E Guide Weekend Like A Local in Paris MessyNessyChic

Weekend Like A Local In Paris
COPYRIGHT 2017 13 THINGS LTD.
All rights reserved. No part of this e-guide may be used or reproduced in any
manner whatsoever without written permission except in the case of brief
quotations embodied in articles.
For additional information please contact: [email protected].
www.messynessychic.com
Copyright 2017 13 Things Ltd. 1
Before spending the weekend like a local, theres something you should probably
know about your guide
Ever since I was a young girl, Ive

suffered from an incurable fear of
feeling like a tourist.
You see, when I decided to move to Paris seven years ago, on nothing more than a
whim, I knew I had to make it my city and fast (this is already sounding like a
cheap movie trailer).
Okay look, I just hate to see people coming to Paris and not being able to
experience the city, even in the smallest way, as the locals do.
Drop your tourist guide books, walk straight past the hotel concierge and for
heavens sake, dont actually go up the Eiffel Tower!
This is my idea of a perfect locals weekend in Paris
FRIDAY EVENING
Book dinner at Le Bon Georges and enquire ahead about ordering their famous
giant souffl at this jovial bistrot of the 9th arrondissement.
Surrounded by visuals of bygone Paris and charming hosts, theres no need for
Michelin star restaurants in this city when you have places like Le Bon Georges
for French cuisine and hospitality at its best.
Le Bon Georges
45 Rue Saint-Georges, 75009 Paris
+33 (01) 48 78 40 30
After Dinner, Head to a Secret
Playhouse in Paris
On a leafy avenue in Montmartre, inside the former villa of the Herms family at
the top of a secret stairway, the Hotel Particulier de Montmartre has a very special
bar called Le Trs Particulier.
Spoil yourself with luxurious cocktails and schmooze with a diverse crowd of
well-travelled guests of the hotel and in-the-know Parisians.
Le Trs Particulier
23, Avenue Junot, Pavillon D, 18eme. Ring the bell at the gate
+33 (0)1 53 41 81 40
SATURDAY
You have a full day ahead. Wake up bright and early for a Breakfast with a
Secret View of the Eiffel Tower.
Head to the PariSeven boulangerie near the Eiffel Tower, a picture perfect pink
bakery in the 7th arrondissement and pick up your profiterole, croissant or
whatever tickles your fancy.
Then set off to find my own secret view of the Tour Eiffel (pictured above right) a
few minutes away on the hidden art nouveau style enclave, Square Rapp and
peacefully enjoy your breakfast, and the French iron lady away from the crowds.
PariSeven Boulangerie
20 Rue Jean Nicot, 75007 Paris
+33 (01) 43 17 35 20
Use this map to find my secret Eiffel Tower view
Spend the rest of the morning...
...at the most underrated museum in the city. Behind the terracotta blue doorway
are two 17th century mansions...
The Muse de la Chasse et de la Nature place is an absolute gem. And the best
part is its completely empty! Away from the crowds of tourists, peruse its
eclectic collection of exotic taxidermy and natural history curios.
In the arms room you can have a good rummage through all the drawers, filled
with antique treasures that belonged to fabled warrior kings, rare antique hunting
equipment and ancient tools. Not your typical stuffy and dusty old pompous
museum, the Muse de la Chasse et de la Nature has very much kept up with the
times, mixing modern art installations and cabinets of curiosities alongside pieces
that have been held in the French archives for centuries.
And they save the best for last the trophy room.
Theres a huge amount of respect for these beasts that allow you to leave your
squeamishness at the door and just be in awe.
The collection has been put together from donations by Princes and legendary
hunting parties from around the world, and for every animal on display, you can
find its history documented in beautiful card catalogues.
Muse de la Chasse et de la Nature

62 Rue des Archives, 75003 Paris
+33 (01) 53 01 92 40
Break for Lunch in the Hidden
Passages of the Belle Epoque
Built by visionary architects in the turn of the 19th century Paris to provide refuge
from the bustling streets of Paris, they were lined with elegant shops, fashionable
eateries, small theatres, reading rooms and even public baths.
Today, under the very same antique glass roofs, the small arcade shops have
retained their merchant spirit, selling rare books, old photographs and vintage bric
a brac; ideal for rainy weather.
One passage in particular, the time-travelling maze of the Passage des Panoramas,
is home to one of my favourite wine bar/restaurants, Coinstot Vino, a humble cave
manger of natural wine discovery to be can be paired with fresh garlicky razor
clams, unusual cheeses and charcuterie platters.
If youre with the kids, consider another of this passages eateries with an Italian
pizza menu. Turn mealtime into an Agatha Christie novel at the Victoria
Station-Wagon Restaurant where youre seated inside the cinematic velvet dining
carriage of what could be an Orient Express train where Poirot is about to solve
one of his mysterious murder cases.
Inspect your train carriage first on the hidden Passage des Panoramas before
boarding at the main entrance.
Coinstot Vino - Open for lunch & dinner Mon-Sat

26bis Passage des Panoramas, 2eme
+33 (01) 44 82 08 54
Victoria Station-Wagon Restaurant - Open everyday for lunch & dinner

11 Boulevard Montmartre, 2eme; Paris
+33 (01) 42 36 73 90
After lunch, cross straight over the busy intersection of the Boulevard Montmartre
to discover the animated Passage Jouffroy where youll find one of the most
improbable little hotels in Paris called the Hotel Chopin as well as a miniature
furniture shop, Pain dEpices.
Keep going and youll float across into the Passage Verdeau for more shops of a
bygone era bathed in light from the glass roof above.
Boutique Shopping along the Canal
If youre coming to Paris looking for the glitzy Parisian equivalent of the Rodeo
Drives, Fifth Avenues and Sloane Streets of the world, turn back now, this is not
the guide for you. But if youre looking for unique, chic and affordable Parisian
fashion boutiques set in a charming local neighbourhood where actual Parisians
really shop, then Canal Saint Martin is the place for you.
Wander in and out of converted old Parisian ateliers with a Williamsburg NYC
vibe, discovering hip, young French brands and concept boutiques, especially for
the guys. You can also find a few end-of-season outlets for French high street
brands such as Sandro, Maje and Claudie Pierlot.
Better known for its quaint waterside views and drinking spots than for the
shopping, its easy to miss out on some very interesting retail therapy in Canal
Saint Martin.
So heres the key to the quartier Rue de Marseille and Rue Beaurepaire as
long as you have these two neighbouring streets on your radar, youll be on the
right track.
Boutiques not to miss: Centre Commercial, French Trotters, the adorably

multicolored store, Antoine & Lili on the canal and dont miss the opportunity to
buy a croissant from the most beautiful Parisian boulangerie Du Pain et des Ides.
Find our full guide to Boutique Shopping like a Parisian here.
Rest Up at the Canals Clubhouse
You could mistake it for a forgotten, once grand African hotel, a colonialist social
club in Senegal or a Stanley Kubrick film set; not one item in this place hasnt
been recycled from faraway in time or place.
Sip a mojito perching on a well-travelled old suitcase, browse the theatrical

wonderland filled with eclectic furniture and elaborate props to take you to a
faraway place or time its hard not to walk around open-mouthed when you first
step into Le Comptoir Gnral.
With such an interesting space, theres no surprise that Le Comptoir Gnral

functions as more than just a cafe/ bar. Host to vintage sales, art exhibitions,
environmental conferences, foodie pop-ups, film nights; the venue associates itself
with young social entrepreneurs embarking on adventurous eco-social-cultural
projects (theres office space for rent at the back of the courtyard).
Le Comptoir Gnral - Open to anyone informed-enough to find it.

80 Quai de Jemmapes, 10eme; Open everyday from 11-14h;
+33 (01) 44 88 24 48
A Clandestine Dinner in South Pigalle
I once heard La Petrelle is where French Presidents take their mistresses. The
windows are veiled with curtains hung just high enough so as not to give anything
away about what or who is inside
Petrelle has been around for more than 20 years, run by a sort of mad-hatter
Frenchman, Jean-Luc Andr. Surrounded by piles of books and curious objects
you might unearth in your eccentric grandparents attic, youll have to take your
time deciphering the menu, hand-written by Jean-Luc in his mad scribbling
penmanship. But it feels like youre reading a love letter about food. And they say
he will make you discover what true organic food tastes like
Like the cluttered decor of the restaurant, the food doesnt come neatly or
pretentiously arranged on a plate its all a bit of a beautiful French mess. The
freshest produce is infused with sauces only a grandmother would pass down to
her favourite grandchild.
IMAGE
Dont expect to find your average bottle of grape juice here, the owner gets his
wines at auctions and your cheapest red comes at around 30. La Petrelle is for
special occasions certainly, such as a romantic weekend away in Paris; a treat for
the very important person in your life. It is a true cabinet of curiosities that will
win the heart of any visitor with a weakness for collecting the bizarre things of this
world.
La Petrelle - Open Tues-Sat, $$$

34 Rue Petrelle; 9eme
+33 (01) 42 82 11 02
A Nightcap at Gatsbys Parisian Den
Bringing back the house band, Le Fou is inspired by early 20th century nightlife,
sophisticated and civilized on the surface with a place to let loose hiding
underground.
The ground floor is a masterpiece of 1920s interior design, hosted by hard-working

barmen in vintage clinical jackets serving classic cocktails from an Art Deco bar.
Downstairs is the devilish den where the house band Les Fous Furieux plays
gypsy jazz until the early hours.
Le Fou
37 bis, Rue du Sentier 2eme
+33 (01) 40 26 14 94
SUNDAY
Sleep in, you deserve it. Plan for a Late Breakfast on the Old Railway Tracks.
On the abandoned train tracks of the Little Belt railroad, a surviving relic of a
bygone era, closed since 1934, some creative Parisians built a hangout in the
former Gare Ornano of the Petite Ceinture.
This clubhouse even has its own permanent DIY workshop corner in the station
where you can learn to restore and reuse old and unwanted objects; maybe a
broken chair you picked up at the flea market hence the name La Recyclerie.
La Recyclerie - Opens at 11am

83 Boulevard Ornano, Paris
+33 (01) 42 57 58 49
http://www.larecyclerie.com/
On a crisp sunny Sunday, there really is no better place to be in Paris than antique
hunting in les Puces (the flea market) of St.Ouen.
The epicenter of authentic Paris, le March aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is an ideal

little society of its own, made up of village-like alleys and small streets, persevered
by an intellectual and cultivated community of vendors who make it all happen.
Les Puces is made up of several maze-like markets, some indoor, some outdoor.
Get lost inside the charming tiny streets of March Vernaison, find old
photographs, prints and knick knacks in the March Dauphine and find that
vintage Louis Vuitton trunk at March Paul Bert.
Hungry? Find a secret bistrot hidden deep in the flea market. Open since 1967,
Chez Louisette is the highlight of any visit to March aux Puces de St-Ouen.
Hungry antique hunters and dealers crowd around little tables to eat lunch (mains
15 to 20) and hear old-time singers belt out numbers by Piaf and other classics,
accompanied by the accordion; you might even be tempted to get up and dance
with a fellow diner.
Chez Louisette
Les Puces, March Vernaison at 99 Rue des Rosiers
+33 (01) 40 12 10 14
I know Im asking a lot for a Sunday, but you simply cant finish the weekend
without an Afternoon Stroll in Hidden Montmartre...
I remember when I first saw it, Avenue Junot, the cobblestone road that winds up
to Montmartre lined with some of the most delicious architecture in Paris. Its art
deco ironwork, those tall glass windows bathed in light for artists in residence,
colorful cul de sacs peeking out from behind corners; here is the Paris they wrote
books and poems and made movies about.
Explore this little piece of Parisian paradise my map of Avenue Junot
Dinner at My Valentine Bistrot
Nestled in a quiet backstreet of the 4th arrondissement, Le Temps de Cerises is one

of the few enduring little gems of la vie quotidienne from a bygone Paris. With
its unchanged mosaic facade, this little 18th century house has earned itself the
title of a historical monument and the neighbourhoods best kept secret.
Inside, we could be stepping back 50 years in time to 1955, when the same
photographs on the wall, the newspapers hung from the same hooks in the corner
and the same old clock chimed on the hour as if any of the regulars were ever in a
rush to leave this timeless place. So yes, as far as Parisian bistrots, go, Le Temps
de Cerises is as authentic and as local as it gets.
Between the cozily curtained window nooks, rickety old caf chairs and and the
red-chequered napkins, Le Temps de Cerises is just effortlessly and organically
charming unlike so many of the tourist traps that try to clone Parisian charm like
theyre in Disneyland.
I do recommend calling ahead to make a booking for your table because youll be
competing in a small space with the local residents coming in for their evening
glass of terroir wine and side of cheese.
Le Temps de Cerises
31 rue de la Cerisaie, Paris
+33 (01) 42 72 08 63
Facebook
Its nearly over
Fight the Sunday blues with the blues
The oldest jazz club in Paris, Le Caveau des Oubliettes is remembered as a hotspot
of post-war jazz, where Parisians went went to forget the troubles of war
Blues jazz you know the kind that consists of a soulful harmonica player, a dirty
electric guitar solo and lyrics like, woman you aint no good for me is seriously
seductive and oddly uplifting music.
On Sunday nights, Le Caveau des Oubliettes, is exactly where you need to go to be

seduced by the best live blues in Paris. A 12th century underground wine cellar
that draws in the music-savvy crowd, be sure to get there before 9pm to get a seat.
Le Caveau des Oubliettes

52 Rue Galande, 75005 Paris
+33 (01) 46 34 23 09
Conclusion
I too, came for a weekend in Paris. Seven years later, Im still here.
If the same happens to you, I have seven years worth of insider stories,
recommendations and travellers tips to share with you and theyre all stored away
in Messy Nessys Secret Paris vault or in my notes on Paris Like a Local.
And guess what?
I have a book coming out this summer called Dont be a Tourist in Paris. Its
going to save countless vacations.
If you enjoyed this little portal into my favourite Paris secrets then never lose
touch with my current/future posts by following me on Facebook and Twitter, or
indulge yourself in some Parisian pictorial goodness over on my Instagram.
Fancy your own Messy Nessy customized touch to your weekend in Paris? Then
send me an email to get you started on your guided experience..

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Weekend Like A Local In Paris

COPYRIGHT 2017 13 THINGS LTD.

For additional information please contact: [email protected].

Ever since I was a young girl, Ive

This is my idea of a perfect locals weekend in Paris

Spend the rest of the morning...

Muse de la Chasse et de la Nature

Coinstot Vino - Open for lunch & dinner Mon-Sat

Victoria Station-Wagon Restaurant - Open everyday for lunch & dinner

Boutiques not to miss: Centre Commercial, French Trotters, the adorably

Find our full guide to Boutique Shopping like a Parisian here.

Sip a mojito perching on a well-travelled old suitcase, browse the theatrical

With such an interesting space, theres no surprise that Le Comptoir Gnral

Le Comptoir Gnral - Open to anyone informed-enough to find it.

La Petrelle - Open Tues-Sat, $$$

The ground floor is a masterpiece of 1920s interior design, hosted by hard-working

La Recyclerie - Opens at 11am

The epicenter of authentic Paris, le March aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is an ideal

Explore this little piece of Parisian paradise my map of Avenue Junot

Nestled in a quiet backstreet of the 4th arrondissement, Le Temps de Cerises is one

Its nearly over

On Sunday nights, Le Caveau des Oubliettes, is exactly where you need to go to be

Le Caveau des Oubliettes

And guess what?

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