako da ne treba sumnjati da će Rijeka i ovog prosinca biti
And befitting it, the culmination will take place on New
jedan od najveselijih gradova.
Year's Eve for which celebrations on the Korzo will play Let
A kako i priliči, sve će kulminirati na Staru godinu za čiji će 3, Neno Belan and Fiumensi as well as My Buddy Moose. Ri-
ispraćaj na Korzu svirati “Let 3”, Neno Belan i “Fiumensi” jeka will sail into 2011 with an intense play by local groups.
te “My Buddy Moose”. Rijeka će u novu 2011. godinu uplo- Wherever you find yourselves during the holiday period,
viti uz žestoku svirku domaćih snaga. Gdje god je dočekali, we hope you have a better, more beautiful and happier year
neka Vam bude bolja, ljepša i sretnija od prethodne. than the last one.
 46
Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Lidija Šušak Fotografije / Photos: arhiva/archive

Najmodernija
Ove je godine Rijeka
dobila atletsku dvoranu
This year Rijeka got its Athletics Hall

atletska dvorana u Hrvatskoj

The most modern athletics hall in Croatia
Riječki atletičari svoj su dom dugo čekali, no kad su u svibnju Rijeka’s athletes have waited for their home for a long time, but
ove godine po prvi puta ušli u novu atletsku dvoranu, za 500-ti- when they entered the new athletics hall for the first time in May
njak članova Atletskog kluba Kvarner ispunjen je najljepši san. this year, the most beautiful dream for around 500 members of
Bez obzira gledali je samo izvana ili u nju kročili, u jednom the Kvarner Athletics Club came true. The hall is the most beau-
se svi slažu - najljepša je i najmodernija atletska dvorana u tiful and most modern athletics hall in Croatia, a few of those
Hrvatskoj. who stepped inside it or just watched it from outside said.

Kantrida - sportski centar Rijeke Kantrida - Rijeka’s sport centre

Novom atletskom dvoranom Rijeka je dobila još jedan vrhun- With its new athletics hall, Rijeka got another excellently
ski opremljen sportski objekt, smješten u neposrednoj blizini equipped sporting facility located very close to the Kantrida
stadiona Kantrida na kojem se također nalazi atletska staza. Stadium that also has athletics track. When we add that to the
Kad se tome pridodaju Bazeni Kantrida i Sportsko-rekreacij- Kantrida Swimming Pools Complex and the 3.maj Sports and
ski centar 3.maj , za Kantridu se s pravom može reći da je po- Recreational Centre - Kantrida has become Rijeka’s true sport
stala pravi riječki sportski centar. centre.

Za atletičare i sve Riječane For athletes and all Rijeka inhabitants

Gradnja dvorane započela je 2008. godine, trajala je oko godi- The construction of the hall began in 2008, it lasted for around
nu i pol dana dok je vrijednost radova iznosila oko 40 milijuna year and a half and the total value of the work amounts to
kuna. Polivalentna atletska sportska dvorana prvenstveno je around 40 million Kunas. The polyvalent athletics sports hall
namijenjena treninzima atletskih ekipa i organizaciji dvoran- is principally dedicated to the training of athletic teams and
skih sportskih atletskih natjecanja. No, ne služi samo atletiča- the organization of indoor sport athletics competitions. But it
rima već je na raspolaganju svim Riječanima koji u njezinim does not only serve athletes. It is at the disposal of all Rijeka
 47

prostorima mogu organizirati ostale sportsko-rekreativne ak- inhabitants for the organization of other sporting and rec-
tivnosti poput rukometa, košarke, tenisa, sportskog penjanja, reational activities such as handball, basketball, tennis, sport
aerobika, plesa i drugih natjecanja. climbing, aerobics, dance and other competitions.

Osam staza Eight tracks

Na parteru dvorane ukupne površine dvije tisuće metara nala- On the ground floor, with a total surface area of two thousand
zi se osam trkaćih staza dužine 60 metara. Uređene su površi- square metres, there are eight 60 metre-long race tracks. Sur-
ne za skokove u dalj, discipline troskoka, površine za vježbanje faces for long jump, triple jump and those for practicing throw-
bacačkih disciplina. ing disciplines have also been set up.

Umjetna stijena Climbing wall

U atletskoj dvorani mjesto za treniranje dobili su i penjači - u even climbers have a place for training within the new athlet-
jednom dijelu dvorane smještena je umjetna stijena za penja- ics hall. In one part of the hall is a climbing wall. It is 12 metres
nje. Visoka je 12 metara i ima 17 pravaca. To je inače najveća high and has 17 routes. It is the largest indoor artificial rock
umjetna stijena u zatvorenim prostorima u Hrvatskoj. Iznad face in Croatia. Above the main ground floor there are two
glavnoga partera smještene su dvije manje dvorane namije- smaller halls dedicated to aerobics and dancing. The hall has
njene vježbanju aerobika i plesa. U dvorani ima 330 sjedećih 330 seats and an additional 80 standing places. By opening the
mjesta uz dodatnih 80 stajaćih. Otvorenjem atletske dvorane new athletics hall a new athletics age has begun in Rijeka. The
počelo je novo doba atletike u Rijeci. Naglo je porastao broj čla- number of club members has suddenly increased, especially
nova kluba, posebno najmlađih pa su trenutno najpopularnije the number of younger members as the club's hit are athletic
atletske igraonice za najmlađe. U Rijeci treniraju atletičari i playing rooms dedicated to younger members. In Rijeka ath-
atletičarke iz cijele županije. letes train s from throughout county.

Luciano Sušanj Luciano Sušanj

Kroz Atletski klub Kvarner prošli su mnogi vrhunski atle- Many top athletes have been members of the Kvarner Athlet-
tičari, no jedno je ime ostalo je nedodirljivo. Sedamdesetih ics Club, but one name has remained untouchable. During the
godina prošloga stoljeća bio je jedan od najboljih svjetskih 1970s he was one of the greatest world runners at 800 metres.
800-metraša. Njegovu kratku atletsku karijeru obilježile su His short athletic career was marked by two races. In 1974, at
dvije utrke. Na Europskom prvenstvu u Rimu 1974. osvojio je the European Championships in Rome he won a gold medal
zlatnu medalju na 800 metara, istrčavši i danas svjetski vri- at 800 metres, with a world record time, that is still unbeaten
jednih 1:44.07, a dvije godine kasnije je na Olimpijskim Igra- today of 1:44.07 and two years later at the Olympic Games in
ma u Montrealu zauzeo šesto mjesto u istoj disciplini. Zlato Montreal he won sixth place at the same distance. In 1974 he
na 800 metara osvojio je i na dvoranskom Europskom prven- won a gold medal in the 800 metres in the European Indoor
stvu 1974., a odlične rezultate ostvario je i na 400 metara, dis- Championships too and he accomplished great results at 400
ciplini u kojoj je, među ostalim, osvojio zlato na dvoranskom metres, a distance in which, amongst others, he won a gold
prvenstvu Europe 1973. Nalazi se na ljestvicama 10 najboljih medal at the European Indoor Championship in 1973. He is
hrvatskih trkača svih vremena u svim disciplinama od 200 do listed among the top 10 Croatian runners of all times and in all
1000 metara. distances from 200 to 1000 metres.
48
Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich Fotografije / Photos: Nick Turina

Rijeka više od stotinu godina Rijeka has been training water-polo

Riječani žive vaterpolo

odgaja vaterpoliste players for more than a century

Rijeka inhabitants live water-polo

 49

Vaterpolo klub Primorje. Klub je to koji je nedavno zlatnim

slovima ispisao dan kada je davne 1908. godine pod ime-
nom Victoria – Primorje zasjao i do danas se održao kao
najstarije plivačko društvo u Hrvatskoj. Blistava povijest
kluba koja je prolazila kroz četiri države, preživjela dvije
okupacije i četiri puta mijenjala ime, zapamtila je mnoge
velike trenutke svojega življenja. Iako Primorje nikada pod
tim imenom nije osvojilo državni naslov, to je daleke 1938.
godine uspjelo tek ondašnjoj Victoriji. Nebrojeno puta sa-
svim blizu velikih trofeja no uvijek je nedostajao završni
zaveslaj koji bi ukrasio vaterpolske vitrine kluba najvećim
sportskim uspjehom. Kao jedan od takvih u novijoj povije- The Primorje Water-Polo Club. This is the club that recently
sti treba izdvojiti osvojeni hrvatski Kup iz 1996. i broncu iz wrote with golden letters the day when back in 1908, under the
2004. sa Final four-a Eurolige u Budimpešti. Pravu rene- name Victoria-Primorje, it was lit and preserved as the oldest
sansu klub proživljava u ljeto 2007. Nakon punog desetlje- swimming society in Croatia. The club’s bright past has passed
ća u svoje matično gnijezdo vraća se peterostruki osvajač through four states, survived two occupations and changed its
svjetskih i europskih odličja i kapetan hrvatske vaterpol- name four times, recalls a number of important moments in its
ske reprezentacije, Samir Barač. Kao grom odjeknula je life. Even if the club, under the name Primorje, never won the
vijest među nekadašnjim suigračima, redom reprezentati- state championship, it managed to accomplish Victoria back
vaca, koji potaknuti ''kapetanom'' slijede njegov primjer i in 1928. It has been very close to the big trophies many times,
svoju vjernost ponovno daju Primorju. I onda se dogodio but has always missed the final stroke that would decorate the
24. srpanj 2008., datum kojeg će upamtiti svaki onaj ljubi- water-polo club’s windows with the greatest sporting success.
telj plivanja ili vaterpola. To je dan u kojem je Rijeka dobila One of those in recent history could be the Croatian Cup, won
možda i najljepši sportsko – rekreacijski kompleks bazena in 1996 and a bronze medal won in 2004 in the Euroleague's
u Europi. San generacija i generacija te se godine napokon Final Four in Budapest. The club experienced a true renais-
ispunio. Vaterpolo u Rijeci dobiva snažnu injekciju za još sance in the summer of 2007 Samir Barač, the captain of the
strelovitiji uspon. Na novu dozu dobrih vijesti nije treba- Croatian water-polo team and winner of five European and
lo dugo čekati. Redove Primorja pojačali su ove godine sve world medals returned to his native club. The news spread
sami reprezentativci. Bijele riječke kapice nose Španjolac as fast as lightning amongst his former team-mates, a series
Xavier Garcia, te braća iz Mađarske Danijel i Denes Varga. of national team players who, inspired by their “captain”, fol-
Nekoliko sadašnjih i bivših reprezentativaca Hrvatske uz lowed his example and dedicated their fidelity to Primorje
ostatak ekipe čine moćan stroj Primorja pred kojim će u once again. And then an event happened on 24th July 2008,
sezoni 2010/2011 zadrhtati i mnogo poznatija imena ovo- a date that will be remembered by every swimming or water-
godišnje europske vaterpolske scene. Rijeka je tako dobila polo lover. It is the day when Rijeka got, perhaps the most
moćnu europsku ekipu. Dugo je vremena bilo potrebno da beautiful, sports and recreational pool complex in Europe.
bi se na Bazenima Kantrida stvorio kolektiv čiji cilj je je- The dream of many generations finally came true that year.
dan jedini – da čim više popuni trofejnu salu ovoga kluba. Water-polo in Rijeka received an even stronger injection for
U njima stoji jedno vjerojatno i najveće ime riječkog vater- even quicker success. They did not have to wait long for a new
pola, slavni vratar Zdravko Ćiro Kovačić, jedini riječki va- dose of good news. The Primorje team was strengthened this
terpolist primljen u Kuću slavnih u vodenim sportovima. year by a number of national team players. The white Rijeka
On će danas ponosno prošetati bazenom, nehotice bacaju- water-polo caps are now also worn by the Spaniard, Xavier
ći pogled prema mjestu rezerviranom za novi trofej koji će Garcia as well as brothers Danijela and Denes Varga from
s današnjim Primorjem zasigurno ugledati svjetlost dana. Hungary. Both present and former Croatian National Team
Želja? Ovogodišnja Euroliga... players together with the rest of the team have made a power-
ful Primorje machine in front of which, during the 2010/2011
season, even some of the more famous names of this year’s
European water-polo scene will tremble. In this way Rijeka
now has a powerful European team. A lot of time was neces-
sary in order to create a team at the Bazeni Kantrida (Kantrida
Pools) whose aim was only one – to fill the club's trophy room
as much as possible. Among them stands probably the greatest
name in Rijeka's water-polo, the famous goalkeeper Zdravko
Ćiro Kovačić, the only water-polo player from Rijeka to be ac-
cepted at the House of famous players in water sports. Today
he will proudly walk around the pool, unintentionally looking
at the place reserved for a new trophy that will surely be seen
there with today's Primorje team. Any request? This year’s
Euroleague…
50
Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Larry Ambrozich / Lidija Šušak Fotografije / Photos: Nick Turina

U Rijeci je boćanje način života Playing bocce bowles is part

of the Rijeka way of life

Igra mornara
koja je zaludila Mediteran
A sailors' game that has fascinated the Mediterranean
 51

Boćanje u Hrvatskoj je in. Bilo kao narodna igra koju igraju Playing bocce bowls in Croatia is trendy. No matter whether
sve generacije ili kao cijenjen sport. Kao igra rasprostra- it is played as a popular game across the generations or as a
njeno je duž cijele jadranske obale, a najčešće svako mjesto respectable sport. As a game it spread along the entire Adri-
ima svoja pravila i svoju verziju igre. Kao sport, boćanje je u atic coast, and more often than not every place has its own
Hrvatskoj jedan od najtrofejnijih i najmasovnijih sportova. rules and its own version of the same game. As a sport, bocce
bowls is the sport in Croatia with the most trophies won and
Rijeka živi boćanje with the highest number of people playing it.
Boćanje je u Rijeci posebna priča. Ovdje je ono puno više
od sporta i igre, za Riječane boćanje je način života i tra- Rijeka lives bocce bowls
dicija koja se uči u obitelji od malih nogu. Svoje prvu boću Playing bocce bowls represents a special story in Rijeka. It rep-
većina je bacila na nekoj od lokalnih boćarija, jer u riječ- resents much more than a simple sport and game. For Rijeka’s
koj regiji svako naselje ili mjesto ima svoj jog. Mjesto je inhabitants bocce bowls is a way of life and tradition acquaint-
to na kojem se okupljaju sve generacije mještana i dok ed within the family from childhood. Most people threw their
jedni igraju, drugi promatraju i uče, treći navijaju. Mala first ball in one of the local bocce bowl courts, as in the Rijeka
opasnost od povreda i lakoća igre, boćanje su pretvorili u region, every neighbourhood has its own court. It is also the
igru koju mogu igrati svi, od 7 pa do 107 godina. Fizičke place where all locals gather and whilst some of them play the
predispozicije nisu presudne, do izražaja više dolazi igra game, the others watch and learn, and others cheer. The slight
koncentracije i živaca, pojedinca ili ekipe. Najmasovniji je danger of injuries and the easiness of play have made bocce a
to sport u Rijeci i okolici, u županiji ima 90 registriranih game that can be played by everyone, from 7 to 107 years of
klubova u kojima igra 1500 boćara. age. Physical predispositions are not crucial, the individual or
team’s play of concentration and nerves is more important. It
Razonoda mornara is the sport that is played by the greatest number of people in
Prema povijesnim izvorima boćanje je još prije 2500 godi- Rijeka and its surroundings and has 90 registered clubs within
na bilo jedna od glavnih zabavnih igara u starom Egiptu, a the County where 1,500 bocce players play.
prema zapisima i Feničani i Grci igrali su nešto slično da-
našnjem boćanju. Mnogo godina kasnije, boćanje se spomi- Sailors’ entertainment
nje kao razonoda talijanskih mornara koji su bacali balote according to historical sources, playing bocce was one of the
( jedan od naziva za boće) i kladili se u rum ili vino kako bi main forms of entertainment in ancient Egypt some 2,500
prekratili vrijeme. Igra se potom proširila na cijeli Medi- years ago, and according to the inscriptions even the Phoeni-
teran gdje je i do danas najzastupljeniji sport. Najbrojniji i cians and Greeks played a game similar to today’s bocce. Many
najuspješniji boćari danas dolaze iz Italije i Francuske, a po years later, bocce is mentioned as a form of entertainment
broju osvojenih medalja i Hrvatska spada u red boćarskih used by Italian sailors who threw balote (one of the names
velesila. No, iako se igra u cijeloj Europi, ovaj sport još uvi- for bowls) and bet on rum or wine in order to pass the time.
jek nije primljen u olimpijsku obitelj i ne igra se na Olimpij- The game then spread throughout the Mediterranean where
skim igrama. it is the most played sport to date. The most numerous and
 52

Jednostavna igra successful bocce players today come from Italy and France,
Prije boćališta na kakvima se igra i danas, boće su se igrale and according to the number of medals won, even Croatia
na seoskim putevima i nekorištenim zemljištima. Najprije belongs amongst these powerful bocce countries. Although,
se igralo drvenim bulinima koji su kasnije zamijenjeni me- it is played in throughout Europe, this sport still hasn’t been
talnima. Boće se mogu igrati u dvoje ili u skupinama sa po accepted within the Olympic family and is not played at the
dva ili četiri igrača. Cilj je igre boću dokotrljati ili dobaciti Olympic Games.
što bliže bulinu (maloj kuglici), a ponekad najbližu protiv-
A simple game
ničku kuglu preciznim pogotkom izbiti, što je impresivan
podvig i uspjeva samo najuvježbanijim igračima. Boduju se Bocce bowls was played on rural roads and unused terrains
samo boće koje su bliže bulinu od protivničkih. Igra se sve in the past and now are played on bocce courts. Initially it
dok jedna od ekipa ne postigne 13. punat (bod). Profesio- was played using wooden bowls that were later replaced by
nalno boćanje kasnije se razgranalo u nekoliko disciplina te metal ones. Bocce can be played by two players or in teams of
su se boćari, osim u klasičnoj disciplini, usavršavali i u pre- two or four players. The aim of the game is to roll the bowl as
ciznom i brzinskom izbijanju, te bližanju i izbijanju u krug. close as possible to the jack (a smaller ball), and sometimes
Osim pojedinačno, na natjecanjima se igra i u parovima, a to knock the closest rival’s bowl with an accurate shot which
najzanimljivija su štafetna natjecanja. is an impressive accomplishment and only the most trained
players manage to do it. Only those bowls that are closest to
Rijeka je kolijevka hrvatskoga boćanja the jack are counted. The game ends when one team reaches
Kad se počelo “boćati” u našim krajevima nije poznato, oni 13 points. Professional playing was later expanded to few
najstariji boćari reći će da se boćalo oduvijek. No početkom specialities and bocce players, besides the classic specialties,
50-tih godina prošloga stoljeća boćanje se od razonode i have perfected themselves in the precision and the progres-
društvene igre kojoj je osnovni cilj bio dobra zabava i dru- sive as well as in combination. Besides individual competi-
ženje, razvija u natjecateljski sport. U Rijeci su u to vrijeme tion, doubles contests are played as well as are the most in-
osnovani prvi boćarski klubovi, a istodobno je osnovan i Bo- teresting relays competitions.
ćarski savez bivše države čije je središte bila Rijeka. Najsta-
riji klubovi osnovani su upravo u Rijeci koja je i onda i danas Rijeka is the craddle of Croatian bocce
slovila za rasadnik boćarskih talenata, a posebno je prepo- There is no data as to when bocce started to be played in our
znat i cijenjen rad s najmlađima. Hrvatska je sve te godine u area, but the oldest bocce players will say that bocce has been
vrhu svjetskoga boćanja, a u uspjeh svake generacije utkani played since time immemorial. But at the beginning of 1950s,
su rezultati boćara poteklih iz riječkih klubova. playing bocce developed, from a form of entertainment and
a social game whose main objective was to provide good fun
Dinko Beaković and something to do in a group, into a competitive sport.
Riječanin Dinko Beaković najtrofejniji je hrvatski boćar; During that period, the first bocce clubs were founded in Ri-
dvostruki je svjetski prvak, a vlasnik je i titule europskoga jeka as was the Bocce Association of the former state which
 53

was founded in the centre of Rijeka as well. The oldest clubs

Kad se počelo “boćati” u našim
were founded in Rijeka where both in the past and even to-
krajevima nije poznato, oni najstariji day they are considered to be the seed-plot of bocce talents,
boćari reći će da se boćalo oduvijek. and work with the youngest players is especially appreciated
and recognized. Croatia has for many years been on top of
There is no data as to when bocce started the world’s bocce league, and the success of every generation
to be played in our area, but the oldest is marked by the results of bocce players from Rijeka’s clubs.
bocce players will say that bocce has been
Dinko Beaković
played since time immemorial.
Rijeka player, Dinko Beaković is the Croatian bocce player
who has won most trophies; he has won the World Champion-
prvaka. Beaković je hrvatskom boćanju donio i prvu svjet- ship twice and is the holder of the title of European Champion
sku zlatnu medalju. Bilo je to 1993. godine u talijanskom as well. Beaković also won the first world gold medal in bocce.
Saluzzu i to u disciplini precizno izbijanje. Tijekom svoje It took place in 1993 in Italian Saluzzo, in the tir precision
igračke karijere osvojio je još 15- tak srebrnih i brončanih discipline. During his career as a player he has won approxi-
medalja sa svjetskih i europskih natjecanja a pobijedio mately 15 silver and bronze medals from world and European
je na 100-tinjak boćarskih turnira. Kao igrač, Dinko Bea- contests and he has won around 100 bocce tournaments. As a
ković osvojio je sve, a danas je jednako uspješan izbornik player, Dinko Beaković has won everything, and today is equal-
hrvatske boćarske reprezentacije koja se sa svih velikih ly successful as the selector of the Croatian bocce national
natjecanja vraća s medaljama. Na posljednjem natjecanju team that comes back from every contest with medals. At the
ove godine, na Europskom prvenstvu održanom u Tivtu, European Championship that took place in Tivat, this year's
hrvatski su boćari pod vodstvom izbornika Dinka Beako- latest contest, Croatian bocce players under the leadership of
vića osvojili pet medalja. Među najtrofejnijim riječkim their selector Dinko Beaković, won five medals. Amongst the
boćarima je i Sando Gulja, s osvojenih devet svjetskih i Rijeka players to have won the most trophies, we find Sandro
europskih medalja od kojih je najvrednija ona iz 2003. - Gulja he has also won nine world and European medals. His
svjetsko zlato u preciznom izbijanju. Sandro Gulja i danas most valuable trophy is the one won in 2003 – a world gold in
je aktivan boćar. tir precision. Sandro Gulja is still today an active bocce player.

Boćanje nije samo muški sport Bocce is not only men’s sport
Iako boćanje slovi za muški sport, sve je više žena stra- even though bocce bowls is considered a men’s sport, every day
stvenih zaljubljenica u boćanje. Boćati su počele najprije there are more and more women, who have become passionate
rekreativno, no ubrzo su osnovale klubove, a danas se i bocce bowl lovers. They started playing bocce for recreation at
službeno natječu u ligaškim natjecanjima. Riječke boća- first but soon founded clubs and today they formally compete
rice imale su uspjeha i na međunarodnim natjecanjima. in league competitions. Rijeka’s bocce players have also been
 54

Ženski boćarski klub Pašac ove je godine osvojio treće successful at international competitions. The Pašac Women’s
mjesto u Europi na završnici klupskih prvakinja Europe. Bocce Club won third place this year in Europe, in the final of
Posebno se u ženskom boćanju pamti 2000. godina kad su the European Club Championship. 2000 is especially remem-
u Pamiersu u Francuskoj Nives Mladenić Martinaš i Lju- bered in women’s bocce, when in Pamiers, in France, Nives
bomira Čargonja postale svjetske prvakinje. Nives Marti- Mladenić Martinaš and Ljubomira Čargonja won the World
naš potom je osvojila još četiri svjetske bronce, a posljed- Championship. Nives Martinaš then won another four bronze
nje dvije oko vrata je stavila prošlog mjeseca na Svjetskom medals, and the last two she put around her neck last month at
prvenstvu u Francuskoj. the World Championship in France.

Rijeka domaćin boćarskih natjecanja Rijeka hosts bocce contests

Rijeka je često bila domaćin međunarodnih boćarskih na- rijeka has often hosted international bocce contests. The
tjecanja. Zadnje je održano u rujnu ove godine kad su na last one took place in September 2010 when, at the World
Svjetskom prvenstvu boćara od 18 do 23 godine ponovno Bocce Players Championship for players of between 18 and
bile najuspješnije domaće mlade snage. Prije toga Rijeka se 23 years of age, younger national players were once again the
još u tri navrata pokazala vrsnim domaćinom najboljim bo- most successful players. Before that Rijeka was a great host
ćarima svijeta i Europe. Prije četiri godine u Rijeci su se na another three times for the best bocce players in Europe and
Europskom prvenstvu okupili najbolji seniori. Domaćini the world. The European Championship in Rijeka brought
svjetskih natjecanja Riječani su bili u dva navrata, junior- together the best seniors four years ago. Rijeka inhabitants
skog 1995. i seniorskog 1997. godine. have been hosts to world contests another two times, the
Junior Championships in 1995 and the Senior in 1997.
Boćanje u školi
Boćati se počinje sve ranije, u klubove se upisuju dječaci i Playing bocce in school
djevojčice predškolske dobi. Rijeka će uskoro postati prvi youngsters start playing bocce at an early age. Pre-school
grad u Hrvatskoj u kojem će se boćanje učiti u školi. Osnov- aged boys and girls enrol at the bocce clubs. Rijeka will soon
na škola Pećine bit će i prva škola sa vlastitim boćalištem, become the first city in Croatia where playing bocce will be
a među slobodnim aktivnostima učenici će moći izabrati included in the school curriculum. The Pećine Elementary
i boćanje. Jog je nastao od preuređenog vanjskog vrta, a u School will be the first school to have its own bocce court, and
njegovu uređenju ujedinili se zaposlenici škole, roditelji i during free activities, pupils will also be able to choose bocce.
učenici. The court was created from the laid out outdoor garden and
its arrangement was provided by a team of school employees,
parents and pupils.
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Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

Prosinac / December 2010

31.12 - 01.01. 31.12 - 01.01.
Doček Nove godine Celebration of New Year’s Eve
Ispratite staru i dočekajte Novu godinu na riječkom Korzu. Say goodbye to the old and welcome the New Year on Rijeka’s
Uživajte u rock glazbi i hitovima grupa “Let 3”, Nene Belana i “Fi- Korzo. Enjoy the rock music and hits played by “Let 3”, Neno
umensa” i “My Budddy Moose”. Pridružite se mnoštvu Riječana u Belan and “Fiumensi” as well as by My Buddy Moose. Join the
zabavi koja traje cijelu noć. numerous Rijeka inhabitants for entertainment lasting throug-
hout the night.

Siječanj / January 2011

29.01. 29.01.
Noć muzeja The Night of Museums
Noć muzeja, ili noć kada muzeji otvaraju svoja vrata posjetitelji- The night of museums, or the night when museums open their
ma do dugo u noć postala je omiljena manifestacija velikih i malih. doors to the visitors until the early hours of the morning has
Ovog puta odvija se 29. siječnja kada besplatno možete zavirite u became a favourite event for both adults and youngsters. This
muzejske riznice uz mnoštvo popratnih zanimljivih sadržaja. time, it will take place on 29th January when you can steal a
look at the museum's thesaurus with numerous accompa-
nying interesting

21.01. 21.01.
Dvorana mladosti – početak karnevala Youth Sports Hall – start of the Carnival
Ovo je dan kojeg se željno isčekuje cijele godine. U Dvorani mla- This is a day that is awaited with great impatience all year., On 21st
dosti na Trsatu, 21. siječnja, ključeve grada preuzimaju maškare, January, the city keys are taken over by masks at the Youth Sports
a bira se i najljepša djevojka koja nosi titulu kraljice riječkog Hall on Trsat and the Rijeka Carnival Queen Pageant also takes
karnevala. place.

22.01. 21.01.
Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre
Hrvatska drama u koprodukciji s HKD Teatrom potpisat će Croatian drama in a co-production with the Teatar Croatian Theatre
dramu “Život lude” Ryûnosuke Akutagawe u režiji i dramatizaciji Association will show the Ryunosuka Akutagawa's drama „Fool's
Davida Doiashvilija, priznatoga gruzijskog redatelja, a premijera Life“, directed and dramatized by David Doiashvili, the eminent
je 22. siječnja 2011. u Hrvatskom narodnom kazalištu Ivana pl. Georgian director and the premiere will take place on 22nd January
Zajca. 2011 in the “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre.
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Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

Veljača / February 2011

26.02. 26.02.
Dječja karnevalska povorka The Children's Carnival Parade
Korzom šeću male maškarice jer se 26. veljače održava Little masks walk along the Korzo because on the 26th Fe-
Dječja karnevalska povorka koja centar Rijeke pretvara bruary the Children’s Carnival Parade is taking place, tran-
u najljepšu bajku. Sudjeluju mališani dječjih vrtića i ško- sforming the centre of Rijeka in the most beautiful fairyta-
la iz Rijeke i okolice. le. Children from kindergartens and elementary schools
from Rijeka and its surroundings take part in the Parade.

12.02. / 25.02 12.02. / 25.02

Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre
Operna sezona riječkog HNK-a donosi na scenu tri premijeru Rijeka's Croatian National Theatre’s opera season brings Verdi’s
Verdijeve opere „La forza del destino“/“Moć sudbine“ i to pod opera”La forza del destino/The Force of Destiny” to the stage
dirigentskim vodstvom Nade Matošević i u režiji Ozrena Prohića. under the leadership of conductor, Nada Matošević and directed
Na programu je 12. veljače. by Ozren Prohić. It will take place on 12th February.

Veliku priču o ljubavi u drami/tragikomediji This great love story in the „Euridice/Euridika“ drama/tragi-
„Euridice“/“Euridika“ američke spisateljice Sarah Ruhl u režiji comedy written by American writer Sarah Ruhl and directed by
Lawrenca Kiirua i produkciji Talijanske drame nikako ne propu- Lawrenca Kiiru in the production of Italian drama must not be
stite pogledati 25. veljače u riječkom kazalištu. missed on 25th February in Rijeka’s theatre.

Ožujak / March 2011

06.03 06.03
Međunarodna karnevalska povorka International Carnival Parade
Još prije sto godina Rijeka je živjela svoj karnevalski život Rijeka was already living its carnival life more intensively than
intenzivnije od bilo kojeg grada u ovom dijelu Europe stoga i ne any other city in this part of Europe even a hundred years ago. So
čudi da je Međunarodna karnevalska povorka na Korzu jedna od it is not strange that the International Carnival Parade on Korzo
najpoznatijih na svijetu. Ovog puta održava se 6. ožujka stoga ne is one of the most famous in the world. This time it will take place
propustite ovaj nezaboravan događaj. on 6th March so do not miss this unforgettable experience.

12.03 12.03
Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre
Filmsku satiru „Diskretni šarm buržoazije“ koja nemilosrdno The “Discrete Bourgeoisie Charm” film satire cruelly critici-
kritizira licemjerje i monstruozne moralne zločine buržoaskih ses hypocrisy and the monstrous moral crimes of bourgeoisie
tendencija, u plesne će korake, na glazbu Marjana Nećaka, preto- tendencies and “the magician of the dance scene” Staša Zurovac,
čiti „čarobnjak plesne scene“ Staša Zurovac. Dođite na premijeru transforms it into dance steps with music by Marjan Nećak.
U HNK Ivana pl. Zajca 12. ožujka 2011. Come to the premiere on 12th March 2011 in the "Ivan pl.
Zajc“Croatian National Theatre.
24.03.-31.03
Sajmovi u Dvorani mladosti 24.03.-31.03
U Dvorani mladosti na Trsatu sezona sajmova kreće s početkom Fairs at the Youth Sports Hall
proljeća. Od 24. ožujka održava se u isto vrijeme pet sajmova: With the beginning of spring, the fair season also starts in the Yo-
Dom i tehnika, Zeleno i plavo, Lov i ribolov, Hrvatski obrtnici tu- uth Sports Hall on Trsat. From 24th March five fairs will be held
rizmu i Auto sajam. Između ostalog, pronaći ćete bogatu ponudu at the same time: the Home and Technique fair, the Green and
autohtonih proizvoda. Blue fair, the Hunting and Fishing fair, the Croatian Craftsmen
for Tourism and the Auto Fair. As well as this, you will find a rich
offer of locally produced products.
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Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

Travanj / April 2011

08.04. / 13.04. 08.04. / 13.04.
Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre
U programu manifestacije "KamovFest" Balet HNK Ivana pl. The “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre Ballet will parti-
Zajca sudjelovat će po drugi put. “Blue Butterfly” bit će autor- cipate in the “KamovFest” event program for the second time.
sko djelo članova riječkog Baleta.Većina glazbe u predstavi bit “Blue Butterfly” will be the Rijeka Ballet dramatist’s work of art.
će autorske skladbe u gypsy swing stilu, a dijelovi predstave bit Much of the music in the show will be author compositions in the
će inspirirani burnim životom francuskog gitarista i skladatelja Gypsy swing style and some parts of the show will be inspired by
Djanga Reinharda. Premijera je 8. travnja. the turbulent life of Djang Reinhard, the French guitar player and
composer. The premier is on 8th April.
S velikim nestrpljenjem očekuje se i praizvedba opere za velike i
male „Šuma Striborova“ inspirirana istoimenim djelom poznate The premiere of the opera for both adults and young people is
hrvatske spisateljice Ivane Brlić- Mažuranić. „Šuma Stribo- awaited with great impatience, "Stribor’s Forest", inspired by the
rova“ ostvarit će se u koprodukciji sa zagrebačkim Muzičkim book of the same name, written by Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, famous
biennalom, a premijera je na programu 13. travnja u riječkom Croatian writer. “Stribor’s Forest” will be created in a co-produc-
kazalištu. tion with Zagreb’s Musical Biennale and the premiere is on the
program for 13th April at the Rijeka’s theatre.
11.04 - 15.04.
Festival znanosti 11.04 - 15.04.
Devetu godinu za redom u Rijeci se odvija Festival znanosti. Science Festival
Od 11. do 15. travnja nudi se program prepun događanja u The Science Festival will take place in Rijeka for the ninth year
vidu radionica, predavanja, izložbi, predstavljanja, projekcija in a row. From 11th until 15th April a rich program of events is
i debata. O popularnosti ove manifestacije dovoljno govori offered such as workshops, lectures, exhibitions, presentations,
podatak da ju je u prvih osam godina posjetilo gotovo 45 tisuća projections and debates. Data from the last eight years of the
građana. event shows that it was visited by 45 thousand citizens, which is
proof enough of its popularity.

Svibanj / May 2011

03.05 - 10.05.
Festival malih scena
Zahvaljujući Festivalu malih scena, koji se održava od 3. svibnja u Hrvatskom
kulturnom domu na Sušaku, svakog prvog tjedna u svibnju Rijeka postaje kul-
turno središte Hrvatske koje okuplja poklonike kazališne umjetnosti. Ovaj fe-
stival međunarodnog karaktera promiče različitost i multikulturalnost.

03.05 - 10.05.
Small Scenes Festival
Thanks to the Small Scenes Festival that takes place on 3rd May in the Cro-
atian Cultural Centre on Sušak - every first week in May, Rijeka becomes the
Croatian cultural centre bringing together admirers of theatre art. This inter-
national festival promotes diversity and multiculturalism.

11.05 - 15.05. 11.05 - 15.05.

Bookfest Bookfest
Na Gatu Karoline riječke, od 11. do 15. svibnja, održat će se The international book fair known as "Bookfest" will take place
međunarodni sajam knjiga „Bookfest“. Uz sudjelovanje brojnih from 11th until 15th May, on the Karolina riječka Pier. With the
nakladnika i autora, posjetitelji mogu pronaći knjigu za sebe participation of numerous publishers and authors, visitors can find
između nekoliko tisuća naslova. a book for themselves from amongst the several thousand titles.

14.05 / 21.05. 14.05 / 21.05.

Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre
U riječkom kazalištu 14. svibnja pogledajte premijeru predsta- On 14th May, come and see the premiere of the Italian drama show
ve Talijanske drame „Sessomatto/“Ludi seks“ kojoj je uporište “Sesso matto/Crazy Sex” at Rijeka’s theatre based on the famous
glasoviti istoimeni film Dina Risija. Dino Risi film of the same name.

Riječka Opera je na program uvrstila iznimno glazbeno djelo u For the end of the season, Rijeka’s Opera has included eminent mu-
koncertnom obliku. Riječ je o jednoj od najvažnjih Donizettijevih sical works in the program in the form of a concert. We are talking
opera „Anni Boleni“ kojom će ravnati svjetski proslavljeni mae- about one of the most important Donizetti operas under the name
stro Nikša Bareza. To vrhunsko djelo na programu je premijerno "Anni Boleni“ which will be conducted by world famous maestro,
21. svibnja u HNK Ivana pl. Zajca. Nikša Bareza. The premiere of this excellent work is programmed
for 21st May at the "Ivan pl. Zajc" Croatian National Theatre.
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Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

Hrvatsko Narodno Kazalište Ivan pl. Zajc / "Ivan pl. Zajc" Croatian National Theatre

Predstave koje morate pogledati Shows you must see

Čak 12 premijernih predstava povezanih motivom sudbine kao in- during the season 2010/2011 when the 125th anniversary of
dividulane i kolektivne kategorije bit će izvedeno u riječkom Hrvat- the opening of Rijeka’s theatre building , at the “Ivan pl. Zajc”
skom narodnom kazalištu Ivana pl. Zajca u sezoni 2010./2011. u ko- Croatian National Theatre will be celebrated, 12 premiere shows
joj se obilježava i 125. godina otvorenja zgrade riječkoga Kazališta. connected to the theme of destiny as an individual and collec-
Nakon tri već uprizorena naslova, „Opere za tri groša“, „Cirkusa tive category will be performed.
Destetika“ i „Michelstaedtera“ čeka nas jednako atraktivan i uz- Following the three titles “Opera for Three Pennies”, “Deste-
budljiv drugi dio sezone. tika Circus” and “Michelstaedter” that have already been seen,
Hrvatska drama u koprodukciji s HKD Teatrom potpisat će dra- an equally attractive and exciting second part of the season is
mu „Život lude“ Ryûnosuke Akutagawe, u režiji i dramatizaciji expected.
Davida Doiashvilija, priznatoga gruzijskoga redatelja, a premi- Croatian drama in the co-production with the Teatar Croatian
jera će biti održana 22. siječnja 2011. Autobiografski je to skup Theatre Association will show the Ryunosuke Akutagawa's
reminiscencija, opservacija i ideja o čovjeku koji se oprašta sa drama „Fool's Life“, directed and dramatized by David Doi-
životom. Japanski pisac Akutagawa široj je javnosti postao po- ashvili, the eminent Georgian director and the premiere will
znat nakon što su njegove priče „U lugu“ i „Rashômon“ doživjele take place on 22nd January 2011. This is an autobiographical
maestralnu ekranizaciju u filmu slavnog Akire Kurosawe. collection of reminiscences, observations and ideas about a
man bidding goodbye to his life. The Japanese writer, Akuta-
Film kao inspiracija talijanskoj drami i baletu gawa became famous to the wider public after his stories „In
Predstavi Talijanske drame „Sessomatto/“Ludi seks“ upori- a Grove“ and „Rashômon“ were filmed by the famous Akira
šte je glasoviti istoimeni film Dina Risija (1973.) kao i baletnoj Kurosawa.

Film as inpiration for italian drama and ballet

the Italian drama show “Sesso matto/Crazy Sex” is based on
the famous Dino Risi (1973) film of the same name and the
“Discrete Bourgeoisie Charm” ballet show was inspired by the
genial film of the same name directed by Spanish director, Luis
Buñuel.
Moving Italian director, Paola Galassi, will be in charge of
crazy sex and will find herself in front of a challenge of di-
recting a variety of sexual events, chosen amongst the most
bizarre, such as the Sicilian widow who marries the man who
had ordered the assassination of her husband for revenge.
This can be seen in the premier that will take place on 14th
May 2011.
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Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

predstavi „Diskretni šarm buržoazije“ inspiriranoj istoimenim

genijalnim filmom španjolskoga redatelja Luisa Buñuela.
Ludim će se seksom baviti britka talijanska redateljica Paola Ga-
lassi koja će se naći pred izazovom režiranja različitih seksual-
nih manifestacija, odabranih i među onim najbizarnijim, poput
sicilijanske udovice koja se iz osvete udaje za čovjeka koji je dao
ubiti njezina muža, a što će se moći pogledati na premijeri koja
će biti upriličena 14. svibnja 2011.
Filmsku satiru „Diskretni šarm buržoazije“ koja nemilosrdno kri-
tizira licemjerje i monstruozne moralne zločine buržoaskih ten-
dencija, u plesne će korake, na glazbu Marjana Nećaka, pretočiti
„čarobnjak plesne scene“ Staša Zurovac. Dođite na premijeru 12.
ožujka 2011.

„Šuma Striborova“ Ivane Brlić Mažuranić kao opera za

velike i male
Operna sezona riječkog HNK-a donosi na scenu tri premijere. The “Discrete Bourgeoisie Charm” film satire cruelly criticises
Već u veljači gledat će se Verdijeva opera „La forza del destino/ hypocrisy and monstrous moral crimes of bourgeoisie ten-
Moć sudbine“ i to pod dirigentskim vodstvom Nade Matošević dencies and “the magician of the dance scene” Staša Zurovac,
i u režiji Ozrena Prohića. U vodećim ulogama, ulozi Donne Le- transforms it into dance steps with music by Marjan Nećak.
onore gledat ćemo dvije sjajne sopranistice, gostujuću Vedra- Come to the premiere on 12th March 2011.
nu Šimić i solisticu riječke Opere Olgu Kaminsku. U kvalitetu
nove riječke produkcije možete se uvjeriti 12. veljače 2011. S Ivana Brlić Mažuranić’s “Stribor’s Forest”
velikim nestrpljenjem očekuje se i praizvedba opere za velike i as opera for both adults and young people
male „Šuma Striborova“ inspirirana istoimenim djelom Ivane the Rijeka Croatian National Theatre’s opera season brings
Brlić-Mažuranić, djelom koje je intrigiralo, razbuđivalo maštu three premiers to the stage. Already in February you will be
i interpretacije od njezina vremena do danas. Glazbu sklada able to see Verdi’s opera”La forza del destino/The Force of
mladi hrvatski kompozitor Ivan Josip Skender, za libreto i sce- Destiny” under the leadership of conductor, Nada Matošević
narij zaslužan je Ozren Prohić ujedno i redatelj, a dirigentica je and directed by Ozren Prohić. Principal roles for Donna Le-
maestra Nada Matošević. „Šuma Striborova“ bit će ostvarena u onora will be played by two excellent soprano singers, guest
koprodukciji sa zagrebačkim Muzičkim biennalom, a premijera Vedrana Šimić and the Rijeka Opera's soloist, Olga Kaminska.
je na programu 13. travnja. You can ascertain the quality of the Rijeka production on 12th
Za kraj sezone, riječka Opera odlučila je na program uvrstiti February 2011. The premiere of the opera for both adults and
iznimno glazbeno djelo u koncertnom obliku. Riječ je o jednoj young people is expected with great impatience, "Stribor’s For-
od najvažnjih Donizettijevih opera „Anni Boleni“ kojom će rav- est", inspired by the book of the same name, written by Ivana
nati svjetski proslavljeni maestro Nikša Bareza. To vrhunsko Brlić-Mažuranić, the book intrigued and awakened the im-
djelo na programu je premijerno 21. svibnja. agination and interpretations from when it was written until
the present day. The music is composed by young Croatian
U programu manifestacije "KamovFest", Balet HNK Ivana pl.
composer, Ivan Josip Skender, the director Ozren Prohić is in
Zajca sudjelovat će po drugi put. “Blue Butterfly” bit će autor-
charge of the libretto and script and the conductor is maestro,
sko djelo članova riječkoga Baleta.Većina glazbe u predstavi bit
Nada Matošević. “Stribor’s Forest” will be created in a co-pro-
će autorske skladbe u ciganskom swing stilu, a dijelovi predstave
duction with Zagreb’s Musical Biennale and the premiere is on
bit će inspirirani burnim životom francuskoga gitarista i sklada-
the program for 13th April.
telja, Djanga Reinharda. Premijera je 8. travnja 2011.
For the end of the season, Rijeka’s Opera has decided to include
Veliku priču o ljubavi u drami/tragikomediji „Euridice/Euridika“
eminent musical works of art in in the program in the form
američke spisateljice Sarah Ruhl u režiji Lawrenca Kiirua i produkci-
of a concert. We are talking about one of the most important
ji Talijanske drame nikako ne propustite pogledati 25. veljače 2011.
Donizetti operas called "Anni Boleni“ which will be conducted
by world famous maestro, Nikša Bareza. The premiere of this
excellent work of art is programmed for 21st May.
The “Ivan pl. Zajc” Croatian National Theatre Ballet will par-
ticipate in the “KamovFest” event program for the second time.
“Blue Butterfly” will be the Rijeka Ballet dramatist’s work of
art. Much of the music in the show will be author compositions
in the Gypsy swing style and some parts of the show will be in-
spired by the turbulent life of Djang Reinhard, French guitar
player and composer. The premier is on 8th April 2011.
The great love story of the „Euridice/Euridika“ drama/tragi-
comedy, written by American writer Sarah Ruhl and directed
by Lawrenca Kiiru in the production of an Italian drama must
not be missed on 25th February 2011.
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Mozaik - događanja / Mosaic - events

Lipanj / June 2011

09.06. - 11.06.
Regata Fiumanka
Dani kada se more ispred Rijeke bijeli od jedara su od 9. do 11.
lipnja u vrijeme održavanja međunarodne jedriličarske regate
Fiumanke. Lanjski, rekordan broj sudionika dostigao je broj-
ku od 191 posade što predstavlja svojevrsni izazov ovogodiš-
njoj, 12. po redu regati.

09.06. - 11.06.
Fiumanka Regatta
Days when the sea in front of Rijeka is all white because of the
number of sails will this year take place from 9th until 11th
June during the Fiumanka International Sailing Regatta. Last
year’s record number of participants reached 191 crew mem-
bers which represents a kind of challenge for this years' 12th
regatta.

Festival elektronske glazbe Hartera Hartera Festival of Electronic Music

U ostacima nekad slavne tvornice papira već se sedam godina Within the remains of the, once famous, paper factory, in mid June,
sredinom lipnja organizira festival vrhunskih izvođača elektron- for the seventh year in a row, a festival of excellent performers of
ske glazbe. electronic music is being organized. Numerous, eminent and world
Brojna, zvučna i svjetski poznata imena, dojmljive pozornice, famous names, impressive stages, flows of young people...make this
rijeke mladih ljudi...čine ovaj festival nezaobilaznim događajem festival an unavoidable experience on the map of regional events.
na karti regionalnih zbivanja.
13.06 - 15.06.
13.06 - 15.06. St. Vitus Days
Dani sv. Vida St. Vitus Days or the Days of the City of Rijeka are celebrated from
Dani sv. Vida ili Dani Grada Rijeke slave se od 13. do 15. lipnja. U 13th until 15th June. Processions, numerous concerts, exhibitions
slavu zaštitnika organiziraju se procesije, brojni koncerti, izložbe, and shows as well as sporting events are organized for the festival of
predstave, te sportske manifestacije. U svakom kutku grada pro- the patron saint. In every corner of the city you will be able to find a
naći ćete zabavu za sebe. way of entertainment for yourselves.

Riječke ljetne noći Rijeka Summer Nights

Riječke ljetne noći svake godine Every year Rijeka Summer Nights
publici ponude nova iznenađenja, od offers its public new surprises, from
spektakularnog otvaranja o kojem se the spectacular opening about which
još dugo govori, do bogatog progra- people talk long afterwards, to a rich
ma predstava i koncerata koje se show and concert program that take
odvijaju na različitim, za kulturni place at different times, as far as the
program, nesvakidašnjim lokacijama cultural programme is concerned
grada. and in unusual city locations.

Ljeto na Gradini - Trsat Summer at Gradina - Trsat

Riječko ljeto počinje i manifestaci- Rijeka's summer begins with the
jom Ljeto na gradini koja se održava Summer at Gradina event that takes
u jednom od najljepših gradskih place in one of the most beautiful
ambijenata, na Trsatskoj gradini. city environments, at the Trsat
Ova kulturno-zabavna manifestaci- Castle. This cultural and entertai-
ja obiluje kvalitetnim koncertima, ning event is full of quality concerts,
kazališnim predstavama i projek- theatre shows and film projections
cijama filmova, te ljetne večeri čini and makes the summer nights even
još čarobnijima. more magical.
 Novi grad / New city Piše / Written by: Andrea Bralić Marić Fotografije / Photos: Medico Promotivni članak/PR article

Značajna obljetnica Poliklinike An important anniversary for

Medico, pokretača privatne Medico Policlinic, the originator
zdravstvene skrbi u Hrvatskoj of private medical care in Croatia

Pola milijuna pregleda u 20 godina

Half a Million Examinations in 20 years
Pola milijuna pregleda u dvadeset godina! Upravo toliko Half a million examinations in twenty years! This is the number
obavila je Poliklinika Medico čiji stručni tim je već puna of examinations carried out by Medico Policlinic which, with
dva desetljeća na usluzi brojnim Riječanima i stanovnicima its team of experts, has been providing services for two whole
Primorsko-goranske i susjednih regija. Kad je 1990. godine decades for the numerous inhabitants of Rijeka and the County
započela s radom kao druga privatna zdravstvena ustanova of Primorje and Gorski kotar as well as to those from neighbou-
u Hrvatskoj, vizija njezinog utemeljitelja, prim. dr. Milana ring regions. When it began its work in 1990 as the second priva-
Blaževića bila je da Medico postane mjestom na kojem će te medical institute in Croatia, the vision of its founder, Consul-
građani u najkraćem mogućem roku dobiti odgovarajuću tant Doctor of Medicine, Milan Blažević, was that the Medico
zdravstvenu skrb. U tim počecima privatne prakse pa sve would become a place where local inhabitants would receive
do danas Medico opravdava svoj slogan "U jednom danu, na appropriate medical care in shortest possible time. Both at the
jednome mjestu". beginning of private practice and still today, Medico has justifi-
ed its slogan “In a single
day, in a single place”.
In the year it celebra-
ted its second birthday,
the policlinic moved to
a modern and attracti-
ve building in the heart
of Rijeka, in Agatićeva
Street. When we add that
in this new medical com-
plex 120 million kunas
was invested, together
 63

U godini u kojoj je slavila svoj drugi okrugli rođendan, po- with the experience, expertise and knowledge of around fifty
liklinika je preselila u modernu, atraktivnu zgradu u Aga- employees, the most modern diagnostic equipment and an in-
tićevoj ulici, u samom centru Rijeke. Kada se činjenici da dividual approach, then we can surely count on excellent medi-
je u novi zdravstveni kompleks uloženo 120 milijuna kuna cal service here.
pridoda iskustvo, stručnost i znanje pedesetak zaposlenika,
Since November 2007, the Policlinic’s owner has been the Ba-
najmodernija dijagnostička oprema i individualan pristup,
sler osiguranje, Zagreb Insurance Company that precisely fo-
onda se sa sigurnošću može računati na vrhunsku medicin-
llowing Rijeka’s Medico example, continually builds high qua-
sku uslugu.
lity standards within its health care. The new Medico extends
Od studenog 2007.godine vlasnik Poliklinike je Basler osi- over three floors over the 2,200 square metres, the possibilities
guranje Zagreb koje upravo na primjeru riječkog Medica of numerous specialized examinations, simple operations and
gradi visoko kvalitetne standarde u zdravstvu. Novi Medico one-day hospitalization within the daily hospital have been
prostire se na tri kata, gdje se na 2.200 četvornih metara pa- provided for patients. On the policlinic’s first floor are the labo-
cijentima pruža mogućnost obavljanja brojnih specijalistič- ratory and digital radiology diagnostics unit, using equipment
kih pregleda, jednostavnijih operativnih zahvata i jednod- such as magnetic resonance imaging, CT, mammograms and
nevne hospitalizacije u okviru dnevne bolnice. Na prvom X-ray generators. It is important to point out that during the
katu poliklinike nalaze se laboratorij i digitalna radiološka furnishing of the area where the radiography equipment is lo-
dijagnostika poput magnetske rezonance, CT-a, mamogra- cated; the highest safety conditions for the closer and wider
fa i rendgen uređaja. Valja naglasiti da su prilikom uređenja environment have been respected together with a completely
prostora u kojima se nalazi radiološka oprema poštovani safe system against radiation, designed by the Ruđer Bošković
svi uvjeti zaštite na neposrednu i širu okolinu, a kompletan Institute.
sustav zaštite od zračenja je projektiran u Institutu Ruđer
Specialized consulting rooms are located on the second floor of
Bošković.
the building where we can find consulting rooms for ophthal-
Specijalističke ordinacije smještene su na drugom katu mology, cardiology with ergometry, densinometry, pulmonolo-
zgrade na kojem se nalaze okulistika, kardiologija s ergo- gy, neurology, otorhinolaryngology, nephrology, orthopaedics
metrijom, dezintometrija, pulmologija, neurologija, oto- and dermatology with lasers. There are also two gynaecology
rinolaringologija, nefrologija, ortopedija i dermatologija consulting rooms here as well as a room for breast ultrasound
s prostorima za laser. Tu su i dvije ginekološke ordinacije that are separated from the other consulting rooms and whi-
i ordinacija za ultrazvuk dojke koje su odvojene od ostalih ch have their own waiting room in order to maintain patient
ordinacija te imaju vlastitu čekaonicu kako bi se pacijenti- privacy.
cama omogućila privatnost.
On the third floor are the gastroenterology and urology consul-
Na trećem katu nalaze se ordinacije gastroenterologije i ting rooms as well as the policlinic’s administration. Here we
urologije te uprava poliklinike, a tu je i operacijski blok koji can also find the surgical block dedicated to carrying out mini-
je namijenjen izvođenju minimalno invazivnih zahvata. mally invasive surgeries.
Operacijski blok s dnevnom bolnicom prostire se na 170 če- The surgical block with its day hospital extends over 170 square
tvornih metara, a uz dvije operacijske dvorane pacijentima metres, and besides the two operating rooms, patients have se-
je na raspolaganju i sedam kreveta čime im je omogućena ven beds at their disposal providing one-day hospitalization.
hospitalizacija u trajanju do jednog dana.
Medico Policlinic regularly employs 50 members of staff with
Poliklinika Medico stalno zapošljava 50 djelatnika od čega 15 doctors, a medical biochemistry engineer, 12 nurses, five
15 liječnika, jednog inženjera medicinske biokemije, 12 medical radiology engineers, 4 laboratory technicians and ad-
medicinskih sestara, pet inženjera medicinske radiologije, ministrative personnel. Besides these employees, another 30
četiri laboranata, te administrativno osoblje, a uz njih stal- doctors with different specialisations regularly collaborate with
no surađuje s 30-ak liječnika raznih specijalnosti iz javnih i Medico all coming from both public and private institutes thus
privatnih ustanova, što upotpunjuje pružene usluge. completing the services provided.
64
Izložba / Exhibition Piše / Written by: Lidija Šušak Fotografije / Photos: Ivo Matulić

Vlado Kristl, Chat / Clone, 1999.

© Madeleine Kristl, ulje na platnu/oil on canvas,
70 x 100 cm, fotografija/photo: Matthieu Frison

Vlado Kristl
prešućivani an unrevealed
genijalac genius and
i ekscentrik eccentric
 65

Oko osamdeset likovnih radova istaknutoga hrvatskog umjet-

nika Vlade Kristla od kojih većina do sada nije predstavljana u
Hrvatskoj, Riječani će moći vidjeti na izložbi koja se 16. prosin-
ca ove godine otvara u Muzeju moderne i suvremene umjetno-
sti u Rijeci. Osim autorova slikarskog opusa i nezaobilaznih fil-
mova, bit će izložene i njegove knjige, vizualna poezija, pisma,
objekti, kolaži, fotografije i arhivska dokumentacija. Kristlova
izložba s nestrpljenjem se iščekuju još od početka ove godine
kada je proglašena najzanimljivijom izložbom u Hrvatskoj
2010. godine. Odbrojavanje se bliži kraju, sredina prosinca je
tu, a s Vladom Kristlom ući ćemo i u 2011. godinu.

Po prvi puta u Hrvatskoj

Riječani će imati tu privilegiju i prvi u Hrvatskoj moći uživati
u velikoj izložbi ovog autora koja predstavlja Kristlov opus
u vlasništvu Jelene, Madelene i Pepea Kristla, te Carole Re-
gnier. Kristlova filmografija i bibliografija dobro je poznata
za razliku od slikarstva, posebice nakon 1962. godine kada
Kristl napušta Hrvatsku. Na riječkoj izložbi po prvi put bit
će predstavljeni radovi iz njegova slikarskog opusa nastalog
u razdoblju od 1959. do 2004. godine. Izložbu prati dvojezič-
ni katalog s tekstovima Mathisa Mühlinga, Thomasa Bran-
dlmeiera i Marine Viculin.

Tko je Vlado Kristl

Vlado Kristl rođen je 1923.godine u Zagrebu i jedan je od oče-
va hrvatske apstrakcije. Smatraju ga jednim od najsvestrani- Vlado Kristl, Holderlin
jih i najslobodnijih hrvatskih umjetnika. Bio je slikar, pjesnik in Jena, In der Druckerei
1991. © Dieter Reifarth
i sveučilišni profesor na Visokoj školi likovnih umjetnosti u

Vlado Kristl, Partei der Intelligenz, 1991.

Around eighty works of art by the eminent Croatian artist,
© Dieter Reifarth, ulje na platnu/oil on canvas,
Vlado Kristl, of which the majority have not been seen be- 100 x 70 cm, fotografija/photo: Dieter Reifarth
fore, will be presented in Croatia giving inhabitants of Ri-
jeka the possibility of enjoying them. The exhibition will
open on 16th December at the Museum of Modern and Con-
temporary Art in Rijeka. Besides the author’s painting opus
and his inevitable films, his books and visual poetry, letters,
objects, collages, photographs and archive documentation
will also be on show. Kristl’s exhibition has eagerly been
awaited since the beginning of this year and has been pro-
claimed the most interesting exhibition in Croatia in 2010.
The countdown is almost over, mid December is fast ap-
proaching; we will enter the New Year with Vlado Kristl.

For the first time in Croatia

Rijeka’s inhabitants will have that privilege and for the
first time in Croatia will be able to enjoy the large exhi-
bition of this author representing Kristl’s opus owned by
Jelena, Madeleine and Pepe Kristl as well as Carol Reg-
nier. Kristl’s filmography and bibliography is well known
compared to his paintings, especially after 1962 when
Kristl abandoned Croatia. Works from his painting opus
during the period from 1959 until 2004 will be presented
for the first times at the Rijeka exhibition. The exhibition
is accompanied by a bilingual catalogue and texts writ-
ten by Mathis Mühling, Thomas Brandlmeier and Marina
Viculin.
 66

Hamburgu, te autor nagrađivanih cr- prestaje baviti slikarstvom. 1963. iz Za- Who is Vlado Kristl
tanih filmova. Jedan je od osnivača greba odlazi s obećanjem da se više ni- Vlado Kristl was born in 1923 in
avangardne umjetničke grupe EXAT 51. kada neće vratiti u taj grad, što se una- Zagreb and is one of the creators of
Istodobno ekscentrik, politički disident, toč nagovorima prijatelja i ostvarilo. Croatian abstract. He is considered
pustolov i zagovornik slobode. Dok je Umro je u Münchenu 2004. godine. one of the most omniscient and
u bivšoj državi bio često prešućivan, u liberal Croatian artists. He was a
Njemačkoj u kojoj je živio 40 godina, Najbolja juha, najbolja juha
painter, poet and university profes-
slavljen je i hvaljen kao veliki umjetnik. Život i umjetnički opus Vlade Kristla sor at the Academy of Applied Arts
prije dvije godine našao se i na kaza- in Hamburg and author of prize
Prva izložba u kokošinjcu lišnim daskama. Inspiriran životom winning cartoons. One of the found-
Kristl je slikarstvo studirao na Akade- umjetnika buntovnika, Rene Med- ers of the vanguard EXAT 51 artistic
miji likovnih umjetnosti u Zagrebu. vešek je režirao predstavu "Najbolja group and at the same time an ec-
U drugom svjetskom ratu pridružio juha, najbolja juha". S obzirom da je centric, political dissident, adven-
se partizanima, no nakon rata postaje sam Kristl u zbirci pjesama "Pet bijelih turer and freedom pleader. Whilst
protivnik režima. Lutao je svijetom i stepenica" Rijeku i Trsat opjevao kao he was often hidden in the former
živio u Europi i Čileu. U Zagreb se vra- prostore njegova najsretnijega razdo- state, in Germany where he lived
ća krajem 50-tih i počinje raditi na cr- blja, mjesto posthumne retrospektive for 40 years, he was celebrated and
tanom filmu. No, ubrzo ponovno odlazi u MMSU-u ovog velikog europskog lauded as a great artist.
iz zemlje, u München gdje objavljuje umjetnika, a kod nas još nedovoljno
nekoliko knjiga, a istovremeno se ne istraženog, opravdano je. First exhibition
in the hen house
Vlado Kristl, Julia, 1999. kristl studied painting at the Acad-
© Madeleine Kristl, ulje emy of Applied Arts in Zagreb. In
na platnu/oil on canvas,
the Second World War he joined the
100 x 70cm, fotografija
/photo: Matthieu Frison Partisans army but after the war be-
came an opponent of the regime. He
wandered around the world and lived
both in Europe and Chile. He came
back to Zagreb at the end of 1950s
and began working on cartoons. But
soon after he left the country again
and went to Munich where he pub-
lished several books and at the same
time continued his painting. In 1963
he left Zagreb promising never to re-
turn again to the city which, in spite
of his friends’ persuasion, he accom-
plished. He died in Munich in 2004.

Best soup, best soup

Vlado Kristl’s life and artistic opus
became part of theatre two years
ago. Inspired by the artist and
rebel’s life, Rene Medvešek directed
the show called Najbolja juha, naj-
bolja juha (Best Soup, Best Soup).
As Kristl described Rijeka and Trsat
as locations of the happiest period
of his life in his collection of poetry
Pet bijelih stepenica (Five White
Steps), the location of this posthu-
mous retrospective in the Museum
of Modern and Contemporary Art
for this great European artist about
whom still not enough research has
been done in Croatia, is more than
justified.
 68
Piše / Written by: Barbara Grabušić Fotografije / Photos: fotoarhive Mladena
Tako je nekad bilo / This is how it once was Urema i Vinka Antića/ Mladen Urem and Vinko Antic Archive

Zanimljivost koju A curiosity which is

rijetki znaju: u Rijeci rarely known: In Rijeka
možete vidjeti pojas za you can see the Life
spašavanje s Titanika -jacket from Titanic

Nijemi svjedok
najpoznatije
katastrofe
20. stoljeća
A silent witness
to the most
famous catastrophe
of 20th century
Pojas može biti primjerice biljni, vegetacijski, crni ili onaj koji There are many types of belt. It can be used in regard to vege-
osigurava ženinu vjernost tzv. pojas nevinosti ili pak pojas za tation, a black belt in karate or the one that ensures women's
spašavanje, pomorcima poznat kao life-jacket. A upravo o tom fidelity - the so called chastity belt or a belt for saving people’s
potonjem pomagalu od nepropusnoga platna koje omogućuje lives, known amongst seamen as a life-jacket. And is precise-
održavanje na površini vode i sprječava utapljanje želimo pisa- ly about this one that we want to write about - made of an im-
ti. Vjerovali ili ne, status vrijedne umjetnine kolekcionarskog permeable material allowing it to float on the water’s surface
značaja ima pojas za spašavanje koji se s iznimnom pažnjom and preventing people from drowning. Believe it or not, the
čuva u riječkom Pomorskom i povijesnom muzeju hrvatsko- life-jacket that is being carefully guarded in the Rijeka Mari-
ga primorja. Da ne bude zabune, ovdje nije riječ o bilo kakvom time and Historical Museum of the Croatian Littoral has the
pojasu za spašavanje već jednom od pet postojećih nijemih status of a valuable work of art and is an important collector’s
svjedoka legendarne pomorske katastrofe 20. stoljeća – one piece. Not to be confusing, we are not talking about any life-
o potonuću Titanica. Mogućnost da neki prsluk s Titanica sti- jacket, but about one of the five existing silent witnesses of
gne do Rijeke zapravo je vrlo realna jer je Carpathija pomorske the legendary sea catastrophe of 20th century – the sinking
kompanije Cunard Line bila prvi brod koji je 15. travnja 1912. of the Titanic. The possibility that a life-jacket from Titanic
has arrived in Rijeka is actually very real as the Cunrad Line's
Carpathia transatlantic passenger steamship was the first
one that, on 15th April 1912 at 4 am, was at the scene of acci-
dent, and its final destination was Rijeka, namely, the Port of
Rijeka from which the same ship, let's point out, had been de-
parting for years on its trips to America. “Nobody knows any-
thing about the destiny of the life-jackets after the Carpathia
arrived in New York. But it is known that a large number of
these life-jackets were just thrown on top of a pile on the deck
and it probably remained there. There is a famous scene from
the short film recorded on the Carpathia’s deck one day after
it arrived in New York, where a few of the surviving sailors
from the Titanic posed in their life-jackets, smiling in front
of the cameras…” writes the author of the book “TITANIC,
Croatians amongst the Century’s Catastrophe”, the famous
 69

godine u četiri sata ujutro bilo na mjestu nesreće, a čije je ko- titanicologist Slobodan Novković who, in June 1999, with his
načno odredište bila Rijeka, odnosno riječka luka iz koje je, na- Swiss colleague, Günter Bälbler, during preparations for the
glasimo, godinama polazio na svoja putovanja prema Americi. writing of the same book, visited the Rijeka Maritime and
„O sudbini spasilačkih prsluka nakon dolaska Carpathije u Historical Museum of Croatian Littoral.
New York ne zna se ništa. No zna se da je veliki broj tih prsluka
bio nabacan na jednu hrpu na palubi i da je na brodu vjerojatno Crucial meeting
i ostao. Poznata je scena iz kratkog filma, snimljenog na palu- Thanks to this visit or the meeting with the Rijeka Museum
bi Carpathije dan nakon dolaska u New York, u kojoj nekoliko custodian, Nikša Mendeš, the secret of the museum object
preživjelih mornara s Titanica pozira u prslucima, smješeći se registered under the number 92 has been revealed "There,
pred kamerama....“ piše autor knjige „TITANIC Hrvati u kata- on the desk, by some documents, photos and copies we saw
strofi stoljeća“ poznati „titanikolog“ Slobodan Novković koji the life-jacket as well. That was it! As long-time titanicolo-
je u lipnju 1999. godine sa švicarskim kolegom Günterom Bäl- gists we realized at first sight that it was a life-jacket from
blerom, u sklopu pripreme za pisanje te knjige posjetio riječki the Titanic”, remembers Slobodan Novković and adds: “The
Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskoga primorja. mixture of shock, surprise and discredit I felt in that moment
cannot be described. The life-jacket was no longer in a good
Presudni susret state and it was rather damaged but it lay here in front of us...
Zahvaljujući tom posjetu odnosno susretu s kustosom riječko- after nine decades of oblivion.” Through detailed exami-
ga muzeja, Nikšom Mendešem, otkrivena je tajna muzejskoga nation of the similarities it has with other life-jackets from
predmeta pod inventarnim brojem 92. „Tamo smo na stolu the Titanic that have been found and preserved around the
pored nekoliko dokumenata, slika i kopija ugledali i spasilački world, and by involving Mr Herman Söldner from Germany
prsluk. To je bilo to! Kao dugogodišnji „titanikolozi“ na prvi smo who has been researching events connected to the Titanic
pogled shvatili da je to bio spasilački prsluk s Titanica“, prisje- and the Carpathia as well as the list of crew members on both
ća se Slobodan Novković koji dodaje: “Mješavinu šoka, iznena- ships, the authenticity of the Rijeka life-jacket has been de-
đenja i nevjerice koju sam u tom trenutku osjetio, uopće se ne fined and the identity of the person who brought it to Rijeka
može opisati. Spa-
silački prsluk nije
više bio u najboljem
stanju i poprilično
je propao, ali je le-
žao tu pred nama...
nakon devet deset­
ljeća zaborava.“
De­talj­nim prouča-
vanjem sličnosti s
drugim, u svijetu
pro­nađenim saču-
vanim pojasevima s Titanica te angažiranjem Hermana Söl- has also been revealed. It was seaman Josip Car, a member of
dnera iz Njemačke koji je više godina proučavao događanja ve- the crew on the Carpathia who, after coming back from New
zana uz Titanic i Carpathiju kao i popise posada obaju brodova, York to Rijeka, on 6th April 1912 brought the Titanic life-
utvrđena je autentičnost riječkoga spasilačkog prsluka te otkrio jacket back with himself and many years later donated it to
identitet osobe koja ga je i donijela u Rijeku. Riječ je o pomorcu the newly founded Sušak City Museum. The life-jacket has
Josipu Caru, članu posade broda Carpathija koji je na povratku remained preserved until today as part of the holdings of that
iz New Yorka u Rijeku, 6. travnja 1912. godine donio sa sobom Museum and later of the Maritime Museum of the Croatian
i Titanicov pojas za spašavanje kojeg je, pak, mnogo godina ka- Littoral. In addition to this, in 2004, the Croatian Restora-
snije darovao novoosnovanom Gradskom muzeju Sušak. Kao tion Institute started its renovation and the textile work-
dio fundusa toga muzeja a potom i Muzeja Hrvatskoga primorja shops were finished the following year. The public were only
pojas je ostao sačuvan sve do danas. Štoviše, 2004. godine počela able to see it once and that occurred before its restoration,
je i njegova restauracija u Hrvatskom restauratorskom zavodu within the Maritime and Historical Museum of the Croatian
a u sklopu radionica za tekstil završena godinu kasnije. Očima Littoral's exhibition in occasion of the International Muse-
javnosti bio je pokazan tek jedanput i to prije restauracije, na ums Day known as the "Croatian Maritime Tradition and
izložbi „Hrvatska pomorska tradicija i procesi globalizacije“ Po- Globalization Processes". And finally, what else can we say,
morskog i povijesnog muzeja Hrvatskoga primorja prigodom but to go back to the beginning and point out once more: Ri-
Međunarodnog dana muzeja. I za kraj, što reći nego vratiti se jeka is the first city in which the Carpathia docked after its
na početak i još jedanput istaknuti: Rijeka je prvi grad u kojem return from New York transporting castaways from the Ti-
je Carpathija pristala nakon povratka iz New Yorka, prevoze- tanic, and besides being a witness to this legendary catastro-
ći brodolomce s Titanica, a „preživjeli“ prsluk u Pomorskom i phe, the “surviving” life-jacket is situated in the Maritime
povijesnom muzeju Hrvatskog primorja svjedok je ne samo le- and Historical Museum of the Croatian Littoral and has also
gendarne katastrofe već i iznimne pomorske prošlosti grada na been witness to the exceptional maritime past of the city on
Rječini iz čije je luke za Ameriku u razdoblju od kraja 1903. do the Rječina River from whose port, from the end of 1903 until
potkraj 1914. otplovilo 330.000 iseljenika. the end of 1914, some 330,000 emigrants sailed for America.
70

ZOOM
Ante
Škrobonja
Jesu li sinonim za rock'n'roll električne gitare? One
iste po kojima je prvi naraštaj riječkih rock-bukača,
što se pojavio 60-tih, prozvan „električarima“? Od-
govor je potvrdan. Samo, što bismo od tih gitara i
njihovih ponosnih vlasnika danas mogli vidjeti da u
rukama Ante Škrobonje nije bilo fotoaparata?
Škrobonju su pionirskim rock-veselicama, umje-
sto zvučnih tonova, privukli vizualni tonovi koje
je dobivao na foto-papiru. Aparat je uzeo u ruke
1958., dvije godine potom sudionik je rađanja
prve hrvatske i jugoslavenske rock-grupe, VIS-a
Uragani. S grupom je toliko srastao da ga glazbe-
nici smatraju članom benda. Škrobonja ih nepre-
kidno snima sljedećih desetak godina. I ne samo
njih. Pred objektivom mu je prodefilirala cijela
gradska scena 60-tih (Sonori, Kockari, Sirene,
Sinovi mora i drugi), a snimke će s vremenom

Are they a synonym for electric guitar's rock’n’roll?

The same one according to which the first generati-
on of Rijeka’s rock rabble-rousers appeared in 1960s
and who were known as “electricians”? The answer
is yes. But, what can be seen today from these gui-
tars and their proud owners if in the hands of Ante
Škrobonja there wasn’t a photographic camera?
Rather than the musical tones, Škrobonja was
attracted to the pioneer rock party songs by the
visual tones he obtained on his photographic pa-
per. He first held a camera back in 1958, two years
later he became a part of the making of the new
Croatian and Yugoslavian rock band, VIS Ura-
gani. He completely grew alongside the group so
that the musicians considered him a member of
the band. Škrobonja continuously photographed
them for the next ten years. And not only them.
In front of his lens a review of all the city scenes
of 1960s has passed (Sonori, Kockari, Sirene, Si-
novi mora and others) and his photos have, over
 71

Uragani (Dario i Mirko)

Uragani (Dario and Mirko)

Prva službena fotografija Uragana (siječanj 1961.)

The first Uragani's official photography (January, 1961)
72

Prema procjenama 10.000 mladih na Korzu u

Na jednoj od maturalnih zabava u kristalnoj dvorani hotela prigodi Dana mladosti 1971. Koncert Uragana
Kvarner, sredina šezdesetih There was approx. 10 000 youths on Korzo
At one of the graduation parties in the Hotel Kvarner's celebrating the Dan mladosti (Youths Day)
Kristalna dvorana, mid '60s in 1971. Concert of the Uragani group

Dan mladosti 1971. Pred današnjim

Poglavarstvom Grada plesalo se i na pozornici
The Dan mladosti (Youths Day), 1971. In the front of today's
Municipality building, people was dancing on the stage
 73

Roland Šuster na pozornici

Amaterskog kazališta V. C. Emin
u pozadini Josip Forembacher.
Publike je bilo ne samo u dvorani
već i iza pozornice...rane šezdesete
Roland Šuster at the amateur
theatre „V.C.Emin“ stage. Josip
Forembacherin the backstage.
Audience not only in the hall but
also behind the stage....early'60s

dobiti auru dojmljivog svjedočanstva toga razdoblja domaće pop-

kulture.
Škrobonji će rock-fotografija u međuvremenu ustupiti mjesto novim te-
matskim interesima, dobit će i prvu riječku titulu FIAP majstora fotogra-
fije. No, ne kaže se bez razloga: sve ljubavi dolaze i odlaze, osim – prvih...

time, taken the aura of an impressive testimony of the national

pop culture of that period.
Rock photos have, in the meanwhile, conceded to Škrobonja a place
Publika u Amaterskom kazalištu V. C. Emin
within new thematic interests and provided him with the first Rije- natapirane frizure, kravate...rane šezdesete
ka FIAP title of master of photography. Nevertheless, it is not said Audience at the amateur theatre „V.C.Emin“...
without a reason: all loves come and go, except for the first one… '70s hairstyle, ties...early '60s
74

Na Trsatskoj kuli...omotnica za "Školjku"

At the Trsat Castle...cover for the „Školjka“ LP

Kockari na Trsatskoj kuli (1970.)

"Sedmice" (1970.) "Kockari" at the Trsat Castle (1970.)
 75
Slasni kutak / Tasty corner Piše / Written by: Sandi Bujan Cvečić Fotografije / Photos: TZ Čavle - Čavle Tourist Board

Grobnička palenta kompirica

Grobnik polenta kompirica
(polenta with potatoes)

Težačko jelo
za blagdanski stol
A Farmer’s meal for the Holiday Table
Oduvijek se u ovim našim krajevima živjelo skromno. People have always lived modestly in this area. They saved
Štedjelo se gdje god se moglo pa tako i na hrani. Jelo se money whenever they could and this was the same with
uglavnom ono što je uzgojeno u vlastitim štalama i na food. They ate what they cultivated in their own barns and
vlastitim poljima. Jedno od tih jela je, nekad svakodnev- fields. One of these meals, that was normally eaten every
na i obična, a danas tražena i cijenjena - palenta kompi- day and which has today returned to favour is the polenta
rica. 4 known as kompirica. 4
 76

I danas se palenta kuha u domaćinstvima ovoga Grobnik field, situated in Rijeka’s hinterland, along the
kraja, ali i u svim ugostiteljskim objektima koji road to Zagreb, was once full of corn plantations. From
drže do tradicije. Vjerojatno bi se palenta kuhala the corn, which was milled at the mill located close by the
i češće, ali vremena je sve manje. Naime, prava Rječina River, the muka – corn flour was obtained. For
palenta, kuha se oko 45 minuta the most part polenta was made with boiled potatoes and
for this reason is knows as polenta kompirica (kompir –
Even today polenta is cooked in the houses of this a regional name for potato). In fact, these areas suffered
area, as well as in all those catering facilities from the lack of wheat, so polenta was used instead of
that care about local tradition. Polenta would bread. The President of the Čavle Tourist Board, Gordana
probably be cooked more often, man’s free time Gržetić, told us:
isn’t as long as it once was. In fact, real polenta Even today polenta is cooked in the houses of this area, as
should be cooked for around 45 minutes well as in all those catering facilities that care about local
tradition. The family holiday table in the area of Grobnik
Grobničko polje, smješteno u zaleđu Rijeke, uz cestu pre- and its surroundings is unimaginable without this dish.
ma Zagrebu, obilovalo je nasadima kukuruza. Od kukuruza, Corn is still milled at Gašpar’s mill in the Martinovo Selo
kojeg se mljelo u mlinu na obližnjoj rijeci Rječini dobivala village. Polenta would probably be cooked more often,
se muka - kukuruzno brašno, a od njega se pravila palenta. man’s free time isn’t as long as it once was. In fact, real po-
Najčešće, palenta s kuhanim krumpirom pa se zbog toga lenta should be cooked for around 45 minutes and today’s
zvala - palenta kompirica. Naime, u ovim je krajevima pše- modern and business women scarcely find time for this
nice bilo vrlo malo pa je palenta bila zamjena za kruh. Ispri- task.
čala nam je to predsjednica Turističke zajednice Čavle, How should we cook the polenta? Put some potatoes to boil
Gordana Gržetić. in salted water in a pinjata (a regional name for saucepan)
I danas se palenta kuha u domaćinstvima ovoga kraja, ali i u and boil them until they fall into pieces. Then add the corn
svim ugostiteljskim objektima koji drže do tradicije. Danas flour, in such a quantity that does not make the mix too
je bez tog jela nezamisliv obiteljski blagdanski stol na Grob- dense. For half a kilogram of prepared polenta you will need
nišćini, ali i šire. Kukuruz se još uvijek melje u Gašparovom 350 g of potatoes and 200 g of corn flour. Mix the polenta
mlinu u Martinovu Selu. Vjerojatno bi se palenta kuhala i with a palentar (regional name for ladle) for 45 minutes on
češće, ali vremena je sve manje. Naime, prava palenta, kuha over a strong flame and is ready when it begins to separate
se oko 45 minuta, a današnje moderne i zaposlene žene za from the palentar. Before the end add a spoon of butter to
to teško nalaze vremena. the polenta and then tip it out onto a wooden plate or taruj
(regional name for plate).
Kako skuhati palentu? Krumpir stavite kuhati u slanu vodu
u lonac - pinjatu i kuhajte dok se ne raspadne. Zatim dodaj- In other parts of Croatia, polenta is called – žganci or pura.
te kukuruzno brašno, toliko da ne bude gusto. Za pola kilo- The ways of preparation differ slightly, as does the way of
grama gotove palente potrebno je oko 35 dag krumpira i 20 how it is served. In this area, polenta is also served with
dag kukuruznoga brašna. Palenta se miješa s kuhačom – pa- goulash, zarebrnik (best smoked pork meat) or smoked
lentarom, 45 minuta na jakoj vatri, a gotova je kad se počne ham in wine, sauerkraut, jota (minestrone with beans and
odvajati od palentara. Pred kraj se doda žlica putra, a gotova sauerkraut), repa (minestrone with beans and turnip) and
palenta se istrese na drveni tanjur - taruj. beans, salted fish, fish stew or simply with the famous and
much appreciated Grobnik sheep cheese.
Palenta se u drugim krajevima Hrvatske naziva - žganci ili
pura. Ponešto se razlikuju načini pripreme, ali i posluži- Back in 2007, aware of the need to protect traditions
vanja. U ovim našim krajevima palenta se i danas jede uz from being forgotten, the Municipality of Čavle and the
 77

gulaš, zarebrnik ili pršut u vinu, kupus, jotu, repu i grah, Municipality of Jelenje Tourist Boards began the Polenta
slane ribe, brodet ili pak jednostavno uz poznati i cijenjeni and Cheese Festival which is held every year at the end of
grobnički ovčji sir. June alternately in Čavle and Dražice - Grobnik's two larg-
est villages. Polenta is cooked outdoors in a pinjata - pot
Svjesni nužnosti zaštite tradicije od zaborava, Turističke
which can hold up to 750 litres and is mixed with large
zajednice općina Čavle i Jelenje 2007. godine pokrenule su
palentari – ladles that look more like huge paddles, and
Festival palente i sira koji se održava svake godine krajem
when it is ready, it is is tipped out onto a large plate with
mjeseca lipnja, naizmjenice u dva najveća grobnička mjesta –
radius of 3 metres. The polenta is cooked by around twenty
Čavlima i Dražicama. Palenta se kuha na otvorenom u pinjati
chefs under the expert guidance of head chef, Grozdana
koja može primiti 750 litara, s velikim palentarima koji više
Rak, whilst preparations including the peeling of potatoes
sliče na velika vesla, a kad je gotova, istresa se na taruj pro-
begin a few days earlier. The first year, for 500 kilograms
mjera tri metra. Palentu kuha dvadesetak kuhara pod bud-
of polenta kompirica, 350 kilograms of potatoes and 200
nim okom glavne kuharice Grozdane Rak, a pripreme poput
kilograms of corn flour were used from Gašpar's mill. The
čišćenja krumpira počinju nekoliko dana ranije. Prve godine
polenta is never the same. It depends on the corn grain,
je za pripremu 500 kilograma palente kompirice utrošeno
the way the flour is milled, the quality of the potatoes and
350 kilograma krumpira i 200 kilograma kukuruznoga braš-
whether more or less salt will be used. There are a number
na iz Gašparova mlina. Palenta nikad nije ista. Ovisi kakvo
of minor things that can affect the class and the quality. This
je zrno kukuruza, kako se mljelo brašno, kakve je kvalitete
is the reason its uncertainty holds such charm.
krumpir, te hoće li biti slanija ili manje slana. Puno je malih
sitnica koje mogu utjecati na kakvoću i kvalitetu. Zato i neiz- The Polenta and Cheese Festival attracts a large number
vjesnost pri njezinu kuhanju ima svoju draž. of visitors who, besides polenta, can also enjoy Grobnik’s
unmissable cheese and hear the hit song “Niš ni boje od
Festival palente i sira redovito privlači velik broj posjetite-
palente kompirice” (Nothing is better than polenta kom-
lja koji osim u palenti mogu uživati i u nezaobilaznom grob-
pirica) performed by the local Grobnik klapa and will not
ničkom siru uz hit pjesmu „Niš ni boje od palente kompi-
leave empty-handed. Diligent hands have created interest-
rice“ koju izvodi domaća klapa Grobnik A ni kući se ne ide
ing souvenirs. Half a kilogram of muka (polenta) from the
praznih ruku. Vrijedne ruke izradile su zanimljive suveni-
village of Martinovo Selo, a quarter of Grobnik cheese and a
re. Pol kilograma muke (palente) iz Martinova Sela, kvarat
palentar (ladle). All you will need to repeat this gastronomic
grobničkoga sira i jedan palentar. To je dovoljno da ovaj ga-
experience at home too. Bon appétit!
stronomski užitak ponovite i kod kuće. U slast!
Slasni kutak / Tasty corner Piše / Written by: Silvia Vidović Fotografije / Photos: Restoran Municipium

Restoran Municipium
Municipium restaurant
 79

Neke bi elegantna rimska slova ispisana na pročelju ove The elegant Roman letters written on the facade of this mag-
velebne zgrade prije asocirala na kakav prostor vezan uz nificent building might be associated with a space connected
prošlost, možda muzej ili galeriju, no nedajte se zavarati – to the past, perhaps a museum or a gallery, but you shouldn’t
iza njih se krije restoran. Restoran Municipium svoje ime be deluded – as behind these letters a restaurant is hidden.
i povijesni štih duguje istoimenoj palači iz 19. stoljeća u The Municipium Restaurant owes its name and historical at-
kojoj se nalazi, dok je njegova kulinarska ponuda sasvim mosphere to the 19th century palace of the same name where
suvremena - najfinije delicije (poglavito) domaće gastro- it is situated, whilst its gastronomic offer is completely mod-
nomije, s naglaskom na širok izbor ribljih jela. Prateći ga- ern – the most delicious meals (especially) of local gastrono-
stronomske, ali i sezonske trendove, njegova ponuda se my with the accent on a wide choice of fish dishes. Following
neprekidno mijenja i obnavlja, no uvijek je bazirana na gastronomic as well as seasonal trends, its offer is constantly
kvalitetnim i svježim proizvodima na kakve se može nai- changing and updated but is always based on quality and fresh
ći u bogatoj lepezi naše riječke tržnice. A kako bi se sve to products that can be found widely on Rijeka's market. And in
začinilo, tu je i kvalitetna vinska karta s naglaskom na vina order to enhance all that, there is also an excellent wine list
istarskih vinara. with the accent of the wines produced by Istrian vintners.

Iznutra je ambijent restorana Municipium neupadljiv, Municipium's interior is unobtrusive but elegant, translucent
ali profinjen – njegov prozračan interijer stvoren kori- created by the combination of wood and arches and decorated
štenjem drva i lukova i ukrašen motivima Rijeke stvara by Rijeka motives, creating a pleasant and elegant atmosphere.
ugodno i elegantno ozračje. Navedeno ga, uz činjenicu da The above-mentioned facts and also that it is located in a par-
se nalazi na pogodnoj, ambijentalnoj lokaciji u samome ticularly apt, environmental position, in the very heart of Ri-
srcu grada Rijeke, na Trgu Riječke rezolucije, čini pravim jeka, on Riječka rezolucija Square, making it the perfect place
mjestom za poslovne i formalne susrete. Kao važnu po- for business and formal meetings. Its owner, Danko Borovina,
sebnost ovog restorana, njegov vlasnik Danko Borovina points out that the important particularity of this restaurant is
ističe i pristup prema gostu koji on njeguje, opisujući ga its approach to its guests that it cherishes, describing it as a re-
kao odnos utemeljen na povjerenju i iskrenosti. Nesum- lationship based on trust and honesty. It is surely this special
njivo je da je upravo njegov poseban pristup, zajedno s je- approach, together with the unique environment and quality
dinstvenim ambijentom i kvalitetom koju njeguje, zaslu- that is so cherished, which is responsible for placing Munici-
žan za to što je restoran Municipium već mnogo puta bio pium for so many times within 100 best Croatian restaurants
svrstan među 100 najboljih hrvatskih restorana, te što se as well as being placed at the top of the gastronomic offer for
već čitavo desetljeće (koliko i postoji) nalazi pri samom the past decade (the period of its existence) for Rijeka and its
vrhu gastronomske ponude Rijeke i okolice. surroundings.
Za kraj, valja napomenuti da je restoran Municipium od- Finally, it is worth mentioning that the Municipium Restau-
nedavno svoju ponudu proširio i na usluge cateringa. rant has recently extended its offer with regard to catering
services.
 Slasni kutak / Tasty corner Piše / Written by: Josipa Leko Šimić Fotografije / Photos: Sabrage Pub

Sabrage Pub
na Trsatu Sabrage Pub on Trsat

Iako je otvoren prije samo devet godina, Sabrage pub na Trsatu Although it was only opened nine years ago, the Sabrage pub on
ostavlja dojam puno dulje, desetljećima stvarane, tradicije. Riječ Trsat gives the impression of a long tradition created over dec-
je o pubu u kojem je svaki detalj interijera pažljivo osmišljen i ades. It is about a pub where every detail of the interior has been
pomno biran. Smješten je točno preko puta Trsatskoga svetišta, carefully imagined and accurately selected. It can be found in the
u ulici Petra Zrinskog 2. Gosti koji rado borave u Sabrageu sma- front of the Trsat sanctuary, in 2, Petar Zrinski Street. Guests who
traju da je prednost pomno uređenog puba upravo u tom što je like to spend time at the Sabrage consider the advantage of having
smješten izvan samog centra grada, daleko od gradske buke, no a carefully furnished pub just outside the heart of the city centre,
blizu svim važnim zbivanjima u gradu. far from the city noise, but close to all the important events held
I dok je nekim posjetiteljima ovaj pub najdraže odredište za is- in the city.
pijanje jutarnje kave, pa se tu okupljaju već od sedam ujutro kad And whilst this pub is a favourite destination for some visitors to
se otvare vrata gostima, drugi najradije dolaze u večernjim sati- have their morning coffee, gathering here as early as seven o'clock
ma. Svi oni imaju priliku uživati u pomno odabranim vrhunskim in the morning when the doors are opened for guests, others pre-
vinima, kubanskim koktelima te dobroj blues i jazz glazbi. fer to come during the evening hours. All of them have the chance
Specifičnost ovog puba je u velikoj ponudi kubanskih kokte- of enjoying excellent and carefully selected wines, Cuban cock-
la koje uglavnom nabavljaju iz Južne Amerike. Jednostavan i tails as well as good blues and jazz music.
ujedno jedan od najpopularnijih koktela koji nosi naziv kuće, The specificity of this pub is in the large offer of Cuban cocktails
“Sabrage pub” lako je pripremiti budući da se kombiniraju tek which are mainly supplied from South America. One of these is
tri sastojka. Potrebno je izmiksati sok od ananasa, sok od brusni- simple to make and at the same time one of the most famous cock-
ce i Amaretto Disaronno i koktel je na stolu. tails, named after the pub, the “Sabrage pub”, as there are only
-Osim privlačnih koktela u ponudi imamo oko devedeset sorti three ingredients needed to prepare it. Pineapple juice, cranberry
kvalitetnih hrvatskih, francuskih, čileanskih, portugalskih i ar- juice and Amaretto Disaronno that should be mixed together and
gentinskih vina, a bogat je i izbor šampanjaca, otkriva vlasnik viola - the cocktail is served.
Sabrage puba, Ante Žeželj. -Besides attractive cocktails we also offer around ninety kinds
On smatra kako goste privlače i kokteli od kave. Naravno, riječ of fine Croatian, French, Chilean, Portuguese and Argentinean
je o kavi s različitim aromama koju nije jednostavno pronaći u wines and the choice of champagnes is also rich, Ante Žeželj, the
owner of the Sabrage pub reveals.
 81

gradu na Rječini. Ovdje je moguće dobiti kavu s dodatkom lješ-

njaka, čokolade ili kakaa i nekih drugih aroma. Osim kave i aro-
matičnih dodataka, glavni sastojak kave s aromom je frozen ili
hladna pjena koja se stavlja na sam vrh toplo-hladnog napitka.
Može se zaključiti kako je cijela koncepcija Sabrage puba teme-
ljena na vrhunskim vinima, koktelima i dobroj glazbi. Naime,
svakoga petka goste uz solo gitaru, trubu i gonge zabavlja kućni
band “Duo Acoustic” dok se nekoliko puta mjesečno, uglavnom
subotom, u ovom pubu predstavljaju novi izvođači. Na pomolu
je i suradnja s eminentnim svjetskim gitaristom Damirom Hali-
lićem Halom, a za pomno odabran glazbeni program ovog puba
zadužen je Damjan Vasiljević.
-U skorije vrijeme u pubu planiramo organizirati Blues festival
i house partye, kaže Žeželj kojem je u planu i organizacija pri-
vatnih zabava zatvorenog tipa. U Sabrageu često organiziramo
prezentacije kvalitetnih vina, a u ponudi imamo i catering. Pro- According to him, guests are attracted by coffee cocktails too. Of
gram je tijekom cijele godine identičan. course, here we are talking about coffee with different aromas that
Najčešći gosti Sabrage puba su Riječani i Zagrepčani, dok strani are not easily found in the city on the Rječina River. It is possible
turisti nešto rjeđe zalaze u ovaj ugostiteljski objekt. Oni, kaže to have a coffee with a walnut, chocolate or cocoa flavour as well
Žeželj imaju svoju rutu koja trsatskim ugostiteljima i ne ide na as with a number of other flavours. Besides coffee and aromatic
ruku. additives, the main ingredient in the aroma coffees is the frozen
or cold foam which goes on the top of the hot-cold beverage.
Turisti uglavnom iziđu iz autobusa vidjeti Trsatsko svetište i
gradinu te se odmah, bez zadržavanja vraćaju natrag. Vodiči čini It can be concluded that the entire concept of the Sabrage pub is
se imaju svoju šihtu koja za ugostitelje, koji imaju što ponuditi i based on excellent wines, cocktails and good music. In fact, every
nije najidealnija. Friday, guests are entertained by the “Duo Acoustic” house band
with solo guitar, trumpet and gongs, whilst several times a month,
-Ovdje imamo puno mogućnosti, a turisti imaju što i vidjeti. Mi
mainly on Saturdays, new performers are having their time in
smo za njih spremni organizirati prezentacije vina, razne do-
the pub. Even a collaboration with eminent world guitar player,
mjenke, ali i manifestacije poput Dana francuskih ili hrvatskih
Damir Halilić Hal has been planned whilst Damjan Vasiljević is in
vina. Tematske manifestacije mogu se organizirati za različite
charge of the carefully chosen music program here.
grupe turista, no njih treba dovesti, kaže Žeželj objašnjavajući
kako su za takvu vrstu promocije zainteresirani i Istarski vinari. -In the near future we plan to organize a Blues Festival and house
parties in the pub, says Žeželj who plans to organize private
Nažalost, od šest tisuća turista, koliko ih godišnje prođe kroz
closed-door parties as well. At Sabrage we often organize presen-
Trsat, beznačajan broj se nešto duže zadržava na području koje
tations of quality wines and offer a catering service as well. The
ima potencijala za još veću turističku ponudu.
program remains unchanged throughout the year.
Inače, Sabrage pub radi od sedam do dva sata poslije ponoći, a
The most frequent guests to the Sabrage pub are citizens from
može primiti oko osamdeset gostiju. Svi koji jednom dođu vra-
Rijeka and Zagreb, whilst to date foreign tourists rarely come to
ćaju se na ovo odredište.
this catering facility. The reason for this, says Žeželj, is that they
already have their own itineraries that does not usually include
Trsat caterers. Tourists mainly go out by bus to visit the Trsat
Sanctuary and Castle and then immediately return to where they
came from without taking the time to stop. It would appear that
tourist guides have their own itineraries which are not the most
ideal for caterers who also have something to offer.
-Here we have a number of possibilities, and tourists have plenty
of things to see. We are ready to organize wine presentations, a
variety of banquets, as well as events such as French Days or
Croatian Wines for them. Topical events can also be organized for
the various tourist groups, but they need to be brought here, says
Žeželj informing us that even Istrian wine producers would be in-
terested in this kind of promotion.
Unfortunately, of the six thousand tourists that visit Trsat annu-
ally, an insignificant number stays any length of time in an area
that has a potential for an even greater tourist offer. Nevertheless,
the Sabrage pub is open from 7 am until 2 am and can host around
eighty guests at any one time.
Once anyone has been here, they always come back.
 82

Press clipping - Kako nas drugi vide / As others see us

Turistička zajednica grada Rijeke ovjenčana nagradama

Od osnutka Turističke zajednice Grada Rijeke, 2010. godina će ostati zapamćena kao naj-
trofejnija godina zahvaljujući nizu priznanja i nagrada koje su stigle na njezinu adresu.
U sklopu akcije za prestižnu nagradu Hrvatske turističke zajednice "Plavi cvijet 2010.",
povjerenstvo Turističke zajednice Kvarnera dodijelilo je prvo mjesto Turističkom in-
formativnom centru Rijeka. Riječki karneval odnio je prvu nagradu u kategoriji «Kul-
turna baština, manifestacije i nagrade» treću su u kategoriji «Suvenir» osvojili suvenir
Torpedo - olovka, što ga je osmislio riječki glazbenik i zlatar Tonči Grabušić. Okućnica
privatne zgrade Lučijane Grbac dobila je treću nagradu u kategoriji «Okućnica privatne
kuće», a četvrto je mjesto u kategoriji «Park» pripalo je Parku prof. Vinka Frančiškovi-
ća, dok je Javnoj plaži za invalide u uvali Kostanj u kategoriji «Javna plaža» dodijeljeno
posebno priznanje.
Riječki gradonačelnik Vojko Obersnel i Turistička Zajednica Grada Rijeke nagrađeni su
za zasluge u razvoju turizma Poveljom F.E.S.T. 2010 i Zlatnim Interstas-om 2010. Ove
prestižne međunarodne nagrade već 16 godina dodjeljuje Europska federacija turistič-
kih novinara. Osvajanjem Zlatnog Interstas-a pružena je mogućnost ulaska u projekt
"Hrvatska - s cvijećem u zajedničku Europu", odnosno sudjelovanje u natjecanju za pre-
stižnu nagradu Zlatni cvijet Europe.
Na završnici Dana hrvatskog turizma, u akciji "Turistički cvijet - kvaliteta za Hrvatsku
2010." Rijeka je osvojila treću nagradu u kategoriji najboljih turističkih mjesta na Jadra-
nu do pet tisuća ležaja.
Turistička zajednica Grada Rijeke može se pohvaliti i "Zlatnim turističkim srcem" što ga
je zaslužila kao organizator najbolje turističke manifestacije jugoistočne Europe u 2009.
godini - Međunarodnoga riječkoga karnevala. U konkurenciji čak 15 zemalja, međuna-
rodno priznanje Turističkoj Zajednici grada Rijeke dodijelio je stručni ocjenjivački sud
Međunarodnoga centra za unapređenje ugostiteljstva i turizma - "Sacen International".
(Andrea Marić)

Award-winning Rijeka Tourist Board

From its founding, the Rijeka Tourist Board will remember 2010 as the year in which it
won the most trophies thanks to a series of acknowledgments and prizes that came to its
address. Within the Croatian Tourist Board's activity for the “Blue Flower 2010” a pres-
tigious award, the Kvarner Tourist Board’s commission awarded Rijeka Tourist Informa-
tion Centre. Rijeka Carnival won the first prize in the category “Cultural Heritage, Events
and Prizes” whilst the third prize in the category “Souvenir” went to the Torpedo - pencil
souvenir created by Rijeka musician and goldsmith, Tonči Grabušić. The private plot of
Lučijana Grbac’s private building won the third prize in the category “Private House Plot”
and the fourth prize in the category “Park” went to Prof. Vinko Frančišković's Park. The
Public Beach for the Handicapped in the Kostanj Bay was awarded, in the category “Public
Beach”, a special acknowledgment.
Rijeka’s Mayor, Vojko Obersnel and the Rijeka Tourist Board have been awarded the
F.E.S.T. 2010 diploma and Golden Interstas 2010 for credits accomplished in the devel-
opment of tourism. By winning the Golden Interstas, the Tourist Board has gained the
possibility of entering the "Croatia – with Flowers into a United Europe” project, that is,
participation in the contest for the prestigious Golden Flower of Europe award.
In the final of Croatian Tourism Day, during the “Tourist Flower – Quality for Croatia
2010” activity, Rijeka won third prize in the category of best tourist destination on the
Adriatic with up to five thousand beds.
The Rijeka Tourist Board can boast the "Golden Tourist Heart" award as organiser of the
best event in south-eastern Europe in 2009 – the International Rijeka Carnival. In the
competition together with another 15 countries, the Rijeka Tourist Board was awarded
an international acknowledgment by the expert commission of the International Cen-
tre for Catering and Tourism Development – “Sacen International”. (Andrea Marić)
Fotografija / Photo: TZ Rijeka - Rijeka Tourist Board
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line of business travellers. Our state of the art Business centre

Grand Hotel Bonavia - in business since 1876.

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