Trek

in

Corsica

1. Corsican Haute Route (GR20)

James Baxter

October 2006
This is a short account of a trek across about half the trail encounters quite
the spine of mountains which run in a steep terrain crossing slabs and boulders.
north-south direction down the length These sections are more common in the
of the Island of Corsica. The trek is well northern half. The other half of the trail
known as the GR20 and is reputed to be goes along quite reasonable paths, many
one of the most demanding recognized of which follow old pastoral routes. These
walking trails in Europe. The trail takes easier sections are more common in the
between 10 and 16 days. Most people do southern half. A typical day though will
it in about 14-15 days, which allows time encounter both steeper sections with
for some side trips or mountain ascents slabs and boulders and easier paths.
en route. If time is short it is possible to
double up on some of the shorter days Accommodation, meals and provisions
and do it in 10 or 11 days, as I did and is are provided by some 35 refuges, gîtes
described below. (bunkhouses) and bergeries (mountain
farms) located along its length. Of these
The trail involves some scrambling as it is it the refuges that most of the logistics
traverses across sharp ridges and passes revolve around. The 15 odd refuges are
over some steep cols but in this is far less open year-round for accommodation.
than one percent of the total route. Apart From June to September inclusive the
from these short scrambling sections refuges are run by a gardien. The gardien

The endless ridges of mountains in Central Corsica stack up layer upon layer until they disappear into
the haze. Theses ridges are extremely rugged and barren in their higher reaches but the valleys between
are surprisingly lush despite the scarcity of water.
GR20 in Corsica

The Laricio or Corsican Cyclamens, Cyclamen repandum, are The Fire Salamander,
Pine, Pinus nigra ssp laricio, abundant in the lower forests in the Salamandra corsica, are
is indigenous to Corsica. It late summer generally active at night but
thrives on the higher slopes, may come out after rain.
will allocate beds to the first 30-40 hikers Camping is only allowed by the refuges
who arrive each day, provide meals and and some of the bergeries and gîtes.
sell limited supplies from a shop. During
the peak months of July and August the In May the passes are snowbound and
refuges fill up early and a tent is essential. accommodation is limited. In June the heat
In later June and early September the is tolerable but there will still be some
refuges may be crowded and a tent is snow on the passes. During the summer
strongly advised. In early June and later months of July and August it gets very
September the refuges are usually half hot and afternoon thunderstorms are
full. The bergeries are summer farms common. In September the heat become
which operate from June to September. more bearable. June and September are
There are about 15 along the route. A few the best months to go as the weather is
provide accommodation in fixed tents and not so hot, the trail is not so busy, the
nearly all sell basic food provisions. In the refuges are staffed and the bergeries are
6 places where the route meets a road operating. In October the chance of rain
there are gîtes or hotels. These are usually or snow increases and accommodation
open June to September and provide is limited to refuges, while meals and
accommodation, meals and provisions. provisions are almost nil outside villages.
The entire centre of Corsica is a convoluted jumble of 2000 meter mountains, sharp ridges, deep valleys
and limited pastures. During the summer domestic animals are taken up to the these pastures.

Corsica Haute Route

Petra Piana

Col de Verdi
Manganu

Vizzavona

Usciolu
Calenzana

Carazzu

Tighjettu

Bavella

Conca

The 10-16 day Corsican Haute Route, or GR20, starts at the village of Calenzana on the north west
corner of the island and heads southwards for 190 km, passing over many rocky cols and along sharp
ridges (crêtes) to arrive at the village of Conca on the south east corner of the island. The above map
show the 11 stages as described in the route summary below. Most people will want to insert 2 or 3
more stages.
On day 3 the route passes through the notorious When there is heavy rain in the Cirque de
Cirque de Solitude. This section involves Solitude, however, a cascade forms very quickly
scrambling down 200m and then up 250m. There submerging the chains in a torrent of water,
are chains to assist with the more exposed making this section somewhat precarious This
sections (here shown on the ascent). In dry was the case for me. These two photo were taken
weather like this it is quite straight forward. from the same place at the top of the ladder.

Refuge de Petra Piana is at the end of the alpine Refuge de l’Onda is nestled on a saddle between
day 6. It is a typical refuge with 30-40 beds in a mountains. It overlooks a thriving bergerie. It only
dormitory and cooking/living area. has about 20 beds. It is half way on day 7.

On day 5 the route passes the busy Bergeries de On day 8 the trail passes the Bergeries d’E
Vaccaghja. This bergerie has a large herd of goats Traghjete. There some 20 old traditional buildings
and makes cheese, which it sells to walkers. Like a to this idyllic complex nestled in a wooded valley
few bergeries it has tented accommodation under sharp mountains.
Day 6 is a rugged, but spectacular, trip across jagged ridges with some scrambling along lofty arêtes. There
are plenty of good views down into steep cirques and valleys carved into the granite by vanished glaciers.

The hot daytime temperatures in Central Corsica causes the air to rise dragging in moist air from over
the sea. At the height of summer this causes afternoon thunderstorms. It also creates marvellous sunsets.
On day 9 the route goes along a convoluted ridge to the saddle in the picture. It then climbs up the ridge
onto the crest of the mountain and follows it south to reach the charming Refuge d’Usciolu which is
located on a shelf just below the crest.

There are many scrambling sections on the trail. Most of these are straightforward and unexposed.
Where the scrambles are more demanding or exposed chains have been installed. This short section is
on the descent to Bavella from the Aiguilles de Bavella on day 10.
 Corsica: The Haute Route or GR20
Day Start Finish Km Up Down Time General
Leave the village of Calenzana and head up the path for 3
Refuge hrs to a col. Then sidle a rocky, forested ridge with some
easy scrambling to gain another col in 2 hrs. This takes
1 Calenzana d’Ortu di u 12 km 1400 200 6 hrs you into the heart of the mountains. Contour for an hour
Piobbu across a hillside into a gully, just beyond which lies the
first refuge on a grassy shelf.
From the refuge cross a low ridge to ruined bergeries,
Refuge then make a steep ascent up a slab and boulder, birch
Refuge de covered valley to reach a col in 3 hours. From the col
2 d’Ortu di u 8 km 770 1040 6 hrs follow a convoluted rocky ridge in precipitous terrain
Carozzu
Piobbu for 2 hours, with some scrambling, to reach another col.
From this col it is a steep hours descent to the refuge.
Leave the refuge, descend to a footbridge over a river and
follow this river up steep rocky terrain to a col. Cross
Refuge de Refuge de the col, follow a jagged ridge passing above Asco, then
3 14 km 1700 1250 9½ hrs descend to the head of a valley. Ascend to a col and enter
Carozzu Tighjettu
the Cirque de Solitude. Traverse this steep cirque with
much scrambling to a col, then descend to the refuge.
Descend into the pine forest, pass a bergerie, contour a
forested shoulder and then climb up a valley with some
Refuge de Hotel Castel scrambling to rounded col. From the col ascend a gentle
4 17 km 880 1170 8 hrs ridge to a refuge. Then descend into the valley and follow
Tighjettu di Vergio
the east side of the river to a bridge. Cross the bridge,
pass a bergeries and follow the path to the hotel/gîte.
After four rugged days this one is easy and pastoral.
Follow a forested path to a small col with a shrine, climb
Hotel Castel Refuge de a gentle ridge to a broad grassy col. Descend shallow
5 17 km 630 450 5½ hrs slopes to a large meadow and Lake Nanu. Cross a flat
di Vergio Manganu
watershed and descend a pleasant valley, past bergeries to
another large meadow. Cross this to reach the refuge.
Ascend a steep bouldery valley up to a jagged ridge.
Cross the ridge through a slot into a splendid cirque
Refuge de Refuge de with lakes. Scramble along an arête to the of the cirque.
6 10 km 910 680 6 hrs Then traverse an awkward slope and climb steeply to
Manganu Petra Piana
reach a high valley. Ascend this valley and cross a col. Then
descend a slope, crossing a ridge, to reach the refuge.
Descend a rocky path to a col and climb a broad ridge
to a summit. Head south along the ridge past a saddle to
Refuge de Col de another summit and descend slopes to the refuge. From
7 18 km 1150 1840 9½hrs this refuge climb a long sustained ridge to a col. After the
Petra Piana Vizzavona
col there is a long slabby descent into a pretty valley. At
bottom there is a side path to the col and a quirky hotel.
Leave the col and hotel and take the alternative route to
the ridge. Thereafter contour the forested hillside passing
Col de 2 bergeries and climbing steeply to Capanelle. From here
8 Col di Verdi 28 km 1230 1110 10 hrs climb over short rugged ridge to more bergeries and
Vizzavona
descend to a bridge. After this bridge is a very long, but
pleasant, forested contour along the hillside to the refuge.
From the refuge ascend 2 hours through forest and
pasture to Refuge de Prati. After the refuge follow a long
Refuge convoluted ridge passing jagged crags and open meadow
9 Col di Verdi 16 km 1390 950 8½ hrs to a prominent saddle. After the saddle climb steeply up
d’Usciolu
onto the ridge and follow its sharp crest with some easy
scrambling until the refuge appears on the south side.
Climb back onto the ridge and follow it south to a large
idyllic grassy plateau. Cross the plateau and make a long
Refuge Col de gentle ascent up Monte Alcudina followed by the long
10 25 km 1620 2150 12 hrs knee-breaking descent to Refuge d’ Asinau. From this
d’Usciolu Bavella
refuge take the shorter, rugged, alpine variation over the
Aiguilles de Bavella (with the odd scramble) to the gîtes.
From a gîte in Bavella follow a forest track crossing a ford
and climbing over ridge to reach a refuge after 2 hours.
Col de From the refuge ascend slightly, cross a ridge and descend
11 Conca 19 km 710 1590 8 hrs into pine forest to the foot of the last big climb. Ascend
Bavella
this rocky path then make the long, varied descent past
swimming pools to the gîtes and restaurants of Conca.

184 km 12390 12430 89 hrs